home treatment for mild shell rot in turtles

11/15/2014 Home Treatment for Mild Shell Rot in Turtles

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Home Treatment for Mild Shell Rot in Turtles

WARNING: If your turtle has any signs of pus or sticky wet areas on the damaged shell, take theanimal to an experienced exotic animal veterinarian without delay. The same is true if large areas of theshell show effects of infection, or if you see reddened areas under the scutes. Advanced infections of

these types may require extensive debriding and antibiotic injections in order for the animal to survive. Itis not advisable to waste time on home treatment, as this is a life-and-death situation. Additionally,home treatment can make it more difficult for the veterinarian to determine the exact nature of the

pathogen, which can create problems in deciding which antibiotics will be most effective. If your turtleseems to have only small areas of mild shell rot, but is lethargic, not eating, has puffy eyes or any othersigns of illness along with the minor shell lesions, there is probably widespread infection of someunknown nature, and this should be treated by a veterinarian. If you have any doubt about the severityof the shell condition or overall health of the turtle, go to a veterinarian.

CAVEAT: While I have had excellent results using this treatment, I do not make any guarantees. Ifyour turtle's shell condition does not respond to treatment, consult a veterinarian.

Mild shell rot which can be expected to respond well to home treatment will have several

characteristics:

1. Only small areas will show effects of infection and the injury will not be deep; 2. The lesions will be dry with no evidence of draining pus or soft areas;

3. There is usually a whitish, crusty deposit in the pits or lesions, that looks likepart of the shell;

4. The turtle will be active, clear eyed, and eating well, displaying no other signsof illness.

This type of minor shell damage is common among wild semi-aquatic turtles. When the shell of an olderindividual is examined, one sees many small pits from old lesions. During times of cloudy, wet weather

and little sun, a variety of pathogens can take hold and damage the outer layer of the shell. When theturtle finally gets a chance to bask in the sun, the condition will usually clear up, leaving a small pit, but

otherwise causing no long-term harm. With captive animals, the problem can become long term,because of incorrect care. The few individuals with which I am familiar who had the lesions culturedhad evidence of bacterial infection, not fungal. But there are many different pathogens that could beassociated with these minor, shallow infections.

TREATMENT:

Step 1: Correct the cause of the problem. For turtles who live in captivity, poor conditions will causeshell rot. Dirty water, and lack of appropriate basking area and light are the most likely culprits. If your

turtle has developed shell rot in your care, the first step is to correct your husbandry. Extensiveinformation is available on correct care of a wide variety of species, on the internet and in books. Onceyou have corrected your turtle's housing, you may turn you attention to the shell condition.

Step 2: Clean the turtle's shell. Using a soft toothbrush and mild soap, clean off any dirt, algae anddamaged pieces of the outer layers of the scutes. After the bath, dry the turtle off as thoroughly aspossible. Gently peel off anything that will come off easily. Try to scrape out the white pits. If they do

not come out easily, leave them in place. Further treatment will loosen them up. The small white spotsoften come out easily when the turtle is completely dry, even if they stay stubbornly in place while wet.Scrape them with the edge of a clean, old credit card or some other plastic utensil. Do not use a knife.

The infected material needs to be removed so that the treatment can reach the tissue below it. Large



areas and deep infections should only be cleaned by an experienced veterinarian. Extensive debriding isincredibly painful for the animal and should be done under anesthesia.

Step 3: Disinfect the shell with a general antiseptic. In years past, antiseptics such as hydrogen peroxideor Betadine (povidone-iodine) or antibiotic ointments have been used. These will generally kill thepathogens successfully, however recent research indicates that these things actually slow the healingprocess by preventing the regrowth of the epithelial cells over the damaged area. The antiseptic of

choice is often Nolvasan (chlorhexidine) which is available from veterinary clinics (non-prescription),some pet stores and herp supply stores on the internet. Healing is noticably quicker with Nolvasan, so itis worth the effort to find some and use it. Nolvasan liquid solution is generally made with one partNolvasan, 100 parts water. (Read the directions on the bottle.) If you cannot find chlorhexidine,

povidone-iodine can be used successfully, even it it takes a little bit longer to heal completely. If thereare just a few discolored areas, swab those areas with the weak antiseptic solution. Reapply thesolution every ten minutes or so for about a half-hour. If there are a large number of tiny discolored

areas, it might work better to soak the turtle. If you choose to soak, make the liquid shallow enough forthe turtle to easily hold its head up out of the water, because any antiseptic, even Nolvasan, can causesome minor eye irritation. A follow-up application of silver sulfadiazine cream can be beneficial,however SSD cream is available by prescription only in the US.

Step 4: Air! Place the turtle in a dry container for at least 2 hours. Some turtles are not overly stressed

if left in the dry container overnight (in complete darkness), returning it to the aquarium for at least aportion of the day. Air is the enemy of shell rot pathogens, so it is important to keep the animal dry fora lengthy period of time. But dehydration and excessive stress must also be prevented. So the turtleMUST spend some time each day in water.

Continue to clean, disinfect and air dry the turtle each day for a 5 to 7 days. By that time, all the whitepits will have loosened and been removed. If not, continue treatment.You will need to remove all thewhitened material to get to the healthy shell underneath, so that it can heal and grow normally. If thereare discolored areas remaining after 2 weeks, consult a veterinarian.

When the turtle has been returned to the aquarium full time, it is vital that you maintain conditions thatwill prevent a recurrence. Keep the water clean. Provide a dry area with a warming light for basking.

Natural healing will continue until the damaged areas are filled in (or nearly) with new epithial cells.

For a filtration system that is easy to maintain and produces excellent quality water, visit this link: One

effective setup for aquatic turtles in small tanks

This Malayan box turtle (Cuora amboinensis)was turned over to a pet store when the owner

grew tired of it. An aquatic species, it had beenkept in dry conditions for an extended period oftime and had a flaking shell condition common tothat species. The flaking shell allowed bacteria tomove in under several damaged laminae. Whenthe animal was returned to an aquarium, thepathogens flourished and mild "dry shell rot" was

the result. Treated with the above method, thelarger white area loosened and fell out after 3days. Numerous other small pits cleared outafter one day. Complete healing (new epithelial



cells filling in the pits) took about six months.

This Asian leaf turtle (Cyclemys dentata) was alsoabandoned at a pet store, which subsequently turned itover to me for treatment. There were 2 crusty patches

on the plastron and numerous small ones on thecarapace. The white pits on the carapace were shallowand easily removeable, but the plastron pits were quitedeep. This is an ongoing case, and I expect it willrequire treatment for many months. There is no odor orpus, so I expect this turtle will respond well toconsistent treatment with Nolvasan and dry tanking. C.

dentata is an environmentally sensitive species thatprefers cool, very clean, slightly acidic water. Thisturtle's condition was likely caused by extensive timespent in dirty and/or alkaline conditions. In otherspecies, excessively cool, or excessively warm, watertemperatures can contribute to shell rot. Anotherfrequent causative factor is the lack of suitably warm

and dry basking facilities. It is important to know thespecific requirement of any species of turtle in yourcare, so that shell lesions can be prevented.

© 1998 Mary Hopson, Anchorage, AKThis information sheet may be freely copied and distributed.

For further information on shell infections:"Chelonians - Veterinary Practice and Husbandry" by Sharon Redrobe, DVM.

"Shell Rot Revisited" by Andy Highfield

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