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A book for the professional ice cream-maker as well as the hobby cook; step-by-step photography accompanies the 60 frozen dessert recipes, all by world-renowned chef Christophe Declerq.

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Page 1: Ice creations issuu
Page 2: Ice creations issuu

Foreword

Basic ingredients: specifications

ICE CREAMBalancing an ice cream recipePreparing an ice cream mixBasic recipes

SORBETBalancing a sorbet recipePreparing a sorbet mixBasic recipes

SEMIFREDDOIce cream parfaitIce cream mousseIce cream soufflé

FINISHING TECHNIQUESFinishing techniques with soft meringueFinishing techniques with a glaze or thickened coulisFinishing techniques with marzipanFinishing techniques with biscuit or biscuits Finishing techniques with chocolate

ICE CREAM DESSERTSICE CREAM LOLLIESICE CREAM CHOCOLATESSAUCES

Explanatory glossary of terms

5

9

17182330

41434548

53545959

61638199

113133

151161171187

190

Page 3: Ice creations issuu

Foreword

Basic ingredients: specifications

ICE CREAMBalancing an ice cream recipePreparing an ice cream mixBasic recipes

SORBETBalancing a sorbet recipePreparing a sorbet mixBasic recipes

SEMIFREDDOIce cream parfaitIce cream mousseIce cream soufflé

FINISHING TECHNIQUESFinishing techniques with soft meringueFinishing techniques with a glaze or thickened coulisFinishing techniques with marzipanFinishing techniques with biscuit or biscuits Finishing techniques with chocolate

ICE CREAM DESSERTSICE CREAM LOLLIESICE CREAM CHOCOLATESSAUCES

Explanatory glossary of terms

5

9

17182330

41434548

53545959

61638199

113133

151161171187

190

Page 4: Ice creations issuu

B A S I C I N G R E D I E N T S : S P E C I F I C A T I O N S 13

AIR

Air gives the following characteristics to the ice cream:the air bubbles determine the airiness and firmness of theice cream;softens the consistency; reduces the feeling of coldness in the mouth; reduces production costs.

The extra air added by ice cream turbines (sometimes known asdashers) can increase the volume by between 100 % and 140 % (1 litreof ice cream weighs between 450 g and 600 g). Exceptionally, somemanufacturers produce premium ice cream that weighs around800 g per litre of volume.With traditional ‘craft’ ice cream, the average volume increase isaround 40 % (1 litre of ice cream weighs +/- 750 g).

The calculation for the volume increase (overrun) of ice cream ismade as follows:

Example: If one litre of the ice cream mix weighs 1050 g and 1 litreof finished ice cream weighs 750 g, then the ice cream has a volumeincrease rate of 40 %.

STABILIZERS AND EMULSIFIERS

Stabilizers and emulsifiers give the following characteristics to theice cream:

retain moisture and increase the overrun;have a stable structure and texture;reduce ice formation during temperature variations;slow down the rate of melting; emulsify and disperse the fat as small particles in the water (thisonly occurs in fat-rich mixtures at a temperature above 65 °C).

The use of egg yolk (and in particular lecithin), which can haveboth a stabilizing and an emulsifying effect, can be replaced either

in whole or in part by a combination of stabilizers (E410 locustbean gum, E412 guar gum, E407 carrageenan, E466 carboxymethylcellulose, E441 gelatine, E440 pectin(s), E401 sodium alginate, etc.)and emulsifiers (E471 mono- and diglycerides of fatty acids and/oresters of sorbic acid (E200) and/or stearic acid (E570) or polysor-bate 80 (E433)). Because each stabilizer is unique, for commercialpurposes a mixture is usually offered, with the emulsifiers pre-added. This mixture sometimes also contains dextrose, skimmedmilk powder and aromatics.

SUGARS

Sugars gives the following characteristics to the ice cream:a sweet flavour;influences the scoopability and the storage life; lowers the freezing point; influences the melting behaviour and gives a cold feel in themouth;increases the dry matter content.

