Egypt s ees its e lf, and is s een, as part of Africa and als o the Middle Eas t.

The Mus lim Arab invas ion of 640-2 was followed by a very gradual convers ion to Is lam. Nominally part of the Ottoman Empire from 1517 – 1914, Egypt was brie fly invaded by the French in 1798/9, and fought over by the Britis h. In the early 19th

century, nationalis t ruler Mohammed Ali initiated a major modernis ation programme. Egypt was occupied by the Britis h in 1882, a s overeign s tate in 1922,

and the Britis h finally le ft after World War II. In 1952 the monarchy was overthrown.

Egypt has a population of 70 million, 90% Mus lim and 10% Coptic Chris tian, o ther Chris tian and Jews . Minority e thnic groups inc lude Nubians , Bedouins , and Arab

and Nilotic nomads .

Dre s s His tory Dre s s His tory

A we a lth o f im a g e s e xis ts o f wom e n in P h a ra onic , G re e k a nd R om a n E g ypt, but A we a lth o f im a g e s e xis ts o f wom e n in P h a ra onic , G re e k a nd R om a n E g ypt, but from 4th to 18th c e nturie s AD a lm os t none . Th e uppe r, urba n c la s s e s during th e from 4th to 18th c e nturie s AD a lm os t none . Th e uppe r, urba n c la s s e s during th e

Ottom a n E m pire would h a ve worn s imila r s tyle s to th os e in Turke y. Th e vis ua l re c ord of Ottom a n E m pire would h a ve worn s imila r s tyle s to th os e in Turke y. Th e vis ua l re c ord of th e va rie ty of dre s s in E g ypt s ta rts with th e e a rly E urope a n tra ve lle rs .th e va rie ty of dre s s in E g ypt s ta rts with th e e a rly E urope a n tra ve lle rs .

R ic ha rd P ococke ’s pa inting s a re a quirky thoug h re lia ble re cord of dre s s in 1737 – ordina ry wome n, da nce rs , a nd a woma n on a donke y.

Early 16th century Cairo

“Wome n’s fa s h ions a re luxurious a nd th e y g o out a dorne d with je we lle ry: th e s e wom e n a re pre te ntious a nd pa y g re a t a tte ntion to h e a rs a y, to th e e xte nt th a t, if a ny one o f th e m wh o re fus e s to we a ve , s titc h or c ook, h e r h us ba nd h a s no c h oic e but to buy re a dy c ooke d food. F e w pe ople c ook th e ir food a t h om e , e xc e pt la rg e fa milie s … Th e wom e n e n joy g re a t fre e dom a nd inde pe nde nc e . Wh e n th e h us ba nd g oe s out to h is s h op, h is wife g e ts dre s s e d a nd pe rfum e d, a nd ride s h e r donke y to le is ure in th e town, vis iting h e r re la tive s a nd frie nds .”

al-Hasan al-Wazzani, Leo Africanus

Th is p ic ture proba b ly g ive s a m os t re a lis tic , le s s rom a ntic is e d, portra ya l o f Th is p ic ture proba b ly g ive s a m os t re a lis tic , le s s rom a ntic is e d, portra ya l o f Ca iro h a re m dre s s in th e m id 19th ce ntury be c a us e th e pa inte r wa s a wom a n wh o s pe nt Ca iro h a re m dre s s in th e m id 19th ce ntury be c a us e th e pa inte r wa s a wom a n wh o s pe nt

s om e m onth s in Ca iro – th e Am e ric a n a rtis t Ma rg a re tta B urr.s om e m onth s in Ca iro – th e Am e ric a n a rtis t Ma rg a re tta B urr.

IInterior of a Hareem, 1846, Women Art and Society, Whitney Chadwick, 1996nterior of a Hareem, 1846, Women Art and Society, Whitney Chadwick, 1996

Typica l outdoor dre s s worn by wom e n g oing to th e h a m a m (pub lic ba th s ).

