&HONEYCOMBS

WHISKERSFADES

DEEP WITHIN THE €40 BILLION JUNGLE THAT WE CALL THE DENIM INDUSTRY LIES A COMMUNITY THAT STANDS SEPARATE FROM THE UNIFORM OF THE AVERAGE JOE, COMPLETE WITH ITS OWN TERMINOLOGY AND ATTITUDE. RAW DENIM ISN’T JUST A PAIR OF JEANS: IT’S A CULTURE BASED ON DISCIPLINE,

ELITISM AND AN OBSESSION WITH DETAILS.

text and photography by Yoeri Khyrian Jonker

&HONEYCOMBS

WHISKERSFADES

DEEP WITHIN THE €40 BILLION JUNGLE THAT WE CALL THE DENIM INDUSTRY LIES A COMMUNITY THAT STANDS SEPARATE FROM THE UNIFORM OF THE AVERAGE JOE, COMPLETE WITH ITS OWN TERMINOLOGY AND ATTITUDE. RAW DENIM ISN’T JUST A PAIR OF JEANS: IT’S A CULTURE BASED ON DISCIPLINE,

ELITISM AND AN OBSESSION WITH DETAILS.

text and photography by Yoeri Khyrian Jonker

It’s something that was poignantly portrayed in Denham’s latest campaign, Denham Psycho. In this satirical adaptation of Bret Easton Ellis’ American Psycho we’re introduced to Patrick Biteman, a hipster version of Ellis’ main character in the movie, who sits around the table with his fellow co-workers braggadociously comparing their jeans to see who has the best quality and cut. When Biteman sees Jean Paul’s jeans, which are made from the highest quality of Otaku Virgin raw denim, his obsession leads to killing Jean Paul with an axe. There is a clear connection between the Wall Street yuppies in the 90ies, who were obsessed with finest suits, their hair and business card, and the hipster culture of today that has taken this same attitude towards denim, beards and everything-before-it-was-cool. While it’s safe to say that no one will actually axe you for your jeans any time soon, there is a truth hidden within all the absurdity. Amongst the raw denim community is an obsession with perfectly fitting jeans. Some denim aficionados would even go as far as wearing the same pair of jeans every day for three years just to get the perfect fades that give it that semi-vintage look. But what makes raw denim so special? And why are people so obsessed with raw denim?

Yorrick Boots, a denim aficionado and proud owner of two raw denim APC jeans and currently on the hunt for a Momotaro, thinks the answer lies in the place jeans have in society and men’s fashion.“I think that because menswear is more traditional and jeans are embedded in every man’s closet raw denim actually makes a difference. You customize it to the point where you have a product that no one has, because it holds your story.”Another part of what Boots believes makes raw denim so special is that there’s such a tight on- and offline community. “Especially when you have these kind of interests it’s inspiring to see how others customize their jeans. When you walk on the street other people who wear raw denim will approach you and actually start a conversation about your jeans.”

While Yorrick has some experience with raw denim after wearing in two jeans, he does admit that sometimes one of these little projects can still fail without doing anything wrong. Getting to that vintage look is a long process with subtle changes that won’t happen overnight. His second pair for instance, an APC Petit Standard, now shows creases on the place where he normally keeps his phone. “I love pocket fades. However, the ones that are now imprinted in my Petit Standard’s aren’t in balance with the rest, which is why I’ll make sure to put my phone in my jacket and hope that the whiskers that’ll appear in half a year will balance everything out.”It’s this unpredictable aspect of raw denim that creates this obsession with getting the perfect fit and fades. The time spent on wearing them are an investment in the future, but make one mistake and you might lose it all. So why would someone even consider buying such a demanding product if you could simply buy something that looks vintage in the stores?

Despite the fact that sandblasted and stonewashed jeans will never reach the level of authenticity that you get from the commitment to a pair of raw denim jeans, there’s also other aspects that make the patience and discipline worth your while. As mentioned before raw denim acts like a canvas capturing your personal story, but there is also a sense of achievement that comes with reaching the finish line and having that perfect pair of jeans to show for it. It wouldn’t stretch reality to say, like all elite clubs, raw denim wearers are conscious of their superior status in the trouser-wearing world. They can’t help but be ambiguous about the mystical process that led to their privileged position of top-tier jeans wearer.Another perk of wearing raw denim jeans is that by the end of the road, when you created this vintage look due to years of intensive use, there are brands

that are willing to compensate you for those jeans. Tenue de Nimes has occasionally talked to customers that walked into the store with their raw treasures and offered to buy their jeans to display in their store. APC also has a policy that if you bring your broken-in jeans to the store you can get 50% off on your next purchase. While many would argue whether three years of wearing the same pair of jeans, an art project that tells three years of your life story, equivalents €75 there are people who have done it. And if you think about it, you actually got to enjoy a pair of jeans for 3 years and get a 50% discount for it in return to buy another pair.

