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HighCountry 20154

I n this issue of HighCountry, we explore a few of the more off-the-beaten-path places to bum around. Cool thing about

bummin’ around is you never know what you’ll run into. Kids know this much better than older folks. They understand bummin’ around on foot is one thing; but on bikes – one of the best inventions ever, especially after a long winter cooped up in school – it’s time to roll. Spring… sum-mer… the open road is calling. Kids never need an excuse to drum up adventure. We never did. We weren’t just a rag tag pack of grade school gutter rats; we had style and rated ourselves pretty high on the cool scale. We had buzz cuts, heinies, no hair to slow us down, the perfect cut for cruising the ‘hood in summer. But cooler yet was when we geared up to get bike-wild. Find an old football or military helmet, rubber band your right pants leg to keep them from getting caught in the chain or sprocket, maybe some thin riding gloves borrowed from your sisters’ closet, shoulder pads, knee pads, elbow pads, anything to give you a little cushion. The bikes were all one-speed – no shocks, no handle bar brakes or gear shifters – with chain brakes where you press down backwards with one foot to stop or, if you really crank down, you could lock up the back tire in a skid. We rode whatever we had, mostly old junkers handed down from siblings. Anything was good enough. But no cards clipped with clothes pins to the spokes; even though it made a nice noise, that was kid stuff. My ride was a “girl’s bike,” no top tube from the seat forward. Originally my mom’s ride, it had a big old seat built for comfort, a chipped blue frame, and best of all, super fat tires, the fattest tires around. Our dog Corky, a tire nipper, especially loved fat tires – a big target. Sometimes we chased the mosquito fogging truck until we got too light-headed

Welcome to theSouthern RockiesThe Life

Up High

BalloonsOver

Angel FireJune 19-21, 2015

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Ride the Zipline

Ride Chairlifts

Fish & Hunt

Hike

Rock Climb

Star Gaze

Motorcycle

Raft

Golf

Bird Watch

View Wildlife

Picnic

Ride Horses

Daydream

Disc Golf

Tennis

Photography

Art Exhibits

ATV Tours

Live Music

Festivals

or we’d pedal to the gravel pits for a swim or we’d launch off the bikes into lawn bags full of clippings or leaves and it would make brilliant popping sounds when the bags exploded. One guy – who never looked where he was going – regularly slammed into parked cars, setting off a vol-ley of laughter. We had enough laughs in us to supply the whole town. But one place we still wanted to ride was Gooseberry Park, a maze of wicked, hilly trails weaving through trees down by the river. Older kids (12 and 13) used to ride there, flying off packed dirt jumps, sailing like E.T. through the trees. They’d always harrass us, telling us we’re too young, that we’re gonna die if we tried what they were doing. And even though we half-believed them, it didn’t stop us; it made us want to do it even more. So we went, warming up by gently rolling over the smaller jumps, getting a feeling for what it would be like to go faster and higher. A breeze came up off the riffles on the river, washing across our faces as we got braver and braver. After enough practice runs, we worked up the courage to ride over to Death Row – the longest bike jump, we were pretty sure, in the world. It looked big, scary big, bigger than we’d ever imagined. But we figured if we hit it just right and survived, it would catapult us straight into the Gooseberry Flying Hall of Fame. Our first rider – knowing the longer you wait, the scarier it gets – shot off. He looked pretty good going down – not great, but okay. At the lip of the jump he lifted his front tire, barely: a whole lot of drama and theatrics trying to make it look better than it was. But we cheered; he made it. Funny thing about cheering: it’s not always such a great thing, as it may urge you to do more than you planned, take you past your comfort level and way past your skill level. But then somebody said Go for it, and I shot off, my heart pounding in my head. A couple of older kids snickered. They knew I wasn’t fooling anybody, especially myself. At first it wasn’t bad – too steep and way too fast, a little weakness in the knees

and queasiness in the stomach, but not bad. I was wondering what exactly the it in Go for it means. My mind was whirling as fast as the whirring of the fat tires on the packed dirt when I suddenly hit the lip of the jump and it became clear: It meant go-ing for broke, shooting for the stars, going for all the marbles. I was flying so far out of my league I imagined kids talking about it for years, telling their grandkids about it. Then I remembered where I was, but it was too late. When I crash-landed, launch-ing over the handlebars and augered into the dirt, I saw all the stars I was shooting for, marbles richocheting in my head. Just before landing, I had closed my eyes, not wanting to see how bad it was going to be. When I opened them, pretty sure I had es-caped with only a concussion through my cracked helmet, the trees were spinning as fast as the tires on the broken bike. The frame was busted in half. I could feel the crunch of dirt and grit between my teeth – pretty good dirt, it seemed, if it were in the garden instead of my mouth. A bloody nose, scuffed up chin. Hard to believe one kid could create such a dust storm. “Holy crap,” my friend said, pedaling up. “You really ate it.” He was right of course, I did. But for a moment, in mid-air, I felt like I had touched something pure, something al-most primeval – like maybe first flight. Or maybe even further back in time, like the first crash landing attempting flight. Then, looking at the bike busted in half, he said, “Man, are you gonna get it.” And as the dust and dizziness settled, I could see it all clearly. The it in Go for it isn’t far from the it in You’re gonna get it. If I didn’t want my mother to kill me, I was going to have to come up with a whopper story. Whether you ride the Gorge rim, rip downhill, cruise the South Boundary Trail on a super lightweight mountain bike or fly the friendly skies on your mom’s old junker, have a great ride. Welcome to the southern Rockies. — Joe Haukebo, Publisher

Angel Fire

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Welcome

Our Towns

Alpine Lodging

Wilderness Bumming

In The Footsteps of Giants...

Moonshining On The Mesa

23

24

25

26

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Historic Hotels

Outfitters

On The Green

Dining

Calendar of Events

Festival Favorites

Contents

HighCountry and SkiCountry Visitor Guides are

published by Hawk Media. All rights reserved.

Material in this publication may not be

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for permission should be directed to:

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PUBLISHER/EDITOR Joe Haukebo

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CONTRIBUTING WRITERS John Biscello, Jim O’Donnell

PHOTOGRAPHY Jim O’Donnell, Geraint Smith

COVER “One Blue Eye” by Geraint Smith

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The sun never knew how wonderful it was, until it fell on the wall of a building. — Louis Kahn

We’re all like detectives in life. There’s something at the end of the trail that we’re all looking for. — David Lynch

C reatively riffing on Mr. Lynch’s quote, let us imagine the towns and villages of Northern New

Mexico and the Southern Rockies as high desert noir, with surrealistic twists, and us intrepid detectives attempting to penetrate the mysteries and layers of the region’s complex character. GPS-less paths leading into rugged patches and pockets of nature, descents into the “living museum” of prehistory, ghost towns with gold-plated pasts, marked and unmarked roads providing numerous angles, slants and oblique detours. Playing detective in this area means taking on an enigmatic case that can never be closed or resolved, for the end of every trail doubles as an invitation into still deeper mystery and speculation. Or to parallel the track-marks of the great Shel Silver- stein: There is a place where the side-walk ends. The Rio Grande Gorge is a geological masterpiece that qualifies as both off-the-beaten-path and explicitly mainstream. Mainstream in that this prehistoric rift was designated a National Monument in 2012. Spanning approx-imately 50 miles from the Colorado border to southeast of Taos, the Gorge is a treasury of natural wonders, wildlife,

sporting and exploratory options. The depths can be plumbed on foot, where encounters on the down-low may include ancient petroglyphs, hot springs, and wildlife ranging from bighorn sheep to mule deer to red-tailed hawks. The river snaking through the Gorge can be cruised on kayak or rapid-fired on a raft. Ten miles northwest of Taos is the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, a steel-bodied beauty capable of producing vertigo, postcard keepsakes, and pagan musings. North of the Gorge, the Road Warrior- mapped landscape known as “The Mesa” is the setting of the Greater World Earthship Community. As off-the-grid models of

sustainability, Earthships, which have become architectural signatures marking the region, are available for touring, rent-als, and purchase. In a sense, all paths lead to Taos Pueblo,

