here’s how to ensure big appetites get their fill · at tremont 647, in boston, chef-owner andy...
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36
F
OO
D F
AN
AT
ICS
|
SP
RIN
G 2
016
foo
dfa
na
tic
s.c
om
|
FO
OD
FA
NA
TIC
S
37
HER
E’S
HO
W
TO E
NS
UR
E B
IG
AP
PET
ITES
G
ET T
HEI
R F
ILL
Th
ey’r
e th
e sa
me
din
ers
wh
o lo
ok
ask
ance
at
dai
nty
po
rtio
ns
of p
rote
in, w
ho
ask
ab
ou
t th
e si
ze o
f a s
pec
ial b
efo
re p
laci
ng
an o
rder
, wh
o
emb
race
the
bre
adb
aske
t wit
h g
ust
o.It
’s
easy
to
as
sum
e th
at
insa
tiab
le
din
ers
on
ly f
req
uen
t b
u$
ets
and
all
-yo
u-
can
-eat
dea
ls, b
ut
that
th
ink
ing
wo
uld
be
o$
bas
e.
“Co
nsu
mer
s to
day
ar
e lo
ok
ing
for
a va
riet
y o
f o
pti
on
s o
n m
enu
s, s
o t
hey
can
ge
t ex
actl
y w
hat
th
ey w
ant
dep
end
ing
on
th
e ea
tin
g o
ccas
ion
an
d c
ust
om
ize
thei
r m
eal,”
say
s A
nn
ika
Ste
nss
on
, d
irec
tor
of
rese
arch
co
mm
un
icat
ion
s at
th
e N
atio
nal
R
esta
ura
nt
Ass
oci
atio
n.
Fo
r ev
ery
hea
lth
-co
nsc
iou
s d
iner
wh
o’s
h
op
ing
for
a h
alf-
po
rtio
n,
ther
e’s
a b
igge
r ap
pet
ite
that
do
esn
’t m
ind
pay
ing
a p
rem
ium
to
fill
up.
To
bal
ance
hea
rty
app
etit
es a
gain
st
the
bot
tom
lin
e: T
hin
k b
eyo
nd
on
e-si
ze-fi
ts-
all
po
rtio
ns,
an
d d
eplo
y si
mp
le s
trat
egie
s th
at h
elp
hu
ngr
y d
iner
s ge
t tru
ly fe
d.
“Wh
at w
e’re
see
ing
mo
re o
f is
sta
gger
ed
po
rtio
ns
on
men
us
nat
ion
wid
e,”
says
Mar
y C
hap
man
, fo
rmer
ly o
f fo
od
res
earc
h fi
rm
Tec
hn
om
ic I
nc.
E
igh
ty-s
ix
per
cen
t o
f d
iner
s in
a
Tec
hn
om
ic s
urv
ey s
aid
they
’d b
e m
ore
lik
ely
to v
isit
a r
esta
ura
nt
wit
h s
ub
stan
tial
an
d
fill
ing
po
rtio
ns.
Yet
nea
rly
as m
any
din
ers
rate
d s
tagg
ered
po
rtio
ns
as a
n i
mp
ort
ant
valu
e-d
rive
n
con
sid
erat
ion
ov
er
larg
e p
ort
ion
s. Y
ou
nge
r d
iner
s d
ig t
he
app
eal
of
crea
tin
g a
cust
om
ized
mea
l: 6
5 p
erce
nt
of
18-
to 3
4-y
ear-
old
s ar
e w
illi
ng
to p
ay m
ore
fo
r la
rge
po
rtio
ns,
an
d 4
6 p
erce
nt a
re w
illi
ng
to s
plu
rge
for
mo
re p
rote
in.
Th
is m
ean
s sa
tisf
yin
g th
ese
hu
ngr
y d
iner
s ca
n a
lso
feed
yo
ur
bot
tom
lin
e.“S
omeo
ne
shou
ld b
e ab
le t
o co
me
in,
get
fed
an
d le
ave
full,
” sa
ys K
elly
Wh
itak
er, c
hef
-ow
ner
of
D
enve
r-b
ased
re
stau
ran
ts
Car
t-D
rive
r an
d B
asta
. “Y
ou d
on’t
wan
t a
gues
t p
ayin
g a
$150
bil
l an
d t
hen
ask
ing
wh
ere
the
clos
est I
n-N
-Ou
t Bu
rger
is fo
r th
e d
rive
hom
e.”
