homestead autumnby Barb Halvorson

Homestead AutumnBy Barb Halvorson

Palette: DecoArt Americana AcrylicsAlizarin Crimson #13179 Baby Blue #13042Black Forest Green #13083 Bright Orange #13228Bright Yellow # 13227 Brilliant Red #13145Burnt Sienna #13063 Lamp Black #13067Slate Grey #13068 Traditional Burnt Umber #13221Warm White #13239 Wedgewood Blue #13038Yellow Ochre #13008

Surface: Wooden Wall Pocket #62874

Misc. Supplies: DecoArt MultiPurpose Sealer #87392DecoArt Drying Time Extender #83131Palette Paper Pad #70560Large Sanding Pad Fine/ Medium #70796Foam Brush Set of 3-2” #70172Tack Cloth #70104Tracing Paper Roll #83175DecoArt DuraClear Vanish-Satin #87394Paper TowelsBlue Painter’s TapeGray Graphite Paper #70141JoSonja White Gesso #83101

Brushes: Papillon by the Artists Liner, size 0 #20146Shader, size 2 #20125; size 6 #20127; size 8 #20129; size 12 #20131Glaze Wash, size 1 #20103Comb, size1/4" #20152; size 1/2" #20153Round, size 1 #20157Artist Inspired BrushesMaxine Thomas Mop, size 1" #27178

Preparation: Sand the wood piece with a sanding pad lightly. Wipe away the dust with the tack cloth. Seal with DecoArt MultiPurpose Sealer. Basecoat the painting surface with two coats of Gesso; let each coat dry well. Sand the wood piece again. Transfer the pattern lines with Gray Graphite paper.Purple Mix: Wedgewood Blue + a touch of Alizarin Crimson. To lighten add a touch of Warm White.Please Note: I use DecoArt Drying Time Extender continuously to keep my colors wet. If I don’t specify when to use it just know that I use the wet on wet technique.1

Worksheet: I have prepared a colored worksheet for you. Please use it as a tool and keep it in front of you at all times.Please Note: Buildings can sometimes be hard to do and it is very easy to lose the shape of the structure. Older buildings are easier as you can say the door fell off or the window is hanging by the hinges etc. I have lots of those type of doors and windows. When doing older buildings, I like to take acetate and trace the pattern onto it with a fi ne-line black magic marker. This way if I lose the lines I can recheck them after I have painted the entire building. I can put the clear acetate over my painted surface to see if I have the correct dimensions. Another thing you can do is to outline the buildings with a darker color of paint before you start painting. For this scene you could outline with Lamp Black.

Painting Instructions:Sky: With a 1" Glaze Wash brush cover the entire sky with Drying Time Extender. This will keep the background moist so you can work the sky and streaks using the wet into wet technique. With the same brush, basecoat the sky with Baby Blue using horizontal strokes; leave a space in the center for the yellow and orange streaks. Wash the blue out of the brush or switch to a clean one and begin placing the orange and yellow streaks using Bright Orange and Bright Yellow plus Warm White simultaneously. Soften the orange and yellow areas into the edges of the Baby Blue. Do not worry if the sky turns a greenish blue color where it meets the blue. Soften with a mop brush or skim over very lightly with a clean Glaze Wash brush. Background Hills: Basecoat the hills with extender before starting to paint. Base both hills with a fl at brush beginning with the hill on the left. Mix a light blue using Baby Blue + just a touch of Burnt Sienna. This value should be darker than the sky, but not as dark as you will need for the hill on the right, since this is closer to you. Pat this in with the size 8 Shader brush using short, downward strokes (paint on the bottom of the brush) following the contour of the hill. The hill on the right is darker because it is closer to you so add a bit more Wedge-wood blue. Vary the mix as you go by adding just a tiny touch of Aliza-rin Crimson to give a soft lavender look. Be very careful with this color, Alizarin Crimson is very strong. While the hill is still wet add short grasses with the ½” Comb brush us-ing Warm White this will add grass texture. Add lighter strokes to the distant hill and darker strokes to the closer one. With the chisel edge of a size 6 Shader brush pat some up and down strokes to indicate distant

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pine trees. Use a darker mix by adding straight Wedgewood Blue. See the colored worksheet. Add a bit of sunlight to the hills after they are dry with Warm White + a touch of Bright Yel-low and Bright Orange. There is also just a tiny touch of Alizarin Crimson faded into the right hill along with some Burnt Sienna streaks. All these colors work to balance out the colors in the bottom half.

