MakeupIts Birth and Course Through History

History and Origin• Archaeological evidence shows the use of castor oil in ancient Egypt as a protective balm and skin

creams made of beeswax, olive oil, and rosewater by the Romans and Greeks. • Ancient Egyptians used a type of rouge to stain their lips and cheeks. To create this staining effect

they squeezed out purple-red color from iodine and bromine. Unfortunately, this combination of deadly ingredients led to serious diseases and came to be known as ‘the kiss of death’.

• Women wore white lead and chalk on their faces ,in Greco-Roman society, to whiten the skin, and kohl to line the eyes.

• Persian women used henna dyes to stain their hair and faces with the belief that these dyes enabled them to summon the majesty of the earth.

• The red coloring in makeup was achieved by using red ochre. Ochre has been used since prehistoric times and is a pigment made from naturally tinted clay - hydrated iron oxide.

• Henna, a dye obtained from the leaves and shoots of the henna shrub and native to parts of Africa, was used to paint their nails and color their hair. The color and condition of nails have long been an indication of social status. Henna was also used as a healing plant and for cleansing and cooling the skin.

European Middle Ages• During the European middle ages, pale skin was a sign of wealth and sixth century women sought drastic measures to achieve

that look by bleeding themselves.• During the Italian Renaissance, lead paint was used to lighten the face, which was very damaging to the wearer. Aqua Toffana

was a popular face powder named for its creator, Signora Toffana.• From the Middle Ages until the end of the 19th century, pale skin was in.• Only prostitutes and lower class women would have dared use color on their lips, cheeks or eyes. Instead, women painted

their faces, necks and chests with a lead and vinegar mixture known as ceruse.• Queen Elizabeth I of England was a well-known user of white lead, with which she created a look known as "the Mask of

Youth" .• Women who used the lead-based ceruse often ended up with muscle paralysis or in their graves.

• In 1770, the British Parliament passed a law condemning lipstick, stating that women found guilty of seducing men into matrimony by a cosmetic means could be tried for witchcraft.

• The higher class a person was, the more leisure time he or she had to spend indoors, which kept the skin pale. European men and women often used white powder on their skin to look more aristocratic.

• Local pharmacists made many cosmetics and common ingredients included white lead paint, arsenic, mercury and nitric acid. Additionally, even though women were aware it was poisonous, belladonna was used to make their eyes appear more luminous.

• Victorians abhorred makeup and associated its use with prostitutes and actresses (many considered them one and the same) and visible hint of tampering with one's natural color would be looked upon with disdain.

• As a beauty regimen, a woman would pluck her eyebrows, massage castor oil into her eyelashes, use rice powder to dust her nose, and buff her nails to a shine.

• Lipstick was not used, but clear pomade would be applied to add sheen. However some of these products contained a dye to discretely enhance natural lip color.

• For a healthy look, red beet juice would be rubbed into the cheeks, or the cheeks would be pinched . For bright eyes, a drop of lemon juice in each eye would do the trick.

1900’s-1920’s• In 1909 Gordon Selfridge had opened the first cosmetics counter to allow women to ‘try before you buy’

and by the 1920s, every pharmacy and department store in the world had makeup counters.• The real evolution actually began during the 1910's. By then, women made their own form of mascara by

adding hot beads of wax to the tips of their eyelashes. Some women would use petroleum jelly for this purpose.

• The first mascara formulated was named after Mabel, the sister of its creator, T. L. Williams, who utilized this method. This mascara is known today as Maybelline.

• During this decade, the first pressed powders were introduced which included a mirror and puff for touchups.

• Pressed powder blush followed soon after.• The lipstick metal case, invented by Maurice Levy, became popular. • Nivea cream made its appearance in Germany, and companies,

in order to compete, began creating creams consisting of Vaseline mixed with fragrance.• To help with sagging jowls and double-chins, women could purchase

for wear a weird-looking contraption with chin straps, which obviously did not work.

• However, the Victorian look remained in fashion until mass makeup marketing came about during the 1920's.

1920’s• Striding through our history of makeup, In the

1920s, Coco Chanel invented the Flapper style, which embraced dark eyes, red lipstick, red nail polish and the suntan.

• Hollywood stars like Clara Bow made the cupids bow lip popular and the image of the 1920s woman with her bow lips and dark eyes peering out from under her cloche hat has defined the look to this day.

