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The Comprehensive Guideto Home Renovations

Large and Small

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The Comprehensive Guide to Home Renovations Large and Small

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CONTENTS Glossary - Terms 4

Printable Forms 19

Universal Home Design Checklist 20

Contractor Reference Checklist 22

Contractor Selection Checklist 23

Contract Content Checklist 24

Chapter 1 – House Structure Basics 25

Plumbing 27

Wiring 28

HVAC 29

Walls – Interior and Exterior 30

Walls – Load and Non-load Bearing 30

Making Temporary Supports 31

Balloon Framing 31

Platform Framing 32

Chapter 2 – Building Codes and Permits 34

Electrical Codes 36

Plumbing Codes and Permits 37

Chapter 3 – Universal Design 39

Chapter 4 –Project Planning ; Home Structure 41

A Review of the Structure of Your Home 42

Defining Project Needs 43

How to Work with Drawings 44

Consider Hiring a Design Professional 45

The Importance of a Materials List 46

Estimating Project Cost 47

Obtaining a Remodeling Loan 47

Financial Options for the Elderly 49

Chapter 5 - Finding the Right Contractor 50

What to Look For 50

Where to Look 51

Obtaining Quotes 51



The Difference Between Estimates & Quotes 52

The Interviewing Process 52

Making Contractor Selection 54

Chapter 6 - The Work Contract 55

Chapter 7 - Keys to Project Success 57

Handling Disagreements 59

Chapter 8 – Projects; Before you Begin 60

Attics - Evaluation 61

Project Planning 62

Basements - Evaluation 63

Project Planning 65

Bathrooms 65

Project Planning 65

Countertops 67

Bathtubs & Showers 68

Toilets 70

Sinks & Lavatories 71

Kitchens 72

Project Planning 72

Cabinet Styles & Considerations 74

Countertops 77

Chapter 9 – Remodeling Projects 78

Cabinets – How to Replace Kitchen Cabinets 78

Wall Cabinets 79

Base Cabinets 80

Ceilings - Framing 81

Paneling 82

Texturing 84

Wallboard Installation (see Walls and Ceilings) 102

Countertops – Installing Ceramic Tile 85

Floors 90

Removing Old 90

Preparing for New 92

Installation – Hardwood and laminate flooring 93



Installation – Sheet Vinyl 95

Installation – Floor-warming Systems 98

Walls and Ceilings – Installing Wallboard 102

Texturing Walls 109

Soundproofing 111

Windows 112

Types 112

Removal 114

Framing 115

Installation 115

Proper Caulking 119

Chapter 10 - Quick Handyman Projects 120

Cabinets – Old Cabinet Makeover 120

Doors – Interior vs. Exterior 121

Framing a Door 122

Special Considerations – Balloon Framing 124

Adding the Header 125

Installing Interior Doors 125

Installing Exterior Doors 126

Removing a Door 127

Insulating 128

Duct Work 130

Pipes 130

Walls 131

Installation – Garbage Disposals 133

Sinks – Self-rimming and Recessed 135

Wall Switches 138



GLOSSARY OF TERMS (Words found in the Glossary of Terms are underlined throughout each chapter for ease of reference.) *A Actual dimensions – The exact measurement of a piece of lumber. For instance, a 2X4 is actually 1½-inches thick and 3½-inches wide. Adaptor – A fitting used to join pipes and other plumbing components. Alcove - A recessed area in a room. Ampere (Amp, A) – The unit of measurement of electrical current as it moves through a conductor. Angle-nail – Driving nails into a substance at an angle. Apex – The vertex; the highest point of something. Apron - The trim below a window sill or table top. Accessibility – The degree to which a certain building or site allows access to persons with disabilities. *B Backer rod (foam backer rod) – A flexible, cylindrical-shaped material used for chinking wide joints; for enhanced sealant/caulking performance. Balloon Framing – The method of early wood structure framing used primarily in the United States and Canada that utilized long continuous framing members that run from sill to eave line; popular at a time when long lumber was plentiful. Present day, this type framing has been replaced by platform framing. Bat – Half of a brick; used to complete a wall course bond. Batt – A section of fiberglass or rock-wool insulation Batts (batten) – A narrow strip used to cover joints between boards or panels. Balusters – Spindles that add support to a staircase handrail. Beam – A horizontal support. Bearing Wall – Exterior or interior walls that lends support to the roof or overhead floor joists. Blanket – Fiberglass or rock-wool insulation that comes in a roll.



Blind-nailing – A method of driving nails into tongue-and-groove planks in a way that hides them from sight. Drive the nail into the tongue of the plank at an angle; make sure the head is recessed. Slide the grooved side of the succeeding board over the tongue, hiding the nail head. Blocking – Bridging lengths of solid wood between floor joists for extra support and to eliminate squeaks. Staggering alternately on each side of the chalk line offsets the blocks; allowing you to nail each block firmly in place more easily, without having to angle-nail. Bond – 1. The pattern in which bricks or other masonry unites are laid. 2. The cementing action of an adhesive, such as glue. Box – To mix containers of the same kind and color of paint together to ensure the color will be exact throughout the painting project. Breaker box – An insulated box that contains mounted circuit breakers or fuses that control the electrical current in a structure. Bridging – Boards nailed between joists for rigidity and to keep the joists from warping. British thermal unit (BTU) – The amount of heat required to raise 1 pound of water 1 degree Fahrenheit. Building codes – Ordinances for safety purposes that govern the manner in which a structure is constructed or modified; codes can be national, providence or statewide, or local. Local codes supersede other codes. Bulkhead enclosures - A partition, wall, or embankment that acts as a protective barrier. Butt – Materials placed end-to-end or end-to-edge, without overlapping. Butt hinge – The most common type of hinge; one leaf attached to the door’s edge, the other to its jamb. Buttjoints – Formed by edges of wallboard that join together when constructing a wall, for instance; seams are taped, covered with compound, and then sanded with the end goal of a flat surface with invisible seams. *C Cantilever – A beam or beams that projects beyond its support. Carpenter’s square – a handheld tool larger than a try square; used as a guide for establishing 90-degree (right) angles; made of metal in the shape of a right triangle. Casing - The enclosing frame around a door, window, or other opening. Cats Paw – A tool similar to a small crowbar; used in small work spaces, or tight areas. Caulk – A variety of compounds used to seal seams and joints.



Cement – A powder that serves as a binding element in concrete and mortar. Cementboard – Sometimes called cement backer board or a glass mesh mortar unit; made specifically for use under ceramic tile. Cfm (cubic feet per minute) – The amount of air a blower or fan is capable of moving. Chalk line – An encased reel of string coated with colored chalk; used to mark straight lines. Chalking – The tendency of some exterior paints to slowly erode over a period of time. Circuit breaker – A safety switch designed to automatically shut off electrical current to avoid a circuit overload. Compound miter –A saw with a box, used to cut wood at a tilted angle for accurate, smooth, clean bevel and miter cuts; especially useful for cutting trim and crown molding, and for cutting paneling for ceilings without 90-degree angles. Compressor – The part of a cooling unit or heat pump that compresses refrigerant gas so it absorbs heat. Concrete – A mixture of water, sand, gravel, and cement; one of the more basic building and paving materials. Condensing unit – The outdoor section of a cooling system; it includes a compressor and condensing coil. Conduit – Metal pipes encased over electrical wiring to protect it in exposed settings. Construction grade plywood – Various types of a thicker, more durable grade of plywood manufactured for particular purposes, and to meet or exceed building code requirements for certain types of construction projects. Coping – 1. A rounded or beveled cap located at the top of a wall so water will run off. 2. A curved cut that neatly joins one contoured molding with another. Corner bead – Lightweight, perforated metal angle; used to reinforce outside corners in drywall construction. Coupling – A fitting used to connect two lengths of pipes in a straight run. Courses – Parallel layers of building materials; bricks, shingles, siding, etc. Cornice - A horizontal molded projection that completes a building or wall; the molding between the wall and ceiling. Counterbore – A pre-drilled pilot hole with a larger hole drilled in the center to allow screw heads to rest flush or just below the surface.



Cove - A concave surface that connects the ceiling and a wall; a type of molding used to join vertical surfaces to horizontal ones. Cripple – A short stud above or below a window or door opening; short studs placed between the header and a top plate, or sill and bottom plate. Crosscut – To cut wood across its natural grain. Crown – 1. A slightly humped surface on paving that allows water to run off. 2. A contoured molding installed at the junctures of walls and ceilings. Cupping – A type of warping that causes the edges of boards to curl up. *D Dado – A groove cut into a piece of wood to secure a plank or board in place. Damper – A valve inside a cut or flue; used to slow or stop the flow of air or smoke. Deadbolt – A locking device with squared-off ends, activated with a key or thumb turn. Digital multi-meter – A relatively inexpensive compact, easy to use instrument used for home electrical applications; easier to use than an analog Ohm meter, with wire probes and a digital display. Some models also have a select mode function. Dormer window - A window vertically set in a structure, projecting through a sloping roof. Double cylinder – A lock that is operated with a key from the inside as well as the outside. Drywall – Sheet masonry wall panels without mortar. Drywall compound (also known as mud) – A highly extended paste used to make a continuous seam between pieces of wallboard (drywall, sheetrock) that should be sanded smooth after use; also used to repair cracks, holes, and other defects. Drywall knife – A small hand tool with a blade; for application of drywall compound; available in various widths and handle lengths. Drain-waste-vent (DWV) – The network of pipes used to carry water and sewer gases out of the home. Ducts – Round or rectangular metal pipes that transport warm or cold air from either a furnace or air conditioner to rooms in a house. *E Easement – A legal right for restricted use of someone’s property. Eaves – The lower edge of a roof that projects away from the wall.



Efflorescence – A whitish powder that sometimes oozes from the mortar joints in masonry work. Egress - An opening for going out; an exit point. Elastomeric caulk – A durable, paintable latex sealant; more expensive than other type caulks, but better for specific applications. Elbow (L) – A plumbing or electrical fitting that allows you to change direction in lengths of pipe or conduit. Elevation drawing – 1. A drawing of the exterior or interior of a building as seen from a horizontal position - without dimensional perspective. 2. The side view of a room detailing one wall per drawing. Evaporator coil – A cooling system part that absorbs heat from air in a structure. Expansion joint – Flexible material between two surfaces, allowing joints differing rates of expansion and contraction. Exterior grade plywood (WBP; water and boil proof) – Plywood treated with durable veneers, bonded with waterproof adhesive. It is capable of withstanding prolonged exposure to even severe exterior conditions. *F Fall – The slope of drain pipes; minimum fall is 1/4-inch per foot. Fascia board – Horizontal trim attached to the outside ends of rafters, or to the top of an exterior wall. Female – Any part with internal threads that allows another part to be inserted and attached. Fire blocking – Short horizontal members nailed between studs. Fish tape – A flexible, flat metal wire used to move other wires through conduits or other hard to access locations in a structure; also referred to as steel fish tape or fish wire. Fitting – Any pipe connector other than a valve. Fixture – Any device providing a flow of water, or sanitary disposal of wastes; this includes bathtubs, showers, toilets, and sinks. Flangs – The part of a window that surrounds the frame; for mounting in place and installation. Flashing – Metal or composition strips used to seal junctions between roofing and other surfaces. Floating – The stage just before the final stage in concrete work, where you introduce water and smooth off the surface.



Floor plan – A scale drawing that depicts the rooms of a house, including the orientation of doors, walls, windows, and permanent fixtures. Flue – A pipe or other channel that carries smoke and combustion gases to the outside air. Footing – The base on which a masonry wall rests. Frame fins – The members of a window frame that engage with the exterior surface of a building once inserted into position. Used to attach the frame to the exterior of a structure; secured with nails or screws Framing – The structural skeleton or framework of a building. Framing square – A flat tool made of metal, shaped like an “L,” used to form accurate right angles. Most commonly used for marking perpendicular lines along the length of lumber during construction projects. Furred - A wall, ceiling, or floor prepared with the use of strips of wood or metal to provide a level substratum for plaster, flooring, or another surface; or to create an air space. Furring Strips – Long thing strips of wood used to make backing surfaces support finished surfaces in a room. Furring can refer to the strips themselves, or “to fur;” the process of installing the strips. Note: some building codes in communities that support fire-proof supporting elements require the use of metal furring strips. So be sure and check what your local building code requirements are before installing any. Fuse – A safety device that burns out if a circuit shorts or overloads. *G Gable – The triangular area located beneath the sloping parts of a roof, and the line that runs between the roof’s eaves. Galvanized – An outer covering of zinc that protects against rusting. Gate valve – A valve that completely stops the flow of water. Girder – The main supporting beam of the house. Glazing – The process of installing glass; securing it with glazier’s points and glazing compound. Globe valve – A valve that adjusts the flow of water. Grade – 1. Ground level. 2. The elevation at any given point. Graphite –A soft, black carbon powder for lubricating working metal parts. Gross Floor Area – A measurable floor area that is usable. Ground – The shortest route to earth, in regards to electricity.



Ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) – A safety device capable of detecting electrical leakage and interrupts the current. Grout – Thin mortar used to fill the joints between tiles or other masonry. Gypsum Wallboard – A type of wallboard made from layers of gypsum (plaster of Paris) and paper; commonly used in walls and partitions as a substitute for plaster. *H Habitable Rooms – Any room used as, or with the intended use of sleeping, cooking, living, or eating; enclosed spaces such as toilets, landings, halls, lobbies, utility rooms, etc. are excluded. Hardboard – A substance manufactured by pressing wood fibers into sheet goods to be used as building material. Header – Heavy framing above the top of a window, door, or other opening that lends support; usually two boards or a masonry product sandwiched together and laid on edge. Hip – The outside angle of a roof; formed by the intersection of two sloped sides of the roof. Hot wire – The wire that carries electricity away, to a receptacle or other device. HVAC - Heating, ventilation and air conditioning. *I IAQ (Indoor Air Quality) – Interior air quality, increasingly recognized as important to health; this includes gaseous composition, temperature, relative humidity; and airborne contaminant levels, such as pollen and dust. *J Jack studs (trimmers) – Studs at both sides of an opening, used to support the header. Jamb – The top and sides of an opening. Keyhole saw – A handheld saw, also called a jab saw or drywall saw; similar to a compass saw. Typically, it has a long narrow blade with a sharpened point that can be pushed through soft materials without pre-drilling a hole for the blade to fit through. Used for cutting short radius curves in such surfaces as drywall and plywood Jigsaw – A power saw used to cut curved, irregular, and intricate patterns; it has a thin blade that moves up and down.



Joint compound – A synthetic-based paste used in combination with paper or fiberglass tape to conceal joints between drywall panels. Joint Tape – A special type paper tape or paper-faced cotton; used over joints between wallboard applied as a surface. Helping to conceal the joints and provide a smooth surface for finishing (painting, texturing, etc.). Joists – Horizontal floor and ceiling framing supports. *K King studs – The studs located on both ends of a header that lend support, and run from the wall’s sole plate to its top plate. *L Lag screw – A large wood screw with a hexagonal head; secured in place using a wrench instead of a screwdriver. Laminate – 1. The process of applying a veneer. 2. A Thin layer of material (i.e. wood, plastic) glued to the exterior of a surface. Latch – A beveled metal tongued locking device with a spring-loaded knob or lever. Lattice - Wood or other material formed into an open cross-hatch design. Ledger – The horizontal support for an end or edge of an assembly. Level – A tool used to determine true horizontal, or level. Lintel – The load-bearing beam over an opening. Load-bearing wall – Also called a bearing wall, a load-bearing wall supports the house structure, transferring the structure’s weight to the foundation. This includes all exterior walls and any interior wall aligned above a support beam or girder; normally, any wall with a double horizontal top plate. Louver - A framed opening fitted with fixed or movable horizontal slats for admitting air and light, while shedding rain. Low-voltage wiring – Electrical wire for low-voltage systems requiring between 6 and 30 volts. Lux - An International System unit of illumination equal to one lumen per square meter.



*M Main drain – The part of the drainage system between the home’s sewer drain and fixture drains. Male – Any part with external threads that fits into and attaches to another part. Masonry Chisel – A tool with a flat steel blade used for cutting or chipping away stone and masonry. Mason’s line – A heavy string, usually brightly colored, that does not snag or stretch; used for marking the placement of building materials or indicate level of a wall. Materials list – A list of materials required to complete a new construction or renovation project. Measurable floor area - The floor area under ceilings 5 ft. and higher, or furred ceilings 7 1/2 ft. and higher. Miter – A joint formed by beveling the edges or ends of two pieces of material, fitted together at an angle. Molding - A strip of wood or other material used to decorate or finish a surface. Mortar – The bonding agent between bricks or other masonry. Mortise – The hole, slot, or other recess into which another element fits. Mud – (See “drywall compound.”) *N Nail set – A short metal rod with a narrow blunt point; used to set nail heads below the surface of wood. National Electrical Code (NEC) – A set of rules for safe wiring practices. Neutral wire – A wire that carries electricity from an outlet back to the ground; usually color-coded white. National Uniform Plumbing Code (NUFC) – A complex manual of acceptable plumbing standards for safety purposes. Newel post – A post at the top of a staircase or bottom of the landing, secured to the handrail. Nipple – A short length of threaded pipe that connects to runs of water or gas supply pipe. NM electrical cable – A type power cable with a nonmetallic jacket used by electricians that meets electrical code requirements for safe installation and wiring; sometimes also referred to as Romex™,



Nominal dimensions – Labels given to a standard piece of lumber before it is finished by planning; sometimes sanded down to its actual dimensions. *O Ohm meter (also known as VOM) – A hand-held device used to test cables, AC power levels and batteries; it has a needle that moves left to right, a type rotary switch, and set of wire probes. On center (OC) – The distance from the center of one regularly spaced framing member to the center of the next. *P P-trap – A p-shaped section of drain pipe that prevents sewer odors and toxic gases from escaping into your home; a plumbing device located directly below the sink or drain that holds water, preventing sewer gas backup. Packing nut – A nut with packing material that holds the stem of a valve in place. Pennyweight – A system of measurement for the size of a nail. Perlins – The horizontal members of a roof’s structure that attaches and supports roof panels; horizontal lengths of lumber that connect rafter trusses. Pier – A masonry post. Pilot hole – A small-diameter hole to guide a nail or screw. Pilot light – A small, continuous flame that ignites gas or oil burners once turned on. Platform framing – The most common method of light-frame construction framing used for houses, small apartment buildings, and occasionally for small commercial buildings throughout the United States and Canada. Platform framing uses studs that are attached to floor-level bottom plates. This type framing requires not only shorter pieces of lumber than balloon framing, but makes home structural renovation changes much easier. Plenum – The large hot-air supply duct that leads from the furnace before branching into ducts. Plumb – True vertical. Plumb bob – A lead weight attached to a string; used in determining plumb. Plumber’s putty – A product some plumbers use as a sealant when installing drain basins such as kitchen, laundry, and bathroom sinks; showers and bathtubs. Note: products such as silicone caulking have become the preference of an increasing number of plumber’s when installing drain basins; due to its superior bonding properties that decrease the risk of product breakdown and future leaks. Point – Filling the cracks of masonry wall with mortar or cement to finish it off.



Post-and-beam – A basic building method where a few hefty posts and beams are used to support an entire structure. Pressure-treated wood – Lumber treated with a preservative. Primer – A base coat formulated to seal raw surfaces and hold succeeding finish coats. Property value – The value of a piece of property based upon a recent appraisal and the amount a buyer will pay. PVC – A type plastic pipe used for cold, not hot water. PVC-U – An unplasticised version of PVC; made from polymere. It was once referred to as uPVC (for unplasticised PVC); the term was changed to PVC-U in 1990 in order to conform to the international naming conventions for polymers. *Q *R Rafters – Framing members that run parallel and support the roof. Rake – The inclined edge of a roof. Reducer – A fitting with openings in various sizes used to connect a larger pipe to a smaller one. Ridge board – The topmost beam located at the peak of a roof to which rafters are attached; the horizontal board that serves as the apex, the highest point, of the roof or ceiling. Rip / Ripping – To trim or saw a board by following the grain. Rise – The vertical distance from one point to another above it. Riser – The upright piece between two stair steps. Rough opening – The framed-in opening of a structure; the opening left in a frame wall to receive a window or door unit. Openings are larger than the size of the unit to allow space for insulation and to shim the unit square. Roughing-in – The initial stage of a construction or renovation project, once all plumbing, carpentry, and electrical components that won’t be seen after the second finishing phase are assembled. Run – 1. The horizontal distance of a ramp or stairway. 2. A line of pipes or cabinets. R-value – The measure of the resistance to heat transfer of an insulating material.



*S Sash – The part of a window that can be opened. Screed – The board used to level concrete once it has been poured into a form. Set screw – Used to prevent loosening due to vibration; available as thumb screw, square head, Allen head (inset socket), and most commonly – headless; designed to be inserted flush with or below a surface. Setback – 1. The distance a home must be built from property lines, governed by local zoning codes. 2. Temporary change in a thermostat’s setting. Shake – A wood shingle that has been split, instead of cut. Sheathing – The first covering on a roof or exterior wall. Sheet goods – Plywood and similar materials manufactured as panels. Shim – Thin material used as wedges to make level or plumb adjustments. Shoe molding (base shoe) – Molding along the point where the baseboard meets the floor. Sill –The lowest horizontal piece of a window, door, or wall framework. Sill cock – The valve of an outdoor faucet. Sill plate – A sole plate that rests on a foundation; the first component of framing a house, supporting the house structure. Sisal - A natural, durable fiber frequently used in floor coverings. Sleepers – Boards that lay over a masonry floor, used as nailers for plywood, strip, or wood flooring. Snap ring – A small metal ring. When installing a sink, it holds the entire under the counter sink assembly tight and securely in place. Soffit - The underside of a structural element; i.e. beam, arch, cornice, eaves, or staircase. Soil pipe – A large pipe used to carry liquid and solid wastes to a sewer or septic tank. Sole plate – The bottommost horizontal part of a stud partition; supported by a wood subfloor, concrete slab, or another closed surface. Sound transmission class (STC) – A rating of airborne sound transmission; used for floor, ceiling, wall soundproof values. Typical sound proof values range from a modest 25 to 35 rating for lightweight, single family residential structures; room partitions for commercial structures may have increased STC ratings upwards of 50 to 60. Many homeowners elect to increase STC rating to soundproof certain rooms of the house; such as home theaters, home offices, bedrooms, guest quarters, family recreation rooms, etc.



Spackle / Spackling compound – A paste that can be sanded once dried; used to fill cracks and holes in walls. Span – The distance between supports Spline – A thin piece of wood used to strengthen the joint; fitted into the slots on the edges of two joined boards. Square – Surfaces positioned at a 90-degree angle to each other. Square notched trowel – A handheld tool with different notched depths; used to spread and “comb” adhesives and other similar products onto underlayment or other horizontal surfaces. Most frequently used for installing floor tile. Stack – The main drain pipe that runs vertically through a house. STC – (See “sound transmission class.”) Steel fish tape – (See “fish tape.”) Strike – The plate on a door frame that engages a latch or dead bolt. Stile – The vertical section of a cabinet facing. Stringer – A long piece of lumber used to support stairs. Studs – Vertical framing members spaced at regular intervals within a wall. Stud finder – An electronic or magnetic tool used to locate wall studs. Subfloor – The first layer of a floor. Substratum - An underlying layer. The foundation; material on which another material is attached. Surform plane – A type plane with various blades for special purposes; one with precision sharpened, hard teeth set to produce consistent quality cuts. Sweep – A flexible strip on the bottom edge of a door to prevent drafts. Swing stapler (hammer tacker) – A small, hand-held heavy duty stapling device that requires one-hand operation; used with a swinging motion much like that of a hammer. Ideal for installing insulation, poly sheeting, tar paper, carpet, house wrap, etc. *T T – T-shaped plumbing fitting.



T-square – 1. A tool with a 48-inch long tongue; typically made from aluminum, used to measure and cut wallboard. 2. A technical drawing instrument primarily used for drawing lines on a drafting table Tailpiece – 1. The short drainpipe located between a fixture drain and a trap. 2. The inlet tubes on faucets that connect it to water supply lines. Taping – The process of covering drywall joints with paper tape and joint compound. Threshold (saddle) – The plate located at the bottom of some door openings; usually on the exterior. Toenail – Nailing at an angle to attach two boards together; diagonally through the corner of one board into the other board. Top plate – The uppermost horizontal element of a stud-frame wall. Trap – A bend in a drainpipe that creates a water seal to prevent toxic gases from escaping through fixtures into the house. Tread – The level part of a staircase. *U Underlayment (sub-floor material) – A cement-like product that is used to level floors before laying down any surface material. Union – A plumbing fitting used to join pipes end to end. Universal Design - Physically challenged friendly; products and environments accessible and useable by all people regardless of age, size, or physical ability. Utility knife – A knife with a long handle and a retractable razor blade. *V Valley – Where two roof slopes intersect. Vapor barrier – Waterproof material that blocks the transfer of moisture in a wall, floor, or ceiling. Veneer - Thin sheets of wood applied to the surface of furniture. *W Wainscoting - Decorative wood paneling that only covers the lower half of a wall.



Warping – Distortion in a material. Wet wall – A wall framed to enclose the building’s main drain/vent stack, water lines, and DWV lines. *X *Y Y – A y-shaped plumbing fitting. *Z Zoning – Local ordinances that govern ways in which a piece of property can be used in a particular neighborhood.



PRINTABLE FORMS The following printable forms have been included for your convenience:

• Universal Home Design Checklist……….20 • Contractor Reference Checklist………….22 • Contractor Selection Checklist…………...23 • Contract Content Checklist………………24



Universal Home Design Checklist Is your home a “lifetime” home; one that will meet the needs of each family member for the duration of their life – regardless of age or physical ability? A home with universal design creates a safe environment with adapting features that will benefit all persons. Use the handy checklist below to determine how universal design friendly your home is, and what can be done to make it more so.

YES NO The kitchen is located near the door where groceries are brought into the house The kitchen floor has a non-slip surface; rugs are non-slip or are attached to the floor using one-sided tape

There is a fire extinguisher in the kitchen in an easy-to-reach place There is at least one kitchen counter that is only 36-inches high with knee space underneath

Cabinets have u-shaped handles; lower cabinets have slide out shelves There is a Lazy Susan to reach difficult to access things stored on deep shelves Drawers have special easy-slide hardware Counter edges are a contrasting color and are rounded Counters are at a height that can be used while sitting Counters have leg space underneath Sink hot and cold water controls are located on the side Sinks have lever faucet handles, and anti-scald devices Sinks have leg space underneath The refrigerator is a side-by-side model; regular refrigeration on one side, and freezer space on the other

There is a wall oven at a convenient height Oven doors swing to the side The microwave has a touch pad, with a heat-resistant counter nearby Appliances have push-button controls The stove has clearly marked controls located on the front Traffic areas throughout the house are wide enough for wheelchair use All doors have lever handles All light switches are easy push rocker style There is a garbage disposal There is a trash compactor There is a bedroom on the ground floor There is a walk-in closet wide enough for a wheelchair The shower is a walk-in There is a hand-held shower head There is a bath seat in the shower There is enough space to transfer from a wheelchair to the toilet There is a bathroom on the ground floor There are grab bars near the bathtub and toilet There is a slip-proof transfer bench near the bathtub There is an elevated toilet or toilet seat There is a phone in the bathroom Phones have a high volume ring and large keypads Smoke detectors have strobe lights



Electrical outlets are 27-inches off the floor The house uses increased wattage light bulbs, with uniform lighting throughout Steps are a contrasting color from the surrounding area Stairways have handrails on both sides Stairways have a slip-resistant surface Doorways are wide enough for a walker or wheelchair Floors are slip-resistant Area rugs are slip-proof, or held in place with double sided tape Carpet has low pile, and a firm pad The front door features a ramp with handrails on both sides There is an automatic garage door opener The driveway is smooth, but not slippery

Notes:



CONTRACTOR REFERENCE CHECKLIST Use the handy checklist below when making contact with contractor references; previous customers who can provide valuable insight. Not only in regards to the contractor’s skills, but also how easy the contractor was to work with, how reliable they were, how well they communicated throughout the project, and how well they adhered to the contract. Name of contractor: _____________________________________________________________

Company name: ________________________________________________________________

Address: __________________________________________ Tele. #: _____________________

Reference Name: ____________________________________ Tele. #: ____________________

Date Contacted: _______ / _______ / 200____

What work did the reference have done? _____________________________________________

When was the work completed? ____________________________________________________

How did the reference hear about this contractor? ______________________________________

Did the reference interview other contractors before hiring this one? Yes No

If yes, why was this contractor chosen? ________________________________________

What responsibilities did this contractor have for the project? _____________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

What was the best aspect of working with this contractor? _______________________________

Would the reference ever hire this contractor again? Yes No

If no – why? _____________________________________________________________

Fill in using the following rating system: = poor / = fair / = good / = excellent

Quality of work Ease to work with Kept to budget Kept to schedule Adhered to Contract Work site kept clean and organized Cleaned up site area at the end of each day Communicated with project owner throughout project Kept project owner informed of progress Offered sound advice, good suggestions Was willing to work through problems Was easy to talk to Was easy to work with Managed crew members and any sub-contractors well Delivered what was promised

Notes:



CONTRACTOR SELECTION CHECKLIST Once your project requirements have been outlined on paper, you are ready to select a contractor. Select 3 or 4 candidates you feel most comfortable with and request project bids from each: Name of contractor #1: _____________________________________ Co: __________________

Name of contractor #2: _____________________________________ Co: __________________

Name of contractor #3: _____________________________________ Co: __________________

Name of contractor #4: _____________________________________ Co: __________________ Before the person-to-person interview, provide each candidate with an exact copy of your detailed project requirements in order to compare bids accurately and fairly. Use the handy checklist below to assist you in assessing each contractor and their bid.

Contractor #1

Contractor #2

Contractor #3

Contractor #4

Visual proof of contractor license? Visual proof of insurance / bond? Visual proof of Workman’s Comp coverage?

Did contractor provide customer references?

Reference list checked out? List of trade & supplier references provided?

Reference list checked out? Checked for complaints against the contractor (Dept. Bldg, BBB, etc.)

Has contractor has done similar projects? I have seen other work completed by the contractor, similar to my own

Does contractor provide design services? What range of services does the contractor offer?

Contractor provided detailed itemized bid w/itemized charges; both for labor and materials, as well as start and finish dates

Contractor provided list of acceptable substitute materials, if they are required

Contractor offers warranties on materials and workmanship

Contractor will be onsite to supervise crew members and any sub-contractors

Will contractor be working on other projects simultaneously with my own?