On average, a dosage of between 12 % and 16 % sucrose is used inthe form of fine crystal sugar. The replacement of 25 % tomaximum 50 % of the sucrose with glucose syrup, glucose powder,dextrose powder or invert sugar (or a combination thereof)increases the shelf life and improves the scoopability of the icecream.The lowering of the freezing point caused by dextrose, fructose,invert sugar and sorbitol is almost twice as high as the loweringcaused by sucrose. Glycerol (E422), which is used to soften the icecream (maximum 1.5 %) and to improve the scoopability, creates a3.7 % lowering of the freezing point in comparison with sucrose.Glucose syrups and their derivatives are all given a DE-value(= dextrose equivalent value). The DE-value determines the sweetnessvalue in relation to the sucrose (with a sweetness value of 100 %).A low DE-value means that less starch is broken down (= relativelylow levels of glucose and maltose and relatively high levels ofdextrin), that the product is less sweet and that its freezing point isrelatively high (which means that the ice cream melts more slowly).These are used in particular as bulking agents for recipes with sugarreplacements or alcoholic additives.A high DE-value means that more starch is broken down (= relativelyhigh levels of glucose and maltose and relatively low levels ofdextrin), that the product is sweeter and that its freezing point isrelatively low (which means that the ice cream melts more quickly).It is possible to replace the sugar with sweeteners such as maltitol,fructose, sorbitol, isomalt, aspartame, maltodextrin, stevia, etc. Inthis case, it is better to use a mix of these sweeteners. It is alsoadvisable to consult a dietician when developing recipes withoutadded sugars.

12 B A S I C I N G R E D I E N T S : S P E C I F I C A T I O N S

the weight of 1 litre of ice creamx 100 = % volume

increase

the weight of 1 litre ice cream mix – the weight of 1 litre of ice cream

750x 100 =

1050 - 750750

x 100 = 40 % volume increase300

Page 5: Ice creations issuu

B A S I C I N G R E D I E N T S : S P E C I F I C A T I O N S 13

AIR

Air gives the following characteristics to the ice cream:the air bubbles determine the airiness and firmness of theice cream;softens the consistency; reduces the feeling of coldness in the mouth; reduces production costs.

The extra air added by ice cream turbines (sometimes known asdashers) can increase the volume by between 100 % and 140 % (1 litreof ice cream weighs between 450 g and 600 g). Exceptionally, somemanufacturers produce premium ice cream that weighs around800 g per litre of volume.With traditional ‘craft’ ice cream, the average volume increase isaround 40 % (1 litre of ice cream weighs +/- 750 g).

The calculation for the volume increase (overrun) of ice cream ismade as follows:

Example: If one litre of the ice cream mix weighs 1050 g and 1 litreof finished ice cream weighs 750 g, then the ice cream has a volumeincrease rate of 40 %.

STABILIZERS AND EMULSIFIERS

Stabilizers and emulsifiers give the following characteristics to theice cream:

retain moisture and increase the overrun;have a stable structure and texture;reduce ice formation during temperature variations;slow down the rate of melting; emulsify and disperse the fat as small particles in the water (thisonly occurs in fat-rich mixtures at a temperature above 65 °C).

The use of egg yolk (and in particular lecithin), which can haveboth a stabilizing and an emulsifying effect, can be replaced either

in whole or in part by a combination of stabilizers (E410 locustbean gum, E412 guar gum, E407 carrageenan, E466 carboxymethylcellulose, E441 gelatine, E440 pectin(s), E401 sodium alginate, etc.)and emulsifiers (E471 mono- and diglycerides of fatty acids and/oresters of sorbic acid (E200) and/or stearic acid (E570) or polysor-bate 80 (E433)). Because each stabilizer is unique, for commercialpurposes a mixture is usually offered, with the emulsifiers pre-added. This mixture sometimes also contains dextrose, skimmedmilk powder and aromatics.

SUGARS

Sugars gives the following characteristics to the ice cream:a sweet flavour;influences the scoopability and the storage life; lowers the freezing point; influences the melting behaviour and gives a cold feel in themouth;increases the dry matter content.

On average, a dosage of between 12 % and 16 % sucrose is used inthe form of fine crystal sugar. The replacement of 25 % tomaximum 50 % of the sucrose with glucose syrup, glucose powder,dextrose powder or invert sugar (or a combination thereof)increases the shelf life and improves the scoopability of the icecream.The lowering of the freezing point caused by dextrose, fructose,invert sugar and sorbitol is almost twice as high as the loweringcaused by sucrose. Glycerol (E422), which is used to soften the icecream (maximum 1.5 %) and to improve the scoopability, creates a3.7 % lowering of the freezing point in comparison with sucrose.Glucose syrups and their derivatives are all given a DE-value(= dextrose equivalent value). The DE-value determines the sweetnessvalue in relation to the sucrose (with a sweetness value of 100 %).A low DE-value means that less starch is broken down (= relativelylow levels of glucose and maltose and relatively high levels ofdextrin), that the product is less sweet and that its freezing point isrelatively high (which means that the ice cream melts more slowly).These are used in particular as bulking agents for recipes with sugarreplacements or alcoholic additives.A high DE-value means that more starch is broken down (= relativelyhigh levels of glucose and maltose and relatively low levels ofdextrin), that the product is sweeter and that its freezing point isrelatively low (which means that the ice cream melts more quickly).It is possible to replace the sugar with sweeteners such as maltitol,fructose, sorbitol, isomalt, aspartame, maltodextrin, stevia, etc. Inthis case, it is better to use a mix of these sweeteners. It is alsoadvisable to consult a dietician when developing recipes withoutadded sugars.