Cairo, late 19th century, H Béchard

““Ve iling a nd th e h a re m s ys te m we re s oc ia l Ve iling a nd th e h a re m s ys te m we re s oc ia l c onve ntions c onne c te d with e c onom ic s ta nding . c onve ntions c onne c te d with e c onom ic s ta nding . Th e y h a d noth ing wh a ts oe ve r to do with Is la m .”Th e y h a d noth ing wh a ts oe ve r to do with Is la m .”

Introduction to Huda Shaarawi’s Harem Years, Margot Badran, 1986Introduction to Huda Shaarawi’s Harem Years, Margot Badran, 1986

Lowe r c la s s working wome n of Ca iro, e a rly 20th c e ntury.Postcard

“E g yptia n dre s s c a n be roug h ly d ivide d in two m a jor s ubdivis ions : th a t worn by th e m a s s e s of th e “tra d itiona l” s oc ia l c la s s e s , both rura l a nd urba n, a nd th a t worn by th e e duc a te d, m os tly urba n, c la s s e s . Th e firs t is a d is tinc tive ly na tive E g yptia n dre s s a nd th e s e c ond c orre s ponds in g e ne ra l fe a ture s with inte rna tiona l s tyle s . One wa y to d is ting uis h th e s e two s tyle s is to c a ll th e m “tra d itiona l” a nd “m ode rn” wh ic h in e s s e nc e is h ow m a ny E g yptia ns th ink o f th e m . To m a ke s uc h e a s y d is tinc tions , h owe ve r, g los s e s ove r th e fa c t th a t both a re conte m pora ry s tyle s a nd both inc lude ma ny fe a ture s th a t a re c ontinuous ly in th e proc e s s o f c h a ng e . B oth a ls o fo llow c e rta in c onve ntions th a t h a ve e xis te d for long pe riods o f time in E g yptia n s oc ie ty.”

Reveal and Conceal – Dress in Contemporary Egypt, Andrea B. Rugh, 1986

We a lth ie r wom e n o f Ca iro would a lwa ys h a ve h a d a c h oic e o f c lo th e s – b oth indoor a nd outdoor – c le a rly s e e n in

s h oe s a nd ve ils .

Orna me nte d b la ck ve ils . Only th e one on th e rig h t is re pre s e nte d in its wh ole le ng th .

Manners and Customs of the Modern Egyptians, E. W. Lane, 1836

Ca s ting His E ye – a little come dy outs ide th e ra ilwa y s ta tion in Ca iro. c . 1905.

Oriental Cairo, Douglas Sladen, 1911

P os tca rd, Edition P.Coustoulides, Alexandria, Egypt, c 1900. “Egyptian Humour,” 2nd

series, No. 5

Duriya F a h mi, fe minis t inte lle c tua l a nd write r (le ft), with frie nds , Ca iro, 1919-20.

coll. Mona Fikri, Daughters of the Nile, ed. Hind Wassef and Nadia Wassef, 2001

Ca ire ne wome n a t He liopolis ra ce s , 1938.

Thos. Cook and Sons, Women of All Lands, 1939

“Th e burko ’ (fa c e ve il) a nd s h oe s a re m os t c ommon in Ca iro, a nd a re a ls o worn by ma ny o f th e wome n th roug h out Lowe r

E g ypt; but in Uppe r E g ypt, th e burko ’ is ve ry s e ldom s e e n, a nd s h oe s a re s c a rc e ly le s s unc om mon. To s upply th e p la c e o f th e forme r, wh e n ne c e s s a ry, a portion o f th e tarhah is dra wn be fore th e fa c e , s o a s to c onc e a l ne a rly a ll th e c ounte na nc e e xc e pting one e ye . Ma ny o f th e wome n of th e lowe r orde rs , e ve n in th e

m e tropolis , ne ve r c onc e a l th e ir fa c e s .”