Was the contractor easy to talk to? Was the contractor businesslike and professional?

Comfort level: “I would feel comfortable working with this contractor” (rate using a 1 to 5 scale; 1 being the lowest score)

□ □ □ □ □

□ □ □ □ □

□ □ □ □ □

□ □ □ □ □



CONTRACT CONTENT CHECKLIST Before signing the agreement for your home renovation project, make sure you read the contract thoroughly. Use this handy checklist to make sure pertinent information is clearly detailed. Details to Include In Contract Missing Notes Contractor’s name, address, telephone number

Homeowners name, address, telephone number

Address of construction site Contractor’s license number Contractor’s insurance and bond Information on sub-contractual labor, if any

Detailed description of work Who will be responsible for obtaining all necessary building permits

Itemized materials Material specifics – including manufacturer, model, grade or quality

Substitute materials if necessary; manufacturer, model, grade, etc.

Costs for materials Costs for labor Total cost Starting and finishing dates Agreed upon delays (i.e. adverse weather conditions, delayed material arrival, etc.)

Notes: you may have the right to cancel the contract within 3 business days if the contact was signed in your home. Check with a local building inspector or an attorney to find whether this is true in your area.



Chapter 1 – HOUSE STRUCTURE BASICS Note: definitions for the underlined words in this chapter are found in the Glossary of Terms, located at the front of the book. Regardless of what type renovation project you may be planning, a basic understanding of your home’s structure and mapping of its systems will help you better assess project complexity, renovation requirements, costs, and time involvement. As well as whether or not your renovation plans are something you can accomplish yourself, or if they are even feasible. Styles of Framing There are two basic styles of house framing:

• Balloon • Platform

Balloon framing has studs that run uninterrupted from the roof to a sill plate on the foundation. Studs in platform framing, on the other hand, are attached to floor-level bottom plates (horizontally running framing members along the floor), and ceiling level top plates. Most homes built after 1930 use the platform style of framing. One reason is that this type framing is easy to alter during home renovations. That is because the support structure for each story begins at the floor level of that story, while balloon framing uses wall studs that extend from the foundation walls of the structure to the roof. The type framing your house has will determine complexity of renovation projects that alter the structure’s frame. Framing type also determines what type temporary structural supports will be required during the construction period. Determine the structural framing type of your home by either referring to the original blue prints of your home, or consulting with a building contractor or your local building inspector. Aspects of Framing There are four aspects of home framing that work together to form a solid structure:

• The roof • The walls • The floors and ceiling • The foundation

Roof framing involves the construction rafters, or the purchase of prefabricated frames. Rafters are most often made using 2X6 or larger lumber spaced 16 to 24-inches apart; spanning from the exterior walls to the ridge board or beam, at the peak of the roof.



Ceiling joists usually link the ends of opposing rafters, creating a structural triangle. Rafter ties or collar ties are sometimes used for additional support. Trusses are usually made using 2X2 lumber joined with metal plates or fasteners. Standard trusses have bottom and top cords with interconnecting webs for stability. Trusses can be found in many homes built after 1950. The down side of prefabricated roof frames such as these is that they cannot be cut or altered in any way. Wall framing uses studs; vertical framing members spaced at regular intervals that make up the interior and exterior walls of the home’s structure. While commercial structures most often use metal studs, residential dwellings most often use wood; either 2X4 or 2X6s. Floor and Ceiling Framing consists of joints; the ends of which rest on support beams, foundations, or load-bearing walls. Joists always run perpendicular to their supports, and carry the structural load of floors and ceilings. Most joists are made using 2X10 or larger lumber. Ceiling joists generally use smaller lumber, 2X4 or larger, since they support only a ceiling finish and sometimes small storage space. Blocking or X-bridging is usually installed between joists for added support. Floor joists used in balloon framing are nailed to the sides of the continuous wall studs. Upper-story joists gain added support from 1X4 ribbons that have been notched into the studs below the fire blocking – nailed between each joist for fire protection. Foundation wall framing and a girder, or main beam, supports the frame of the house. This is true regardless of whether the house has balloon or platform style framing. In turn, the foundation framing is supported by the earth that surrounds it. Mapping out House Systems Mapping out house systems such as plumbing, wiring, and heating is a critical part of home renovation planning. Likewise, understanding aspects of house structure and type of framing used is also important. While many do-it-yourself homeowners feel comfortable handling less complicated renovation projects themselves, larger, more complicated projects often require at least some input from a professional building contractor. Aside from wood framework, home structure also involves the following:

• Plumbing • Wiring • HVAC system (heating, ventilation, and air conditioning)



PLUMBING Plumbing fixtures in most houses are located near the 3 or 4-inch drain-waste-vent (DWV) pipe. Also known as the main stack or soil stack; or auxiliary DWV stack. The DWV extends from the basement floor to the roof, serving as the drain and vent for multiple fixtures. Typically, plumbing in residential structures involves not just a water supply system; it also involves fixtures and a drain system. It works something like the following:

• Fresh water enters the home through a main supply line. As it does it usually

passes through a meter that registers the amount of water flowing into the house.

• After entering the home, the water line branches off; some of the water feeds into a hot water heater. Warmed water from the heater flows through a line that runs parallel to the cold water line, feeding fixtures and appliances within the home.

• Waste water from fixtures and appliances flow into a trap, then into a drainage

system that travels downhill through a series of large-diameter drain pipes.

• The drain pipes are attached to a system of vent pipes that allow air into the system through a roof vent. This keeps the drain water flowing properly.

Eventually the drain water reaches a main waste and stack vent that directs the water into an underground sewer line. This carries the water away from the house and into a municipal sewer system or a septic tank. Supply Pipes It is the cold and hot water supply pipes that make up the home’s plumbing system. Before 1950 most supply pipes were made from galvanized iron. Homes built after 1950 generally used copper or plastic (CPVC) pipes. Many homeowners use a home renovation as an opportunity to replace old supply pipes with new. Supply pipes are manufactured to withstand high water pressure. They are usually ½-inch to 1-inch in diameter and are joined with strong, watertight fittings. Valves are used to control the flow of water. Water supply systems are generally located inside wall cavities, or strapped to the undersides of floor joists.



Drain Pipes Drain pipes carry water out of the house via a DWV system; drain-waste-vent. This system uses gravity to draw water down vertical pipes and along a sloping path into a municipal sewer system or septic tank. Although drain pipes found in older homes are generally made from copper or lead, pipes in newer homes are made from plastic or cast iron. Drain pipes are larger than supply pipes; usually 1¼-inches to 4-inches in diameter. The curved section in the DWV is called the trap. The trap holds a supply of standing water. This prevents toxic sewer gases from entering the home. Every time the drain is used, old standing water is replaced with new. Outdoor air is brought into the house by the vent system in the drain pipes. This lowers pressure in the pipes and helps keep the water flowing freely. Improperly constructed drain systems can create drain malfunctions, interfere with toilet flushing, and allow sewer gas to back up and enter the home.

WIRING Wiring is the home’s electrical system. It is made up of many circuits; each of which start from a main service panel, and sometimes a sub-panel. Standard electrical wiring is slim and flexible. Although this makes it difficult to follow the exact route of each circuit, adding new circuits is made easier. Many types of home renovation projects entail changes to the existing wiring system. Most homeowners prefer to hire a professional electrician or other service provider experienced with wiring systems. But DIY homeowners with an understanding of their home’s electrical system can easily complete many aspects of wiring themselves if local building codes allow; as long as they follow good safety practices. An electrical system includes the following:

• The service head – also sometimes called a weather head. This anchors the overhead service wires that run into the home. Service wires generally consist of two wires that supply 120-volt current, and one grounded or neutral wire.

• The electric meter box – keeps track of every watt of electrical current

consumed. The box is usually attached either directly to the house, or a nearby pole; it is connected either to the service head, or power lines that are buried.

• The breaker box – also called the main service panel or fuse box. This

distributes power to individual circuits, each for its own purpose. Circuit



breakers are safety features in the breaker box that shut current down in the event of an overload or short circuit.

• Electric boxes – made from plastic or metal; they enclose wire connections

and are a requirement of the National electrical code (NEC).

• Outlets – also called receptacles. They provide plug-in access to power; two prong 125-volt; three prong 15-amp.

• Power Switches – control the flow of current and turn individual power

sources on or off. Any time a home renovation project includes electrical wiring, extreme caution should be used. It is noteworthy to mention that unless the utility company shuts them off, the wires that connect the service head, electric meter box and breaker box are always live. Never attempt to repair or alter any of these devices. If there is a problem with any of them, promptly contact your utility company.

HVAC HVAC is the home’s heating and cooling system. In a forced-air heating system, the furnace feeds a main supply duct. This branches off to other ducts that lead to the various rooms of the house. Other ducts circulate cold air back to the furnace. Ducts that service the upper floors of a house usually rise straight up through the cavities of wall studs. Some homes use a passive heating system, one that does not employ the use of a fan. A hydronic system, for instance, uses hot water or steam and a network of pipes to circulate heated water from a boiler to heaters located throughout the house; whether baseboard, convectors, or radiators. When renovation projects alter the plumbing, wiring, or HVAC system in any way, it is important to accurately map out each of these systems when still in the planning stage. This can be a complex process, as investigation of the course of pipes, wires, cables, and ducts can be difficult to chart. Yet, knowing exactly what is behind the surface of walls, floors, and ceilings – before work begins – is essential. Key points to remember before beginning any project that will alter your house’s plumbing, electrical wiring, HVAC system, or structure in any way:

• Accurately assess the structure and system of your house, and draw up a detailed diagram.

• Draw up a detailed plan of your home renovation project.



• Show your plans to a local building inspector for approval.

• Obtain all necessary permits that may be required before work begins.

WALLS – INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR Walls of residential structures consist of wood frames covered by such materials as lath, plaster, drywall, paneling, siding, and masonry. Interior walls Interior walls begin with a horizontal sole plate that has been nailed to the subfloor. The plate is used to support vertical studs, nailed to a horizontally running top plate. Locations on the wall where there will be an opening usually have double studs topped by a header; usually two 2X4s or 2X6s. This is to increase rigidity and add support. Some wall frames may also include fire blocking; usually at 4-foot levels, placed horizontally between studs. Exterior Walls Exterior Walls are usually constructed with a sill plate and box sill that rests on top of the foundation. A sole plate with 2X4 or 2X6 vertical studs spaced 16 or 24-inches apart. A top plate is made using 2X4s or 2X6s, resting either the rafters or framing for the second story. Insulation to conserve heat and wood or composition board for strength is then topped with a layer of air wrap. This might consist of asphalt-saturated building paper or plastic that acts as a seal. Outside framing (wood, shingles, siding, masonry, or another material) protects against the elements and adds visual appeal to the structure.

WALLS – LOAD AND NON-LOAD BEARING In addition to the differences between interior and exterior walls and their makeup, another important factor in regards to walls is whether or not they are load bearing or non-load bearing. As the name implies, load-bearing walls carry the structural weight of your home. Load-bearing walls in platform-frame homes will have double top plates. That is, two layers of framing lumber. Note: all exterior walls are load bearing; interior walls that are aligned above support beams are also lead bearing. Non-load-bearing walls support only themselves; they are interior partition walls. They have a single top plate. While non-load-bearing walls might run perpendicular to floor



and ceiling joists, they will not be aligned above support beams. Note: all walls that run parallel to joists are non-load bearing. While non-load-bearing walls can be altered or even removed completely without weakening the home’s structure, alterations that can be made to load-bearing walls are limited. And may require the placement of temporary supports for certain types of remodeling projects.

MAKING TEMPORARY SUPPORTS When alterations are made to a load-bearing wall that will remove more than one stud, it is necessary to make temporary supports before beginning the project. Type of support required differs depending upon the type framing of the house – platform or balloon, as well as on the extent of the alteration, and how long it will take to complete the job. For instance, say your house has a platform frame. A remodeling job that requires a large opening in a load-bearing wall will require two temporary ceiling joist supports; one on either side of the wall. Use either the hydraulic jack method or make a temporary stud wall. The temporary stud wall method should be used if the supports will have to remain in place for more than a day. BALLOON FRAMING Many homes built before1930 used balloon framing (see page 31). Balloon framed houses require temporary support headers called whalers when making alterations that affect more than one stud in a load-bearing wall. For instance, say you plan on making an opening for an archway or window on a ground floor exterior (load bearing) wall. The whaler would be anchored to the wall studs above the planned rough opening, and extend at least 20-inches beyond each side of the opening. It would be supported with wall studs and bracing that would run adjacent to the rough opening. To accomplish this, you would follow the directions below:

1. Mark the area for the rough opening; remove wall surfaces around the rough opening, from floor to ceiling.

2. Using a 2X8 long enough to extend beyond the planned opening; center the

whaler against the wall studs, flush with the ceiling. Tack in place using 2-inch wallboard (flattop) screws.

3. Cut two lengths of 2X4 to fit snuggly between the bottom of the whaler and the

floor.



4. Slide the 2X4s into position at the ends of the whaler; carefully tap until the 2X4

and whaler surfaces are flush and the 2X4s vertically straight. Attach using nailing plates and 3-inch nails.

5. Use a drill with a 3/16-inch bit to drill two holes through the whaler and into each

stud it spans; secure the whaler using 3/8 X 4-inch lag screws with a washer.

6. Using a hammer, carefully tap tapered shims into place between the bottom of each temporary 2X4 support and the floor.

To make changes to an interior load-bearing wall on a balloon framed house, or one located on an upper floor, confer with a professional contractor. Have the contractor assess the wall before suggesting the best placement and type off temporary support for your project needs. PLATFORM FRAMING Most homes built after 1930 were constructed with platform framing (see page 22). Temporary support systems for platform framed houses should hold up the ceiling joists. This is because the ceiling platform, and not wall studs, carries the upstairs load. Supports can be made using either a hydraulic jack or temporary stud wall methods. Temporary Hydraulic Jack Supports If the ceiling joists run perpendicular, you would make a temporary hydraulic jack support the following way:

1. Cut three 2X4s that are 4-feet longer than the planned rough opening on the wall.

2. Make a top plate by nailing two of the 2X4s together using 3-inch nails; use the remaining 2X4 as the temporary bottom plate.

3. Place the bottom plate on the floor about 3 feet from the wall to allow room to

work; center it at the planned rough opening.

4. Put one hydraulic jack 2-feet from each end of the bottom plate. If the opening will be more than 7 or 8-feet wide, use three jacks. One at each end, the other centered in the middle.

5. Build a post for each jack by nailing together two 2X4s; make each post 3 to 4-

inches shorter than the distance between the top of the jack and the ceiling.

6. Use 3-inch counter sunk lag screws to attach the posts to the temporary top plate; position end posts 2-feet in from the ends of the top plate.



7. Cover the surface of the top plate with clean toweling, rugs, or other material to prevent damage to the ceiling.

8. Lift the structure into place, positioning the posts onto the hydraulic jacks. Adjust

the structure to ensure it is plumb.

9. Carefully raise the hydraulic jacks until the top plate makes contact with the ceiling and just begins to lift it. Do not lift too far or you could cause damage to the floor or ceiling.

In the event ceiling joists run parallel to the project wall, alter the above directions to include the following steps:

• Using two 2X4s nailed together, make two 4-feet long cross braces.

• Attach the cross braces to the temporary top plate, centering each brace 1-foot in from the ends of the top plate.

• Make sure that the bottom plate of the temporary support is directly over a

floor joist.

• In step 5, instead of making each post 3 or 4-inches shorter than the distance between the top of the jack and the ceiling, increase the distance to 8-inches.

• In step 7, instead of covering the top plate with material to protect the ceiling,

cover the surface of the braces.

• In step 9 carefully raise the jacks until the cross braces makes contact with the ceiling and just begins to lift it. Do not lift too far or you could cause damage to the floor or ceiling.

Temporary Stud Wall Supports As mentioned earlier on page 31, if temporary support needs to be left in place for longer than one day and ceiling joists run perpendicular to the project, opt for a temporary stud wall instead of hydraulic jack supports. Do the following:

1. Using 2X4s construct a stud wall that is 4-feet wider than the planned wall opening, and roughly 1¾-inch shorter than the distance from the floor to the ceiling. Space studs 16 to 17-inches on center.

2. Position the stud wall about 3-feet from the project wall to allow room to work;

be sure it is centered at the planned rough opening.



3. Slide a 2X4 the same length as the top of the temporary stud wall in between the temporary wall and the ceiling; be sure the wall is plumb.

4. Carefully drive wood shims between the top plate and the 2X4 at 12-inch

intervals.

Chapter 2 – BUILDING CODES AND PERMITS Note: definitions for the underlined words in this chapter are found in the Glossary of Terms, located at the front of the book. Every new construction project and any remodeling project involving structural or mechanical changes must comply with building code and permit requirements. Most local governments require a building permit and inspection process to insure that local building codes are met. Local building codes insure that material standards, installation guidelines, and structural requirements are met. For over 190 years, there have been national building code requirements for structural and mechanical safety purposes; and to help insure that work has been completed correctly. Most local building codes reflect national building code standards. In an effort to create an international standard, the International Code Council (ICC) was instituted in 2003; providing uniform building code guidelines on a world-wide basis. Of course, local codes supersede all other building codes. And local authorities have the final say on any given project. Before You Begin a Project One of the first steps any homeowner should take before starting a renovation project is to contact the local building authority to inquire as to what codes exist. And also what permits, if any, will be required. You may be required to fill out a form that includes a detailed description of the project, the address and legal description of the property, as well as estimated project costs. The local building authority may require 2 to 4 sets of plans or drawings – complete with floor and elevation plans, to be evaluated and approved. Once the plans have been thoroughly checked over and approved, they will be stamped. Or, a written approval notice will be mailed to the project owner. Normally, one set of approved plans will be kept by the local building authority, and one set mailed back to the applicant for their own records. Another set will be provided; to be displayed at the project site until the project has been completed.



Once renovation plans are approved, permit fees are assessed. Information regarding required inspections as work progresses is also provided. Amount of fees will be based on the overall cost of the project. Some permits are issued in stages, with the permit for the next aspect of work being issued after the previous phase has been completed, inspected, and approved. Local building inspectors check all work as it progresses; the project is considered complete only after the final inspection and approval has been made. General Building Permit Code Requirements Some of the more general building permit code requirements are:

• Light and ventilation – Including doors, windows, louvers, mechanical systems (HVAC), and other approved openings. In habitable rooms, window area must equal at least 8-percent of the floor space; at least half of the window area must be open able. Mechanical ventilation can replace operable windows. Bathrooms must ventilate to the outside with an intermittent rate of 5 cfm, and a continuous rate of 20 cfm. Bedrooms must supply outside air at a rate of 15 cfm for each occupant, primary bedrooms based on 2 occupants, additional bedrooms based on 1 occupant.

• Exits and openings – Habitable basements and bedrooms must have a

minimum of 2 exits. One can be the entrance; the other must be an emergency door or egress window not requiring a tool or key to operate. Window openings must have a minimum height of 34-inches with a minimum width of 20-inches. Basement windows must have window wells; those deeper than 44-inches must also have steps, with additional requirements. All exits must operate from the inside with no special tools or knowledge.

• Room Proportions – Habitable rooms must have dimensions of at least 7X7

feet, with 7½-foot headroom; measurement is from the finished floor to lowest part of ceiling. Obstructions must be spaced at least 4-feet apart; no less than 7-foot headspace from the obstruction to the finished floor. For sloped ceilings, at least 50-percent of the total floor area must have 7 ½-foot ceilings; no part of the floor can have ceilings less than 5-feet from the finished floor. Kitchens should have at least 50 sq. ft. gross floor area; hallways must be at least 3-feet wide. At least one habitable room in the house requires a minimum of 120 sq. ft. floor space; other habitable rooms require a minimum of 70 sq. ft. floor space.

• Fire safety – Interconnected and concealed spaces such as soffits, stair

stringers, ducts, drop and cove ceilings, fireplaces, chimneys, and areas around vents must be fire blocked to prevent fire spread. Perimeter (or exterior) walls are to be constructed on both sides to resist fire exposure for at least one hour. Note: a commonly used material for the interior side of these walls is 5/8-inch sheetrock. Approved batt or blanket insulation must be secured



between studs and partitions. From ceiling to floor at a minimum of 10-inch intervals; vertically and horizontally. Other approved spray-on or loose insulation materials and wall coverings must meet flame and smoke spread ratings. Smoke alarms must be installed; at least one per floor, including one in each bedroom and bedroom hallway. Multiple alarms must be wired together to activate all alarms if one triggers.

While general building code requirements must be met for any project, there are stringent additional code requirements for specialized aspects of the project, such as electrical and plumbing.

ELECTRICAL CODES While some local, state, or provincial governments may not require licensing or certification of general building contractors, electrical contractors are much more closely regulated. It is a universal requirement that electrical systems and wiring be either installed by a licensed electrician, or inspected and approved by a certified electrical inspector. While the National electrical code (NEC) is the authority for evaluating wiring, electrical inspectors also adhere to local building and electrical codes. An important aspect of any electrical wiring project is careful planning. This not only insures adequate service for immediate needs, but projects ahead for possible future needs, as well. When planning your project, you may want to visit with your local inspector. He or she can tell you which code requirements are necessary for your project, and can give you an information packet that outlines code requirements. Electrical Requirement Considerations A 15 amp receptacle might be adequate for a bedroom. But a family recreation room might require at least two 20 amp circuits. Building a large addition can add a considerable load to the main electrical service; in about 25% of existing homes, upgrades are required. Many structures have 60 amp service boxes. One common solution to meet the requirements of additional circuits is to upgrade to a 150 amp box. In some cases, the electrical service box may be adequate, but there is no space left to add new circuits. In that type situation a sub-panel can be added to provide additional space. Residential electrical work can be done by the homeowner, as long as the work is inspected and certified by an electrical inspector. However, there are technical aspects such as figuring circuit loads and wiring the service boxes that make the project difficult. And, of course, working with electricity is a serious matter and can be dangerous. Therefore, hiring a licensed electrician may be well worth the investment.



The following are some of the more common electrical code requirements:

• The rating of an outlet box must match the rating of the circuit. There is a

difference between an outlet box for a 20 amp circuit, and one for a 15 amp circuit. Using a 20 amp outlet on a 15 amp circuit could overload the circuit and create a hazard.

• Due to the close proximity of water and potential shock hazard, kitchen and

bathroom areas, as well as all exterior outlets, must be protected by GFCI (Ground-fault circuit interrupter) outlets. Devices that automatically shut off in the presence of a ground fault. In most localities, all outlets must be properly grounded.

• Electrical service cables installed in the framing must have at least 1¼-inch of

wood protecting the wire from nails or screws driven into the framing studs. In areas where 2X2-inch framing is used, metal protector plates must be properly placed to protect the wiring from screws or nails.

PLUMBING CODES AND PERMITS Plumbing systems are another aspect of new construction and renovation projects that have stringent and complex code guidelines. Again, while local codes and requirements may vary, most building officials and inspectors make evaluations based on the National uniform plumbing code; a highly technical, hard-to-read manual. Many bookstores carry handbooks based on the National uniform plumbing code, presenting material in layman’s terms; in an easier to comprehend format. To accommodate code variations from one local to the next, some handbooks include three separate plumbing zones. Again, local codes and requirements always supersede national code guidelines. Many local building inspectors provide convenient summary sheets of applicable code requirements for each individual project. Most local authorities require a permit for plumbing projects; or at least the plumbing phase of a larger project, requiring detailed plans or drawings. At least three copies are usually required for review; each must include a diagram of the water supply system, and the drain-waste-vent system. If code requirements are met, a permit is issued, granting legal permission to begin work. An inspector will visit the work site at or near completion of the project for final approval if all code requirements have been met.



Meeting Guidelines Calculating water distribution pipe diameter and length is complicated. Each fixture comes with a “unit rating.” This helps in calculating diameter and length needs. Some examples are toilet – 3 units, vanity sink – 1 unit, dishwasher – 2 units, bathtub –2 units, and shower – 2 units. The sum of unit ratings for all fixtures to be connected is the “total demand.” In conjunction with the total length of pipe from the street to the farthest fixture in the project, this determines pipe diameter requirements. The size of pipe from the street to the meter will also determine required diameters to meet the demand. Full-bore gate valves are required on the street side and house side of the water meter, as well as on the inlet side of heating system boilers and water heaters. All fixtures should have accessible shutoff valves; this can include the ball valve type. All sill-cocks should have individual control valves inside the house. In many localities, water hammer arresters are required to prevent pipes from rattling or vibrating when a fast acting valve is opened on a fixture. Vacuum breakers are required in a system to prevent any contaminated water from being drawn back into the system from outdoor sill-cocks or branch pipes that run underground. Because plumbing pipe is frequently routed through framing members, there are restrictions as to what size holes or notches can be cut in the various lumber sizes. For example, in a load-bearing 2X6-inch stud, the maximum hole size is 2 ¼-inches, maximum notch size is 1 3/8-inches deep. For a non-load-bearing 2X6-inch stud the maximum size hole is 3 5/16-inches in diameter; maximum notch size is 2 3/16-inches deep. Drainage Pipes In most areas, drain cleanouts are required at the end of each horizontal pipe run. Individual fixtures require a minimum drain trap size determined by the numerical fixture unit rating discussed earlier. There are also minimum horizontal and vertical drain pipe size requirements. Again, these are determined by the sum of fixture units that will feed into them. There are pipe support interval requirements for both horizontal and vertical runs of pipe, determined by length and pipe type; such as copper, ABS, PVC, CPVC, galvanized iron, and cast iron. Additionally, there are venting requirements; including pipe sizes, critical distances, vent pipe orientation to drain pipe (upward at no less than a 45-degree angle), as well as wet venting and auxiliary venting size and distance requirements. Finally, most localities have restrictions on which type of pipe can be used for certain applications, such as type underground sewer pipe running to a main sewer line or septic system.



Remember, for any project code requirement information, the local building inspector is your best source, and the final authority on meeting local requirements and final project approval.

Chapter 3 – UNIVERSAL DESIGN Note: definitions for the underlined words in this chapter are found in the Glossary of Terms, located at the front of the book. More and more homeowners are opting for universal design when making certain home renovations. The reason is simple. While standard design best suits the “average person” of average age, height, and agility, universal design accommodates all persons; regardless of age, size, or physical mobility. Creating a lifespan environment that serves each family member throughout their lifetime. Taking universal design into consideration when planning a home renovation project can help to avoid costly alterations at a later date that might be required because of limited physical ability. This not only creates living space that work best for all persons who live in or visit your home. The real estate value of your home is increased, as well. Universal interior design features include:

• Wider doorways • Wider traffic areas around furnishings and fixtures • Lower counter, table top, and workspace for ease of access, whether sitting or

standing • Lowered bathroom fixtures for greater independence • Consistent lighting throughout the house for uniform visual clarity • Brighter lighting for increased visibility • Nightlights in all areas of nighttime activity • Lights in all closets, as well as adjustable rods and shelves • Easy to grasp handles for all drawers and cabinet doors • Handrails on both sides of all steps • Reflective non-slip tape on all non-carpeted stairs • Grab bar installation where appropriate • Phones with large buttons installed in each room, making access more convenient • Lowered light fixtures with switch plates that make turning the light on and off

easier, such as rocker switches • Illuminated light switches where appropriate • Timed, motion, touch, or voice-activated light fixtures where appropriate



• Specially designed door and window hardware; including lever door handles, swing-clear hinges, single-lever and tandem latches, and remote locks or keyless entry systems

• Ease of movement, non-slip floors and floor coverings Note: most of the objects and materials required to make these type universal design modifications to your home can be purchased at local department or hardware stores. Kitchen stoves with front controls and a maximum reach of 21-inches best accommodates persons in wheelchairs. Showers with a non-slip floor, a seat 20-inches high and at least 18-inches wide, grab bars 33-inches off the floor, and a hand-held shower with controls no higher than 60-inches all allow persons with limited mobility increased independence. Installation of some of these type universal features requires the expertise of a professional contractor, while others can be incorporated into room design by the do-it-yourself homeowner. For projects requiring special skills, there are many kitchen, bathroom, and interior design professionals who specialize in universal design. Making a safer, more convenient, user-friendly environment for everyday life; one that best meets the needs of each family member, from the youngest to the oldest. Ramps The exterior of the home can also be altered, making access into the home and yard easier and safer for all persons. Steps, for instance, can be replaced with ramps – which are safer. No longer considered just for wheelchair use, ramps assist lots of different people of every age, with varied physical ability. Small children, household with elderly family members, people with weak knees or leg injury, and growing families that use carriages and strollers to transport infants can all benefit from ramps. Ramps can be constructed out of wood, concrete, asphalt, or metal. Styles of ramps vary:

• Straight-shot ramps that make no turns • L-shaped ramps that make a 90-degree turn • Switchback ramps that make a 180-degree turn

Have ramps built close to the house; for convenience sake as well as cosmetic appeal. Ramps that are 30-feet long or more will be easier to maneuver if there is a flat landing in the middle where the user can rest. This would also make a handy spot for sitting outside on a mild day to enjoy the fresh air. Ramps that are too steep are dangerous, so construct yours carefully. Design one with a maximum of 1-inch raise for each foot length. Even better is a length of 20-inches for every 1-inch vertical rise.



A minimum width of 42-inches is advised; allow a clearance of at least 60-inches long and 60-inches wide for landings; a landing at the end of the ramp and another at the top works best. Ramp Safety Features Guardrails 18-inches from the ramp floor that run along both sides will keep people and wheelchairs safely on track. Also install 2-inch high edging along the ramp floor. Handrail height should be 30 to 32-inches high; extend the railing at least 12-inches beyond the ramp at both ends. Handrails made from wood work best; metal is difficult to hold during cold weather, and can be uncomfortably hot on sunny days. Create ramps with a nonskid surface. To keep a wood ramp from becoming slippery in damp weather, paint the ramp with polyurethane to which sand has been added, and then place grit tapes horizontally across the ramp at spaced intervals. Use a broom to brush a concrete ramp before it hardens to create a roughened texture. A set of stairs off the ramp’s top landing will allow persons who prefer to use stairs quicker access to the house entry port. Benches near entrances provide space for persons to sit down objects they are carrying and rest. Sliding safety glass doors that open to a wood or concrete platform with a maximum slope of 1% will provide convenient access to the backyard. Building a safe ramp is more difficult than you might think, and therefore best left to experienced professionals. They will not only incorporate a safe, user-friendly design, but will be alert to possible safety hazards such as nearby trees that drop leaves or pods that would become slippery in damp weather. They can also construct the ramp so that water doesn’t pool on its surface. The following online resources offer guidelines on ramp construction: The Canadian Health Network – www.canadian-health-network.ca. The Canadian Health Network is not a building code; it is a public health agency. Among other things, they are committed to improved accessibility conditions for persons with limited mobility. The Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) – www.rampsplus.com/ada-ramp.asp. ADA is not a building code. It is a civil rights act offering guidelines for adequate accessibility features; for improved quality of life for persons with mobility limitations.