12 B A S I C I N G R E D I E N T S : S P E C I F I C A T I O N S

the weight of 1 litre of ice creamx 100 = % volume

increase

the weight of 1 litre ice cream mix – the weight of 1 litre of ice cream

750x 100 =

1050 - 750750

x 100 = 40 % volume increase300

Page 6: Ice creations issuu

Sorbet

Page 7: Ice creations issuu

Sorbet

Page 8: Ice creations issuu

2

1

CONSTRUCTION

Fill a Flexipan-mould for small oval cakes with an ice cream parfait(1) of white chocolate. Sprinkle with white crispearls.Remove from the mould and keep in the freezer (= the interiors).Line a cooled flexible mould for oval cakes with a passion fruit sor-bet (2) and press the interiors into the middle. Seal off the moulds with another layer of passion fruit sorbet andplace in the freezer.

RECIPES

Passion fruit sorbet (see basic recipe 2 on page 48)

Ice cream parfait of white chocolate (see page 58)

Italian meringue (see Raspberry on page 64)

Hard meringue250 g egg white250 g sugar125 g sugar125 g powder sugar

Beat together the egg white and the largest portion of sugar untilthey form a stiff foam.Add the smaller portion of sugar and beat further.Stir the icing sugar into the foam.Divide the foam into three equal portions.Keep one portion white. Colour the second portion yellow and thethird portion red, using appropriate colorants that are bake-resistant.Place the three portions randomly on a baking mat.

Work the portions into and through each other, so that a marbledeffect is obtained.Dry-bake for 1 hour in an oven at 100 °C to 120 °C.After 1 hour, turn off the oven and allow the meringue to dryfurther in the residual heat.Keep the meringue in a dry place in a well-sealed container.

FINISHING

Remove the ice cream cakes from their moulds and return thembriefly to the freezer.Pipe a floral motif in Italian meringue on the top of each cake.Press pieces of hard, coloured meringue to the sides of each cake.Decorate the tops with a sprig of red currants and a sprinkling ofdecorating sugar.

F L E U R D E M E R I N G U E

74 F I N I S H I N G T E C H N I Q U E S – ( S O F T ) M E R I N G U E F I N I S H I N G T E C H N I Q U E S – ( S O F T ) M E R I N G U E 75

Page 9: Ice creations issuu

2

1

CONSTRUCTION

Fill a Flexipan-mould for small oval cakes with an ice cream parfait(1) of white chocolate. Sprinkle with white crispearls.Remove from the mould and keep in the freezer (= the interiors).Line a cooled flexible mould for oval cakes with a passion fruit sor-bet (2) and press the interiors into the middle. Seal off the moulds with another layer of passion fruit sorbet andplace in the freezer.

RECIPES

Passion fruit sorbet (see basic recipe 2 on page 48)

Ice cream parfait of white chocolate (see page 58)

Italian meringue (see Raspberry on page 64)

Hard meringue250 g egg white250 g sugar125 g sugar125 g powder sugar

Beat together the egg white and the largest portion of sugar untilthey form a stiff foam.Add the smaller portion of sugar and beat further.Stir the icing sugar into the foam.Divide the foam into three equal portions.Keep one portion white. Colour the second portion yellow and thethird portion red, using appropriate colorants that are bake-resistant.Place the three portions randomly on a baking mat.

Work the portions into and through each other, so that a marbledeffect is obtained.Dry-bake for 1 hour in an oven at 100 °C to 120 °C.After 1 hour, turn off the oven and allow the meringue to dryfurther in the residual heat.Keep the meringue in a dry place in a well-sealed container.

FINISHING

Remove the ice cream cakes from their moulds and return thembriefly to the freezer.Pipe a floral motif in Italian meringue on the top of each cake.Press pieces of hard, coloured meringue to the sides of each cake.Decorate the tops with a sprig of red currants and a sprinkling ofdecorating sugar.

F L E U R D E M E R I N G U E

74 F I N I S H I N G T E C H N I Q U E S – ( S O F T ) M E R I N G U E F I N I S H I N G T E C H N I Q U E S – ( S O F T ) M E R I N G U E 75

Page 10: Ice creations issuu

12

4

3

CONSTRUCTION

Half fill a Flexipan-mould for rectangular cakes (with a notch) withcuberdon ice cream (1) (cuberdons are a type of Belgian sweet).Press some small pieces of cuberdon(2) into the ice cream andthen place briefly in the freezer.When hard, fill the remainder of the mould with a second layer ofcuberdon ice cream and return to the freezer.

