hot process crock pot soap making...2.6 oz. olive oil (4.06%) note: already contains roe...

Copyright © 2005-2016 The Nova Studio. All rights reserved. No part of this handout may be copied or distributed in print or on the web without permission.

Hot Process Crock Pot Soap Making

~ by Lori Nova Endres ~

www.TheNovaStudio.com

IMPORTANT NOTE: THIS HANDOUT DOES NOT COVER SOAPMAKING “BASICS.” IT’S A “LEVEL 2” SOAP

MAKING CLASS THAT ASSUMES YOU’VE HAD A BEGINNING SOAPMAKING (FROM SCRATCH) CLASS OR

AT THE VERY LEAST HAVE SOME EXPERIENCE MAKING SOAP WITH LYE SUCCESSFULLY ON YOUR OWN.

Disclaimer: Sodium hydroxide (lye) should be handled carefully only by those who have read and understand the dangers of working

with a highly caustic raw material It is the responsibility of each soapmaker to research safety procedures prior to making soap.

References & Other Resources

-Handcrafted Soap by Delores Boone. Northern Light Books 2002. -Soap Naturally: Ingredients, Methods and Recipes for Natural Handmade Soap.

by Patrizia Garzena and Marina Tadiello. Griffin Press 2004. -The Soaper’s Cook Book by Coleen French and TJ Currey. Self Published 2003. -Debora Yavas. 2002: www.geocities.com/dyavas/crockpot (crock pot tutorial) -Kathy Barnett. 2001: www.soapnuts.com/cphp.html (instructions) -Victoria Patterson. 2001: www.soapnuts.com/cphp2.html (instructions) -Penny Tallent. 2001: www.soapnuts.com/cphp3.html (instructions) -Suzanne Wilson. 2001: www.soapnuts.com/cphp4.html (instructions) -Judy Cox. 2007: Making Crock Pot Soap (CPHP). Article in “The Handcrafted SoapMaker”

(the HSMG Hard Copy Journal). “Late 2006” Issue, Page 24.

http://www.thenovastudio.com/

http://www.soapnuts.com/cphp.html

http://www.soapnuts.com/cphp2.html




Introduction to HP Soap Making

WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO “HOT PROCESS”? The Hot Process (HP) Method of soap making starts out similar to the Cold Process method (combine your oils, distilled water/lye, stir mixture to trace), but is more elaborate in that it involves one important additional step: HEAT. By imposing some form of heat on the raw soap mixture (after we combine the oils/fats & lye/water and bring It to trace), we are forcing the saponification process to complete before the soap goes into the mold. Also different in HP soap is when you add your scents, colors & additives; almost everything is added after the cook, just before molding. HP soap is technically ready to use as you are molding it (once it is translucent), although generally speaking, a few weeks of curing hardens the soap, improves durability, longevity & perhaps the quality of the finished product as well.

HOW IS IT DIFFERENT FROM THE CP METHOD? In the Cold Process (CP) Method, you combine your oils, distilled water/lye, stir mixture to trace, then add your colors and scents and pour into a mold. The saponification process mainly takes place in the mold without your involvement. No outside heat source is used once the oils/fats and lye/water are mixed together (other than what naturally occurs). Subsequently, most CP soaps need 4-6 weeks to cure before they can be safely used.

WE WANT BENEFITS! In addition to the reduced curing period and having usable soap immediately, HP soap has other advantages. Most notably, it requires less scent which saves you money because the scent is always added as the last step in the process and the harsh lye never comes into contact with the delicate scent. For that same reason, you can use fragrance oils with no worry of seizing. Also, related to the soap being usable immediately, there is a shorter learning curve than you have with CP soap and if you fill custom orders, your clients won’t have to wait over a month to get their soap fix.

IN THE GOOD OL’ DAYS... Although it might appear to be a new and cutting edge practice, the HP method has been used historically in the time before pure lye was available, as it can use natural lye solutions (like potash) and it wasn’t necessary to know the exact concentration of the lye solution to perform the process successfully. Early soap makers would take fats and oils and boil them in a lye solution in a big vat over an open fire. After saponification occurred, the soap was precipitated from the solution by adding salt and then drained.

HOW DO WE MAKE HP SOAP TODAY? HP soap making today is different from the traditional method in that we have many options to choose from (and more accurate ways of measuring the lye). Popular HP methods include: Double Boiler Hot Process (DBHP), Oven Hot Process (OHP), Cold Process Oven Process (CPOP), In The Mold Oven Process (ITMHP), & Crock Pot Hot Process (CPHP). When done correctly, I believe that Crock Pot Hot Process (CPHP) is the easiest method, which yields the most consistent results (with the least likelihood for disaster), so that is what we’ll focus on today.