Our Towns

Angel FireChamaCimarronDurangoEagle NestPagosa SpringsRed RiverSouth ForkTaosTaos Ski Valley

PHOTOS: GERAINT SMITH

Continued next page

10 HighCountry 2015

which is the ancient heart and soul of Taos. A UNESCO World Heritage Site and National Historic Landmark, the multi-storied adobe buildings have been continuously inhabited for over 1000 years. The 30th annual Taos Pueblo Pow Wow will take place July 10-12. After nearly 60 years in the Blake family, Taos Ski Valley has changed hands and is now owned by business mogul, conservationist, and avid skier Louis Bacon. Renovations are ongoing, including the recent Kachina Peak lift and another in the works, mountain biking trails, an expanded base area, and new restaurants and retail shops. The Village of Angel Fire will again host “Balloons Over Angel Fire,” returning this summer June 19-21. And Angel Fire Resort will open this summer a multi-million dollar, state-of-the-art RV Resort on 35 acres neaer the base of Palo Flechado Pass. The RV Resort will

feature 102 RV spaces, private club-house, Jacuzzi, etc. Gravity is at the center of two high-adrenaline summer-friendly activities in Angel Fire. Angel Fire Bike Park, named #1 Bike Park by MTBparks.com two years in a row, offers over 60 miles of heart-charging trails. And sometimes departure from the well-paved path means taking leave of the earth beneath your feet. The Zipline Adventure Tours features six ziplines, spanning anywhere from 120 to 1,600 feet, with guided glides giving you a cruiser’s elevated view of the Moreno Valley below. Created in 1918 for irrigation purposes, the 2,200 Eagle Nest Lake (adjacent to the Village of Eagle Nest and fifteen minutes from Angel Fire) is an oasis for anglers and reel-timers. The lake is stocked with rainbow trout, pike, perch and kokanee salmon, and neigh-

boring wildlife includes elk, bears, and bald eagles. Nearby Cimarron Canyon provides a challenging handful for rock climbing enthusiasts. If ghostly lore floats your boat, then drop in at the historic St. James Hotel in Cimarron. With some of its outlaw “interior decorators” leaving bullet holes in the wall as a stylistic statement, the rough-and-tumble past of the St. James Hotel is a sneak peek into the psyche of the Wild West. Numerous ghosts are said to call the St. James home. Check out Philmont Scout Ranch, largest private backpacking facility in the world. Back in the 1800s, the prospect of gold-blazed trails leading to the mining Town of Red River. Nowadays, “Main Street in the Mountains” specializes in quaint and down-homey, with a flair for the outdoors. Summer highlights include: River & Brews Music Festival (June 13), Music in the Mountains

PAINTING BY TAOS ARTIST ED SANDOVAL. PHOTO: JOE HAUKEBO

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(June 21-July 26), Gettin’ Rowdy in Red River Square Dancing Festivals (July 13-30), and Hot Chili Days, Cool Mountain Nights (August 12-15). New this summer, Red River Ski and Summer Area will offer double-seat-ed rides on the “Pioneer Flyer” zipline, flying over Pioneer and the town fishing pond at the base of the ski area. Also at the base area, a high-tech ropes course is currently under construction. Pickaxes, gunfire, and a flinty complexion define the rough-and-tum-ble past of former boomtown, Chama. Riding the rails is one way to experience the scenic landscape spanning northern New Mexico and the southern Rockies. Built in 1880, the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad is a national historic landmark, offering a steam-powered invitation into a bygone era. Territorial Days (June 28-29), an event celebrat-ing the arrival of the railroad in Chama in 1880, features skits, music, dancing, Jicarilla Apache events, crafts, black-smithing, and more.

In how many ways can one experi-ence the all-natural thrills of Durango? Let us count and give praise: rafting, kayaking, mountain biking, hiking, horseback riding, rock-climbing, fishing, and ziplining are some of the recreation-al options that make Durango a hotspot for outdoor enthusiasts. Durango’s “wild west” lineage is celebrated in two summer events: True West Rodeo (July 1, 15, 29, and August 16) and True West Railfest (August 13-16). The Spanish and Native American heritage infusing Durango’s past is commemorated on Fiesta Days (July 27) with a parade, rodeos, barrel races, chuck wagon cook-off, pie contest, pancake breakfast, street dance and more. The gateway to the San Juan Moun-tains, Rio Grande County, which in-cludes South Fork, Monte Vista and Del Norte, reflects the eye-candy grandeur of the San Luis Valley. South Fork, rich in outdoor recreation, is the start-ing point for the Silver Thread National Scenic Byway. The Monte Vista Wildlife

National Refuge, nearly 15,000 acres of artificially created wetlands, is where birds of different feathers flock together, including mallards, pintail, teal, Canada geese, American avocets, killdeer, white-faced ibis, egrets, and herons. Located within the sprawling San Juan National Forest, and hemmed in by the cloud-piercing San Juan Mountains, Pagosa, CO is a jewel of an oasis. Pagosa (which comes from pagosah, the Southern Ute word for “healing waters”) offers three different hot spring facilities. Tonic for the soul may come in the form of mineral pools, baths, rooftop tubs, and healing massage treatments. Hiking, biking, rock climbing, fishing, golfing, horse-back riding, boating, and disc golf are other activities that keep summer in Pagosa humming along.

John Biscello lives and writes in Taos. His books, Freeze Tag and Broken Land: A Brooklyn Tale, are available through Amazon.com.

12 HighCountry 2015

EL PUEBLO LODGECome stay at the edge of town, at the edge of everything! Southwest charm with early Taos architecture, but with all the modern conveniences trav-elers expect. Complimentary Wi-Fi, 40” flat screen TVs with HD and DirectTV, fitness room, heated seasonal pool and year-round hot tub. Hot breakfast bar each morning, fresh baked cookies each afternoon. Pet-friendly. Three blocks from historic Taos Plaza; 18 miles from Taos Ski Valley. Taos Pueblo and Taos Mountain Casino two miles north. Visit our website for specials & packages. #1 on TripAdvisor in the Taos area for 4 years!

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place adjacent to the kitchen, bathroom and private bedroom(s). Front porch with seating and off-porch BBQ grill area. Located East of Old Downtown Pagosa and the Hot Springs, toward Wolf Creek Ski Area and National Forest. On-site: Guest laundry, hot tub, Wi-Fi, phone and cable. Open all year. Specials: Discounted Hot Springs passes.

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LOST EAGLE RV PARKEscape the summer heat and spend your vacation nestled in a beautiful, cool valley surrounded by the majestic mountains of northern NM. Load up the

RV and head to Lost Eagle RV Park, located in the heart of Eagle Nest, NM! Enjoy the charm of this Old West town with unique restaurants, shops, and art galleries within easy walking distance. Opportunities abound for adven-ture, culture, scenic drives, or just relaxing in paradise. Enjoy spacious lots, gorgeous lake views, friendly staff & modern amenities including wi-fi, shower & laundry. RV park is pet friendly. Mention this ad for 10% discount on nightly RV rate. Beautifully furnished vacation home also available year-round. Call for reservations.