Manners and Customs of the Modern Egyptians, Edward William Lane, 1836

Huda S h a ´ra wi pub lic ly re m ove d h e r ve il a t Ca iro s ta tion in 1923 a fte r re turning from a n inte rna tiona l fe m in is t c onfe re nc e in R om e . Alth oug h th is s ym bolic g e s ture h a d m a s s ive re ve rbe ra tions in Ca iro a nd be yond, for th e fellāhī n (E g yptia n pe a s a nt), Mus lim or Copt,

it wa s life a s us ua l.

Coptic villa g e wome n of Uppe r E g ypt vis iting th e g ra ve s of th e ir de a d re la tive s in th e ir Coptic ce me te ry on Yom e l-Gh ita s , 1920-26.

Fellāhī n of Upper Egypt, Winifred S. Blackman, 1927

““Th e m ode rn Copt h a s be c om e from Th e m ode rn Copt h a s be c om e from h e a d to foot, in m a nne rs , la ng ua g e , h e a d to foot, in m a nne rs , la ng ua g e ,

a nd s pirit, a Mos le m , h owe ve r unwilling a nd s pirit, a Mos le m , h owe ve r unwilling h e m a y be to re c og nis e th e fa c t. His h e m a y be to re c og nis e th e fa c t. His

dre s s is like th a t o f th e re s t o f th e dre s s is like th a t o f th e re s t o f th e pe ople , e xc e pt h e pre fe rs da rke r pe ople , e xc e pt h e pre fe rs da rke r

m a te ria ls .”m a te ria ls .”

Upper Egypt – its people and its products, C.B. Klunzinger, 1878

Women in Political StruggleWomen in Political StruggleAc ce pta b le , re s pe c ta b le dre s s for wome n,

m a inly Mus lim a nd m iddle -c la s s , is re fle c te d in th e m a ny ima g e s o f wom e n involve d in

politic a l a nd s oc ia l c h a ng e .

Veiled women addressing a crowd in a Cairo street, 1919.INP news agency

““We a ring th e ve il d id not s top us doing th ing s .”We a ring th e ve il d id not s top us doing th ing s .”

regarding the 1919 Revolution, Margot Badran, 1986regarding the 1919 Revolution, Margot Badran, 1986

“Na tiona lis m , in E g ypt a s e ls e wh e re in th e Ara b world, wa s th e ke y to th e le g itima c y of th e wom e n’s m ove m e nt in th e e ye s of both politic ia ns a nd th e pub lic .”

Images of Women, Sarah Graham-Brown, 1988

Ara b Wome n’s Cong re s s , Ca iro, 1938.

Keystone, Women of All Lands, 1939

Huda S h a ‘ra wi with m e m be rs

o f th e E g yptia n F e minis t Union, 1940s .

Hawa’ al-gadida, Daughters of the Nile, 2001

Ce le bra ting politica l rig h ts g a ine d, 1956. Wome n a re ca rrying pos te rs of Huda S h a ‘ra wi a nd Umm S a be r, the firs t E g yptia n woma n ‘ma rtyr’ kille d by th e B ritis h in 1919.

Hawa’ al-gadida, Daughters of the Nile, 2001

Mode s a nd Code sMode s a nd Code s

“The re turn of the ve il, with a ve nom, in conte mpora ry E g ypt s pe a ks volume s . We s te rn vis itors mis ta ke nly a s s ume tha t the fe ma le Is la mic dre s s code is the tra ditiona l dre s s of E g yptia n wome n. While h is torica lly, the Is la mic dre s s code ha s influe nce d fa s h ion in E g ypt, the re is no s uch th ing a s a unive rs a l Is la mic uniform.

He a d-cove ring , the hijab, a s a form of re s is ta nce to We s te rn cultura l he g e mony is a re la tive ly ne w phe nome non. It g a ve a n e ntire ly ne w me a ning to ide ntity politics . The niqab h a s a ls o be come a s ymbol for communica tion, or la ck of it. An inc re a s ing numbe r of urba n wome n now s hroud the ms e lve s in s ha pe le s s g owns in mute d colours or s e ve re b la ck.”

No question of costume, Gamal Nkrumah, Al Ahram Weekly,

September 2002

Th e dre s s of mode rn urba n wome n cove rs th e full s pe c trum from full cove r-up with a niqab to fu ll cove r-up with fa ce ma ke -up.