Chapter 4 – PROJECT PLANNING; HOME STRUCTURE Note: definitions for the underlined words in this chapter are found in the Glossary of Terms, located at the front of the book. Before beginning a home renovation project, there are basic preliminary steps which must be taken. Before even formulating a renovation design plan, you must be knowledgeable about and understand important structural features of the home. The preceding chapter provided an overview of house structure basics. It is vital to clearly understand the structure of your home before beginning any renovation project that will alter the structure in any way. Therefore, a review of that information as well as other aspects of house structure is important. Since many renovation plans call for moving or removing walls and making changes to the building services such as plumbing, electrical, and HVAC, it is important you know details about each. A load-bearing wall, for instance, cannot simply be removed. By mapping out the structure of your home and service systems within it, you will have a better grasp about the feasibility of a project, and how much work will be required to complete it.

A REVIEW OF THE STRUCTURE OF YOUR HOME The framing of your home is the foundation, floors, walls, and roof which all tie together to form a solid structure. These are the actual boards which make up the floor joists, wall studs, and roof trusses or rafters. There are two types of framing used in home construction as noted in chapter 1 – platform framing and balloon framing:

• Platform framing – the style of framing used in most modern construction

projects. For each story of the structure, wall studs extend from a bottom plate at the floor (or foundation) to the top plate which is either attached to floor joists of the next story, or roof trusses. The floor structures for each story are platforms that extend to the perimeter of the house. Because each story has its own support structure, this style framing is much less complicated when making alterations.

• Balloon framing – commonly found in older homes; consisting of wall studs that

extend from the foundation to the roof structure – even multiple story structures. The first story rests on the foundation; second and third story levels are supported by 1X4 ribbons set in notches in the stud walls.

Both styles of framing are supported by the foundation and a main beam or girder, in the center of the structure. In platform framed structures, the load-bearing walls are easy to identify. They have a double top plate; consisting of two layers of framing lumber.



All exterior walls are load bearing. As are interior walls that are aligned above the center support beam, or any other support beams included in the structure. Service System Review It is equally important to understand the building service systems of the structure, as outlined in chapter 1. As well as the location of their components; plumbing sewer and supply pipes, electrical wiring and circuit loads, HVAC plumbing pipes, air ducts, and wiring. When the renovation plan is just a re-design of existing floor space, chances are building service system components may only need to be moved, if affected at all. However, if you add floor space in a renovation design, keep in mind that it probably will place added demands on existing services, and upgrading system capacities may be necessary in order to meet them. Plumbing systems usually consist of a drain-waste-vent system or DWV, and a fresh water supply system. DWV systems operate on gravity; the proximity of a vent is crucial to proper operation of each drain. Water supply lines are under pressure, but can be routed almost anywhere to suit a plan. The electrical system is made up of many wiring circuits running through the frame walls, floor, and ceiling of a structure; stemming from a central electrical service box. They may be routed and configured in countless ways, making it difficult to follow wiring runs for each individual circuit. Mapping the electrical system can be simplified by turning each circuit breaker off in turn to see which outlets and fixtures are connected to it. Following each wiring run is not necessary, but each fixture, outlet, and appliance connected to the circuit should be noted to accurately determine loads and capacities. A forced-air HVAC system will have a furnace that heats the air and feeds it to a main supply duct. This in turn feeds branch ducts that supply heated air into each room or area of the structure. A second series of ducts returns cold air back to the furnace. To map a forced-air system, follow the ducts from each room or area back to the main duct, and the main duct back to the furnace. Hot water or steam systems use a network of pipes that carry hot water or steam to radiators that heat the area. Some systems just have one pipe that connects all radiators together in a loop. Other systems may have an individual feed and return for each radiator.



DEFINING PROJECT NEEDS Your first step in defining project needs is to determine “why” you are planning to alter your home. Is it to add more living space, such as a family room, office, or extra bedroom? Is it to increase floor space in existing rooms? Is it to update and modernize, or to make changes for greater ease of movement and convenience? Is it for extra storage space or solely for cosmetic purposes? Or, to incorporate a more universal design to accommodate younger persons, older persons, or those who are physically challenged? Once you have determined purposes for wanting to make alterations, it is time to begin to make actual plans. Before formulating your renovation plan, check building code requirements. Most local codes follow standard national guidelines; however, some localities may differ. Local building codes always supersede national standards, so it is best to consult your local building inspector for local guidelines. In addition to code requirements for building services, there are also requirements for natural window lighting, entrances and exits, and minimum room dimensions. (For details see chapter 2, page32). Checking codes prior to drawing out your plan will help determine whether or not your ideas are feasible, of if an alternative plan should be sought. Any remodeling project that requires new construction, structural or mechanical changes during demolition, repair, alteration, or enlargement requires a detailed scale drawing of the plan. There are two basic kinds of construction drawings: floor plans and elevation drawings. Floor plans Floor plans show a room from above; detailing room dimensions, closets, doors, windows, partitions, and the relationship that room has to other rooms on the same floor. A two-dimensional scale drawing that shows the design and layout of a single floor of a building structure, or proposed structure. Elevation drawings Elevation drawings provide a side view of a room; detailing one wall per drawing. Elevation drawings provide more architectural detail, and are made for both interior and exterior views. HOW TO WORK WITH DRAWINGS Floor plans and elevation drawings combine all the detailed information about structure, mechanical system specification and placement, and project design features on paper. Using existing blue prints or architectural drawings of your home can drastically simplify the process; change or add to the drawings to reflect the renovation plan. Working with



drawings also helps you visualize how the changes will affect the overall layout and feel of your home. When creating drawings or altering existing ones, concentrate on one story at time; transfer room dimensions onto ¼-inch grid paper, using a scale of ¼-inch to represent 1-foot. Label each room carefully. Note its overall dimensions, including wall thickness, without trim. Include all elements to your drawings:

• Overall dimensions measured from the outside of the house. These can be used as a crosscheck for the accuracy of interior dimensions.

• Permanent fixtures such as tubs, showers, sinks, countertops, fireplaces, major

appliances, etc.

• Plumbing, electrical, and HVAC components. Note: sometimes a separate set of drawings is required for these elements; their specifications and placement is crucial.

• Windows and doors, including direction of door swing.

• Stairs and their direction in relation to the house story being drawn.

• Any overhead elements, such as wall cabinets or exposed beams; use dashed

lines to represent these features. For elevation drawings, use the same ¼-inch = 1 foot scale; draw each separate wall. Each room will have four walls, or views; each is called an “elevation.” You should include:

• Floor-to-ceiling measurements, as well as floor-to-ceiling measurements for features such as exposed beams and soffits.

• Doors, including height (floor to top of door opening) and width.

• Windows, including height (floor to top of opening), sill height (floor to top of

sill), and width of opening.

• Trim and any other decorative elements. Use tissue overlays to show any hidden elements. Tissue overlays also come in handy when proposing changes to existing plans, or for alternative plan purposes. Once you have settled on a design, draft a final drawing and begin a materials list for the project.



CONSIDER HIRING A DESIGN PROFESSIONAL To finalize your project plans after completing your floor plan and elevation drawings, it is wise to consult with the local building inspector. They can help insure all code requirements have been met, and may also have helpful suggestions on ways to enhance your project design in ways that cut costs and are more energy efficient. Design professionals are also knowledgeable about local code requirements. In fact, you may want to enlist the services of an architect or specialized designer to help you get your design plans down on paper. Consider the following:

• Kitchen and bath designers are experts in the two most important areas of the

home. They can provide you with detailed information and great design ideas, sometimes even acting as a general contractor for the project.

• Interior designers work with each room in the home to create a specific style or

theme, and can work in customized features to greatly enhance your project plans.

• Architects are licensed professionals who design and produce detailed construction plans for a structure. Their services are expensive, but can be well worth the cost for a complex renovation or new construction project.

• Building designers are similar to architects. But they usually have more

experience with hands-on building and design, with less experience in engineering aspects.

• Design/Build firms offer both design and general contractor services for a project,

from start to finish; charging one flat fee. Professional design services can be expensive, so it is wise do as much planning and preparation work as possible on your own. The more involvement you have in the project, the more money you can save.

THE IMPORTANCE OF A MATERIALS LIST An important aspect of every home renovation project is the materials list. Because a key factor of project success is proper planning, a detailed materials list should be prepared for even minor renovation work. Imagine purchasing a piece of furniture that requires assembly. The kit may contain all of the materials necessary for proper assembly. But without a detailed description list of the various materials required for assembly, the project can become complicated. It may not get completed properly, or without a great deal of unnecessary frustration. Not to mention



wasted time trying to sort out what is required, and for what purpose. Or whether or not everything you need is there. The materials list should not only contain the types and amounts of materials required to complete the project, but detailed descriptions of each item, as well. For instance, if the contractor you hire to install an oak hardwood floor lists just “oak planks,” on the materials list, request specifics. The grade, dimension, and finish of the oak plank used all determine the quality, appearance, and durability of the floor. Not to mention cost; prices can differ from $2 to as much as $15 or more per square foot. In addition to materials used, tools required to complete the project should also be listed. Again, include specifics. Instill of just “drill,” list size of bits required to complete the job. This will help insure you have everything needed before you start the project. Formulate a materials list yourself or obtain one from the contractor, if any, who will be doing the work. The list will be used to help determine overall project cost.

ESTIMATING PROJECT COST Once you have the completed the final floor plan drawings, you can proceed with finding a contactor and obtaining any necessary building permits. General contractor candidates can provide detailed quotes based on the project drawings, and formulate accurate materials lists and costs. It is important that you request a detailed quote for the project, with costs for services, materials, and other expenses broken down. Don’t settle for just an estimate. Quotes are firm. Estimates are not firm, and costs can drastically increase for a project. By requesting a firm quote, you are asking for a cost guarantee. Contactors will make allowance for cost over-runs in the quote. Estimating the cost can be rather complicated: homeowners will need to know exactly what materials will be needed, and at what price. As mentioned earlier, specifics for lumber dimensions and quantities, hardware and fixtures, concrete, roofing materials, wiring, plumbing pipe and fixtures, floor coverings, sheetrock, siding, paint, appliances, and any other materials are required to help calculate project costs. Don’t forget to include all contracted services and building permit fees in the final figure. The general contractor contract should specify who will be responsible for obtaining necessary permits. Usually the contractor is named; he is more knowledgeable about legal requirements and can answer questions from the building inspector more efficiently. As a rule several copies of your drawings should be submitted to the local building inspector for examination and approval.



OBTAINING A REMODELING LOAN Investing in home remodeling and improvement is a very popular trend. Not only do home improvements enhance home usability and quality of life; they improve the appearance of the home and increase property value, as well. Your final floor plan and elevation drawings, along with detailed project and materials costs, are necessary information required when applying for one of the following two types of home improvement loans:

• Unsecured loan - in an unsecured loan, the borrower agrees to repay the loan in installments according to a pre-set schedule. The only guarantee the lender has is the borrower’s signature. This also referred to as a signature loan.

• Secured loan - with a secured loan, the amount borrowed is secured by an

asset; owned free and clear by the borrower. This can be seized and sold by the lender in the event the loan is not repaid according to the agreed upon repay installment schedule. Proceeds gained from selling the asset go toward paying off the loan.

In home improvement loans, the asset most commonly used to secure the loan is the home itself. This pledge or promise to pay is called a “mortgage.” There can be more than one mortgage secured by the home. When there is more than one mortgage on the property, they are ranked in priority; hence the terms “first mortgage” and “second mortgage.” There are essentially three good reasons to acquire a secured loan:

• To borrow more money • To get a lower interest rate • To reduce taxes

In preparation for applying for a loan, gather information about options from different lenders. A mortgage broker usually has more lending resources available; a bank often has the “small town” touch, with a loan officer you may know personally. A specialized lender deals with one or two specific types of loans, such as home mortgages or re-financing a mortgage. A lender can help pre-qualify you for a loan, and can give insight about what the likely result of your application will be. There are three types of lenders:

• Mortgage broker • Bank • Specialized lender



When evaluating a loan application, lenders consider the following:

• The applicant’s income • The applicant’s debts • The applicant’s credit history • The applicant’s property value

Many lenders assess a fee based on points. One point is usually 1-percent of the loan amount; a typical fee might be 1 to 3 points. In addition to loan fees, a borrower will have to pay interest on a loan. This will be either fixed or variable. A fixed interest rate is one that remains the same throughout the payment cycle of the loan; 5yr. – 10 yr. – 15 yr. – 20 yr. etc. A variable interest rate can fluctuate throughout the payment cycle of the loan. Interest rate changes are commonly based on what the current market prime rate is. There are also other financing options available. Including savings accounts, credit cards, mortgage re-finance, home equity loans, homeowner loans, value added loans, and contractor financing. The two most popular choices for home improvement projects are home equity loans and value added loans. A home equity loan is a second mortgage based on the equity the homeowner has already built in the first mortgage. A value added loan is based on what the value of the home will be once improvements are completed.

FINANCIAL OPTIONS FOR THE ELDERLY Elderly homeowners on limited fixed incomes or that have physical limitations may qualify for assistance from several resources. If equipment or accessibility modifications are prescribed by a doctor, there may be federal income tax benefits as well as Medicaid benefits available. Contact your local county welfare office for Medicaid eligibility. Also contact your local Social Security office for any equipment covered under the program. Local Vocational Rehabilitation programs have “independent living” projects that provide assistance for modifications. Also, under the Technology Related Assistance to Individuals with Disabilities Act of 1988, many states offer assistance with acquiring equipment and locating funds. Contact your local Center for Independent Living for information on funding and resources. Other Programs



Other financial help possibilities include programs that provide low-interest deferred loans for low to moderate income senior citizen homeowners. Emergency energy repair and regular home maintenance loans may also be possible. As well as those available through private donations and major utility providers for remodeling efforts that include energy efficient furnaces, storm windows, etc. Canada’s Senior Citizen Home Repair Program (SCHRP) is another possibility. It provides a one-time grant that enables qualifying senior homeowners to make necessary home improvement repairs. In America, numerous resources exist for the elderly on city, county, state, and government levels. The city of Hemet, California, for instance, offers qualifying senior citizens up to $800 per fiscal year, free home repair; with no repayment required. Kent, Washington has a home repair program funded through federal Community Development Block Grant (CDBG) money to help their elderly with home repairs, large and small. Including plumbing, disabled access, storm doors, complete roof replacement, new heating systems, electrical system upgrades, and more Research online for existing senior citizen home repair programs. Available on a national government level, or through local resources. Some programs offer assistance to persons 55-years and older.

Chapter 5 – FINDING THE RIGHT CONTRACTOR Note: definitions for the underlined words in this chapter are found in the Glossary of Terms, located at the front of the book. Many homeowners are giving special attention to their homes from the perspective of building an important financial asset. One used for financial leverage or loan security. Some homeowners even look at their home as a retirement fund to be liquidated and used to benefit the golden years. One very popular way to increase the profit potential of your real estate is through home improvement and renovation projects. With emphasis on the importance of this asset – the home –it only makes good sense to carefully select just the right contractor for renovation and home improvement projects. A contractor that will complete the job using high quality workmanship; one who won’t skimp on or substitute specified building materials that could compromise the value of your investment. The type and scope of the project you are planning will determine what type contractor will be needed. If you are planning a larger project, you may want to hire a general



contractor. General contractors oversee the entire project and manage all aspects of the work. They bring in the necessary subcontractors and schedule and coordinate the various stages of the project so that work progresses smoothly and quickly. Subcontractors are specialized in certain areas of expertise such as carpentry, plumbing, or HVAC. Subcontractors may be hired for the specialized portions of a project by the general contractor, or hired for consultation or completion of a specific task by the homeowner.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR When seeking the services of either a general or specialized contractor for your renovation project, there are important guidelines that you should follow:

• A good candidate should have expertise in the type of renovation that you are undertaking. If remodeling a bathroom, you will obviously need the services of an experienced plumber to move or add new plumbing lines and fixtures. The specialized contractor should have required licensing and certification in their field.

• A reliable contractor will carry up-to-date contractor’s insurance.

• The contractor should have numerous references and recommendations.

• Look for a contractor without violations or legitimate complaints on record at the

local building authority.

• Most good contractors will be in high demand; contracting their services and arranging project timelines may need to be done well in advance.

WHERE TO LOOK There are several different resources available for finding a reliable contractor:

• Word of mouth references from friends, relatives, or neighbors who have recently had a home renovation project completed.

• Local building authorities.

• Local classified or yellow page advertisements.

• Local building or trade associations.



• Online Internet contractor locating services that help project owners connect

with local service provider members. Some offer their services free to project owners. Two reliable resources are www.handycanadian.com for Canadian contractor-to-project owner services, and www.handyamerican.com for USA contractor-to-project owner services.

A rule of thumb is that a candidate should live in close proximity to your area. Once you have assembled a list of likely candidates, use telephone interviews to fine tune the list. Tell each candidate where you live, and offer general information about your plans in order to discover whether or not they would be interested in undertaking the project. Include such information as type and extent of renovation and remodeling that needs to be done, expected budget, and desired start and completion timetables.

OBTAINING QUOTES Select candidates that seem like the best choices. Provide each with detailed plans and specifications for the project, and ask for quotes. To help insure accurate quotes, provide each with exact duplicates of plans and project specifications. It is important to be thorough with all details. There are countless variations and types of materials; all with different cost factors, as well as recommended applications. For instance, modern trends in the lumber industry have ushered in engineered wood products which are offered in addition to traditional lumber products. Design-specific components such as main support beams and engineered floor joists are available, and may be more cost effective than traditional lumber. Traditional lumber also comes in different wood types and grades. For example, Hem fir is an economical choice that comes from modern growing techniques. It is usually “S-dry,” which means sun-dried; it may contain high moisture levels, which makes it more prone to mold, warping and twisting. Not the best choice for a stud wall or plate. Kiln-dried Douglas fir is a stable, high-quality choice; but comes at a premium price. Be specific in your request that the contractor provide an itemized quote which includes all labor, permits, materials, and any other costs. Ask that all costs, including each type material, be itemized and priced individually. Whether you have a design professional for the planning process, or do it yourself, a thorough, detailed materials list is necessary for obtaining an accurate quote. If a contractor will be compiling the materials list, be sure he understands your expectations and preferences in available choices.



THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ESTIMATES & QUOTES Many contactors provide ball-park figure estimates for a project that may end up being considerably lower that the actual costs once work is under way. Quotes are somewhat legally binding, and are considered a statement from the contractor that project cost will not exceed the quote. Therefore, it is important that you specify that you are requesting a quote, not an estimate. Sometimes there are circumstances that might prevent a contractor from adhering to an exact cost amount. For instance, unexpected price increases for a particular material. Potential variables such as this are normally covered by special clauses in the contract agreement, such as acceptable material alternatives; more about that later. Once you obtain and review all quotes, refine the list further. Cut it down to 3 to 4 candidates, and then arrange for a face-to-face meeting with each

THE INTERVIEWING PROCESS As you meet with each candidate, ask questions and gather as much information as possible. It is a good idea to use a checklist when interviewing each contractor to ensure each aspect of the interview has been covered. For your convenience, a printable “Contractor Reference Checklist” form has been included in the Printable Forms section at the front of this book. The interview process should include:

• Verification or visual proof of current licenses, insurance coverage, and bonding. • List of references; especially recent projects. • Contractor’s experience with projects similar to yours. • The contractor’s detailed, itemized quote that includes labor, materials, permits,

and any other costs; in addition to projected hours that will be spent each week working on your project, and start and finish dates.

• List of possible substitute materials if there are problems obtaining the original. • Contractor warranties on materials and workmanship. • Frequency that contractor will be onsite to supervise workers and sub-contractors. • Whether or not the contractor will be working on other projects simultaneously

with your own; if so, the amount of time each week that will be devoted to your project.

Spending time discussing these things with each candidate gives you a chance to evaluate their demeanor. Ask if they have any projects in progress. If so, ask to visit the job site; to observe their work style, workmanship, and how well they interact with others.



Before making your final selection, thoroughly check all references and credentials. If you don’t use the printable Contractor Reference Checklist located at the front of the book when contacting references, use the checklist below as a guideline as to what type questions to ask:

• Customer’s name. • Date contacted. • What work did this customer have done? • When was the work completed? • Did the customer consider other contractors before hiring this one? • If yes, why was this contractor chosen? • What responsibilities did the contractor have for this project? • What was the best aspect of working with this contractor? • Did the customer have problems with any aspect of the contractor’s work or

service? • Do they recommend this contractor? • If they needed additional work done would they hire this contractor again?

In addition, ask how the contractor performed in the following areas:

• Workmanship • Kept on budget • Kept on schedule • Kept work site clean and organized • Communicated progress • Provided good advice and suggestions • Resolved any problems satisfactorily • Was easy to talk and work with • Delivered what was promised

Finally, check with the local building authority to ensure there are no legitimate complaints or violations on record against the contractor.

MAKING CONTRACTOR SELECTION Now you must decide which one candidate is best for your project. Make copies of the handy Contractor Selection Checklist in the Printable Forms section, located at the front of the book. This will help you make comparisons to determine the right contractor to select.



Besides necessary licensing and insurance (including Worker’s Compensation), possible health factors are also important. For instance, are there any health-related issues that could delay things once the project is underway? Because you will have to deal with the contractor throughout project completion, expertise in the required field isn’t the only thing to look for during the interview. How was eye contact? Did the contractor sound confident in his or her ability to complete the job; did they take time to thoroughly answer any questions you had? Are they the type of person you would feel comfortable with, working in and around your home? Having contact with you and your family on a nearly daily basis? How receptive were they to your ideas? Did they have the attitude, “I’m the expert…I don’t need your suggestion!” If so, perhaps the contractor isn’t right for you. After all, it is your home; you will be the one living with any changes made. You will also be the one paying for work performed. You have a right to expect that the completed project will meet your expectations. And that the quality of work will measure up to your standards. Final Tips While interviewing contractors, remember; working together will be a two-way street. During the interview, the contractor will be measuring you up as a possible client. It is important for you to adhere to some standards, too. Be thorough about your wants and expectations; be willing to meet the contractor halfway for the purpose of project success. And, have a clear picture of what you want. If you’ve prepared project plans carefully, there won’t be the risk of you changing your mind 10 times in mid stream, once work has already begun. Causing the contractor to become frustrated, adding further expense to the project, and delaying completion time unnecessarily.

Chapter 6 – THE WORK CONTRACT Note: definitions for the underlined words in this chapter are found in the Glossary of Terms, located at the front of the book. Once a contractor has been selected to complete your project, meet again to make final arrangements, and draw up a formal contract agreement. If a design professional and a contractor will both be involved in the project, all three parties should agree to and sign the contract; homeowner, designer, and contractor.



A contract is a binding legal agreement that details the project. It provides a complete description of the project, expectations of all parties concerned, and sets a price for work to be completed. Therefore, all parties involved should thoroughly read and understand the terms of the contract before signing. If there are any terms or clauses not included in the contract at the time of signing, they are not legally binding. Verbal agreements and vague references are worthless in regards to a signed contract. If there are any terms that are not clear or might be misunderstood, ask for an explanation or revision; if necessary, consult with a lawyer. A good contract should be detailed and specific about all aspects of the project. It should include:

• Full names, addresses, and contact information of all parties involved -

homeowner and contractor (and designer, if applicable). If the contractor is a representative from a contracting firm, include full name, address, and full contact information for the firm, as well.

• The physical, legal address of the project site.

• The exact start and completion dates; penalties, if any for not meeting completion

dates. Include clauses specifying acceptable reasons for delay. (Weather, material shipping delays, etc.).

• The detailed plans and drawings for the project.

• Detailed specifications of materials, hardware, and fixtures.

• Detailed costs of the project; including itemized labor and materials costs, and

payment schedule terms. Including amounts and dates. (30-percent to 50-percent in advance is common, with an installment mid-point of the project, and final payment at completion; after final approval of work.)

• Specification of all work being completed by subcontractors (plumbing,

electrical, HOT WIRE, etc.) Include full name, address, and contact information of each person involved.

• Specification of all required permits; who is responsible for obtaining them and

payment of fees.

• A statement of the contractor’s insurance and bonding coverage.

• Assurance of full compliance with all building codes.

• Details of any warranties of materials or workmanship, as well as duration of warranties, and warranty limitations.



• Specifications on construction site clean up. Include schedule (daily, weekly, etc.).

Specify who is responsible for removing trash; and who is responsible for final clean-up after project completion.

In addition, any special clauses should be included in the contract that addresses unusual circumstances. For instance:

• Contingency clauses that allow for additional charges for unexpected

circumstances – i.e. hitting solid rock when excavating. Since contractors add 15%-20% to the overall quote price when there is no contingency clause, having one in the contract may be a more economical alternative. Many homeowners provide for an additional 10%-20% of the full quote amount as a contingency for unexpected costs.

• A right of recession clause that gives the homeowner the right to back out of a

contract within 72 hours of signing.

• An arbitration clause, where the homeowner and contractor agree upon and name a method for resolving disputes; such as binding arbitration.

• A release of liens that assures the homeowner that he will not be held responsible

for or presented with any charges, debts, or liens that are filed against the contractor.

• A materials substitution clause that makes provision in advance for situations that

may arise, necessitating a variance from the original materials specifications. For instance, the unavailability of a certain product. Whenever it appears necessary to invoke changes, it should never be done without the approval of the homeowner. And a written statement from the contractor noting why a substitution is necessary, as well as changes in costs. Any resulting delays should also be noted.

There are many printed “standard contract” forms available. However, it is important to understand that each contract agreement is individual, and unique. If a pre-printed standard form is used, make sure every blank gets filled in. If one aspect does not apply, fill it in with “N/A” (does not apply). Strike out any clauses you do not agree with, or re-write the contract before signing. Again – verbal contracts are worthless! Always get a drawn up contract agreement in writing, signed by all parties involved. Use the handy “Contract Content Checklist” located in the Printable Forms section at the front of the book to help insure you don’t leave pertinent information out of the contract.



Chapter 7 – KEYS TO PROJECT SUCCESS Note: definitions for the underlined words in this chapter are found in the Glossary of Terms, located at the front of the book. Understanding the structure of your home, defining the purpose for home alterations, carefully planning the project out, and taking the time to critique each contractor candidate before making a selection will all help ensure project success. Other things that will help your project run smoothly include:

• A realistic expectation as to project time involvement.

• A realistic expectation in regards to the inconvenience to daily routine.

• A realistic expectation about all costs that will be incurred; expect 10% to 20% in

unforeseen expenses – over and above the full cost quote.

• Give neighbors advance notice about the impending project if it will last more than a few weeks. They will appreciate the courtesy of being warned about increased noise, clutter, dirt, and activity created by the construction phase of the project.

• If hiring more than one professional, get them together as early in the project as

possible so they can begin working together as a team.

• If there is a difference of opinion between service providers hired to complete your project, make sure differences are resolved before the project gets underway.

• Be sure you have a full understanding of project needs before work begins.

• Aside from checking out all contractor credentials and references before hiring,

check with the Better Business Bureau to discover whether or not any complaints have been filed. If so, get as many details as possible to assess whether or not the complaint was fair.

• Make sure you have full contact information for all contractors who will be

working on your project; including company address and telephone number, and the contractor’s personal contact information. This includes home phone number, cell phone number, and physical home address (not a post office box).

• As mentioned before, get everything in writing. Verbal agreements and

understandings are worthless; leaving room for later misunderstandings and “memory lapses.”



• Make sure the materials list includes a detailed description of material specifics – including manufacturer, type, and grade; as well as acceptable alternate materials in the event of unavailability of a specified item.

• The Construction Lien Act allows project owners to withhold 10-percent of the

total cost of the project for 45 days beyond project completion. This helps protect the project owner from having a lien put on their property in the event the contractor fails to pay all subcontractors and suppliers.

• Although a repeated theme in other areas of this book – make sure the contract

clearly outlines all aspects of the project, including promises and agreements made by both the project owner and contractor. Do not sign the contract before you have carefully read all of it.

• If the project has been financed by a loan, check before work begins as to whether

or not the loan authority must approve any changes made once the contract has been signed. Find out who will be responsible to pay extra funds required, if any, as well as how funds will be paid.

• Make sure you have a statement of all material warranties that include what is

covered; for what period of time, as well as any restrictions.

• Make sure terms of payments are clearly understood; for instance, whether or not a specific payment is contingent on completion of certain aspects of the project.

• Get penalties, if any, in writing in the event the project is not completed on schedule.

• Get in writing how many days each week the contractor plans to work on the

project. If the contractor has a hired work crew, get in writing how often he will be on site overseeing the project.

• Keep open communication with the contractor throughout the project – a vital

element in avoiding conflicts and problems.

• Visit the work site at intervals; discuss project progress with the contractor.

• Remain flexible when minor changes occur that do not affect the appearance, function, or quality of the project; note all changes in writing.

Also, as previously mentioned, avoid the use of pre-printed contract forms. Each contract is as individual as the project and agreed upon terms. Again, if you do use a pre-printed form do the following:

• Fill in every blank; “N/A” if not applicable, “NIL” if that item does not apply. • Clearly strike out aspects of the contract you do not agree with. • Attach an amendment, if necessary, signed by both parties.



HANDLING DISAGREEMENTS Regardless how carefully you try to avoid conflicts and disagreements, they are sometimes unavoidable. If a disagreement between you and your contractor does develop, do the following:

• Set a time free from distractions when you and your contractor can get together;

avoid trying to resolve conflicts on site, in front of others.

• Go over the contract together in an attempt to resolve the issue.

• Remain calm; request that the contractor do the same.

• Listen to the contractor’s side of the issue without interruption; request that the contractor do the same for you.

• Try and be flexible when the difference in opinion does not affect the quality,

function, appearance, timely completion of the project, or else unnecessarily add to the cost.

• If the situation does not get resolved, seek the opinion from someone

knowledgeable.

• If the situation persists and is serious enough, discuss the situation with your lawyer.

The most common project problems that arise during the project include: unsatisfactory workmanship, delays, and misunderstandings. If the contractor is behind schedule due to a purposeful failure to honor the agreed upon work schedule (as outlined in the contract), insist they adhere to it. If they refuse, and if permitted by your province, send them a registered letter threatening to cancel the contract and seek refund of the down payment. Note within the letter that a copy has been sent to the consumer protections department of your local government, and/or the contractor’s bonding company. Poor workmanship can be reported to the government department from which the contractor obtained their license; if deemed appropriate, necessary action will be taken. If you feel some aspects of the project are not being completed up to local or Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC) standards, or America’s national or local building code requirements, report it in writing to the appropriate inspection department.