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14 HighCountry 2015

Wilderness Bumming

T he Colorado-New Mexico border area offers a stunning array of federally designated wilderness

areas for all your tramping needs. I’ve often heard it said that when God takes a vacation, She goes to Colo-rado. But I ran into Her on the trail one fine summer day when the Canadian violets were popping flowers all along the stream beds and their heart-shaped leaves were flush with green and God told me that in fact – and to be specific – it was the Colorado and New Mexico border area She targets for vacations. “Why?” I asked. “Wilderness,” She said and danced down the trail through the blue and red columbines, scarlet penstemons, yellow parsley and countless other flowers dressing the mountainside. Well. That must be why they call this God’s Country, then. Between Santa Fe on the south end and Salida on the north, there are no fewer than 14 designated wilderness areas covering around a million and a half acres of publically-owned land. And that is not to mention stunning places like the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument, the Valle Vidal unit of the Carson National Forest and the Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve, among others. There is no place like the Colorado-New Mexico border lands for bumming around on vast and awe- inspiring chunks of lands owned by all Americans. The 1964 Wilderness Act is one of the crowning achievements of our nation. Ours was the very first nation to codify the concept of wilderness legally. Many other nations, inspired by our

leadership, have followed with their own Wilderness laws. Freedom is at the core of the American wilderness ideal – which is presumably why God vacations in our wild lands. The Wilderness Act itself defines wilderness as “untrammeled.” That is not, as many people think, “untrampeled” as in never having seen human activity, because of course that is impossible. Native Americans roamed and utilized these lands for tens of millennia before the United States was born. Instead, untrammeled means free. To trammel something means to tie it down or restrain it. So as untrammeled lands, American wilderness areas are the epitome of freedom. Just northeast of Taos lies the brand-spanking new Columbine-Hondo Wilderness Area, one of the more rugged roadless areas in the Southern Rock-ies. Driven upwards about 20 million years ago, the Columbine-Hondo is the headwaters of both the Red River and the Rio Hondo, both tributaries to the Rio Grande to the west. Rising up from the surrounding dry sagebrush flats this area is surprisingly lush with deep dark pine and spruce forests full of wildflowers and roiling creeks that rise from high altitude alpine meadows. The Colum-bine-Hondo is also home to a wide range of wildlife, from bighorn sheep to moun-tain lions to bear, deer, elk and more. The Columbine-Hondo is a center-piece of a wilderness complex, with the Wheeler Peak Wilderness on its south end and the Latir Peak Wilderness just to the north. From Gold Hill, the highest point in the Columbine-Hondo, the Valle Vidal area lies to the north. While not a

designated wilderness, the Valle Vidal is largely roadless and generally managed as wilderness. Straddling both sides of the Sangre de Cristo, the Valley of Life, as it is known, hosts an impressive diversity of ecosystems and wildlife. You can take a multi-day backpack in the Pecos Wilderness just north of Santa Fe and walk for days without see-ing another human being. How about a climb up Wheeler Peak, the highest point in New Mexico, or a fishing trip into the Cruces Basin Wilderness? You can raft the Chama Canyon but don’t miss a hike or horseback ride in the wild grasslands on the mesas that over-hang the river. On the Colorado side, the Spanish Peaks Wilderness near Walsenburg protects two massive, long-dormant volcanoes that stick out in the Great Plains. From the top of the 13,000 foot peaks you can see a wagon wheel design of volcanic walls or dikes that jut from the forest below. The Sangre de Cristo Wilderness just to the west is Colorado’s third largest wilderness. In contrast to most of Colorado’s mountains, this rugged range was uplifted quickly in gargantuan blocks of stone that created stunning vertical changes in very short distances. Careful with your neck when you have to look straight up! Four of Colorado’s 14,000–plus ft. peaks are crowded in to the Sangres while at its base sits the Great Sand Dunes Wilder-ness Area, hosting rolling dunes made up of sand from an ancient sea bed. You see, you really can’t go wrong. Running both sides of the Continental Divide is Colorado’s largest wilderness area, the Weminuche. South of that,

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near Pagosa Springs, the South San Juan Wilderness was home to the last known grizzly bear in Colorado, shot in 1979. There is no place you will find on the planet that is devoid of human impact but in wilderness the freedom of the land dominates. Clean air, fresh wildlife, healthy ecosystems…that is what you will find when you cross the threshold to wilderness. In the Colorado-New Mexico border-lands more than a million and a half acres with thousands of miles of hiking trails and endless opportunity for adventure awaits the wilderness bum. And God, who is apparently very big on wilderness.

Author and photographer Jim O’Donnell calls Taos home. His wanderings have taken him to over 40 countries on five continents and are to blame for the five languages he is sure he can stumble through. O’Donnell is the author of Notes For The Aurora Society.

WILDERNESS AREAS of the COLORADO-NEW MEXICO BORDERLANDS NEW MEXICO• Pecos Wilderness – 223,333 acres

• San Pedro Parks Wilderness – 41,132 acres

• Chama River Canyon Wilderness – 50,300 acres

• Wheeler Peak Wilderness – 19,547 acres

• Columbine-Hondo Wilderness – 45,000 acres

• Latir Peak Wilderness – 20,000 acres

• Cruces Basin Wilderness – 18,000 acres

COLORADO• Spanish Peaks Wilderness – 19,226 acres

• South San Juan Wilderness – 158,790 acres

• Weminuche Wilderness – 488,340 acres

• Sangre de Cristo Wilderness – 220,803 acres

• Greenhorn Wilderness – 23,087 acres

• La Garita Wilderness – 129,626 acres

• Great Sand Dunes Wilderness – 32,643 acres

Numerous cultures were born from and grew in the wildlands of the Colorado-New Mexico borderlands. PHOTO: JIM O’DONNELL

16 HighCountry 2015

In the Footsteps of Giants...Lawrence and O’Keeffe in New Mexico

I am on the trail of two ghosts. As fa-mous ghosts, who left behind respective legacies of words and images, they are

easy to track. One was a writer, the other a painter. Celebrated, controversial, vision-ary, iconoclastic. These being some of the terms applied to them during their lives. Compelled by what you might call an incurable existential itch, both the writer and the painter were restless, self-possessed seekers and individualists.

Their work struck an artistic ham-mer-blow to convention, and extended boundaries. In a sense the writer, D.H. Lawrence, and the painter, Georgia O’Keeffe, were spiritual kin, who not only found vital bits of their souls re-flected back to them in the stark mirror

that is New Mexico, but also a profound sense of home.

A FIERCE AWAKENING “I think New Mexico is the greatest experience from the outside world that I have ever had. It completely changed me forever . . . In the magnificent fierce morning of New Mexico one sprang awake, a new part of the soul woke up suddenly and the old world gave way to a

new.” This awakening, as de-scribed by Lawrence in one of his essays, underscored his deeply cherished desires and ideals: A new way of see-ing and being in the world. His self-defined “savage pilgrimage,” was a personal Grail-quest to find a civi-lization with spiritual and holistic principles woven into its fabric. An unflagging idealist, one of Lawrence’s goals in New Mexico was to spearhead Rananim, a utopian society. Rananim was never realized, but you might say its flower-haired younger sibling was the Peace-and-Love Groovement of the 1960s. Despite the soul-stir-ring impact that New Mexico had on Lawrence,

he only spent a total of eleven months in the area, between 1922 and 1925. The remote San Cristobal setting where he and his wife, Frieda, lived was the Kiowa Ranch (now known as the D.H. Lawrence Ranch), a rustic 160-acre property which was gifted to them by

Mabel Dodge Luhan. Lawrence declined Luhan’s charity, but Frieda accepted. In return they presented Luhan with the original manuscript of Sons and Lovers. Offended by the exchange, two years later Luhan bequeathed the manuscript to her New York therapist, A.A. Brill.