ALL SOAPERS STAND UP AND SAY I (don’t lye!) This handout provides you with Lori’s instructions & recipes specific to the Crock Pot Method of HP soap making & assumes you are familiar with the CP method of making soap. If you are not familiar with making soap from scratch using lye, check out Ruth’s video eClass on CP Soapmaking 101, which includes Lori’s CP 101 Handouts, instructions & lye safety.

https://thenovastudio.com/product/cp-soap-101-recorded-eclass-ruth/

https://thenovastudio.com/product/cp-soap-101-recorded-eclass-ruth/


HP Crock Pot Materials, Equipment & Supplies

Assuming you already make CP soap, then you already have 95% of what you need for HP Soap. The main additions are the crock pot, a whisk and sodium lactate (optional).

Before beginning, make sure you have the following:

1. A Clean Work Area. The key to making soap incident-free is to be organized. Be sure to have all your ingredients measured out ahead of time. Always have a pen & paper ready to take any necessary notes. Taking good notes during the soapmaking process is the only way to troubleshoot bad batches and replicate successful batches.

2. Proper Attire. Any collection of old clothing (long sleeved shirt, pants, shoes, etc.) that will cover the majority of your skin in the case you spill the lye or soap mixture. You should always wear rubber gloves AND eye protection when working with lye.

3. An Environment Free from Distractions. Never make soap when you are watching small children, are hurried or distracted. Many soap makers don't even answer their phone or the door while making soap. Although making soap is fun, it demands a certain level of seriousness and focus.

Materials & Equipment Checklist:

Safety Equipment - eye protection, rubber gloves, long-sleeves, socks, etc.

Crock Pot (5.5 - 6.5 quart size) with a low setting, preferably with a removable insert

Pot Holders/Oven Mitts - for handling crock pot insert – it gets VERY hot

Stick Blender – I use Proctor Silex Brand from CVS (formerly Longs Drugs) (~$15)

Stainless Steel or Enamel Pot – 5-10 Qts NOT aluminum – to melt fats in & cool soap

Plastic Whisk - for stirring the soap, post cook

Spatula, Heavy Duty, High Heat - for scraping inside of the soap pot and crock pot

Digital Scale – I use a KD-7000, it measures oz. & grams for oils, lye, scents, etc.

2-cup Measuring Cup – I use a heavy duty plastic one, for weighing the lye

8-cup or 2-Quart Heavy Duty Plastic Bucket– for mixing the lye into the water

1 or 2 Heavy-Duty Plastic/Stainless Spoons - for mixing the lye/water, oils & soap

2 Thermometers – one for the lye/water and one for the oils/fats (or better, 1 digital)

Stainless Measuring Cups & Spoons - for measuring miscellaneous additives

Stove Top or Hot Plate – to heat/melt oils (you can also use your crock pot for this)

Reynolds Plastic Coated Freezer Paper - for lining soap molds & covering counters

Soap Molds - a shoe-box, plastic divider mold, silicone molds, etc. (lined if needed)

Sharp Knife or crinkle cutter to cut the soap once it has cooled (after about 8 hours)

Paper Towels and/or Rags – for cleaning up – use paper towels to clean up all oils

White Vinegar – good for cleaning up – used to neutralize lye spills

Ingredient Checklist:

Lye (sodium hydroxide – use only trusted brands with no metal flakes)

Distilled or De-Ionized Water (at room temperature – never add lye to hot water)

Base Oils & Fats (olive oil, coconut oil, palm oil, avocado oil, castor oil, etc.)

Additives like natural herbs, clays, exfoliants, colors, etc.

Essential Oils or Fragrance Oils (with flashpoints above 170 F)

ROE (Rosemary Oleoresin Extract, antioxidant to extend the shelf life of your soap)

Sodium Lactate (optional for a more fluid mixture and a harder bar)


HP Crock Pot Soap Recipes ~ all measurements are by weight, not volume ~

LORI’S OLD (PRE-4/2009) HOT PROCESS RECIPE

Batch Size: 64 oz. of oil (4 pounds)

Liquid: 24 oz. Distilled Water

Lye: 8.95 oz. – or 254 grams (6% superfatted)

Oils: 26 oz. olive oil (40.63%) 16 oz. coconut oil (25%) 16 oz. palm oil (25%) 2 oz. shea butter (3.13%)

2 oz. avocado oil (3.13%) 2 oz. castor oil (3.13%)

Additions: 1.90 oz. sodium lactate (into lye water) & 2 grams ROE (added to oils)

MISSION PEAK’S “SOAP QUICK” RECIPE

Batch Size: 64 oz. of oil (4 pounds)


Lye: 9.08 oz. – or 257 grams (6% superfatted)

Oils: 22.4 oz. canola oil (35%) 17.9 oz. coconut oil (27.97%) 17.9 oz. palm oil (27.97%) 3.2 oz. castor oil (5%)

2.6 oz. olive oil (4.06%) NOTE: Already contains ROE anti-oxidant

Comments: Soap Quick is David Critchfield’s answer to quick & easy batches – all the oils are pre-measured – you just stir and weigh out the total amount of oil you need. I was skeptical before I used it, but I think it’s perfect for beginners who don’t want to buy large quantities of 5 different oils or experienced soapers who want to save time.