Detailed Pines Behind the House: Pine trees be-hind the house are Black Forest Green + a touch of Lamp Black, lightened with Warm White. Extend them over the pocket of the wood piece. First put in a straight vertical line and then pat side to side creating tree shapes. Notice I made some lighter trees left of the barn. Simply add Warm White to the mixture. The secret to pine trees is to start very small. I tell my students to make toothpicks and then gradually get larger. Notice the distant purple pines to the right side of the barn. Pat these in using the same tech-nique with the purple mix.

Buildings: (Red Barn) Basecoat the barn with Heritage Brick using the fl at brush with verti-cal strokes. While the paint is still wet pick up Warm White with a size 4 Shader brush (Brush needs to have a good chisel edge) and blend vertically as you go creating board lines. Take a liner brush and on the darker side create board lines with Traditional Burnt Umber. Don’t let your strokes go to the bottom. The cross boards and gable end of the building on the right side are put in with Traditional Burnt Umber + a touch of Lamp Black. Highlight with Warm White.

Base the rock foundation with Slate Grey on the left side and Yellow Ochre on the right. Touch in the rocks with irregular strokes using a small round brush. On the right side, rocks were put in with Warm White and on the left Slate Grey. Remember the surface needs to be wet. Put the windows and doors in with Lamp Black, add touches of Slate Grey vertically in the door to create interest. Add Warm White to the window at the top of the barn, and create pane lines.

Sheds: All the sheds are put in the same way

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and with the same color. Base the sheds in with Slate Grey, lighten with Warm White darken the shadowed sides with Lamp Black. Add streaks of Yellow Ochre and Traditional Burnt Umber. Place the windows and doors in with Lamp Black just as you did with the red barn. The barn directly to the right of the red barn is darker; add additional Lamp Black or Traditional Burnt Umber to shade. Add Warm White streaks with touches of Yellow Ochre and Slate Grey to lighten. Even add a touch of the purple mix if you want to here and there.

Roofs on the barn and sheds: All the roofs on the barn are done in the same manner. It is im-portant to watch the slant of the roof. With a fl at brush, basecoat the roofs with Warm White + a touch of Slate Grey. Add Yellow Ochre to the top of the barn and shed. Place barn lines on the roof with Slate Grey and highlight the line on the red barn with Yellow Ochre + Warm White. Make sure all the gable ends are lined with Lamp Black for the red barn and Traditional Burnt Umber for the lighter sheds.

Tree: The brown bare tree on the side of the red barn is put in with Traditional Burnt Umber us-ing a liner brush highlighted on the left side with Yellow Ochre. You may like to practice the tree on your palette paper fi rst. Remember to plant the pine tree located on the left shed with the same green tones as we used before.

Grass: Basecoat the grass with a size 8 Shader brush with Yellow Ochre. Grass strokes will be put on with a comb brush just like you did the hills. The grass directly underneath the build-ings is shadowed with Burnt Sienna and maybe just a touch of Traditional Burnt Umber. The lighter grasses are Bright Yellow and touches of Baby Blue.

Bushes: The bushes are tapped in just like the others except this time use a smaller worn out fl at brush. Notice the Burnt Sienna bushes are creating small banks along the creek. Watch the contour of the banks.

Rocks: These rocks are small and are very easy to do. Easier than most rocks. Base them in

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with Traditional Burnt Umber, highlight on the top and some of the sides with Slate Grey. Make sure not all the rocks are the same size. Use the size 4 Shader brush.

Water: Water refl ects everything that is above it. Wet the entire water area with extender before you begin. Take the size 8 Shader brush and start layering in colors with short downward strokes. The darkest areas are along the banks and lightest area is in the center. Add Wedgewood Blue +

touches of Burnt Sienna, Baby Blue, Reds and Yellows from the foliage. Follow the photo for highlights and shadows. Refl ect the buildings into the water. Add as much details as you want. With a clean size 1" Maxine Thomas Mop very lightly skim over the water. It is easy to mop out the refl ec-tions so be very careful. Set waterlines in by having very little paint on the bottom of the brush and gently setting them in using Slate Grey. Work into small groupings or clusters and try not to make the waterlines the same shape or size.

Finishing: Remove any graphite lines. Finish the project with several coats of DecoArt Dura Clear Satin Varnish.

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Pattern at 100%

1” x 1”

To ensure your pattern is at 100%, this box should measure 1” x 1” when printed.

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Copyright 2016 by Barb Halvorson and Crafts Americana Group, Inc. All Rights Reserved. #332016

No. *A332016*© Artist’s Club ®. All rights reserved. For private, non-commercial use only. Please see our web site for terms of use.