How to Build a HouseEdited byMA, BR, Tom Viren, Jack Herrickand 54 others

Home is what is most needed in one's existence, and can range from being as simple as an animal skin tent or shelter of branches and leaves, to a multi-story palace with dozens of bedrooms, bathrooms, and other special spaces. Building even a basic house is beyond the usual scope of a wikiHow article, but here are some general guidelines, and a basic list of steps involved in constructing a house.

EditSteps

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Select a location for your house.There are many areas to consider, but here are some things you should look at: Climate. Special considerations must be made for building in flood, hurricane, intense heat, frigid cold, and other extreme weather and climatic conditions.

Ground stability. Houses built on shifting sand, mucky soil, or other unstable earth will likely fail over a short period of time unless they are built on special foundations or pilings.

Availability of utilities. If you intend to have electric power, potable water, telephone, and other conveniences, make sure these utility providers offer them at your location.

Community infrastructure. If you plan to raise children, make sure good quality schools are available. Check to see if you are in a police jurisdiction to protect you from crime, look at the distance you will have to travel to acquire basic commodities, and whether medical help is nearby.

Available building materials. Homes can be built from rough lumber (or even logs), compressed earth blocks, or modern materials like aluminum, glass, and vinyl. Find out what is available in your area, and what the cost will be.

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Select the property on which you are going to build and purchase it.This may be a tremendous hurdle, depending on the cost, and your available funds. Building a house is an expensive process, but purchasing suitable property is also a major investment.

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Design your home.Architectsand engineers have special training and years of experience in designing houses, and are necessary for most building and zoning jurisdiction code requirements, but even if you contract their services, ultimately, the house you build will be built for you, so you should be involved closely in the design process. Here are some things to think about in the design stage of the project: Number of bedrooms. For a family house where the possibility of additions exists, remember it is simpler to add a room during initial construction than to remodel or build an addition later. If you only need 2 bedrooms at present, an extra room might be used for an office,storage, or even left unfinished and unfurnished until such time as it is needed.

Number of bathrooms. In practical terms, one bathroom can suffice in almost any circumstances, but if the house is for multiple people, two makes life much easier. Having two or more bathrooms will also increase the resale value in the convenience minded home buyer's mind.

Utility area(s). For family life, having a laundry room, and possibly even a garage can be a real help in managing day to day chores.

Kitchen. Although there may appear to be a trend to depend more on prepackaged, take out, or fast food for meals, many people are rediscovering the joy of cooking, and nothing contributes more to this enjoyable pass-time, hobby, and necessary activity than having a spacious, well designed kitchen.

Special function rooms. Consider if your lifestyle requires rooms suitable for special functions, such as formal dining, office space, a library, or a nursery.

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Have the property surveyed and thefootprintof the house located.This is not absolutely necessary, especially if you are building on a large parcel of land, but if there is any doubt about the property lines, have this done to assure you are not encroaching on a neighbor's property, or into the municipality'sBuilding Setbackswhen you build. Give a little thought in positioning your home on these things: View, in relationship to the land. If you are building a home with large windows in a living room, consider facing these toward the most appealing view.

Windows and how they light the interior. Kitchens may benefit the most from exterior light, so think about what time a ray of sunshine in the kitchen will offer the best results. Late afternoon may be cooking and dish washing time, so it may be best to orient the kitchen towards the west to take advantage. Larger windows on the south face of your house will also help heat the house through solar gain in colder climates.

Water Drainage. Be aware of how surface water (rain, snow melt, drainage from seasonal springs) moves across the building site. It is critical to keep water away from your home, especially in colder climates because of freezing, but also to keep a basement dry and to lessen the chance that you will have damp wood. This is an invite to many insects, like termites - in any climate. Simple swales (shallow, sculpted ditches - often grassy) will go a long way to controlling surface water drainage.

Accessing your home. On large parcels, especially, you will need to ascertain the route for a usable driveway if you depend on a car for transportation. Look at any low area that would become impassable in winter mud or heavy summer rain, how installingdrivewaywill effect the landscape, and whether a driveway will be in conflict with underground utilities. Pay particular attention to the way surface water will drain off the property. Every effort should be made so that water drains off and away from the driveway. This may require the placement of culverts (pipes) under the driveway to avoid puddling along its sides.

