how to weave a scarf2 (2)
TRANSCRIPT
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h w s m
sx handwoven scarve
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Serendipity Scar Color Meets exture by Joan Sheridan
sk y k . a y y, , ,
x - y . t m k y
m ué. i xu uuy, yu y k
y.
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In my shop, I always have a loom warped and ready so
my customers can sit down and weave. I also have an
entire room devoted to sock yarns! Needless to say,sock yarns oten make their way onto the shop looms.
Most sock yarns are treated so they won’t ull or shrink.
Tey are, however, designed to retain the ber’s lot. Tis
means that you need to allow or a generous amount o
take-up. You will also want to be careul when you wind the
warp that you don’t apply too much tension and inadvertently
wind a shorter warp than you intended.
Oten blended with nylon to increase strength, sock
yarns are made to endure the abuse that a garment
designed or the oot receives. Tereore, standing up to
the wear o the heddles and reed, or in my case a rigid
heddle, is no problem or them!
ResourcesDavenport, Betty. Hands On Rigid Heddle Weaving. Loveland,
Colorado: Interweave, 1997.Gipson, Liz. Weaving Made Easy, Loveland, Colorado: Interweave,
2008.
Structure Pl w.
Equipment
R-hl r 2-sht lm, 11 w wth; 12-t
r; 1 stck shuttl.
Yarns
Warp: 70%wl/30% l sls bl, (2,100 /lb,462 /100 bll, Nr Kur Sck Yr) clr #S240,
384 .
Weft: 78% mhr/13%wl/9% l buclé (960 /
lb, 480 /8 z sk, Hrt Mhr, Hrt Sp
W), Gr Trrs, 181 .
Warp Length
128 s 3 l (llws 9" r tk-up 22 r lm
wst).
Setts
Wrp: 12 p.
Wt: 10 pp.
Dimensions
Wth th r: 10 3 ⁄ 5".
W lth: 741 ⁄ 4".
Fsh sz: tr wsh, 67 1 ⁄ 2" × 9 1 ⁄ 4" wth 4 3 ⁄ 4"
r t ch .
W wrp 128 s 3 l. Wrp th lm r pl
w.
Plc 3 pcks wt ltrt shs th prss
thm ll tthr t spr th wrp. Us lht bt,
w th scr pl w r 741 ⁄ 4. Rm th clth
rm th lm.
T sh, wrk twst r wth 4 wrp s ch
r. Hwsh th scr wrm wtr wth ml sp.
Rll up th scr twl prss rml wth ur hs
t rm xcss wtr. L lt t r.
1
2
3
Fo r mo re i n s p i ra t io n,
ge t Ha nd wo ve n de l i v
e red to
yo u r doo r 5 t i me s a yea r !
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Shetland Scar Pick-Up on a Rigid-Heddle Loom Creates a Wae-Weave exture by Joe Sullins
a k-u k y y yu - m. U
“ ” m by l d’Textures and Patterns for the Rigid Heddle Loom,
u jy. o , m y m mu u
!
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h w s m
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W uu u u
y u m f k
k u . w y ,
k u . t
u m y
u
y mu m k-u .
ey, k k , yu
u uu y !
ResourcesDavenport, Betty Linn. Textures and Patterns for the Rigid
Heddle Loom. Albany, Oregon: Fine Fiber Press, 2008.__. Hands On Rigid Heddle Weaving . Loveland, Colorado:
Interweave, 1997.
Gipson, Liz. Weaving Made Easy. Loveland, Colorado:
Interweave, 2008.
Structure
Pl w wth pck-up.
EquipmentR-hl lm, 9 w wth; 12-t r;
1 shuttl; 1 pck-up stck.
YarnsWrp wt: 2-pl wl (1,800 /lb, Shtl,
Hrrsll Dss), Prwkl, 630 .
Warp Length
105 s 3 l (llws 7 r smpl, 5 r tk-up,
24 r lm wst; lm wst clus r).
Setts
Wrp: 12 p. Wt: 18 pp.
Dimensions
Wth th r: 8 2 ⁄ 3.
W lth: 72.
Fsh sz tr wsh 6 1 ⁄ 2 × 69.TIP: Always pick up warp threads with theheddle in the down position. Tis ensuresthat you only pick up the ends that arethreaded through the slots.
Fur-Str Flt Br
C.
