[1] ANON.The Indian Cookery Book:aPrac-ticalHandbookto theKitchen inIndia,AdaptedtotheThreePresidencies; containingOriginal andAp-provedRecipesinEveryDepartmentofIndianCook-ery; Recipes for Summer Beverages and Home MaeLiqueurs;MedicinalandotherRecipes;TogetherwithaVarietyofThingsWorthKnowing.ByaThirty-FiveYears’Resident.

Secondedition.8vo.[4],123,xxxii[publisher’sadver-tisementsdated1887],pp.Somepencil annotationsthroughout, otherwise a very clean copy. Originalblue, blocked front cover with elaborate frame andillustration showinganativeatwork in thekitchen,backcoverwithsimpleframeandprinter’sdevice(cov-ersslightlygrubby).

Calcutta:Thacker,SpinkandCo.,1880

Detailed late 19th century work on Indian cookery designed to establish culinary practice and dining customs amongst a colonial readership.

First published in Calcutta in 1869 and frequentlyreprinted.

Theworkoffersadviceonproducingfoodyear-roundin India, providing readers with information on theavailability of foods, both native to India and thosemore familiar to the English palate, with sugges-tions on how to use them. The recipes range fromthe quintessentially English “Bubble and Squeak”(p.49) to the more exotic. Particularly interesting isthedialoguethattheworkportraysbetweenEnglishandIndiancooking,withtechniquesandingredientsadaptedtomakethemostappealinguseofIndianin-gredientsforEnglishtastes.Theauthoraimstoallowthereadertosetupasuccessfulandwell-runkitchen,

withparticularemphasisoncleanliness,especiallyim-portantinahotclimate.Ahighlevelofengagementfromtheownersofthehouseisencouraged;theymustensurethathighstandardsaremaintained:“Theverybestrecipes...forensuringaperfectlycleankitchen,well-tinnedutensils,andfreshwater,arethefrequentvisitsofthelordandladyofthemansiontothecook.”(Introduction)Theworkalsoprovidesthenecessaryterminology and conversion tables to understandIndian measurements, and for basic communicationwith staff.Theauthordescribesanunsuccessfulvisittothemarket:“Theorderisfrequentlymisunderstoodbytheservantwhoprocuresanarticlewidelydifferentfromthatordered,orhereturnsempty-handed,withthedeclarationofthetruth,“Piahneigh,”or“Millahneigh,”whichmeans“Couldnotget,”or“Couldnotfind.” (p.5)As such, theworkprovidesa fascinatingculinaryandwiderculturalrecordoftheEnglishpres-enceinlate19thcenturyIndia.

Whileitshowslittleconcernwithpromotingauthen-ticity,andaimstoappealtopeculiarlycolonialtastesit does, however, often does explain the traditionalmethodsofpreparationbeforegoingontoprovideananglicisedversionofthedish.Forexample,inthecaseof“kurmaorquoremacurry”(p.22),theauthorstatesthat:“This,withoutexception,isoneoftherichestofHidoostaneecurries,butitisquiteunsuitedtoEuro-peantaste, ifmadeaccordingtotheoriginalrecipe.”The author attempts to educate his reader in thepracticesofthecolonialfamilyandtostrengthenthisWesternized version of Indian culture. He describeshow: “Rice is consumed by most European familiesatbreakfast,tiffinanddinner.”(p.9).Thisdissemina-tionofcolonialculturereachesasfarasEnglanditself,withseveralrecipesrecommendedasgiftsforfriends

A Selection of Cookery Books

BY APPOINTMENT TOHER MAJESTY THE QUEEN

PURVEYORS OF RARE BOOKS& MANUSCRIPTS

MAGGS BROS. LTD, LONDON

MAGGS BROS. LTD.50 BERKELEY SQUARE, LONDON W1J 5BA

Tel: 020 7493 7160 Fax: 020 7499 2007

WWW.MAGGS.COM

Registered in England no. 2849501. Registered office as above. TVA/VAT no. GB 239 3813 47Directors: BD Maggs (Chairman), EF Maggs (Managing), JF Maggs, H Bett, RJD Harding FSA, JCV Reilly, Dr TAW Boeder

“athome”, suchas thepickledvindalooandacurrypaste(p.26).

Theauthorwasa“thirty-fiveyears’resident”inIndia,suggesting a greater degree of authenticity than theanglicisedversionsof“curry”thatwerepopularatthetime.CurrywascommerciallyavailableinLondonasearly as 1784 (Zlotnick, 59) and featured widely inthemostpopularculinaryworksoftheday,includingElizaActon’s1845Modern Cookery in all its Branchesand Mrs Beeton’s Book of Household Management (1859).

Provenance:Inscription,datedDecember1889to“DrHorsfall”fromKnightCommanderandOrderoftheStarofIndiaMajorGeneralSirFrederickRichardPol-lock(1827-1889)indicatesagreatdealoffondnessforthestyleofcookerycontainedwithinaswellasfortheaddressee:“withkindestwishesforresults-”.

Zlotnick, Susan., “Domesticaing Imperialism:CurryandCookbooksinVictorianEngland”,inFrontiers: A Journal of Women Studies,vol.16,no.2/3(1996).

[2] ANON. London at Dinner; or, Where to Dine.

8vo.[1],63,24,[1]pp.Slightbrowningtoedges,lowercornerof leafA8removed(nolossoftext).Originaldecorated boards, front cover illustrating humorousvignetteofa“corporateclub”borderedwithcarniva-lesque scenes of animals eating humans, back covershowingtheArgyllRoomsGrandCasino(afewsmallspots to front cover, front and back covers slightlyrubbed,spineloose).

London: printed for the Proprietor of the ArgyllRooms,1858

A light-hearted guide to eating out, and eating well, in Victorian London.

Firstpublished in1851asLondon at Table andnowrevised.

London at Dinner provides a guide to finding goodquality food in the capital. The preface claims that,followingthe1851GreatExhibition,aneedemergedforaguideforbothvisitorsandlocalsaliketothebesteating establishments in London, and to the diningcustomsandthebestrecipesoffashionableEngland.The tone of the work is frank and wry. The amus-ingfrontcovershowsadiningclubinitiationtest,inwhich a prospective member of a dining club mustpass throughone sideof apairof foldingdoors: “Ifa candidate for this corporate club could make hisentrance through the first, he was looked upon as

unqualified;butifhestuckinthepassage,andcouldnot forcehisway through it, the foldingdoorswereimmediately thrown open for his reception, and hewassalutedasabrother.”(p.14).Theworkdescribesthebestpubliceatingestablishments,suchastheBluePosts, Cork Street: “You have the joints artisticallycarvedintheroombythewaiter,andnotjaggedabout“dog’s meat fashion” by the guests...” (p.9). Recom-mendationsforclubs,suchasBoodles,theConserva-tiveClub,theGarrick,theReformandtheBeefsteakarealsoincluded.

It also provides practical instruction for serving afashionabledinner athome,with service à laRusse,inwhichdishesareservedcoursebycourse.Forsug-gestionsonwhattoserve,readersarepointedtowardsuseful,popularcookbooksoftheday:“Cookerybooks,from the celebrated “Ude”, thebrilliant and accom-plished “Soyer” down to the humble “Meg Dodds”abound in every bookseller’s shop, in all of whichampleinstructionswillbefoundfortheguidanceandstudyofthoseanxioustoexcelintheprofoundscienceofGastronomy”(p.49).

London at Dinner was printed for the proprietor ofthe Argyll Rooms, Great Windmill Street, Haymar-ket,todaythesiteoftheTrocaderocentre.TheArgyllRooms are illustrated on the back cover showing ademure crowd listening to anorchestra.Despite thesedateillustration,theArgyllroomshadanextremelypoorreputation.The Saturday ReviewofOctober16th1853 describes the Rooms as a useful holding bayforundesirables.Havingbeenclosed inthepreviousyear,1852,“thisyearweopenthem,because,onthewhole,itisbetterthattheviciouspopulationshouldbebroughttogetherthanitshouldbeletlooseonso-ciety.”Duetoitsnotoriety,theArgyllRooms’licencewasnot renewed and theywere eventually closed in1878.

ThereviewerinThe Sporting MagazineforJuly1858noted thatLondon at Dinner “isoneof the smartestgastronomicalworksoftheday,repletewithanecdoteandfun.Nowonder,then,thattenthousandcopieshavebeenstruckoff; for, inadditiontoamusement,itcontainssomeexcellentpracticalaviceonwheretodine.Therecipesforcoolsummerbeveragesareworthfivetimesthepriceoftheook[oneshilling];andwestronglyrecommendourfrienstoossesthemselvesofacopy.”

The work also contains 24pp. of advertisementspromoting a variety of products and businesses; ofparticular note are the advertisements for “the Newand Complete Library Edition of theWorks of Mr.

CharlesDickens”(p.16),“LeaandPerrins’CelebratedWorcestershireSauce”(p.20),MappinBrothers’Elec-tro-Silvercutlery(p.24),andF.LillywhiteandWisdenCricketingOutfitters(finalleaf ).

Provenance: Rev. Richard Grosvenor Bartelot, FSA,antiquaryandvicarofFordingtonStGeorge,Dorset,withsignatureandaddress“CorfeCastle”onthefrontflyleaf.

[3] ANON. The Economist and General Ad-viser. No. I. Saturday, May 22, 1824 [- No. XXXII. Saturday, December 25, 1824].

8vo.512,64,pp.Eachofthe32issuesoftheEconomist and General Adviserwithanengravingonthefirstleafdepictingcutsofmeat,orscenesaftercontemporaryartists,andthe4 issuesofThe Chemistwitha scien-tificengravingonthefirstleaf;bothtitleswithfurthersmallengravedillustrations.GatheringKfoxed,verysmallholetoS5(notaffectingthetext),gatheringTbrowned,verysmallholeto2H8withmarkaffectingverso of 2H7 and recto of 2I, light pencil marks to2K7(notaffectingthetext).Contemporaryhalfcalfwithmarbledboards, spinedivided into seven com-partments with red morocco label (covers rubbed,slightsurfacecrackupthespine).

London:PublishedbyJohnKnightandHenryLacey,1824

32issuestotheendofthefirstyearofpublicationofa 19th century weekly periodical containing articlesonhouseholdmanagement,unscrupuloustradersandthemisfortunesofthelate-Georgianconsumer.Con-tinued in 1826 as The Housekeeper’s Magazine andFamilyEconomist.Boundwith4issuesofTheChem-ist, a periodical from the same publisher, providinginformation on chemical experiments and scientificdiscoveries.

IntheAddressofthefirstissue(May22,1824)theeditorssetouttheiraimtolaydownrulesforeconomy,notonlyconcerning“theinterestsofthepocket,butalso those of our mind, from which emanate eitherhappinessormisery.”Theconceptofeconomytreatedintheworkextendsbeyondthesimpleartofbudget-ing to “the art of being comfortable and happy.” Inorder to achieve this economy, each issueprovides aseriesofarticlesoncarefully-budgetedcookery,mon-ey-savingideas,popularwisdom,andlivelyaccountsoffrauds,orincidentsthathavebefallenunfortunateconsumers. One particular example is the article“Cheap Dining” (pp.61-62), in which “a person ofvery respectable exterior” is brought to court after a

fightataneating-house.Uponarrivingattheeating-house,thegentlemanispresentedwithanenormousportionofroastbeef,andinformedthatthecookwillnot offer half-portions. The gentleman attempts toleave, refusing to pay; the waiter blocks his passage:“pleasetopaymeforthebeef,sir;itwascutbyyourorders,andyoumusn’tgotillyou’vepaidforit.Itonlycomestonine-pence,Sir,wedgiblesandall.”Afightensuesbetweenthegentlemanandthewaiter:““downthe stairs they trundled closely embraced, slap-bangontoatablejust-coveredwithsmoakinghotdishesofroastandboiled(sic)”.

Similarlyfarcicalaccountsaregivenintheregularcol-umnAnnals of Gulling, “a seriesofarticlesupon thevariousfraudspractisedbycheatingtradesmen”(p.11).

[4] ANON. Hints for the Table: or, the Econo-my of Good Living.

FirstEdition.12moin6s.xii,167,pp.Title-pagewithimageofRiepenhausen’sengravingofHogarth’sinvi-tationtoMrKing“toetabetapy”.SmallfoxmarktofootofgatheringG(notaffectingthetext),HtoH5veryslightlyfoxedatfootofpage(slightlyaffectinga

smallsectionoftext),gatheringPveryslightlyfoxed.Original brown cloth, covers with embossed tripleframe and decoration, spine with gilt lettering andelaborate double-ruled frame, binder’s ticket of W.Pswrke,Wolverhamptontolowercornerofendpaper,front cover faded and scuffed,back cover faded andspotted.

London,Simpkin,Marshall,andCo.,1838

A practical and humorous culinary commonplace book, filled with advice on cooking, serving and dining.

This delightful little dining manual consists of a se-lectionof“verynearly1000hints”toguidethe19thcenturydiner.Thehints,selectedfromliterature,pe-riodicals and popular culinary works, are frequentlyhumorousaswellasuseful.

The material ranges from the advice of French chefLouisEustacheUde(1769-1846)toversesonfoodbyByronandMilton.Ude’sdistinctionbetweenFrenchand English soldiers, and French and English cook-ery,isparticularlyamusing:“TheEnglishsoldierlayshispiece,orration,ofbeef,atonceonthecoals,bywhichmeanstheoneandthebetterhalf is lost,andtheotherburnttoacinder;whereassixFrenchtroop-ersfling theirmesses into the samepot, and extractadelicious soup, ten timesmorenutritious than thesimplerôtievercouldbe.”(p.12)Theworkalsopro-videsanengaginginsight intodiningcustomduringthisperiod,withashortsectiononsmokingandsnuff(pp.116-118), and on the physical practicalities ofthe dining room in the section “The DiningTable”(pp.22-27).Thissectionnotes:“CircularDiningandSupperTables are gradually coming into fashion, soas,inimagination,torevivethechivalricgloryoftheRoundTable.”

Hints for the Table demonstrates the increasingly re-finedcustomsoftheEnglishtable.WiththeriseinthepopularityoftheLondonclub,aswellasthegrowthofrestaurantculture,dinersofthisperiodwerefacedwithanever-expandingselectionofplacestodine.TheEnglish diner could afford both to be discerning inwherehechosetoeat,andtodistinguishhisowntablebyofferinggoodfoodinstyle.

[5] ACCUM (Friedrich Christian [Frederick]).Culinary Chemistry, exhibiting the scientific principles of Cookery,withconciseinstructionsforpreparinggoodandwholesomepickles,vinegar,con-serves,fruitjelliers,marmalades,andvariousotherali-mentarysubstancesemployedinDomesticEconomy,

with observations of the chemical constitution andnutritive qualities of different kinds of food. WithCopperPlates.

FirstEdition.8vo.[4],xxii,[2],356pp.hand-colouredaquatint frontispiece depicting a rotisserie oven, ahorizontal ironhearth,asteampreservingpanandacompressionteapot;hand-colouredaquatintvignetteofakitchen-rangeonthetitle.Smallpiecetornfromthelowerblankmarginofp.13;someverylightspot-tingthroughout.Originalpinkpublisher’sboardswithoriginalpaperlabeltospine(jointsandedgesrubbed,spinefaded,butinverygoodcondition).

London,publishedbyR.Ackermann,1821

A fine copy of the first edition of the final work by the Westphalian chemist Friedrich Christian Ac-cum, expert on food adulteration and poison.

Part socialhistoryofcooking,partpracticalcookerymanual,Accum’sCulinary Chemistry givesanintrigu-ing insight intoRegency thoughtonglobal culinarypracticesandscientificunderstanding.Accumconsid-ers all aspects of food production and preparation,activitiesvitaltotheprocessofcivilization,separatingman from beast (p.21). Accompanying his practicalinstructionsonfoodpreparationandadvice,Culinary Chemistry provides salient anecdotes and descrip-tive accounts of major foodstuffs, including tea andcoffee. One particularly interesting note is offeredunder tea making, presumably referring to Japanesematcha - “Thepeopleof Japan reduce their tea to afinepowder,whichtheydilutewithwarmwateruntilithasacquiredtheconsistenceofathinsoup.”(301)Often,Accumincludespracticalmethodsandrecipes,suchasinstructionsforpineapplemarmalade(p.267),“tomatacatsup”(p.243)andpottedham(p.220)

The first edition of Culinary Chemistry includes an

introduction by the publiher Rudolph Ackerman, afriendofAccum’s,making anoblique reference to a“disturbingevent,inwhichitsveryingenious,usefulandelaborateauthorhappenedtobeinvolved.”Acker-man goes on to describe how this event left Accumdepressed, and it was only with Ackerman’s diligentpersuasion that hefinished Culinary Chemistry.ThiseventwasthediscoveryofthirtyleavesfrombooksinthelibraryoftheRoyalInstitutionatAccum’shome.SuspicionswereraisedaftertheassistantlibrarianJohnStartobservedAccumtearingleavesfromabook,andAccumwaseventuallychargedwiththemutilationoflibrary books. The incident caused Accum such dis-tressthathereturnedtoGermany,whereheliveduntilhisdeath.

Provenance:HenryJames,withcontemporaryinksig-natureonthetitle“HnyJames”,threecross-referencesonthetitleandfouradditionsintheindex.

[6] AUDOT (Louis-Eustache). La Cuisinière de la Campagne et de la Ville, ou nouvelle cuisine économique, contenantIndicationdesJoursmaigres.Tablesdesmetsselonl’ordreduservice.[...]CuisinesFrancaise,Anglaise,Allemande,Flamande,Polonaise,Russe,Espagnole,Provencale,Languedocienne,Itali-enneetGothique,aunombrede1,500recettes,d’uneexécutionsimpleetfacile.[...]MoyenFaciledeFairelesGlaces,desCaves,desVinsetdessoinsqu’ilsexi-gent.[...]Quarante-neuviemeéditionmiseaucourantduprogrèsannuel.300figures.

49thedition.12mo.666,13,[4],pp.Hand-colouredfrontispiece depicting two salads, “300” illustrationsin the text. Slightly foxed, first gathering loose andbrowned,blankcornerofp.71 tornaway, small teartosideofp.567(notaffectingthetext),minorspot-ting in places. Original yellow printed boards, frontcoverwithanelaborateframedepictingdishesbeingprepared and served and a contemporary sticker for“P.RolandiForeignBookseller...London”;backcoverwithsimpleframeandshortdescriptionofthework(coversrubbedandbackcoverslightlymarked,spinerubbedandchipped).