DELORES BOONE’S SOFT SHEA RECIPE

Batch Size: 58 oz. of oil (3.6 pounds)


Lye: 7.8 oz. – or 221 grams (8.5% superfatted)

Oils: 24 oz. olive oil (41.38%) 10 oz. coconut oil (17.24%) 8 oz. palm kernel oil (13.79%) 8 oz. avocado (13.79%)

6 oz. shea butter (10.34%) 2 oz. castor oil (3.45%)

Comments: Although the soap is quite soft, I LOVED the way this soap made my skin feel - VERY soft (my recipe also had finely ground oatmeal).

[Note: I run all recipes through the lye calculator at www.thesage.com to evaluate before trying.]

http://www.thesage.com/


Nova Blank HP Crock Pot Soap Worksheet

RECIPE NAME: ________________________ Made On Date: ___________________ Created By: ___________________________ Firm Enough Date: ________________ Oil Name Oil Amount Oil % Notes ________________ ________ oz. _____% ______________________________ ________________ ________ oz. _____% ______________________________ ________________ ________ oz. _____% ______________________________ ________________ ________ oz. _____% ______________________________ ________________ ________ oz. _____% ______________________________ ________________ ________ oz. _____% ______________________________

Total Batch Weight (in oil): ______ oz. (total/16 oz. = _____ pounds) LIQUID: ___________________________________ Amount: ____________________ LYE: _____% superfatting = ______ oz. x 28.35 (conversion #)

equals _____ grams of lye needed for this recipe SCENT NOTES: _________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________

Note the temperature of the soap when your scent was added (always post-cook): _____F COLOR NOTES: _________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________ What type? How much? When was color added (pre or post cook)? _________________ ADDITIVE NOTES: _______________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________

OTHER NOTES:

SODIUM LACTATE: 1.90 oz. (approx 3%) add to lye water just before combining with oils ROE (antioxidant): 2 grams (approx .1%) add to melted oils just before mixing w/ lye water

COMBINING TEMPS: _____F Oils / _____F Lye (ideally the lye won’t be hotter than oils) Turned ON crock pot at: _______ am/pm Mixture in crock pot at:______ am/pm Lid ON crock pot (trace):_______ am/pm Crock pot OFF (transparent):______ am/pm Total crock pot cook time:______ minutes In Final MOLD at:______ am/pm Mold Type:________________ Unmolded on_______ (date) at:______ am/pm EVALUATION of FINISHED SOAP (overall look, color, texture, feel, etc.): ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________________


Lori’s Recipe - HP Crock Pot Soap Worksheet

RECIPE NAME:_________________________ Made On Date:____________________ Created By: Lori @ The Nova Studio Firm Enough Date:_________________ Oil Name Oil Amount Oil % Notes Olive Oil 26 oz. 40.63% I use Kirkland/Costco Brand__________

Coconut Oil 16 oz. 25% I use 92 (but 76 would be fine)____ Palm Oil 16 oz. 25% Palm Shortening from Mission Peak____ Avocado Oil 4 oz. 6.25% I usually use refined________________ Shea Butter 2 oz. 3.12% I usually use refined________________

Total Batch Weight (in oil): 64 oz. (total/16 oz. = 4 pounds) LIQUID: Distilled Water Amount: 24 Ounces LYE: 6% superfatting = 8.96 oz. x 28.35 (conversion #)

equals 254 grams of lye needed for this recipe SCENT NOTES: __________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________

What was approx. temp. of the soap when scent was added (always post-cook!):_______F COLOR NOTES: __________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ What type? How much? When was color added (pre or post cook)?__________________ ADDITIVE NOTES: _______________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________

OTHER NOTES:

SODIUM LACTATE: 1.90 oz. (approx 3%) add to lye water just before combining with oils ROE (antioxidant): 2 grams (~ ½ tsp.) add to melted oils just before mixing w/ lye water

COMBINING TEMPS: _____F Oils / _____F Lye (ideally the lye won’t be hotter than oils) Turned ON crock pot at: _______ am/pm Mixture in crock pot at:______ am/pm Lid ON crock pot (trace):_______ am/pm Crock pot OFF (transparent):______ am/pm Total crock pot cook time:______ minutes In Final MOLD at:______ am/pm Mold Type:________________ Unmolded on_______ (date) at:______ am/pm EVALUATION of FINISHED SOAP (overall look, color, texture, feel, etc.): ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________________


Lori’s Instructions for Making HP Crock Pot Soap

1. READY, SET, SOAP! Ready your working area and your mold(s). Set out all your ingredients. Cover all surfaces that need protection from lye and raw soap. Take notes!!!