RAV
ENO
US
.
HEA
RT
Y.
HOWEVER YOU DESCRIBE THEM,
DINERS WITH BIG APPETITES ARRIVE AT
RESTAURANTS LOOKING TO BE FED—A LOT.
BY KATE ROCKWOOD
38
F
OO
D F
AN
AT
ICS
|
SP
RIN
G 2
016
foo
dfa
na
tic
s.c
om
|
FO
OD
FA
NA
TIC
S
39
Dare to Share
Sh
ared
pla
tes
may
feel
so
20
11, b
ut t
hei
r fl
exib
le
form
at a
pp
eals
to m
ore
than
on
e d
emo
grap
hic
. A
t B
asta
, th
e $
82
scr
atch
-mad
e la
sagn
a re
-q
uir
es 2
4-h
ou
r n
otic
e b
ut
stil
l ge
ts o
rder
ed
mu
ltip
le t
imes
a w
eek
. Th
ou
gh t
he
men
u s
ug-
gest
s th
e d
ish
fo
r “f
ou
r to
six
peo
ple
,” W
hit
a-ke
r’s
seen
tab
les
of
two
ord
er t
he
mam
mot
h
dis
h.
“So
me
peo
ple
kn
ow t
hey
wan
t to
bri
ng
mo
st o
f it
ho
me
for
lun
ch t
he
nex
t d
ay; o
ther
s ar
e ju
st h
un
gry,
” h
e sa
ys.
Din
ers
aren
’t t
he
on
ly o
nes
sat
isfi
ed. S
har
e-ab
le p
late
s ar
e a
bac
k-o
f-h
ou
se b
oo
n.
“Wit
h
larg
e fo
rmat
, on
e se
rvin
g o
f b
eef
take
s ca
re o
f fo
ur
gues
ts, i
nst
ead
of f
ou
r in
div
idu
al s
ervi
ngs
,”
Wh
itak
er s
ays.
“T
hat
rea
lly
o$
sets
th
e lo
ad o
f th
e li
ne.
”
Beef It Up
In
Du
luth
, M
inn
esot
a,
hu
nd
red
s o
f m
ade-
fro
m-s
crat
ch d
iner
mea
ls a
re s
erve
d d
aily
at
Th
e D
ulu
th G
rill
. To
avo
id o
verw
hel
min
g an
al-
read
y b
ust
lin
g li
ne
wit
h s
tagg
ered
po
rtio
ns,
the
rest
aura
nt
reli
es o
n a
dd
-on
s li
ke a
hal
f-p
ou
nd
, gr
ass-
fed
bee
f bu
rger
, lam
b s
han
k g
yro
s, g
rill
ed
kal
e an
d
bac
on
-blu
e ch
eese
co
lesl
aw.
“We
do
n’t
tit
le a
nyt
hin
g h
eart
y o
r li
ghte
r, b
ut
that
’s
an e
asy
way
to
ad
just
yo
ur
po
rtio
n s
ize,
” sa
ys
co-o
wn
er T
om
Han
son
.B
ulk
do
esn
’t a
lway
s h
ave
to b
e se
rved
on
th
e si
de,
eit
her
. Wh
en M
att
Sel
by
was
th
e ch
ef a
t D
enve
r’s
Cen
tral
Bis
tro
& B
ar, h
e cr
eate
d a
pro
-te
in m
enu
fo
r th
ose
loo
kin
g to
bee
f u
p a
mea
l. “P
eop
le a
dd
sea
red
sal
mo
n o
r h
ou
sem
ade
ba-
con
or
gril
led
ste
ak t
o e
very
thin
g,”
says
Sel
by,
w
ho
rec
entl
y la
un
ched
a r
esta
ura
nt
con
sult
ing
bu
sin
ess.