Paris:Audot,1870

A comprehensive manual of French cookery and dining custom. First published in 1818 and re-printed many times.

TheculinarystyleofLa Cuisiniere de la Campagne et de la VilleisrootedinFrenchtradition:theworkpre-dominantlycontainsdishessuchassautéedartichokes(p.322),mussels(p.288),andpigeonwithpeas(p.243)

Audotinstructsthereaderinchoosingcookingutensilsandapparatus, includinggrills,ovens, chestnutpansand egg poachers, frequently illustrated with attrac-tive,detailedengravings.Informationisalsoprovidedonstoringandservingwine.Theworkcoversthethe-atricalaspectsofservingfood,instructingthereaderinpropercarving,andadvising:“withoutagoodknifeitisimpossibletopresentanythingthatlooksgoodandsatisfiestheeyesattable.”(p.73)Presentationmethodsarediscussed,too,withsuggestionsfortablesettingsandadviceonchoosingaharmoniousandvisuallyap-pealingmenu(p.84).

Theworkalsodisplays the influenceof a society in-creasingly interested in the food cultures of othercountries, with sections on Polish, Italian, German,Belgian,“Gothic”,or“oldFrench”,andEnglishcook-ery. Audot provides the French cook with what heseesasthequintessentialrecipesfromthesecountries;inthecaseofEngland,thisconstitutesadescriptionof roast beef, and detailed instruction on producing“Sandwichs”(p.516).

[7] BRADLEY (Richard).The Country House-wife and Lady’s Director in the Management of a House, and the Delights and Profits of a Farm,con-taining Instructions for managing the Brew-House,

andMalt-LiquorsintheCellar;themakingofWinesofallSorts[...]withparticularremarksrelatingtotheDryingorKilningofSaffron. [-Part II. IncludingagreatVarietyofthemostcuriousReceiptsforDress-ingalltheSortsofFlesh,Fish,Fowl,FruitandHerbs,whicharetheProductionsofaFarm,orfromanyFor-eignParts.

“The Sixth Edition” [with the First edition of PartII. 8vo., xi, [1], 187, [1]; vii, [i], 188 pp; engravedfrontispiecebySturtofabucolicscene;afewwoodcutillustrations of trussed animals prepred for cookinginPartII.Somelightoccasionalspottingtothefirstfewleaves,lightspottingtotheuppercornerofD3-E8 occasionally touching the text, small tear to thelower blankmarginofF1 (not affecting the text), afew leaves shorter along the lower edge.Contempo-rarycalf,ruledingilt,moroccospinelabel(frontcoverchippedandrubbed,upperandlowerportionofrearjoint cracking, some insect damage to foot of spineandsurfaceofthefrontcover).

London:forD.Browne,1736

Maclean, STC of Household and Cookery Books p.13. A reissue of the 5th edition of 1728 which wasalso re-issued in1732as the “SixthEdition”.ESTCrecordscopiesattheBritishLibrary&BrothertonLi-braryonlyinUK;andtheGardenCenterofGreaterCleveland,LibraryofCongressandtheUniversityofCaliforniaonlyinUSA.ESTCrecordsanotherissuewithT.Woodman’snameaddedtotheimprint(Can-terbury Cathedral & Boston Public only). Part II islistedseparatelybyESTC(6copiesinUSA).

A household manual aiming to “improve the ig-norant, and remind the Learned how and when to make the best of every thing”.

The Country Housewife and Lady’s Director aims toguidetheeighteenth-centuryhousewifeinsuccessfullyproducing meals throughout the year. In his intro-duction, Bradley mentions that he has encountereda number of culinary disasters on his travels, wheremealswere“murder’dinthedressing”.Heclaims:“IcouldmentionmanyinfluencesasbadasthecommonstoryofBaconandEggsstrewedwithBrownSugar”(x). Bradley seeks to gently correct such faults, andto provide suitable suggestions for cooking seasonalfoods.Bradleyalsoconsiders inhis introduction thegendered division of labour, suggesting why womenshouldtakecareofhouseholdwork.AttributingthisdivisiontoXenophon,Bradleyclaimsthatsuchmat-ters have altered little since the classical period andrepresentthenaturalorderofthings.

Bradleyaccompanieshisrecipeswithalivelyselectionof anecdotes, including a particularly engaging ac-countofagentlemancuredofhisaversiontocheese.(p.86). He also includes two recipes for imitationmango pickles, made from cucumbers (p.117) andgreenMelons(p.162).Themango’sexoticismdefinedthefruitasaneighteenthcenturystatussymbol.Therecipesincludedintheworkofferanengaginginsightinto attempts to emulate the fruit’s flavour and tex-ture.Alsoofferedaredetailed instructionsondryingandpreservingacropofsaffronintoa“cake”foryear-rounduse(p.161)

Thesecondpart,The Country Lady’s Director, featuresaneclecticselectionofrecipes,includingtwoformula-tionsforsnuff(pp.34-35),“aTurtleorTortoise-pye”,anda“gammonofaBadgerroasted”.Bradleystatesthatthebadgeris“oneofthecleanestCreatures,initsFood,ofanyintheWorld...”andhasaflavour“likefinestpork,exceptsweeter.” Forhisbadger,Bradleyrecommends a garnish of bacon cutlets and lemonslices. Another unusual suggestion is viper soup, forwhichweareinstructedto“takevipersalive,andskinthem, and cut off their heads.” (p.165)Bradley alsogivesambitious instructions for“anHogbarbecued”- this “shouldbedone in aYard,orGarden,with aCoveringlikeaTentoverit.”(p.165).

[8] BRIGGS (Richard). The English Art of Cookery, According to the Present Practice; beinga Complete Guide to all Housekeepers, on a PlanentirelyNew;consistingofthirty-eightchapters.[...]Withbillsoffareforeverymonthoftheyear,neatlyandcorrectlyengravedonTwelveCopper-Plates.

FirstEdition.8vo.[4],xx,656,pp.With12engraved

platesillustratingtablesettingsofbillsoffareforeachmonth of the year. Intermittent foxing throughout,marksatfootofleavesC2-C8(notaffectingthetext),foot of D2 torn (not affecting the text), very smallteartobottomcornerandsmallinkspottoheadofE(obscuringoneletteroftherunningheadline),smallink stain to the lower blank margin of the verso ofL6(notaffectingthetext),smallstaintofootofM3(notaffectingthetext),verysmallpiecetornfromthelowerblankmarginofleafLl1(notaffectingthetext).Contemporary tree calf (functionally rebacked, newendleaves,cornersrepaired).

London:forG.G.J.andJ.Robinson,1788

Maclean,STC of Household and Cookery Booksp.15.

ESTC records copies at the British Library, Bodley,National Library of Wales & Brotherton Library inUK; Cornell, Michigan State, Radcliffe College, Li-braryofCongressandDelawareinNorthAmerica.

First edition of a complete practical guide to 18th century English cookery by an employee of two well-known London taverns and a coffee house and which was much reprinted in America.

Briggs’s The English Art of Cookery offers its readersaneminentlypracticalapproachtofoodproduction.He draws on his practical experience at the Globe

Tavern, Fleet Street, the White Hart, Holborn andtheTempleCoffeeHousetoprovideclearinstructionon preparing a wide range of dishes. In his Preface,Briggsclaimsthatto“wasteLanguageandhighTermsonsuchSubjectsappears tometorender theArtofCookery embarrassing”. The work covers all aspectsofcookery,selectingsomematerialfromJohnFarley’sThe London Art of Cookery(1783),aswellasofferingoriginal recipes for fish (“a curious article in the artofCookery”,p.63)andvegetables.Briggsalsoclaimstoaddressthelackofexistinginstructionsontrussingpoultry: “I have endeavoured to give particular andusefulDirections,becausenoBookof thisKindhascontainedsuch, thatSubjecthavingbeenuniversallyoverlookedbythem”.

TheselectionofdishesprovidedbyThe English Art of Cookeryprovidesanengaginginsightintothedevelop-ment of British cuisine during this period. Interest-ingly, theatrical dishes involving moulding, shapingand elaborate decoration are included, despite thefactthatsuchdisheswouldhavebeenconsideredout-moded by French cooks, former masters of this art,by the time thisworkwasproduced. Aparticularlyinterestingexampleofthistheatricalityisprovidedbytheinstructionsformaking“aneggasbigastwenty”(p.352).Inordertocreategianteggwhitesandyolksforslicingintosalads,thereaderisinstructedtosepa-ratetwentyeggs,sievethemandplacetheyolksandwhitesintotwocleanedbladders,beforeboilinguntiltheyarehard,thenallowingthemtocool.Anexoticmethodfordressingaturtleisalsooffered,withrathergoryinstructionsforslaughter:“Tieitbyitshindfinswithacordsufficienttoholdit,thencutofftheheadandallowittobleedallnight...”(“TodressaTurtletheWest-Indiaway”,p.64).

Briggsensuresthatthepracticaldetailsofkitchenworkareaddressed,withespecialemphasisoncleanliness.Atthebeginningofeachsectiononmeatcookery,Briggsremindshisreadersthatanytraceofdirtorgreaseonthepotsandpanswillmarthemeat’sflavour.Inhis“ProperRulestobeObservedinBoiling”,Briggsstatesthat“neatnessandcleanlinessisrequisiteinakitchen,aswellinacook’spersonastheutensils.”(p.137)

[9] BRILLAT-SAVARIN (JeanAnthelme).Phys-iologie du Gout, ou méditations de gastronomie transcendante; ouvrage théorque, historique et al’ordredujour.DediéauxGastronomesparisiens.ParunProfesseur,memberedeplusiuressociétéssavantes.DeuxièmeEdition.

Secondedition.2vols.8vo.[1],412,[1];[1],440,[2]pp.Afewsmallspots,butagood,freshcopy.Contem-poraryhalfcalfwithmarbledboards,giltspines

Paris: A. Sautelet et Cie. [Imprimerie de David],1828

A seminal work that establishes a method for dis-cussing food and eating that also provides an in-sight into scientific thought and social custom of early 19th century France and navigates philoso-phy, history, literature and chemistry.

Physiologie du Goût revolutionised the way that wethinkaboutfood.Brillat-Savarinfocusesnotonlyonthepracticalscienceofcookery,butalsoonthescienceinplayasweappreciatefood,attemptingaccuratede-scriptionsofhowweunderstandflavour,tasteandtheexperienceofeating.Thescientificcontentoftheworkisdeliveredalongsidepersonalanecdotes,culturalob-servationsandsocialhistory,asBrillat-Savarinconsid-ersdishessuchaspot-au-feu,fondueandgarum.Theinfluenceoftheworkonthemodernunderstandingofeating cannotbeunderestimated: “No longerwouldpeoplebecontenttoeatfornourishmentalone-theywould now also expect satisfaction from a meal. Inother words, taste was tantamount to appreciation”(Roudot, p.42). The perspicacity and astuteness ofBrillat-Savarin’sobservationshaveallowedtheworka

lastingrelevanceforprofessionalandamateurcooks,indeed,foranyoneinterestedinunderstandingfood.

Brillat-Savarindescribeshisworkonfoodinhispref-ace as “an amusing occupation that I had reservedformyold age.” Itwasfirstpublished inDecember1825,twomonthsbeforehisdeath.Trainedasalaw-yer,Brillat-SavarinescapedFranceduringtheFrenchrevolution,spendingthreeyears inAmericateachinglanguagesandplayingtheviolin ina theatreorches-tra.InthesecondvolumeBrillat-SavarinrecallseatingturtlesoupandwelshrarebitatMrLittle’sNewYork“café-taverne”(p.263).

Provenance: John Bagwell (1811-83), of Marlfield,Clonmel, Co. Tipperary, Ireland, M.P. for Clonmel1857-74,withmid-19th-centuryarmorialbookplates.Thehouse survives divided intoflats but the librarywasdestroyedinanarsonattackin1923.

Roudot,Claude,“FoodScienceandConsumerTaste,”Gastronomica,Vol.4,no.1(Winter2004),pp.41-46.

[10] BROOKS (Catharine). The Experienced English Housekeeper for the Use and Ease of La-dies, Housekeepers and Cooks, &c. Written purely from practice;

beinganentireNewCollectionof themostGenteelyetleastExpensiveReveiptsineverybranchofCook-ery[...]TogetherwiththeArtofMarketing[...]withGeneralDirectionsfortheCoursesorRemoves.TheWholeMadeEasy to theMeanest Capacity. [...]TowhichisaddedThePhysicalDirectory.Beingneartwohundredsafeandcertainreceiptsforthecureofmostdisordersincidenttothehumanbody.WithavarietyofMadeDishes.

8voin4s.92,83-85(correctedinMSto93-95)pp.Title and last blank page dusty and with a stain onthetitle,somewhatbrownedthroughout,especiallyatthefootoftheleaves;titlepagebrownedandstainedwithaverysmallhole(notaffectingthetext), leavesA2andA3spotted,smallmarktomarginofrectoD2,inkspottoversoH4,gatheringKbrowned,pp.93-95mispaginatedas“83-85”;finalleafstained.Unboumd,uncut,stitchedasissued.

[?Manchester:]Printed for J.Sadler, J.Eves,andM.Clements[c.1800-1806]

“With care peruse this useful Book / Twill make you soon a perfect Cook”. A short work on 18th century cookery, with medical advice attributed to the distinguished physician and book collector Dr. Richard Mead.

Asingleleafflyerforthe3rdeditionofFredericNutt’sThe Complete Confectioner (1806) is loosely insertedandmaybeaguidetothedateofthisedition.

Apparently first published in 1762 as The Complete English Cook; or Prudent Housewife, ESTC recordsnoeditionbeforethe2ndof?1767andlistsonlytwoeditions with the present title (which trades on thepopularityofElizabethRaffald’sworkwiththesametitle):a“TenthEdition”withimprint“London:forW.Clements,J.Sadler,andJ.Eves,1792”(120pp;Co-lumbia,FolgerandTrinityCollegeHartfordonly;nocopyinUK)andanotherwithimprint“Manchester:forT.ThomasandJ.Sadler[c.1800]”(96pp;Well-comeLibraryonly).

The Experienced English Housekeeper aims to providecomprehensive instruction to the housewife, withreliable recipes “such as will not only save a deal ofexperience,butmuchtimealso”,renderingthereader“acompleteenglish(sic)cookandprudenthousewife”(Dedicatory epistle). The work includes marketinginstructionsforchoosingthebestfreshmeatandfish,aswellasalistofpoultry,meat,fish,fruits,androots.Brooksclaimsthatherrecipeshavemetwithsuccesswhilsttheworkwasbeingcompiled:“Ihavehadtheopinionofseveralprofestcooksandthereceiptshavemetwiththeapprobationofthemall.”Particularlyin-terestingaretheinstructionsoncandying-recipesforcherries, barberries, grapes, lemon and orange-peelsandapricotsareoffered(p.58-59)Anotherinterestinginclusionistherecipefora“youngrookpye”(p.39).Notoriously an acquired taste, with the potential tobecomedry,Brooksrecommends“agreatdealofbut-ter”tolinetherookpiecrust,followedbyforcemeatballs.Ifthepieappearsdrywhencooked,sheadvisesthe addition of parboiled rook liquor through thecrust.

Theworkalsocontainsaselectionofmedicaladvicefortreatingcommonconcernsoftheday,withcuresthatare“safeandcheap”.(dedicatoryepistle)Thesere-ceiptsareattributedtoa“DrMead”,i.e.theeminentphysicianRichardMead,M.D.(1673-1754).

Provenance:Manuscriptrecipeforelderwineonthelastblankpage.

[11] CHACON (Pedro). De Triclinio sive de modo convivandi apud priscos Romanos, & de conviviorum apparatu. Accedit Fulvi Ursini Ap-pendix, & Hier. Mercurialis. De accubitus in cenaantiquorumoriginedissertatioinhisScriptoresveteresquamplurimiexplicantur,&emendantur,necnonres

ipsaeadjectisaenisfigurisillustrantur.

12mo.[12],445,[22],pp;additionalengravedtitle,5foldingengravedplates;engravedillustrationsinthetext (mostly full-page).Contemporaryvellum (spineslightlysoiled;coversrathersplayed).

Amsterdam:ApudAndreamFrisium,1664

Thisbeautifully illustratedbookoffers adetailed ac-countofRomandining custom,drawingon awiderange of Latin and Greek works, ranging from phi-losophy and legal writing to drama and poetry. TheauthorsoftheseworksincludePliny,Cicero,Catullus,Martial, Horace and Plautus. Chacon details enter-tainmentduringdinner,whichmighttypicallyincludemusic,theactingoftragedies,comediesormimes,orperformancesfromjugglersorharpists(p.74).Healsodescribes the typical formatof thedinner table,giv-inganaccountofthemensa citreamadefromcypresswood,withadescriptionfromMartial.Furthercon-siderationofthelayoutofthediningroomisofferedbyhisdescriptionofthevesselsthatmightbeusedtoserve diners, typically made of bronze or silver, per-hapsfromCorinthorDelos,twoimportantsitesforthegodApollo(p.37).AttheendhegivesanaccountoftheLastSupper,accompaniedbyafoldingengravedillustrationwhichenvisagesJesusandthedisciplesasRomandiners, lyingratherthansittingattable,andarranged in the typicalhorseshoeshape;asmalldevilhidesundertheseatinginthelowerlefthandcorner.Biblicalcontentalsoappearsinthelengthyappendixby Fulvio Orsini which gives an account of MaryMagdalene’s encounter with Jesus and describes heranointinghisfeet.Thistooisaccompaniedbyafold-ingillustration.

[12] COLE(Mary).The Lady’s Complete Guide; or,CookeryinallitsBranches.ContainingthemostApproved Receipts, confirmed by Observation andPractice,ineveryReputableEnglishBookofCookerynowExtant.[...]alsoseveraltranslatedfromthepro-ductionsofCooksof eminencewhohavePublishedin France, particularly the Duke de Nivernois’s, M.Commo’s Histoire de Cuisine, M. Disang’s Maitred’Hotel, M. Valois and M. Delatour, with their re-spectivenamestoeachReceipt[...]alsotheCompleteBrewer[...]likewisetheFamilyPhysician;[...].