2. WEIGH DISTILLED WATER. Place mixing container (heavy-duty plastic or stainless steel) onto your scale & tare it out. Weigh the distilled water. Set it on a heat-proof surface. NOTE: To determine the lye and water amounts, I use the lye calculator at www.thesage.com – for HP, I always use the full amount of water indicated.

3. SAFETY FIRST! Put on protective GOGGLES & rubber GLOVES & carefully weigh out the lye in a 2-cup (minimum) capacity plastic or stainless steel measuring cup.

4. ADD LYE TO WATER: In a well-ventilated area, hold your breath and while slowly and steadily stirring with one hand, pour the lye granules INTO the distilled water (NEVER the other way around or you could have a volcano of caustic lye). Take a break to walk away and breathe. Continue to stir until all lye is dissolved (about 30 seconds). The reaction of the lye and water will produce heat, up to 180°F, which causes steam and harmful fumes. Take care not to breathe in the fumes. Place in a safe area to cool to approx. 125°F.

5. WEIGH SOLID OILS (coconut, palm, etc.) on a scale in a mixing pot and gently MELT on LOW HEAT until all oils are liquid (you will want to remove the pot immediately once all oils are melted to prevent the oils from getting too hot). If you are using any butters (like shea butter), add them just after removing the oils from the heat (they are more sensitive to heat).

6. Just after putting solid oils on the stove to melt, PREHEAT YOUR CROCK POT on LOW (note: it will stay on LOW the entire time). Ideally your crock pot will be preheated for approximately 10 minutes before you transfer all the melted oils into it.

7. WEIGH LIQUID OILS (olive oil, avocado oil, etc.). If you’re experienced with your scale & confident in your measuring ability, you can weigh the liquid oils right into your mixing pot. Otherwise, weigh each oil individually in a separate container, slightly over-measuring by approximately .1 oz each (this will account for loss in the transfer). Then, weigh each of the individual oils a second & final time into your mixing pot. This procedure of measuring twice will ensure that you don’t over pour oil that you can’t remove from your mixing pot.

8. (Optional): ADD ROE (Rosemary Oleoresin Extract = antioxidant) to oils to help extend the shelf life of your superfatted soap (you only need .1% of the total oil weight). A 4-pound batch needs 2 grams (about ½ teaspoon).

9. (Optional) SODIUM LACTATE, a sodium salt of lactic acid, is a humectant, which can be added to the lye/water just before it goes into the crock pot to help your soap be a little more “fluid” in the final stages as you are mixing in colors/scents and it also helps with firmness of final bar. Use 1% (.64 oz) for a slight increase in firmness, 2% (1.28 oz) for a moderate increase, and 3% (1.92 oz) for a significant increase. There is a box on the www.thesage.com lye calculator that you can check and it will tell you how much to use.

10. COMBINE LYE/WATER & OILS: Once your oils are melted and the temps of both the oils/fats and the lye/water are close to 125°F, you are ready to make soap. Take a second to write down the combining temps (yes, right now!) as you remove the thermometers. With GLOVES and GOGGLES ON, carefully pour the lye/water into the fats (already in crock pot) and stir with a spoon or spatula for about a minute to start the reaction.

http://www.thesage.com/


11. STICK BLENDER TIME: Once the lye/water and oils have started mixing, place stick blender into the soap and mix for 5-20 second pulses, for approximately 5-10 minutes, until the soap is thoroughly mixed (read below before the soap gets too thick).

12. IF you have PRE-COOK COLORS (oxides or clays) or PRE-COOK ADDITIVES (oatmeal, etc.) that need to be mixed well AND won’t be negatively affected by the heat, ADD THOSE NOW, before the trace gets too thick. Alternate the stick blender with some passes with a spatula along the edges & bottom of the crock pot. Once you reach a THICK TRACE (pudding-like consistency), you are ready to put the lid on & start the cook (finally!). Reminder: Be a good little note taker and NOTE THE TIME on your recipe sheet.

13. PLACE LID ON CROCK POT and COOK the soap for about 30-55 minutes. Total cook time depends on the crock pot, recipe and your mixing temps. During this time, your soap will slowly start to change from opaque raw soap, to translucent cooked soap. This process begins along the sides of the crock pot, in one or two locations and gradually moves around the edges, up from the bottom, into the center. Once the entire mixture looks transparent, the soap is done! Boone refers to this as the “waves” covering the “island.” You might even catch a glimpse of glycerin on top of your soap!

CAUTION: Occasionally the soap may try and grow out of the pot! Never walk away out of eyesight of the crock pot. If it gets too close to (or hits) the lid, open and stir back down.