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Acquire permits for construction.A building permit is a basic requirement in many areas, particularly forpermanentconstruction, and you may also need the following to comply with local codes and zoning requirements: A septic tank permit.

Anelectricalpermit.

A plumbing permit.

A mechanical (HVAC, or air conditioning) permit.

You may also find you are required to apply for and receive an environmental and/or impact permit. (Having the house location marked prior to obtaining your permits will help to work details out in the environmental permitting process).

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Decide how much of the actual construction you will do yourself.Building a house involves several specifictrades, orcrafts, and to ensure quality work, it is usually better to have trained craftsmen perform the work. For the purpose of this article, we will simply continue in a step by step process assuming you are doing your work yourself. Here is a list of typical trades involved in home-building: Sitework. These are the people who will clear and grade the land.

Foundation/slab includes form carpenters, laborers, and concrete finishers.

Framers. Rough carpentry: frame up the walls, install the trusses (or stick-framed rafters), must be plumb (vertical) and squared.

Weathering in: Sheathing, roofing, exterior doors and windows.

Bricklayers(siding installers, wood, composite or vinyl).

Electricians.

Plumbers.

Drywall hangers/finishers.

Cabinet makers.

Heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) installers.

Insulators.

Trim, finish carpenters.

Painters.

Flooring installers: Carpet, hardwood, tile.

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Set up building lines.This means putting eitherbatter boardsor corner stakes at each corner of the house foundation tolevelandsquare upthe foundation. Use a transit or building level to make sure the building lines are level and square, and check by measuring corner to corner, diagonally, to make sure the walls and corners are "square", for right angles.

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Install your chosen type of floor.See below for two common types,slab on gradeorpier and beam/joistconstruction. Make sure you have installed plumbingrough insso that they are accurately placed for waste and vent lines and possibly potable water supply before slab is poured. Slab on grade construction steps:

Form up footing.

Lay foundation with rebar (including concrete block if any).

Install plumbing rough-in.

Backfill, grade the subgrade, and compact.

Pretreat for termites (if required or desirable).

Install moisture barrier.

Install reinforcing material in slab-floor (if required, either welded wire mesh or rebar).

Place andfinish concrete.

For off grade (above grade) construction.

Layout and install piers (or piling).

Install floor joist framing system.

Install subfloor/finish floor decking.

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Frame the wallsof your house. You will need to lay out the wall lines on the floor, beginning at one corner, marking your bottom plate (rat sill) to attach to anchor bolts (for slab on grade construction), and marking the location of doors, windows, and interior wall corners on the sill. Be sure to use special metal connectors/straps at the floor and tops of walls as required by code (for storm and earthquake proofing). Useteesat wall intersections, substantial headers for openings inload bearingwalls, and allow space at eachrough openingfor the feature to be installed, aligned and shimmed there to be fit correctly (doors, windows, etc.).

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Plumb the walls and brace them securely.Install sheathing if required, otherwise, use sheet metal straps to diagonally brace all exterior wall corners. Make sure all studs (vertical framing members, usually 2 inch by 4 inch nominal lumber, gradedstandard or better) are securely nailed in place, straight and square to the wall line.

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Lay out the marks for setting your rooftrusses.You may optionally want tostick frameyour roof, cutting and installing rafters and ceiling joists yourself (especially for useable attic space), but commonly prefabricated trusses are engineered with lighter, smaller lumber with much bracing, for maximum strength, but the prevalent bracing generally eliminates usable attic space because trusses use braced (trussed) 2x4 lumber instead of much heavier stick spanning lumber which must use 2x6, 2x8 and 2x10, etc. to span rooms (to be strong enough for attic floor spans), but trusses do speedup construction considerably. There are some trusses for attic with high-pitched roofs and dormers but they are quite different in design.

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Set each truss in the correct location, usually on 24 inch centers (stick is usually 16 inch centers since it has much less bracing).Attach hurricane clips or other connectors to secure them, plumb the center of each truss, and temporarily support them with arat runbracing near the peak.

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Installgablediagonal bracing (for a roof with gable ends) to prevent the roof frame fromracking/leaningwhen you install the roof decking.For ahip roof, installking raftersand hip rafters, being careful to keep the adjacentplanesof the roof consistent and straight.