The contractor will be forced to make necessary corrections at their own expense if they are found to be in violation of code requirements.

Chapter 8 – PROJECTS; BEFORE YOU BEGIN Note: definitions for the underlined words in this chapter are found in the Glossary of Terms, located at the front of the book. Before beginning a home renovation project, there are questions to ask and considerations to be made. First and foremost, identify the purpose; what is it you are seeking to accomplish? Is it to add living space, improve appearance, or to serve a special function? Are you seeking to increase energy efficiency, value of the property, or several factors at the same time? For adding living space on a limited budget, homeowners can turn to the attic or basement to utilize space already included in the structure. This avoids undertaking new construction and the associated high costs. To achieve new décor with updated furnishings, bathrooms and kitchens offer an opportunity to drastically change appearance and design; also without the costs and complications of new construction. In Chapter 8 we will look at these four important areas of the home and considerations involved in project planning for each: attics, basements, bathrooms, and kitchens.

ATTICS - EVALUATION Attics are commonly overlooked as a resource for adding finished living space to a home. That’s because not all attics are suitable, due to inadequate headroom and small space that does not meet minimum local building code requirements. That being the case, it is necessary to carefully evaluate your attic to make sure a renovation project is feasible before making plans to utilize the area. The best guideline for evaluating an attic is your local building code. This defines all requirements that must be met in your renovation; including minimum headroom, minimum number of electrical outlets, ventilation requirements, etc. The best resource for these guidelines is you local building inspector, who can oftentimes provide you with requirements specific to your type of renovation project. Local building code requirements are also frequently available at the local library.



Begin your attic evaluation with an inspection of the framing members. If your roof is supported by rafters, you can proceed to the next step. If it is supported with trusses, you will have to find another way to add space to your home. Trusses have support members that do not allow enough adequate open space in the room for inhabitable purposes. Next, check for headroom and overall floor space. Local building codes commonly require a minimum of 7 ½-feet of headroom in at least 50-percent of what is termed “usable floor space.” Usable floor space is usually defined as the portion of the room with headroom of at least 5-feet from floor to ceiling. Minimum requirements apply to the finished space after all flooring and ceiling surfaces are finished off. Sometimes rafters and floor framing requires reinforcement, which will also affect the finished headroom space. Rafter support elements such as collar ties, rafter ties, and purlins can sometimes be moved and adjusted. But only after consulting with an architect or engineer, to insure that the load bearing capabilities of the roof system are not compromised. Rafters will need to be inspected for any signs of stress or damage; including cracks, sagging, or insect damage. Also check for signs of water leakage; if present, this indicates that roofing will need to be repaired or replaced before engaging in the renovation – adding to project cost. Even healthy rafters may be too small to support the added weight of finishing materials, or provide enough space for adequate insulation material. If this seems to be the case, have a professional check your attic from the rafters to the floor and the supporting walls below. Sometimes it is necessary to reinforce supporting walls. Floor joists can be reinforced by adding “sister” joists or new joists between existing ones. Reinforcing support walls can sometimes be complicated; requiring support beams and posts or reinforcement of the foundation. There are other code requirements that must also be met. If the space is to be used as a bedroom, there must be at least one exit to the outside – such as an outside stairwell or egress window. There are minimum requirements for ventilation and natural light, which might mean adding windows or skylights. There must be an inside stairwell at least 36-inches wide with enough room for a 36-inch landing at both the top and bottom. Keep in mind this will affect the floor space both upstairs and in the room below. Finally, check existing mechanical elements in the attic. Plumbing and electrical systems can easily be moved or installed around other elements. But elements such as chimneys are immovable, and will need to be included in the design plan. Some local codes have stringent requirements for framing around a chimney. This might be the perfect



opportunity to have your chimney inspected by a fire official and obtain local code requirements regarding it. PROJECT PLANNING Once the attic has passed evaluation, hire an architect, engineer, or building contractor to contemplate the elements that will be affected by the project, and begin to develop blueprints. Use original house blueprints to learn more about the structure and location of mechanical rough-ins. If you don’t have blueprints, try obtaining them from the original builder, or the local building authority. You will need a material list to accurately estimate costs for the project. Communicate your needs to the professional and your over-all preferences for layout and design, which will affect choice of materials and costs involved. One aspect that can drastically affect project overhead is the addition of windows and/or skylights; available in countless styles from numerous manufacturers, with a large variation in pricing. Some contemporary designs available are nothing short of breathtaking; but these can add considerably to costs. While many finished attic projects include a bathroom, some types of bathroom fixtures may not be suitable for the allotted area. Space limitations may not allow for a large garden tub, and adequate support for a hot tub or Jacuzzi may not be feasible for an attic. Once you have a final set of plans that meet code requirements, design preferences, and an estimated cost within your budget, you are ready to begin your project.

BASEMENTS - EVALUATION There are two major factors that might prohibit a basement renovation project from becoming a reality; inadequate headroom and moisture problems. The first step is to measure your basement for headroom. Local building code requirements for basement headroom are basically the same as for an attic; 7½-feet from finished floor to ceiling. Additionally, overhead obstructions such as ducts or pipes must have at least a 7-foot clearance from finished floor to finished ceiling. And overhead obstructions must be spaced at least 4-feet apart. Bathrooms and hallways must be at least 7-feet from finished floor to ceiling. In most cases, it is not feasible to add headroom to a basement. However, new technology exists that may allow additional headroom if the house is going to be jacked up and a new basement floor poured. It is at this time that foundation footings might be extended deeper into the ground to accommodate a higher basement ceiling.



Working around code requirements is sometimes possible by moving overhead pipes and ducts; beams and other obstructions can sometimes be hidden within walls, closets, or inhabitable spaces. Also, some local codes allow lower headroom for special use rooms, such as recreation rooms. If your basement passes code requirements for adequate headroom, you are ready to address the next critical factor – moisture. If any moisture problems exist, they must be corrected before undertaking a basement renovation project. Even small amounts of moisture can wreak havoc; causing framing to rot, drywall to crumble, and the growth of mold or mildew to spawn. Moisture problems can usually be corrected. But the process takes a certain amount of expertise, and time. Once corrections have been made, you will have to wait to make certain that no new moisture problems will develop during seasonal changes. Moisture intrudes into basements in two ways; condensation and seepage: Condensation – high humidity from outside air, poor ventilation, appliances, and damp walls are all conditions that can cause condensation to form in the basement. Seepage – moisture that enters in through cracks in the floor or foundation, or that leeches through masonry is referred to as seepage. This is commonly caused by poor drainage around the foundation, which allows rainwater or a rising underground water table to enter into the basement. Whether or not you have experienced moisture in the basement since living in the house, look for signs of past problems. Check for peeling paint, white residue on masonry, buckled floor tile, rotted baseboards, stained walls, sweating pipes or windows, rusted appliance feet, any visible mold or mildew, as well as musty or moldy odors. Condensation/Seepage Test If signs of a moisture problem exist, locate the source. A test for condensation can be made by taping a square of plastic or aluminum foil to the floor; a second on the inside of an exterior foundation wall. Be sure all edges are securely taped down. After several days, check the squares. Moisture on the top surface of the square will indicate a condensation problem; moisture on the underside of the square will indicate a seepage problem. To reduce condensation, you must reduce humidity in the air. Insulate water pipes to prevent condensation dripping, and run a dehumidifier in the dampest part of the basement. Make sure clothes dryers and other appliances are properly vented to the outside. Central air conditioning will help reduce humidity during warm summer months. Improperly vented crawlspaces can also promote condensation, so check with your local building inspector for venting advice specific to your climate. Locating the Source



Preventing or correcting a seepage problem can turn a simple do-it-yourself project into an extensive excavation and foundation repair ordeal. So before calling in a backhoe, try these and other simple tests for answers and cures first. While it can be difficult to pinpoint the exact source of seepage, a good place to start is the grade of your yard. The first 6-feet around the foundation should slope away from the house structure at a ratio of 1-inch per foot, and at least ¼-inch per foot after that. Test the grade of your yard using a long board, a level, and a tape measure; make any necessary adjustments by building the ground up around the house foundation. Additional Tips Rain gutters and downspouts should be checked and cleaned if necessary. Gutters should slope slightly toward the downspout at a rate of 1/16-inch per foot, and downspouts should have extensions directing drainage at least 8-feet away from the foundation. In addition, there should be one downspout for every 50-feet of eave. Interior treatments to a foundation can help minor seepage problems; consider waterproof masonry sealant or hydraulic cement. More serious problems will require more extensive treatment. For surface drainage, landscape drains can be installed around the perimeter of the foundation. This can be accomplished by digging a trench and inserting perforated drain pipe in gravel near the surface. While this may solve surface drainage problems, a sump pump or foundation footing drains may be necessary to deal with high water table problems. Installing a sump system requires breaking out concrete, installing drain pipes in gravel under the floor, and installing a sump pit and pump to purge excess water. Foundation footing drains are the last resort. This involves excavating around the foundation, installing gravel and a drain system to drain water away from foundation footings, and sealing the exterior of the foundation wall. When evaluating your basement, find out if your home already has one of these systems that may just need cleaning or repair. PROJECT PLANNING Once you have evaluated your basement for adequate headroom requirements, and have checked for and corrected any moisture problems, it is time to proceed. And draw up plans for your project. As with attic renovation projects it is a good idea to obtain original blueprints; either from the builder who completed the home, or the local building authority. Consult with an architect, engineer, or building contractor to ensure your plans meet local building codes. And that supporting walls will not be compromised with renovation plans. Keep



in mind that if you plan to add plumbing features, the basement floor concrete will have to broken out for the drain pipes. Work with the professional to develop a materials list and the estimated cost of your project. You may have to adjust plans to meet code requirements and budget restrictions. Once you have developed final plans that feature design preferences and meet any budget restrictions, it is time for work to begin.

BATHROOMS One of the most frequently used rooms in the house is the bathroom. Of all rooms in a house, the bathroom is the one most likely to be scrutinized by visitors, who will then evaluate your entire home and décor based on what they find in the bathroom. When renovating a home for a fresh feel and enhanced functionality, the bathroom is often the first to receive attention. A well thought out bathroom design can breathe new aesthetic appeal into the entire home. Since homeowners spend a considerable amount of time in the bathroom, it should be efficient and comfortable. PROJECT PLANNING Before putting plans to paper, there several considerations to be made; first and foremost is determining your needs. There are three features normally associated with a bathroom; the toilet, the sink, and the bathtub or shower. When designing areas for these features, accessibility and safety should be primary considerations; décor and aesthetics, secondary. There are several different types of bathrooms. The type you are planning will influence the layout of fixtures and open space allowances being considered. Half baths are small bathrooms designed for convenience; they are usually not more than 20 square feet with only a toilet and sink, and little or no storage space. They are often tucked into space near an entrance or recreation area, with the doorway opening into a hallway rather than one of the main rooms or a public area. When designed for or used as a guest bathroom, they often include a shower, requiring slightly more floor space; and might be called a three-quarter bath. Family baths normally have more floor space than a half or three-quarter bath. Space of 5x7-feet or larger is not uncommon, and family baths usually have ample storage for linens and toiletries. A family bath is often busy; normally used by three or more family members. It is usually located in close proximity to bedroom areas. Larger family bathrooms often provide features to accommodate use by multiple family members simultaneously; features such as double sinks and possibly a separate shower



and bathtub. Smaller family bathrooms commonly have a shower/tub combo, while utilizing available space with recessed shelving, space-saving fixtures, and storage cabinets for maximum efficiency. Special safety considerations should be made for family bathrooms; especially if small children will be using it unsupervised. Features such as anti-scald guards, safety plugs, grab bars, smaller/lower toilets, and built-in step stools for vanities. In addition, since a family bath receives regular heavy use, it is a good idea to incorporate durable low-maintenance fixtures and ceramic tile floors. Master baths are considered to be both a sanctuary and extravagance by homeowners. It is not uncommon to “shoot for the works” when designing a master bath; allowing for larger open access spaces and “lounging” space or special use areas – such as a special dressing area. The master bath is frequently decked out with lush décor, showy gilding on fixtures, and custom features. Master baths might have multiple vanities, a Jacuzzi or whirlpool tub; or luxuries such as a sauna, day spa area, or even a steam room. In addition to standards that help insure safety and accessibility, successfully remodeling the design of a bathroom with so many activities in a small space comes only after much careful planning. The National Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA), with more than 50 chapters throughout the United States and Canada, has published a list of bathroom design standards that assist in planning bathrooms; safe and accessible to all users. Steps to Successful Bathroom Design Below are four steps to a successful bathroom design:

• Sketch a Plan - while your individual bathroom design plan may not conform to

all the recommended design standards, you will still have to comply with local building code requirements. Sketch a floor plan and wall dimensions to scale; experiment with different layouts to come up with one you most prefer. Remember; drastic changes like relocating fixtures may involve moving plumbing lines and drains, adding considerable cost to the project.

• Check Local Building codes - once you have developed your sketch plan, check

with your local building inspector regarding building codes that pertain to your project. Pay special attention to the minimum clearances required around fixtures. If you are short on space, compact fixtures and built-in units may yield the necessary space without compromising on features you want to include. If not, you may need to consider implementing an adjacent closet or extra floor area into the design.

• Create Scale Drawings and a Materials list – this is where every minute detail of

your design goes down on paper. This includes all dimensions for the room as



well as fixtures; including placement of plumbing service, wiring, and HOT WIRE connections. This is a good time to determine what work you can do yourself, and what you will have to contract out. You may even want an architect or building contractor to help draw up plans.

• Have the Plans Approved – present your final plans to the local building inspector

for review and approval. Your plans and materials list will be checked against code guidelines, and recommendations for any required changes will be made. Once final approval is given, you will need to secure any required building permits; sometimes issued individually as certain “phases” of the project are completed. It is not unusual for one inspection to take place after the framing and rough-in plumbing and wiring are in place, and another after the project has been completed.

Bathroom design is greatly affected by the variations available for countertops, vanities, sinks, bathtubs, showers and toilets. With the nearly endless variety of colors, materials, designs, and prices, you should give careful attention to choice selection. COUNERTOPS Budget and space will dictate how elaborate bathroom countertops can be in your design. Countertops are available in numerous materials, and can be customized in just about any way imaginable. From a prefab vanity with counter, sink, and fixtures included, to a custom counter with multiple sinks; with custom design edges and backsplash made from exotic materials such as sandstone, granite or marble. The choices are limited only by your imagination, and pocketbook. Bathroom countertops are available in laminate, (such as Formica or melamine) Corian®, ceramic or stone tile, concrete, quartz, granite, marble, sandstone, or stainless steel. Basic considerations when planning a bathroom countertop include:

• Will you be handling the countertop installation yourself? Even a basic laminate

countertop installation is a task requiring a high level of skill and precision for desired results. Many DIY homeowners opt to hire out this task.

• Ceramic or stone tile countertops are not as demanding as making and installing a

laminate; however, errors in judgment can be more costly.

• Ceramic and tile are a viable DIY project for homeowners, as long as skill level is moderate and underlayment and final waterproofing recommendations are followed.

• Installation can range from modest to high when cost of materials and contractor

hourly rates are factored in. A pre-fabricated, laminate countertop with standard



shapes and edges can run approximately $10 to $11 per square foot for materials alone; expect about $40 to $50 per hour for installation.

• A rule-of-thumb for pre-fab countertops is that the cost of installation is usually

equal to the price of the countertop itself. If walls are square and plumb, they can be installed easily; in a matter of hours. High end materials such as concrete, stone, or stainless steel can run up to $125 per square foot for a standard shape, standard edge countertop; this does not include installation. If the sky is the limit with budget considerations, nothing comes close to the stunning beauty of natural stone integrated into a lavish bathroom design.

• Will you be using a prefab vanity; units that include the base, countertop, sink,

and fixtures? Vanities can range from around $350 for basic designs to $1500 and up for more elaborate double sink models. One good point about selecting a prefab vanity for your bathroom design is that it can be installed relatively easily, and is a good project for the DIY homeowner.

BATHTUBS & SHOWERS Probably the most difficult part of selecting a bathtub or shower for a new bathroom is deciding which one will best suits your preference and budget. Bathtubs and showers come in countless sizes, shapes, styles, and prices. Bathtubs Bathtubs are available in both traditional and untraditional types. Below are some current choices available:

• Basic traditional bathtubs – standard rectangular tubs built into a box design;

widely available for around $600.

• Traditional clawfoot bathtubs – porcelain on iron or steel construction, with a contour shape; supported by decorative “claw foot” legs. Price is around $1600 for a basic design; up to $5600 for more elaborate styles.

• Special shaped drop-in tubs – available in oval, rectangular, corner, and other

shapes. In various sizes, usually constructed from acrylic; ranging in price from $760 to $2300.

• Free-standing ceramic or acrylic tubs – some in some unusual but nevertheless

attractive designs. Some supported by dark decorative hardwood stands. Prices range from $3800 to $11,000 and up.

• New design “walk in” tubs – featuring watertight doors that close and become

part of the tub itself. Ideal for the elderly or physically challenged; price range starts at around $3000.



• Whirlpool and air massage bathtubs – available in a variety of shapes and sizes; prices range from $1500 to $8,100 and up.

• Rustic-looking cedar plank bathtubs – simulating wooden barrel construction;

prices range from $3300 to $4000.

• Stainless steel tubs – various styles, types, and sizes are available, although limited. Prices start at around $15,000.

• Copper bathtubs – an exotic choice with a very contemporary yet rustic look.

Several styles and sizes are available; priced from $11,500 to 42,000 on up.

• Stone tubs; granite, marble, limestone, and onyx – available in different styles, shapes, and sizes. Prices range from $12,000 to $24,000 on up.

Showers Showers can be either the stand alone kind (free standing), or part of a tub/shower combination. Stand alone showers can be obtained as a pre-formed unit, designed to install into a prepared space. Or elaborate custom showers are available made from a variety of materials, including tile and natural stone. Tub/shower combinations can be as diverse as a clawfoot tub with the addition of a shower curtain and shower fixture. To a pre-formed tub/shower unit utilizing either a shower curtain or glass shower door insert. Consider the following:

• Clawfoot tub conversion kits that include a shower head, shower curtain, and

attaching shower curtain frame range from about $125 to over $2100.

• Conversion kits that include a water-proof panel system (plumbing fixtures are not included) are available for $300 to $400; pre-formed units (corner, cubicle, and tub/shower units) range from $120 to $2500 and up.

• Custom-built showers or tub/shower combinations are limited only by

imagination and pocketbook. They range from a modest standard bath tub installed into a ceramic-tiled cubicle, or simple ceramic-tiled shower stall with shower curtain and rod. To lavish “garden pond” settings; created stone masonry. Complete with planters for living plants and tiered shelving for scented candles; the ultimate in “mood setting” features.

TOILETS An essential aspect of any bathroom remodeling project, toilets come in assorted shapes, styles, and colors. Regardless of style – from vintage pull-chain to a mod euro design – a toilet is still basically a toilet; each has similar space requirements. Varieties include:



• Standard / traditional toilets – usually a basic white porcelain bowl with flush tank and chrome or plastic flush handle. Prices start at under $200 to just over $400.

• Eco-friendly, European style dual-flush toilets – that hook up to standard

American-style plumbing; requiring no modifications. Prices can range from $400 to $800.

• Designer toilets – such as a one-piece design in black porcelain. Prices range

from $400 to over $5,000 for stainless steel combo units; novelty-type designer toilets with an elaborate wooden high-backed “throne” can be acquired for around $9800.

• Bidet toilets – that offer hot and cold water “washing up” features range in price

from just under $400 to well over $1200.

• Totally-unique natural stone toilets – including honey, ruby, and green onyx; black granite, limestone, and marble. Some come with ornately carved marble or other stone water casings, with silver or gold-leaf seats and/or flush handles can cost well over $50000. The sky is the limit!

Add on accessories like heated toilet seats or a washlet/bidet seat can range from just under $400 to over $700. SINKS & LAVATORIES Sinks or lavatories, too, come in assorted sizes, shapes, and colors; in materials such as porcelain, fiberglass, acrylic, concrete, stainless steel, copper, and natural stone - including marble, granite, limestone, sandstone, and onyx. Even treated exotic wood basin-type and clear or frosted glass sinks are available. Pre-made vanities come complete, with a sink, countertop, and required fixtures. The various sink options include:

• Prefab vanities – ranging from a simple one-sink design; priced around $350 to

more elaborate multi-sink designs for $1500 on up.

• Pedestal sinks – usually one piece fixtures on a stem or foot that rises from the floor up to a graceful bowl with fixtures. Commonly constructed from porcelain, but other options include glass features, stainless steel or other metals, and natural stone. Prices start from under $400 to $2000 and up.

• Wall-mount and console sinks – made from a variety of materials; including

copper, natural stone, porcelain, and stainless steel. They come in many design



options, with accessories such as cabinetry, towel cubicles, and mirrors. Prices range from under $600 to over $6000.

• Vessel sinks – in a nearly endless variety of styles, types, shapes, and colors from

which to select; including lavish ceramic with colorful flowers and elegant decorations. For the most part, a vessel sink is simply a basin or bowl that rests under a faucet. Some may come attached with a drain; others are completely portable and may be picked up, moved, and emptied. Prices range from under $200 to well over $1000.

• Self-rimming sinks – made to sit into an opening on a countertop using a sealant;

requiring no clamping or other type attachment device. These, too, are available in a variety of shapes and colors; with wide price margins depending upon quality, material, and style.

• Undermount sinks – installed into a substrate countertop, with the final counter

surface installed right up to the rim of the sink. Available in endless shapes, styles, colors, and materials – including stainless steel, copper, nickel, and glass; prices range in the $100s to $1000s.

With the seemingly endless selection of bathroom sinks and lavatories from which to select, the possibilities for your bathroom design are nearly infinite.

KITCHENS One of the most lived in and visible rooms of the house; kitchen transformations are not only one of the most popular home repair/remodeling projects of all. As the heart of the home, kitchen design is of prime importance for most homeowners; for functionality purposes as well as cosmetic appeal. When considering a kitchen remodeling project, the various elements of the kitchen such as fixtures and appliances, countertops, cabinets, lighting, and flooring all enter into the plan to accomplish the desired outcome. Placement of plumbing, electrical, and HVAC service must be considered. As well as basic design standards, such as placement of the work triangle. This represents the three most important features associated with the kitchen; food storage, (the refrigerator) food prep, (oven and cook top) and cleanup (sink and dishwasher). The object is to design a layout that combines simplicity and ease of movement with the least number of steps for the cook. And at the same time allows additional persons to work in the kitchen; without one getting in the other’s way. The way traffic flows into and out of the room, and size and placement of the various elements are all part of the mix when establishing needs, purpose, and scope of the project.



PROJECT PLANNING As with any other home renovation project, one must first determine the specific needs they want met. Decide what you want to accomplish, and why you want a kitchen remodel before making actual plans. Is it purely cosmetic and/or to update appliances? To reconfigure layout design, improve workspace lighting, or increase floor space? Add another feature – such as a food pantry, work island, or breakfast nook? Open up the room to be less isolated from the rest of the house? Or alter doorways to redirect traffic in order to work and move about more efficiently into surrounding rooms. When making project plans, the following are all important things to consider:

• Kitchen use; what its main function will be. Cooking, entertaining / family

meetings / gatherings, doing schoolwork, eating, or other activities.

• What things you like about the kitchen as it is now; what aspects are inconvenient. Specific elements you would like to enhance or rectify.

• Whether or not kitchen size is adequate. What about the layout; does it make

good use of available floor space?

• Current traffic flow, including traffic flow into the kitchen through existing doorways; as well as traffic flow during mealtime preparations. What might work better?

• If funds allow, consider what new elements you would like included in your floor

plan.

• Size, style, and type of existing elements. Do you need larger or smaller appliances, sinks, cabinets, or countertops?

• What about the aesthetic appeal of the kitchen? Do you want to incorporate

interior décor improvements into floors, walls, ceilings, cabinets and countertops?

• Will current plumbing, electrical, and HVAC services be adequate. Or will modifications be necessary for the new design; including the addition of range hoods or ventilation of cooking areas?

• What aspects of the project, if any, can be completed as a DIY project – to cut

down on costs or provide extra funds for additional elements that will enhance kitchen design and convenience?

• What the overall cost of the project be.



By implementing basic design standards into your layout, the kitchen becomes an easier place to work, more efficient, and a more comfortable room to spend time. Understanding and using these basic standards will determine whether your current layout is usable, or if a major change or expansion is required. The Ever Important Work Triangle The work triangle arrangement for storage, preparation, and clean-up areas of the kitchen should be the heart of your kitchen layout design. Each work area represents a point on the triangle; the distance between each point is called a leg. The concept behind a well-laid out kitchen design is to balance the placement of each point in relation to the other. The National Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA) suggest that each leg of the triangle be 4 to 9-feet; the total of all three legs be no more than 26-feet. In addition, the arrangement and placement of the triangle should be such that no other foot traffic passes through it. The NKBA also suggests a 4-foot corridor between stationary elements; such as an island counter or butcher block work station. Any space less than 3-feet will drastically reduce efficiency. Common shapes of work area configuration are U-shape, standard L-shape, large U-shape, and straight line Galley shape. While U-shape and L-shape configurations will all accommodate the work triangle, some kitchen space layouts just will not accommodate a work triangle. A straight line Galley type work area and counter may be the only suitable solution. Space – Another Important Aspect of Kitchen Design Besides lack of available storage space, one of the most common faults people find with their kitchen is the lack of adequate counter space. More than just having adequate counter space is the proximity of counter space to appliances and sinks. Some basic requirements for adequate space include:

• At least 15-inches on latch side of refrigerators. • At least 18-inches on one side and 24-inches on the other side of a single or

double sink. • At least 15-inches on either side of a microwave. • At least 15-inches on one side and 9-inches on the other side of a cook top or

range. • At least 15-inches on either side of an oven.

In addition to these minimum allowances, a kitchen should have at least one additional food preparation counter with a minimum of 3-feet work space. While a 150 square foot kitchen should have a minimum of 11-linear feet of counter space, larger kitchens should have 16-lineal feet or more. While the standard width for most appliances runs 30 to 32-inches, width can vary up to 48-inches or more. Be sure that you know the exact width of all the appliances you plan



to include in your design layout in order to allow adequate additional space required for installation of each. For example, a 36-inch range requires an opening of at least 36 ½-inches. Most people would also like to add extra cabinet space in the kitchen. But, for kitchens with 150-square feet or less of floor space, this might not be possible. When it comes to smaller kitchens, designate at least 13-linear feet for base cabinets, 12-linear feet for wall cabinets, and 10-linear feet for drawers or roll-out shelving. For larger kitchens, plan at least 16-feet for base cabinets, 15 ½-feet for wall cabinets, and 13 ½-feet for drawers and roll-out shelves. CABINET STYLES & CONSIDERATIONS A broad selection of cabinet type, material, and style choices await the homeowner preparing for new kitchen construction or renovation. Because cabinetry can represent a sizeable investment (usually about half of typical remodeling budgets) make choice selection carefully. Cabinet materials include:

• Hardwood • Hardboard • Particleboard • Aluminum, stainless steel or other metal

Hardwood The classic look of hardwood cabinetry is hard to beat. It remains the top choice of many homeowners who don’t mind spending more for the incomparable beauty of natural wood grain. Well-crafted wood cabinets run moderately high to high in price. They are generally made in combination with particle board, medium-density fiberboard, or plywood, with hardwood frames. Popular hardwood choices include oak, hickory, cherry, and maple. Hardboard Less expensive than hardwood, hardboard consists of shredded wood glued together with a natural adhesive called “lignin.” Often used for doors and backs and sides on wooden frames, it provides an excellent painting surface. Tempered hardboard is infused with oil, which aids against moisture and warping. Particle Board Representing a low to moderate priced option, particle board is manufactured from wood particles. Wood chips, sawmill shavings, or sawdust is mixed with a synthetic resin or another binder, and then pressed. Producing a heavy, dense, flat material; budget priced, but with less longevity and durability than plywood or hardwood. Hardboard and particle board can be laminated, wood veneer, or vinyl clad.



Aluminum, Stainless Steel or other Metal Not as popular as other choices in cabinetry, aluminum, steel and other metal cabinets have a baked enamel finish, and come in various styles and grades with low to high price tags. These type cabinets tend to be noisy; steel and other metal cabinets are rust prone. Stainless steel cabinets have become the recent trend for some kitchen designs; providing an ultra-modern, sophisticated flair, along with a big price tag. But because of its sanitary qualities, professional appeal, and durability, stainless steel is gaining increasing popularity for those who can afford the expense. Those with special non-directed glazed finishes hide fingerprints, scratches, and marks. Besides other great benefits, stainless steel is fireproof, and environmentally friendly. And stainless cabinetry is a great compliment to the various non-commercial kitchen appliances in stainless steel; now vogue for residential kitchens. Stock/Prefabricated Cabinets The most basic of all cabinet types, stock/prefabricated cabinets are readymade; they can be purchased unassembled, unfinished, or pre-finished and ready for installation. Most cabinet dealers offer an assortment of styles, available for immediate delivery. Many home renovation building centers have a variety of designer kitchen walk through displays. Staged settings with floor plan layouts and combinations of cabinetry, counters, sinks and other fixtures; to help consumers better visualize finished results when making product selection. When making cabinet selection, look beyond cosmetic appeal and note the following:

• Do drawers open easily; do they roll on metal track rated to hold 75 pounds? • Are drawers equipped with full-extension guides; are guides self-closing? • Are drawers well constructed? Do they have dovetailed or doweled joints, instead

of staples? • Are the sides of the draws at least ½-inch thick? • Is the bottom of draws strong; are they glued into grooves? • If cabinets are wood, do grains match from piece to piece? • Do doors and drawers have quality hardware? • Do doors swing freely; do they latch securely? • Do doors have face frames at least ¾-inches thick? • Are doors fitted with mortised corners, instead of non-interlocking buttjoints? • Are shelves strong, ¾-inch plywood? • How are inside areas and backs finished? • Are the cabinets NKCA (National Kitchen Cabinet Association) certified?

NKCA certification ensures that the cabinet has been manufactured using a certain (minimum) standard. Don’t be concerned if the insides of cabinets are veneer-covered plywood or particle board. Truth be told, both are less likely to warp than solid wood.



