Hems

HemsA properly sewn hemA properly sewn hem::

Hang straight & evenHang straight & even Parallel to the floorParallel to the floor All fullness be eased in and sewn All fullness be eased in and sewn

smoothlysmoothly

Hem Steps1. Mark the hem

length2. Turn the hem up

and press3. Finish the hem

edge4. Attach the hem

Mark the HemWork with a partnerWear garment with appropriate

shoes Measure the desired length with

a yard stick from the floorMark desired length with pins or

a marking tool

Turn Up the HemDepending on the selected

hemming method, measure from desired hem length and make an additional mark noting where to trim the excess fabric

Finish the EdgeThe raw edge of a hem must be finished to prevent raveling.

The finish is determined by fabric & function.

The raw edges of hems are finished just like the raw edges of seams

Attach the HemHems are attached by hand, machine, or fusing.

Hems by machine It is the quickest,

permanent hemming method

Most common methods are Topstitched, Turned & Stitched, Machine Blind Hem, and Rolled Hem

Topstitched Used to attach

a hem and decorate at the same time (the stitching shows, just like any topstitching).

Topstitched Hem1. Mark hem2. Trim to 1 ¼”3. Press hem to inside 1 ¼”4. Turn raw edge in ¼” & press

again.5. Top stitch close to second fold.

Hems by machineTurned and Stitched

• Looks like a topstitched hem, but the amount of fabric turned up is very small (1/4”and usually found at the bottom of a man’s shirt).

Turn & Stitch Hem1. Mark hem & trim so that it is

5/8”.2. Turn raw edge up 5/8” &

press.3. Turn raw edge in to the 5/8”

pressing line and press again.4. Topstitch along the second

folded edge.

Machine Blind Hem• Used for most

commercially hemmed garments,

• Uses the blind hem foot.• Virtually invisible

Rolled Hem Press edge 1/8” to

wrong side all around Place folded edge of

the fabric at needle and finish edge with zig zag stitch

You can skip the pressing by using a hemming foot for sewing machine

Eased Hem Used for hemming curved edges in items

like: flared skirts, pants, etc. Use a line of basting stitches to help get

the hem to lay flat

Steps Machine Blind Hem1. Press the hem2. Fold the raw edge in ¼” and

press3. Pin hem in position4. Turn the “hem” back on itself5. Position it under the blind

hem foot6. Sew using the machine blind

hem stitch

Hems by handThe stitches should be:

• evenly spaced• loose enough that

the fabric does not pucker

• almost invisible• sewn with a single

thread

Hems by handSlip stitch:Stitches are almost invisibleUsed to attach a folded edge such as a hemmed (turned & stitched) finish or bias binding.

To sew, the hand needle is slipped inside the folded edge of the hem and the picks up one or two threads of the fabric directly below.

Fused Hem It is considered a quick fix. Used to temporarily hold a hem,

i.e dressing for work and you inadvertently pull out the hem of your pants and need a quick fix.

Done with a fusible web