While the culture and community behind raw denim might seem hedonistic and obsessive at times, it’s the perfect example of how denim is conceived as more than just a pair of jeans. Some might take them for granted and see them as the most standard and least exciting clothing item in their wardrobe, others see it as a project. For those people raw denim is a companion, living together with you for three years and going everywhere you go.

It’s something that was poignantly portrayed in Denham’s latest campaign, Denham Psycho. In this satirical adaptation of Bret Easton Ellis’ American Psycho we’re introduced to Patrick Biteman, a hipster version of Ellis’ main character in the movie, who sits around the table with his fellow co-workers braggadociously comparing their jeans to see who has the best quality and cut. When Biteman sees Jean Paul’s jeans, which are made from the highest quality of Otaku Virgin raw denim, his obsession leads to killing Jean Paul with an axe. There is a clear connection between the Wall Street yuppies in the 90ies, who were obsessed with finest suits, their hair and business card, and the hipster culture of today that has taken this same attitude towards denim, beards and everything-before-it-was-cool. While it’s safe to say that no one will actually axe you for your jeans any time soon, there is a truth hidden within all the absurdity. Amongst the raw denim community is an obsession with perfectly fitting jeans. Some denim aficionados would even go as far as wearing the same pair of jeans every day for three years just to get the perfect fades that give it that semi-vintage look. But what makes raw denim so special? And why are people so obsessed with raw denim?

Yorrick Boots, a denim aficionado and proud owner of two raw denim APC jeans and currently on the hunt for a Momotaro, thinks the answer lies in the place jeans have in society and men’s fashion.“I think that because menswear is more traditional and jeans are embedded in every man’s closet raw denim actually makes a difference. You customize it to the point where you have a product that no one has, because it holds your story.”Another part of what Boots believes makes raw denim so special is that there’s such a tight on- and offline community. “Especially when you have these kind of interests it’s inspiring to see how others customize their jeans. When you walk on the street other people who wear raw denim will approach you and actually start a conversation about your jeans.”

While Yorrick has some experience with raw denim after wearing in two jeans, he does admit that sometimes one of these little projects can still fail without doing anything wrong. Getting to that vintage look is a long process with subtle changes that won’t happen overnight. His second pair for instance, an APC Petit Standard, now shows creases on the place where he normally keeps his phone. “I love pocket fades. However, the ones that are now imprinted in my Petit Standard’s aren’t in balance with the rest, which is why I’ll make sure to put my phone in my jacket and hope that the whiskers that’ll appear in half a year will balance everything out.”It’s this unpredictable aspect of raw denim that creates this obsession with getting the perfect fit and fades. The time spent on wearing them are an investment in the future, but make one mistake and you might lose it all. So why would someone even consider buying such a demanding product if you could simply buy something that looks vintage in the stores?

Despite the fact that sandblasted and stonewashed jeans will never reach the level of authenticity that you get from the commitment to a pair of raw denim jeans, there’s also other aspects that make the patience and discipline worth your while. As mentioned before raw denim acts like a canvas capturing your personal story, but there is also a sense of achievement that comes with reaching the finish line and having that perfect pair of jeans to show for it. It wouldn’t stretch reality to say, like all elite clubs, raw denim wearers are conscious of their superior status in the trouser-wearing world. They can’t help but be ambiguous about the mystical process that led to their privileged position of top-tier jeans wearer.Another perk of wearing raw denim jeans is that by the end of the road, when you created this vintage look due to years of intensive use, there are brands

that are willing to compensate you for those jeans. Tenue de Nimes has occasionally talked to customers that walked into the store with their raw treasures and offered to buy their jeans to display in their store. APC also has a policy that if you bring your broken-in jeans to the store you can get 50% off on your next purchase. While many would argue whether three years of wearing the same pair of jeans, an art project that tells three years of your life story, equivalents €75 there are people who have done it. And if you think about it, you actually got to enjoy a pair of jeans for 3 years and get a 50% discount for it in return to buy another pair.