Semi-custom Cabinets With more detail and options than stock cabinets, semi-custom cabinets are never-the-less ready made; consumers have a wider choice selection in style, color, and cabinet finish. Options like side panels, glass doors, and crown and bottom molding allow the consumer to add a designer’s touch to kitchen décor. Nice cabinet amenities include pull-out trays; pull out spice racks, wine-glass racks, plate racks, doors with concealed spring hinges, and Lazy Susan and corner systems. Because of the variety of options available, semi-custom cabinets cost more than stock; they usually must be ordered from the manufacturer. Custom Cabinets Because custom cabinets are designed and made according to purchaser’s type, style, material, color, and size specifications, choice options are limitless. A professional cabinet contractor can build one-of-a-kind creations with dimensions customized to fit specific areas down the last 1/8-inch. Obviously, cabinetry with this type quality workmanship and customized features will carry a heavy price tag; usually at least twice that of stock of similar material quality. New cabinets can greatly compliment new kitchen décor, and provide more convenience and storage space. Quality cabinetry will also increase the real estate market value of your home. COUNTERTOPS Counters are one of the most important elements of any kitchen, providing a universal workspace to perform various tasks in the kitchen. As mentioned earlier, counters should provide the minimum suggested workspace adjacent to other kitchen elements, such as sinks and appliances. While some kitchens have varied heights of counters, the universal height is 36-inches from floor to counter top. Once minimum suggested counter space has been met, other design considerations might include additional counter space, type of counters, counter height, cost, and placement. Counter tops come in a wide variety of materials; the most common being particle board or plywood, covered with high-pressure laminate plastic. This material comes in an infinite assortment of styles, colors; by numerous manufacturers. It is the most economical choice. Especially when purchased pre-manufactured in the needed dimensions. Units commonly come with the counter and backsplash as one pre-formed piece. The down side is that laminates can be less durable and scratch or stain more easily than other counter material choices.



The next step up in material choice is ceramic tile; also available in nearly endless style and color selections, in sizes of less than 1-inch to 12-inches square. Some installations of ceramic tile are done with construction adhesive on a plywood core, and then grouted when adhesive is cured. The recommended method is using a combination of plywood covered with cementboard or concrete-impregnated Masonite, for an overall thickness of at least 1¼-inches before applying the ceramic tile. Tile is adhered to the cementboard either with construction adhesive, or preferably with thin-set mortar; yielding a counter resistant to water. Another step up in quality, appearance, and cost is natural stone; such as granite, marble, flagstone, onyx, or sandstone. Solid stone counters are considered to be the utmost in extravagance and beauty. They are one of the most durable surfaces available for countertops, which may very well outlast the kitchen. While solid stone is one the most expensive options in counter tops, there are some drawbacks. If the counter becomes scratched, cracked, or otherwise damaged, the whole counter top may have to be replaced. One way to reduce the cost of a natural stone counter is to get it in squares; usually 12-inches, and then install it like ceramic tile. Not only is it a more economical way to achieve the beauty of stone, but single tiles can be replaced if damaged. Another variation of natural stone is a concrete counter top; using cement and small natural stones. The cement is poured in a form with the stones arranged so that they will be exposed in the final top surface of the counter. Probably the most expensive choice in counter tops is stainless steel. Stainless steel is becoming increasingly popular because of its sleek appearance; also due to the fact that it is the most hygienic choice because of ease of sterilization. Choices in style may be somewhat limited, with fewer manufacturers. While some manufacturers offer some basic standard sizes, most stainless steel counters are custom-built to order. Counter Top Edge Options Edge treatments add the finishing touch to any counter top. There are usually one of four styles from which to select:

• Square edge – the most common; used with laminates, wood, and ceramic tile. • Bullnose edge – a practical, safe edge treatment with a rounded rim; often found

on pre-formed laminate counters. • Ogee edge – accomplished with only certain materials. Laminate counters with a

hardwood edge are covered with the laminate, and then a router is used on the square edge to make either an angled or rounded edge. Exposing the beauty of the hardwood beneath.

• Sandwich edge – features layers of wood, metal, or colors sandwiched between layers of laminate or stone for decorative appeal.



Chapter 9 – REMODELING PROJECTS Note: definitions for the underlined words in this chapter are found in the Glossary of Terms, located at the front of the book.

CABINETS – HOW TO REPLACE KITCHEN CABINETS If you are a homeowner with intermediate carpentry skills and don’t mind the work, mess, and time involvement, you might consider taking your old kitchen cabinets down and replacing them with new as a do-it-yourself project. Unless, of course, you will be replacing old cabinets with custom-made; in which case the cabinet builder should do the installation work his or her self to ensure workmanship and dimension accuracy of each unit. To remove old cabinets yourself you will need the following:

• Measuring tape • Level • Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers • Shims • Hammer • Stud sensor • Drill with drill bits and screwdriver attachment • Hole saw • Decorative molding or valance • Trim • Finish nails • Chalk line • Utility knife • Safety glasses

WALL CABINETS The most difficult part of hanging wall cabinets is lifting them to the appropriate height and holding them in place. This makes installing wall cabinets a 2-person job.

1. Remove old cabinets; repair any holes in the walls.



2. Locate wall studs using the stud finder. Snap vertical chalk lines to indicate either stud centers or edges. Note: studs are spaced at regular intervals. Most common is 16-inches, although 24-inch intervals are sometimes used in newer houses. Once you locate one stud and determine the distance to the next, measure to locate others.

3. Measure 54-inches up from the floor at both ends of the wall; this is the standard

height of wall cabinets. Snap a horizontal chalk line.

4. Start in the corner, at the highest floor point; nail up a 1X3 temporary straight so it is level. It may not match the vertical chalk line if the floor is not level.

5. Place either a corner or end cabinet on the temporary straight; make sure it is

level. Drill 3/16-inch pilot holes through the top hanging strip inside the cabinet into wall studs. Drive 2 ½-inch roundhead screws into the pilot holes.

6. Position the next cabinet on the temporary straight, snug against the first; make

sure it is level. Drill 3/16-inch pilot holes through the top hanging strip inside the cabinet into wall studs. Drive 2 ½-inch roundhead screws into the pilot holes.

7. Install remaining wall cabinets following step 6.

8. Clamp together face frames of adjacent cabinets; counterbore 2 ½-inch drywall

screws through the inside edge of one face frame to the other.

9. Fit a filler strip into the remaining gap at the wall juncture. Attach the filler strip to the face frame of the last cabinet with counter sunk screws.

10. Remove the temporary straight; plumb cabinet fronts by shimming between the

wall and bottom hanging strip of the cabinet at stud points.

11. Drill 3/16-inch pilot holes; attach bottom hanging strip to shim and stud using 2 ½-inch roundhead screws. Trim shims using a utility knife.

12. Apply trim using finish nails to cover gaps between the backs of cabinets and

wall. Stain or paint trim to match cabinets.

13. Fill the gap between cupboards over the sink space using decorative molding or a valance; stained or painted to match the cabinet. Secure in place using counterbore screws through adjacent face frames into the valance.

BASE CABINETS

1. Remove old cabinets; repair any holes in the walls.

2. If you plan to install new vinyl flooring, do so before new cabinet installation. If you plan to install marble, tile, or a wood floor, use a piece of plywood the same



thickness the new floor will be; lay the plywood under the cabinets to serve as a height reference.

3. Mark the locations of wall studs using the stud finder. Note: studs are spaced at

regular intervals. Most common is 16-inches, although 24-inch intervals are sometimes used in newer houses. Once you locate one stud and determine the distance to the next, measure to locate others.

4. Not all floors are perfectly level. You will want to use the high point as the

reference for installing the cabinets. Mark a level line at the height of the base cabinets at the highest point of the room floor.

5. Set a cabinet in place; level it to the line by tapping wood shims under low points.

Level cabinet front to back, and from side to side.

6. Drill pilot holes into a stud; drive screws through cabinet framing into the stud using the drill screwdriver attachment.

7. Once cabinet is level and securely in place, remove any shims using a hammer

and chisel.

8. Clamp together face frames of adjacent cabinets. Counterbore screws into the inside edge of one face frame, ¼-inch into the other.

9. Follow steps 5 to 8 for installation of remaining bottom cabinets.

10. Before installing the sink cabinet, measure from the reference line to the top and

bottom of the drain and water supply pipes; measure from the side of the adjacent cabinet to both sides of the drain. Transfer measurements to the back of the sink cabinet; drill appropriate holes using a hole saw.

11. Complete the job by installing molding or filler strips to cover any gapes between

the counter and the walls or floor. Note: if a thin shim is required between cabinets to compensate for minor irregularities, make sure face edges butt tightly. Handy Tips for Project Success:

• Schedule enough time to complete the project. Once old base and wall cabinets have been removed, expect to spend 4 to 5 hours for a straight run of cabinets; more if corner cabinets are complicated.

• Before installing cabinets, separate base cabinets from wall cabinets. Install wall

cabinets first so you don’t have to lean over base cabinets.

• Remove cupboard doors before installing wall cabinets; they will be lighter and easier to handle.



• Use the type screws specified by the manufacturer; drive screws through frames

as opposed to the back or side panels, which are thinner and less sturdy. Note: another, more cost-effective alternative to replacing old kitchen cabinets with new is this. If old cabinet construction is still sound and strong, give them a “face lift.” Clean, sand, and refinish just the doors, or all cabinetry – if needed; Replace handles, knobs, and any other hardware desired, with new. This can save a considerable amount of money in renovation costs, while yielding great results.

CEILINGS - FRAMING Structure of ceilings and floors are basically the same. First-floor joists serve as basement ceiling joists; first floor ceilings joists serve as floor joists for the second floor, etc. Joists run perpendicular to their supports and carry the structural load; the ends of joists may rest either on support beams, foundations, or load-bearing walls. Whereas joists used for flooring are typically 2X10 or larger, joists to support only a ceiling can be as small as 2X4. The joists can either be leveled before put in place, or furring strips can later be added to the bottom edges to make them level. Optional blocking can be installed between joists for additional support. At this point, the ceiling is considered framed out. Plaster lath or drywall is attached to the joists; the ceiling can be finished off using either plaster or joint tape and joint compound. Of course, if ducts or pipes need to be hid or ceiling height adjusted to match another ceiling height, you will want to frame out the entire ceiling. Do this by building soffit framing; this will resemble a horizontally hanging wall, instead of vertical. Top floor ceilings that slope are usually attached directly to the roof framing; with insulation in between. Open beam ceilings usually consist of the finished underside of wood plank roof decking. And open cell ceilings use multi frames that lock together and cover the whole ceiling, forming a number of open cells. While the existing ceiling will be lowered by the height of the cell framework, an open cell ceiling provides a creative, modern look that can yield interesting effects to help set room design apart from the norm. PANELING Instead of more traditional material such as acoustical or ceiling tiles, some homeowners prefer a tongue-and-groove paneled ceiling. This provides a warm, attractive finish especially suitable for vaulted ceilings.



Pine tongue-and-groove is a common choice. It is cheaper and easier to obtain than other wood choices. Plywood planks are also popular. Some are available in tongue-and-groove styles that have a pine veneer top milled to look like old-fashioned bead board, suitable for both flat and sloped ceilings. Select cedar or redwood paneling for rooms prone to moisture, such as bathrooms and saunas; or lightweight, easy to install mineral fiber planks that resemble wood. Panels are typically 3/8 to 3/4-inches thick and are sometimes attached directly to ceiling joists and rafters. Note: if you use paneling that is thinner, check your local building code first; some codes require installing wallboard as a fire stop behind ceiling paneling less than 1/4-inch thick. When purchasing tongue-and-groove paneling, get about 15-percent more than the actual square footage of your ceiling. Why? Because the tongue portion of each panel slips into the grooves of adjacent boards; square footage is based on the “reveal;” This is the exposed face of panels after they have been installed. To calculate the reveal – fit two pieces of paneling together and measure the exposed surface. To determine how much paneling you will need, divide the distance from one to the other and then divide by the reveal surface of the two boards. For a sloped ceiling, divide the overall distance between the top of one wall and the peak of the ceiling by the reveal surface area, then multiply by two. If you decide to panel a ceiling in your home, do the following:

• Using the reveal calculation of two pieces of paneling, make a control line to

indicate the top of the first row of paneling. At both ends of the ceiling, measure down from the peak an equal distance. Make a mark to represent the tongue edges of the starter boards, and then snap a chalk line through the marks.

• If the paneling isn’t long enough to span the entire ceiling, plan the locations of

the joints and stagger them in a 3-step pattern to make joints less obvious. For best results, select boards of similar color and grain for each row; make sure that each joint falls in the middle of the rafter.

• If boards span the ceiling, square cut both ends. If boards will be pieced, a 30-

degree bevel cut on adjoining ends will form a scarf joint and will be less noticeable than buttjoints.

• Use a compound miter saw to ensure that paneling cuts are clean.

• Attach paneling using 2-inch barbed flooring nails with spiraling shanks; although

heads are larger than finishing nails, they hold better. Compensate for the larger heads by blind-nailing. Be sure and toenail each one.



• Attach face-nails at joints and locations where more support is required (i.e. first and last boards).

• If the ceiling peak is not parallel to the starting wall, compensate for the

difference by ripping the starter piece at an angle. The leading edge of the starting piece, as well as every piece that follows, must be parallel to the peak in order for the project to be a success.

Getting started Because layout of paneling is critical, use the reveal measurement to calculate the width of the final board. If it measures less than 2-inches wide, trim the first (starter) board by cutting the long edge that abuts the wall. Leave about 1/8-inch gap between the end of the wall and the board. Position the starter board so the grooved (cut) edge butts against the side wall and the tongue is aligned with the control line. Attach the board nailing through its face about 1-inch from the grooved edge. And then blind nail the board to the rafters using a 45-degree backward angle; use a nail set to drive nail heads beneath the surface of the paneling. Making sure scarf joints fit together snuggly, cut and install remaining boards in the starter row. When connecting scarf joints, drill pilot holes if necessary to prevent splitting. Drive two nails through the face of the top board at an angle to make sure nails secure the board behind it. Use a hammer and scrap piece of paneling to seat the grooved edge over the tongue of the starter board; be sure subsequent rows fit snuggly together. Fasten by blind-nailing. As you continue to work, make sure rows remain parallel to the peak. Correct alignment using slight adjustments to the tongue-and-groove joints. Snap additional control lines if necessary. When you come to the final row it may be necessary to rip the boards for proper fit; bevel the top edges so they will fit flush against the ridge boards. Complete the other side of the ceiling; cut and install the last row of paneling; form a closed joint under the ridge board. If desired, install trim or crown molding along the walls; outside and inside of corners. Bevel or miter-cut back edges to better accommodate ceiling slope. TEXTURING One of the final steps in any remodeling or renovation project is finishing the walls and ceiling. Gypsum wallboard, also called drywall, plasterboard, and sheetrock, is the most popular choice for walls and ceilings; it can be painted, textured, or wallpapered.



While walls commonly are textured and painted, or just primed and painted, ceilings almost always are textured. The reason ceilings are not left smooth is because ending up with a perfectly smooth finish is very difficult. In addition, ceilings reflect light in such a manner that every little variation of a smooth surface would stand out like a sore thumb. Completely skimming a drywall surface is something that professional drywall contractors do to make sure a whole wall or ceiling is perfectly smooth. Even when skimmed by a professional, some variations can still stand out on a ceiling. Consequently, even most professionals add texturing to a ceiling. This not only covers any flaws or surface unevenness, but adds character to the surface. Types of Texturing Ceiling texturing is available in several application methods. Popcorn texturing is a mixture of granular particles available in several forms. An aerosol form of granules suspended in a semi-liquid base can be applied by hand-spraying onto the ceiling surface. Popcorn texturing can also be achieved by adding dry granules to latex paint; the resulting mixture is applied by rolling it onto the surface with a paint roller. Note: this type of ceiling texture is not as durable as other forms. The granules come off when touched, or when applying subsequent coats of paint; resulting in a messy floor. The best type of texturing for a ceiling is made from drywall compound, slightly thinned with water. When rolling texturing compound on a ceiling, thin it to about the consistency of thick paint. Apply it using a long-nap paint roller on an extension handle. Once applied, the thinned mixture can be textured by making circular swirl patterns using a trowel; or by gently tamping it with a “stomp brush.” With either of these methods, it is important to work quickly before the compound begins to set. When using a stomp brush, be sure to rotate it after each stroke to avoid a repeating pattern from occurring. Another way to add this type texture is to use a spray applicator to spray the thinned down drywall compound through a spray nozzle onto the surface being textured. The compound is placed in hopper; the spray nozzle can be adjusted for a variety of fine to course textures. One popular variation of this texturing method is to gently smooth over the finish once it has partially set with a smooth trowel or wide drywall knife. The resulting texture is called a “knock down” finish. While any of these methods can be achieved without a high level of skill and expertise, it usually is necessary to practice on pieces of scrap drywall to insure a uniform finish when doing the actual work. Once the texture has dried, paint with one or more coats of your choice of color and finish interior paint. Note: flat finish paint is not washable. But egg shell, semi-gloss, and gloss finish paints are. Multiple coats will further enhance durability and wash-ability of your new textured ceiling.



Working with thinned drywall compound can be messy business. Especially when sprayed onto a surface. Items in the room which cannot be easily cleaned, or that can become permanently stained by the compound should be removed, or completely covered, or masked off. To clean the compound off floor surfaces, let it set and then scrape it off with a floor scraper; a hoe-like tool.

COUNTERTOPS – INSTALLING CERAMIC TILE Installing a ceramic tile countertop is one type do-it-yourself project especially rewarding when careful planning yields the expected results and project success. Ceramic that has been properly installed provides a durable, attractive, easy to clean surface that will compliment your kitchen décor. Ceramic tile is one of the more popular choices for countertops and backsplashes for a variety of reasons. It is available in a wide variety of sizes, colors, and styles; it can also be easily repaired. Another reason tile counters are so popular is because many types of tile are very reasonably priced. Before you purchase tile or begin your project however, take the following into consideration:

• Because of the varying sizes of tiles from which to select, tiles combined with the

width of grout lines between each rarely works out to an exact match for the size countertop planned. Therefore, it is often necessary to cut tiles for proper fit.

• The best tile for most countertops is glazed ceramic floor tile; for two reasons.

Glazed tile is stain resistant, and floor tile is usually more durable than tile made for counters. Porcelain tile is also hard and durable, and another good choice as countertop tile.

• Select tile with at least a Class 3 hardness rating.

• Use grout containing latex to minimize staining in between tiles.

• An equal row of partial tiles on both sides of the counter will look better than a

full row on one side, with a narrow sliver on the other.

• When planning your tile counter layout, consider the size and shape of edge tiles. Bullnose tiles are flat with rounded edges; V-cap tiles are formed to completely cover edges.

• Also take into consideration the vertical measurement of the finished edge; the

edge tile combined with the thickness of core materials. Measure to ensure edge



tiles won’t interfere with base cabinet doors or draws. If so, you’ll need to shim up the countertop using pieces of plywood that have been nailed along the cabinet rims.

• Adding new tile slightly raises sinks and other fixtures, so plumbing will have to

be adjusted. Even if you install the tile countertop yourself, you may want to hire an experienced plumber for this purpose.

• Recessed sinks should be set in place prior to tiling; surface-mounted sinks should

be installed after tiling is complete.

• If you have to remove an old tile counter in order to install a new one, you will have to use a masonry chisel to break the old tile up; be sure and wear protective goggles. If the counter has a masonry bed, cut it apart using a circular saw with a masonry-cutting blade; be careful not to damage the base cabinets.

• New tile can often be installed directly over old laminate surfaces as long as the

laminates are in good condition and still firmly attached to their substrate.

• When installing a whole new counter, ceramic tile can be installed on a 3/4-inch plywood core topped by a 1/2-inch thick cementboard; a material made specifically as backing for tile. Cementboard is also known as “glass mesh mortar unit” (GMMU). As an added moisture barrier, a layer of plastic can be inserted in-between the plywood and cementboard.

Note: if you decide to install the tile directly to a plywood core, select 3/4-inch exterior grade plywood; free from holes or crevices of any kind. This will help protect against moisture. If you still feel comfortable installing a ceramic tile countertop yourself, let’s get started! In addition to the tile and possibly a plywood core toped by cementboard, you will need the following materials:

• Tile, including edge tiles • 3/4-inch exterior grade plywood; for frame supports, the core, and base strips for

along the edge, unless using pine • 1X2 pine (for base strips along the edge, unless using plywood) • 1/2-inch cementboard – to fit over the core • 4-ml polyethylene sheeting (to place in-between the plywood core and

cementboard as an extra moisture barrier – if desired) • Tile adhesive • Carpenter’s glue • Grout • Latex additive (for the grout) • plastic grout spacers • Silicone caulk



• Liquid silicone sealer, one that is food safe • Latex underlayment

You will also need the following tools:

• Measuring tape • Putty knife • Framing square • Safety goggles • Tile cutter • Tile nippers • Hammer • Notched trowel • Grout float • Grout sponge • Caulking gun • Electric drill with appropriate screw bits • Circular saw with a carbide-tipped blade • Screwdriver • Galvanized 2-inch wallboard screws • Galvanized 4d common nails

Make a Plywood Frame and Core When constructing a whole new tile countertop, begin by making a 3-inch frame support made from plywood to go around the top perimeter of the base cabinet. Fasten the supports every 24-inches using galvanized 4d common nails. Install frame supports across the cabinets about 3-inches from the sides of the sink and cook top locations; secure in place. Make the core the same size as the base cabinet using ¾-inch exterior grade plywood. Top with ½-inch cementboard cut to fit; lay over the core. Be sure all edges are flush; fasten the core and cementboard to the frame supports using galvanized 2-inch wallboard screws. Use the underlayment to fill the cracks and screw holes. Allow to dry before sanding flush with the surrounding surfaces Measure the locations and sizes of sinks and cook tops; cut according to the rough-in dimensions provided by the manufacturer. Wear goggles when cutting the cementboard; use a circular saw with a carbide-tipped blade. The safest cutting procedure is to make several passes along each line, setting the blade a little deeper with each pass. While cutting, it is important to provide support under the waste material to prevent tear-out. Make a base for edge tiles and overhang. Install 1X2 build-up strips of pine along all countertop core exposed edges. Attach the strips using carpenter’s glue and galvanized 6d finish nails; the strips should be flush with the top of the core. If you prefer, use 1X2



strips of exterior grade plywood in place of pine. Note: instead of using pine strips or plywood, you can cap the edges of the plywood and cementboard topper with strips of cementboard; finish with fiberglass mesh tape and thin-set mortar. Prepare to Install Tiles Before installing the tile, makes sure the surface area is dry and free of debris. Begin by measuring and marking the middle of the countertop core. Your first full tile will be placed along this center line; be sure it is flush with the edge of the build-up strip. Use a framing square to establish perpendicular lines that extend to all edges of the core. If you are using V-cap edge tiles, begin with an edge tile; allow for grout spacing, and then place a full tile against the layout lines. Dry fit the first row of tiles along the perpendicular lines; if tiles don’t have spacing lugs on their edges, use plastic grout spacers to set gout-joint gaps between the tiles. Make adjustments as necessary. Cutting Tile To make work easier, precut all partial tiles before you begin actual installation. For straight cuts, place the tile face-up in the tile cutter. After making adjustments for the proper width, score the tile with the cutter wheel. Apply pressure to snap the tile, according to tile cutter directions. For curved cuts, use a tile scoring tool to etch the outline of the curve on the tile. Cover the unwanted portion of the tile with crisscrossed lines; use tile nippers to break off small pieces of the section of tile to be discarded until the cutout is complete As you work, remember:

• Take into account the grout lines when measuring for partial tiles. • Where tiles meet the wall surface, allow 1/8-inch of space; or the thickness of one

tile. Installing Tiles When installing a tile countertop, begin with edge tiles. Apply a layer of thin-set mortar to the back of the tile and the edges of the countertop using a notched trowel. Use a slight twisting motion to press tiles into place. Add (temporary) plastic gout spaces between tiles, if needed. The rounded tops of bullnose tiles should be flush with the surface of field tiles, so keep a loose tile along the build-up strips for easy reference. Once the edge tiles are in place, begin laying top tiles working one small area at a time. Spread adhesive along the front of the counter top core; install a row of full tiles. When finished, begin a perpendicular row of tiles along the layout lines. Insert gout spacers as needed. After each small section is complete, lay a carpeted 2X4 block of wood over the tile and tap gently with a hammer, and then run your hand over the tiles to insure they are even. Remove any spacers with a toothpick; scrape any excess adhesive from the gout joints.



Use denatured alcohol to remove any adhesive from the face of tiles before it has time to dry. Continue installing tiles, alternating perpendicular rows as you work. Once you are finished installing field tiles, you are ready to start installing the backsplash tiles. You will want to leave between 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch between the bottom of the backsplash tiles and the field tiles; this will be filled-in with silicone caulk once tile installation is complete. Applying Grout and Caulk Once tiles are all in place, mix grout according to package directions; use a latex additive if desired. After making sure all plastic grout spacers have been removed, use a rubber float to apply the grout in sweeping motions, forcing the gout into the joints between the tiles. After all spaces between tiles are completely filled-in, use a damp sponge with rounded edges to wipe away excess grout. Do not use a sponge with squared corners, which could wipe away grout from the joints. Allow grout to cure for one hour before wiping away the powdery residue left on tiles; follow the manufacturer’s directions, and allow the grout to dry completely. Once grout is dry, caulk along the backsplash using a fine, unbroken bead of silicone caulk; smooth with the tip of a wet finger and wipe away excess. Once the caulk has had time to cure, apply a penetrating liquid silicone sealer to the grout; one that is food safe. Use a foam brush for application. Allow the sealer dry, and apply a second coat. Once the second coat is completely dry, buff the tiles using a clean, soft cloth. For proper maintenance purposes, reapply a sealer once a year.

FLOORS Sooner or later, everyone doing a renovation or new construction project will have to deal with some aspect of the floor. Floors are usually one of two basic types; floor joists supporting a substrate deck (plywood or particle board flooring nailed or screwed to the joists), or poured concrete. Both floor types are covered with a top floor covering of the homeowner’s preference; such as carpeting, hardwood, tile masonry, vinyl, or laminate simulated hardwood. Whether installing a floor covering for the first time or replacing an existing with new, there are considerations to be made. REMOVING OLD Probably the least difficult floor covering to remove is carpeting. Carpeting is usually attached to the floor in one of two ways:



1. Tack strips – nailed, screwed, stapled, or glued to the subfloor around the perimeter of a room. The carpet pad is glued or tacked to the floor up to the edge of the tack strip. Carpet is then stretched into place and held by the sharp tack points in the strip. The strips are installed so that the angle of the points slant away from the center of the room, thus grabbing and holding the backing of the carpet in the desired position. Carpet is sometimes installed on concrete using the tack strip method. This is difficult, because tack strips must be attached to the concrete using concrete nails or screws. But this is necessary when pad is desired over the concrete. 2. Glued to subfloor – Carpet is trimmed to fit and glued right to the subfloor without padding underneath. This is the preferred method for installing carpet on a concrete floor; however sometimes carpet is also glued directly to a wood subfloor; especially when pad is not being installed with the carpet. Carpet Removal Removing carpet that has been installed with tack strips is a simple process. Use a screwdriver to loosen a corner; grab onto the corner with pliers and carefully start pulling the edge of the carpet up along the wall. Carpet will usually release from the tack strip easily. When metal edge trim strips have been installed, the metal lips bent down over the carpet to hold it in place will need to be pried upward. Once the metal lip has been pried up and away from the carpet, the carpet will easily come away from the strip. Occasionally the sharp teeth in the strip will catch on the carpet yarn. Be careful to work it loose without jerking and damaging the edge of the carpet if you want to salvage it. If carpeting is installed in several rooms and adjoining halls with seams, and you only want to remove one room or area, you will need to take a seam apart. Seams are usually found at the threshold of entry doors, and must be cut exactly on the seam with a utility or carpet knife. If you are not re-installing carpet, cut it leaving a small margin on the room side of the seam; this can be finished and trimmed later. Once carpet has been removed, the pad can usually be cut into strips using a utility knife and pulled up. Tack strip can be popped off the floor using a floor scraper (a driveway ice scraper works fine). If the pad has been stapled, the scraper can easily remove them. If the pad was glued, more work will be required to scrape it all off. Glued carpet requires more time and labor to remove. If you can get an edge started, cut the carpet in place; in 2 or 3-foot wide strips using a utility knife. Grab the loose edge, and pull the strips of carpet off the floor. If the carpet is glued to concrete, often the case for carpeted basement floors, and if getting the carpet wet won’t cause damage to the surrounding area, removal can sometimes be simplified. Certain types of glue will release when wet; allow 30 minutes to an hour for the glue to release. Then cut carpet into manageable strips while in place; and then roll the strips off the floor.



Removing Other Types of Flooring Other types of flooring can prove more of a daunting task when it comes to removal: Vinyl sheet goods are normally glued to the substrate, and will require scraping to get it loose. On some types, the soft backing may separate and remain on the floor, requiring extra scraping to pry it loose. Vinyl tiles are also glued down, and require scraping. In addition to a driveway type scraper, there are various types of razor scrapers readily available; specifically for this purpose. Asphalt tiles are glued down with mastic. Sometimes two people working together with a scraper and a propane hand torch can help the task go more quickly. One person heats the tile with the torch; the other follows behind with the scraper. Ceramic tile must be broken and scraped; tiles that have been installed with cementboard and thin set mortar may require more effort than those glued to the substrate. Asbestos tiles may have been used on floors in older homes. Because of the health hazard posed, extreme environmental measures must be taken when removing this type of flooring; the services of an environmental contractor should be used without exception. PREPARING FOR NEW Whether preparing a new floor for floor covering installation, or changing an existing floor covering to another type in a remodel; in most cases there will be some type of preparation process required. Floor substrate surfaces should be made as level and smooth as possible. Carpeting Installing carpet and pad requires the least amount of preparation, because this type floor covering does not show substrate or leveling flaws like other types of floor covering. The substrate should be swept clean of any loose debris; any protruding staples or nails should be driven into the substrate or removed. Baseboard moldings should be spaced with approximately a 3/8 inch gap between it and the substrate, to allow tucking the carpet edge. This promotes a solid grip on the tack strip, which should also be spaced 3/8 of an inch away from the molding. Many times baseboards are already installed with the proper spacing to accomplish this, and can be left in place. Sheet goods When installing sheet goods, hardwood or simulated hardwood laminate, or ceramic or stone tile, remove baseboards from the perimeter of room.