“Th e full n iqa b with only a s lit for the e ye s [s e e ph oto] would ra re ly be s e e n in E g ypt toda y unle s s th e we a re r wa s ma king a politica l s ta te me nt.”

Ahdaf Soueif, Guardian Weekend, 2001, photo: Judah Passow/Network

“Th e re a re s e ve ra l ve rs ions of th e Is la mic cos tume , s ome of wh ich a re motiva te d le s s by re lig ion a nd more by fa s h ion. Olde r wome n, for e xa mple , find long e r dre s s e s a nd ha ir-cove ring turba ns more comforta b le a nd fla tte ring a nd if a s ke d will a ns we r th a t wh ile ins pire d by wh a t th e y cons ide r th e pre ce pts of th e ir re lig ion to dre s s mode s tly, th e y dre s s in th is wa y ma inly be ca us e it h a s be come fa s h iona b le in th e ir c irc le s to do s o. S uch a modifie d s tyle , th oug h re a ch ing to th e a nkle s a nd th e wris ts , is ch a ra c te riz e d ofte n by its c los e r fit. To puris ts of th e funda me nta lis t move me nt it is too re ve a ling of th e fig ure . Th e “s ta nda rd funda me nta lis t” ve rs ion flows from th e s houlde r to a nkle , us ua lly in one s ombre color, conce a ling th e outline s of th e fig ure a s comple te ly a s pos s ib le . The h e a d cove ring s urrounds the fa ce like a nun’s cowl a nd fa lls loos e ly to th e s h oulde r. A s ubs idiz e d ve rs ion of th is s tyle is s old by funda me nta lis t org a niz a tions for 8E L ($12), ma king it ve ry e conomica l.”

Family in Contemporary Egypt, Andrea B.Rugh, 1984 Abbas/Magnum 2001

Members of a Rosetta Women’s Club.

Insight Magazine, 2002

Members of Faculty and Administration, Misr International University.

TeenStuff magazine, 2002

Cairo wedding anniversary party.

Hisham Labib/Atef Naguib, Cleo magazine, 2002

Cairo women at a fundraising brunch.

Hisham Labib/Atef Naguib, Cleo magazine,2002

E ve ryda y C loth e sE ve ryda y C loth e s

Outdoors - in s tre e t, fa rm or de s e rt – E g ypt’s

d is tinc t e th n ic g roups s till we a r th e ir tra d itiona l c loth e s wh ile oth e r wome n c ontinue to

e xpre s s th e ir pe rs ona litie s th roug h ite ms a nd de ta ils o f

dre s s .

B e douin wome n.

The La nd of E g ypt, R obe rt F e dda n, 1939

Aba bde g irl from th e mounta in a re a ne a r th e R e d S e a .

Nicholas Biegman, 1991

Ca iro.

Randa Sheath, 2002

A s tre e t s ce ne in S iwa .

J e a n-Dominique Da lle t, Mé dite rra né e Ma g a z ine , 2001

Nub ia n wome n we a ring th e ir ch a ra c te ris tic tra ns pa re nt b la ck ove r-dre s s ove r a colourful unde r-dre s s .

Rick Strange and Steve Day, 1990s

Going to work, Ca iro.

Kristie Burns, MERIP, 1994

Indoors , wom e n’s c loth e s c ontinue to illus tra te s im ila rity a nd d iffe re nc eIndoors , wom e n’s c loth e s c ontinue to illus tra te s im ila rity a nd d iffe re nc e

A m othe r in tra d itiona l dre s s s its proudly with h e r e duc a te d c h ildre n in the E urope a n-s tyle re c e ption room of a tra ns itiona l m iddle -c la s s fa m ily.

Rugh, 1984

Inte rior o f a Coptic c h urc h , Ca iro.

