Heian Costume for Women

The following slides are a brief look into

the typical costume worn by women during

the Heian Era

Karaginu-mo (Juni-hitoe)

– Costume Museum, Kyoto

Karaginu-mo is the more accurate term for a

court lady‟s formal robes in 11th Century

Heian Japan. Commonly referred to as juni-

hitoe, the characteristic of the costume lies in

the stacking of the colors (kasane no irome)

made visible at the bottom of the costume, at

the collar, and at the armholes by the

progressive shift of each layer (Sugino, 2002)

The juni-hitoe embodied many of the most

important values in Heian Japan. The

painstakingly selected colors of the many

layers symbolized elements from the natural

world, such as the natural beauty of the maple

tree or the iris. Each color scheme was only

to be worn during the appropriate season or

special occasion, such as certain festivals. To

wear the a color out of season, or even to get

the color wrong for one of your layers, was to

invite mockery from other women and brought

embarrassment on the woman who erred

(Morris, 1994).

The Karaginu-Mo (Juni-Hitoe) consisted of

the following articles of clothing:

Kosode - (Short sleeve) Traditional robe style of

Heian Japan. It is also the term for the

undergarment of both women and men‟s clothing.

Karigino - Chinese styled jacket worn over the

Uwagi and Mo for formal occasions. Traditionally

lined, and the collar folded out.

Uwagi – The top layer uchigi. Sometimes when

of higher rank it could have simple embroidery

patterns woven into the cloth and/or stamped.

Uchigi - The outside uchigi was called uwagi and

the ones worn under it were called kasane-uchigi.

The highest ranked court ladies could wear

patterned silk; the ordinary court ladies wore

unpatterned waves similar to modern habutae.

They were also called the itsutsuginu or kinu.

Hitoe - Type of underwear, sometimes referred to

as the chemise, worn beneath the uchigi and over

the kosode and hakama or nagabakama. It is the

first visible layer.

Nagabakama - (divided skirt) Formal version of

hakama worn by court women.

Mo - Train or apron-skirt worn over the juni-hitoe

for formal occasions. It was considered very formal

and was required of women of the court while on

official duty

The Layering effect is one of

the most important aspects

of the Juni-hitoe. While

almost all of the robes are

the same lengths and width,

how they are layered plays a

very important part in the

over all look.

The Mo is one of the most elegant „accessories‟

worn with the Juni-Hitoe. Pleated at the top

much like hakama are (the split-skirt pants) it is

4-6 panels of fabric sew together and often

either embroidered or painted. (Shikibu et al,

2003)

The sash could be a simple as a border-dyed

band to this more intricate lined band with a

braid woven in and out of it for added

decoration.

The motif design usually represented the wearer‟s office

of state, family significance, location or even their

favorite flora and fauna (Dalby, 2005).

This Mo has an embossed and

embroidered sash. But

otherwise very similar painted

images on the apron.

It also has a small braid

woven through it for

decoration. This technique

is something we‟ve found

very common in the clothing

of both men and women of

the Heian Court. (Sei, 1991)

Here we have a close up detail of

the motifs used on our two

examples of a Mo.

Both have very traditional themes

of the time.

The next set of pictures

give examples of some of

the color choices women

of the Heian era might

have worn.

Pine Tree colors - All season wear (because the

pine tree is evergreen and unchanging)

Maple colors - Autumn wear Chrysanthemum - Autumn wear

Apricots “Beneath the Snow” – Winter Wear

Apricot – Early Spring

Citrus – Early Summer

And our first attempt at a Heian Lady‟s Court

Dress: Karaginu-mo

Acknowledgements

Much thanks to Kat “Crimson” Griffin for her photos from

the Kyoto Costume Museum and to the Museum for the

incredible effort of presenting this time period to the

public.

To Gille, Sakada and Kaede for the inspiration, and

encouragement during this project.

Works Cited

Bryant, A. E. o. E. (2004). Sengoku Daimyo Homepage:

http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/.

Costume Museum, I. (2009). Costume Museum, Kyoto (Japanese Version):

http://www.iz2.or.jp/

FUYUya (2008). HEIAN Kasane no irome: http://www.fuyuya.com/kasane/kasane-

index.htm.

Dalby, L. C. (2001). Kimono: Fashoning Culture. Seattle and London, University of

Washington Press.

Dalby, L. C. (2005). Life and Culture: http://www.lizadalby.com/TofM%20SUBJ.html.

Harvey, S. M. (2009). Juni-hito Sytles of Heian Era Japan:

http://www.clotheslinejournal.com/heian.html.

Morris, I. (1994). The World of the Shining Prince: Court Life in Ancient Japan, Kodansha

International.

Shikibu, M., Izumi Shikibu, and Sarashina (2003). Diaries of Court Ladies of Old Japan.

Mineola, New York, Dover Publications, Inc.