Thirdedition“verymuchimproved”.8vo.lvi,460p.Occasionalspots/smallstains,M8-N1browned(af-fecting a few letters of text). Contemporary sheep,ruledingilt,spinedividedintosixcompartmentswithred morocco label (joints split, worn, large areas on

coversstrippedbyinsectdamage,spinerubbed,frontcoverslightlyloose).

London:forG.Kearsley,1791

Maclean,STC of Household and Cookery Books,p.29.

Firstpublishedin1788andreprintedin1789.ESTCrecordscopiesofthiseditionintheUSAatColumbia,Kansas,Michigan,MinnesotaandNewYorkAcdemyofMedicine.MacleanaddsacopyatNYPL.

A late 18th century household commonplace book offering culinary and medical advice from the fore-most cooks and doctors of this period.

The Lady’s Complete Guideoffersitsreader“alibraryofcookery”fromwhichtheycancookeconomicallyfortheirhousehold,includingbillsoffareandmarketingtables.Likenearlyallhouseholdmanualsoftheday,theworkmakesuseofrecipesfromotherauthors.Howev-er,whatisunusualaboutthisworkisthatColereadilyadmitshermethodsofcompilation.InthePreface,shedescribestheworkasa“commonplacebook”selectedfromthebestauthors.TheseauthorsincludeHannahGlasse,CharlotteMason,GeorgeDalrymple,WilliamVerral,ElizabethRaffald,andJohnFarley,aswellasaselectionofFrenchcookerywriters.Eachnon-originalrecipe isattributed to itsauthor:“Ihavequotedmyauthor,where the receipt isnotoriginal; so that thecook,likethebarrister,mayknowuponwhatauthor-ityheacts.”(Preface)Colegoessofarastoclaimthat:“ifallwritersuponCookeryhadacknowledgedfromwhencetheytooktheir receipts,as Ido, theywouldhave acted with more candour by the public. TheirvanitytopassforAuthors,insteadofCompilers,hasnotaddedtotheirreputation.”

Cole, described as Cook to the Earl of Drogheda,claimsthat“allextravagant,andalmostimpracticablereceipts, I have purposely rejected...” Her choice ofauthorsrepresentstheforemostcookerywritersoftheperiod,andoffersusacross-sectionoftheirdifferentculinary standpoints. Amongst the most interestingareWilliamVerrallandElizabethRaffald.

Alsoincludedintheworkisaselectionofmedicalad-vice,compiledunderthesamemethod.ColedescribeshowshehasstudiedtheworkofdoctorsincludingRi-chardMead,ThomasSydenham,JohnFothergill,andWilliamBuchan.Colenotes the empowering effectsofmedical study, enablingher “sometimes to relievethosewhosecircumstanceswouldnotpermitthemtocallintheaidofaphysician.”(vi)TheworkalsooffersdirectionsfromtheHumaneSociety“fortherecoveryoftheapparentlydead”:

Provenance:Signatureonthepastedown“AnnaHunt-leySeptr26th,1811”.

[13] DAVIES(John).The Innkeeper and Butler’s Guide; or A Directory in the Making and Manag-ing of British Wines; together with Directions fortheManaging,Colouring,andFlavouring,ofForeignWines and Spirits, and for Making British Com-pounds,Peppermint,Aniseed,Shrub&c.&c.

FirstEdition.8vo.120pp.Lightlybrownedandspot-ted throughout.. Original boards (joints split, spinedefective,coversstainedandworn).

Liverpool:byJ.Nuttall,1805

First edition of a widely reprinted guide to produc-ing alcoholic beverages, with instructions on rescu-ing spoiled wines and spirits.

COPACrecordstheBritishLibrarycopyonly.A17theditionwasprintedin1826.

Thisinterestingworkprovidescomprehensiveinstruc-tionsonbrewingandonstoringwinesuccessfully.Inhispreface,JohnDavieswarnsthat:“Wholepipesofwinehaveturnedsourforwantofapropermethodinmanagingthem,andgreatlosseshavebeensufferedinspiritslikewiseonthesameaccount.”Riskofspoilagewashigh,andtheguidethereforecontainsanumberof methods for remedying the most common faultsfound in alcoholicdrinks, e.g. “To take away the illScentofWines”(p.37)Thisapproachisverydifferentfrom the modern concept of wine connoisseurship.Davies claims thathiswork iswritten fromhisper-sonalexperience,lookingafter“someofthefirstWineandSpiritvaultsintheKingdom.”Healsodescribeshisexperienceabroad:“IhavespentsomeyearsintheSouthofFrance,whereIhadtheadvantageoflearningsomeofthemostapprovedmethodsinuseinsomeofthelargestVineyardsandStores.”

Daviesprovides formulations forawide rangeofal-cohols, from fruitwines to cider, brandies andmaltliquors.Alsoincludedareinstructionsforvinegarsandan “English Geneva” or gin, flavoured with almondoil,turpentine,juniper,limewater,andsugaraddedto“threegillsofspiritofwine”.(p.94)Theworkprovidesanumberofinterestingideasforflavouringspirits,us-ingdriedSeville orangepeel and cardamom (p.105:“SpirituousBitters”)orthisrecipefor“AVeryGoodBitter”,combining“gentianroot,halfanounceofVir-giniansnake-root,halfadramofcochineal,andonequart ofbrandy.”The selectionof cordials offered isveryvariedandincludesrecipesforcinnamon,ratafia,

cloveandcoriandercordialsamongstothers.Surpris-ingly,thereareinstructionsfor“Englishchampagne”,thoughthisinvolveswater,a“gallonofcurrants”,“halfapintofnewbarm”andasmalllumpofsugartosetoffthefermentationprocess,whichsuggeststhatthefinishedproductmaynotbetherefineddrinkthatthemodernpalateexpects.(p.6).

[14] DURANTE (Castore). CHAMBERLAYNE(John), translator. A Treasure of Health. By CastorDurantedaGualdo,PhysicianandCitizenofRome.WhereinisshewnhowtoPreserveHealthandProlongLife.AlsotheNatureofallSortsofMeatsandDrinks,withtheWaytoPreventallHurtthatAttendstheUseof them. Also the Nature of all sorts of Meats andDrinks,withthewaytopreventallhurtthatattendstheuseofthem.

FirstEditioninEnglish.12mo.,[8],232pp.Withtheinitialblankleaf.Lightlybrownedthroughout,smallmarktoE9,smallmarktoF2(notaffectingthetext),smallteartofootofG6(notaffectingthetext),smallteartofootofG11(notaffectingthetext),smalltearto side of K9 (not affecting the text), large portionof rearbinder’sblankcutaway leavinga small strip.Contemporary mottled calf, spine divided into fivegilt-embellished compartments (joints split, most oftherearflyleafhasbeencut-awaytopremoveanoldinscription).

London:forWilliamCrook,1686

Wing D2682B. ESTC records copies at CambridgeUniversity Library, St. John’s College Cambridge,Guildhall, Lincoln’s Inn, Magdalen College OxfordUniversityinUK;W.A.Clark,Duke,Folger,Hunt-ington, Kansas, US Academy of Medicine in USA.Reissuedin1689asA Family-Herbal, or, the Treasury of Health.

The first English translation of a manual providing Classical wisdom on lifestyle and diet compiled by the Italian physician, botanist and poet Castor Durante.

A Treasure of Health offersacomprehensiveguidetotheidealconditionsforhealth,fromrecommendationsondailyactivity,restandbathing,totheadvantagesanddisadvantagesofeatinggarlic(“itcausesanoysomandstinkingBreath”) (p.100).Thefirstpartof theworkincludesadviceinLatinfromauthorsOvidandHo-race, and wisdom from the Medieval medical poemRegimen sanitatis Aalernitatum,alsoknownastheflos medicinae,fromwherethetitleofourworkderives.

A Treasure of Healthcoversadiverseselectionofadviceonhealthandnutrition,includingthoughtsonexfo-liation to purge excessive humours (“On Rubbing”,p.37),mealtimes: “Whichought tobebiggest,Din-nerorSupper?”(p.55)andwhatshouldbedoneaftermeals - our author suggests eating “some astringentthing” to seal the stomachandprevent excessive va-poursreachingthehead,andashortwalk.Thesecondpartoftheworkcontainsadynamicconsiderationoftypical ingredientsof thisperiod includingpeacocks-“theyspoylGardens”(p.189)-tortoises:they“makemendullandsleepy”-andsparrows,which“areofadifficultdigestion,inflameandbegetnaughtynourish-ment,thatisCholerickandMelancholick,andexcitesLust.”(p.188)

A Treasure of HealthwaspublishedinItalyin1586asIl Tesoro della SanitaandwasDurante’ssecondworkafterHerbario Novo(1585).

Provenance:Contemporarysignaturesonthetitle“THarcourt”andontheflyleaf“MrsCombsBook”;early19th-centuryarmorialbookplateofJohnGordon.

[15] [GLASSE(Hannah)]. The Art of Cookery made Plain and Easy; which far exceeds any thing of the kind yet published. Containing. I.How toRoastandBoiltoPerfectioneveryThingnecessarytobesentuptoTable.[...]XXIII.AReceipttokeepclearfromBuggs.Towich is added,bywayof appendix,onehundredandfiftynewandUsefulreceipts.AndaCopiousIndex.ByaLady.ANewEdition.

8vo. [2], vi, [24], 384, [24], pp., lacks the folding letterpress table “the Order of a Modern Bill of Fare for Each Month”. Book-block split at p. 194; oc-casionalspottinginthefirsthalftendingtowardslightbrowning / fixing in the second half; small sectionremovedbelowtheheadingofthelastrecipeonfromfootofleafBb7(nolossoftext),markatheadofleavesC3-C5 affecting one letter of the running headline.Contemporary calf with marbled endpapers (jointssplit, lower cover partly detached at thehead, edgesandcornersworn.coversrubbed,frontflyleafloose).

London: forW.Strahan, J. andF.Rivington, [etc.],1770

Maclean, STC of Household and Cookery Books, pp.59-61.ESTCrecords fourcopies in theUK,one inFrance, and Columbia, Iowa, Library of Congress,Memphis, NYPL, US National Library of MedicineandVirginiainUSA.MacleanaddscopiesatKansasStateUniversityandUniversityofMichigan.

An important work on food preparation by “prob-ably the best-known English cookery writer of the 18th century” whose approach to marketing revo-lutionised the sale of cookbooks. (Oxford Compan-ion to Food)

InherprefacetoThe Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy,HannahGlasse statesher aim to “improve theservants,andsave the ladiesagreatdealof trouble.”She accomplishes this by providing straightforwardrecipeswritten ina lucidstyle.Sheexplains:“Ihavenot wrote in the high polite style, I hope I shall beforgiven;formyintentionistoinstructthelowersort,andthereforemusttreatthemintheirownway.Forexample:whenIbidthemlardafowl,ifIshouldbidthem lard with large lardoons (sic), they would notknowwhat Imeant, butwhen I say theymust lardwithlittlepiecesofbacon,theyknowwhatImean.”Themanualofferstypicallywide-ranginginstruction,includinga sectionon recipes suitable for takingona seavoyage. Interestingly,Glassechoosesnot toof-ferthemedicaladvicetypicallyincludedinhouseholdmanualsofthisperiod.Sheexplains:“Ishallnottakeituponmetomeddleinthephysicalwayfartherthantworeceipts,whichwillbeofusetothepublicingen-eral...”Hermedicalsectioninfactcontainssixpiecesofadvice,offeringtwowaystocurethebiteofamaddog,topreventtheplague,tokeepthehousefreefrombugsandtocleanthebedsteadofthem,andabriefsetofinstructionsforamaid.

In keeping with the work’s direct, accessible style,Glasseaimstoteachherreaderstousehumbleingre-dients to createdishes that are satisfying andhave adegreeofelegance.Glassekeepspracticalityinmind,too, in her chapter of recipes for sea voyages (XI,pp.240-248)theproductsofwhicharedesignedtobesuccessfullystoredawayformonths,orevenyears.Ofparticularnoteareherinstructions“tomakecatchuptokeeptwentyyears”-“youmaycarryittotheIndies”.(p.240).Thereisalsoasetofinstructionsforcreatinga“seavenison”fromlamb,cookingthevariouscutsinthefashionofvenison,andensuringthateverypartisused.

Glasse’s work marks an interesting point in the his-toryofthehouseholdmanualbut,despitethework’sappeal, Glasse provides little original material; 263recipesofthe972intheworkaretakenvirtuallywordforwordfromasingleearliersource,The Whole Duty of a Woman (OCF).ThoughDavidsonclaimsthattheculinaryinnovationsofGlasse’sworksare“mostlyillu-sory”,theworkhasagreatdealofsignificance:itdem-onstrateshowthepotentialofthehouseholdmanual

hadbeguntobeexploitedevenbeforeamass-marketforfoodhaddeveloped.

Provenance: Ink name “Hoblyn” written in ink ver-ticallyup the fore-edge;19th ink inscriptionup theinnermarginofp.89“Hoblyn.TheFirHill”,centuryinksignatureontheflyleafandheadofthecontentsleaf“MrsWPagetHoblyn/TheFirHill”and19thcenturyinkstamp“PagetHoblyn”onthetitle,p.258,andrearpastedown.Jane,néeSchultz,wasthewifeofWilliamPagetHoblyn(1817-1899),life-tenantofthe3000acreHoblynestateatColaninCornwall.

[16] [GLASSE(Hannah)]. The Art of Cookery made Plain and Easy;whichfarexceedsanythingofthekindyetpublished.Containing.I.HowtoRoastand Boil to Perfection every Thing necessary to besentuptoTable.[...]XXIII.AReceipttokeepclearfromBuggs.Towich is added,bywayof appendix,onehundredandfiftynewandUsefulreceipts.AndaCopiousIndex.ByaLady.ANewEdition.Withtheorderofamodernbilloffare,foreachmonth.

8vo.[20(of32),384,[24],pp.Lacks leaves A2-7 (To the reader and Contents of Chapters I-III); folding letterpress table “the Order of a Modern Bill of Fare for Each Month” (torn near the spine and browned at the edges).Occasionalspotting/smallstains.Con-temporarycalf(frontcoversligtlydamagedatthefootandloweredge).

London,PrintedforW.Strahan,J.andF.Rivington,[etc.],1774

Maclean,STCofHousehold&CookeryBooks,pp.59-61.ESTCrecordssevencopiesintheUK,oneinGermany,twoinAustralia,andeightinUSA.

Inscribedontheflyleaf:“1813TuesdayApril20/Han-nahMarchonherDeathbedgaveMrsAnnGuythisBook.April23HannahMarchdiedaged67/26shewasburied.”ManuscriptrecipesforGreenGooseberryWineandRaspberryVinegar.July311832”onasheetofpaperlooselyinserted.

[17] HARRISON (Sarah). The House-Keeper’s Pocket-Book, and compleat Family Cook: contain-ing about twelve-hundred curious and uncommonReceipts in Cookery, Preserving, Candying, Pastry,Pickling,Collaring,&c.[...]alsoEveryOnetheirownPhysician:aCollectionofthemostapprovedReceiptsfor the Cure of the Disorders incident to HumanBodies.

“NinthEdition”.12mo.[4],208,[32]pp.Smallstain

to bottom of E7, G8 and verso of G10 (not affect-ing the text); some staining at H8-10 (not affectingthetext),foxingatlowerhalfofI9-10(notaffectingthetext),stainingonlowerhalfofK6-7(notaffectingthetext),3narrowerunnumberedpagesintheindex-“TablesofInterest”.Contemporarysheep;spinedi-videdintosixgold-ruledcompartments; insectdam-agetojointsandfootofspine).

London:Printed for J.RivingtonandSons,B.Law,[etc.],1777

Maclean, STC of Household and Cookery Books, p.66.Firstpublishedin1733.ESTCrecordsacopyofthiseditionattheBritishLibraryinUKonly,andatKansas State University and Stanford in USA [bothlackingapreliminaryleaf ].

An 18th Century household manual aiming to pro-mote “an Elegance in Eating no ways inconsistent with Frugality and good Conduct” and offering carefully selected recipes both grand and modest for the family cook, as well as a section on medical remedies.

InThe House Keeper’s Pocket-Book,SarahHarrisonaimstoprovideasourceofwhatshedeemsthemostvalua-blecommodity,practicalhouseholdknowledge,whichis“ofmuchmoreintrinsickValuethansomeadmiredBranches of Literature.” (Dedication) “What,” asksHarrison,“canreallybeofgreaterUse,thanbyPru-denceandgoodManagementtosupplyaFamilywithallThingsthatareconvenient,fromaFortunewhich,withoutsuchCare,wouldscarceaffordcommonNec-essaries?”Attunedtothepracticalrequirementsoftheprovincial housewife, Harrison offers recipes whoseingredientscaneasilybesourcedaroundthecountry.Shementionsinherprefacetheimproprietyof“print-ingaListofCourses,whicharegenerally calculatedfortheMeridianofLondonthoughtheBookissoldtobeusefulatCoventry,wheretheDoreeandmanyotherfishcannotbeprocured.”Inordertoequipthehousewifeforeffectivecooking,Harrisonalsogivesauseful list of store-cupboard essentials, advising herreaders to have a selection of spices stored in paperbags,readytobeaddedtotheirmeals.

The work contains a large selection of recipes forrobust country cooking, covering in its savoury sec-tionmeat,poultry,gameandfish,andpiesandpud-dings. Accompaniments are also included, such as abaconfroise(p.88),anoldEnglishdishconsistingofabatter-likemixtureprobablyoriginallycookedinthehotfatthatdrippedfromaspit-roastedjoint(BritishFoodTrust). Harrison gives an intriguing pie recipe

usingskirret,asweetwhiterootvegetable,andbonemarrow.Alsoprovidedareaselectionofsweetrecipes,includingaribbonjellyofseverallayerssetinstripes,(p.133)andamethodforavisuallyappealingdisplayof“pyramidcreams”-“pouritintoBeerGlasseswhicharenarrowattheBottom,andwhenthey’recoldturnthemout,fiveonaplate,likepyramids”(p.145).

Theworkalsocontainsasectionprovidingguidanceon medical problems, Everyone their own Physician. Particularlyinterestingisarecipeforabreweddrinkto treat “the Evil, or any Humour tending thereto”.Afterboilingaselectionofpurgingherbs, therecipeinstructsthat“workitwithyeastasyoudoBeer.TakeHalfaPintinaMorning,andifyoudon’tfindthatpurgeenough,takealittlemore.”(p.205).