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Nail asub-faciaboard connecting the ends of each truss or rafter, and build anyoutlookersto support the gable overhang (flying rafter which is not sitting on the top plate) and gable facia boards, if used.

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Deck the trusses or rafters with plywood, oriented strand lumber, or nominal lumber such as 1 by 6 inch, tongue and groove boards.In areas where high winds or snow-loading (accumulation) is possible, make sure the roof decking is secured and structurally able to withstand these severe forces and conditions. Use appropriate bracing and fasteners for this scope of work.

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Use 15 or 30 poundroofing felt(tar paper) nailed withsimplexnails, roofing tacks, or plastic capped felting tacks to secure it.Beginfeltingthe decking at the lower edge, allowing it to hang over slightly, and overlap subsequent layers to keep water from getting under this moisture barrier.

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Install the exterior siding and exterior features such as windows and doors.Many locations require some type offlashingto prevent water from penetrating the edge of these, but you may be able to seal them sufficiently with caulking if it is permitted and you are able. Your house is nowdried/weathered in.

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Install your final roof.You may choose painted sheet metal panels, rolled steel formed to lengths needed on site, orshingles, terra cotta tiles, or other materials, depending on your preference, costs, and products available at your location. Consider ridge vents, attic exhaust fans, vented dormers, and other architectural details which can increase the comfort of your house while decreasing cooling costs in hot climates.

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Rough in electrical devices.Most likely, there will be electrical outlets, light fixtures, and special wiring required for large appliances like water heaters, stoves, and air conditioning. Install the main electrical panel box, and any sub-panels your design requires, and install wiring from these to each device. Commonly, #12Romexcable is used for ordinary lighting and outlet circuits, andnail-inelectrical boxes are attached to the wall studs, with the front edge protruding to allow for the finished wall material to be flush.

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Install pipes for potable water, waste drains, and drain vents in walls.These can be capped off totrim outafter the walls are finished, especially if the local codes require pressure testing before finishing may be done.

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Install HVAC (air conditioning and heat) ductwork, air handlers, and refrigerant piping if required.Stub ductwork out for return air and supply air registers. Insulate ductwork if it is not pre-insulated, and seal all joints. Fasten ductwork as needed to prevent movement.

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Insulate walls where it is required, warmer climates may use much less insulation.Depending on the climate, you will want to get location-specific guidelines for this area of work. Insulate the spaces between ceiling joists, also. Walls are usually insulated with a minimum R-value of 13, ceilings with a minimum of 19, but as much as 30, or even more for lowering fuel and utility usage.

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Install your ceilings.Gypsum wall board (drywall or sheetrock) is a common material used for this application, but there are other products including accoustical ceiling tiles,beadedplywood paneling (to simulate planking), and even natural wood lumber (probably thin outlaying panels) that are used for this application.

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Install the bath tub, shower enclosure, and any other large plumbing fixtures which will interface with finished walls.Make sure plumbing rough-ins are correctly located, and pipes are protected and securely anchored.

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Install the wall board or paneling on interior walls.Gypsum wall board (panels are jacked 3/8 inch above the floor to avoid moisture from mopping or spills, etc.), or wood or masonite paneling. There are many interior wall products available, so the installation process will depend on the material used. Apply finish to gypsum wall board, taping and skimming/floating all joints to an acceptable level of finish. Finish/texture any ceilings during this step if applicable.

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Put up any trim you are using for baseboards, crown mouldings, and corners, and install your interior doors and jambs.If you are using natural wood trim and mouldings, you will want to paint the walls prior to this step. Prefinishing the trim before installing will make the final finish easier, but any nail-holes will probably still need attention after installation.

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Caulk, paint, and install wall coverings on any walls that require it.Most likely, you will want to prime wall board, then apply a finish coat. Use a paint roller where possible,cutting-inwith brushes around appertanances and in corners.

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Trim out the electrical devices, install lights and other fixtures, and install breakers in panel boxes if they were not pre-installed.

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Install cabinets and other mill work.You will probably need at least basic kitchen storage cabinets and a bathroom vanity cabinet for a sink, other cabinets may include a bar, upper storage cabinets, and lower units with drawers for kitchen utensils and supplies.