For substrate surfaces which are slightly uneven, leveling compound should be used to achieve a more level surface. Apply and smooth the compound using a trowel. You may want to have a professional complete this task. Sheet goods, such as vinyl require the highest level of effort and precision. This is because even the smallest imperfection in the substrate will be highly visible in the finished surface. This type floor covering also needs special attention when it comes to leveling the substrate. In extreme cases, the substrate may need several coats of leveling compound before being covered with 4X4-foot sheets of ¼-inch thick underlayment; which will further help provide a smooth, level substrate surface. Glue-down Vinyl and Asphalt Tiles Underlayment may also be necessary to prepare a level surface for installing glue-down vinyl or asphalt tiles. Special attention should be given to each run of underlayment, so that the joints are staggered from one run to the next. Nails or screws should be spaced no more than 8-inches apart over the entire surface of each sheet. Ceramic and Stone Tiles To prepare a floor for ceramic or stone tiles, many professional installers prefer using ¼-inch or 3/8-inch cementboard or “hardy board” (concrete-impregnated Masonite) that has been nailed or screwed to the subfloor. Note: particle board subfloor decking will not stand up to moisture; it will need to be removed and replaced with plywood. It is recommended that the total thickness of subfloor decking and cementboard be at least 1 ¼ to 1½-inches for stability. Using ¾-inch plywood and ½-inch cementboard will meet this requirement. Use high-grade construction adhesive to glue the cementboard to the plywood. Arrange the layers so that the cementboard overlaps plywood seams. Make sure floor joists are marked to that plywood and cementboard can be securely fastened using screws or nails. Finish seams in the cementboard with fiberglass mesh tape and thin set mortar. Hardwood and Simulated Hardwood Laminate Hardwood flooring or simulated hardwood laminate flooring both require a level, smooth substrate, although not as exacting as what is required for vinyl sheet goods. Plywood ¾-inch thick or particle board substrate is adequate. If there are squeaks or creaks in the floor, add additional screws into the joists in the area of the creak to remove it. Hardwood requires 15-pound asphalt felt paper or red rosin paper between the flooring and subfloor; laminates require a thin foam cushion. Both come in rolled sheets which are rolled out onto the substrate. Whatever type of flooring is being installed, remember; preparing the substrate surface is important. It is better to take the extra time and effort in preparation to avoid any possible



problems. Measure accurately, and don’t hesitate to consult a professional about any aspects you are unsure of. Taking the extra time for preparation will help insure an attractive, functional floor covering for years to come. INSTALLATION – HARDWOOD AND LAMINATE FLOORING Many homeowners opt to install hardwood flooring for both the aesthetic beauty and durability offered by this type floor. In addition to the more traditional woods such as oak or maple, exotic tropical woods such as teak and mahogany are becoming increasingly popular. Hardwood flooring has become widely available in pre-finished choices; sanded and finished with multiple layers of baked-on finish. Select only flooring with a high Taber test rating; a rating for finish durability. Using a pre-finished product saves time and effort, and provides a higher quality finish. Despite their popularity, due to the staggering cost of exotic woods, many homeowners choose to install simulated hardwood laminate flooring, instead. When installing a laminate, it is best to use only top of the line products that offer the ultimate durability, performance, and appearance. Middle of the line or economy selections perform poorly and may leave the homeowner dissatisfied with their choice after a short period of time. Both types of flooring come in “tongue and groove” boards: each board has a tongue on one side, a groove on the other. The tongue side of board fits snugly into the groove side of the board preceding it; rendering an interlocked system of floorboards for the final surface. In addition to tongue and groove sides, the ends of the boards are tongue and grooved so that joints in the middle of a run are interlocked. Be careful in planning your runs to avoid unnecessary waste. Preparing for Installation Begin with careful measurements and planning; keep in mind that you will need an extra 10 to 15-percent of the total square footage to allow for defective or unusable boards; plus waste from cutting. Hardwood should be installed perpendicular to the floor joists; beginning with the longest perpendicular wall of the room. Mark the floor joists at the bottom of the wall along the room perimeters. Roll out paper or foam cushion and staple to subfloor. A baseline must be established for the first run of boards. Take multiple width measurements of the room to establish an accurate center line; use a chalk line to mark the line in the center of the room, perpendicular to the floor joists. Using the center line, establish a base line perfectly parallel to the center line; spaced about ½-inch from the wall to allow for expansion of the floor.



This will be the line for starting the first run of boards; it will be covered by the baseboard once the floor is completed. Snap a line between the perimeter joist marks to show the joists on the floor. The Installation Process Hardwood is nailed to the subfloor; simulated hardwood laminate is usually left floating; only the boards are glued together. Select the longest boards for the first run; rip the tongue edge so it is flush. Line the edges up on the wall baseline and pre-drill screw or nail holes close to the wall edge, so they will be covered by baseboards on the joist line. Nail or screw through the subfloor and into the joists to secure the boards. Blind nail the groove edge by pre-drilling pilot holes at a 45-degree angle in the grooves, so that 1½-inch finishing nails can be nailed into the joists, at 10-inch intervals the length of the run. Recess nails with a nail set. Complete two more runs blind-nailing in this fashion. Use a scrap piece of flooring against the board edge to tap boards firmly into place with a hammer before nailing into place. Space joints in each run so that they are at least 8-inches from the wall ends, but no closer than 6-inches from joints in the preceding or following run. When installing wider boards, some manufacturers recommend leaving a gap the thickness of a putty knife between runs to allow for expansion. If you are laying floor in a smaller floor area, continue on in this fashion. For larger areas, use a flooring nailer with 2-inch staples or nails. Fit the nailer snugly into the groove; strike the plunger with a heavy rubber mallet. Drive nails into the center of the joists, and one between joists. Be careful not to damage board edges in the process. When you are ready for the final row, wedge the boards firmly into place, drill pilot holes. Nail or screw the boards to the floor near the edge, as you did with the starter row. Be careful with placement so nails or screws will be covered by baseboards. INSTALLATION – SHEET VINYL Vinyl sheet flooring comes in both 6 and 12-foot widths. Because it can be installed in kitchens and bathrooms without seams, it remains a favored choice floor covering for those type rooms. If seams are inevitable, installation can be planned so seams occur in inconspicuous, low-traffic areas. This reduces the risk of water seeping through the seams and causing damage. About Sheet Vinyl



Sheet vinyl resists water; it is practical, durable, and cushions the feet. Like any other type floor coving, it is available in different grades and qualities. Rule of thumb, the higher the concentration of vinyl in the sheet floor covering, the more resilient and long-lasting it will be. Thickness is another indication the floor will wear well. Solid vinyl is best, as well as the most expensive. It is available in both full-spread and perimeter-bond types; full-spread has a felt-paper backing. It is secured using an adhesive that bonds it tightly to the floor. Perimeter-bond has a smooth, white PVC backing; it is laid directly over underlayment and secured in place using a special adhesive around the perimeters. Underlayment and Installation Success There are several factors that contribute to whether or not sheet vinyl installation is a success or a failure. At the top of the list for installation success is underlayment surface. It must be smooth, even, and clean. Made from a material approved for that purpose; free from any ink, factory stamps, or paint. Otherwise stains or discolorations could bleed through. Lauan plywood is construction grade plywood, made from a tropical hardwood. Type 1 exterior grade lauan plywood is the only type accepted by most sheet vinyl manufacturers as an appropriate sheet vinyl subfloor. Other types of plywood that may be more suitable as sheet vinyl subfloor include poplar or birch. Using lesser grade plywood as sheet vinyl underlayment is not recommended, as hollow spots in between the veneer face layers can cause “spongy areas” on the floor. Other poor quality underlayment choices contain water soluble extractive chemicals that can cause staining. A good thing to remember is that just because one type underlayment is recommended as the best choice by one vinyl sheet manufacture, that same underlayment may not be the best choice for another. It is important, therefore, to carefully read and follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for the product you are going to install. Other secrets for installation success include:

• Clean, accurate cuts – the vinyl must fit perfectly along the contours of the room,

matching the outline of the floor.

• Using a paper template will help insure cuts will be accurate. (See directions for making a template below.)

• Full-spread vinyl can be installed over any flat, level surface recommended for

underlayment material as long as it is clean and free from ink, factory stamps, and paint – as noted above. Perimeter bond vinyl that will be stapled around the perimeter will require a wood substrate.



• Before applying new adhesive to the floor, remove any old. Old adhesives can react with chemicals in new adhesive and create stains.

• Always use the recommended adhesive for whatever type sheet vinyl you are

installing. Note: Some manufacturers require you use their name brand glue and will void their warranty if another type of glue is used.

• Apply adhesive sparingly; use a 1/8-inch or 1/4-inch notched trowel for

application. Reduce the risk of failure To reduce the risk of failure when installing sheet vinyl, remember the following:

• Avoid using an adhesive not specifically recommended by the sheet vinyl

manufacture. Not only can this void any warranty, but some type glues contain chemicals not compatible with the components used in sheet vinyl. This can cause discolorations to leach through the vinyl, creating unsightly stains.

• Sheet vinyl seams require extra attention. Cracking and separation can result

from using an “off the shelf” products unapproved by the sheet vinyl manufacturer.

• Avoid using poor quality plywood as underlayment, as well as any material not

recommended by the sheet vinyl manufacturer.

• Avoid using poor quality floor mates on sheet vinyl after it has been installed, as discolorations can develop.

How to Make a Paper Template Place paper that is 12 to18-inches wide along the walls of the room you plan to install sheet vinyl; butchers or brown wrapping paper works best. Be sure and leave a 1/8-inch gap between the wall and paper. Cut out triangular holes in the paper at about 18-inch intervals using a utility knife. Fasten the template to the floor using masking tape over the holes. Work with one piece of paper at a time in making your template. As you work your way around the perimeter of the room, overlap pattern seams about 2-inches and tape together. Slide paper under door casings. Fit around pipes the following way:

• Tape sheets of paper on either side of the pipe. • Measure the distance from the wall to the center of the pipe; subtract 1/8-inch (to

account for the 1/8-inch wall to paper gap). • Transfer the measurement to a separate piece of paper; use a compass to draw the

pipe diameter onto the paper. • Cut the pipe hole with scissors or a utility knife; cut a slit from the center of the

cutout to the edge of the paper.



• Fit the cutout around the pipe; tape the pipe-hole template to the adjoining template sheets.

Once the paper template is complete, identify the top side with a mark. Carefully roll or loosely fold the template for carrying. Cutting Sheet Vinyl for Installation Unroll the vinyl flooring, pattern side up, on any large, clean, flat surface; dry and free from debris. If installation requires more than one piece of vinyl, plan seams carefully. Position pieces so the seam will be located in an inconspicuous, low traffic area of the floor. Cut the seam to fall along patterned lines or simulated grout joints so it will be less noticeable. Overlap edges of vinyl sheets by at least 2-inches and tape together. If possible, avoid standing or kneeling on the vinyl while working. Situate the paper template over the sheet vinyl carefully; tape it securely in place. Trace the outline of the template onto the vinyl using a non-permanent fine tip felt marking pen, and then remove the template. Cut along the tracing lines using a sharp utility or linoleum knife. Use a straightedge as a guide when making long cuts. Cut holes for pipes and other permanent obstructions; cut a slit from the pipe-hole to the nearest edge of the flooring. Whenever possible, make slits along decorative pattern lines. When complete, roll – do not fold – the flooring, and then transfer it to the installation area. Preparing for Installation Once the sheet vinyl has been cut, and rolled loosely for transportation to the installation site, you are ready to install it. Make sure the floor surface is clean; completely free of dirt and debris. Unroll the flooring and carefully position it; slide the edges beneath undercut door casings. For two-piece installations, trim the excess (2-inch overlap). Use a framing square as a guide to cut the seam along patterned lines; be sure and cut through both pieces of vinyl. Remove the scrap pieces; the two sheets of vinyl should be pattern-matched. Make sure flooring is perfectly in place before applying adhesive. Perimeter-bond Vinyl Installation If installing perimeter bond vinyl, begin to attach the vinyl to the subfloor / underlayment at the seams. Gently fold back the seams about 1-foot. Use a notched trowel or wallboard knife to apply a 4-inch wide swath of flooring adhesive to the subfloor. Place the seam edges on the adhesive, one at a time; press gaps together with your fingers, making sure each seam is tight. If needed, use a hard rubber roller (also known as a J-roller), wallpaper seam roller, or rolling pin; press firmly and roll evenly.



Apply flooring adhesive underneath flooring cuts at pipes or posts, and around the entire perimeter of the room. Use the roller to ensure proper contact with adhesive. If flooring is being applied over wood underlayment, use 3/8-inch staples driven every 4-inches around the perimeter of the vinyl to further secure it to the subfloor. Make sure, however, staples will be hidden by base molding once it is in place. Full-spread Vinyl Installation Once the flooring is perfectly in place, pull back half of the flooring and apply a layer of flooring adhesive over the underlayment. Use the adhesive sparingly, but cover the area completely. Lay the flooring back onto the adhesive. Use a heavy flooring roller to roll the vinyl in even rolls, moving toward the edges of the sheet. The roller helps to create a stronger bond and eliminate air bubbles. When finished, fold over the un-bonded section of flooring and repeat the process. Using a clean damp rage, wipe away any adhesive residue from around the edges of the vinyl. Arrange metal threshold bars cut to fit across doorways; position over the edge of the vinyl flooring, and nail in place. INSTALLATION – FLOOR-WARMING SYSTEMS Ceramic and stone tile make beautiful floor covering and are favored choices for rooms such as bathrooms and kitchens. One significant drawback, however, is how cold it can be to walk on in bare feet. This is especially true during cold season months. One remedy for this problem is the installation of a floor-warming system underneath the tiles. Something enjoyed by some 850,000 households across the United States and Canada. Characteristically, these systems consist of one or more thin mats with electric resistance wires, and are installed in thin set cement. Normally, they are hard-wired to a 120-volt GFCI circuit, and controlled using a timer-thermostat; much like an electric blanket. Besides providing an evenly warm walking surface, floor warming systems offer a secondary heat source that increases room temperature comfort level; allowing you to zone heat your home and reduce heating bills. Another great thing about floor-warming systems is how cost-effective they are. Because heat isn’t forced through ducts or lost rising to the ceiling, most systems operate on less than 10-cents a day! Households with Energy Star rated, programmable thermostat floor-heating systems in their bathrooms, kitchens, basements, or other rooms of the house can reduce energy costs by as much as 40-percent. Because the system functions with a sensor in the floor and does not measure air temperature of the room, the thermostat can be placed in a closet or another unseen, inconspicuous location. Although installation of the mats and cold lead wire work can be



accomplished by a do-it-yourselfer, timer and thermostat connection are aspects that should be handled by an experienced electrician. Safe, quiet, relatively easy to install, and a great way to provide more consistent temperatures throughout the house and get rid of “discomfort zones,” there are floor-warming system mats that can also be installed under vinyl, laminate, and engineered wood floors. If not being installed directly over cement, install cementboard as a subfloor before laying the mats. Systems normally range from $300 to $600 for the average sized-bathroom of around 30 square feet. There are various sized mats for larger rooms; custom made systems are also available. What to look for in a Floor-warming System

• Select a floor-warming system that can be installed in a single layer of thin set cement rather than two layers. This allows for faster, easier installation a DIY handyman can more easily handle.

• Look for cold lead wires long enough to connect to the thermostat without

requiring cut-&-turns of the mat to bring it closer to the thermostat.

• Some products weave the wires over and under a fiberglass net – leaving some areas of the wire vulnerable to damage. Look for a product with a fiberglass net or other supporting material that completely covers the resistance wire. This helps ensure wires will not become nicked or damaged by the trowel during installation, when applying the adhesive.

• Look for a system with ultra-thin 1/8-inch thick cold-lead wires. Cold-lead wires

as thin as the heat resistance wires will help ensure easy, complete coverage by the adhesive. Note: a system with thicker cold-lead wires will add extra steps to the installation process. It will require that either a groove be chiseled in the cement slab underneath, or cut in the plywood sub-floor or backer board to keep the floor level flat.

One cost-effective option to consider in place of a thermostat is a dimmer switch, which runs just under $40. Although the system would not turn on automatically, you would still be able to increase and decrease floor temperature manually. Manual thermostats with floor sensors are available for under $70; programmable thermostats with sensors run around $150. Although using a timer independent of a thermostat to heat the floor during certain periods is possible, it is not recommended. This is because the floor temperature will continue to increase as long as the timer is on – since the timer by itself has no floor sensor.



Finally, select a manufacturer that offers vender technical support that helps DIY homeowners by designing a layout for the system, customized to the homeowner’s own floor plan for maximized uniform heating. Before and After Installation Checks One critical aspect of installing a floor-warming system is to perform a resistance test to ensure heating wires were not damaged during shipping. Other tests should also be performed once the system is in place to ensure wires were not damaged during the installation process. To check for wire damage prior to installation, inspect the resistance value of each heating mat using a digital multi-tester. Check the reading against the factory-tested reading noted in the manufacturer’s guide. Your reading should fall within the acceptable range determined in the guide. Otherwise, the mat has been damaged and should not be installed. Record the reading to compare against others that will be taken. During installation, check the resistance of the mats periodically; once installation is complete, check the resistance once again. How to Install a Floor-warming System under a Tile Floor While keeping to the specific guidelines for whatever floor-warming system you are installing, pay attention to the basic steps below. In the event of a discrepancy between the two, always follow the manufacturer directions.

1. Remove the wall surface to expose the framing for installation of the boxes for the warmer system thermostat and timer. Install a 2 ½-inch deep by 4-inch wide double-gang box for the thermostat on one side of a stud; a single-gang electrical box for the timer on the other side. Note: select an easy-to-access location; box placement should be about 60-inches from the floor.

2. Make holes for routing the power leads and thermostat sensor wire. Use a plumb

bob or level to mark points on the bottom wall plate directly below the two knockouts on the thermostat box. At each mark, drill a ½-inch hole down through the top of the plate; drill two more holes through the sides of the plate as close to the floor as possible, to intersect the top holes.

3. Using a tube cutter, cut two lengths of ½-inch thin wall electrical conduit to fit

between the thermostat box and the bottom plate. If installing 3 or more mats, use ¾-inch conduit instead.

4. Place the bottom end of each conduit up about ¼-inch into a hole in the bottom

plate. Using a setscrew fitting, fasten the top end to the thermostat box.



5. Run a 12-gauge Nm electrical cable from the service panel to the timer box; attach it using a cable clamp. Be sure and leave about 8-inches of extra cable extending from the box.

6. About 12-inchs above the boxes, drill a 5/8-inch hole through the center of the

stud. Making a smooth curve, run a short branch cable from the timer box through the drilled hole, to the thermostat. Secure both ends using clamps.

After planning out ceramic or other tile and snap reference lines, vacuum the floor thoroughly and spread out the heating mats. Make sure the power leads are positioned closest to the electrical boxes. Mats should be positioned no closer than 3-inches to walls, showers, tubs, toilet flanges, or other permanent fixtures in the room. They should be positioned 1 to 2-inches under the kick space of vanities to prevent hot heels and cold toes when standing in front of the vanity. The mat, however, should not be positioned under the cabinet itself, or under expansion joints in the concrete slab. Individual mats should be set close together, but should not overlap; heating wires should be no closer than 2-inches from wires on neighboring mats. Once the mats are in place, check to insure power leads will reach the thermostat box. The mats should be completely flat, wrinkle and ripple free. Secure the mats to the floor using double-sided tape. Space tape about every 2-feet and press firmly to insure the mat is firmly secured. Because insulated power leads are on the thick side, you will most probably have to create recesses in the floor for the connection between the power leads and heating-mat wires. Use a grinder or chisel and hammer to make the recess. Once the connection has been fitted in the recess, secure it using a bead of hot glue. Your next step is to complete the wiring process:

7. Thread steel fish tape down the conduits. Use electrical tape to attach the ends of the power leads to the fish tape; pull the fish tape and leads up the conduit.

8. Disconnect the fish tape, and secure the leads to the box using insulated clamps.

Leave about 8-inches extending from the clamps; cut any access leads using snips or pliers.

9. Feed the heat sensor wire through the other conduit, and then weave it into the

mesh of the nearest mat. Extend it into the mat 6 to 12-inches, and secure it in between two resistance wires using dabs of hot glue.

10. Using the multi-tester, test the resistance wires once again to ensure they are still

undamaged; record the reading for future reference.



You are now ready to install the tile flooring. Use thin-set mortar as an adhesive; spread it carefully over the floor and warming mats using a square-notched trowel. Every so often, use the multi-tester to check the resistance reading to ensure no damage has been done to the mats. Once tile installation is completed, check mat resistance once again. If everything checks out, complete the floor-warming installation process as follows:

11. Attach the adapter cover to the thermostat box. Patch the wall opening with wallboard.

12. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, complete the wiring connections for

the thermostat and timer. Attach the sensor wire to the thermostat setscrew connection. Apply the manufacturer’s wring labels to the thermostat box and service panel. Mount the thermostat and timer; complete the circuit connection at the service panel.

Once the flooring materials have fully cured, test the floor warming system one last time to ensure it functions properly.

WALLS AND CEILINGS – INSTALLING WALLBOARD The most common way to finish walls and ceilings is by installing gypsum wallboard to the framing and ceiling joists. It is also called drywall, sheetrock or sometimes just “rock.” It is available in 4X8, 4X12, and 4X16 foot sheets; in 1/4-inch, 3/8-inch (becoming increasingly difficult to find because it is not commonly used), 1/2-inch, and 5/8-inch thicknesses. Most local building codes require that perimeter walls and staircases of a building have 5/8-inch thickness for enhanced fire resistance. 4X8 sheets of drywall have a grey backing; longer sheets have white. Gypsum wallboard is also available in a water-resistant form for use in bathrooms. It can be identified by its light green paper covering instead of the standard white. Wallboard is not a suitable substrate for installing ceramic tile; use cementboard, instead. Once insulation has been installed, and vapor barrier (if included) in place, walls and ceilings are ready for wallboard. Basics If any wall studs or joists look out of alignment, check them using a straight edge. Shim recessed wall studs and ceiling joists using paper drywall shims, so the wall is relatively even.



Wall framing studs have a “crown” side; one that slightly bows outward. Most framers put the crowns all on the same side. This causes the wall to be slightly concave (curved in) or slightly convex (rounded), depending on crown placement. Starting at one end of the wall and pushing sheets tightly against a curved wall will throw the joints off. So, if what you desire is a concave wall, first snap a chalk line across the framing studs 4-feet out from the ends of the wall; lay the first row of wallboard to that line. For a convex wall, you would snap the chalk line 4-feet from its innermost point. The long edges of wallboard are slightly tapered. When two sheets butt against the other it forms a shallow “hollow, with the seam in the middle. This allows for easier taping. When long sheets are installed horizontally, ends butt together without forming a hollow. The resulting seam can be somewhat more difficult to tape. The horizontal method will produce fewer seams. It will also result in waist-height seams that are less noticeable than 4-foot interval vertical seams. The difference in appearance is especially noticeable near the ceiling area. The Ins and Outs of Wallboard and What you will Need When purchasing wallboard keep in mind that it must be carried into the job site. Longer sheets will be more difficult to maneuver, and may not fit through some passage ways. Also keep in mind that wallboard is relatively heavy and awkward to carry. For that reason it may well be worth the extra money to have the building supply store where it was purchased deliver it to the job site. It may also be worthwhile to purchase more sheets than what you feel is needed; in case of breakage, or measurement or cutting miscalculations. This will reduce the risk of having to make a return trip to the store for more at a later time. Wallboard is fastened using either screws or nails driven through the sheet into the wall stud or ceiling joist beneath. Although most do-it-yourselfers find nails easiest to use, screws will be stronger. Sometimes a bead of glue is also used for additional support. It will take about 5-pounds of 1 1/2-inch drywall screws or 1 3/8-inch drywall nails (ring-shank nails will not hold as well as drywall nails) per 1,000 square feet of drywall. Even when using screws, be sure to get some nails for corner bead. When using glue, use an adhesive such as PL-200, which comes in a tube-like caulk. Allow a large 32-ounce tube for every three 8-foot sheets of wallboard. Corner bead is available in plastic or metal strips; it is used to finish corners and certain edges. Metal corner bead makes a durable 90-degree corner; if you want a rounded edge, use bull-nosed bead. Segmented bead is suitable for rounded openings; flexible corner bead is available for edges other than 90-degree. Inside corners are simply finished with tape and drywall mud



(joint compound); J-bead is used for inside corners where a new wall butts up to a finished or concrete wall. Other Considerations Drywall compound or “mud” is a mixture of gypsum and water used to cover seams, screws, and nails. When dry, it is easily sanded to make a smooth surface which does not show seams and fasteners. Approximately 140-pounds of compound will be needed for 1,000 square feet of drywall. A 5 gallon bucket weighs 62-pounds; it is also available in 40-pound boxes. Compound comes in 2 grades; “all-purpose,” and “topping” or “finishing.” All-purpose can be used for all phases of taping, patching, and texturing. Topping grade is slightly thinner and smoother; making it easier for use as a final coat on seams, or for texturing. Buy extra; it will be less expensive to have more than what is needed than to have to drive back to the store for extra later. As drywall compound dries, it shrinks. So, if you are patching large areas or holes it is best to use a product such as Durabond. It comes in powder form and is mixed with water; dries quickly, and does not shrink. Be careful, however, to purchase the right type. Durabond comes in 2 types; one is sand-able, the other sets up very hard. Paper drywall tape is about 2-inches wide and sold in rolls. It is used with drywall compound to reinforce and hide wallboard seams. A thin coat of compound is spread on the seam; once dry, the tape is placed over it. And then another thin coat of compound is smoothed over the tape. Some people prefer using plastic mesh tape, which is slightly adhesive on one side. Mesh tape is a little more expensive, but may well be worth the additional expense for the novice DIY installer. To use, simply press it over seams, and cover with mud. The Installation Process – Start with the Ceiling When you begin installation, always start with the ceiling. Anyone who has ever mounted wallboard on a ceiling knows it is a nearly impossible task without one or more helpers to hold it in place. The use of a drywall jack can simplify things immensely. A sheet of drywall can be placed on the jack, hoisted into place, and then fastened to ceiling joists after being adjusted for a precise fit. Be sure and measure accurately. Install wallboard so that sheets run lengthwise across the ceiling or at a right angle to joists; with end seams falling as close to the middle of the joist as possible. Use a pencil to mark lines for easy placement of fasteners. When fastening, start with ends. Rule of thumb is to space fasteners about 8-inches apart. Around the edges, place one fastener at each joist. Add 6 fasteners along each joist line,



in pairs spaced 2-inches apart. Space pairs evenly along joist line. When taping, fasteners can be covered with drywall compound with a stroke of the drywall knife. Note: building codes have very strict regulations about how many fasteners are required to attach wallboard. Be sure and check your local building code requirements. Most professional wallboard installers use a screw gun with a special adapter that disengages screws at a proper depth. Attachments are available for a regular or cordless screwdriver that works in the same way. Avoid using the clutch on a cordless screwdriver. It could result in inconsistencies in screw depth. Screws that are too deep break the paper, causing a raised area in the drywall. Screws not driven in far enough protrude above the finished surface, and make taping and patching difficult. Measure accurately when pre-cutting openings for light fixtures and HOT WIRE vents. If you prefer, you can tack the drywall up in place and then cut openings using a drywall router or a drill with a zip bit. When installing the next row of sheets, be sure to arrange them so that end joints are staggered from the first run of sheets. Occasionally, a piece may finish just short or just past a joist. Either cut the piece, or add a 2X4 to the side of the joist, then attach the drywall. Walls Once the ceiling has been installed, begin the walls. Butt the first run on each up to the ceiling. In some rooms longer sheets will span the entire wall. However, if wallboard needs to be pieced, make sure joints will fall in the middle of a framing stud. When installing wallboard around a door or window, carefully measure and pre-cut openings. Use just a few fasteners to tack up a sheet of wallboard right over the opening, and then cut with a drywall router. A drill and zip bit also works well. Once the opening is cut to fit, install the rest of the fasteners. Note: openings for wall outlets, switch panels, and HVAC vents should be cut in this same manner. When cutting full sheets for a custom fit, use a large T-square, and then score the wallboard on the line you want cut using a utility knife. Carefully push the waste piece away from the cut; the gypsum core of the wallboard should “pop” and break on the line. On the back side, cut the paper along the break line using a sharp utility knife. Use a Surform plane to straighten and smooth the edge for a tight-fitting joint. If the ceiling is less than 8-feet, the bottom run of drywall will have to be cut lengthwise. When installing the bottom run, allow a gap of 3/8 to 1/2-inch at the bottom. Use a pry bar to gently lift the sheet off the floor, and then fit snugly into place. Leaving a gap will help prevent moisture from wicking up into the wallboard if the floor gets wet. Note: if there is enough water present in a water damage/flood situation, drywall with an insufficient gap



at the bottom can wick the moisture 4-feet or more up into the wall, causing un-repairable damage. Before starting on the bottom run, mark the position of the framing studs so that once wallboard installation is complete, there will be a reference for installing baseboard moldings. Corner Beading Once wallboard has been fastened in place, outside corners will need corner bead to protect the corner and allow proper finishing. Corner bead is simple to install. Simply place over the corner and nail it in place using the smaller holes; spaced at about 6-inch intervals. There is a trick to proper corner bead installation:

• Take a short piece of corner bead and hold it against a corner.

• Place a 6-inch drywall knife with one corner touching the corner bead edge, the

other touching the surface of the drywall beyond the corner bead.

• There should be about a 1/16-inch gap between the knife and the nailing edge of the corner bead.