[18] HENDERSON (William Augustus). The Housekeeper’s Instructor; or, Universal Family Cook. BeinganAmpleandClearDisplayoftheArtofCookeryinallitsVariousBranches.[...]TheSeventhEdition. By William Augustus Henderson, who hasmadetheCulinaryArthisstudyforupwardsofFortyYears.

“SeventhEdition”.8voin4s.440,[20(indexandlistof subscribers)]pp. Engraved frontispiece showing alady presenting her servant with the book, a youngman taking instruction in carving from a referencebook, and cooking equipment (detached from thebook-blockanddamagedalongtheinnermargin);fivefurtherengravedplatesdepicting:1.carvingpheasant,hareandgoose,2.aquarteroflamb,haunchofveni-sonandapig,3.halfacalf ’shead,alegofmuttonandham,4.cutsofbeef,5.suggestedcoursesforasmallcompanyandforafamilyentertainment.Apoorcopy:FoxingtogatheringE,smallpieceatfootofE2tornaway (no loss of text), gatheringL foxed,Ff2-Hh1spotted, Ii1 spotted (affecting a few letters of text),verso3a2andleaf3A3stained(affectingafewlettersoftext).Contemporaryboards(spinemissing,coversrubbed,frontcoverandattachedengravedfrontispieceloose).

London; printed and sold by W. and J. Stratford,1800

Maclean, STC of Household and Cookery Books, p.68-69.

Lively guide to late 18th century cookery and kitchen gardening, including an unusual range of elaborate and ambitiously presented sweet and sa-voury dishes.

Firstpublished inparts in1790.This“seventh”edi-tionisnotlistedbyESTCbutCOPACrecordsacopyat the British Library and decribes it as a reissue ofthe“sixth”editionwhichwasissuedinpartsin?1800.NSTC records editions as late as the twentieth of?1840.

Henderson’s The Housekeeper’s Instructor claims thatits collection of recipes is “the most complete in itsnature ever formed, thewholebeing theproduceoftime, study and experience”. The essentials of cook-ery are presented with additional information onraising livestock and running a kitchen garden. Thework’s learned, lively style, particularly evident inthe supplementary section at its close, distinguishesHendersonfromotherkitchenmanualwritersofthisperiod.ThoughHendersonmakesuseofconventionalwisdomonculinarymatters,themannerinwhichheguideshisreaderthroughthetendingofakitchengar-denandthekeepingoflivestockindicatesanunusualdegreeofliteraryengagementforaworkofthiskind.

Henderson’sselectionofrecipesiswide-ranging.Inhispreface,heclaimsthat:“Thereceipts foreacharticleareformedonsoeasyandcheapaPlan,astobewithinthePurchaseofallranksofPeople.”Hedoes,however,includeaturtlerecipe,thoughheadmitsthat“Theseanimalsnotonlyfurnishthemostdeliciousrepasttotheepicure,buttoallthosewhocanobtainsoluxuri-ousagratification.” (p.41) Ina similarlyextravagantveinistherecipeforicecream,whichassumesaccesstoagoodsupplyofice,presumablyfromthecountryhome’sicehouse.(p.227)Thereisaparticularfocusoncomplexandelaboratelydecoratedsweetandsavourydishes, such as thepopulardessert “Solomon’sTem-pleinFlummery”(p.236)andadesertislandcentre-piece,completewithnatives,constructedfromsweets.(p.256) Dramatic savoury dishes include “Muttonchops in disguise” (p.137) and “Rabbits Surprised”(p.155).

The work also includes instruction on looking afterlivestock, and creating a successful kitchen garden.Hendersondemonstratesagenuineengagementwithanimals, crediting them with often “more sagacitythancouldbeexpected”(p.396).

[19] HOLLAND (Mary). The Complete Eco-nomical Cook, and Frugal Housewife; an Entire New System of Domestic Cookery; containing ap-proved directions for Purchasing, Preserving, andCooking[...]withDirectionsforPastryandConfec-tionary,likewisetheArtofMakingBritishWines[...].

FourthEdition.12moin6s.[4],xxxiii,288,[1]pp.Withanunsignedleafofadvertisementspaginated“4”bound after the general title-page. Engraved frontis-pieceshowingacookinhiskitchenwitharibofbeef,assortedproduceandgame.Additionalengravedtitle-page showing farm scenewithmilkmaid, barrel andbees.Fourengavedplatesshowing:1.arrangementoffirst course and secondcoursedishes,2.Carving,3.Trussing,4.Carvinglargecutsofmeatandfish.Someminorstainsandspotting.Originalboards,coversandspineprintedwiththetitleandadvertisements(jointsslightlycracked,coverssomewhatrubbed).

London.PrintedforThomasTegg,[etc.],1830

A popular manual offering instruction to the housewife on running an economical household, including managing a kitchen garden.

The Complete Economical Cook sets out to instructa housewife in providing good food for her familythroughout the year.Hollandaims “not somuch toenablethecooktopampertheappetiteoftheepicure,astogivesuchinstructionsaswillenablehertosendtotableagood,wholesomeandnutritiousmeal,cookedafter the most approved method.” (Advertisement).Hollandattemptstoaddressthefaultsofothermanu-alsbyproviding instructions thatareofgenuineuseto her readers, eschewing fancy, stylish methods tofocusondevelopingtheskillsneededinthecountrykitchen.Inherintroductiontomeatcookery.Shealsoincludes a number of methods for rescuing spoiledfoodanddrink,suchastheinstructionsto“cureropywine” (p.193) Holland suggests that the wine is fil-teredthroughapieceofcoarselinenclothandmixedwithpowderedalum.

Holland aims to teachher readershow tomake thebest of simple ingredients by cooking them well. Inher section on vegetables, she gives a surprisingly

modern-soundingpieceofadvice:“Mostpeoplespoilgarden things by overboiling them. All things thataregreenshouldhavealittlecrispnessforiftheyareoverboiledtheyneitherhaveanysweetnessorbeauty.”(p.51)Inthespiritofdomesticeconomy,Hollandalsogives instructions for growing produce and lookingafterpoultry inakitchengarden.Hollandclaims itsproduceis“soessentialinafamily”providinga“greatadditiontocookery”(p.247)

Wall,Wendy,“LiteracyandtheDometicArts”,Hunt-ington Library Quarterly,vol.73/3(September2010).

UNIQUE SIGNED BINDING “BOUND BY J*G, 1762”

[20] HONEYWOOD(Lydia).The Cook’s Pock-et Companion. And Compleat Family-guide:beinga collection of the very best receipts, under the fol-lowingheads,viz.Roasting,boiling,frying,broiling,baking, [...]withseveralother things, toonumeroustobementionedinatitle-page,whicharenottobefoundinanyothercollection.[...]TowhichisaddedtheUniversalPhysician,beingChoiceReceiptsfortheCureofmostDisorderstheHumanBodyisLiabletobeAfflictedwith.Collectedbyaneminentphysician,employedbytheauthor.Thewholebeingfreedfromthoseuselessobsoletereceipts,whichaboundinotherbooksofthiskind,andcontainsasmuchusefulmatterintheaboveparticularsasanyotherbookofthiskindthatisfivetimestheprice.

12moin6s.[4],142[of144].pp.Lacking the last leaf of text N6. 11woodcuts;8indicatingtrussingmeth-odsand3indicatingtablesettingsforthearrangementoffirstcoursedishes.Slightlyfoxedthroughout,staintofootofC6andleafD1(notaffectingthetext),smalltear toE3 (not affecting the text), small tears toE5

andE6(notaffectingthetext),teartoK3(notaffect-ingthetext),teartoL3,smallholetoL5(notaffectingthetext),smallteartotopcornerofM5(notaffectingthetext),N5stainedandtorn.Contemporarysheep,SIGNED BY THE BINDER ON THE REAR FLY-LEAF IN INK “BOUND BY J.*G, 1762” [the*be-ingasmallskull]spinewithfiveraisedbands,coversruledinblind;nopastedowns(frontjointbrokenandcoveralmostdetached).

London:printedforJ.Staples,1758

Maclean,STC of Household and Cookery Books,p.71

NeitherwenorPhilippaMarks,thebookbindingex-pertattheBritishLibrary,havecomeacrossanEng-lishbindingsignedinthismanner.

Extremely rare cook’s manual and guide to treating common illnesses. ESTC records the U.S. National Library of Medicine copy only.

Auniquecopyofanundatededition(forC.Hend-erson, ?1756)was soldby thebooskeller JamesBur-mestercirca2001andresoldatBloomsburyAuctionsinSeptember2001for£3500pluspremium.COPACrecordsauniquecopyofa1760edition(forThomasCaslon)attheBrothertonLibrary,Leeds.Itispossilethatallthreearevariantissuesofthesameedition.

The Cook’s Pocket Companion and Compleat Family Guide offersaselectionofpracticalinstructions“toallgoodHousewives,andthosewhoaredesirousofbeingsuch.”

Inherintroduction,datedQueen-Square,May1757,Honeywooddescribeshowshecompiledhermanual,rejectingtheuselessrecipesincludedininferiortexts,alongwith“old-fashionedobsoleteReceipts,thatanypersonwhoknowsanyThingofgenteelManagementwould laugh at...”. Honeywood set out to “pick thecornfromthetares”,leavingherreaderwithessential

useful material. Honeywood’s authority on culinaryandhouseholdmattersisattestedtobyapoeminthefrontispiece“onherexcellentBookofCookery.ByayoungLady”:“WhileotherLadieswastetheDay/Be-twixttheToilette,BallandPlay,/SageLydiaactstheHousewive’sPart,/ExcellingallinSkillandArt...”.

Honeywood’s instructions on food preparation areextremelycomprehensive,andincludepracticalmeth-odstotestmeatandfishforfreshnessandquality.Forexample, “in choosing a Lamb’s Head, observe theEyes;iftheyarewrinkled,orsunkin,itisstale;iflivelyandplump,itisnewandsweet”(p.1)Thesemethodsare followedwith instructionsformeatcookery,andrecipesforbothsweetandsavourypuddings,includ-ingapotatopuddingflavouredwithrose-water,sack,currantsandcandiedpeel.Instructionsareofferedforcakes, jams, jellies, pickles andbrewing, aswell as ausefulrecipeformakingagravy“formostthings”frommutton,beefandvealincase“youliveintheCountry,whereyoucan’talwayshaveGravyMeat...”(p.87)

The Universal Physician containsanumberofinterest-ingremediesandpreventativesuggestionsforhealth,in particular, this formulation “To help children tobreed theirTeeth”: “Take the brains of a Hare thathaseitherbeenboiledorroasted,andmixtheBrainswithHoneyandButter,andrubthechild’sgumsfre-quentlywiththismixture.”(p.115)Alsoincludedare“DrMead’sReceiptfortheCureoftheBiteofamadDog”(p.123),measuresfortreatinggout,and“wrin-klesintheface”(p.130)Arecipefora“PanadaforaweakStomach”,asweetbreadsoupforinvalids,alsofeatures.(p.136).

Provenance:Contemporarysignatureonthefrontfly-eaf“AnneHemingsBook1762”(repeatedinsidetherearboard);manuscriptrecipeinherhandforWest-phaliahamsontherearendpaperandinsidethebackcover.

[21] HOWARD(Henry).England’s Newest Way in all sorts of Cookery, Pastry and all Pickles that are fit to be Used. AdornedwithCopperPlates,settingforththemannerofplacingDishesuponTables;andtheNewestFashioofMincepies.ByHenryHoward,FreeCookofLondon,andlateCooktohisGracetheDukeofOrmond,andsincetotheEarlofSalisbury,and earl ofWinchelsea.To which is added the BestReceiptsforMakingCakes,Mackroons,Biskets,Gin-ger-Bread,French-Bread:asalsoforPreserving,Con-serving,CandyingandDryingFruits,Confectioningand Making of Creams, Syllabubs, and Marmalades

of Several Sorts. Likewise, Additions of BeautifyingWaters,andotherCuriosities.AsalsoaboveFiftynewreceiptsareaddedwhichrender theWorkcompleat.TheFifthEdition.

FifthEdition.8vo.[24],224pp.Fourengravedplatesdepictingthearrangementoffirstandsecondcoursesand two folding plates showing 1. first and secondcoursesand2.“TheSeveralFashionsofMincePyes”.Somewhatdusty,cornersofthefirstfewleavescreased,dampstainattheheadtop.48,scatteredsmallstains/spots,smallholetofourthengravedplate(notaffect-ingtheillustration).Contemporarysheep,ruledingilt(rubbed andworn, patches of insect damageon thecovers andheadand of spinewhere the leatherhasbeenchewedaway;noflyleaves).

London:forJ.Knapton,R.Knaplock,[etc.],1726

A household manual by one of the most distin-guished cooks of the early eighteenth century.

ESTC records only the British Library, Cornell &Folger[imperfect]copiesofthiseditionwhichwasre-issuedin1729asThe British Cook’s Companion (NYPLonly,lacks2plates).

This interesting work provides an insight into thechangingstyleofEnglishcookery.AmidstagrowingknowledgeofFrenchbourgeoiscuisineandhighcook-ery,Englishfoodattemptedtoassimilatesomeofthetechniques and ingredients that defined this elegantstyle (OCF). Howard’s work was first published in1703,justayearafterthefirstEnglisheditionofMas-sialot’s Cuisinier Royal et Bourgeois, published as The Court and Country Cook.AlongsidethefamiliarEng-lishdishesofthisperiod-breastofmutton(p.61),asalamongundy(p.64),gingerbread(110)andchickenstew(p.56)-aremoresophisticatedrecipesforpickledlobster (p.32),court fritters (p.71), roastpike (p.31)andaroyalpastryspicedwithcinnamonandnutmeg

andenrichedwithbutterandcream(p.25“PasteRoy-al”).Howardisconcernedthatheaddressallaspectsofthefemalehouseholder’sexistence,providingadviceoncosmetic treatment“that theymaybeenabled toassist themselvesonallnecessaryOccasions,withouthavingrecoursetoidlepratingGossips,orotherquackPretenders;whowithMercurialFucus’scheatthemoftheirBeautyaswellasmoney”(TotheReader).

HowardsecuredhisreputationasanelegantcookinhisroleascheftotheDukeofOrmonde,andtheEarlsofSalisburyandWinchester,althoughasthetitlepagenoteshewasbythena“FreeCook”,presumablywithhisownpremises.Workingforupperclassfamilieswasan extremely successful way for a cook to make hisname,andwouldoftenresultinahighlymarketablecookbooksuchasthisone.

Provenance: Two contemporary ink inscriptions inDutchontheversoofoneof the foldingplates, thefirstadrinkingandsmokingtoast“...gemakdrinkeneenGoutGlaswijnensmokeeenPyptabak”signed“[-]Dunaer,N.Voogel” and the second (in transla-tion) “This book of all sorts of edible things thataremarket ready [i.e. fresh]belongs toMalijVoogelwhichismyhand”.Inscriptionerasedontheversooftheother foldingplatemakingasmallhole; inscrip-tiononthelastpage“SuckeyChildsherbookgiftof[name erased]”; name “ffrancis House” on the rearpastedown.ASukeyChildswasbornon16December1776 at Aldenham, Hertfordshire, daughter of IssacChilds(1744-95)andHannahByway(1744-99).

[22] KENT (Elizabeth Grey, Countess of ). A Choice Manual of Rare and Select Secrets in Phys-ick and Chyrurgery; Collected,andPractisedbytheRightHonorabletheCountesseofKent,latedeceasedas alsomostExquisiteWaysofPreserving,Conserv-ing,Candying,&c.PublishedbyW.I.Gent.[-ATrueGentlewomans Delight. Wherein is contained all

mannerofCookery:TogetherwithPreserving,Con-serving,DryingandCandying,VeryNecessaryforallLadiesandGentlewomen.PublishedbyW.I.Gent.].

2parts.8vo,[16],176,[16],128pp.[Lacking leaf B1 in part 2 (pp. 1-2)]. Slightlybrowned andgrubbythroughout,anoccasionalshorttearorblankcornertornaway.Contemporarysheep(rebacked,newend-leaves,coversaffectedbydampandwithsevereinsectdamageatthefoot).

London:byG[artrude].D[awson].andaretobesoldbyWilliamShears,1653

Firstpublishedin1653whenthreeeditionsappeared:WingK310A(BL&Brothertononly)with imprint“printedbyR.Norton”and102&96pp.oftext;thepresent-WingK310B(BL&WellcomeLibrary[lack-ing the title-page]; and Yale University only); WingK311“TheSecondEdition”(morecommon)withaportraitandcontinuouspagination(206pp.).

A good copy of a rare early edition of a popular and much-reprinted collection of recipes and medi-cal advice attributed to the former court favourite Elizabeth Grey, the Countess of Kent. Panich calls Grey’s work “the hot copy of...[its] time”.

ThislittleworkisacommonplacebookthatcollectsthemedicalremediesofElizabethGrey(1581-1651),anda selectionof recipes,perhapsbyherhouseholdcook,thewell-knownchefRobertMay.Themedicaladviceprovidedintheworkisnotableforitstone;un-likemanyworksofthisperiod,thereadergetsasenseofthepersonalityofitsauthor,whowritesina“sooth-ingyetauthoritativevoice”(Panich).Intherecipefor“Broath for aConsumption” (pp.19-20), the authoradvises that the patient take the curative mixture ofveal knuckle broth with raisins, dates and almonds“earlyinthemorning,andatthreea(sic)clockintheafternoon,andsocontinueagoodwhiletogetherorelseitwilldoeyounogood.”Thiscaringvoicesuggestsalittleofthemedicalroleofthewomanofthehouseintheseventeenthcentury;itwasherdutytoministertothesick,sincedoctorswerebothscarceandcostly.Theremediesprovideddisplaythetypicalidiosyncra-siesofInterregnummedicalcare:“Forthemthatcan-nothear”,“PutintotheirearsgooddriedSuet.”(43)Amulti-purposesalveisalsosuggested:“TaketheJellyofFrogsinMarch,andstillitinaglasseStill,itisagoodMedicinetostopbloud,andfortheheatandrednesseoftheface,andtocuregreenWounds.”(167)

Therecipesofferedinthesecondpartofthework,A True Gentleman’s Delight, are typically English, withsimple suggestions formeatcookery,anda focuson

preservingfruitsandhedgerowproducesuchasbroombuds(p.32)Itmaybethattheserecipeswereprovidedby well-known cook Robert May, who had enteredservice with Elizabeth Grey by the outbreak of civilwar in1642.FollowingtheRestoration,Maywouldpublish his own work, The Accomplisht Cook, whichprovedextremelypopular,goingintofiveeditionsby1685(ODNB).