A RANCH OF ONE’S OWN The D.H. Lawrence Ranch, now on the National Register of Historic Plac-es, is owned by the University of New Mexico. The Ranch re-opened in July 2014, after having been closed for five years. A visceral mixed salad of juniper, piñon, oak, sage, and ponderosa will be encountered once you turn off the main road and wind your way to the Ranch. Volunteer docents are there to guide you around the property, if you wish, and provide background info on the Ranch and its history. I enjoyed the company of an animal-guide, a sweet and affection-ate gray kitten, Callie, who followed me around and lent a domesticated touch to the rural setting. There are three primary points of interest at the Ranch: The D.H. Lawrence Memorial, the small cabin, and the Homesteader’s Cabin. A stone pathway leads to a modest white chapel, dwarfed by towering pines. This is the Memorial, where Frieda is buried (her gravesite, marked by a tall wooden cross, fronts the chapel) and Lawrence’s ashes have been preserved in a concrete shrine inside the chapel. Or so it is said. It seems that controversy followed Lawrence beyond the grave, as Frieda’s lover, Bersaglieri Angelo Ravagli, was to transport the ashes to the Ranch, and may or may not have dumped them somewhere between Marseilles and

Lawrence milking Susan, who frequently escaped into the mountains

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Villefranche, before arriving with substi-tute ashes for historic memorialization. Lawrence, his cremated stand-in, camp-fire ashes? A mysterious case that only a ghost whisperer might be able to crack. The small cabin, shoebox in propor-tions, was occupied by Lawrence’s friend and artistic comrade-in-arms, the Hon-orable Lady Dorothy Brett. Affiliated with the Bloomsbury Group in England, Lady Brett moved to the Ranch in 1924 where she painted (some of her paintings are on exhibit at the Harwood Museum and Millicent Rogers Museum, both located in Taos) and helped Lawrence by typing up his manuscripts. Lady Brett traded in the comfort and privileges of her aristocratic background for high desert grunge—no running water, no electricity, self-reli-ance—and even after leaving the Ranch she lived in Taos until her death in 1977. The Homesteader’s Cabin was where Lawrence and Frieda lived. The time-scarred adobe exterior features the image of a buffalo, painted by Taos Pueblo native Trinidad Archuleta, who signed his name “TRNRDOD.” The cabin is fronted by a towering ponderosa, which Lawrence referred to as his “guardian angel.” In warm weather he would sit under the tree, shadowed by its boughs, and scribble in his notebook. O’Keeffe, during a visit to the Ranch, painted “The Lawrence Tree” and the effect is one of horizontal awe, as if the tree is being visually scaled from a root-down perspective. Her inimitable vision transforms the branches into a con-cert of tendrils, and its coat of needles into an amorphous dark cloud, with stars freck-ling the background. O’Keeffe wrote, in a letter to Mabel Dodge Luhan, “I had one particular painting—that tree in Lawrenc-

es (sic) front yard as you see it when you lie under it on the table— with stars—it looks as tho it is standing on its head...” The Homesteader’s Cabin, built in 1884 and restored in 1924, has been historically preserved (there is a kitchen addition, which was not part of the set-up when Lawrence and Frieda occupied the cabin). Comprised of a kitchen, living room, and bedroom, the vein-mapped walls lend character and a tangible sense of time to the Spartan accommodations. It is easy to imagine Lawrence at the desk in the liv-ing room, writing by lamplight, a window looking out onto the night-cloaked pon-derosa. Photos and memorabilia can be found in the cabin, and three Lawrence poems are exhibited on the main wall of the living room, including this one, titled “At the Window”:

The pine-trees bend to listen to the autumn wind as it mutters Something which sets the black poplars ashake with hysterical laughter; While slowly the house of day is closing its eastern shutters. Further down the valley the clustered tombstones recede, Winding about their dimness the mist’s grey cerements, afterThe street lamps in the darkness have suddenly started to bleed. The leaves fly over the window and utter a word as they pass

To the face that leans from the darkness, intent, with two dark-filled eyes That watch for ever earnestly from behind the window glass.

For more information about the Ranch, located in San Cristobal, 20 miles north of Taos, visit dhlawrenceranch.org or call 575-770-4830.

GEORGIA ON MY MIND I found I could say things with color and shapes that I couldn’t say any other way—things I had no words for. — Georgia O’Keeffe

A fugitive spirit who relentlessly stalked line, color, and form, O’Keeffe found a wordless muse in the bare bones landscape of New Mexico. When O’Keeffe arrived in Taos in 1929, at the invitation of Mabel Dodge Luhan and Lady Brett, she had already gained fame, acclaim and notoriety not

Continued on page 21

Georgia atop the roof at Ghost Ranch

18 HighCountry 2015

Moonshining On The Mesa

O ut on La Otra Banda there is no water – no lakes, no rivers, no creeks and no springs. The

closest water is several hundred feet down, beneath the basalt bedrock that blankets the entire plateau. The water has always been elusive. Water does come on occasion, in

brief torrents dropping from silver-tipped clouds that just as quickly pass on to the east over the lip of the Sangre de Cristos. More often than not it teases from the clouds as wisps of gray virga that evapo-rates hundreds of feet above the ground. It is not hyperbole to compare a virga to a broken promise. But what did fall the homesteaders tried to snatch. In the arroyos that line the face of Cerro Montoso or “timber mountain,” they constructed dams of interlocking ponderosa logs shaped like a series of cribs. Then they filled the cribs with soil and heaps of busted-up three mil-lion-year-old basalt and rhyolite. The land leaks, however. The water seeped through the fractured bedrock and disappeared, like the virga.

Standing over the remains of one of these cribbed dams it becomes ap-parent that the people who once lived here are as ephemeral as the water. They always were. The Rio Grande del Norte National Monument sprawls over more than 310,500 acres of northern New Mexico

between Taos and the Colorado border. This is a truly wild land of rolling grass-lands and sagebrush mesas interspersed with the forested slopes of volcanic domes and cones that harbor vast herds of pronghorn and elk. Bisecting the monument, the blue-green ribbon of the Rio Grande cuts hundreds of feet through the volcanic flows, forming a stunning gorge that hosts golden and bald eagles, several species of hawks and a river popping with trout. It is a wild land and, as far as people go, it is empty. And yet for a brief and forgotten twenty years in the period after World War I a little community flour-ished in the shadows of Montoso on the west side of the gorge – La Otra Banda. It is a short hike up. From the top of Montoso, Taos is barely visible.

Forests of piñon and juniper edge the sagebrush in a crenulated ribbon. The one rough Bureau of Land Management (BLM) access road winds its way north. Several turkey vultures pick up the thermals and rise in circles over the remains of what was once the home of Dorr K. Smith and his family.

For centuries the area had been used for nothing more than sheep grazing. So when several newcomers, most veterans of the war, showed up and began filing land patents and erecting fences under the guise of the 1862 Homesteading Act, local families grew nervous. But there was a reason that land had generally remained empty. As local Hispanics and Native Americans knew, not only was there a severe shortage of water but the local climate – long bitterly cold winters, springtime full of relentless winds and dry, hot summers – made the area wholly unsuitable for farming. Quickly the homesteaders gave up grow-ing anything but beets and potatoes and they turned to harvesting timber along the slopes of the cerros, hauling the logs by wagon to Taos or Antonito, CO.

19hawk-media.com

And then there was moonshine. Prohibition was in full swing, but that didn’t stop Americans from drinking, and the remote Montoso community made use of being somewhat off the map. They brewed beer for themselves while the moonshine went north to Colorado. There were some takers in Taos, too, and stories still drip out now and again of jugs hidden in firewood deliveries to the plaza. The Montoso community was part of a larger cultural story dressing the landscape and dating back at least

12,000 years. A surprising variety of ethnic groups passed through the Taos Plateau through the millennia, leaving behind an extensive legacy of pit houses, tools, projectile points, hunting camps, potsherds and villages. Just a few years ago BLM archaeologists found several large and intact 800-year-old jars in a cut in the rock near a frequently used trailhead. The people of Taos and Picuris Pueblo have been here for perhaps 1000 years. Petroglyphs are ubiquitous in the national monument. It seems that every culture that came through here left their mark pecked into tough, black igneous rock. They are beautiful and dramatic, drawing the landscape-wanderer deep into the past. The Utes came down from the