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Install plumbing fixtures, trim them out, and caulk and seal where needed.

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Install flooring.Note that for carpet floors, base boards are installed prior to flooring, leaving 3/8 inch for the carpet to tuck underneath it. For hardwood or composite floors, this trim is installed after the floor is finished.

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Install appliances, have the utilities turned on, and check details.

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Decorate your house, and move in.A Step-by-Step Guide to the Home Building Process

By Susan Bady

Here's what to expect during the major phases of construction.

Building your new home is exciting, especially when you understand how the process works. The following overview outlines the typical steps in the construction of a home and will help keep you abreast of what happens at key stages.

Keep in mind that the homebuilding process may vary from region to region and builder to builder, especially if youre building an elaborate custom home. Be sure to ask your builder about his or her specific policies and procedures.

1. Prepare site and pour foundation:Often, site preparation and foundation work are performed by the same crew, but this may not be the case with a wooded lot. Using a backhoe and a bulldozer, the crew clears the site of rocks, debris and trees for the house and, if applicable, the septic system. The crew levels the site, puts up wooden forms to serve as a template for the foundation, and digs the holes and trenches. Footings (structures where the house interfaces with the earth that supports it) are installed. If your home is going to have a well, it will be dug at this point.

If the home has a full basement, the hole is dug, the footings are formed and poured, and the foundation walls are formed and poured. If its slab-on-grade, the footings are dug, formed and poured; the area between them is leveled and fitted with utility runs (e.g. plumbing drains and electrical chases); and the slab is poured.

Once concrete is poured into the holes and trenches, it will need time to cure. During this period, there will be no activity on the construction site.

After the concrete is cured, the crew applies a waterproofing membrane to the foundation walls; installs drains, sewer and water taps and any plumbing that needs to go into the first-floor slab or basement floor; and backfills excavated dirt into the hole around the foundation wall.

INSPECTION #1:When the curing process is complete, a city inspector visits the site to make sure foundation components are up to code and installed properly. This inspection may be repeated depending on the type of foundation (slab, crawl space or basement). Your builder will then remove the forms and begin coordinating step 2, the framing phase.

2. Complete rough framing:The floor systems, walls and roof systems are completed (collectively known as the shell or skeleton of the house). Plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) sheathing is applied to the exterior walls and roof, and windows and exterior doors are installed. The sheathing is then covered with a protective barrier known as a house wrap; it prevents liquid water from infiltrating the structure, while allowing water vapor to escape. This reduces the likelihood of mold and wood rot.

3. Complete rough plumbing, electrical and HVAC:Once the shell is finished, siding and roofing can be installed. At the same time, the electrical and plumbing contractors start running pipes and wires through the interior walls, ceilings and floors. Sewer lines and vents, as well as water supply lines for each fixture, are installed. Bathtubs and one-piece shower/tub units are put in place at this point because theres more room to maneuver large, heavy objects.

Ductwork is installed for the heating, ventilation and air-conditioning (HVAC) system, and possibly the furnace. HVAC vent pipes are installed through the roof, and insulation is installed in the floors, walls and ceilings.

After the roofing goes on, the house is considered dried in. The electrician then installs receptacles for outlets, lights and switches and runs wires from the breaker panel to each receptacle. Wiring for telephones, cable TV and music systems is included in this work.

Note that HVAC ducts and plumbing are usually installed before wiring, because its easier to run wires around pipes and ducts than vice versa.

INSPECTIONS 2, 3 and 4:Rough framing, plumbing and electrical and mechanical systems are inspected for compliance with building codes. Most likely these will be three different inspections. At the very least, the framing inspection will be conducted separately from the electrical/mechanical inspections.

At this stage, drywall (also known as plasterboard, wallboard or gypsum board) is delivered to the building site. Sheetrock, a registered trademark of USG Corporation, is sometimes used as a generic term for drywall.

4. Install insulation:Insulation plays a key role in creating a more comfortable, consistent indoor climate while significantly improving a homes energy efficiency. One of the most important qualities of insulation is its thermal performance or R-value, which indicates how well the material resists heat transfer. Most homes are insulated in all exterior walls, as well as the attic and any floors that are located above unfinished basements or crawl spaces.