Panich(Paula),“TheCountess”,Gastronomica,Vol.1/3(Summer2001),pp.60-66.

[23] [KITCHINER(William)]. Apicius Redivi-vus. The Cook’s Oracle: containingpracticalreceiptsforroasting,boiling,frying,broiling,vegetables,fish,hashes,madedishes,&c.&c.OnthemostEconomi-calPlanforPrivateFamilies;alsotheartofcompos-ingthemostsimple,andmosthighlyfinishedbroths,gravies, soups, sauces, and flavouring essences: TheQuantity of each Article being Accurately Stated byWeight or Measure; the humblest novice may workwith the same certain as the experienced cook. Theresultofactualexperimentsmadeinthekitchenofaphysician,forthepurposeofcomposdingaCulinaryCode for theRationalEpicure, and augmenting thealimentaryenjoymentsofprivatefamilies;combiningEconomywitElegance;andsavingexpensetohouse-keepers,andtroubletoservants.TheSecondEdition,carefullyrevised.

Second Edition. Small 8vo., [40], xxxviii-lvii, [58]-592pp,8pp.ofengravedmusic“AnacreontickSong”;acoupleofpressedflowersbetweentheleaves.Origi-nal blue publisher’s boards and paper spine, printedpaperlabel,uncut(headandfootofspinetorn).

London:forJohnHatchard;[etc.],1818

A good copy of the most famous of Kitchiner’s nu-merouscookerybooks.Itfirstappearedin1817andwentthroughmanyeditions.Itiswritteninadown-to-earthstyle,anddemonstratedKitchiner’sfamiliar-ity with the entire process, from shopping, throughpreparingandservingthedishes,tocleaningup.Itwasan acknowledged sourceof inspiration forMrsBee-ton,andwasminedbythewritersofotherhouseholdguides(seeODNB).

Provenance: Major J. Allen, with contemporary ar-morialbookplate;possiblyHon.JohnWilliamAllen(c.1781-1845), an officer in the Guards underWel-lingtonduringthePeninsularWar,succeedas6th(&last)ViscountAllenin1816.

[24] KITCHINER(William).The Housekeeper’s Oracle; or Art of Domestic Management: contain-ingaCompleteSystemofCarvingwithaccuracyandelegance; hints relative to dinner parties; the art ofmanagingservants,andtheEconomistandEpicure’sCalendar,shewingtheseasonswhenallkindsofmeat,fish,poultry,game,vegetablesandfruits,[...].

12mo.[4],344,[1]pp.Engravedfrontispieceportraitof Kitchiner, 21 illustrations in the text of carvingmethods,andadiagramofajellyrefiner.Somelightspotting,teartolowercornerofB6(notaffectingthetext),text-blocksplitatH12andI12,verysmallholetoN2(notaffectingthetext).

Originaldrabboards(spineandjointscracked,piecetornawayfromspinewithpartofthelabelandloose,somestainingtobackcover).

London, printed for Whittaker, Treacher and Co.,1829

A spirited household management manual by the epicure and writer William Kitchiner, addressing the diverse problems facing the 19th century house-wife. The work is a wry philosophical consideration of food production, budgeting, and housework.

The Housekeeper’s Oracle offers wisdom on many as-pects of running a successful nineteenth centuryhousehold,includingcarefulshoppingandeconomi-caluseofingredients,managingservants,andcleaningthehouse.Kitchiner’seffusivestylecombinespracticaladvicewithhumorouscommentaryonthedisciplinesinvolved inhouseholdmanagement.Beginningwitha shorthistoryof cooking fromAthenaeusonwards,Kitchiner provides instructions and diagrams oncarving,anarthedescribesas“thephilosophyofthebanquet”,price lists formeat,poultry,fishandfreshproduce,andaphilosophicaldiscourseonpuddings.

Intended as a companion piece to the Cook’s Oracle of1817,thiseditionofThe Housekeeper’s OraclewasissuedtwoyearsafterWilliamKitchiner’sdeathfromaheartattackin1827.Kitchiner,anepicureandwriter,claimedfalselybutconvincinglythathehadattendedEtonandreceivedamedicaldegreefromGlasgow,andwasheldasanauthorityonbothcookingandmedi-cal matters. The journalistWilliam Jerdan describedhim thus: “His medical and gastronomical practiceswerewonderfullycombined,insomuchthathisguestscouldnottellwhetherwhatwassetbeforethemwasamealoraprescription.”(paraphrasefromODNB).

Provenance:Inkinscriptiononthepastedown“M.H.toJ.H.1864”.

[25] KNIGHT(Charles). Vegetable Substances used for the Food of Man.

12mo in 6s. viii, 396pp.With 67 engraved illustra-tions in the text showing the plants described, andsome methods of harvesting and processing. VerysmallpieceofI3removed(nolossoftext),veryslightbrowning torectoofR1, smallmark toversoofR2(notaffectingthetext),lowercornersofgathering2Ijust folded under. Contemporary half red moroccoand marbled boards, marbled endpapers, spine withgiltletteringanddecoration(coversslightlyrubbed).

London: Charles Knight; Longman, Rees, Orme,Brown,&Green;[etc.],1832

An illustrated work on vegetables and grains by the “popular educator”, publisher and philanthropist Charles Knight.

Vegetable Substances used for the Food of Manprovidesits readerwithaculturalhistoryofcommonlyculti-vated vegetables, grains and edible plants alongsideattractiveillustrationsandconsidersthepotentialim-pactofagricultureonhumanexistence.Knightclaimsthat cultivation of the land is the basis upon whichsociety has been formed; “through...which man hasbeenenabledtolocalizehimself,toreapandtostoreupharvests;andbythisbecomingfreedfromaninces-santcalluponhisphysicalenergiesforthesupplyofhisnecessities,toacquirethemotivesandthemeansforsomethinghigherandbetterinthescaleofbeing.”Knightalsoviewsthetradeinediblecommoditiesasvitaltomaintainingpeacefuldialoguebetweencoun-tries:“Thetruewaytokeepmankindinpeaceistoletthemprovehowdependenteverynationisupontheotherfortheprofitableemploymentofitspeople,andforthegeneralcomfortsofitspeople,resultingfromthatprofitableemployment.”(p.396)

ThisworkformedpartoftheLibrary of Entertaining Knowledge,aseriescreatedfortheSocietyfortheDif-fusionofUsefulKnowledgebetween1829and1837,anddesigned to standalongside itsLibrary of Useful Knowledge.

[26] LONDON GENUINE TEA COMPANY. The History of the Tea Plant;fromtheSowingoftheSeed,toitsPackagefortheEuropeanMarket,includ-ingeveryInterestingParticularofthisAdmiredExotic.Towhichareadded,RemarksonImitationTea,ExtentoftheFraud,LegalEnactmentsagainstitandtheBestMeansofDetection.

First&onlyedition.8vo.viii,[9]-60pp.Disbound.

Wood-engraved folding plate showing the 12 stagesof tea production with an image an English Factorbargaining with a Chinese merchant in the centre.Slightlyfoxedthroughout,slightmarktoheadofversoB4, marks to the spine between verso C7 and rectoC8,staintofootofE1affectingasmallsectionoftext.Disbound.

London: Lackington, Hughes, Harding, Mavor andJones.1819

A short 19th century work on tea, addressing its origins, its production, and its benefits. The work was distributed by the London Genuine Tea Com-pany with the aim of promoting quality tea.

The History of the Tea Plant claimsthattea,whilst“asubject generally interesting” is “comparatively un-known.” The work therefore sets out to correct thisknowledgegapbyprovidinginformationthatwillnotonlyinformtheconsumerontea’sculturalhistory,butwillalsoallowthemtomakeinformedchoiceswhenpurchasingtea.Itaimstoenable“everyconsumerofteatobeajudgeofquality,andtherebypreventthoseimpositionswhichrecenteventshaveprovedtobesofrequent.”(v)Thepopularityoftea,combinedwiththehightaxesleviedonlegitimatelyimportedtea,meantthatfaketeaswerecommonplace.Inmanycasestheseweresimplyleavesofotherplants;however,somemer-chantstreatedleaveswithchemicalsthatrenderedtheirproductpoisonous,andinsomecases,fatal.TheLon-donGenuineTeaCompanyacknowledgesthecausesofthesefrauds,whilstcondemningtheirresponsible,profiteeringattitudeofteamerchants:“Theheavydu-tiespayable toGovernmentupon thesearticlesholdoutastrongtemptationtothosewhoscruplenottoenrich themselves by fraud, although at the expenseof thehealth,andeventhe livesof thecommunity.”(p.45)

Theworkalsoprovidesagreatdealofinformationontheculturalhistoryoftea.

[27] M. (W.). The Queens Closet Opened. In-comparableSecretsinPhysick,Chirurgery,Preserving,CandyingandCookery;astheywerePresentedtotheQueen[...]Neverbeforepublished.[-AQueensDe-light,ortheArtofPreserving,Conserving,andCan-dying;asalsoarightknowledgeofmakingPerfumes,anddistillingthemostExcellentWaters.Neverbeforepublished.].

First Edition. 12mo. [8 (of 12)],1-24 [lacking 25-48},49-296, [24 (inc. final advertisement leaf )] pp.Lacking leaves A1 (the engaved portrait), A6-8, and

D1-8;lowerpartofO3andO7tornawaywithlossofabout8 linesonrectoandverso; titleandp.107shaved at the fore-edge, soiled and grubby through-out,afewshorttears(someintothetext).

Contemporary sheep, covers panelled in blind; nopastedowns (spine rubbed and lower two compart-mentschipped;coversrubbed).

[London:]forNathanielBrook,1655

WingM96.ESTCrecordssixcopiesinUK,andseveninUSA,severalofwhichareimperfect.

First edition of a work claiming to offer a definitive collection of remedies compiled by Queen Henriet-ta Maria (d.1669), including advice from a number of contemporary court figures. The work suggests treatments for an ambitious range of ailments, as well as instructions for cosmetic treatments, per-fume production, and the preservation of fruit.

The Queens Closet OpenedcomprisesThe Pearl of Prac-tise, offering “accurate, physical and chirurgical re-ceipts”(p.1)andA Queens Delight,containingrecipesforjams,sweetsandperfumes.Theremediesdealwithailmentsrangingfromcoughs,coldsandbruisestothetreatment of small pox scars (pp.135-140). Furtheradvice isofferedonmoreseriouscomplaints suchashernias(145)andconsumption,aswellasaselectionofpreventativeandremedialmeasuresfortheplague,and a tincture to cure a dog suffering with mange(120).

Includedintheworkareanumberofremediesattrib-utedtonoblewomenincludingLadyGraceMildmay’sdrinkforacoughorcold(p.164).Mildmaywasoneof the few respected female medical practitioners oftheperiod.OnlyMildmaywasexemptedfromade-nunciationofwomendoctorsbytheoculistRichardBanister,whoreferredtoherasa“rightreligiousandvirtuouslady”.AlsoincludedisaremedyfromLadyArundel(p.168),thoughttobetheauthorofNatura exenterata,asophisticatedbookondomesticscience.(paraphrasefromODNB)Arecipefora“CordialWa-terofSirWalterRaleighfeatures(p.274),usingstraw-berries,sugarandaquavitae.Alsoofferedisatransla-tionof a recipe for amulti-purpose “Emplaister” tocoverandhealwounds,soresandrashesattributedtothemedievalphysicianParacelsus(p.150).

Theepistleissigned“W.M.”,whomaybetheCatholic-convertsontheEarlofManchesterWalterMontague(1604/5-77), a member of the queen’s household.Included in thework is a recipe for“AquaMirabilisSirKenelmDigby’sway”(290).Digbymayalsohavecontributedtotheentryonsnailwater(p.288),having

introducedediblesnailstothegroundsofhishouseforhiswife,believingthattheywouldpreserveheryouthandbeauty(ODNBparaphrase).

Provenance:EarlysignatureMrWm.Kessell”onthetitle andon theversoof the tite; some ink scribblesontheversoofthetitle;inknote“theoldLadyOx-ford’soyl”onp.156and“certainplaistersandtheiruse”onp.188,“a short receite foracowthathath”onp.191.Early signsture“WilliamDawon”on thefinalpage.A loosely inserted slipdated1927withamanuscriptrecipeforasnailpoulticetobeappliedtoachild’sjoints(“inuse77yearsago&yechildquitecured”)isatestimonytothelongevityofthistypeoffolkremedy.

Archer, Jayne, “The Queens’ Arcanum”, Renaissance Journal6(2002).

[28] M. (W.). The Compleat Cook. Expertly prescribing the most ready Wayes, whether, Italian, Spanish or French, for dressing of Flesh, and Fish, ordering of Sauces, or making of Pastry.

12mo. 123, [21 (inc. 14pp. of advertisements)] pp.Lacking text leaves A8-9, C6-7, E12. Title-pagecreased,someruledbordersshavedatthehead,lowerinnercornerofA4-5damaged(touchingtheborder),staining to foot of gathering F (just touching a fewletters of text), corner of F12 torn away (no loss oftext).Disbound.

London:byE.B.forNath.Brook,1658

Wing M90. ESTC records copies at the British Li-brary,Bodleian,andSheffieldUniversityonly in theUK; Harvard and NewYork Public Library only inNorth America. Including a 14 page catalogue ofbooksprinted forNathanielBrooknotcalled forbyESTC,althoughtheissueofthesameyearwithouttheprinter’sinitialsintheimprint(WingM91)doescallforthem.

Firstpublishedin1655.Sometimesalsoissuedaspartof“TheQueensclosetopened”(ESTC).

A practical guide to 17th century cookery that of-fers recipes from a range of British and Continental contemporary sources.

ThiscollectionofrecipesattributedtoW.M(ESTC),authorofThe Queens Closet Opened (1655) includesmanycontributionsattributedtocontemporarypublicfigures.Therecipesincludeposset“theEarleofArun-delsway”(p.3),LadyAlbergavere’sCheese(p.42)andLordConway’samberpuddings.Aparticularlyinter-esting inclusion is the Countess of Rutland’s recipe

fora“muchpraised”Banburyfruitcakeservedattheweddingofhereighteenyearolddaughter,LadyGraceManners, toPatricius,3rdViscountofChaworth in1653.(p.109)

The Compleat Cookprovidesarangeofsweetandsa-vouryrecipesaswellasinstructionsonfoodproductionfromfarmyardtolarder,withsuggestionsonhow“tomakechickensfatinfourorfivedays”(p.76)andonpicklingahaunchofvenison“tokeepe...alltheyeare”.(p.100)Theingredientsusedrangefromthequotidiantothehighlysought-after, including“halfeanounceofAmbergreece”forConway’samberpuddings.

This work, often bound in later editions with The Queens Closet Opened, has been attributed to W.M,whomaybetheCatholic-convertsontheEarlofMan-chesterWalterMontagu (1604/5-77),whodescribeshimselfasoneofthe“lateservants”ofQueenHenri-ettaMariainthetitlepageofThe Queens Closet.

[29] MACHET (J.-J.).Le Confiseur Moderne,oul’artduconfiseur etdudistillateur, contenant touteslesopérationsduConfiseuretduDistillateur, et, enoutre,lesprocédésgénérauxdequelquesArtsquis’yrapportent,particulièrementceuxduParfumeuretduLimonadier.[...].

Fourth edition. 8vo. xvi, 462 pp. Light spottingthoughout,slightlyaffectedbydampattheend.Orig-inalpinkpaperwrappers,printedpaperlabelonspine,uncut (covers fadedand slightly frayedat the edges,jointsrubbed,somelossatthefootofthespine).

Paris:chezMaradan,1821

Hand-written recipe for cremedepistachesbetweenpages304-5.

A good copy in original condition of an early 19th century guide to the art of confiserie that elucidates practical methods of producing sophisticated and elegant sweets, preserves, perfumes, cosmetics and herbal medicines.

Firstpublishedin1803andinan“8th”[i.e.9th.]edi-tionin1846.COPACrecordsnocopiesofthisedi-tionintheUKandOCLCrecordscopiesinthUSAatCaliforniaStateLibrary-Fresno,Columbia,Harvard,Indiana,KansasState,NationalLibraryofMedicineandinCanadaattheUniversityofWaterloo.

InhisintroductiontotheConfiseur Moderne,Machetstateshis aimto reveal themostuseful andeffectivewaysofproducingattractivesweets.Hecriticisesthosewhodiligentlyhidethemethodsofnumeroususeful

processes,thoseconfectionerswhoareguiltyofissuingrecipe books lacking vital information on executingtheprocessesofsweetmakinganddistillation.Hesug-geststheywishtokeepalltheprofitoftheirindustryjust for themselves, aiming to completely veil theirmethods.Instarkcontrasttosuchinstructors,Machetprovidesaclearandcomprehensiveguidetocreatinga vast range of sweet foods and perfumed products.Machet himself acknowledges that he has produceda lengthywork,but that “it isdifficult indeed tobelaconic.”(xij)ThebookactsalsoasacompanionpiecetoMassialot’s1692workonthesamesubject,Nouvelle Instruction pour les Confitures,attemptingtoansweritsdeficiencies.Machetmakesanobliquereferencetotheearlier work, claiming that it was composed to be aguide for the officier du bouche rather than for theconfectioner. Machet’sConfiseur Moderne builds onMassialot’s work, offering an unrivalled selection ofsweetrecipes.

The Confiseur Moderne makes evocative use of lan-guagetodescribeingredientsandprocesses,differenti-atingthetextfromearlierworksonthesubjectwhicharefarmorefactual.Forexample,intheauthor’sfrontadvertisementpreservingisdescribedas“thekeytotheart,orrather,thelightwhichmustlighttheartistinallhisworkings.(viij)Thebookalsoattemptsparticularlyambitious culinaryproductions, such as instructionsformarbleddrageesandblownsugarbottles forfill-ingwithhomemadeliqueurs.Alsoofinterestaretheinstructionsforartificialsugarflowers(p.81),andthesectionondrageesorcomfits(p.168-172),usingthefamousmethoddevelopedatVerdun.