Shining Mountains in Colorado to hunt and trade across the plateau, and at one point, the Comanche came up off the Plains and for a time became frequent visitors. Most of the Comanche glyphs are faint and challenging to find. But once you adjust your eye to the subtle forms, you recognize scenes from what archaeologists call the Horse Culture Tradition. These are raiding and battle scenes, lances, shields, a mountain lion and tipis. This tradition dates to the 1700s when what has come to be under-stood as the Comanche Empire stretched

from the Llano Estacado of west Texas well into the upper Rio Grande region. And crosses. There are crosses ev-erywhere. At first you might think they all date from at least the time of the Spanish, but they are difficult to date and the cross as a symbol is universal. Many of them are presumably pre-Colombian. The BLM doesn’t reveal the location of the petroglyphs, and local volunteers regularly scour the landscape to record these sites. Part of the reason for the secrecy is to preserve the ability of the wanderer to make their own discoveries. Then there is protection. Messing with these treasures is illegal, and folks are prosecuted for disturbing cultural sites on the land. The Ute are gone. The Comanche

are gone. The ones who came before them are gone too. Ephemeral visitors, like the water. Eventually, Montoso grew large enough to host a little school with an on-site teacher. The Smith family joined with the other homesteaders to construct concrete-lined cisterns to collect the scant rainfall. But it wasn’t enough. Water was laboriously trucked from the river in metal barrels. Several Hispanic families also set up seasonal settlements among the cerros. Moon-shine still went by way of wagon and

eventually Model T to the train station in Tres Piedras or Antonito to be shipped further north. But it wasn’t to last. Relations with the local population were often tense. Relations with the land even more so. The Montoso families began to trickle away by the late 1920s. Dorr K. and Vera Smith left with their small daughter in 1933. Bootlegging wasn’t as lucrative as it had been before the repeal of the 18th Amendment. Several very harsh winters in a row blanketed La Otra Banda and by 1938 the drip, drip of departing Anglo homesteaders was complete. The land began the slow process of reclaiming what has always belonged to the land.

— Jim O’Donnell

PHOTO: JIM O’DONNELL

20 HighCountry 2015

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only for her groundbreaking abstracts and texturally magnified flower paint-ings, but also the nude photos of her which had been snapped by her husband, the photographer, Alfred Steiglitz. Ghost Ranch, located near the village of Abiquiu, is part of Piedra Lumbre (“Shining Rock”), a 1766 land grant to Pedro Martin Serrano from Charles III of Spain. Arthur Pack, writer and editor of Nature magazine, bought the Ranch in the 1930s and in 1934, O’Keeffe’s “fling” with the Ranch turned into a lifelong love affair. She wound up buying Ranchos de Los Burros—a house and seven acres—from Pack, and summers at Ghost Ranch and winters in New York, where Stieglitz remained, became her migratory pattern. This continued until her husband’s death in 1946, when she settled in her rebuilt adobe home in Abiquiu. The 21,000 acres comprising Ghost Ranch could be the raw interior of a

painter’s wet dream. Or an alien get-away for societal expats. Reddish-ochre hills and cliffs, waterfalls darkly threading canyon walls, sun-bleached cloud spools spanning wide-open skies: O’Keeffe applied palette and imagina-tion to claim and honor these elements. Pedernal, the flat-topped mesa situated in the Jemez Mountains, was one of O’Keeffe’s favorite “subjects” and her ashes were scattered on its peak (or so we can safely assume, as Bersaglieri Angelo Ravagli was not involved in ash-transport). For the past 55+ years Ghost Ranch has been run by the Presbyterian Church as an educational and retreat center. Artist workshops and plein-air paint-ing allows artists to render “O’Keeffe Country” in their own style and bent. A time-sculpted window into the past can be experienced through archaeological and paleontological expeditions. And the rugged beauty of the area can be explored in a number of ways: rafting,

canoeing and kayaking on the nearby Rio Chama River, rock climbing, horse-back riding, and three popular hiking trails — Box Canyon, Kitchen Mesa, and Chimney Rock. Three guided O’Keeffe tours are offered: O’Keeffe Landscape Tour (motorbus), O’Keeffe Landscape Trail Ride (horseback), and Walk in Georgia O’Keeffe’s Footsteps (hike). Also, “Georgia O’Keeffe: Line, Color and Com-position” is a new exhibition running through September 8 at the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum in Santa Fe. To find out more about day trips, overnight stays, and other programs offered at Ghost Ranch, call 877-804-4678 or visit ghostranch.org.

— John Biscello

Photographs: “Georgia O’Keeffe, On the Roof,

Ghost Ranch House” by Maria Chabot, courtesy

Georgia O’Keeffe Museum. D.H. Lawrence photo

courtesy of Nita Murphy and The Southwest

Research Center of UNM, from DH Lawrence and

New Mexico, edited by Keith Sagar.

Continued from page 17

22 HighCountry 2015

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HOTEL LA FONDA de TAOSThe oldest hotel in Taos is new again. In the heart of

the historic district on Taos Plaza, La Fonda offers 21st Century amenities while preserving its rich Southwestern

roots and ambience. Home to Noula’s Starbucks Coffee Shop, R.C. Gorman Navajo Gallery, and the D.H. Lawrence

“Forbidden Art Collection.” 19 rooms, 5 suites, and our Plaza Penthouse. Friendly, personal service. Walking distance to

galleries, museums, shopping, entertainment, fine dining.

108 South Plaza, Taos, New Mexico www.LaFondaTaos.com 800.833.2211 575.758.2211

THE HISTORIC TAOS INNExperience Southwestern charm and history at The Historic Taos Inn in the heart of Taos. Acclaimed by National

Geographic Traveler as “One of America’s Great Inns,” listed on the National and

New Mexico Registers of Historic Places. 44 rooms and suites, most with Pueblo-

style fireplaces. Award-winning Doc Martin’s Restaurant and Adobe Bar on premises. Happy hour 4-6 Mon-Fri; free live music nightly.

125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, New Mexicotaosinn.com 575.758.2233

PHOTO COURTESY WWW.HOTELSTFRANCIS.COM / JEFF CAVEN

ST. JAMES HOTELWhere western history – and the paranormal

– come alive. The historic St. James Hotel, built in 1872, has hosted a smorgasbord

of famous outlaws and Wild West legends including Clay Allison, William F. Cody and Wyatt Earp. Today, it continues its tradition

with fine dining and comfortable rooms and a restored western restaurant and bar. Ghosts, each with their own

obsessions and rituals, are said to still haunt the place.

617 South Collison, Cimarron, New Mexico, 87714www.exstjames.com 888.376.2664 575.376.2664

Historic Hotels

THE SOLITARY ANGLER“Quality Year-Round Fly Fishing Without The Crowds.” Guided fly fishing trips to wild river canyons, Rocky

Mountain lakes and streams. Best guides and best private water around. Hacienda and cabins available on the Cimarron River. Owner Van Beacham is the author of Flyfisher’s Guide to New Mexico.

www.TheSolitaryAngler.com 226C North Pueblo Rd, Taos866-502-1700

BIG RIVER RAFTINGThe ultimate NM Whitewater Rafting Adventure! Big River Rafts has been guiding NM rafting trips and tours since 1983. Your adventure begins just 20 minutes south of Taos. We offer rafting trips to suit every need, every skill level. Relaxing dinner floats or exciting rapid rides down the Rio Grande, delicious picnics. Mild to wild rafting trips. Operating March-Nov. Large & small groups welcome.

www.BigRiverRafts.com bigriverbilly@yahoocom

1-800-RIVER-GO 575-758-9711

LOS RIOS RIVER RUNNERSWhitewater Rafting in Taos, Santa Fe, and Albuquerque for over 40 Years. New Mex-ico’s oldest and most expe-rienced rafting company!