A. D th wrp t buls tw rups wth 2 wrp thrs ch rup.
B. Strt th lt s, br th uts thr r th s lt thr. Th br th rht thr ur th s rht thr
r th lt thr tht s w sr s th s lt thr.
C. Rpt stps A B utl u h rch 6 scur wth rh kt.
A. B.
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h w s m
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W wrp 104 s 3 l.
Wrp th lm llw th spc-
cts p 4.
Wth th hl th w ps-
t, pck up 1 thr push w
1 thr crss th wth th wrp
utl u rch th lst wrp
(u’ll pck up ths ).
Push th pck-up stck t th bck
th lm. Strt wth th hl
th w pst, w 4 pcks
pl w.
To create the windowpane pattern:
Row 1: W 1 pck, hl up.
Row 2: W 1 pck wth th pck-up
stck : Put th hl th
utrl pst, pull th pck-up stck
twr th hl, tur th pck-up
stck t mk sh, -
srt th wt. Th rtur th pck-up
stck t th bck th lm.
Row 3: W 1 pck, hl up.
Row 4: W 1 pck, hl w.
Row 5: W 1 pck wth th hl
up pck-up stck : Wth
th hl th up pst, pull
th pck-up stck twr th hl
w. Th rtur th pck-up
stck t th bck th lm.
Row 6: W 1 pck, hl w.
Rpt Rws 1–6 r 71 1 ⁄ 2. E wth
4 pcks pl w.
Rm th clth rm th lm. T
rh kts ch rup 4wrp thrs bth s th
scr, su th kts rml
st th lst pck. Us
4-str br tchqu (s th
rm p 4), br ch wrp
bul r 6 th scur ch
br wth rh kt. Trm
th s 1 ⁄ 4 rm th kts.
Wsh th scr b h r mch
(tl ccl) wrm wtr wth
ml sp. Rll up th scr twl
prss rml wth ur hs t
rm xcss wtr. L lt t r.
2
3
4
5
1
Handwoven 2002-2010 Collection
CDs available now!
(866) 949-1646
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Big Bumps Scar In Merino and “Fulling-Proo” Wool by Madelyn van der Hoogt
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h w s m
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O
n the way to this scar, I learned something new about
shrinking/ulling abrics. Te wool-and-cotton scarves I’d
woven many times tended to shrink more in the wetdirection than in the warp direction. I wanted to determine exactly
how much that might happen with this scar, so (never my avorite
plan) I decided it was important to sample. I wove and nished a
short sample; see Photo a.
Concluding that this time or some reason (it might have been wise to
think about the “some reason” a little more) these materials had the
opposite eect, I wove a rst scar so that the design “squares” were
taller than they were wide; see Photo b at let and Photo d, page 8. An
unwelcome surprise was that washing and ulling this scar urther
elongated the squares and circles; see Photo c!
A new conclusion! Fabrics have a tendency to shrink more in the
direction o their smaller measurement. My original sample was shorterthan it was wide; a scar is a lot longer than it is wide. aking this
principle into account or the project scar on page 6, I wove the design
squares shorter than wide; see Photo e, page 8. Te pued circles are
close to round, and the design squares are square in the nal scar.
Structure Pl w.
Equipment
4-sht lm, 15" w wth; 10-t r; 2 shuttls;
2 whts r lt sls.
YarnsWrp wt: 18/2 mr wl (5,040 /lb), JrSpu
Supr Mr), S, 740 . 20/2 wl (4,570 /lb, Mr,
Glmkr USA, 1,035 /3.5 z), t #2082, 720 .
Warp Length
187 s 4 l (llws 3" r tk-up 27" r lm wst).
Setts
Warp: 10 p r r mr, but 18 p r t wl; s
t rr Fur 1, p 8.
Weft: 13 pcks r mr pr ch 13 ⁄ 8" strp 13 pcks t
wl pr ch 1 ⁄ 2" strp.
Dimensions
Wth th r: 141 ⁄ 2". W lth (msur ur ts
th lm): but 114". Fsh sz tr wsh ull:
61 ⁄ 2" × 57".
a.
b.
a. in e fulled ample, degn quare are orer an
ey are wde. b. te fr carf wa woven w degn
quare aller an wde. c. te reul afer fullng wa
degn quare aller an ey are wde. More rnkage
occurred n e drecon of e malle meauremen.
c.