While the culture and community behind raw denim might seem hedonistic and obsessive at times, it’s the perfect example of how denim is conceived as more than just a pair of jeans. Some might take them for granted and see them as the most standard and least exciting clothing item in their wardrobe, others see it as a project. For those people raw denim is a companion, living together with you for three years and going everywhere you go.

Washing or No Washing?While most jeans are pre-shrunk when they’re washed, raw denim will shrink 10% in size when it’s washed. Imagine your face when you throw your new pair of jeans into the washing machine and your face will look the same as your girlfriends face when you throw her favorite cashmere sweater into the dryer. People will go out of their way to avoid washing their jeans within the first year, but after a year it’s encouraged to wash your jeans after a year, as this will prevent crotch blowouts. If your jeans start to smell, throw them in the freezer inside a plastic bag.

Honeycombs & Whiskers?Throughout the first year your jeans will start showing creases. The two most popular creases are the whiskers, which are horizontal crease lines around the crotch, and the honeycombs, which are the creases on the area at the back of the knees that resemble the pattern of a honeycomb. If you want the whiskers to end up straighter and sharper this can be achieved by buying your raw denim jeans one size smaller. The weight of the twill might also have influence on the contrast of the whiskers and honeycombs, and the heavier the twill the sharper the contrast. If you want the honeycombs to be more expressive, it’s best to buy your jeans longer than your actual length size. The more the jeans drape in the back of your knee and at the ankle, the more prominent the creases will show.

Tenue de Nimes is a denim store that specializes in giving you the same level of service and information you would get from a Seville Row bespoke tailor. His first advice: “The process starts with buying the right pair of jeans. Finding the perfect raw denim starts with asking yourself what you really want. The weight of the twill, the cut of the model and the size all influence the end result greatly.”

Sizes?As you wear your raw denim jeans throughout the first months the fabric slightly stretches. For instance, APC jeans stretch about two sizes. This is why it’s always important to look into the brand and size of the jeans before you decide to buy them.

If you’re interested in buying a pair of raw denim jeans, it’s important to educate yourself a little on raw denim and it’s traits and characteristics. That’s why we asked Lucas van der Kam from Tenue de Nimes for his expertise.

1 DAY 3 YEARS

Washing or No Washing?While most jeans are pre-shrunk when they’re washed, raw denim will shrink 10% in size when it’s washed. Imagine your face when you throw your new pair of jeans into the washing machine and your face will look the same as your girlfriends face when you throw her favorite cashmere sweater into the dryer. People will go out of their way to avoid washing their jeans within the first year, but after a year it’s encouraged to wash your jeans after a year, as this will prevent crotch blowouts. If your jeans start to smell, throw them in the freezer inside a plastic bag.

Honeycombs & Whiskers?Throughout the first year your jeans will start showing creases. The two most popular creases are the whiskers, which are horizontal crease lines around the crotch, and the honeycombs, which are the creases on the area at the back of the knees that resemble the pattern of a honeycomb. If you want the whiskers to end up straighter and sharper this can be achieved by buying your raw denim jeans one size smaller. The weight of the twill might also have influence on the contrast of the whiskers and honeycombs, and the heavier the twill the sharper the contrast. If you want the honeycombs to be more expressive, it’s best to buy your jeans longer than your actual length size. The more the jeans drape in the back of your knee and at the ankle, the more prominent the creases will show.

Tenue de Nimes is a denim store that specializes in giving you the same level of service and information you would get from a Seville Row bespoke tailor. His first advice: “The process starts with buying the right pair of jeans. Finding the perfect raw denim starts with asking yourself what you really want. The weight of the twill, the cut of the model and the size all influence the end result greatly.”

Sizes?As you wear your raw denim jeans throughout the first months the fabric slightly stretches. For instance, APC jeans stretch about two sizes. This is why it’s always important to look into the brand and size of the jeans before you decide to buy them.

If you’re interested in buying a pair of raw denim jeans, it’s important to educate yourself a little on raw denim and it’s traits and characteristics. That’s why we asked Lucas van der Kam from Tenue de Nimes for his expertise.

1 DAY 3 YEARS