Los Rios has more access to NM rivers than any other rafting company, and the best-trained, most fun raft-ing guides. • White-knuckle whitewater trips on the Rio Grande • Star-filled river camping in the majestic Rio Chama canyon • Serene feast and float trips with Native Pueblo Indian guides

www.LosRiosRiverRunners.com info@losriosriverrunners.com 575-776-8854

Outfitters

Hot air balloon rides into and over the Rio Grande Gorge since 1991. Flights at dawn with a ride into the desert outside Taos,

inflation of the huge lighter-than-air craft, boarding the basket and floating upward with an experi-enced, licensed pilot. Champagne brunch and celebration included. Call for reservations and rates.

www.TaosBallooning.com ken@taosballooning.com 575-751-6098

ESKE’SPARADISE BALLOONS

PUEBLO BALLOONCOMPANYWe fly the scenic Rio Grande Gorge and Rio Grande del Norte National Monument – the perfect way to celebrate special occasions. We drop down into the Gorge and kiss the river for the most thrill-ing balloon ride anywhere. Experienced, safe, and knowledgeable crew and FAA certified pilots. Breath- taking wildlife and sunrises; champagne toast. Hotel pick-up. Book your trip today!

www.PuebloBalloon.cominfo@puebloballoon.com575-751-9877

25hawk-media.com

Angel Fire Resort Golf & Country Club – Angel Fire, NMTake your game to a higher level – like 8,700 feet – at Angel Fire Resort Golf Course and

Country Club. Situated within the Sangre de Cristo mountains of northern New Mexico,

our 18-hole champ ionship course offers challenging golf and spectacular views at

every turn. With a $17 million, state-of-the-art Country Club clubhouse, Angel Fire

Resort boasts over 6,600 yards of unforgettable high-altitude golf. Affordable spring

& summer golf and lodging packages are available. Fees: $59-$89, including cart.

Golf & Lodging Package Information: 855.926.3937 / Pro Shop: 575.377.4488 www.AngelFireResort.com

Rio Grande Club and Resort – South Fork, CO Golf at one of the finest courses in America. Players enjoy the award-winning combi-

nation of sandstone outcroppings, pine, aspen and cottonwood groves, a challenging

shot over the mighty Rio Grande – and you’re only halfway home. The back nine

consists of dramatic elevations, serene Alder Creek and a truly mountain style nine

that will seal the deal for a return visit. Fine dining, weddings, private parties, or

corporate outings. Timbers Restaurant – Lunch daily 11-2; dinner Fri-Sat 5-8. Big River Grille – Lunch daily 11-2; dinner Fri-Sat 5-8. Member Happy Hour Fridays 4-6.

Golf Shop open daily 8-5. 719.873.1995 Pro Shop carries apparel, equipment and

accessories. 719-873-1997 www.RioGrandeClubAndResort.com

Taos Country Club – Taos, NMPlay one of the top rated golf courses in New Mexico in a spectacular setting between

the Rocky Mountains and the Sangre de Cristos. Measuring 7,302 yards from the back

tees, this Jep Wille links-style design is open to the public and has gently rolling

terrain with four sets of tees to make the course enjoyable to all. The Terrace Bar

and Grill is a great place to finish your round: a gorgeous patio, delectable food, and

refreshing beverages; or hold a special event for your family or company. We have PGA

Professionals, a fully-equipped pro shop and practice facility. 575.758.7300 www.TaosCountryClub.com

On The Green

Towa Golf Resort – Santa Fe, NMTowa Golf Club is part of the AAA Four Diamond Buffalo Thunder Resort and Casino,

which is located only 15 short minutes north of the renowned Santa Fe Plaza. Towa is a

magnificient collection of 27 holes designed by Hale Irwin and Bill Phillips. With a full

array of amenities including a driving range, putting greens, full service club house with

food and beverage service, pro shop, professional staff and grounds, Towa is a golfer’s par-

adise featuring the only island green in New Mexico. Please call for tee times and rates.

505.455.9000 or toll-free 877.465.3489 www.BuffaloThunderResort.com

26 HighCountry 2015

TAOSBENT STREET CAFE & DELI – 120 Bent Street, Taos. 575-758-5787. A local favorite with menu selections to satisfy every palate. Served in a relaxed atmosphere featuring a year-round heat-ed patio and outdoor terrace. Omelettes, eggs Benedict, gourmet French toast, excellent sandwiches, creative salads and homemade soups and desserts. Daily specials, chicken or beef burrito and tamale plates. Vegetarian- & vegan- friendly. Beer and wine. Open 7 days for breakfast, lunch, and Sunday brunch. BentStreetDeli.com

DOC MARTIN’S RESTAURANT – 1/2 block N of Taos Plaza in the Historic Taos Inn, 575-758-1977. Fresh, casual dining in a historic setting. Winner of Wine Spec-tator’s “Best Of Award Of Excellence” for 27 consecutive years. Innovative regional New American Cuisine using the freshest local ingredients, specializing in organic vegetables, meats and fish, includingfavorites like buffalo, elk, trout. Home-made desserts. Lunch, dinner, weekend brunch. Reservations recommended. DocMartinsRestaurant.com

EL GAMAL – Behind Taos Plaza, 112 Doña Luz. 575-613-0311. Serving conscious vegetarian Middle Eastern food, made from scratch. Hummus, falafel, baba ganoush, shakshuka, labane, dolmas. Daily specials, soups, house-made pita, desserts. Gluten-free and vegan options;

Turkish coffee and espresso drinks; beer and wine. Family-friendly: kids’ playroom, pool table, free wi-fi. Patio seating. Call for takeout. Like us on Facebook. Open Mon-Wed 9-5; Thurs-Sat 9-9; Sun 11-3.

FARMHOUSE CAFE AND BAKERY – Three miles north of Taos Plaza at Overland Ranch. 575-758-LOVE (5863). Farm-to-table, serving lo-cal organic cuisine. Legendary grass-fed burger, green chile chicken stew, daily quiche. House-made soups, salads and a variety of vegetarian, vegan, and glu-ten-free options. Incredible assortment of artisan breads, croissants, tarts, muffins, cheesecakes, cookies and more. Specialty coffees and fresh organic grab-and-go items. Open 8 am-5 pm daily. Sunday Brunch. Robert Mirabal and Friends every Saturday night this summer. Visit us online for full menu:FarmhouseCafeAndBakery.com

THE GORGE BAR and GRILL – 103 East Taos Plaza. 575-758-8866. Stop by The Gorge and try our juicy burgers, hand-shaken Margaritas, or fresh oysters – something for everyone in your family. Enjoy the Best Happy Hour in Taos while sitting on our patio overlooking the Taos Plaza. We feature TWO happy hours: Monday thru Friday 3–5:30 pm and again 9-10 pm. And be sure to check out the new hot spot below The Gorge: “Pärcht Bottleshop & Bites.” Visit us online

TheGorgeBarAndGrill.com and Parcht.com

GUADALAJARA GRILL – Two locations in Taos: Southside – 1384 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos: 575-751-0063. Northside – 822 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, El Prado: 575-737-0816. “Our secret sauce makes the difference!” Authentic Mexican food in New Mexico. Seafood, Chile Rellenos, Azteca Quesadilla, Cama-rones a la Diabla, Ceviche and so much more. Beer, Wine, Agave Margaritas. Voted “Best Of Taos” 2015: Best Mexican Food, Best Fast Food. Open 10:30 am to 9 pm 7 days a week. Full menu online: GuadalajaraGrillTaos.com

LA CUEVA CAFE – 135 Paseo del Pueb-lo Sur, Taos. 575-758-7001. The best flavor of Mexican food and New Mexico. Rellenos, combination plate, fajitas and much more. Gluten free, vegetarian and seafood dishes. Open 7 days a week, 10 am–9 pm. TripAdvisor and Yelp awarded. Full menu online: LaCuevaCafe.com

RAW TAOS – “Raw to the People!” 818 C Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, Taos, NM 575-770-5106. Taos’ Juice Bar serving unique organic raw fare including cold pressed drinks, custom smoothies, nut mylks, coffee, matté, chocolate drinks, specials from around the world like lucu-ma con leche and chia fresca. Open Mon-day thru Saturday 8 am- 4 pm. Locally

Time to Dine

27hawk-media.com

owned & operated, we also support local organic agriculture. rawtaos@gmail.com or facebook.com/rawtaos

RICKY’S – Located 2 1/2 blocks south of Taos Plaza at 312 Paseo del Pueblo Sur. 575-758-1156. A locals’ favorite. Break-fast served all day. Breakfast, lunch and dinner specials daily. Great New Mexican and American dishes at family-oriented prices. Gluten-free and vegetarian chiles. Burgers made with fresh local beef daily. Kids’ menu. 80% of our dishes available vegetarian. Dine in or take out. Open 7 days, 7 am to 8 pm.