“T
he
pro
tein
ad
d-o
n in
crea
ses
chec
k
aver
ages
, an
d it
hel
ps
the
gues
t fee
l lik
e th
ey g
ot
eno
ugh
to e
at.”
Show Me the Bread Basket
Wai
st-w
atch
ers
kn
ow
to
avo
id t
he
bre
adb
as-
ket
’s s
iren
so
ng,
bu
t o
$er
ing
that
mo
un
tain
o
f ca
rbs
can
be
a w
in-w
in f
or
ever
yon
e: I
t fi
lls
din
ers
up
wit
ho
ut
dra
mat
ical
ly d
rivi
ng
up
fo
od
co
sts.
T
o r
edu
ce w
aste
d m
on
ey o
n ta
ble
s th
at a
ren
’t
goin
g to
to
uch
it,
Ch
ef-o
wn
er C
hri
sty
Hay
es
of
Wo
od
lan
d,
Cal
ifo
rnia
-bas
ed M
ojo
’s K
itch
-en
42
8, h
as a
sim
ple
so
luti
on
: Ask
firs
t. “
We
ask
ev
ery
tab
le if
they
wan
t bre
ad, a
fter
they
ord
er,”
sh
e sa
ys. “
A lo
t o
f peo
ple
are
sta
yin
g aw
ay fr
om
Po
rtio
n P
erce
pti
on
Make a serving seem
bigger—even when it’s not.
1. Downsize your plates. Researchers
at Cornell University have found that
people tend to underestimate
the portion size of larger plates, thus
eating more and feeling less satisfied
with a meal.
2. Brag before you serve. Diners ex-
pect smaller delicacies, not dump trucks
of food, with premium ingredients like
locally raised protein or heirloom vege-
tables. Set expectations before they see
the portion size to shift their perspective
and minimize disappointment.
3. Go tall and slim. Here’s a reason
to rethink your short, squat barware:
People perceive tall-stemmed glasses as
larger, food researchers have found.
4. Intensify the flavor. Food that’s
smoky, spicy or intensely flavored can
have a greater impact on a diner’s palate
and cause them eat more slowly, even if
the portion is somewhat modest.
5. Plate with circles. The Delboeuf
illusion causes us to perceive something
as larger when it’s surrounded by a tight
circle. Keep that in mind next time you’re
finishing a plate with a garnish or sauce.
6. Stretch it out. If $40-per-pound
morel mushrooms are killing your food
cost, consider cutting the recipe with a
less expensive variety. You’ll still get the
flavor and balance costs without shrink-
ing the portions.
bre
ad th
ese
day
s, o
r th
ey w
ant m
ore
of t
he
foo
d
inst
ead
of
the
fill
er. B
ut
for
oth
ers,
th
ey r
eall
y h
ave
to h
ave
it.”
O$
er
up
to
p-n
otc
h
bre
ad,
and
yo
u
can
ch
arge
fo
r it
. A
t T
rem
on
t 6
47,
in
Bo
sto
n,
Ch
ef-o
wn
er
An
dy
Hu
sban
ds
rep
lace
d
the
com
pli
men
tary
bas
ket
s o
f fo
cacc
ia w
ith
$7
sk
ille
t co
rnb
read
. It
hel
ps
slas
h f
oo
d w
aste
w
ith
ou
t sh
rin
kin
g th
e av
erag
e ch
eck
ord
er.
“We
see
peo
ple
ord
erin
g it
as
an a
pp
etiz
er
som
etim
es, b
ut
mai
nly
as
an a
cco
mp
anim
ent
wit
h t
hei
r d
inn
ers,
” h
e sa
ys.
The Art of Selling
“Po
rtio
n s
izes
are
di$
eren
t ev
eryw
her
e, a
nd
gu
ests
are
bec
om
ing
mo
re s
avvy
ab
ou
t as
kin
g,”
Wh
itak
er s
ays.
Fo
r re
stau
rate
urs
, th
at m
ean
s ar
min
g th
e fr
on
t-o
f-h
ou
se s
ta$
wit
h t
he
pro
p-
er i
nte
l to
hel
p h
un
gry
din
ers
ord
er a
pp
rop
ri-
ate
po
rtio
ns.