Anotherdistinguishingfactorofthisworkisthefor-matoftherecipes,listedinthemodernfashionwithingredients and their quantities at the head of eachrecipe.Earlierrecipecollectionsintegratetheingredi-entsandtheirquantitieswiththebodyoftherecipe.

Inaddition to the recipesMachetoffers instructionsforanumberofperfumedproducts,suchasalippo-made(p.342),soaps(p.348),andsachets(p.353)andscented pastilles for burning (p.357). A number ofrecipesforherbaltabletstreatingminorailmentssuchasstomachcomplaintsarealsoincluded,aswellasaformula for tablets that Machet ambitiously claimscanstaveoffepilepsy(p.365).

WeknowlittleofMachet’slife;however,hewritesinthepreface thathe iskeentosharehis twentyyears’practicalexperienceofproducingconfectionarywithhis readers. Machet’s passion for the art of makingconfectionary is evident both from the manner inwhichhedescribeshisingredients,andfromhisdesire

thathisbookmayservetofurtherthearttowhichhehasdevotedhiscareer.

[30] MARKHAM(Gervase).The English Hous-Wife, Containing the Inward and Outward Vertues which ought to be in a Compleat Woman. AsherSkill in Physick, Surgery, Cookery, Extracation ofOyles,BanquettingStuffe,OrderingofGreatFeasts,[...] A work generally approved, and now the fifthtimemuchaugmented,purged,andmademostprof-itableandnecessaryforallmen,andthegeneralgoodofthenation.ByG.M.

8vo.[10],66[lacking67-68,61-70],71-88,98,98-99,92-188,pp.CornerremovedatheadofB7,smallinkspotstoversoofC2,inkspotstoheadofrectoD7,gatheringEspotted,lowercornerofE4miscut,gath-ering F lacking 6 leaves [F2-7], contemporary an-notationstoG4“afoole”and“2fooles”,smallclosedteartoH5toH7(notaffectingthetext),sectionofI2removed(notaffectingthetext),greenstaintoversoofI2andrectoI3,andagainatversoI6andrectoI7.Textiscontinuousdespitepagination.Early20th-centurytreecalf,redmoroccolabelandgiltlettering,spinedi-videdintosixcompartmentsandgiltruled,frontjointcrackedandchewedbyinsectsinseveralplaces,backcoververyslightlychewed).

London:byW.Wilson,forE.Brewster,andGeorgeSawbridge,1653

The quintessential Renaissance household manual instructing the housewife in her duties. “For the social historian...Gervase Markham’s numerous works are indispensable guides to the practicalities of Renaissance life.” (ODNB)

Firstpublishedas ther secondpartofCountrey Con-tentments (1615)andregularlyreprintedseparately.

The English Hous-wife providesallthetrainingrequiredtofoster“theinwardandoutwardVertueswhichoughttobe ina compleatWoman” (Titlepage).DedicatedtoFrancis,CountessDowagerofExeter(1580-1663),the work includes information on medical matters,cookery, dyeing, preparing wool and brewing. Theimportanceofsuchtaskstotheroleofwomenshouldnotbeunderestimated;inhisintroductiontothesec-tiononcookery,Markhamclaimsthatifawifedoesnotknowhowtocookforherhusband,“indeedshemay love and obey, but she cannot serve, and keephimwiththattruedutywhichiseverexpected.”(p.56)Withthisinmind,Markhamoffersrecipesalongsideadviceontheservingoffoodanddrink,andonplant-ing herbs. Markham gives instructions for elaborate

“royall” feasts, alongside advice on serving “a morehumble feast” forone’sclose friends.Agreatdealofimportanceisplacedonthemannerinwhichfoodisserved;Markhamclaimsthatifawomanisignorantofhowtopresentthedishesthatshehaslearnedtocook,it“isliketoafencerleadingabandofmeninarout,whoknowstheuseoftheweapon,butnothowtoputmeninorder.”(p.98)

Keentoprovideacomprehensiveguideforthehouse-wife,Markhamalsoaddressesbrewingandyeastcook-ery.Thissectionincludesaselectionofbreadrecipes,with a fine white manchet loaf for the household,and a coarse brown bread “for your hinde-servants”(pp.186-187). Markham also provides a section ondistilling,with recipes for “SixmostpreciouswaterswhichHippocratesmadeandsent toaqueensome-timelivinginEngland”,(p.105).

Provenance:Inkinscriptionontheflyleaf:“LydiaLes-lie4thAugust1914fromherfatherG.D.L.”.

[31] MASSIALOT(Francois).Nouvelle Instruc-tion pour les Confitures, les Liqueurs, et les Fruits;oul’onapprendaconfiretoutessortesdeFruits,tantsecs que liquides; et divers Ouvrages de Sucre quisontdufaitdesOfficiersetConfiseurs;aveclamani-ere de bien ordonner un ou l’on apprend a confiretoutessortesdeFruits,tantsecsqueliquides;etdiversOuvrages de Sucre qui sont du fait des Officiers etConfiseurs;aveclamanieredebienordonnerunFruit.

12mo.[16],518,[42],pp.3engravedfoldingplatesillustrating:1. tabledecorations for adessert course,2.asuggesteddisplayofseasonalfruit,3.aselectionofsweetsanddesserts.Smallrust-holetoblanklowerpartoftitlepage;dampstainemanatingfromtheinnermargininplacesthroughout.Contemporarymottledcalf,giltspine,marbledendleaves(rubbed,edgesandcornersworn,someinsectdamagetothesurfaceoftheleatheronthecovers

Paris:ChezDidot,1740

A comprehensive instruction manual on the uses of fruit and flowers in the production of sweets, jams, compotes, biscuits and drinks by one of the fore-most figures of French cookery.

Nouvelle Instruction pour les Confitures offers recipesoneveryaspectof fruitpreservationandconfection-ery,frommakingflowerandfruitcompotestoenjoyallyearround,tobiscuits,drageesand liqueurs.Theworkalsoincludesadetailedguideallowingthecookto choose equipment to approach its complex setof

recipes, as well as information on the best time tocollect seasonal fruit. Instructions pour les Confituresclaims in itspreface tooffer anewmethodofmak-ingfruitconserves,andMassialotiskeentoindicatethatthereareseveralpointsofdifferencebetweenthisandthemanyothertextsavailableatthistimeonthesubjectofjammaking.

First published in 1692 this is Massialot’s secondwork.InthelightofagrowingsuspicionoftheartificeemployedinFrenchcookery,previouslyheldtobetheheightof sophistication,Nouvelle Instruction pour les Confituresrecommendsasimpler,honestapproachtothedisplayoffreshfruitanditspreservation.Inthein-troductiontothesection“NouvelleInstructionpourlesFruits”,Massialoturgeshisreadertopresentfruitstoshowofftheirnaturalappeal-“onemust...thinkontheproductsofnatureintheformsthatshegivesthemtous.”(p.450)Adetailedsetof instructionsfollows,privilegingfreshfruitwithprideofplaceoveritsdriedorpreservedequivalentsintabledisplays.(p.514)Thisnew brand of refinement, that sees fresh produce asmorethansimplyarawingredientthatmustbeproc-essedandtransformed,isasignificantmoveawayfromthe stuffedandsculptedcreationsof thefirsthalfofthe17thcentury.

FrancoisMassialot(d.1733)workedasan“officierdebouche”,cookingfortwoDukesofOrleans,theDukeofAumontandtheCardinalofEstrées.

Davis,JenniferJ.,“Mastersofdisguise:FrenchCooksbetweenArt andNature, 1651-1793”,Gastronomica(Winter2009),pp.36-49.

[32] MENON (-). La Cuisinière Bourgeoise, suivie de l’Office, à l’Usage de tous ceux qui se mêlent de la dépense des maisons;contenantlamanierededisséquer,connoitreetservirtoutessortesdeviandes.DerniereÉdition,augmentéedeplusieursragoûtsdesplus nouveaux, et de différentes recettes pour les li-queurs, avecunexxplicationparordre alphabétique,destermesenusagepourCuisineetl’Office.

12mo.vi,384pp.LowercornerofleafB1tornaway(nolossoftext),smalltearstoE7andE8affectingafewlettersoftext,marktooutermarginsofversoH6,leafH7andversoofH8(notaffectingthetext),leafI1soiled(affectingafewlettersoftext),leafM6soiled(affectingafewlettersoftext),leafP5soiled(affectinga few letters of text). Original wrappers with hand-writtenspinelabel,pastedownsfromaFrenchauctioncatalogueofengravings,edgesuncut.

Lyon:chezAmableLeroy,1802

An excellent copy of a French work that provides elegant recipes accessible to the bourgeois table.

La Cuisinière Bourgeoise offers a portrait of Frenchbourgeoiscookery.Firstpublishedin1746andregu-larly reprinted, the work proved vastly popular andplayed a part in transforming the French culinarylandscapeandestablishingasimplified,elegant“nou-vellecuisine”.Menonapproachesthesubjectofbour-geoisfoodassumingnopriorknowledgeofthisstyleofcookeryfromthereader:“Iftheyarenovicesinthisart,theycanbothlearnandpracticewithoutpainthepreceptsthathe[theauthor]hastakencaretolaybeforethem,anddismissthatembarrassingsuperabundanceofrefinedseasoningsandindustriousdisguises,whichdemandratherlessskill intheircooks,thanostenta-tionintheirmasters”(Preface).Menonstatesthatthisworkisdesignedforawiderreadershipthanhis1739Nouveau Traité de la Cuisine.Theworkomitscompli-cated,expensiverecipes“whichcouldonlyhavebeenofuseingrandhousesoramongstthewealthy”;nowMenoniswritingfor“peopleofmiddlestandingorofmoderatefortune”(Preface).Menonadmitsthat“theeyeandthetastebudswillreceiveasmallerreward”but“the health and the bank balance will benefit”. Thisdefinitionofbourgeoiscookeryisengaging:thereci-pescontainedinthework,thoughsimplerthan,say,thoseofthearchetypalcourtcookMassialot,retainagreatdealofstyleandflair.Indeed,Menonclaimsthatthebourgeoishouseholdcanbeennobledbytheartsof the table, andhe includes carving instructions toensurethathouseholderscanservefoodinstyle.

Aswellasinstructionsonpreparingandservingfood,theworkoffersaglossaryoftermsfortheequipmentcommonlyusedinthebourgeoiskitchen.Thesetermsprovide us with a particularly valuable insight intothepracticalmethods aswell as the theoryof cook-ery during this period. Kitchen equipment such asthe“turbotière”isdescribed,aroundandflatcopperfishkettlewithapiercedsheetofcopperat thebasetoallowthecheftodrainaturbotwithoutbreakingthedelicateflesh.Despitetheclaimthatthebookisdesigned forhouseholdsofmoremodestmeans, theglossaryincludesadescriptionofa“fruiterie”forstor-ingfruit.Menonexplainsthatthismustbeadryplace,neither too cold nor too warm, and kept dark withgoodshuttersandcurtains.Hesuggeststhatthecookvisitthefruiteriefromtimetotimetoairthefruitandthuspreserveitinthebestpossiblecondition.

[33] MENON (-). CLERMONT (B.), translator&editor.The Professed Cook; or, the Modern Art of Cookery, Pastry, & Confectionary, made plain and easy; consistingofthemostApprovedMethodsin theFrench, aswell asEnglishCookery. InwhichtheFrenchNamesofallthedifferentDishesaregivenandexplained,wherebyeveryBillofFarebecomesin-telligibleand familiar.With theadditionof thebestreceipts, which have ever appeared in the French orEnglishLanguages.ByB.Clermont.TheTenthEdi-tion,revisedandmuchenlarged.

8vo.xxxix,[i(blank)],549,[1(blank)]pp.Somelightfoxing / spotting, a few inkblots onpp.254-5 andoccasionallyelsewhere,dustyinplaces.Contemporarybuffboards, cloth spine,printedpaper label (boardsrubbed, worn at the edges and corners; book-blocksplitatp.240).

London:byC.Richards;forT.Simpson,1812

AtranslationofMenon’sLes Soupers de la Cour (1755).FirstpublishedinEnglishasThe Art of Modern Cook-ery (1767)whichwasreisueedin1769asThe Professed Cook: or the Modern Art of Cookery and reprinted in1776 (“third edition, revised and much enlarged”).NSTClistsonly this“tenthedition”which isviritu-allyadirectreprintofthethirdedition(withouttheprefatory material) and of which COPAC lists onlytheBritishLibrarycopyandWorldcataddscopiesatBerlin,Cornell,Detroit,Guelph,andHarvard.

“TheBooktheTranslationofwhichmakesamaterialpart of this Work, is the last Production on FrenchCookery,printedinParis,bytheKing’sPrivilege,in-titled, Les Soupers de la Cour. I shall not pretend tomakeanyfurtherApologyforthetitleofSupper,thanthattheFrenchare,ingeneral,moreelegantintheirSuppersthantheirDinners.IprocureditfromFranceformyownHelpand Instruction,as aClerkof theKitchen;andfindingitofgreatUtility,IthoughtthataTranslationwouldbeboth agreeable anduseful tomany Gentlemen, Ladies, and others, as it containsthegreatestNumberofthemostapprovedandnewestReceiptsinCookery,Pastry,andConfectionary,ofthepresentTime;andasBillsofFarearemostlyinFrench,Ialsothoughtitverynecessary,andofparticularUse,toretainalltheFrenchNamesandApellations,givingat the sameTimea literalTranslation,or theMean-ing fromwhencederived,bywhichIhope tobeal-lowedtheExpressionofreconcilingtheEnglishMaitre d’HoteltotheFrenchCook.”(Prefacetothe1776edi-tion;printedhere).

Ink signature on the front pastedown “J. [or S.]McKenzie”.

[34] NEEDHAM, RAWLINS & CO. Directions for Brewing with Needham, Rawlins, & Co.’s Pat-ent Family Brewing Machine. PrintedforthePaten-tees,andSoldbythemattheirWarehouses,SkinnerStreet,London;andNarrowWineStreet,Bristol.AndbyalltheirAgents.

Sixth Edition. 8vo. 18pp., folding frontispiece withengravingsofthemachineandletterpresstext,asin-gleleafondifferentpaperwithalistofagentsforthemachine around the country (printed by W. New-man,Widegate-st.Bishopsgate”.Stitchedasissuedincontemporarybuffwrappers,uncut(wrappersslightlysoiled).

London:byT.H.Coe,1813

“Malt liquor has ever been considered in this coun-tryaConstitutionalBeverage,andtheadvantagesofprivatebrewingwereatalltimessufficientlyobvious,bythereducingiteffectedinthecost,andthepleas-ureofhavingBeerofany strength required;but theinconveneienceanduncertaintyattendantonit,havepreventeditsgeneraladoption.Toavoidthesedifficul-ties,byaCompact, Portable Brewing Apparatuus,whichshouldembracethemoreimportantobjectofproduc-ingsuperiorMaltLiquor,hasbeenthedevotedstudyoftheinventorsofthisMachine,which removes all un-certainty in Brewing(anobjectthathaseludedtheat-tentivesearchofthemostscientificBrewers);requiresbut little labour, and obtains a greater extract frombothMaltandHops,without the necessity of mashing,atediousandinconvenientoperation.”(Preface).

Beerwasahouseholdstapleinanagewhenthewaterwasverylikelytobepoisonous-evenschoolchildrenwereallowedarationof“small”orweakbeer-anditalsohadtheadvantageofkeepingtheservantsoutofthe public houses. Intererstingly, home brewing wascloselyalliedtothetemperancemovement inVicto-riantimes.

Charles Edward Rawlins left the partnership withJamesNeedhamandJosephRawlinson31December1813(London Gazette).

[35] NUTT (Frederic). The Imperial and Royal Cook:consistingofthemostsumptuousmadedishes,Ragouts,Fricassees,Soups,Gravies,&c.ForeignandEnglish:IncludingtheLatestImprovementsinFash-ionableLife[...]

12mo.xxiv,311,[20],pp.Engravedfrontispiecepor-traitTeartoE7(nolossoftext),smallmarktoG12(notaffecting the text).Originalboards,coverswithprinted title and advertisements (joints worn, sometearsinthesurfacepaper,andbackcoverrubbed).

London:forMatthewsandLeigh,1809

A recipe collection that offers elegant sweet and savoury dishes for affluent households by the con-fectioner Frederic Nutt.

The Imperial and Royal Cook (of which there was a2nd editin in 1819) provides us with an engagingpicture of early 19th century sophistication. Nuttclaimsthathedoesnotaimformassappeal;instead,heofferselaboraterecipesusingexpensiveingredientsfor “opulent families”, who “wish to give handsomeoccasionalentertainmentstotheirselectfriends.”(Ad-vertisement).Nuttalsostatesthathismanualoffersamoresophisticatedbrandofcookerythanotherrecipecollectionsoftheperiod,frequentlyauthoredbycookswithpracticalexperienceofcookinginpublichouses.Nutt’s focus on sophisticated cookery allows him toomit the conventional sections from contemporaryhouseholdmanualsonbasicculinaryprocesses:“Idonotprofesstogiveanyhackneyedreceiptsforboilingorroasting,broilingorbaking,buthaveconfinedmyselectionchieflytothehigherdepartmentsoftheart,such as made dishes, ragouts, fricassees, soups &c.”(Advertisement).

The recipes that Nutt offers make extensive use ofmeat, served with elaborate continental-style sauces,or stuffed. The focus of the work on “made dishes”indicates the time and energy that Nutt expects thecook to put into the preparation of a successful so-cietydinner. Nutt frequentlymakesuseof typicallyFrenchcookingtoevokeanelaboratestyle,includingdishesaugratin,alaDauphineandalaReine.Sweetdishesaresimilarlycomplex,suchasgateaumillefleur(p.208). The title evokes Massialot’s seminal 1691work on sophisticated French cookery, Le Nouveau Cuisinier Royal et Bourgeois,demonstratingtheinflu-enceofClassicalFrenchcookerythroughtheprismofitsEnglishinterpretationsintheintercedingcentury;the received ideas of French culinary sophisticationpresentedintheworkareverydifferentfromtheactu-alityofFrenchhighclasscookeryduringthisperiod.

Frederic Nutt was apprenticed to the Italian con-fectioner Domenico Negri at the Pot and Pineappleconfectioner’s shop inBerkeleySquare.Thisappren-ticeshipwouldhaveallowedNutttoacquiretheskillsnecessary to cook and present complex dishes with

elaboratedecorations.