SABROSO RESTAURANT & BAR – 470 State Hwy. 150, Arroyo Seco, NM. 575-776-3333. A fine dining restaurant on the road to Taos Ski Valley. Sabroso, which means delicious, is housed in a historic 150-year-old adobe in the tiny village of Arroyo Seco. Famous for our wood-grilled steaks, fully-stocked bar, and wine cellar. Patio dining in summer with outdoor bar, covered tables. Enjoy one of our fabulous margaritas, listen to musicians on our patio, or enjoy the comforts of our cozy indoor bar area. Annual 4th of July pig roast. Plan your event in our plum orchard. Open daily 4:30 - 9 pm. SabrosoTaos.com

RED RIVERBRETT’S BISTRO – At Lifts West, 201 W. Main Street in Red River. 575-754-9959. Serving the best steaks, seafood and Rocky Mountain trout for over 25 years. Daily specials, kids’ menu. Catering available. Cold Beer and Fine Wines. Like us on Facebook. Open daily 11 am–9 pm. BrettsBistro.com

SUNDANCE – High Street at Copper King. 575-754-2971. Same great food, same great service. Celebrating our 42nd year. Steaks, salads, excellent Mexican food. Great sopaipillas! Specials include shrimp fajitas and quesadillas. Frozen wine Margaritas. Reservations welcome. Call for to-go orders. Open nightly 5 pm.

ANGEL FIREANGEL FIRED PIZZA – Located on the second floor of the Mountain View Mall (next to the Lowe’s Valley Market). 575-377-2774. Voted “Best of Angel Fire.” We serve specialty pizzas, baked pastas, calzones, and salads all in a fun, relaxed atmosphere. Gluten-free options available. Wide selection of handcrafted beers and fine wines also available. Dine in or take out. Open Tues – Sun. Daily Happy Hour.

H2 UPTOWN – 48 North Angel Fire Rd. 575-377-1200. Casual mountain style dining with an upscale experience, where you’re treated like family. Serving special-ly seasoned charbroiled steaks, wild game, pastas, fine wine, draft beer and much more. An unforgettable experience at an affordable price. Open for lunch and din-ner. Reservations for dinner are suggested. Also visit Café Expresso, 575-377-6669, for hearty breakfast and lunch, or Hatcha’s Grill, 575-377-7011 for home-made red or green chile enchiladas.

PUB ‘N GRUB – Located at the Village Center Plaza, 52 N. Angel Fire Road. 575-377-2335. A family-friendly pub with 20 craft brews on tap including a draft style root beer. Gourmet dining in a rustic and casual environment. Best steaks in town. Open every day during winter ski season, 5 to 9 pm.

CIMARRONSAINT JAMES HOTEL – 17th and Col-lison in Cimarron. Reservations recom-mended. 575-376-2664. Landmark on the Santa Fe Trail, the St. James Hotel has been known for its fine dining since 1872. Menu includes hand-cut steaks, New Mexico favorites, homemade soups and desserts. Select from a variety of beers, fine wines or a specially-made cocktail, all served from the antique bar. New breakfast menu. Open daily 7 am–9 pm. For menu and information, visit us online at ExStJames.com

in the Historic Taos Inn125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte

DocMartinsRestaurant.com575 758 1977

Foodsthat celebrate

region and season

Since 1936

28 HighCountry 2015

May16 High Mountain Half Marathon / 5K, Red River16-18 Rio Pueblo Open Disc Golf Tournament, Sipapu21-25 Motorcycle Rally, Red River28 Taos Plaza Live, through September 329 Summer Chairlift Rides, ongoing, Angel Fire29-31 Red River Classic Car Show30-31 Fishing Derby, Red River30-31 Sipapu Shindig31 Red Willow Farmer’s Market, Taos Pueblo, Wednesdays

June4-10 South Fork Fishing Tournament4-27 Taos Opera Festival5-7 Folk n’ Bluegrass Festival, Pagosa Springs 5-7 20th Annual Red River Classic Car Show5-7 Little Britches Youth Rodeo, South Fork5-7 AAFPO Weekend, Angel Fire6 Flyfishing Clinic, ongoing through Sept., Angel Fire Resort6 New Mexico Trials Association Rounds 5 & 6, Sipapu Resort6-7 New Mexico Enduro Cup, Angel Fire Resort7 OSO High XC Mountain Bike Competition, AF Bike Park8-12 Angel Fire Junior Golf Camp, AF Resort13 River & Brews Blues Fest, Red River13 San Antonio Feast Day, Taos Pueblo13-14 15th Annual Trout Derby, Clayton Lake State Park, Clayton13-14 OSO High XC Mountain Bike Competition, AF Resort14 South Fork Farmers Market, ongoing14 XTERRA Pagosa Springs Triathalon15-16 Thomas the Tank, Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad, Chama19 Moreno Valley Farmers Market begins, Eagle Nest19-21 Balloons Over Angel Fire19-21 Fine Art & Wine Festival, Red River19-21 Chile Challenge Mountain Bike Pro GRT, Angel Fire20 Kids’ Fishing Clinic, Tucker Pond, South Fork20 Nashville Comes to Eagle Nest Lake – Music Festival20 3rd Annual Bear Benefit Rib Cook Off, Eagle Nest20 Pagosa Springs Endurance Ride20 Missoula Children’s Theater, Angel Fire – “Rapunzel”21-Aug 9 Taos School of Music Summer Concerts24 San Juan Feast Day, Taos Pueblo24 South Fork Canoe and Kayak Race25 Summer Chairlift Rides, ongoing, Taos Ski Valley26-28 NMOHVA Sipapu Shindig Bike Ride, Sipapu Resort27 Toast of Taos Wine Festival and Golf Tournament27-28 Rodeo de Taos27-28 Taos Solar Music Festival, Kit Carson Park27-28 Rough Riders 200 Road Biking Tour, Angel Fire28-29 Territorial Days, Chama

July 1 Full Moon Williams Lake Hike, Taos Ski Valley2 Moonlight Durango & Rio Grande Train Excursion, ongoing3 Red, White, and Blue Bike Fest & Trail Ride, AF Resort4 Arroyo Seco July 4th Parade4 Fourth of July Parades, Picnics & Ceremonies, all areas4 Angel Fire Adventure Marathon, AF Resort4 Women’s Downhill Ride Gravity Mountain Biking Day5, 12, 19 South Fork Summer Concert Series, ongoing weekends9 -15 South Fork Fishing Tournament10-12 Taos Pueblo Pow Wow11 Pagosa Full and Half Duathlon for kids11-12 Sipapu Summer Slam Disc Golf Tournament11-12 Angel Fire ArtsFest17-19 Las Fiestas de Taos, Taos Plaza17-19 Logger Days Festival, South Fork

18 Burris & Sons Rodeo Series, South Fork18-19 Mountain West Vintage Motorcycle Trials Assoc., Sipapu18-19 First Annual Wild West Days, Cimarron21 Summer concert series, Pagosa Springs, ongoing23-25 Angel Fire HSF Golf Invitational25 Burris & Sons Rodeo Series, South Fork25 Explore The Arts Festival, Cimarron25 Chimney Rock Festival of Crafts & Culture, Pagosa Springs25-26 High Country Arts and Crafts Festival, Eagle Nest25-26 Feast Days of Santiago and Santa Ana, Taos Pueblo31-Aug 2 Cowboy Fast Draw Colorado State Championship, Pagosa30-Aug 2 2015 Archuleta County Fair, Pagosa