Denis Dailleux, Méditerranée Magazine, 2001

This s ec tion is a ‘cas e s tudy’ – looking c los e ly at s ome of the This s ec tion is a ‘cas e s tudy’ – looking c los e ly at s ome of the women in a s mall rural community. The s ame exerc is e could women in a s mall rural community. The s ame exerc is e could

be done in mos t areas o f the countries in this exhibition. be done in mos t areas o f the countries in this exhibition. Pers onal photos , text and res earch by Caroline Simps on.Pers onal photos , text and res earch by Caroline Simps on.

All thes e women are from the village of Qurna, on the wes t bank All thes e women are from the village of Qurna, on the wes t bank of the Nile at Luxor – they were born there , and with few of the Nile at Luxor – they were born there , and with few

exceptions have never trave lled far except in s ome cas es to exceptions have never trave lled far except in s ome cas es to Mecca.Mecca.

The village is around, near and on the tombs and temples o f The village is around, near and on the tombs and temples o f Ancient Egypt which are vis ited by thous ands o f touris ts daily. Ancient Egypt which are vis ited by thous ands o f touris ts daily. Des pite this , Qurna is a very traditional Upper Egyptian village , Des pite this , Qurna is a very traditional Upper Egyptian village ,

with s trong extended familie s and re tention of o ld s oc ial with s trong extended familie s and re tention of o ld s oc ial cus toms . What can we learn of thes e women’s lives in what cus toms . What can we learn of thes e women’s lives in what they wear, knowing s ome of the reas ons behind each photo?they wear, knowing s ome of the reas ons behind each photo?

His toryHis tory

Th e pe ople o f Qurna a re de s c e nda nts o f h is toric ind ig e nous c om m unitie s p lus B e dou in Ara b , a fe w B e rb e rs a nd a fe w pe ople from th e balad e s -S udan. Th oug h onc e a ve ry im porta nt Coptic Ch ris tia n a re a , th e loc a l c om munity g ra dua lly c onve rte d to Is la m

a nd now th e re is on ly a s m a ll m inority o f Coptic fa m ilie s . Th e tra d itiona l oc c upa tion is fa rm ing , but a re viva l o f a nc ie nt/ne w c ra fts ,

a rc h a e o log ic a l e xc a va tion, a nd oth e r tra de s a s s oc ia te d with h e rita g e a nd ma s s touris m invo lve th e m a jority o f th e a dult

popula tion in s ome wa y.

De ta il o f dra wing of 1824 s h owing fa mily in courtya rd dra wn by long te rm re s ide nt, 1824.

Robert Hay, British Library MSS

De ta il o f pa inting by vis iting a rtis t/tra ve lle r, 1842.

Willia m P rins e p, Ma rtyn Gre g ory Ga lle ry

P os tca rd photo c .1895 – s ome young a nd olde r loca l wome n e a rne d mone y by

pos ing for touris ts .

Wome n vis iting – not pos ing for touris ts , pos tca rd c .1910.

Wome n ha ppy to be ph otog ra phe d by a n a nonymous touris t, 1959.

“S e x is a noth e r crite ria for two de fin ite s oc ia l g roups : the world of me n a nd th e world of wome n. In th is community it is unth inka b le to ha ve fre e mixing be twe e n th e two worlds , or th a t a th ing done by one s e x c a n

a ls o be done by a me mbe r of the oth e r s e x. …. While wome n a re e xpe c te d to a dorn the ms e lve s with e a rring s , nos e ring s , koh l for th e e ye s , fing e r ring s , a nkle ts , h e nna for th e pa lms (a lmos t a n orna me nt in

e ve ry s e ns e ), me n a re s uppos e d to re fra in. More ove r wh ile me n s h a ve or cut th e ir h a ir, wome n le a ve it to g row a s long a s pos s ib le a nd ne ve r cut it. Wh ile me n we a r pa nts , wome n do not; wh ile wome n’s s pe e ch is us ua lly s prinkle d with words in th e d iminutive , me n a re not e xpe cte d to follow th is h a b it; wh ile wome n ca rry

th ing s on the ir h e a ds , me n ne ve r do s o, a nd only ca rry th ing s e ith e r in th e ir ha nds , or on th e ba ck or s h oulde rs …..”