The most common types of insulation used in new homes are fiberglass, cellulose and foam. Depending on the region and climate, your builder may also use mineral wool (otherwise known as rock wool or slag wool); concrete blocks; foam board or rigid foam; insulating concrete forms (ICFs); sprayed foam; and structural insulated panels (SIPs).

Blanket insulation, which comes in batts or rolls, is typical in new-home construction. So is loose-fill and blown-in insulation, which is made of fiberglass, cellulose or mineral-wool particles. Another insulation option, liquid foam, can be sprayed, foamed-in-place, injected or poured. While it costs more than traditional batt insulation, liquid foam has twice the R-value per inch and can fill the smallest cavities, creating an effective air barrier.

Fiberglass and mineral-wool batts and rolls are usually installed in side walls, attics, floors, crawl spaces, cathedral ceilings and basements. Manufacturers often attach a facing such as kraft paper or foil-kraft paper to act as a vapor barrier and/or air barrier. In areas where the insulation will be left exposed, such as basement walls, the batts sometimes have a special flame-resistant facing.

5. Complete drywall and interior textures; start exterior finishes:Drywall is hung and taped so the seams between the boards arent visible, and drywall texturing (if applicable) is completed. The primer coat of paint is also applied after taping is complete. Contractors begin installing exterior finishes such as brick, stucco, stone and siding.

6. Finish interior trim; install exterior driveways and walkways:Interior doors, baseboards, door casings, window sills, moldings, stair balusters and other decorative trim are installed, along with cabinets, vanities and fireplace mantels and surrounds. Walls get a finish coat of paint and are wallpapered where applicable.

Generally, exterior driveways, walkways and patios are formed at this stage. Many builders prefer to wait until the end of the project before pouring the driveway because heavy equipment (such as a drywall delivery truck) can damage concrete. But some builders pour the driveway as soon as the foundation is completed so that when homeowners visit the construction site, they wont get their shoes muddy.

7. Install hard-surface flooring and countertops; complete exterior grading:Ceramic tile, vinyl and wood flooring are installed as well as countertops. Exterior finish grading is completed to ensure proper drainage away from the home and prepare the yard for landscaping.

8. Finish mechanical trims; install bathroom fixtures:Light fixtures, outlets and switches are installed and the electrical panel is completed. HVAC equipment is installed and registers completed. Sinks, toilets and faucets are put in place.

9. Install mirrors, shower doors and finish flooring; finish exterior landscaping:Mirrors, shower doors and carpeting are installed, and final cleanup takes place. Trees, shrubs and grass are planted and other exterior landscaping completed.

INSPECTION #5:A building-code official completes a final inspection and issues a certificate of occupancy (C.O.). If any defects are found during this inspection, a follow-up inspection may be scheduled to ensure that theyve been corrected.

10. Final walkthrough:Your builder will walk you through your new home to acquaint you with its features and the operation of various systems and components, and explain your responsibilities for maintenance and upkeep as well as warranty coverage and procedures. This is often referred to as a pre-settlement walkthrough. Its also an opportunity to spot items that need to be corrected or adjusted, so be attentive and observant. Examine the surfaces of countertops, fixtures, floors and walls for possible damage. Sometimes disputes arise because the homeowner discovers a gouge in a countertop after move-in, and theres is no way to prove whether it was caused by the builders crew or the homeowners movers.

A Few Words about Inspections:Your new home will be inspected periodically during the course of construction. In addition to mandated inspections for code compliance, your builder may conduct quality checks at critical points in the process. (In the story above, we point out when these inspections typically take place.) The idea is to catch as many potential problems as possible before construction is finished, though some issues may not surface until youve lived in the home for a period of time.

Talk to your builder early on about attending inspections, with or without your real-estate agent. Even if your presence is not required, its an opportunity to learn more about whats behind the walls of your new home and how everything works. If youre planning to hire your own inspector to do an additional review of the home, notify your builder prior to the start of construction.

For safety as well as logistical reasons, builders discourage customers from dropping in unannounced at the construction site. If youd like to pay a visit, be sure to arrange it in advance. Chances are your builder will conduct regular walkthroughs to bring you up to speed on the progress of the work.