Provenance:Inksignatureontheflyleaf“Eliz:Elsley”.

[36] NUTT (Frederic). MACHET (J.-J.), editor.The Complete Confectioner; or, the Whole Art of Confectionary made easy: alsoReceiptsforHome-MadeWines,Cordials,Frenchand ItalianLiqueurs,&c.ByFrederickNutt.[...]EighthEdition,correctedand improved by J. J. Machet, distiller and confec-tioneratParis.

12mo.xxiv,261,[1(blank)],[2(advertisements)]pp.EngravedfrontispieceshowingPomonawithapotandpineapple,10engravedplates(ofwhich3arefolding),suggesting theplacementofdesserts and sweetmeatsattable,thelastplateshowingasyringemould.End-papers foxed, frontispiece and plate 9 foxed, rectoC12slightlybrowned,otherplatesandthetextlightlyspotted,lowercornersofsheetKcreased.Contempo-rarysheep(jointssplit,spinebrokenatheadandtail,verticalcrackupthespine,someinsectdamagetotheleather).

London: for Samuel Leigh; and Baldwin, Cradock,andJoy,1819

A comprehensive guide to the art of confectionery by Frederic Nutt, a former apprentice at the Pot and Pineapple, in Berkeley Square.

The Complete Confectioner, first published in 1789,offers a large selection of recipes for elegant sweets,biscuits,jams,liqueursandpreserves.Theseappealingrecipesincludecompotegoldenpippins(p.180),pis-tachiocream(p.145),pineappleicecream(127),andmasapan (sic)biscuits (p.18).Unusual andelaborate

recipesincludeParmesancheeseicecream(p.137)and“Grapes inBunches,Dried”(p.213).Theworkaimstoprovideallthatthereaderneedstoknowinorderto create professional confectionery, and even to setuptheirownbusiness.Socomprehensive,infact,isthisworkthattheprefaceclaims:“theauthorwasof-feredOneThousandPoundstowithdrawitfromthepublic, andhehasnohesitation in saying, fromhisownknowledge andobservation, thatmanypersonshavecommencedtradeasconfectioners,withnootherassistancethanthisbook.”Theartofmakingconfec-tionery was extremely marketable; Day notes that ifthe confectioner was successful “he could commandnot only impressive financial rewards but a respect-able social standing usually denied to other foodprofessionals”.

EditedbytheParisianconfectionerJ.J.Machet,sug-gestingtheinteractionbetweentheFrenchandEnglishartsofconfectioneryinthisperiod.Theprefacenotesthiseditonis“enrichedwithseveralnewarticles,par-ticulaarlyundertheheadof“NaturalCreams.”.Theseadditions,withothersofHome-madeWines,&c.havenecessarilyincreasedthepriceofthebook;butwhenitisconsidered,thatthereceiptsarenotonlyselectbutoriginal, theadvance isbut trifling to thepurchaser.Theauthorisproudtosay,theworkcontainsreceiptswhichcannotbeobtainedfromanyothersource;andnotwithstandingseveralattemptstosupersedeit,theyhaveallprovedfruitless.Theeightheditionisaflatter-ingtestimonyofpublicapprobation.”

Thenewrecipesforhome-madewinesweresuppliedbyMrs.Smith,authorofThe Female Economist (1810).

Nutthasclearlytakenintheimportanceofelegance,refinementandluxuryinproducingsuccessfulconfec-tionery,qualitiesclassicallyessentialtoFrenchsweetsanddesserts.

Provenance:Bookplateremoved.19th-centurypencilsignatureontheflyleaf:“E.Clark”.

[37] PEGGE (Samuel) The Forme of Cury A Roll of Ancient English Cookery, Compiled, about A.D.1390, by the Master-Cooks of King Richard II, presented afterwards toQueenElizabethbyEdwardLordStaffordandnowinthepossessionofGustavusBrander, Esq. Illustrated with notes and a copiousindex,orglossary.Amanuscriptoftheeditor,ofthesameageandsubject,issubjoined.ByanAntiquary.

FirstEdition.8vo.iv[+iv],xxxvi,161,[1(blank)161-188, [2 (advertisements) ]pp., engraved facsimile oftherecipeforMawmeneeatE3.textlightlybrowned.

Early 19th-century half russia with marbled boards,giltspine(endleaveswatermarked1804)(rubbed,up-perjointcrackedandwithabouttwoinchesofinsectdamagenearthefoot).

London:printedbyJ.Nichols,1780

Maclean,STC of Household and Cookery Books,p.112.

ESTCidentifiesthreeissues-thefirstendsatp.161andhasthesameimprintasabove(ESTCrecords4copies);thesecondhasasupplementattheend(Y2,Z-Bb4) comprising a recipe for ypocrasse (p. 161),addenda(p.162),rollsofprovisionsbelongingtotheNevilefamily(pp.163-88)andhasthesameimprintasabove;thethirdhasanewtitlewith“printertotheSocietyofAntiquaries”addedafterNichols’snameinthe imprint and the dedication signed with Pegge’snameinfullratherthan“TheEditor”andhasa leafofadvertisementsaddedattheend.Thiscopyisofthethirdissuebutalsohasthesecondissuetitleanddedi-cationleavesboundatthefront.SomecopieshaveaportraitofPeggedated1785asafrontispiece.

Perhaps the most famous English historical culi-nary text.

The Forme of Cury offers one of the most roundedinsights into Medieval cookery, and wider culturalpractice,availabletothemodernscholar.Thoughtherecipes initially appear far removed from those of amoderncookbook,bothbecauseoftheirformatandtheir language, their content conveys a striking im-mediacy.The recipes range from the curious - “Fur-mente with Porpoys” (a kind of almond porridgedressedwith slicedporpoise) (p.39) to the curiouslyfamiliar-“VerdeSawse”(p.65),whichbearsstrikingresemblancetoasalsaverde.Suchrecipesraiseques-tionsoffoodavailability,andofthekindsofculturalexchange occurring in England during this period.Peggeshowsaninterestintheseissues,attemptingtodefinethetermsthathehasencounteredinhisstudyofthemanuscript:inhisprefaceheconsiderstheword“Pynes”,whichhehascomeacross frequently inthemanuscript: “There is some difficulty in enucleatingthemeaningofthisword,thoughitoccurssooften”(xxv)Hesuggeststhatthismayrefertomulberriesbe-causeoftheirshape,orcouldsimplyrefertopinenuts.Peggedatesthemanuscripttoaround1390.

The manuscript provides a large selection of recipeswhichsuggestnotonly thekindsof ingredients thatwerereadilyavailableinthisperiod,butalsothewaysin which the upper classes ate. For example, tworecipesforpies(“Chewet”)arepresentedside-by-side,one for a “Flesshe Day”, and the other for a “Fyssh

Day”(p.83),markingoutChristianeatingpractices.Thefirst isaporkpiewithginger,thesecond,afishpiewith turbot,haddock, codandhake,boiled andfinelyminced,withraisins.Anotherinterestingrecipeisthe“EgurdouceofFysshe”(p.63),aprecursortothemodern sweet and sour flavours that we think of astypicallyMediterranean.Theauthorrecommendsthatthecookuseloach,tenchorsole.Weareinstructedto“smytehemonpecys”,anddresswithasyrupmadefromvinegar,wineandsugar,spikedwithwholespic-es,powderedspicesandsalt.Suchrecipessawarevivalinthe20thcentury.ItisinterestingthatPeggeshoulddismiss the dishes in the work as unpalatable, sincetheyhaveundergoneanumberofrevivalsintheinter-veningcenturies.ThisdishinparticularisreminiscentofGeorgePerrySmith’ssalmoninpastry,spicedwithginger, and baked in pastry with chopped almondsand pastry. More recently, the elaborate aesthetic ofMedievalcookeryandthecombinationofsweetandsavouryflavours - inparticular,meatand fruit -hasservedasaninspirationtoHestonBlumenthal.

Thework’sdedicationtoGustavusBrander(1719/20-1787)shedssomelightontheoriginsofthiseditionof themedievalwork.Amerchant and antiquaryofSwedish descent, Brander set about forming a col-lectionofmanuscripts, spending the fortunehehadinheritedfromhisuncleJohnSpicker.Itwasfromoneof these manuscripts that Brander allowed Pegge toproduceourwork.

Provenance:Inknoteatthefootofp.ioftheprefacewheretheeditornotesthateatinganimalswasnotper-mittedtomanbeforethefloodwhen“itwasindulgedtous,byanenlargementofourcharter”theannotatoralters“indulged”to“butthatwewerecondemnedtoeatthis,andcursedwithanewappetitethatdegradedussofarastomakeourstomachsthetombsofdeadandputridanimalmatteraspunishment”.19th-cen-turysignatureontheflyleaf“MaryCox”andaprintedcuttingwiththemenuforafeastheldatNorwichin1561.

[38] PERCY (Rev.Thomas),editor. The Regula-tions and Establishment of the Household of Henry Algernon Percy, the Fifth Earl of Northumberland,athisCastlesofWresill andLekinfield inYorkshire.BegunannodominiM.D.XII

8vo. xxvi, [1], xi, 464, [2], pp. Slightly foxed, mar-ginofgatheringKstained,gatheringBbparticularlyspotted.Originalgreencloth(rebacked,originalspinewithprintedlabellaid-down;newendleaves).

London:WilliamPickering,1827

ReprintofafascinatingTudormanuscriptdescribingthehouseholdactivitiesofthePercyfamilyatWressleandLeconfieldcastles.

The Regulations and Establishment of the Household of Henry Algernon Percyrecordseverypartofthehouse-hold’sconsumption,itstransactionsanditsdaytodayroutinethroughouttheyear.Theworkcentresaroundthe two family seats,Wressle and Leconfield, in theEastRidingofYorkshire.Firstpublishedprivatelyin1770,theworkwaseditedbyThomasPercy,tutortotheNorthumberlandchildren,writerandlaterBishopofDromore.AsPercypointsoutinhis introductionthishouseholdrecordalsooffersagreatdealofvalu-ablehistorical and social information that can allowustogainabetterunderstandingofthisperiod.Percyclaims:“Theminuteattentionpaidtoevernthemostinconsiderable article of domestic expence (sic), andthe formal stated orders established with regard tomanyparticularswhichappeartousextremelytrivial,are very remote fromourmodern ideas andpresentmanners.”

The Regulations and Establishment of the Household of Henry Algernon Percy offers a picture of a strictlyregulatedhouse,andgivesinformationonthevariousranksoftheservers,theirwages,andtheirdailylives.

Attemptingtoaccountfortheexistenceofsuchade-tailedhouseholdrecord,ThomasPercywrites,“Itmaybeconsidered...thatanoblemaninthedarkages,whenretired tohis castle,hadneitherbooks,nornewspa-pers,norliterarycorrespondence,norvisits,norcardstofilluphisleisure,”andtherefore“theGovernmentofhisHousholdwouldthereforebelikelyenoughtoengagehisattention...”(x)TheaccountsofdaytolifeinWressleandLeconfieldcastlesareparticularlyvalu-ablesincethestructuresthemselvesnolongerremainin their original state; in the case of Leconfield, thecastlewas demolished around 1608. (EnglishHerit-age National Monuments Record). The content ofthisworkhadasignificanteffectonthereputationofHenryAlgernonPercy(1478-1527)atthetimeitwasfirstpublished.Hoylenotesthat“thesobriquetoftheMagnificentwhichissometimesappliedtohimdatesonly from the beginning of the nineteenth centuryandprobablyarisesfromtheimpressioncreatedbythepublicationofhishouseholdbook...”(ODNB).

Provenance: Pencil note on the flyleaf “This volumeexcessivelyscarce/FromDrLaing’sLiby”.

[39] [PERKINS (John) & BUCHAN (William).The Ladies’ Library: or, Encyclopedia of Female Knowledge, in every branch of Domestic Economy:comprehending,inalphabeticalarrangementdistinctTreatisesoneverypracticalsubject,necessaryforServ-ants and Mistresses of Families. I. A most extensiveSystemofCookery.II.AcompleteBodyofDomesticMedicine.III.ThePreservationofBeauty,andPreven-tionofDeformity.Inwhichisincludedavastfundofmiscellaneousinformation,ofthehighestimportranceinDomesticLife.

FirstEdition.2 vols. 8vo in4s. 1, xv, 407, [1]; [2],512,[1],pp.Engravedportrait(foxed)ofJohnPerkinsand2platesshowing“Asystemofcarving”invol.1;engraved portrait (lightly foxed) ofWilliam Buchanand 2 folding plates (dusty at the fore-edges) show-ingfirstandsecondcoursesinvol.2.Title-pagesandfinal leaves lightly browned, some minor spotting.Contemporary sheep (functionally rebacked, cornersrepaired,newendleaves;coversscuffed).

London:PrintedforJ.Ridgway,1790

ESTCrecordstwocopiesattheBritishlibraryandacopyattheNationalLibraryofScotlandinUKandcopies at Case Western Reserve, McMaster, NYPL,LibraryofCongressandUniversityofPennsylvaniainNorthAmerica.Reissuedin1796asEvery Woman her own Housekeeper; or, the Ladies’ Library. ... The Fourth Edition, with additions (JohnsHopkins,MariettaCol-legeOhio,RadcliffeCollegeSchlesingerMass[=Har-vard]&McMasteronly).MacleanaddsacopyofthereissueattheNewYorkAcademyofMedicine.

An anthology of household and medical advice for the use of women, providing an insight into the tasks that defined their role at the end of the 18th century.

Althoughcompiledbyunknowneditors,forthecook-eryrecipestheymade“ampleuse”ofthemanuscriptsofthelateJohnPerkins,whoisdescribedonhispor-traitas“manyyearscookintheFamiliesofEarlGowerandLordMelbourn(sic)”butisotherwiseunknown,andthemedicaladvicederivesfromthedistinguisheddoctorandauthorofpopularworksonmedicineWil-liamBuchan.

ThetwovolumesofThe Ladies’ Libraryofferadiverseselectionofadviceoncookery,cleanliness,andbring-ing up children in good health to young ladies and“toeveryclassofFemaleServants...thehouse-keeper,thecook,thehouse-maid,thechamber-maid,andthenursery-maid”.Itattemptstopromotehealththrough-outthefamily,emphasisingtheroleofthemotherin

promoting“content,satisfactionandutilitythrough-out their families” (Preface). Bringing together culi-narymaterial from“almost thirtydifferent authors”,thestyleofcookeryofferedintheworkclaimstotendtowards“frugalityandelegance”.Alsoaddressedisthesubjectofawoman’spersonalappearanceandtheworkaimstodefineasuitablemidpointbetweenvanityandacompletelackofconcernforpersonalappearance;itcondemnsthe“perniciouspractice”(p.173)ofpaint-ingthefacewithheavymake-up,insteadattemptingtopromoteaclearcomplexionandattractiveappearancethroughgoodhealth.The Ladies’ Librarymakesanat-temptatprovidingfemalereaderswithausefulgeneralreferencepointforhealthproblems,notingwithcon-cern that women can be too embarrassed to ask formedical advice: “The Ladies, in particular, are oftenpreventedfromreceivingthebenefitofmedicaladvicebyanunwillingness,theoffspringofdelicacy,toapplyforit.”(viii)Theworkalsoincludesdetailedadviceonlooking after children from birth, with direction ondiet,exercise,andsleepingconditions.(pp.234-257).

Despiteitsclaimtoaimfor“frugality”intherecipesthatitprovides,The Ladies’ Libraryalsoincludesaselec-tionofinterestingandelaboratedishes.Theseincludeaselectionof“OrnamentalDishes”(pp.174-178)suchasafishpondmadeofflummerywithjellyfishsetintoit,and“Moonshine”,aflummeryhalf-moonandstarssurroundedbylemoncreamandgarnishedwithflow-ers.Alsoofferedisanentryonthenotoriousdelicacyortolans,asmallwildbirdpopularinFrance.The La-dies’ Librarysuggeststhat,havingimportedherorto-lans,theladyofthehouseshouldfeedthem“tilltheybecomea lumpof fat”, beforekilling them (p.173).ThisisavariationonthetraditionalFrenchmethodofdrowningthebirdinstrongvinegarorArmagnac.Thebirdisthenplucked,roastedandeatenwhole,includ-ing thebones, traditionally inFrancewith anapkinoverone’shead.

Themedicalcontentoftheworkgivestheimpressionofaparticularlysolidgroundinginscientificfact.Vol.2hasafrontispieceportraitofWilliamBuchan,M.D.,authoroftheextremelysuccessful1769workDomestic Medicine, or, the Family Physician.TheODNBnotesthat before the twentieth century, “no simplehealthguideenjoyedasmuchpopularity”asthiswork.

[40] RUNDELL (Maria Eliza). A New System of Domestic Cookery ; formed upon Principles of Economy, and adapted to the use of Private Fami-lies. By a Lady. Second Edition, connsiderably en-largedandimproved;andtowhicharenowaddedten

illustrativeplates.

Second edition. 8vo, lvii, 32, 32*-33*, 33-486, pp.,frontispiece&9engravedplates.Foxed.Contempo-rarymarbledboards(rebackedincalf,newendleaves)

London:forJohnMurray;J.Harding;andArch.Con-stableandCo.,1807

An important early 19th century household manual with the first printed recipe for bubble and squeak.

Firstpublishedin1806,The New System of Domestic Cookery instructs thehousewife inproviding forherfamily.Theintroductiontotheworktreatshouseholdmanagementasalostart.Rundellstates:“Therewasa timewhen ladiesknewnothingbeyond their ownfamilyconcerns;butinthepresentdaytherearemanywho know nothing about them” (ii). To this end,Rundellprovidesalargeselectionofusefulrecipesaswell as advice on marketing, advice for cooking forinvalids, for the poor, and instructions for servants.Therecipesincludedintheworkarerelativelysimple,thoughRundellshowsanawarenessofelegantpresen-tationandattemptstomakethemostofheringredi-ents.She recommends practising carving to avoid anunsophisticatedresult,warningthataninexperiencedcarvercancausethedishtoleavethetable“withtheappearance of having been gnawed by dogs” (xxiii).Theworkcontainsthefirstknownprintedrecipeforbubble and squeak: “Boil, chop and fry it [presum-ablypotato],witha littlepepperandsalt, andsomecabbage;andlayonitslicesofunderdonebeef,lightlyfried.”(p.61).