14. CHECK FOR DONENESS: Remove lid once the entire mixture is TRANSLUCENT. Insert a WHISK under the center of the mashed potato-like soap and pull upwards to see if any uncooked soap is in the center. Any signs of light-colored chunks (like un-melted butter), mean the soap is not done yet. Put the lid back on for a few minutes and then test again. The soap is only done when everything is translucent (i.e., there are no unsaponified bits).

15. UNPLUG & TRANSFER: Once the mixture has completely cooked and saponified, immediately turn off the crock pot and lift the ceramic insert out (CAUTION: the soap and insert will be VERY HOT). Transfer the soap to another pot to help it cool down quicker.

16. POST-COOK ADDITIONS: While waiting for the soap to cool down before adding scent, now is the time to add POST-COOK COLORS (dyes) or POST-COOK ADDITIVES (like poppy seeds, etc.). If your colors are powdered, hydrate before adding in about ½ ounce of water, then add to soap and stir VERY well (and scrape sides often with spatula) to achieve an even color (otherwise you’ll have uneven streaks/bits of color throughout).

17. ADD SCENT as soon as the soap has cooled to BELOW the FLASHPOINT of your scent

or 170F. If your scent has a flashpoint lower than 170F, do NOT use it for HP soap (it won’t work well). The more the soap cools down before molding, the more crumbly it can become, so add the scent at the highest temperature you can.

18. TIME TO MOLD: Once everything is incorporated, carefully pour/spoon the soap into molds. You can use lined shoe boxes, wooded molds, plastic divider molds & silicone molds. Bang mold on a table to settle the soap & remove air bubbles. Soap will be like mashed potatoes. If you want a smooth top, pour quickly & smooth down top of soap with your hand inside a baggie. If you don’t like the look you get on the top of HP soap, just trim the uneven top later.

19. SET, CURE & USE: HP soap is ready to be cut as soon as it cools down enough to hold its shape (about 8 hours). If made properly, it’s ready to use immediately! A few weeks of “curing” to harden the bar helps it last longer in the shower. HP should be wrapped just like CP soap, with a cigar band, full paper wrapper, etc. ENJOY


HP Crock Pot Soapmaking Oils/Fats

While HP soap can be made from any CP soap recipe, in my opinion, the resulting soap will not be as good. Therefore, to balance the negative effects of the hot process (additional heat, stirring after saponification, etc.), choose oils that make a more emollient bar of soap (like avocado & shea butter), & increase the superfatting slightly (from 5-6%). If a shorter curing time is important, experiment by increasing fats that produce a harder bar of soap. The hardening oils are: coconut, palm, palm kernel, cocoa butter, mango butter, shea butter, babassu, lard (pig fat) & tallow (beef fat). Also, stay away from oils that will soften your soap like castor, grape seed, safflower, sunflower, soybean, kukui nut, wheat germ & walnut. A really good chart on soap oil properties (hardness, lather, conditioning) can be found at www.soapnuts.com/indexoils.html

Avocado Oil: A very conditioning oil (high in oleic acid), high in unsaponifiables. A nice oil to use in recipes for damaged skin and hair. Has not much effect on the hardness of the bar.

Castor Oil: Consisting of 90% ricinoleic fatty acids, it produces a creamy lather & adds conditioning properties - but also softens soap quite a bit, so I recently removed it from my HP soap recipe (I still love it in CP soap). If you must have it in your recipe, suggested usage level is 1-3% of total oils. Be sure to recalculate your lye amount any time you change oil amounts.

Coconut Oil: Coconut oil produces a hard bar of soap with large, creamy bubbles. Although some soaps are made with 100% coconut oil, too high a percentage is thought to produce a soap that is drying. It is best kept at under 30% of total oils. Sold in 2 different melting points:

76F and 92F (same SAP value). The 76 is softer and can be liquid at room temperature,

while 92 is cleaner to work with in the summer (but harder in the winter). I prefer the 92.

Olive Oil: A stable oil high in oleic acid, has great “marketing appeal” and is popular in soap making. It can be used up to 100% of total fats for a mild bar of soap. Drawbacks are that it takes a long time to trace, the lather will be low, and the bar tends to get gooey in the shower. Soap made from a majority of olive oil is known as “castile soap” and is the gentlest soap you can make (good for babies & sensitive skin). Different grades of olive oil are: Extra Virgin (first press), Virgin, Grade A, Grade B, and Pomace (last press from the pits). If it doesn’t say any of the above on a label, chances are it is grade A or B. All types make perfectly good soap, but small variations in stirring time and finished soap may occur w/different grades (so keep good notes on recipe sheet as to where you buy your oils & exactly what type they are).

Palm Kernel Oil: Looking for a milder substitute for coconut oil? Palm kernel has about the same amount of lauric acid so it produces a similar soap in terms of lather. If you substitute, be sure to re-run your recipe through the lye calculator, as they have different SAP values.

