How to Build a DIY Large Outdoor Dining Table | PINSPIRATION MOMMY

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How to Build a DIY Large Outdoor Dining Table

Free woodworking plans for building a large, extra-long outdoor dining table that sits 10 to 12

people. This table measures 3’ 4” x 9’.

• Cost: ~$250

• Difficulty: Intermediate

Plans are available for a matching 9’ long bench. Those are available on the Pinspiration

Mommy website ( https://www.pinspirationmommy.com/diy-extra-long-outdoor-bench/ ).

How to Build a DIY Large Outdoor Dining Table | PINSPIRATION MOMMY

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TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

Miter Saw Table Saw Drill/Driver

Kreg Pocket Hole Jig Counter Sink Drill Bits Kreg 2 ½” Blue Kote Pocket Hole Screws

2 ½” Exterior Wood Screws Minwax Dark Walnut Wood Stain

Interior/Exterior Wood Glue

Pine Pocket Hole Plugs (optional)

Outdoor Spar Urethane, Gloss Finish

Stainable Wood Filler

WOOD LIST:

Quantity Board Length

14 2x4 10’

4 2x6 12’

CUT LIST:

Section Quantity Board Cut Length

Table Top 5 2x4 105 ½”

Table Top 4 2x6 105 ½”

Table Top 2 2x4 108 ½”

Table Top 2 2x4 43 3/16”

Table Top 3 2x4 39 ½” with each

end at 45o angle

Table Base 8 2x4 17” with ends cut

at 45o

Table Base 4 2x4 24”

Table Base 4 2x4 6”

Table Base 2 2x4 30 5/16” w/ends

cut at 45o angle

Table Base 2 2x4 33 7/16” w/ends

cut at 45o angle

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Table Base 2 2x4 35 11/16” w/ends

cut at 45o angle

Table Base 1 2x3 68 ½”

DIY Outdoor Wood Table Instructions:

1. First build the table top:

A. Cut five 2x4s to 105 1/2" each

B. Cut four 2x6s to 105 1/2" each

C. Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes about 12" apart into two of the 2x4 boards (these will be the

outer end boards of the table, and the pocket holes will be used to attach the trim

pieces to the sides of the table top)

D. Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes into each end of the 2x6 boards

E. Cut three 2x4s to 39 1/2" in length, with a 45 degree angle cut at each of the ends:

F. Lay the 105 1/2" 2x4s and 2x6s next to each other on a large flat surface, with 2x4s

on each end, and then rotating 2x6s and 2x4s between the two end 2x4s (you can

leave 1/4" to 1/2" spaces between the boards to allow for water drainage, the wood I

was working with was pretty wet, so I knew it would shrink, so I did not leave spaces

between the boards as I knew they would appear later once the wood dried).

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G. Place the three 39 1/2" boards across the table top boards using the template below as

a guide:

H. Use wood glue and 2 1/2" exterior wood screws to adhere the top support boards to

the underside of the table top (predrill with a countersink bit prior to placing

screws). Place two screws into each 2x4 table top board and four screws into each

2x6 table top board.

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I. Cut two 2x4 boards to 108 1/2" each (long end to long end) with a 45 degree cut at

each end.

J. Cut two 2x4 boards to 43 3/16" each (long end to long end) with a 45 degree cut at

each end (same cut as previous step, but different length).

K. Use wood glue and 2 1/2" exterior pocket hole screws to attach the trim boards to

each side/end of the table (use the pocket holes drilled into the side 2x4s and the ends

of the 2x6s).

L. The table top should be complete, and should now look like this (bottom view of table

top followed by top view):

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2. Build the table base, here is a diagram of the side view of the base:

A. Cut four 2x4s to 6" each

B. Cut four 2x4s to 24" each

C. Cut two 2x4s to 33 7/16" each (long end to long end) with a 45 degree angle cut at

each end:

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D. Cut two 2x4s to 30 5/16" each (long end to long end) with a 45 degree angle cut at

each end (same cut as previous step, but different length).

E. Cut eight 2x4s to 17" each, long end to long end, with a 45 degree angle cut at each

end:

F. Using wood glue and 2 1/2" exterior wood screws, attach a 6" 2x4 to each end of the

33 7/16" boards (predrill with a countersink bit, and attach from the top of the long

board down into the 6" board, the holes will be covered by another board)

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G. Using wood glue and 2 1/2" screws, attach the 30 5/16" board to the top of the 33

7/16" boards[

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H. Drill two 1 1/2" pocket holes into each end of the 24" 2x4s. Using 2 1/2" pocket hole

screws and wood glue, attach a 24" 2x4 to each side of the foot of the base (make

sure pocket holes are on inside of table - where the diamond shape will eventually

be).

I. Next, using wood glue and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws, attach each 24" 2x4 (with the

feet also attached) to each of the end table top support boards (the boards the table top

boards are attached to).

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J. Next are the support beams to make sure the table is sturdy and stable:

K. Cut a 68 1/2" 2x4. Using a table saw, rip the 68 1/2" board to 3" in width (so it is

now a 2x3). Make sure to measure the distance between the table legs prior to cutting

the 2x4 to confirm the distance is 68 1/2".

L. Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes into each end of the 68 1/2" board and using wood glue and

2 1/2" pocket hole screws, attach the board to the stacked 2x4s that make up the

bottom of each side of the base.

M. Cut two 2x4s to 35 11/16" long end to long end, with a parallel 45 degree angle cut

at each end

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N. Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes into each end of one side of the 35 11/16" boards and using

wood glue and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws, attach the boards to the center support

board and the underside of the top of the table.

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O. Next, it’s time to add the diamond to the center of each side of the table base. Using

wood glue and 2 1/2" exterior wood screws (predrill with a countersink bit), attach

four of the 17" boards with the ends cut at 45 degree angles, in a diamond shape into

the center of each leg base.

3. Perform finishing touches.

A. Fill all the holes with wood filler or pocket hole plugs and let dry.

B. Sand the table until smooth.

C. Apply Dark Walnut stain (or any stain of your choosing) and let dry completely.

D. Apply three coats of Spar Urethane Exterior Glossy or Satin finish varnish, letting dry

completely between each coat, and sanding with fine grit sandpaper if necessary.

Have questions about these plans? Send me an email at admin@pinspirationmommy.com

Happy Building!