“As
soo
n a
s a
new
men
u is
typ
ed u
p, t
he
sou
s ch
ef d
oes
a c
lass
wit
h t
he
serv
ers
and
go
es o
ver
the
ins
and
ou
ts o
f ea
ch m
enu
ite
m,”
say
s S
el-
by.
Th
e d
ebri
ef g
oes
so
far
as
to o
$er
th
e ex
act
ou
nce
s o
f th
e p
rote
in o
r am
ou
nt o
f pas
ta s
erve
d
wit
h e
ach
dis
h.
“Wit
h th
e ri
ght m
enu
kn
owle
dge
, ser
vers
can
cu
sto
m fi
t an
y p
art
of
the
men
u t
o s
om
eon
e’s
app
etit
e,”
he
says
. If
a d
iner
is
hu
ngr
y an
d e
yein
g th
e p
rim
i p
asta
s, f
or
inst
ance
, a s
erve
r m
igh
t su
gges
t th
e en
tree
pas
ta i
nst
ead
. If
a d
iner
ask
s ab
ou
t th
e fl
atb
read
s, t
he
serv
ers
kn
ow t
hat
on
e fl
atb
read
is
an
id
eal s
nac
k, w
hil
e th
ree
wo
rk a
s a
star
ter
for
a ta
ble
of e
igh
t.“I
t’s r
eall
y al
l ab
ou
t re
adin
g th
e gu
ests
,” s
ays
Sel
by.
“S
oli
d c
om
mu
nic
atio
n c
an b
e th
e d
i$er
-en
ce b
etw
een
so
meo
ne
leav
ing
dis
app
oin
ted
an
d s
om
eon
e fe
elin
g fe
d w
ell.”
Ka
te R
ockw
ood
is
a f
reel
an
ce w
rite
r a
nd
in
sa-
tia
ble
din
er.
WIT
H TH
E RI
GHT
MEN
U KN
OWLE
DGE,
SER
VERS
CAN
CU
STOM
FIT
ANY
PAR
T OF
TH
E M
ENU
TO S
OMEO
NE’S
AP
PETI
TE. —
Ma
tt S
elby
, for
mer
Den
ver
chef
turn
ed-c
onsu
lta
nt.
Get
a m
outh
ful f
rom
ou
r re
sid
ent
exp
ert
Port
land
ILLUSTRATION BY TIM MARRS
Craig Peck, a Food Fanatics
chef for US Foods, says think
Maine instead of Oregon
when you hear Portland.
@CraigMPeck
Follow the Food Fanatic on
Twitter for more insider tips.
FOOD
FAN
ATIC
FOOD
FANA
TIC
ROAD
TRI
P!
Wh
o w
ou
ld h
ave
ever
gu
esse
d t
hat
a s
leep
y se
asid
e to
wn
in
Mai
ne
wo
uld
riv
al S
an F
ran
cisc
o f
or
the
mo
st r
esta
ura
nts
per
cap
ita?
P
ort
lan
d,
a m
od
est
com
mu
nit
y o
f 6
6,6
00
th
at
mo
re t
han
tri
ple
s d
uri
ng
the
sum
mer
, is
bec
om
ing
know
n a
s o
ne
of t
he
mo
st r
esta
ura
nt-
den
se c
itie
s in
A
mer
ica.
Th
is c
uli
nar
y b
oo
m is
sh
ifti
ng
con
ven
tio
n-
al t
hin
kin
g th
at it
on
ly h
as lo
bst
er a
nd
a g
oo
d-l
oo
k-in
g sh
ore
lin
e.T
wen
ty y
ears
ago
, Ja
mes
Bea
rd a
war
d-w
inn
ing
chef
Sam
Hay
war
d a
nd
Dan
a S
tree
t o
pen
ed F
ore
S
tree
t in
th
e O
ld P
ort
Dis
tric
t, l
ayin
g th
e gr
ou
nd
-w
ork
for
the
loca
l an
d s
ust
ain
able
foo
d m
ovem
ents
. T
he
par
tner
s h
ave
sin
ce d
ou
ble
d d
own
, o
pen
ing
two
mo
re c
on
cep
ts: S
tan
dar
d B
akin
g C
om
pan
y an
d
Str
eet a
nd
Co.