Palm Oil: Used as a hardener in “all vegetable” recipes, palm oil produces a creamy soap with small bubbles that cleans well. Many commercial soaps use palm oil as a base but it is best combined with coconut &/or olive oil. It traces quickly & makes a hard, long-lasting bar.

Shea Butter: Shea Butter (aka African Karite Nut Butter) is from the nut of the Mangifolia tree in Central Africa. The soft, pliant “butter” is expeller pressed, making it a usable raw material. Adding some shea butter to your soap adds “label appeal” and makes a luxurious bar. Shea butter will harden soap and boost the lather when used at up to 10% of the total oils. Comes in different stages of refinement & colors - I typically use refined, which is white with no odor.

http://www.soapnuts.com/indexoils.html


Coloring HP Crock Pot Soap

Since HP soap goes through additional heating, coloring HP soap is more challenging than coloring CP soap. There are 2 options for when to add color: 1) at a very light trace, before the cook starts (so you can stick-blend), or 2) after the soap has cooked in the crock pot. Some colors are better added pre-cook, others post-cook, at the mashed potato stage. Experimentation and good note keeping are necessary to get the exact color you desire.

When using a new color for the first time, try to use a scent that is not color specific. Lavender would be a bad choice (since it should be a shade of purple). Something like musk, daisy, wild flower, or anything that doesn’t make you think of only one color will do. That way, you won’t be disappointed if your soap comes out a completely unexpected color (this typically happens with DYES added PRE-COOK where they ARE affected by the lye).

When adding POWDERED COLORS (dyes or pigments), mix into about ½ ounce to 1 ounce of distilled water. I do this in a shot glass and stir with a popsicle stick. This will help decrease the chance of getting lumps/speckles in your soap (since it can be difficult to blend powdered ingredients well). Whether you add before the cook (at trace with stick blender) or after the cook, stir well to incorporate. If you add TOO MUCH COLOR, you’ll know because your BUBBLES (lather) will no longer be white. This soap could stain your skin, towels & tub!

CLAYS: I have used colored clays to color HP soap naturally with really great results. I use between ½ tsp. and ½ T per pound of fat/oil – usually added PRE-COOK so they mix in thoroughly. Commonly available clay colors are: Red Moroccan (peach to brick red), French Green (beige/very light green), Yellow, Rose and Pink. These should be cosmetic grade clays sold through many suppliers & some local health food stores. A great place to get information on clays is www.fromnaturewithlove.com (large variety & a sample pack).

FD&C DYES: (F)ood, (D)rug & (C)osmetic colors are unpredictable in CP (they react with the lye), but they work quite well for HP soap as long as you add them POST-COOK (so they don’t react with the lye) & mix them in thoroughly. Good for more vivid colors than you can get with herbs/clays/oxides. Dyes are not “natural,” but they are commonly used to color food, cosmetics & soap. Add slowly, as how much to use depends on the dye concentration.

HERBS/SPICES: Can be added directly to the soap & do not need to be mixed with water or oil. Simply add in dry and stir well for even distribution. Most spices like cinnamon & turmeric can be added before the cook, some will work better added after the cook.

OXIDES: Inorganic, *supposedly* heat stable color additives that come in black, brown, yellow, green, red, orange & white. If added pre-cook (like titanium dioxide), they mix in (with stick blender) much better. With some like orange oxide, my experience has been that even when I use double the amount I would in CP soap, the color fades quite a bit after the cook. So, I’m not convinced these are all heat stable, but you can always add more post-cook (if powdered, dilute in ½ oz. water first) & keep good notes of exactly how much, etc.

ULTRAMARINES DO NOT WORK in HP!: These color additives are not heat stable, which means they will fade when added before cooking. You can try to add post-cook, but there is still heat present and they are difficult to mix in. They work very well for CP soap, but in HP soap they are problematic so I avoid them altogether.

http://www.fromnaturewithlove.com/?affiliate=33097


Using Additives in HP Crock Pot Soap

The additives you choose are largely responsible for how your soap looks and feels. The amount will depend on your preference, but a good STARTING place is 1 TEASPOON to 1 TABLESPOON per POUND of oil in your recipe. Often, the final look/feel of your soap can be unpredictable, so the ONLY WAY to make fine tuning adjustments and eventually replicate your masterpieces is to keep PRECISE notes right on the recipe page. Indicate exactly what you’ve used, how much and where you purchased it.

To use herbs for texture in soap, always make sure they are DRY (not fresh). Some will turn brown (lavender buds, rose petals), and some will retain their natural color (safflower, calendula). You can either add WHOLE herbs or finely POWDERED herbs (parsley, turmeric, paprika). There are also many exfoliating additives like ground adzuki beans, ground coffee, coconut, walnut shells, oatmeal, etc. You will probably want to limit COARSE additives to 1 or 2 teaspoons for most BODY soaps, otherwise the soap could be too scratchy, and in that case it can be used as an effective HAND soap. MISCELLANEOUS NOTES: The color of your base oils/fats might slightly affect the final color of your soap. For example, if you use a soybean oil that is slightly yellow and add blue color, you might end up with greenish-blue. Most vanilla-containing fragrances will turn the soap shades of brown. It may look nice but quite often brown soap is not appealing because it's the color of what you are usually trying to wash off!