When properly nailed in place, the 1/16-inch gap allows the drywall compound to be spread in a layer just thick enough to hide the corner bead, yet blend in well with the surface of the drywall. Pushing too hard will make contact between the drywall knife blade and the nailing flange. If the spine of the corner bead is pulled out too far, the corner will exceed 90-degrees, making it difficult to install the base molding. Finishing Up After beading is properly installed and wallboard joints (seams) neatly taped, the final step is to apply drywall compound. This can be a difficult task to perform properly, and may take practice. A poor job will be highly visible. But with practice and by following basic techniques, even a do-it-yourselfer can achieve a wall finish with finesse. There are 3 “stages” of drywall finishing; each involves the application of drywall compound. First, cover screw and nail heads, then fill joint cracks. Finally, apply 2-inch joint tape to reinforce joints. Use either paper or plastic/fiberglass mesh, whichever you prefer. Most beginners find fiberglass mesh easiest to work with. How to Apply Drywall Compound and Tape Before starting, make sure no nails or screw heads protrude above the wall surface. Accomplish this by running the edge of a 4-inch drywall knife over the wall; listen for the



ping of metal on metal. Drive any protruding heads further in, so they are below the surface of the wallboard. Buttjoints are usually done first, then flat joints, (factory-recessed edges), and then ceiling-to-wall joints. By starting with the buttjoints, ceiling corner tape and flat joint tape will cover butt joint tape. Use a 6-inch drywall knife; take small dabs of compound from the pan, and trowel them across the joint along its entire length. Lightly smooth with the trowel. Next, place a piece of tape over the joint; press it lightly into place. Cut it off at the end of the joint. For vertical joints, start in the middle of the joint and work out to the ends. Using modest pressure, pull a 6-inch knife along the joint; pushing the paper slightly into the compound, squeezing out the excess. Be careful not to press too hard and squeeze too much of the compound out, or the tape will not stick to the wall and will bubble. Gently clean off ridges of excess mud at the edges of the tape; smooth one final time from the middle of the joint, and then leave it. The tendency most novices have it to keep smoothing it; but once you’ve followed the above process, leave it alone and move on. The concept is to use as little compound as possible, while at the same time getting just enough on so that the tape has something to stick to with no dry spots that will bubble. It takes practice to get the feel for just the right amount of compound. When sanding, keep it to a minimum. Once buttjoints are dry, do the flat joints in the same manner. Start in the center and work out towards the ends. By waiting until the buttjoints are dry, there is no risk of pulling the butt joint tape loose when intersecting. Inside corner joints are handled like butt and flat joints, but are more complicated because of the right angle. Place dabs of mud along the joint, and smooth using a 6-inch drywall knife. When taping, use your fingers to crease the tape along the factory ridge in the center. Gently push the tape into the corner and smooth it along the drywall surface with your fingers. Trim to fit at the ends, which can be ½-inch shorter than the joint. Start at the center; push the tape into the corner. Trowel one side towards the joint end using a 4 or 6-inch drywall knife. Do the same along the opposite edge. Be careful to leave enough of the compound under the tape so it will adhere correctly. Tip: allow wall-to-ceiling inside corner joints to dry before starting on vertical wall-to-wall inside corner joints. If outside corner bead has been properly installed, applying mud will be easy. Simply dab mud along both sides of the corner, and then smooth using one edge of the drywall knife. One edge of the blade should be slightly straddling the corner, the other riding along the wall. Smooth off any ridges of excess mud, and then leave it alone.



Applying the Second Coat of Compound Once everything has dried, carefully apply a second coat of compound to fill in low spots and cover any defects in the first coat. This will also help feather the taped and mudded surfaces into the drywall surface. If the first coat was properly applied, sanding between first and second coat applications will not be necessary. Remove any ridges or dried blobs of compound with a 6-inch knife. Be thorough; any bumps or ridges left behind will be difficult to deal with later. Use the same order of application used with the first coat, but use a 12-inch drywall knife instead of 6-inch. Start with the buttjoints; trowel mud up along one side of the joint, and then the other. It might take a second pass to get an even coat. Once you have an even coat on both sides, make one more pass on each. Put slightly more pressure on the outside of the blade; you want to feather compound from a slight ridge in the center of the joint, while blending it to the wall edge. Then leave it alone and move on. Finish all buttjoints and let them dry before starting flat joints; do the same before moving to corner joints. You’ll also want to second coat the screw and nail heads as you work. Applying the Skim Coat Before you begin the final or skim coat, again scrape off any dried lumps, ridges or slops. If there are problem areas, you can sand them. But full sanding comes later. The skim coat fills any imperfections in the joints or feathering using a thinner, lighter compound. Use a 12-inch blade on butt and flat joints; a 6 or 8-inch blade for corners, nail and screw heads. Because the coat goes on thinner, it dries much faster. Once the final coat is thoroughly dry, full sanding can begin. Sanding drywall will produce an abundance of fine white dust. Therefore, it is a good idea to seal off the area using plastic sheeting to minimize dust intrusion to other areas of the structure. If there are windows that can be opened with fans venting air to the outside, it will help. Be sure to wear a dust mask and safety glasses or goggles. If applications of tape and compound have been properly administered, a minimum of sanding will be necessary. The surface just needs to be smooth for primer and painting. While sanding, go lightly. The idea is just to minimize humps over joints, not create a perfectly flat surface. Small ridges will quickly disappear; be careful not sand into joint tape or drywall paper. If you do, circle them with a pencil to repair later, and move on. When finished, use a trowel to skin the areas, including any crevices that didn’t sand out. Let dry, then sand lightly.



TEXTURING WALLS Most renovation projects or new construction utilize gypsum wallboard as the preferred choice for finishing interior walls. Once wallboard has been installed and joints taped and sanded, walls can be paneled, painted, wallpapered, or textured. For walls that will be textured, texture is applied before adding a coat of primer and paint. Texturing not only adds character to the wall. It also efficiently covers any flaws or imperfections in the joint taping work. Since “perfect” wallboard joint taping is more likely achieved by a professional drywaller, DIY homeowners who undertake a wallboard project are more likely to add texture to their walls. The Two Most Popular Types of Texturing One of the most common types of wall texturing is “orange peel;” also known as “eggshell” or “splatter.” Small splatters of thinned drywall compound are sprayed onto the wall; the finished result is a roughened texture much like the outer peel of an orange. Another type of texturing that is popular is called “knock-down,” also known as “skip trowel.” This is accomplished by spraying spatters of thinned drywall compound onto the wall. After it has started to set up, it is gently smoothed using a 12-inch drywall knife or trowel to flatten the tops of larger spatters. Small-sized spatters produce small, flat, smooth areas within the texture; large sized spatters produce larger, flattened areas within the texture. Both orange peel and knock-down finishes require a spray applicator to apply splatters of thinned drywall compound to the wall. There are various types available for purchase or rent, including those that use compressed air to spray the compound. Other types of applicators use electric pumps. Each application device incorporates a hopper into which thinned drywall compound is placed. Some use larger hoppers that sit on the floor and feed the solution to a hand-held trigger sprayer. Others use smaller hoppers attached to the spray gun itself. Other Texturing Techniques Another texturing technique is known as “slapbrush/knockdown;” sometimes also referred to as “palm texture” or “tiger skin texture.” This technique employs the use of different types of special texture brushes; round, square, single, or double-headed – each creating a different effect. With the exception of popcorn ceiling texturing, most texturing methods used for ceilings can also be used on walls; for instance, the stomp brush technique. Texturing compound is thinned to about the consistency of thick paint, and then applied using a long-nap paint roller on an extension handle.



The applied mixture is then textured by gently tamping it with a “stomp brush.” It is important to work quickly before the compound begins to set. When using a stomp brush, you must rotate it after each stroke to avoid a repeating pattern from occurring. With the use of bull-nose corner bead that produces rounded corner edges, a rustic “old-world” effect can be achieved by using a trowel to apply a thick coat of drywall compound. Start at one end of a wall, and then finish with a series of half circles that overlap down the wall. Another texture can be obtained by applying a lump of compound and then tapering it down to the surface. Repeat the process, over-lapping and working subsequent applications in the same direction, as you work your way down the wall. When you use drywall compound to add texture to a wall, use your imagination to produce different effects. The key is achieving a consistent finish throughout the project with whatever texture you develop. Once texturing has dried completely, apply a primer coat. Follow by at least 2 coats of paint in the color and type preferred; egg shell, semi-gloss, or gloss finishes are best choices for washable walls. Besides those mentioned above, are other types of wall texturing techniques; including “sand swirl” and “Spanish knife.” Application of many types of texturing requires only a minimum amount of practice to develop the technique adequately. The main requirement is that application be consistent throughout the entire area being textured. Note: spray-on texturing is messy business; all surfaces not being textured should be covered with plastic sheeting and masked off. Entryways leading into other areas of the house closed off. SOUNDPROOFING If you desire a room with enhanced soundproofing qualities, a good time to provide for it is when installing insulation. Soundproofing is rated by a system called Sound transmission class (STC); the higher the STC rating, the better the soundproofing qualities of the wall. In addition, since air transmits sound, any air spaces left in the wall (such as around outlets, plumbing, vents, and wiring) will adversely affect the STC. An STC rating of 20 to 25 allows normal speech to be heard through the wall; a wall with an STC rating of 42 reduces normal speech to a murmur. A 2X4 frame wall with fiberglass insulation and drywall on both sides will provide a moderate STC of 39. The same wall with a double layer of drywall on the soundproofed side will increase the STC to 44. The top layer of drywall is installed using sound channels; creating air space between the layers of drywall. The same wall can be slightly improved by using acoustical tile instead



of the second layer of drywall, the STC rating can be increased to 46. This can further be enhanced by using a little different design in the stud wall itself. Enhancing STC Rating To enhance STC rating, install 2X4 studs vertically on a 2X6 top and bottom plate when constructing room walls. Stagger the 2X4 studs so that they alternate being flush with either side of the plates. Weave fiberglass insulation into the middle space between each, with batts running horizontally. Once both sides of the wall are finished off with ½-inch drywall, the resulting STC is an impressive 48. Note: at an STC rating of 50, a loud voice or shout cannot be heard on the other side of the wall. Other Sound Proofing Material Options One inexpensive alternative to regular insulation is foam sound proofing material. The foam comes in ½-inch to 2-inch thicknesses, enabling it to fit into any space. STC ratings using the foam run between 40 and 50. Vinyl sound proofing materials yield even more impressive results, with ratings between 42 and 55. And Metal wall channels have STC ratings of 38 to 50. Of course, home location, the nature of the noise, and homeowner budget are all determining factors on which soundproofing techniques will work best.

WINDOWS Besides being the looking glass into the outside world from the interior of your home, windows add to aesthetic house appeal – inside and out. As home components, windows serve a dual functional. They provide light and control air flow throughout the house, and allow for exits from the house in case of an emergency. Windows also affect the comfort of interior climate and play a vital role in the way your home gains and loses heat. Window frames come in a variety of materials. Including traditional wood; this provides the best insulation, although water, humidity, sunlight, and other outdoor elements take their toll. Making regular maintenance and upkeep necessary in order to keep wood frames looking attractive and in good repair. Other frame materials include aluminum and vinyl (PVC-U) – both virtually maintenance free; offering a more modern look that enhances a variety of home styles. Composite frames such as fiberglass are also available. With the same advantages of aluminum and vinyl, they are also strong and long-lasting.



Although they are a more expensive window frame choice, one added advantage of composite frames is that they can be painted for a more natural look. TYPES Older double-hung windows have heavy sash weights concealed behind the frame’s side jambs. The weights are connected by a rope and pulley system that counterbalances sashes. Making them easy to open and enabling them to stay in partial opened positions. Newer double-hung windows use spring lift devices instead of weight and pulley. Both newer and older double-hung windows allow for one-half the total area to be opened for ventilation. Besides being arranged in single units, doubled, or in groups of three or more, they are often used on either side of a large stationary insulted window to create a “window wall.” More traditional than other the window types, double hung are also the most familiar and a good window choice when you want to maximize the amount of wood on the interior of a home. They come in various widths; from short and narrow, to tall and wide – up to 45-inches. Opting to one larger window in place of two smaller, narrower casement windows can help homeowners cut down on new window costs. Other types of windows available include:

• Casement windows – which are becoming more common in newer homes. They

work like a door, swinging to the side to open and close, and are a great window choice in areas where windows are harder to reach – such as over the kitchen sink. They are available in a variety of sizes and in square and rectangle shapes; as well as custom shapes such as arches and trapezoids.

• Sliding windows – also called “sliders,” open one-half the width of the total

window area. Some have one fixed sash, and another that slides; on other styles both sashes slide to open or close. Sliding windows are the perfect choice for homeowners who desire an unobstructed view of the outdoors.

• Awning windows are similar to casement windows but wider than they are tall;

they tilt outward instead of off to the side. Some also slide downward as they tilt, allowing them to open at a nearly horizontal position for maximum cooling effect. Awning windows are commonly placed above or below another type window or over a door, providing more light and ventilation

• Jalousie windows use a series of glass slats that overlap one over another, and

pivot open when a crank is turned. The sloped slates allow cooling ventilation while resisting direct sunlight and shedding rain. Because the design is not airtight nor energy efficient, many building codes no longer allow jalousie windows for interior home use. They also represent a security risk. Therefore,



these type windows are usually reserved for breezeways, porches, and other unheated areas of a home; especially in warmer-climate areas.

• Bay windows are typically three windows joined together. The center pane is

stationary with double-hung or casement windows placed at an angle on either side. Arching out, giving the sense of reaching out into the world and capturing the most view in a limited amount of space.

• Bow windows are similar to bay, but consist of four or more casement windows

jointed together, forming a graceful curve. Choices include fixed windows, vented windows that can be opened, or a combination of both. Creating a visually stunning effect and an entirely new look to a room, while at the same time offering more space, light, and enhancing outside view.

• Fixed windows cannot be opened. They are available in a wide range of sizes; up

to 48-square feet. They come in different shapes with various features, and are often used by themselves or in addition to other window types. Very large fixed windows are often referred to as “picture windows;” they monopolize a wall with an unimpeded outdoor view.

• Circle-head windows are another type of fixed window. Used as an accent over

tall windows or doors, they add more light and an elegant, dramatic flair. Available in a wide variety of shapes to be used singularly or in combination with others.

REMOVAL Installing new windows can drastically enhance the aesthetic appearance of your home. They also provide advanced features that can step up security, improve room lighting and climate comfort, and increase energy efficiency, as well. Certain aspects of removing old windows are dependant on the particular window type involved. However, other aspects of removal are applicable to all window types. Basic Guidelines Regardless what window type you have, care must be taken during removal. Consider the following:

• The risk of breaking glass can represent a danger to safety. Place strips of

masking tape crisscrossing over the glass surface will help reduce the risk of glass breakage during the removal process.

• Lay a sheet or tarp outside, below the window area. Not only is this another good

safety precaution, but saves on clean up time in the event glass does break.



• Windows are heavy and can be awkward to handle while removing, so help will be required. And because old windows are commonly coated with layers of old paint which can be lead-based, wearing a NIOSH-approved dust mask and gloves is recommended.

• As with any demolition project – especially those involving outdated materials

now recognized as possible health hazards, prompt removal of debris from the premises is important. In addition to efforts to prevent as much dust and debris from filtrating into the home while the project is in progress. Prompt interior clean up and vacuuming is important.

Specific Removal Techniques for Window-type Follow the procedures below for specific window-type removal. Wood framed windows – although removing an old wood window sash is fairly easy, some types of wood frames may be nailed in place through the exterior casing or jambs. It may be necessary to pry off the casing using a pry bar. Use a hacksaw blade to reach between the jamb and frame to slice through any nails in order to remove the window. A reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade can also be used. If the window has been nailed through the concealed portion of the blind stop, remove the exterior casing and pull out the nails holding it in place. If the window has counterweights, remove the access panel and take them off before working on the rest of the window. Metal framed windows – because most metal framed windows are screwed in place, removing the screws is usually all that is required. The screw heads on old windows may be concealed by layers of paint; searching for each and scraping them off and cleaning out the screwdriver slots might be required before removal. Aluminum and vinyl framed windows – will typically be nailed to sheathing under the siding through flanges. This can make removal a more difficult process than other window types. A portion of the siding will have to be removed to expose the perforated nailing flange in order to remove nails and pry the flange loose. A cats paw can be used to work out the nails for easier removal. FRAMING WINDOWS The framing required for a window for structural support is very similar to door framing. One added feature is crippling studs below the window to support the sill. Other aspects include a header supported by king studs with jack studs (to support the header) on either side. Some local building codes may require blocking between the king and next stud. King and jack studs are necessary; they transfer the weight of the home’s structure to the sole plate below. Headers are built using 2X8s, 2X10s, or 2X12s, with a ¾-inch piece of



plywood sandwiched in between. Other aspects of framing for a window include the top plate, sole plate, and rough sill. Window manufacturers usually specify the size of rough opening required for window installation. Although modest-sized windows can many times be handled as a DIY project by a homeowner with house structure requirement knowledge, a helper will most likely be required for at least some aspects of window installation. For instance, to hold the window in place while the window is shimmed, so it will be level and plumb. When it comes to wide window openings of 6-feet or more, some building codes require special trimmer methods. Although this might add to the expense, it helps adequately handle the extra load of large windows. In addition to following any local framing code requirements for window installation, a permit might also be required. Check with your local Building Department to see if this is true in your area before beginning your project. INSTALLATION Some types of window installation will definitely require the services of an experienced window installer. However, a DIY homeowner with advanced carpentry skills who is familiar with framing can usually handle a window installment project on their own. Especially when working with standard-style windows 3 ½-feet wide or smaller. Wall construction/anatomy knowledge is important when installing windows. Before beginning a window installation project, you might want to refer back to Chapter 1, House Structure Basics, under the sub-chapter sections “Walls – Interior and Exterior” and “Walls – Load and Non-load Bearing,” found on page 30. Guidelines for Window Installation Project Success:

• Following the clearance recommendations of the window manufacturer, size the

placement window slightly smaller than the opening. Carefully measure for the window’s opening; width, height, and depth. Note: vinyl frames require more clearance than those made from other materials.

• Carefully plan the window’s location to avoid plumbing, heating, electrical lines.

Note: while wiring can easily be relocated to accommodate new window placement, pipes and ductwork are another matter entirely.

• Check local building codes before replacing old windows with new. There may

be certain guidelines that must be met; such as window type, size, grade of window and glass type used. In addition, wind load guidelines for coastal and mountainous areas may also apply.



• When ordering windows from the manufacturer, allow extra time for custom-sized windows, and windows using tempered glass. High-performance windows with special coatings usually require an even longer lead time.

• Carefully consider new window rough-in dimensions; the exterior opening needs

to be only slightly larger.

• Make sure new window installation is level, square, and plumb. Otherwise, the sash will not close properly and weather stripping may not provide a proper seal.

• Work from the inside out. Mark window location, and then remove the wall

surface from ceiling to floor; to the inner edge of the first stud on either side of the rough-in measurement.

• Wait until just before inserting the window to cut the exterior sheathing and

siding.

• Pre-drilling fins and frames is recommended; countersink anchors installed through wood jambs.

• When installing windows with wood frames, use a good-quality primer and

exterior paint or sealer. Untreated wood or wood not properly protected that is exposed to outside elements will warp and deteriorate.

• Follow manufacturer’s recommendations on acceptable protective coatings and

application techniques to avoid damage to new, unpainted wood framed windows.

• When wood is cedar or redwood and paint is used instead of a sealer, a special primer is required to prevent wood oils from bleeding through the finish.

• When painting frames, remove sashes first; put back together once paint has

completely dried. Never apply paint to weather stripping or other non-wood parts.

• Allow about 8 to 10 hours to complete a window installation project.

Also, when replacing old, standard-glass windows consider safety or tempered glass as replacements. In fact, this may be a building code requirement. Such code requirements normally exist for windows subject to “human impact.” Human Impact Windows Human impact windows are those attached to entrance doors, and windows adjacent to a door. Also included are windows placed within a certain distance arc from a closed door; usually 24-inches.



Windows larger than 9-feet are considered human impact windows when the bottom is less than 18-inches above the floor and the top more than 36-inches above the floor. And windows placed within a horizontal walking path of 36-inches to the window. Actual Installation Tools required for window installation:

• Hammer • Corrosion-resistant nails / screws • Chisel • Keyhole saw or reciprocating saw • Circular saw • Carpenter’s square • Level • Nail set • Caulking gun • Standard drywall or plaster tools

Materials required:

• 2X4 trimmers • Enough 2X4 to construct a sill with cripple studs as outlined in step 6 of “How to

Install a Window” (see below) • Enough 2X6 and ½-inch plywood to construct a header for the window opening

as outlined in step 5 of “How to Install a Window” (see below) • Shims • Materials required to refinish the interior wall once window installation is

completed • Caulk

How to Install a Window If applicable, remove the old window, and then follow these 12 easy steps for new window installation:

1. Once you have carefully planned new window placement, mark the opening.

2. Using a chisel and then a keyhole or reciprocating saw, cut the opening for the window from the ceiling to the floor along bordering studs. Be sure and leave the sole plate intact.

3. Remove any studs that will be interrupted by the window. Cut through the center;

carefully pry them away from the sheathing. Also remove any other obstructions, if any; including loose materials and old caulk.



4. Nail 2X4 trimmers to the studs located at either side of the opening; the trimmers will support the window’s headers.

5. Build a header; use two 2X6 boards with a scrap of ½-inch plywood sandwiched

in between. Install the header on top of the trimmers.

6. Build a 2X4 sill supported by cripple studs. And then nail 2X4s between the header and sill, framing the side jambs at the rough-in dimension width.

7. Cut out the exterior sheathing and siding. If working from the outside, drill pilot

holes to mark corners first.

8. Set the window in place from the outside; make sure it is level and plumb. Trace around the molding; cut away siding to the trace line.

9. Level the window again. Insert shims, and nail the window to the framing

through the exterior casing into the studs.

10. Inside, insert shims and nail the sides of the window frame (the jambs) to the studs.

11. Insulate between the frame and studs; foam backer rod or loosely packed

insulation is the preferred. Non-expanding, one-part polyurethane foam is acceptable if carefully installed and not used in excess – which could cause frame distortion. NEVER USE EXPANDING FOAM. Note: do not over pack insulation between the window frame and studs. This could put too much pressure on the window frame and distort it; impeding smooth operation of the sash.

12. Refinish the interior wall, and then attach the inside window casing. Caulk around

the window frame on the exterior. PROPER CAULKING Proper caulking is vital to window installation success. Even if you carefully follow every other aspect of proper installation, a poor caulk job or the wrong choice in caulking product could yield disastrous results. Caulking is also important for effective window insulation –for both warm and cold months of the year. To avoid mistakes that could prove costly, note the following important tips:

• When gaps between the window frame and wall surface exceed 7/8 of an inch,

use solid fill strips to make gaps narrower before caulking. Likewise, when the depth of gap is deep, use foam backer rod or another type backup material to partially fill the cavity before caulking.



• When caulking, install the product to the proper depth using a continuous bead, free from voids. Beads should be about as half as deep as they are wide, and bead depth should never exceed bead width.

• Before caulking, carefully rid the area of any old caulk, dirt, oily substances,

moisture, and any other debris which would prevent the caulk from properly adhering.

• Follow the window manufacturer’s recommendations when selecting caulk; a

waterproof product made specifically for exterior use.

• Caulk formulas made using polysulfide, polyurethane, and silicone provide the best seal for window installation and will adhere well to most materials while still remaining flexible. This is especially important for the top of the retrofit unit to prevent damage to the frame should the header flex or sag.

• The wrong type caulk on vinyl window frames could not only compromise the

seal and stain frame fins, but cause severe damage to the frame, as well. In some instances, dissolving the vinyl. Use only caulk formulas recommended by the window manufacturer.

• If you plan on painting the exterior of the new window frame, make sure the caulk

you use can also be painted, or that the color caulk will be compatible with surrounding materials.

• Pick a day to install the new window when temperature is mild, and within the

range required by the caulk used for a successful seal. Note: changing temperatures cause joints to expand and contract. Applied on too-hot surfaces can cause caulk to tear once substrates contract in the winter. Applied in too-cold weather can cause caulk to become over compressed by substrate expansion during summer.

Next, be sure and caulk in all the right places, otherwise the window will leak:

• Finned windows should be caulked around the entire fin perimeter.

• Caulk corners of mechanically joined frames and other joints where leakage could

occur.

• Caulk any wood strips installed to fill gaps left where siding was removed – except when finishing trim has been installed over shim strips. In such instances a neat bead around the edges suffices and will look more professional.

• Caulk the gap between the window frame and the opening of boxframe windows

using one continuous bead, free of bubbles.



• Caulk gaps between the edge of the siding and rough opening. However, never caulk weep holes in the sill jamb; these are important for condensate drainage.

Remember, improper caulking procedures compromise the entire window installation process and leave your home vulnerable to unnecessary energy loss. A seal that does not adhere properly will not be weather tight, and can result in moisture penetration and water damage. The area around the window frame will not be well insulated, resulting in less effective internal heating/cooling efforts.

Chapter 10 – QUICK HANDYMAN PROJECTS Note: definitions for the underlined words in this chapter are found in the Glossary of Terms, located at the front of the book.

CABINETS – OLD CABINET MAKEOVER If a restricted budget forces you to keep a tight rein on kitchen renovation costs, one great way to cut corners is to give old cabinets a makeover As long as cabinet construction is sturdy and surfaces not badly warped, the following easy to follow steps below can give cabinetry the face-lift required for a fresh, new look:

• Remove hardware – while you may want to clean up and reuse the hinges, replace

handles and knobs with ones that will better enhance new kitchen décor. If you decide to replace hinges, consider concealed spring styles. Hardware holes that don’t match hardware replacements will, of course, need to be filled in and new ones drilled.

• Raised-panel cabinet doors usually have a center panel that can be removed; some

pop out, others have screws that hold them in place. These-type panels can easily be removed before painting, unless they have already been painted in place.

• Remove surface buildup; use a scraper to remove gunk. Remove remaining

residue with an appropriate grease-removing cleanser; check label for application guidelines and warnings. If everything checks out, follow directions for use, and then allow surfaces to dry thoroughly before continuing.

• Patch hardware holes made obsolete by new hardware with wood putty; use a

putty knife. Follow instructions for dry time.



• Sand surfaces – use fine grain sandpaper; 400 to 600 grit. This will remove rough spots, even out the surface, and prepare the surface for primer.

• Apply primer – apply a thin layer; allow it to dry for at least 24 hours; longer in

humid areas. Lightly sand; apply a second coat of primer, let dry and lightly sand again.

• Apply paint – two coats of gloss or semi gloss enamel for a nice, uniform finish;

allow to completely dry between coats. Old Hardwood Cabinets For old hardwood cabinets that are unfinished or refinished, use a penetrating wood stain after step 4. Stir stain well, apply with a brush; rub off with a clean rag. The longer the wood stain stays on the wood before rubbing it off, the deeper the stain. Wait at least 48-hours before applying polyurethane. Gently stir before use; do not shake the can. Shaking the can will result in air bubbles, creating an uneven finish. Follow instructions for drying time; usually 6 to 8 hours. Apply a second coat; this will seal the wood, protect it from kitchen grime, and enhance the natural wood grain. In addition to traditional wood grain stains, oil-based pastel stains are available that give wood a soft pastel color; without compromising the beauty of the grain. For a country look that will totally alter kitchen cabinetry style, replace removable cabinet door center panels with safety glass, Plexiglass® or other acrylic, bead-board painted in a contrasting color, or decorative pierced tin.

DOORS – INTERIOR VS EXTERIOR Doors are one of the most important features of any home or structure. They are available in a nearly infinite variety of styles and types. One of the most common mistakes made, whether due to economics or lack of knowledge, is using interior doors for exterior applications. Exterior Exterior doors are designed to act as a weather shield or seal; keeping outside elements such as cold and moisture from entering the structure. Normally, an entrance to a structure will have a set of two doors; a storm or screen door, and a heavy exterior door. Storm doors are usually glass with a metal or wood frame; sometimes with screen inserts. Exterior doors have a hardy solid-core wood construction, or solid metal “security” construction. In some instances a heavy exterior door will suffice, without a storm door. An example would be the outside entrance to an apartment or motel room.



Interior Interior doors are designed for just that. Use for inside the structure, as entrances into rooms such as bedrooms, bathrooms, etc. They typically have a light duty “hollow core” construction. These doors are not designed to insulate or keep out weather elements. Nor are they designed for home security purposes. Their intended use is as partitions; to separate one room from other common areas of a structure, and to provide privacy. Some interior doors may include a locking doorknob, meant more for privacy than security. Interior doors are usually covered with a thin decorative wood veneer, such as mahogany, oak, maple, or birch. Which if exposed to outdoor elements will quickly de-laminate, splinter, and break down. FRAMING A DOOR Whether purchasing an interior or exterior door, most are marketed as “pre-hung;” a single unit complete with frame. Hinges are usually already installed on the door; the door already attached to a frame. Pre-hung interior doors usually arrive from the factory with double-headed nails driven through the frame and slightly into the edge of the door. This is to hold everything in place during shipping. The nails should be removed before installing the door. Exterior doors, on the other hand, come with a retaining bracket. This should be left in place until installation is nearly complete. While height is fairly standard, doors do come in a variety of widths. The opening should be prepared and framed in such a manner that whatever width door you have chosen will fit into the opening with minimal shim requirement. Standard pre-hung doors have 4½ -inch jambs for use with 2x4 framing and ½-inch wallboard. If your walls are thicker, you will need to special order doors to fit. Or else fur the door jamb out flush with the wallboard using jamb extensions, or furring strips. Whether installing a door in a partition wall (non-load bearing) or in an exterior (load bearing) wall, the principle is the same. The rough opening is framed using a king and jack stud on each side, with a header and cripple studs above. Working out from the door, the door jamb will be shimmed and nailed to the jack studs on either side. The jack studs will hold up the header. The king studs run along side the jack studs, from bottom plate to top plate. The header bears all of the weight of the structure that is directly over the door. The load is transferred to the header by short cripple studs between the header and the top plate; jack studs transfer the weight down to the bottom plate. Measure Accurately



The rough opening after framing needs to be the width of the door and frame (the frame is also referred to as the door jamb), allowing an extra ½-inch on each side and above the door. Also keep in mind that 2x4 studs are not 2x4-inches in measurement. They are actually closer to 3 ½-inches by 1 ¾-inches; this can vary slightly due to shrinkage. For accuracy, mark the width of the door at the desired position on the sill plate, plus the additional ½-inch on each side. Mark the width of your jack studs (measure the actual studs you plan to use), and then do the same for the king studs. For example: for a 4-foot pre-hung door (measured from the outside jamb on one side to outside of the jamb on the other side) you will add 1-inch (1/2-inch for each side), plus 3 ½-inches for the thickness of the two jack studs (1 ¾-inches each; but be sure and use the actual measurement for the studs you will be using), plus 3 ½-inches for the thickness of the two king studs; 1¾-inches per side. But again, use actual measurements. The first set of marks should be 4-feet apart, the next set should be 4-feet, 1-inch apart; the next set should be 4-feet, 4 ½-inches apart. The final marks should be 4-feet, 8-inches apart. Any framing studs located in the area included in the rough opening will need to be cut, and the bottom portion removed. You will need to allow for the height of the door plus ½-inch, plus the size of the header. For example, if you are using 2x6s for a header, you would need to include the 6-inch measurement (door height, plus ½-inch, plus 6-inches). Since you will be removing the bottom plate and the door threshold will be sitting on the floor, you must measure from the floor to the cutting mark on the framing studs. Make sure that your line is plumb and square across the studs you will be cutting. What remains will become cripple studs between the header and top plate. Beginning with the widest measurements, nail the king studs into place; running from bottom plate to top plate, flush with the out side marks. Make sure each is plumb before nailing. The jack studs must be cut to the proper length. Since they will sit on the bottom plate, you will need to allow for the thickness of the plate, as well. The length of the jack studs will be the height of the pre-hung door set; to the top of the jamb, plus ½-inch, minus the thickness of the bottom plate. Nail the jack studs to the inside of the king studs. SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS – BALLOON FRAMING Almost all modern construction utilizes platform framing. However, older structures may have been constructed with balloon style framing, commonly used during the 1930s and 1940s. When adding exterior door framing for a rough opening in balloon framing, follow this procedure:



• Remove interior walls to expose framing. Select two studs to use as king studs. The distance between the selected king studs must be at least 3-inches wider than the required rough opening. Measure from the floor; mark the rough opening height on the selected king studs.