W
ith
ove
r 50
0 re
stau
ran
ts in
21 s
qu
are
mil
es, P
ort
-la
nd
is d
raw
ing
chef
s w
ith
maj
or
stre
et c
red
. Sta
nd
-o
uts
incl
ud
e C
hef
Ch
ris
Go
uld
wh
o le
ft B
ost
on
’s U
ni
Sas
him
i Bar
at
Cli
o t
o o
pen
Cen
tral
Pro
visi
on
s an
d
bec
ame
a Ja
mes
Bea
rd a
war
d fi
nal
ist
for
his
loca
lly
Empi
re C
hine
se K
itche
nA reincarnation of the famous Empire Chop Suey,
which stood in the same location from 1916 to 1953,
serves up authentic versions of Chinese dishes. Go
for dim sum, and don’t miss the wok-tossed fried rice
and lobster stir-fried Hong Kong style.
Stre
et a
nd C
o.Sam Hayward and Dana Street’s casual concept fea-
tures a Mediterranean-centric menu showcasing local
ingredients, pasta and simple, yet well-prepared fish..
Otto
Batali may have called these guys “d-bags and
thieves” for allegedly copying his restaurant by the
same name, but with 10 storefronts in metro Boston
and Maine, the local pizza chain turns out some seri-
ous pie. Meatballs are a hit, too.
Gorg
eous
Gel
ato
Don’t get the name? You will when you meet husband
and wife Milanese transplants, Donato Giovine and
Mariagrazia Zanardi. Try traditional Italian flavors like
bacio and zabaione, as well as Americanized favorites.
THE
HIG
HLI
GHTS
sou
rced
men
u a
fter
his
inau
gura
l yea
r. T
wen
ty-s
even
-ye
ar-o
ld C
ara
Sta
dle
r o
f Bao
Bao
Du
mp
lin
g H
ou
se h
as
take
n w
hat
sh
e le
arn
ed fr
om
her
mo
m in
Sh
angh
ai t
o
turn
ou
t au
then
tic
sou
p d
um
pli
ngs
. Yo
u’d
do
an
yth
ing
for
tho
se d
um
pli
ngs
. An
d I
mea
n a
nyt
hin
g.
Ove
r th
e p
ast
few
yea
rs, n
ewco
mer
s, s
uch
as
Tac
o
Tri
o, E
ast
En
der
an
d S
lab
Sic
ilia
n S
tree
t F
oo
d, h
ave
intr
od
uce
d i
nte
rnat
ion
al f
are,
fu
rth
erin
g P
ort
lan
d’s
p
osi
tio
n a
s an
inn
ovat
ive
foo
d d
esti
nat
ion
. T
he
arri
val o
f cr
eati
ve c
hef
s co
mes
wit
h n
ew t
akes
o
n o
ur
loca
l cl
assi
cs. A
t E
ven
tid
e O
yste
r C
o., l
ob
ster
m
eat
is t
oss
ed i
n w
arm
bro
wn
ed b
utt
er a
nd
ser
ved
o
n a
ho
use
mad
e b
ao b
un
. Hak
e is
bat
tere
d, f
ried
an
d
slat
her
ed i
n h
ou
sem
ade
tart
ar s
auce
fo
r a
fish
san
d-
wic
h. Y
ou
can
’t e
at a
not
her
bit
e, b
ut
you
do
an
yway
b
ecau
se t
he
ho
use
mad
e w
ho
op
ie p
ie w
ill k
no
ck y
ou
r so
cks
o$
. It
’s t
he
per
fect
rat
io o
f va
nil
la b
utt
ercr
eam
to
dev
il’s
foo
d c
ake.
Wit
h s
o m
any
op
tio
ns,
yo
u m
igh
t as
wel
l o
wn
u
p t
o t
he
fact
th
at y
ou
’ll
eat
seve
ral
mea
ls a
day
—m
ore
th
an o
nce
.