HP Crock Pot Additive/Scent Suggestions

Name: Lemongrass Coconut Scent: 1 oz. lemongrass essential oil and 1 oz. coconut fragrance oil

(lemongrass flashpoint = 169F, so add scent at about 165F) Color: 2 tsp. liquid yellow oxide, added when mixing oils & lye @ light trace If color isn’t bright enough, try adding some yellow dye (post cook).

Also, some yellow clays (added pre-cook) can give a nice yellow color. Additives inside: 1/3 cup dried coconut added before cook (as an exfoliant) Additives on top: After molding, immediately add more coconut and/or dried lemongrass

Name: Brown Sugar & Oatmeal Scent: 1-2 oz. brown sugar fragrance oil Color: None needed. Most fragrance oils with vanilla in them will turn your soap into a

nice shade of brown that suits the soap well. Additives inside: 4 T very finely ground & sifted oatmeal (or buy colloidal oatmeal) Additives on top: After molding, immediately press whole oats into the top of the soap Mold suggestion: A silicone muffin mold works great, be sure to spoon into mold quickly

Name: Mango Poppyseed Scent: 1-2 oz. mango fragrance oil Color: 1T yellow dye (amount depends on strength of dye) – add post cook Additives Inside: 1T poppy seeds (a little goes a long way)

TIP: Feel free to use my recipes (base oils, scent, color & additives) exactly as is, or change them to

suit your preference. You can always get INSPIRATION from other soapers, but copying exactly (without permission) the color, scent, additives & packaging from others is not only un-original, but it’s

also un-cool. With a seemingly infinite number of fun ingredients to choose from for scent, color, texture & packaging, you should try to make your soap as unique as you are. Don’t forget to have fun!


Scenting HP Crock Pot Soap

Both fragrance oils (synthetic) and essential oils (natural) can be used to scent HP soap. Several years ago I started using only essential oils for my CP soap, but with HP soap I found it challenging to limit myself to only essential oils (it can be done, you just have fewer options). For those of you who don’t mind using fragrance oils, you’ll be happy to know that they work very well in HP soap (since many have have higher flashpoints, and you have a lot more options/variety). The main reason is that since your soap gets much hotter (from the crock pot), many essential oils will evaporate (even though you ALWAYS ADD scent in HP SOAP POST-COOK). See notes on “Flash Points” below, as they are very important in HP soapmaking.

What are Essential Oils? Essential Oils (E.O.s) are the concentrated, fragrant, essence of plants. These volatile extracts are obtained by distillation or expression from flowers, citrus peels, grasses, seeds, leaves, roots, barks, fruits, mosses, and resins. Examples are cedar wood, geranium, etc. If you want your soap to be “all natural” you will need to use essential oils for scenting (or leave the scent out entirely). See note on flash points below to see which essential oils work in HPCP soap.

What are Fragrance Oils? Fragrance Oils (F.O.s) are often used by soap makers to scent homemade (CP or HP) soap. F.O.s are considered synthetic (they are not considered natural & are created in a lab or by a perfumer). If you want scents like Mango Coconut or Cucumber Melon, your only option is to use fragrances. Be sure to purchase “cosmetic grade” F.O.s which means they are skin safe & tested in diluted amounts on the skin. Also see note on Flash Points below.

What is Seizing? When using some fragrance oils (and some essential oils) in CP soap, seizing can happen due to a reaction between the fragrance oil and the lye. Seizing causes the soap to heat up and harden extremely fast, sometimes so much that it’s impossible to get the soap out of the soap pot! Luckily, seizing should not occur in HP soap making since the scents are always added AFTER saponification, when there is no lye left in the soap mixture.

How Much Scent to Use? Another benefit of HP soap is that you can get away with using LESS scent than you would normally use for CP soap. The reason is that since the scent is added later in the process, there is less of it that is affected by the lye and the saponification process. I’ve been experimenting with using about 2 oz. of scenting oil in my 4 lb. batches, which comes out to about 3% scent. This results in a highly scented soap. If you want something more subtle, try 2% of the total oils. Another method of deciding how much to use would be to take the amounts that I recommend for CP soap and divide by 2 (or use 50%). For “fragrance” usage rates, I recommend asking the supplier where you buy your scents from what they recommend for CP soap and then use half that amount. Once again, always purchase & use only cosmetic-grade (aka skin-safe) fragrance oils.