• Determine the size header required. Using the marks on the king studs, measure

up; mark the top of the header on the king studs, and on any studs in between.

• Cut open the subfloor and remove fire blocking with a reciprocating saw to gain access to the sill plate for installing jack studs. If more than one wall stud is removed, you will need to make temporary supports (see “Making Temporary Supports” for balloon framing, found in Chapter 1, page 31).

• Cut the intermediate studs on the top header markings using a circular saw, but

leave the king studs intact. Make additional cuts approximately 3-inches below the first cut, and 6-inches above the floor. Finish the cuts using a handsaw. Knock out the 3-inch sections with a hammer; remove studs with a pry bar.

• Cut jack studs to fit from the sill plate to the rough opening marks on the king

studs, and then nail them in place to the king studs. Use10d nails spaced every 12 inches.

• Install the header on top of the jack studs. Nail it to jack studs, king studs, and

cripples using 10d nails.

• Mark the rough opening width measurement on the header; use a plumb bob to mark the opening width on the sill.

• Install additional jack studs if necessary in order to frame the proper rough

opening size. Toenail the jack studs to the header and sill plate.

• Install blocking between the primary jack studs and additional jack studs on each side of the opening using 10d nails. Make sure to install blocking at the location points of hinges and locksets.

• When you are ready to install the door, remove exterior wall surfaces. Cut the

remaining ends of intermediate studs flush with the tops of the floor joists using a handsaw or reciprocating saw.

• Install 2X4 nailing blocks next to the jack studs and joists, flush with the tops of

the floor joists. Replace fire blocking.

• Install plywood over the joists and blocks to make a level surface for the door threshold.



ADDING THE HEADER When it comes to door framing for a non-load-bearing wall, standard 2x4 framing studs are adequate as a header. When framing in a load-bearing wall, however, special consideration must be given to proper header size. The width of the rough opening will determine the minimum header size for that width. Headers can be obtained in the various sizes made from engineered beams, (constructed by laminating layers of wood together into a beam). Or they can be made by gluing and screwing framing lumber together with ½ inch plywood set between, using two 2x4s, 2x6s, etc. The piece of plywood is cut to the same size as the lumber. Width requirements are:

• Up to 3 feet – 2x4 • 3 to 4 feet – 2x6 • 4 to 6 feet – 2x8 • 6 to 7 feet – 2x10 • 7 to 8 feet – 2x12 • 8 to 12 feet will require special engineered wood header beams

The header should be cut to fit between the king-studs, resting on top of the jack studs. Nail through the outside of the king studs into the ends of the header using 10d nails. And then nail the jack studs and cripple studs to the header. Using a reciprocating saw, cut the bottom plate flush with the inside edge of the jack studs, and remove it. The rough opening is now ready to receive the door. INSTALLING INTERIOR DOORS Follow these simple instructions for installation of interior doors:

• Set the door into the opening so that it is centered and flush with wall surfaces.

Using a level, adjust the hinge side so that it is plumb.

• Starting near the top hinge, slide shims into the gap from both sides of the door until it is snug. Make sure that it remains plumb, while shimmed by every hinge.

• Using 8d casing nails secure the hinge side of the door, driving the nails at the

location of the shims.

• Repeat this process for the other side of the door; inserting shims from both sides of the door between the top jamb and latch side jamb and framing. Align them with the shims on the hinge side. Adjust them so the reveal is 1/8-inch wide, or slightly less.

• Drive nails through the jamb at the shims, into the framing. Set all nails below the

surface of the jamb with a nail set.



• Trim the shims flush with the wall surface using a hand saw. The door is now ready to trim with door casing. INSTALLING EXTERIOR DOORS The installation process for exterior doors is similar to interior door installation, but with some variations. Exterior doors in their framing can weigh several hundred pounds, so make sure you have help with installation. Pre-hung exterior doors come with brick mold. You will need to test fit the door by setting it in the opening and shimming it until it is plumb. Then do the following:

1. Trace an outline around the brick mold onto the siding. Remove the door, and trim the siding using the outline. Be careful to cut just through the siding, and not into the sheathing. Be careful around corners; use a sharp wood chisel to finish the cut.

2. Slide 8-inch wide strips of building paper between the siding and sheathing at the

sides and top of the opening. Wrap the building paper around framing members, and staple in place. This acts as a moisture shield for the framing. Note: for extra moisture protection, cut a piece of drip edge to fit the top of the opening. Simply slide it between the siding and building paper; do not nail.

Apply several thick beads of silicone caulk to the subfloor on the bottom of the opening. Also apply caulk to the front outside edges of the building paper on the framing, both at the top and sides of the opening. Center the door in the opening, with the brick mold on the exterior side. Make sure it is pushed up snug to the sheathing. Insert shims into the space between the jamb and framing from the inside of the door at the hinges and lockset, spaced about 12-inches apart all around the jamb. Make sure the door remains centered and plumb. Remove two screws out of the top hinge plate on the door jamb. Replace them with longer anchor screws (usually included with door set) to reinforce anchoring to the frame. Drive 10d galvanized casing nails through the front of the brick mold into the framing. Space them about 12-inches apart. Use a nail set to drive nails below the surface of the brick mold. If necessary, adjust shims, whiling making sure the door remains plumb. Fill the gap between the door jamb and framing with loose fiberglass insulation.



From the out side, drive 10d galvanized casing nails into the jamb (at the shims) and into the framing. It might be a good idea to drill pilot holes to avoid splitting the jamb wood. Set nails below surface using a nail set. Remove the retaining brackets installed by manufacturer; check the door to make sure it operates correctly. Being careful not to strip the screws, adjust the threshold to make a tight seal along the bottom of the door. Trim the shims flush with framing members using a handsaw or framing knife. Apply paintable silicone caulk around the entire door unit. Install the lockset and finish the door according to the manufacturer instructions. Install casing around the inside of the door. REMOVING A DOOR If you only want to remove the door for repairs or refinishing, just carefully pry the pins out of the hinges and remove the door. But permanent removal of a door is a little more complicated. To remove a door, closing the rough opening to revert the space back to a wall, the process is similar to framing the door - only in reverse; with a shortcut or two. Note: in most cases, doors, casing, brick molding, and jambs can be re-used if care is taken not to damage them during removal. To remove a door:

1. Start with the casing on the interior side of the door. Carefully pry it loose with a pry bar, being careful not to damage the casing.

2. Trim away caulking from around the brick molding on the exterior side with a

utility knife. Carefully remove the brick molding with a pry bar. Remove the door and hinges from the door jamb.

3. Carefully pry the jambs out of the frame, and remove the threshold. If you

encounter stubborn nails while prying casing, brick molding, or door jambs, cut them with a reciprocating saw. At this point, you can either close off the doorway, or install a different door.

If closing off the doorway, once you are back down to the frame add the bottom plate between the jack studs. Add cripple studs between the bottom plate and the header; spaced 16-inches on center for continuity.



Mending the Exterior On the exterior side, the siding around the door will need to be replaced; the rough opening will need to be filled in with sheathing. Building paper should go over the sheathing before siding is replaced. Note: a much larger area than the rough opening will need to be taken off and repositioned to allow for proper spacing of seams on the siding. Mending the Interior Once the door has been installed, insulation will need to be installed in the framing, and the frame walls covered with wallboard. Refer to installation directions located in Chapter 9, page 102. Tape seams; allow taping compound to dry, and then sand. The wall is now ready for texture or paint, or any other type wall covering of your choice.

INSULATING One aspect of home renovation/remodeling sometimes overlooked is insulation; new insulation as well as upkeep of old. Proper insulation plays a vital role in helping to efficiently maintain a comfortable, conditioned temperature inside the house. It also helps cuts down on noise coming from outside the home as well as other areas of the house. Reducing distractions and making the home seem more comfortable and relaxing. Poor insulation produces uncomfortable, fluctuating indoor temperatures, and also increases utility costs. In fact, insulation so affects energy usage that replacing improper insulation with the correct type and amount of insulation can reduce energy bills by as much as 50-percent! While in more recent years much attention has been given to proper insulation during house construction, many dwellings built before the 1970s remain under-insulated. Check local building codes as to minimum insulation requirements for each area of your home. Levels vary from state to state, depending on climate conditions. Determining Insulation Needs Depending upon where you reside, there are “rules of thumb” to consider when insulating a dwelling; as well as different insulation needs of specific areas of that dwelling. Proper insulation of attics, walls, and floors are key factors. When selecting insulation, judge by its R-value, not its thickness. Insulation’s R-value is rated according to its ability to resist heat flow per inch-thickness of the insulation. You need to calculate the R-rating times the thickness of the insulation for proper selection. Cold climates will require insulation with a higher R-value rating than milder climates. Good options for attic insulation might be 13-inch thick batts or blankets with an R-3.8 rating per inch; or 17-inches of (blown) loose fiberglass with a rating of at least 2.9 per



inch. While loose-fill provides better coverage than batts without allowing heat loss through framing, that type installation will require a contractor. Other factors such as initial expense and cost of insulation grade verses cost of energy in a particular area should also be considered when deciding which grade of insulation will be the most economical choice in the long run. Note: R-value measures the thermal resistance to heat flow through the material. Therefore, In homes where air leakage is the main problem and heat is lost through convection – other renovation measures should be taken in addition to insulation efforts to fortify the home. Especially since air leakage can account for as much as 40-percent of the total energy lost by a home. Some utility providers offer free or low-cost energy audits to determine how energy-efficient your home is. And if there is notable energy loss, the main source of the problem is highlighted; poor insulation or convection. Insulation considerations:

• Ventilation plays an important role in providing moisture control and reducing

summer cooling bills.

• Single-level homes have different insulation needs than multi-level.

• Ceiling height can affect insulation needs. As well as main type of energy used; electrical, gas, or propane.

• Make sure attic vents are installed along the entire ceiling cavity. This will help

ensure proper airflow from the soffit to the attic; making your home more energy efficient, and the internal climate more comfortable.

• Proper attic insulation can save you money and make your home more

comfortable year round.

• Recessed light fixtures can increase heat loss.

• Always wear the proper protective gear when installing insulation; including gloves, mask, and safety goggles.

Although installing insulation can run into a considerable amount of money, you may find it well worth the investment. Proper insulation can eliminate hot/cold spots in your home, omit drafts, control moisture problems, and improve indoor air quality (IAQ). It can also pay for itself in monthly energy cost savings. DUCTWORK



Ducts running through an unfinished or partially finished basement that gets even just occasional use should be insulated to keep the area warmer. Duct insulation is available in 1 and 2-inch thicknesses. If your ducts are rectangular opt for the thicker of the two. This can help cut heat losses down by one-third more than the 1-inch. Insulating the ducts will increase the temperature of air at registers. Therefore, if your ducts don’t already have dampers, add some before insulating them. And then fine-tune the air system for more uniform heat/cool air distribution throughout the various areas of your home. Ducts between joists can be wrapped with cut blankets stapled to the floor. Joints can be sealed using duct tape. Insulation can be wrapped around all sides of other ducts and sealed with tape; leaving the vapor barrier on the outside. Extend the insulation beyond the end of ducts, and then cut an insert with a facing flap. Fold the flap and tape it, package style. PIPES Besides insulating pipes in cold climate areas to protect them against freezing, wrapping exposed cold water lines prevents them from sweating and collecting moisture in warmer climates and months. This won’t help conserve energy. But it will prevent drippings and condensation that can cause spots or water damage. Wrapping both hot and cold water pipes will help to conserve energy. In fact, when contractors compute heating and cooling load needs, they tack on an additional 10 to 20-percent to cover calculated losses associated with inadequately insulated ductwork and pipes. Types of Pipe Insulation You have a choice when it comes to pipe insulation type. If you select spongy adhesive-backed insulating tape, make sure and wind the tape around pipes with one layer overlapping the other by about ½-inch. Flexible foam, slit-sleeve insulation will protect the pipe with a thick jacket. This type insulation is quick and easy to apply. It is also a great choice for longer pipe runs and as additional insulation over adhesive-backed tape for extra cold winter months. Cut the insulation using a hacksaw or utility knife; use short lengths to fill spaces at pipe ends and corners. At pipe junctions, wrap uncovered areas with spongy insulation tape; peel off the backing and wrap several layers. Other types of pipe insulation to consider include:



• Self-sealing fiberglass insulation. It comes with or without an “all-service jacket,” in various thicknesses – ½-inch to 4-inches. Molded and heavy density, it is used primarily by commercial and institutional buildings.

• Sponge felt insulation comes in straight blocks, as well as preformed shapes for

valves and fittings.

• Wool felt is available in thicknesses of ½-inch to 1-inch. It comes with a canvas jacket, and is formed using matted fibers of wool, fur, or hairs that have been pressure rolled. Wool felt is useful for both cold water service and hot water pipes.

• Cork pipe covering is comprised of compressed and molded bark from cork trees.

It comes with a coating of plastic asphalt. This makes a good choice for all kinds of cold waterlines and low-temperature range pipes.

• Heating Tape.

A Word about Heating Tape Heating tape is a great way to insulate water pipes in areas where winter temperatures are extreme. It consists of plastic coated wire to wrap around pipes, and is plugged into an electrical outlet to keep pipes from freezing. Also known as “heat cable,” heating tape is relatively easy to install. Different types of heating tape have distinct requirements; read and follow instructions carefully, and take necessary precautions. Also make sure to plug the tape into a properly functioning ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI), to protect against electrical shock. WALLS There is more than one reason to insulate the walls of a structure. The primary reason is to help retain cool in the summer and heat in the winter. Insulation also helps with soundproofing a room; to reduce or eliminate annoying sound from being transmitted from one room to the next. The insulating factor of any given type of insulation is measured by the R-value; the thicker the insulation material, the higher the R-value. Fiberglass batt insulation for 2X4 walls come in R-11, R-13, and R-15 values. There are numerous ways to insulate a wall for either purpose – to retain temperature or for soundproofing. The most common types of thermal insulation include fiberglass batt insulation, polystyrene foam insulation board, blow-in cellulose, and spray-on foam. Note: installing fiberglass batt insulation or foam insulation board are the two most DIY-friendly types of insulation for a homeowner to install.



Blow-in cellulose continues to be an alternative for retro-fitting insulation; it is blown into existing wall spaces, usually by an insulation contractor. One drawback is that it settles over time, leaving wall spaces near the ceiling un-insulated. Spray-on insulation might be a good choice for large buildings, and is applied using a spray-on process. It expands as it is applied to unfinished walls between the framing studs, and sets rigid. Polystyrene foam insulation board may be the only workable choice for shallow wall cavities that have been furred out with 1X2s or 2X2s, such as in a basement with concrete walls. This material comes in thicknesses of ½-inch to 2-inches, with R-values of 3 to 10. It comes either pre-cut to fit standard stud spacing, or in 4X8-foot sheets that are scored to break at standard widths. Drawbacks include the fact that most stud spacing varies, so using the pre-cut or pre scored pieces will not always fit properly. This can reduce the R-factor by resulting air leakage. In addition, panels must be glued into place with foam-compatible adhesive, such as PL Premium or PL 300. Other adhesives can dissolve the foam. However, there are advantages to this type insulation. Which include easy cutting, no fiberglass particles in the air, and it stays in place when glued. Fiberglass batt insulation is by far the most widely used. Since it is installed between the framing studs, it must be installed before walls are finished off. Handling fiberglass insulation causes small particles to become airborne, getting on you and your clothing. Therefore, a face mask, eye protection, and gloves are a must. Fiberglass particles are hazardous to breathe, and cause irritation when they get under clothing. In addition to the assorted thicknesses and R-factors, fiberglass batts come either faced or un-faced. Faced fiberglass insulation has a paper lining on one side with just enough extra width than the fiberglass to allow it to be stapled to the framing studs on either side. This ensures a snug fiberglass fit between the studs underneath. The paper face is porous and does not make a vapor barrier. Since framing studs are hidden by the paper, however, hanging drywall is made more difficult. Un-faced batts are simply pressed firmly into place between each stud. Fiberglass Batt Installation Fiberglass batts come in a standard 96-inch length, and fit perfectly into standard 8-foot walls. Taller or shorter walls require that batts be trimmed and pieced together. Cut to fit; sandwich pieces in between two 2X4s and then compress them into place. Either style batt will require trimming to allow for outlets or other elements in the wall. Be sure to trim in such a manner that the insulation will fit snugly around fixtures. In



places where wires or pipes run through the framing, simply split the thickness of the batt so that ½ of the thickness rests on each side of the wire or pipe. Stuff small pieces of insulation into nooks and crannies; such as around door or window jambs. Be sure not to over-stuff. Doing this could force the door jamb or window out of plumb. Installing a Vapor Barrier Installing 4-mil clear plastic over the insulation will create a vapor barrier. This prevents warm moist inside air from penetrating the wall, and forming condensation between the insulation and outside wall. Condensation such as this can promote a mold or mildew problem within the wall. This type plastic is readily available at building supply centers. It comes in various widths, and up to 100-foot lengths. Once insulation is installed, simply roll out the plastic and staple it to the top plate around the perimeter of the room. A swing stapler, (also called a hammer tacker) works best. Working from the top down, smooth the sheet into place and staple it to the studs. Cut out door and window locations, and then tack around them as well. Finally, cut an X over outlets and other fixtures. This helps to simplify wallboard installation. Helpful Insulation Tips for Whirlpool Baths When insulating whirlpools, staple insulation batts to the vertical frame supports inside the base/foundation. Affix the insulation so that the paper side is facing inward. This will help keep fibers out of the motor. Note: do not insulate within 6-inches of the pump, heater, or lights. Soundproofing (See the soundproofing section found in Chapter 9, page 111.)

INSTALLATIONS – GARBAGE DISPOSALS First patented in 1927, by 1948 General Electric was mass producing and marketing electric garbage disposals. Since that time they have remained a popular kitchen accessory; adding convenience to mealtime preparation and cleanup tasks in households in those localities that do allow them. Disposals help reduce urban and landfill waste. And the amount of garbage collected and disposed of by city services. However, they also increase the maintenance costs of municipal wastewater treatment plants, which is why some localities ban their use. Before installing a garbage disposal in your kitchen, check local building codes to make sure they are allowed in your area. Also check what type requirements may be in place for their set up. For instance, most codes specify that the disposal must be plugged into a grounded unit, and that they are controlled by an on and off switch.



Types of Disposals Garbage disposals are one of two types; either batch-fed or continuous feed. A batch-fed disposal runs only when the drain lid is in place; they are operated by turning a special stopper after the disposal receptacle has been loaded with food debris. Because this type disposal can only be activated while the cavity is covered by the inserted stopper, these type disposals represent a safer choice. Continuous feed models are activated by a switch that allows you to add waste while the motor is turned on. Running water helps to flush food scraps down the disposal as they are added. The motor continues to run until the switch is turned off. Both types of disposals attach to the sink drain system. The switch should be located on the wall to back of the sink, as far from the edge of the counter as possible; or in an out of the way place for safety purposes. Switch location is an important consideration; especially in households with small children. The Installation process A new dedicated 20 amp circuit should be installed under the sink in close proximity to power the new garbage disposal. Although switches and outlets should be installed by an electrician, installing the garbage disposal itself isn’t all that difficult for the resourceful homeowner with some plumbing knowledge. Installation is relatively uncomplicated. Requiring the use of silicone caulk or plumber’s putty, mineral spirits, and only the most basic of tools to accomplish the task; both flat-tip and Phillips-head screwdrivers, a utility knife, hose clamps, pipe wrench, slip nuts, beveled washers, and a flashlight. Before installation, make sure that the dedicated circuit for the disposal is turned off at the circuit box. Do this by either turning off the breaker or removing the fuse. Now you are ready to begin the installation process; follow these simple steps:

• Remove the existing drainpipe and p-trap using the pipe wrench; place a bucket or

another container underneath to catch any water remaining in the drainpipe.

• Remove the strainer body from the sink by unscrewing the large nut that holds it in place under the sink. Be sure to scrape off any old putty from around the sink opening, and then clean the opening completely using denatured alcohol or mineral spirits.

• Apply a bead of silicone caulk or plumber’s putty under the edge of the drain

opening sleeve. Insert the sleeve into the drain opening; press down evenly to ensure a good seal.



• Working underneath the sink, place the fiber gasket and backup ring onto the sleeve. Attach the lower mounting ring onto the sleeve and put the snap ring in place.

• Position the disposer against the lower mounting ring; line the lugs up with the

mounting screws, and then tighten the screws. Be sure and alternate tightening each screw so the mounting bracket is evenly seated against the bottom of the sink.

• Remove the bottom plate on the disposer to expose the wiring. Position the

garbage disposal under the sink; connect wires from the garbage disposal to the wires from the power source with wire nuts; white to white, and black to black.

• Connect the green ground wire from the disposal to the green ground wire on the

power source; replace the disposer’s bottom plate to cover the wires.

• Fasten the discharge tube to the discharge opening with the mounting washer.

• If a dishwasher will be attached to the disposal, remove the knockout plug from the dishwasher opening. Carefully tap it out using a screw driver and hammer; attach the dishwasher drain hose with a hose clamp.

• Attach the drainpipe to the discharge tube and gasket using a slip nut and beveled

washer. If the discharge tube is too long, cut it to fit. If it is too short, purchase an extension piece. Make sure the washer faces the threaded drainpipe.

• Secure the disposal by inserting a screwdriver into the mounting lug located on

the lower mounting ring. Tighten the mounting lug screw. Once installation is complete, test the unit out and check for any leaks. SINKS – SELF-RIMMING AND RECESSED Whether installing a bathroom sink or a kitchen sink, the procedure is basically the same. There are three basic types of counter sinks used in bathrooms and kitchens:

• Self-rimming drop-in sinks with clamps. This type sink is very common in

stainless steel double sink or single sink models for kitchen use, and porcelain or stainless steel for bathroom use. Self-rimming drop-in sinks feature a “rim” or lip around the perimeter. They drop into a pre-cut hole in the counter top so that the rim rests directly on the counter top, and are fastened in place using special clamps below. Caulking is applied around the rim to provide a water seal; or plumber’s putty is used under the rim.



• Self-rimming drop-in sinks without clamps. This type sink is simply dropped into the opening so that the rim rests on the counter top; clamping underneath is not necessary. Usually porcelain or ceramic, they are held in place with a bead of caulking around the rim. This holds it to the counter top and provides a water seal.

• Recessed or undermount sinks. This type sink rests on a plywood base under the

counter top level, creating a seamless flow. It is popular for ceramic tile, natural stone, or other solid type material countertop, but should not be used with those made from laminate. This is because of inevitable “bubbling” that will happen due to condensation that has seeped underneath. Ceramic/porcelain or cast iron is favored over stainless steel; due largely to the difference in expansion and contraction properties. In some cases, double-walled stainless steel is acceptable.

Before you Begin The first step in any sink removal/installation is shutting off the water supply. If the water supply lines under the sink do not have shut-off valves on them, now is a good time to have some installed. Reasonably priced, high-quality flexible vinyl hose kits are available in most hardware or building supply centers. Be sure to size fittings accurately for both the supply lines and faucet fixtures. Installing shut-off valves in supply lines will make future sink installation and maintenance easier and handier. It will also provide quick access for emergency shut-off. Sink Replacement – Same Size as Old If you are replacing an old sink with a new one into an existing counter top opening, you will need to install one that is the exact same size as the old. After removing the old sink, check the counter top for any water damage and rot. If any is detected, make necessary repairs. If the extent of damage warrants it, replace the old counter top with a new one. Follow these steps for installing the sink:

1. Use denatured alcohol or mineral sprits and a clean rag to cleanse the counter top around the opening. Also clean the underside of the new sink’s rim to prepare it for caulk or plumber’s putty.

2. To install the new sink, simply drop it into the opening; make sure it fits with no

gaps. For clamping sinks, apply a thin ¼-inch bead of plumber’s putty or caulk under the rim around the opening to provide a water seal. Once the sink is aligned and clamped firmly into place, clean off excess caulk or putty with the rag.

3. Install the faucet and connect the supply lines. Connect drains, using a ¼-inch

bead of plumber’s putty beneath the rim of the drain assembly; press it into the



opening. Screw the tightening rim on the assembly from underneath, and tighten with a wrench. Attach and tighten drain fittings.

4. Check supply lines and drain pipes for leakage. Monitor closely until you are

sure there are no leaks. Even a slow drip left unattended will wreck havoc under your sink cabinet.

Installing a Sink in a Countertop for the First Time If you are installing a sink for the first time into the counter top, it is necessary to take careful measurements for proper placement of the sink and opening. Be sure to leave at least 1 ½ inches, but not more than 3-inches from the edge of the counter. Once you are sure of placement, place the sink upside down on the counter top, and mark around the perimeter of the rim. Be sure that the edge of the rim is parallel to the edge of the counter top. Remove the sink, and mark a second line about 1½-inches inside the first mark. Note: if another measurement is specified in manufacturer’s instructions for any given sink, use that one instead. Since a jigsaw (reciprocating saber saw) is used to cut along the inside mark, you will need to drill a hole just inside of the inside line at each corner big enough to insert the saw blade. It is best to put masking tape on the bottom of the saw to avoid scratching or other damage to the counter top. Cut carefully, staying on the line. Do not allow the saw to wander off of the line. When the hole is finished, insert the sink, and check the fit. Make sure the sink is properly aligned. Self rimming sinks without clamps are dropped into the opening and caulked into place. Finish installation following the 4 steps previously listed. Recessed or undermount sinks are installed to the bottom side of the counter top before the counter top is installed. This type recessed sink/countertop arrangement is readily available in a variety of pre-manufactured kits; the sink and pre-cut counter top come ready to assemble. Some kits even come with the sink already installed. Caulk the edge of the sink, and put it into place. Screw it down using the hardware that came with the sink, following manufacturer guidelines. Once the sink is in place, the countertop installed and sink faucets attached and secured, follow previously listed steps 3 and 4 to connect supply lines and drain. WALL SWITCHES There are various types of wall switches for electrical power. For example: dimmer switches, combination switch/ receptacles, programmable switches, toggle-type easy to use universal designs for persons of all ages and physical ability. And motion or sound activated switches for on-demand power without lifting a finger.



The three types most often found in homes are single-pole, three-way, and four-way standard design switches. Each can be identified by the number of screw terminals it has; a single pole has two, a three-way has three, and a four-way has four. Newer switches may also have push fittings in addition to screw terminals. Before installing any type wall switch, turn off the power at your service panel, or the fuse or breaker box. If you are absolutely positive as to which fuse or breaker controls belong to the circuit you will be working on, remove that fuse or trip that breaker. Otherwise, remove the main fuse or trip the main breaker. Aside from the switch kits, tools required will include:

• Screwdriver • Knife or stripping wire • Insulating tape • Hand cleaner • Side-cutting pliers • Cable connectors

Below are directions for installing each of these three types of switches. Single-pole The most common type of switch of all, a single-pole switch usually has ON and OFF marks on the switch lever. It is used to break or feed electrical current to a set of lights, or an appliance or receptacle from one location. In addition to two brass terminal screws, most single-pole switches also have a grounding screw. Important installation points:

• A hot circuit wire will be attached to each screw terminal when correctly wired.

• If two cables enter the box, both hot wires attached to the switch will be black; the

switch will lie in the middle of the circuit. Neutral wires and grounding wires should be capped.

• If one cable enters the box, one hot wire will be black; the other will usually be

white. A white hot wire will not be plain; it will be coded with black tape or paint. This type insulation is sometimes referred to a “switch loop;” the switch will lie at the end of the circuit.

• When connecting a wire to the terminal screw, always turn the loop on the end of

the wire in the same direction as the screw threads. Otherwise, tightening the screw will loosen the loop.



Notes: white wires are generally attached to light-colored terminal screws, such as silver. Black wires are generally attached to dark colored screws, such as brass. If terminal screws are the same color, either wire can generally be attached to either terminal. Green terminal screws are used for grounding wires. Three-way Switches These type switches do not have On / OFF markings. They are always installed in pairs; used to control a set of lights from two different locations. Important installation points:

• One screw terminal will be darker than the others (a dark copper or brown); this

is the “common” screw terminal; location will vary according to the manufacturer.

• Two screw terminals will be lighter in color (usually brass); these are called

“traveler” terminals and are interchangeable.

• If installation is for a three-way switch in the middle of a circuit, the box should have two cables; one will be a 2-wire cable, the other a 3-wire cable. Connect the black (hot) wire from the 2-wire cable to the darker screw terminal; connect the red and black wires from the 3-wire cable to the two lighter screw terminals.

• When the installation is for a three-way switch at the end of a circuit, connect the

wires from the 3-wire cable; the white wire will be hot and should be coded with black tape or ink.

Four-way Switches These type switches have no On / OFF markings; they are always installed between a pair of three-way switches. This makes it possible to control the flow of electricity to a source from three or more locations. Four-way switches are commonly found in homes with large rooms and multiple living areas; for instance, where a kitchen opens into a dining room. Important installation point:

• The box should typically contain two 3-wire cables. With most switches, hot

wires from one cable should be attached to the bottom or top pair of screw terminals. Hot wires from the second cable should be attached to the remaining pair of screw terminals.

Not all switches are designed the same way, and some box configurations may also vary. For instance, some four-way stitches may have screw terminals that are marked “Line l” and “Line 2.” A pair of color-matched circuit wires will be connected to screw terminals for one line; another pair of color-matched circuit wires will be attached to the other.



Regardless what type wall switch you install, study the wiring diagram and directions that come with the switch carefully. Follow manufacturer’s guidelines to the “T.” Some switches even have a wiring guide stamped right on the back of the device. Note: working with electricity is tricky business and can represent a danger if not handled properly. Always use extreme caution when working with electricity. Your wisest choice may be to hire an experienced electrician for all electrical aspects of your remodeling and renovation projects.

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