August1 Up and Over 10K Trail Run, Taos Ski Valley1 Dulcimer Festival, Red River1 Taos Home and Garden Tour1 Burris & Sons Rodeo Series, South Fork1 Gan Fondo Bicycle Race, starting in Taos2 5th Maverick Ranch Rodeo, Cimarron2 Midnight Durango & Rio Grande Excursion 2 Chama Days6-12 South Fork Fishing Tournament7 Buckaroo Ball, Red River 7-9 Four Corners BMW Meet & Greet, Pagosa Springs7-9 Rhythms on the Rio Music Festival, South Fork9-10 Summer Arts and Crafts Fair, Taos12-15 Hot Chili Days, Cool Mountain Nights, Red River19 19th Annual Taos Autumn Run Car Show, Taos Plaza21-Sept 6 Music From Angel Fire, 32nd Season21-22 Telluride Blues & Brews and The Durango Blues Train22-23 Cimarron Cowboy Music & Poetry Gathering, Cimarron22 Devil Mountain Ultra 50/50 Marathon, Pagosa Springs

2015 Summer Calendar

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29 Full Moon Williams Lake Hike, Taos Ski Valley29 A Russian Night in Taos, Taos Art Museum30-Sept 2 Angel Fire Bike Park Free Ride Festival

September 4-6 Four Corners Folk Festival, Pagosa5-6 Angel Fire Parade of Homes5-7 Fine Arts and Crafts Fair, Taos5-7 5th Annual Gravity Games Mountain Bike Fest, AF Resort5-10 TPA Motorcycle Offroad Event, South Fork6 NM Trials Association Motorcycle Rally, Sipapu Resort10-12 Michael Hearne’s Big Barn Dance, Kit Carson Park, Taos11-13 Bavarian Weekend BMW Motorcycle Rally, Sipapu Resort12-13 Rio Costilla Valley Studio Tour, Costilla 18-21 Disc Golf State Championship, Sipapu Resort18-20 ColorFest Weekend 2015 Balloon Fest, Pagosa Springs18-20 Shortgrass Music Festival, Cimarron19-27 Fishfest, Eagle Nest Lake25-27 Music on the Rocks Festival, Sipapu Resort25-27 Aspencade Performing Arts & Crafts Fair, Red River25-Oct 4 Taos Fall Arts Festival26 Mountain Chile Cha Cha Festival, Pagosa Springs26 Quick Draw and Live Art Auction, TCA26-27 Old Taos Trade Fair, Martinez Hacienda26-27 Drew Judycki Memorial Disc Golf Tournament, Red River27 Full Moon Williams Lake Hike, Taos Ski Valley27 Enduro Cup Championship Mountain Bike Race, AF Resort29-30 San Geronimo Eve and Day, Taos Pueblo

October3-4 Taos Wool Festival9-11 Oktoberfest in Red River10-11 Pagosa Makers Expo & Tour16 Annual Chile Cook-Off, South Fork16-18 Closing Weekend bash, Angel Fire Bike Park23-25 Taos Mountain Balloon Rally

InfoANGEL FIRE 800-446-8117CHAMA 800-477-0149CIMARRON 575-376-2417DURANGO 970-247-3500EAGLE NEST 800-494-9117PAGOSA SPRINGS 800-252-2204RED RIVER 800-348-6444SANTA FE 800-777-2489SOUTH FORK 800-571-0881 TAOS COUNTY 800-732-8267TAOS PUEBLO 575-758-1028TAOS SKI VALLEY 800-517-9816

Dates subject to change. Check with local chambers for updated information.

30 HighCountry 2015

Music From Angel FireMusic from Angel Fire celebrates its 32nd summer music festival August 21-September 6, 2015. An impres-sive array of works from the great Baroque, Classical, Romantic and Contemporary masters is performed in 14 concerts by renowned classical musicians. David Ludwig is the 2015 Composer-in-Residence, and the world premiere of his composition “Rule of Three” will be performed in Angel Fire, NM, by his new bride and former MFAF Young Artist Bella Hristova along with two of her mentors, Ida Kavafian and Steven Tenenbom on August 26. Festival concerts are presented in Angel Fire, Taos, Las Vegas and Raton, NM. Tickets range from $20 - $40. For more information visit www.MusicFromAngelFire.org

Telluride Blues & Brews FestivalSeptember 18-20, 2015. One of the most scenic and intimate music festi-vals in the country takes place in the world-famous resort town of Telluride, CO, in the heart of the Rocky Moun-tains. Blues & Brews is a three-day celebration of blues, funk, jam bands, indie, rock, gospel and soul perfor-mances – accompanied by some of the best microbreweries in the country, a wide variety of food and craft vendors, children’s activities, late night shows, and much, much more. “Out of the 90 different countries I’ve been to, I’ve never seen anything more beautiful than what you have here.” — The late B.B. Kingwww.TellurideBlues.com

Shortgrass Music Festival September 20, 2015. Hailed by the Chicago Tribune as a “gifted young pianist who is clearly going places,” Ji-Yong has been lauded from a young age for his compelling musical presence and impressive technical command. He is a much sought-after soloist, appearing with some of the world’s finest orchestras and cham-ber groups. Ji will perform live at the United Methodist Church in Cimarron, NM on Sunday, September 20 at 4 pm. www.ShortgrassFestival.com

Fiestas de Taos July 17-19, 2015. The Annual Fiestas de Taos weekend fills Taos Plaza with Spanish Folk music, northern New Mexican cuisine and native dance. Four centuries of Taos culture are celebrated with high-spirited fervor. Share and enjoy delicious cuisine, traditional music and fellowship, while honoring the cultural uniqueness of Taos. Be sure to catch the famous Historical Parade on Sunday afternoon – where mounted conquistadores mingle with tribal dancers, French fur trappers and eye-popping floats. !Que Vivan Las Fiestas! www.FiestasDeTaos.com

Michael Hearne’s 13thAnnual Big Barndance Music FestivalSeptember 10-12, 2015 – This one-of-a-kind, world class music festival will take place in Kit Carson Park in Taos, NM. A listening room experience in a festival setting, come experience some of the most diverse and well-respected names in Traditional Country, Americana and Folk music… along with some good old-fashioned two step “boot scootin’.” Performers include Gary P. Nunn, Michael Hearne, Terri Hendrix and Lloyd Maines, Trout Fishing In America, Chuck Cannon, Walt Wilkins, Susan Gibson, Shake Russell, Bob Cheevers, South by Southwest, The Rifters and many more! For information and tickets: www.MichaelHearne.com

Festival Favorites

Ji-Yong PHOTO: CHRISTIAN STEINERCOURTESY YOUNG CONCERT ARTISTS

Durango Blues TrainAugust 21-22, 2015. Ride the Durango Blues Train aboard the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. Presented by the Telluride Blues & Brews Festival, this unique live music event takes place aboard the historic steam train in Durango, CO, featuring two nights of music with two full bands, and four solo and duo acts. Tickets now on sale online at www.DurangoBluesTrain.com

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Parade Homes of Angel Fire

September 5 & 6, 2015Saturday 9-5 ~ Sunday 10-2

Sangre de Cristo Homebuilders Associationwww.sdchba.com

Sept 10-12, 2015KIT CARSON PARK, TAOS, NM

Michael Hearne’s13th Annual

BIGBARN DANCEMUSIC FESTIVAL

GARY P. NUNN • TERRI HENDRIX & LLOYD MAINESCHUCK CANNON • LARI WHITE • WALT WILKINSTROUT FISHING IN AMERICA • BOB LIVINGSTONMICHAEL HEARNE & S x SW • SUSAN GIBSON

SHAKE RUSSELL • BOB CHEEVERS • BILL HEARNE TRIOTHE RIFTERS…and more. TICKETS & INFO:

www.MichaelHearne.com/BigBarndance

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