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h w s m
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e.
d.
f.
. t u
u (u u
, u k
m , mm
).. t m
k
, qu
j
y (2 k m
m m ).
. w m m
m, x
mmy
m u .
W wrp 187 s 4 l llw Fur 2. Ctr r 14 1 ⁄ 2,
us ur prrr mth t thr th shts sl th r llw
Fur 1 (r mr s t 1/t; t wl s t 2/t xcpt r th
lst ch t strp t 1/t).
T th wrp t th rt pr r w th scr llw th
trl Fur 1. T mk th t scts crculr, I prss th rst
lst tw r mr pcks cls tthr xt t t strps, but spc
th thr r pcks crull; s Pht . Prss t pcks rml wth th
btr. (Nt tht th t scts, utl b th r mr ts, r
shrtr th th r tll. E th, th t crcls th sh scr r
slhtl l th wrp rct. I u wsh t xprmt, u cul tr 11
t pcks r ch sct st 13.) Crr th r mr wt rm
sct t sct wthut cutt. Fr ch rst r mr pck, I tr
th shuttl ur th t sl t strt (ls xt ur) th
r succss pcks tr r th t sl xt ur t.
Cut th t wt tr ch us: tk t wt tls ru th lt
sl bck t th sm sh, trmm t th th sc t
wrp strp. Pck th clth bm wth stur ppr t prtct th ls
trlcmts.
T trm w lth (but 114 r ths scr), t tht th sh
scr wll shrk t lss th hl ts wth th r but hl ts w
lth, (p r sh). Wh u h sh w,
rm th scr rm th lm crull, llw but 6 uw wrp
t ch . T th 6 wrp lth rm ch wrp strp rh
kt su st th rst (r lst) r pck. Th t th thrs rm
ch wrp strp t th sm thrs t th thr th scr t mk r, sur csstt shrk l th scr’s lth.
Wsh th scr b h ht wtr wth smll mut sh sp r Orus
Pst. Att l wth ur hs r but 15 muts r utl sr
ull s rch. Cut prt t rs, shp bumps s wth ur -
rs, l th scr t utl r. Cut f r r mr sct t
ch , crt scllp ru th rst rw bumps.
1
2
4
3
1. Draft
2. Warp color order
1 1
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
GG
GG GG
G
T
T
T
T
T
TT
T
T
2 2 2
3 33
4 4 4
6x6x
5x
60x
6x
5x
6x 7x
33 15
13139196
187
= floating selvedge (green merino)
= sley in one dent
green merino
tan wool
6x
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Basketweave ScarvesIn Wool Singles and Laceweight Yarns by Liz Gipson
bk uu uu - m. F u
-- uu .
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h w s m
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B
asketweave is like plain weave except that two
threads work together in both warp and wet. You
can go arther! Te ner the yarn, the more ends youcan put in one slot or hole o a rigid heddle.
Weaving the ScarvesWind the warp and dress the loom ollowing the directions on
this page or the white scar or page 11 or the purple scar.
o wind a shuttle with 2 threads, use a ball winder to
make a 21 ⁄ 2 ounce center-pull ball. Use both ends rom the
ball as 1 (1 rom the center, 1 rom the outside) to wind
doubled strands o wet on a stick shuttle. I you are using
tripled ends, wind rom two balls and use 1 end rom one
ball and 2 ends rom the other.It is important that the ends are pulled onto the shuttle
under similar tension. For instance, winding 1 end rom a
skein on a swit and 1 rom a center-pull ball will cause the
yarns to unwind rom the shuttle unevenly.
Weave a ew inches with scrap yarn to spread the warp.
Weave a ew picks with the white or purple wet leaving a
1 yd tail. Hemstitch using the tail, including 2 picks and 2
warp threads in each stitch. Continue weaving or 85.
Finish with hemstitching as at the beginning.
FinishingRemove the scar rom the loom by untying the warp rom
the back and ront apron rods. (Leaving the warp ringe long
will help keep it rom raying and makes trimming the
nished ringe easier to do.) Remove scrap yarn. Wash by
hand or machine, gentle cycle, with delicate soap. Straighten
the ringe and hang the scar to dry.
Using a rotary cutter, trim the ringe to 3–4". he ends
will naturally twist together in the direction in which thesingles yarn was spun, creating the appearance o a twisted
ringe.