• Eyes – kohled eyeshadow for the more daring girls• Eyebrows – Plucked for the first time and drawn

downward towards the temple.• Lips – lips were smaller than the natural outline

and fashioned into the ‘cupid’s bow’ shape.• Lashes – mascara was the new rage and no

woman could resist enhancing her lashes.• Rouge – Applied in circles rather than angular. The

effect was a rounded face.• Nails – The big name was Revlon and the popular

style was the ‘moon manicure’ leaving the tip in painted.

1930’s• The first eyelash curler came on the scene, called Kurlash.

Mascara in cake and cream form was extremely vogue.• Cream eye-shadows began to appear from the big

cosmetic names like Max factor who also launched the decade with his Lip Gloss and later in 1937 – Pancake water soluble makeup. Helena Rubinstein launched the first commercial water-proof mascara in 1939.

• Eyes – blues, greens, pinks, purples applied lightly and in pear shapes beyond the natural eye.

• Eyebrows – plucked out of existence and redrawn in pencil thin lines – arched more attractively upwards.

• Lips – the cupids bow was replaced by thinner horizontal lines with upper lips enlarged and fuller. Popular colors are raspberry reds and maroon.

• Lashes – mascara moved to the lower lashes only which lifted eyes out.

• Rouge -The triangle was the new look and contouring faces was in vogue.

• Nails – the moon manicure remains and nail and lip colors sold to match.

1940’s• The 1940s has a look all to its own. Confident up-do hairstyles, redder than red lipsticks and nails

and prominent arched eyebrows.• Another phenomenon of the 1940s war were liquid or cosmetic stockings• 1940s beauty guides encouraged women to use a pencil to draw an outline ‘outside’ their natural

lip line to enlarge her mouth. As most lipsticks were matte, Vaseline was used to add a little luster and gloss.

• Foundation – a shade darker than your natural.• Powder – plenty of powder still, a lighter shade and patted on.• Eyes -light medium browns with beige highlighting. Understated.• Eyebrows – much thicker than in the 1930s. Vaseline used to

groom to shape.• Lips – Reds and orange reds were the prerequisite• Lashes – cake mascaras like Maybelline – still applied with a brush.• Rouge – rose colors applied out from the cheek apples.• Nails – Filed to a point with the tips left unpainted.

1950’s• when conjuring up the 1950s makeup look it’s

difficult not to see the faces of glamorous beauty icons like – Elizabeth Taylor, Natalie Wood, Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn, Doris Day, Ava Gardner.

• Skin improvement cosmetics began to sell as fast as the old traditional ‘face paint’.

• 1949-50 Hazel Bishop unveiled to much excitement the first non smear lipstick. Revlon followed this with their own by own non-smear lipstick’ in 1953.

• Foundation – A cream ivory base, and cream or liquid foundation near to natural skin color.

• Powders – brushed on flesh colored powder to set.• Eyes – subtle shadows on lid – taped out to

shimmering pale brow.• Eyeliner – the wing effect became popular in the

1950s.• Lashes – subtle and applied usually to the upper

lashes.• Rouges – pastel and rose colors applied to the

apple of the cheek.• Lips – many tutorials advised creating a ‘smile’

effect with lipsticks. Achieved by drooping.

1960’s• The iconic 1960s models Twiggy and Jean Shrimpton

modeled their makeup products under the banner of The London Look.

• There were three distinct looks in the 1960s, the classic, the mod and the hippy. The mod look is the cosmetic look most remembered from this beauty era.

• Eyes – eyeliner was the most important makeup tool. Instead of cats eye effect, liner was doubled up at the end of the lid.White eyeliner drawn down over upper lid to inner corner of eye.

• Eyeshadow – the popular palette was blue,grey and white.

• Eyelashes – placed on both top and bottom for a real retro ‘flapper’ effect.

• Powder – Lots of powder in the early 1960s to just a dab of translucent by the end of the decade.

• Lips – very pale pinks and reds outlined with a pencil.• In the Swinging Sixties in contrast with paler eye-

shadows, foundations and rouges all emphasis went on eyeliners and lashes. False eyelashes applied with lashings of mascara were made particularly popular by Twiggy.

Basic Face Shapes

Different Types of Eyes

Color Theory• Color theory: in the visual

arts is practical guidance to color mixing and the visual impacts of color combinations. A make-up artist should understand the Basics of Color Theory in order to know how colors work with each other, and how one color will influence another by placing it next to, or on top of each other, or even how the color will result in when you mix them together.

ByAaliya Gujral

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