Growing up in an Egyptian Village – Silwa, Province of Aswan, Hamed Ammar, 1954

Wome n colle c ting s ug a r ca ne , 1910-14.

Dawson, Cambs. County Library

Ha jja Aye s h a , widow for ove r 20 ye a rs , ra is e d th re e ch ildre n a lone . Ve ry de vout a nd pra ys a t e ve ry pra ye r time , a lwa ys we a rs b la ck a nd is cove re d indoors a nd out. No s chooling , not lite ra te , g oe s ne a rly e ve ry da y to fa rm he r s ma ll pa rce l of la nd 1.5 km a wa y a nd owns la rg e h ous e . Allowe d me to ph otog ra ph h e r a fte r four ye a rs ’ a cqua inta nce providing no-one in th e villa g e s e e s th e ph oto.

F a tima , da ug h te r of Aye s h a , in th e ir courtya rd we a ring c loth e s boug h t s pe c ia lly for th e E id. S h e mig h t g o vis iting but more like ly h ope s to be vis ite d by frie nds . Mid-30s a nd s ing le , s e ldom g oe s be yond th e courtya rd g a te , s ome time s vis its h e r ne xt-door ne ig h bours , a nd ve ry infre que ntly g oe s to th e we e kly ma rke t 100 me tre s a wa y. Wh e n a s ma ll ch ild with h e r fa th e r s h e us e d to s e ll to touris ts - no s ch ooling , not lite ra te , s pe a ks s ome E ng lis h .The photo shows: Woman in her mid-30’s wearing red, black and gold flower patterned dress with a head drape of transparent black with gold edging.

F a tima wa nts a ph oto of h e rs e lf in a ll the fine ry th a t pos s ib ly no-one but me will e ve r s e e . The photo shows: Fatima in her main room, wearing a flower patterned dress on a pink background. Her black hair is in long braids with a golden ‘alice’ band. She looks at herself in a pretty hand mirror wearing a lovely gold and pearl necklace and earrings.

Ha ppy with food pre pa re d for two s pe c ia l fe ma le g ue s ts from Ca iro a nd UK. F a tima ch oos e s to le t h e r h a ir down.The photo shows: Fatima wears a blue house dress with her long hair down and loosely hanging past her shoulders. Balanced on her raised right hand is a large metal tray heaped with wonderful cut fresh fruit.

Moth e r a nd da ug h te r.Moth e r a nd da ug h te r.

Moth e r, da ug h te r a nd oth e r re la tive s .Moth e r, da ug h te r a nd oth e r re la tive s .

S a ba h a t h e r h ome working with h e r hus ba nd. B e ing the only da ug h te r a nd e lde s t ch ild h e r fa th e r did not le t h e r a tte nd s ch ool. S h e now ha s four ch ildre n a nd h a s not g ot th e time to g o to the s pe c ia l s ch ool for loca l wome n.

S a ba h in b la ck ove r-dre s s a nd s ca rf vis iting h e r pa re nt’s h ous e . He r moth e r, F a tima , in h ous e dre s s a nd s c a rf ca s ua lly tie d s h owing h e r ha ir a t h ome – a ls o no forma l s chool a nd

not lite ra te , moth e r of e ig h t ch ildre n.

Moth e r, da ug h te r a nd oth e r re la tive s

F a tima , in be s t b lue dre s s cove re d by b la ck ove r-dre s s vis iting h e r de ce a s e d moth e r’s h ous e a t h e r h ole iya (one ye a r a fte r de a th comme mora tion). Th e fe ma le re la tive on th e rig h t now live s in Is ma ’iliya (S ue z Ca na l) a nd we a rs a s tyle ne ve r s e e n on a loca l wome n. Wa ida , F a tima ’s s is te r-in-la w, we a rs h e r be s t, ne w h ous e dre s s a nd ca s ua lly tie d s ca rf to e nte rta in h e r wome n re la tive s .