TIP: o wind doubled threads, pull both ends rom a center-pull ball, one orm the outside, one rom the inside.
Good to know: Some wools eel rough to the touch. Tis can be due to the spinning oilsused during the manuacturing process or the sizing used to protect the yarns on the cone.Once the yarn is washed, many seemingly “scratchy” yarns will soten and bloom.
White Scarf
Structure
Bsktw.
EquipmentR-hl lm, 10" w wth; 8-t r hl;
1 stck shuttl.
YarnsWrp wt: wl sls (1,800 /lb, Brtlttrs,
Hlc), wht, 824 .
Warp Length
78 ubl s 3 l (llws 24" r tk-up lm
wst).
Setts
Wrp: 8 p.
Wt: 7 pp.
Dimensions
Wth th r: 9". W lth: 85". Fsh sz tr
wsh: 8" × 78" wth 4” r t ch .
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Purple Scarf
Structure Bsktw.
EquipmentR-hl lm, 10"
w wth; 8-t
r hl; 1 stck shuttl.
YarnsWrp wt: 20/2 wl
(4,700 /lb, Mr,
Glmkr USA), purpl,
#2059, 1,243 .
Warp Length
74 trpl s 3 l
(llws 22" r tk-up
lm wst).
Setts
Wrp: 8 p.
Wt: 8 pp.
Dimensions
Wth th r: 9 1 ⁄ 4".
W lth: 85".
Fsh sz tr wsh:
8 1 ⁄ 4" × 77" wth 3" ktt
r t ch .
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h w s m
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Felted Lace Scar In Superfne Merino by Madelyn van der Hoogt
This scarf is pure fun! It’s quick-and-easy plain weave with only one shuttle—and every other inch in both the warp
and the weft is an empty space. During wet finishing, the soft, loosely woven merino wool fulls to a felted texture,
producing two independent but interlocking woven grids of small plain-weave sections. The raw edges can be
trimmed as desired and still remain secure.
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h w s m
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N o yarn o my experience ulls as beautiully as Jag-
gerSpun’s Superine Merino. I use it in almost all
handwovens that eature eects rom dierentialshrinkage between yarns, and it is especially ideal or hand-
wovens in which a elted but supple and sot texture is re-
quired. Tis scar is deliciously light and sot to the touch, yet
the bers are elted enough that you can cut away any element
you don’t like without ear o raveling. I was strongly tempted
to narrow the elted foat areas between plain-weave sections
by just cutting them away!
Te Structure Although the weave structure is identied as plain weave,
it could be argued that it is actually a doubleweave.
Essentially, groups o warp threads on shats 1 and 2
alternate with groups o warp threads on shats 3 and 4
(19 threads in each group). For 19 picks each, plain weave
is woven rst in the groups threaded on shats 1 and 2 and
then in the groups threaded on shats 3 and 4.
Tese two plain-weave treadlings (separated by 1"
spaces) alternate throughout. I you were to cut away the
warp and wet threads rom either “group,” the others
would remain as an independent abric with sections o
plain weave separated by (very) long foats.
Further ExplorationTis abric would make wonderul shawls and could also be
used or vests or other decorative over-garments. Te scar
uses only one color, but the two “layers” could contrast in hue
and/or value or several colors in two contrasting colorways
could be used. Because the edges o each section o plain weave
are secure rom ulling, any abric woven in this technique can
be shaped in interesting ways by trimming.
. a 19 k
. t m . p-
u 1 2 - u
3 4 .
Structure Pl w.
Equipment4-sht lm, 17" w wth; 10-t r; 1 shuttl;
1 w spcr 1" × 19" r lr; smth, stur ppr
19" w l uh t pck bth th wrp bm th
clth bm r but 3 ch.
YarnsWrp wt: 18/2 mr wl (5,040 /lb,
JrSpu Supr Mr), Blck, 1,155 .
Warp Length
171 s 4 l (llws 5" r tk-up, 31" r lm wst).
SettsWrp: 91 ⁄ 2 p (19 s 10 ts ltrt wth
10 mpt ts.
Wt: 19 pcks pr 7 ⁄ 8" ltrt wth 13 ⁄ 8 mpt spc.
DimensionsWth th r: 17".
W lth (msur ur ts th lm): 109".
Fsh sz tr wsh ull: 8" × 63".