Why Should I Care About Flash Points: All fragrance oils and essentials oils have what is called a “Flash Point” or the temperature at which the scent will burn off, leaving little to no scent behind. In my

experience, only scents with a flashpoint of 170F or more should be used in HP soap, because if

your soap cools to less than 160F, it can result in a very crumbly soap. Be sure to allow your soap some time to cool down after the crock pot cook before adding the scent (and use a thermometer).

FLASH POINT LIST: Those EOs that are good to use for HP (they have a flashpoint of over 170F) include: aniseed, basil, cedarwood, clary sage, geranium, lemongrass, myrrh, palmarosa, patchouli, sandalwood, spikenard, vetiver & ylang ylang. I’m looking forward to experimenting with scent blends that smell great & involve only these oils. Keep in mind that different suppliers sometimes list different flashpoints, so the best place to tell you the exact flash point of a particular oil is the company you purchased it from (some companies have this info printed on the label or listed on their website). Fragrance oils also have flashpoints, so be sure to check those where you purchase them as well.


HOT PROCESS SOAP MAKING LORI’S RECOMMENDED SUPPLIERS

BRAMBLE BERRY (Bellingham, WA) www.brambleberry.com 360-734-8278 The first soapmaking company Lori ever ordered from way back in 2001. They sell lye, soapmaking oils, some essential oils, fragrance oils & so much more. Use code NOVAFIVE for 5% off all online orders.

ESSENTIAL WHOLESALE (Oregon) www.essentialwholesale.com 866-252-9639 ESSENTIAL OILS & MISC.: Huge selection of product bases, unique ingredients and essential oils. Some great info on their website about essential oils & aromatherapy. Use coupon code: "nova05" for 5% off ALL on-line orders.

GLORY BEE FOODS (Oregon) www.glorybee.com 800-456-7923 ESSENTIAL OILS & MISC.: Great selection & prices on soap supplies. I buy some essential oils from here (but I just don’t like their lavender). Excellent company – excellent customer service. For 10% off your 1st Order, Mention "PRJ0000026" in the comments section of the online order form.

MAJESTIC MOUNTAIN SAGE (Utah) www.thesage.com 435-755-0863 My preferred on-line LYE CALCULATOR - plus a bunch of other supplies for making soap. They also sell the liquid sodium lactate that I use to make my HP soap more smooth & fluid.

MISSION PEAK SOAP (Fremont, CA) www.missionpeaksoap.com 510-795-1326 OILS & MOLDS: David has excellent prices on oils for soap making (coconut, palm, etc.) & pre-blended “Soap Quick.” Local, so you can save on shipping by picking up your order. When ordering, use Voucher Code “nova112363333” for $5 off your first order over $50.

ON-LINE LABELS (Florida) www.onlinelabels.com 888-575-2235 LABELS: Love them! I order all my full sheet labels from here – in all sizes, shapes & colors.

SOAP EQUIPMENT.COM (Hagerstown, Indiana) www.soapequipment.com 765-886-4640 PROFESSIONAL SOAP EQUIPMENT: Get professional quality soap & candle equipment, tools & more. If you enter their site through our link below when ordering and enter code “NSCustomer” in the coupon/discount code field at checkout; you'll save 5% off ALL on-line orders. Note: The Code: NSCustomer is case sensitive & must be entered exactly as written.

SWEET CAKES (Minnesota) www.sweetcakes.com 952-945-9900 FRAGRANCES: A bit expensive – but very nice high-quality fragrance oils and virtually all of their fragrances have been formulated for use in homemade soap (for the rare exceptions, a "not recommended for CP soap" warning appears – to warn people of seizing). They also list *Flash Points* for most of their oils (needed if you are doing HP).

TKB TRADING (Oakland, CA) www.tkbtrading.com 510-451-9011 COLORS: Kaila Westerman sells all types of powdered and liquid colors: dyes, pigments (oxides, ultramarines), micas, etc. Bottles are clearly labeled what each color contains: pigments, dyes, micas, etc. As a reminder for HP soap DYES added POST-COOK work best. For 10% off your orders, use code “novastudio”

WHOLESALE SUPPLIES PLUS (Ohio) www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com 800-359-0944 FRAGRANCES: This company has flashpoint information readily available right there on the label (most important for HP soap making), along with expiration date, etc.

FOR MORE RECOMMENDED SUPPLIERS & DISCOUNT CODES, WHEN ORDERING, PLEASE VISIT: www.thenovastudio.com/suppliers

(Using the links on our site when ordering helps support the studio, at no cost to you!)

https://www.brambleberry.com/?bb=6

http://www.essentialwholesale.com/

http://www.glorybee.com/

https://www.thesage.com/

http://www.missionpeaksoap.com/

http://www.onlinelabels.com/

https://store.soapequipment.com/?click=5705

http://www.sweetcakes.com/

http://www.tkbtrading.com/

http://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/

http://www.thenovastudio.com/suppliers

hot process crock pot soap making...2.6 oz. olive oil (4.06%) note: already contains roe...

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