The photo shows: The relative from Isma’iliya is dressed top-to-toe in white. Her head cover is very tightly drawn under her chin and around her face and drapes over her shoulders like a large cape.

Wa ida with cous ins wh o live ne a r by. Wa ida is a t h e r h ome , th us s howing s ome h a ir – wh ile th e vis iting wome n h a ve tig h te r h e a ds ca rve s a nd wore b la ck ove r-dre s s e s to come to th e h ous e .

The photo shows: Three women wearing brightly coloured house dresses.

P h otos to a dd to th e fa mily a lbum .P h otos to a dd to th e fa mily a lbum .

Th re e s is te rs (re la tive s of S a ba h ’s fa th e r) in th e ir h ous e h ig h on th e h ill. Th e two re s ide nt s is te rs le ft a nd rig h t (who s e ldom g o out) a re in typic a l, but be s t, h ous e dre s s e s a nd h a ve put on borrowe d lips tick, th e middle one is jus t vis iting a nd h a s ta ke n off h e r b la ck ove r-dre s s .

The photo shows: Two women wear bright house dresses that button from foot to neck. The third dress is a smock dress and only buttons to the chest. All dresses have long, full sleeves tightening at the wrist.The two resident sisters have brushed out their hair for the photo.

Ha jja Na mit, h e r da ug h te r-in-la w, two g ra ndch ildre n a nd th e pig e ons . Th e Ha jja we a rs the pla its a nd h e a ds ca rf of th e olde r wome n. Ne ith e r of the s e wome n ofte n g oe s outs ide th e fa mily prope rty – only on cus toma ry vis its conne c te d with b irth s , de a th s a nd c los e fa mily we dding s .

In th e fa mily courtya rd. Ha jja He ra – h ous e wife ,

moth e r of five , wife of s e nior monume nts ’ re s tore r, 2

ye a rs prima ry e duca tion – a nd he r da ug h te r Ama l a nd

two s ons . Ama l – s e conda ry e duca tion,

s tude nt a t loca l colle g e .

F a tima ’s s is te r Amina , ma rrie d to F a tima ’s brothe r in la w, a la nd-owne r a nd drive r for touris ts (firs t cous in ma rria g e s a re ve ry common). Amina a ls o d id we ll a t s e conda ry s ch ool a nd is lite ra te in Ara b ic a nd pa rtia lly a ls o in E ng lis h .

S h e us ua lly we a rs s imple t-s h irts a nd b lous e s with trous e rs or s kirts in the home . S he occa s iona lly vis its loca l fa mily hous e s , but is not a llowe d to g o to th e loca l ma rke t. He r h us ba nd s a ys s h e ca n do th a t whe n s h e is old if s h e wa nts to.

The photo shows: Amina with her arms around two of her sons, wearing a white t-shirt and a simple headscarf is tied at the back of her neck.

Amina brus h e d h e r h a ir out s pe c ia lly a nd put on he r s ma rt s h oe s a nd s kirt s o s he could ha ve a n ice p ic ture for th e fa mily a lbum, (1998).

The photo shows: Amina is indoors, in her main sitting room, wearing black high heel shoes and a mid-calf length patterned skirt on a black background.

Na djua , unma rrie d, Unive rs ity g ra dua te , te a che s E ng lis h a t a loca l s ch ool. S h e put on h e r work c lothe s s pe c ia lly to ha ve th is photo ta ke n. Norma lly s h e cha ng e s into more ca s ua l, s imple r c lothe s a t home , (1997). S h e is now ma rrie d to a loca l ph a rma c is t, h a s two ch ildre n, a nd no long e r

works a s a te a ch e r.

Ha jja S a ye da a nd he r two da ug hte rs -in-la w a nd th e two ne w g ra ndch ildre n. Th e Ha jja ha s h e r ha ir in pla its broug h t to th e front with a b la ck s c a rf in a s tyle of th e olde r Qurna wome n. Th e y ke e p a s ma ll g e ne ra l s h op a t th e s ide of the h ous e a nd a s ke d me to c a ll to ta ke th is ph oto for the fa mily colle c tion.