11 1 1
22
S
S
S
3
4 4
/
/
/
/
/
/
9x
4x
*
*= insert stick
(omit at end
of last repeat)
= 10 empty dents
9x
25x
1
2
9x
1
3
4 4
9x
*
9x
1. Draft for black scarf
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h w s m
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W wrp 171 s 4 l.
T us rt-t-bck wrp
mth: Ctr r 17, sl 19
s 2/t 10-t r; sl
th lst sl. *Skp 10 ts
sl th xt 19 s th sm
w. Rpt rm * utl sc-
ts 19 s h b sl.
Thr th shts llw Fur 1,
t th wrp t th bck pr r,
bm th wrp wth t-
s. (I us scts smth
h ppr 19 × 24 t pck th
wrp bm. As th urll ur
w, I us th sm pcs t
pck th clth bm. Th ltrt
strps wrp thrs mpt
spcs mk pck th clth bmmprtt r mt t-
s ll th wrp thrs.)
T th wrp t th rt pr r
(t ch wrp strp sprtl). Al-
lw but 4 uw wrp,
rs shts 1 4 srt th
spcr. Th b w th rst
19-pck wt strp llw Fur 1
(ltrt trls 1 2). Prss
th rst 2 pcks rml st th
spcr, but w th rm 17
pcks wth rltl tl bt
(but 7 ⁄ 8). Rm th spcr, -
c th wrp, rsrt th
spcr rs shts 1 4. W
th xt strp, ltrt trls 3
4. Prss th rst 2 pcks rml
st th spcr (ls push th
spcr xt t th lst pck th pr-
us strp). Th w th rm-
17 pcks wth rltl tl
bt. Ctu, ltrt th tw
strps pl w rm
rsrt th spcr. T kp
trck, I mrk r sx strps
(but 131 ⁄ 2) wth smll st p
w ht ths th wth lst pl-w sct
us shts 1 2.
Gtl rm th scr rm th
lm. T twst r us
wrp strp r ch r. (Yu c
us th twst r s th r r
ur scr r u c trm f ll r
tr ull s I r ths scr.)
Prpr r s Pht c. T wt
sh, llw th stps us b Br-
br Hrbstr r hr shwl th
Jur/Fbrur 2009 ssu
Handwoven (ps 44–46): Ht
wtr lr pt utl t just b-
s t smmr. Submr th scr
llw t st r 4 muts wth
tt. A 1 tblsp lqu
sh sp th trsr th c-
tts th pt t sk r plstc
tub t whch u h but
3 ht tp wtr. Att r 5
muts wth w sp
th wth ur hs (wh th
wtr s cl uh t hl th
scr). Att (crull m th
whl scr bul ru th
wtr l) utl th scr rchsth ull txtur u lk (but -
t muts r ths scr).
Trm th twst r up t th rst
lst rws pl w bth
s ( sr). Trm ls r
rrulr thrs rm prt
th scr s u lk. Th ull
thrs wll t rl!
1
2
3 4
5
6
. w m m m, , y mu y y. . t mk u u
m uu , m m
. (i yu ’ u ’ , y y u, k .)
b c
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h w s m
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h
a 1 1
2a
S
S
S
3
4 4
a
aa
bb
b
9x
4x
*
* = insert stick
(omit at end
of last repeat)
= 10 empty dents
(omit at end
of last repeat)
= light green, pink, or rust
9x
25x
a
a= light blue, orange, or tealb
bb b
9x
*
9x
F
u w
s; Handwoven, M/
a 2009, 64–65:
. s c (k)
pumk (); .
i u ,
c (u)
pk ();
, s
( ) i bu
( u).
. l u m ; . l u m m m
; . pk u mm.
2. Draft forscarves inPhotos d–h
Materials for scarves in
Photos d–h:
a 4 y :
• 152 ends = 608 yd for warp (304y u )
• 932 picks = 415 yd for weft (208 y u
• Total yardage per scarf: 512 yd
Fr th clr scrs, llw th -
structs r th blck scr, xcpt:
Altrt tw clrs strps 19
s ch th wrp llw Fur 2
r 152 ttl wrp s 15” w
wth. (Th lmt th lst strp
Fur 1 crts smmtrclstrp rrmt.) Yu c cut th
r ur scrs t mk crculr
tbs s r th pk r scr
(s Phts h) r trm s r th
thr scrs.