Rundell regards the household as the ideal environ-mentforayoungwoman,anditsskillstheidealcom-plement to the female character.Thepreface claims:“Thislittleworkwouldhavebeenatreasuretoherselfwhenshefirstsetoutinlife,andshethereforehopesitmayproveusefultoothers.”

Rundell’sworkbeganasacollectionofhouseholdad-viceandrecipesforherdaughterswhohadbeensentto livewith an aunt anduncle inLondon.She senther manuscript to the publisher John Murray, whopublishedtheworkin1806underthetitleDomestic Cookery.Itprovedextremelypopular,andin1841its65theditionwaspublishedanditwaswidelyreprintedinAmerica.Theworkproved seminal, asLeenotes:“As the earliest manual of household managementwithanypretensions tocompleteness, itcalled forthmanyimitations.”(ODNB)

[41] SALMON (William). The Family Diction-ary: or Houshold Companion.

Containing,I.CookeryindressingFlesh,Fowl,Fish,Herbs,Roots,MakingSawces,&c.II.Pastry[...].III.Confects[...].IV.PotableLiquors[...].V.Perfuming[...]. VI. Husbandry [...]. VII. Preparations galenickand chymick relating to Physick and Chirurgery, asCordial Waters, Spirits,Tinctures, Elizirs, [...] fittedforCuringmostDiseases incident toMen,Women,andChilden.TheFourthEdition,withaboveelevenhundred additions, interpsersed through the WholeWork.

FourthEdition.8vo.[14(of16,lackingthehalf-title)],560pp.Lightlybrowned,dustyinplaces,someworm-inginthelowerinnermargin(occasionallytouchingthetext)atthefront.Contemproarycalf coversgiltdoubleruled,spinedividedintosixcompartmentsandgilt double ruled, with gilt lettering (rebacked, newendleaves;coverswornandwithsomeinsectdamage)

London:forH.Rhodes,1710

Maclean,STC of Household and Cookery Books,p.127.

ESTC lists copies at the British Library, WorcesterCollege,OxfordUniversity,TheNationalTrust; andtheBrothertonLibraryintheUK,andtwelvecopiesinUSA[butnotPrinceton].

A household encyclopaedia offering advice on cooking, brewing, cleaning and treating common illnesses, by the prolific scientific author William Salmon.

First published in 1695, The Family Dictionary in-structsthereaderintacklingallthetasksoftheearly18th century household, offering an extensive selec-tionofentriesonsubjectsfrom“CalvesHeadPyewithOysters”(p.62)to“SoreNose”(p.469)Salmonclaimsthathehasextracted“allofthechoiceMatteroutofagreatNumberofthoseOrdinaryPamphlets”.Salmonalso states that the entries are extremely accessible:“TheExpessions(sic)areplain,theLanguageeasy,theDirections obvious, and the Method direct, for theInstruction of the Persons to whom it is intended.”Salmonclaimsthatnotonlyareotherworksinaccu-rate,buteventheadviceofotherdoctorsisunreliable,tothepointofmortaldanger.

Salmon’s culinary style typifies middle class Englishcookery during this period. A range of beef, pork,game, poultry and fish recipes are offered, with aselection of pies and made dishes including an “Ar-tichoakPye” (p.406).SweetdishesareelaborateanddemonstrateflairtypicalofFrench-influencedcookery

“Quaking Gelly of Currants” (p.411) and “Snow”(p.465), a sweet-flavoured whipped cream and eggwhitefroth.Toservethefrothisdrapedoverabranchofrosemarystuckintoawhiteloafwiththecrustcutoff,intendedtogivetheimpressionofasnowscene.

Salmon(1664-1713)wroteonawiderangeofmedicalandscientificsubjects,thoughthereis littleevidencethatSalmonmadeanyoriginalcontributiontomedi-calknowledge,hewasclearlyextremelyproficientinpresentingmedicalknowledgeinanappealingwaytothewiderpublic.

[42] SMITH (Eliza). The Compleat Housewife: or, Accomplish’d Gentlewoman’s Companion. Be-ingACollectionofUpwardsofSixHundredof themostApprovedReceiptsinCookery[...]withCopperPlates,CuriouslyEngraven, for theRegularDisposi-tionorPlacingoftheVariousDishesandCourses[...]andalsoBillsofFareforEveryMonthintheYear[...]TheFifteenthEdition,withadditions.

“Fifteenth Edition”. 8vo. [16], 396, xii, pp. Slightlyfoxed. Engraved frontispiece showing a countrykitchenwith servantspreparing foodand theirmas-tersdininginthebackground,andwithafurtherfourfoldingengravedplatesshowingsuggesteddishesfor:1.Winterfirstcourseandsecondcourse,2.Summerfirstcourseandsecondcourse,3.Firstcourseandsec-ondcourse,4.Asupperfirstcourse.Thirdandfourthplatesbrownedatupperedgesandwithastainatthemargin, small contemporary ink annotations to B4and B6 (not affecting the text), small closed tear toB8,smallmarktoE5toF2(affectingafewlettersoftext),smallstaintoH,gatheringHespeciallyfoxed,I4marked(affectingsometext),marktomarginofK8,marginofM7spotted(affectingafewlettersoftext),R5-R7(affectingsometext).Modernhalfcalf.

London: Printed for R. Ware, S. Birt,T. Longman,[etc.],1753

Maclean,STC of Household and Cookery Booksp.134.ESTCrecordscopiesattheBritishLibrary,Bodley&Brotherton Library in UK;W. A. Clark, Cornell &MichiganStateinUSA.

An“outstandingexampleofthe[householdmanual]genre,rivallingHannahGlasseandElizabethRaffaldincontentandcontemporarypopularity.”(ODNB)

The Compleat Housewife: or, Accomplish’d Gentlewoman’s Companionprovides a completeguide to cookeryofthisperiod,drawnfromElizaSmith’spracticalexperi-ence,perhapslearnedatBeaulieu(ODNB),alongside

basicmedicaladvice.Inherpreface,Smithdescribesherworkastheproductof“30yearsofdiligentAppli-cation”.Theworkcontainstheconventionalselectionofbillsoffareforeachmonth,andmarketingadvice,alongside its culinary content. Smith herself admitsthatthegenreofcookerywritinghasbecomesaturatedinthisperiodinherpreface,claimingthatthereisnoneed for any introduction to the universal practicesof cookingandeating.Cookery, “being sonecessaryfortheGratificationoftheAppetite,standsinneedofnoEncomiumstoallurepersonstothepracticeofit,sincetherearebutfewnow-a-dayswholovenotgoodeatinganddrinking.”Interestingly,shechoosesinsteadtodevoteherintroductiontoahistoryofcookery,pro-vidinganengaginginsightintotheunderstandingofcookeryasculturalpracticeinthe18thcentury.Shebelieves that cookeryhas reached its zenithwith thestyleofcookingcontainedinherwork,andclaimsthatanyfurtherembellishmentsareovercomplicatingmat-ters:“Whatsoevernew,upstart,outofthewayMessessomeHumourists(sic)haveinvented,suchasstuffingaroastedLegofMuttonwithpickledHerring,andthelike,areonlytheSalliesofacapriciousAppetite,anddebauchingratherthanimprovingtheArtitself.”

FirstpublishedfourorfiveyearsbeforeSmith’sdeathin1732,itwasthefirstcookerybooktobepublishedinAmerica,in1742.

Provenance: 18th-century armorial bookplate ofChristopherRidout(d.1790),anarmysurgeon(withan ecorchémale figure standing beside the coat-of-arms).AwoodcutoftheBritishroyalarmshasbeenpastedinsidethebackcover.

[43] TEA AUCTION. East India Company’s reserve of Hyson & Souchong Tea. Second March Sale 1785. Your most humble Servants, BenjaminWilliams andCo.WilliamSandell, JohnLayton,R.andW. Pincback, James Arthur, John Garrat. [Sub-title:Teaforsale,attheEast-IndiaHouse,Chests,&c.withallFaults,byseveralShipsinTime,inLots,toadv.1d.TobeseenintheWarehousesFrenchurchstreet.

8vo. 821-870pp. Original blue paper wrappers, thefrontprintedwiththetitleasabove.

[London:1785]

Apparently unrecorded in any issue. The lots aresoldbyship-4cargoesofHysonteain406chestsand18cargoesofSouchongteain3254chests.

Priced and named with buyers in manuscript. The

paginationofthesaleswaspresumablycontinuousforayearsothatboundvolumescouldbecompleted.

1785wasayearofgreatimportancefortheBritishteatrade. This catalogue describes the East India Com-pany’s stocks of hyson and souchong tea offered forsaleatthesecondoffouryearlysales.The1785saleswerethefirsttofollowtheCommutationActof1784,issued to disincentivise smuggling and to regulatethequalityoftea.Theteataxwasraisedseveraltimesduring theprecedingdecade in order tofinance theAnglo-American War of Independence. The tax onteareached119%atitspeakin1784;suchhighratesmeantthatteasmugglingwasrife.Thetradewasalsosubjecttoproblemswithteaquality,rangingfromthesupplyofchestspackedwithgoodqualitytealeavesatthetopbutcoveringabodyofinferiorleavesbeneath,to the supply of composite productions includingleaves fromotherplants. Ithasbeen estimated that,duringthe1770s,morethan7millionlbofteaweresmuggled into England every year, compared withsome5million5lbofdeclaredtea.FollowingPitttheYounger’selectionasPrimeMinister,in1784thetaxonteawasreducedfrom119%to12.5%.(MairandHoh,p.185)

During this period, hyson and souchong were con-sideredthepremiergreenandblackteasrespectively.(Mui&Hoh-Cheung)Thecatalogueprovidesaglos-saryof termsconventionallyusedfor teadescription

bybrokers,whowouldsampleandanalysetheteabe-foreitssale.Thetermscarrysymbolswhichareprintednext to each lot, describing their quality. The termsrange from “musty and mouldy” to “superfine”, anindicationofthesignificantvariationinqualityofteaduringthisperiod.Thecataloguealsoliststhenamesoftheshipscarryingeachvarietyoftea,animportantdetail, since supercargoeswere individually responsi-blefortheteathattheycarried,andoversawthepack-ingoftheircargo.Eachshipwouldbeheldfinanciallyresponsible for their cargo, and damages would bedeductedfromthecommissionofsupercargoesunlesscostscouldbereclaimedfromtheirChinesesuppliers.(Mui&Hoh-Cheung).

Provenance:Inkinitials“J//Wms1785”onthefrontwrapperandsignature“J.Williamsontheback.Pencilnoteby JamesStevensCox identifying“JosephWil-liams12GeorgeSt.MinoriesLondon”.

Literature:Mui(Lorna&Hoh-Cheung),“TheCom-mutationActandtheTeaTradeinBritain1784-1793”,Economic History Review,16/2 (1963),pp.234-253;Mair(VictorH.)&Hoh(Erling),The True History of Tea (2009).

[44] TEGETMEIER (Wiliam Bernhardt). The Scholar’s Handbook of Household Management and Cookery. CompiledattheRequestoftheSchoolBoardforLondonwithanAppendixorRecipesusedbytheTeachersoftheNationalSchoolofCookery.ByW.B.Tegetmeier,Authorof“AManualofDomesticEconomy”.

8vo. 132pp; seven engraved illustrations. Endpapersand title page faded; pp. 79-84 creased, otherwise agoodcleancopy.Greenboardswithembossedframe

andtitletocover,titletospineandframeandadver-tisementonbackcover(coversjustslightlyscuffedandwithaverysmallinkstaintothespine).

London:MacmillanandCo.,1876

Educational manual on basic cookery and its sci-ence by the distinguished naturalist and journalist William Bernhardt Tegetmeier.

Thisengagingworkseekstostandardisetheprovisionofculinaryeducationinschoolsandtoprovidesimple,clearinstructioninboththescienceandthepracticalskillsofcookery.Tegetmeier’sprefacedisplaysagenu-inecarefor,andempathywith,thelotofgirlsinthisperiod.Hehasaclearappreciationofthevalueofaneducationinsecuringtheresourcesneededtogenerateaconsistentincome.TheprefacenotesthatareportbyHerMajesty’scommissionersfoundthat:“Ongoingto service after such a course, a girlwouldprobablyget1l.morewagesforthefirsthalf-year’sservice.”The Schola’s Handbook of Household Management seeks tosetdownthecontentofthecourseclearly,providingareferencework“whichcanbeadvantageouslyplacedinthehandsofthepupilsinordinaryschools.”TheworkbeginsinafashionstrikinglyreminiscentofMcGee’sOn Food and Cooking,withthetopic“Milk”.“Seedsgrow,”writesTegetmeier,“plantsandanimalslive;butmilkisexpresslyformedforfood,andforfoodalone.”(p.11)

This book represents the shift from the teaching ofhouseholdknowledgefromthedomesticrealm.Whathadbeentaughtasamatterofcourseamongstfami-lieswasgraduallybeingassimilated into the tasksofstateeducation,anditsvalueasatoolforgeneratingincomewasbeingrecognized.

WITH UNRECORDED BOOK-LABELS FOR MARGARET HARRINGTON 1694

[45] WOOLLEY (Hannah) The Queen-like Closet, or Rich Cabinet: Stored with all Manner of Rare Receipts for Preserving, Candying and Cook-ery. VeryPleasantandBeneficialtoallIngeniousPer-sonsoftheFemaleSex.TowhichisaddedaSupple-ment,presentedtoallIngeniousPersonsoftheFemaleSex.Towhichisadded,ASupplement,presentedtoallIngeniousLadies,andGentlewomen.ByHannahWolley. The Third Edition. [- A Supplement to theQueen-likeCloset;oralittleofeverything.PresentedtoallIngeniousLadies,andGentlewomen.ByHannaWoolley.]

Third edition. 12mo. Imperfect: Lacking leaves A1

(License leaf ),A2 (engraved frontispiece),A5-6 (ad-dress“ToallLadies”),B9(pp.17-18),C4-5(pp.30-34),E4-5(pp.79-82),G2(pp.123-124),G10(pp.139-140), H1 (pp. 145-146), H10 (pp. 163-165),Q2-11(pp.339-344;indextopart1[12pp],1stleafofindextopart2[2pp]);[2]B10-11,9pp.19-22);C5-8,E6-8,G5-8, [2]C4-9 slightly shorterandperhapsinserted fromanothercopybutatanearlydate (C8loose and frayed at the edges). With the postscriptandadvertisementleafattheendofpart1.Generallygrubbyandstained;thebook-blockbrokeninseveralplacesandleavesandsectionscomingloose;sectionofC4burnedawayaffecting12lines.

London:forRichardLowndes,1675

WingW3284(W3287-theSupplement).ESTClistscopiesattheBritishLibrary,EdinbughUniversityLi-brary,GlasgowUniversityLibrary,BrothertonLibraryinUK;W.A.Clark,Folger,MichiganStateUniversity[2copies].

An important 17th century work by Hannah Wol-ley, “one of the first English women to make a living as an author.” The work contains exceptional auto-biographical detail, describing Woolley’s medical experience (ODNB). With a pair of unique printed book-labels dated 1694 for a female owner.

Thisinterestingandattractivelypresentedworkoffersa remarkably completepictureof17thcentury foodculture from kitchen to table, as well as content onetiquette.Woolleyoffers recipes,billsof fare fordif-ferentseasons,andadvicetocooksandserversonhowtopresentthemselves.Thestyleofcookeryofferedbythe work is relatively complex; meats are frequentlystuffedandrecipesoftensuggestpicklingorpreserv-ing.Forexample,Wolleyoffersarecipeforstuffedveal“toeatlikesturgeon”(p.169),andinstructions“torostawholePigwithouttheskin,withaPudding inhisBelly”(p.281).Unusualrecipes includea sweetandsour “lettucepie”using “cabbage lettuce”,withbut-ter,marrow,raisins,dates,mace,nutmeg,verjuiceandsugar.Wolleydemonstratesanuancedunderstandingof her raw ingredients, offering separate recipes forboilingwildandtameducks(p.259).

This work is particularly notable for its detailed in-structionson the technicalitiesof thekitchen,offer-ing advice to cooks and servers onpresentation andcomportment.(p.332-338)Wolleyprovidesguidanceonwhatmakesagoodserverto“all...Men-Servants,orMaid-Servantswhocommonlyattendsuchtables”.Shesuggests:“TheymustbeneatandcleanlyintheirHabit,andkeeptheirheadscleankembed...”(p.337)

As for cooks, Wolley advises that they ought to be“obliging to all persons, kind to those under them,andwillingtoinformthem,quietintheiroffice,norswearingnorcursing...”(p.333)Thisisanunusualin-clusionforhouseholdmanualfromthisperiod.

Furtherremarkablecontentisprovidedinthesecondsectionofthework,asupplementto“TheQueen-LikeCloset”. In this section,Wolley gives a detailed ac-countofherexperienceintreatingmedicaldisorders.Shebeganlearningabouttreatingmedicalconditionsathome:“TakenoticethatmyMotherandmyElderSisters were very well skilled in Physick and Chiru-rgery”(p.10).Shewasthenput intotheserviceofanoblewoman.Wolleydescribeshowshewassent toawomanwhowassufferinginadifficultlabourandsubjecttoconvulsivefits,andmanagedtoeffectasafedelivery.Shethengivesmanyfurtherexamplesofhersuccessinmedicalwork.Shefinallyrecommendssuchknowledge to the reader with the claim that: “It is

50BerkeleySquareLondonW1J5BA

02074937160www.maggs.com

altogetherasnecessarythatyoushouldknowhowtokeepyourBodiesinhealth,topreserveyourEye-SightandyourLimbs,as it is toFeedorCloathyourself ”Thissectionalsoprovidesadviceonthecorrect toneforletters,offeringexamplesofbothwellandpoorlyexecutedletterstoaselectionofaddressees.

Provenance:Withapairofprintedbook-labels[80x145mm]fillingtheinsideofboththefrontandbackcoversprintedwiththename“MargaretHarrington”andthedate“October,5th.1694”printedinletterpresswithinaframeofwoodcutflowersemergingfromtwovaseswithacrownandcrossedsceptresatthecentretop.NotrecordedinBrianNorthLee’sEarly Printed Book Labels(1976).Manyofthesewereprintedmoreaskeepsakesthanasbookplates-sometimes,asattheOxfordUniversityPress,avisitorwouldsetthetypeof theirownnamewithintheblockandprinta fewimpressionsthemselves-andagoodpercentageofsur-vivingexampleswereproducedforwomen.