Th e s is te r a nd s is te r-in-la w of Abd e ’J a ’a la n, th e wood-ca rve r, live low down th e h ill a nd ofte n ca ll touris ts in to s e e th e ir h ous e a nd the ir brothe r’s work. It would be ina ppropria te for th e m to jus t we a r h ous e dre s s e s . Th e one on the le ft we a rs a b la ck working dre s s , wh ile th e oth e r ha s on a n ove r-dre s s with buttons a ll down th e front – both ve ry typica l of lowe r-

c la s s a nd working wome n.

F a tima in h e r g a rde n - s e conda ry e duca tion, lite ra te in Ara b ic a nd pa rtia lly a ls o in E ng lis h . Da ug h te r of le a rne d S h e ikh , hote l-owne r a nd la nd-owne r. Wife of la nd-owne r a nd h ote l ma na g e r. (1996)

B e fore s h e h a d ch ildre n F a tima wore we s te rn-s tyle s h irts with s kirts or s la cks (a s h e re ), now with two ch ildre n s h e norma lly we a rs a va ria nt of th e typica l E g yptia n h ous e dre s s worn by mos t oth e r loca l wome n. F a tima would like to h a ve a n office job ove r in Luxor, but he r h us ba nd ins is ts

s h e s ta y a t h ome .

Coptic we a ve r. Th e re a re no vis ib le d iffe re nce s in dre s s for working Coptic wome n in th e

old pa rt of Qurna . Ove r in Luxor, a nd for th e young e r, e duca te d g e ne ra tion, s tyle s

h a ve cha ng e d with th e time s .

Th e c a m e ra doe s n’t lie , but …… Th e c a m e ra doe s n’t lie , but …… Th e s e two ph otos of loc a l s c h ool Th e s e two ph otos of loc a l s c h ool

c h ildre n s h ow th e ‘prob le m s ’ o f us ing c h ildre n s h ow th e ‘prob le m s ’ o f us ing s ing le im a g e s to te ll a s tory. E ve ry s ing le im a g e s to te ll a s tory. E ve ry

ima g e h a s to be c onte xtua lis e d, a nd ima g e h a s to be c onte xtua lis e d, a nd th e re is m ore th a n one pe rs on’s th e re is m ore th a n one pe rs on’s

ve rs ion o f c onte xt pe r ima g e . Th e ve rs ion o f c onte xt pe r ima g e . Th e two p ic ture s c ould be us e d to ‘prove ’ two p ic ture s c ould be us e d to ‘prove ’

ve ry d iffe re nt th ing s a bout s c h ool ve ry d iffe re nt th ing s a bout s c h ool c h ildre n a nd Is la m ic obs e rva nc e s in c h ildre n a nd Is la m ic obs e rva nc e s in

Qurna .Qurna .

One morning I wa s wa yla id with my ca me ra by a g roups of kids I kne w s lig h tly a s th e y we re on th e ir wa y to s chool. Th e y wa nte d a ph oto o f

th e ms e lve s , a s a g roup of frie nds a nd re la tive s , for th e ms e lve s , a nd kne w I would g ive th e m copie s la te r. Th e y do not come from rich or conformis t

fa milie s a nd th e y a re we a ring a typic a l informa l lot of c loth e s th e y norma lly we a r to s ch ool.

Th is othe r ph oto wa s ta ke n by a profe s s iona l F re nch , ma le , ph otog ra ph e r e s pe c ia lly for a book of photos a bout the villa g e . Th e y h a d dre s s e d up for th is ph oto, a s e ve ry g roup of s ch ool-ch ildre n doe s for th e a nnua l S ch ool P h oto. Th e g irls wh o a re ne a te s t a nd mos t conforming in dre s s h a ve be e n move d to th e front, a nd c le a n he a d-s ca rve s mus t h a ve be e n ha nde d out s pe c ia lly. Howe ve r, in th e book it a ppe a rs a s a typica l ph oto of loca l g irls in s ch ool.