RECIPES

Cuberdon ice cream 1000 g full-cream milk400 g cream 40 %65 g skimmed milk powder400 g cuberdon paste55 g glucose powder DE 35-409 g stabilizer/emulsifier

Prepare a standard ice cream mix (see page 23).Add the cuberdon paste to the still warm ice cream mix.For this recipe, the percentage of sugar is calculated on the basisof the cuberdon paste.

Passion fruit crisp155 g melted white chocolate40 g puffed rice5 g passion fruit crunch powder*

* Passion fruit crunch is made from concentrated passion fruit juice,maltodextrin and orange pulp.Mix the melted white chocolate with the puffed rice.

Add the passion fruit crunch powder.Roll out immediately (between two sheets of baking paper) to athickness of 3 mm and place briefly in the fridge.Cut into rectangles measuring 4 cm by 12 cm (= 10 bases) and keepin the freezer.

Raspberry glaze165 g raspberry puree without added sugars35 g water2 g gelatine, soaked in cold water

Mix the raspberry puree with the water and heat to 60 °C.Add the soaked gelatine.Use at 15 °C.

Purple spray mixture100 g melted cacao butter100 g melted white chocolatered and blue powdered colorant

Mix together the melted cacao butter and the melted white chocolate.Add the red and blue powdered colorants to this mixture and passthrough a sieve.Using a compressor with a spray pistol, apply a fine layer of thespray mixture to the ice cream cakes.

FINISHING

Press the ice cream cakes out of their flexible moulds, place themon a baking mat and spray them with the purple spray mixture.Place each cake on a passion fruit crisp base (3).Fill the notches in the cakes with the raspberry glaze (4) and placein the freezer.Decorate the top of each cake with a small coloured chocolate (seeBanana on page 117: use powdered red colorant) and blocks ofcuberdon.

C U B E R D O N

90 F I N I S H I N G T E C H N I Q U E S – G L A Z E O R T H I C K E N E D C O U L I S F I N I S H I N G T E C H N I Q U E S – G L A Z E O R T H I C K E N E D C O U L I S 91

Page 11: Ice creations issuu

12

4

3

CONSTRUCTION

Half fill a Flexipan-mould for rectangular cakes (with a notch) withcuberdon ice cream (1) (cuberdons are a type of Belgian sweet).Press some small pieces of cuberdon(2) into the ice cream andthen place briefly in the freezer.When hard, fill the remainder of the mould with a second layer ofcuberdon ice cream and return to the freezer.

RECIPES

Cuberdon ice cream 1000 g full-cream milk400 g cream 40 %65 g skimmed milk powder400 g cuberdon paste55 g glucose powder DE 35-409 g stabilizer/emulsifier

Prepare a standard ice cream mix (see page 23).Add the cuberdon paste to the still warm ice cream mix.For this recipe, the percentage of sugar is calculated on the basisof the cuberdon paste.

Passion fruit crisp155 g melted white chocolate40 g puffed rice5 g passion fruit crunch powder*

* Passion fruit crunch is made from concentrated passion fruit juice,maltodextrin and orange pulp.Mix the melted white chocolate with the puffed rice.

Add the passion fruit crunch powder.Roll out immediately (between two sheets of baking paper) to athickness of 3 mm and place briefly in the fridge.Cut into rectangles measuring 4 cm by 12 cm (= 10 bases) and keepin the freezer.

Raspberry glaze165 g raspberry puree without added sugars35 g water2 g gelatine, soaked in cold water

Mix the raspberry puree with the water and heat to 60 °C.Add the soaked gelatine.Use at 15 °C.

Purple spray mixture100 g melted cacao butter100 g melted white chocolatered and blue powdered colorant

Mix together the melted cacao butter and the melted white chocolate.Add the red and blue powdered colorants to this mixture and passthrough a sieve.Using a compressor with a spray pistol, apply a fine layer of thespray mixture to the ice cream cakes.

FINISHING

Press the ice cream cakes out of their flexible moulds, place themon a baking mat and spray them with the purple spray mixture.Place each cake on a passion fruit crisp base (3).Fill the notches in the cakes with the raspberry glaze (4) and placein the freezer.Decorate the top of each cake with a small coloured chocolate (seeBanana on page 117: use powdered red colorant) and blocks ofcuberdon.

C U B E R D O N

90 F I N I S H I N G T E C H N I Q U E S – G L A Z E O R T H I C K E N E D C O U L I S F I N I S H I N G T E C H N I Q U E S – G L A Z E O R T H I C K E N E D C O U L I S 91

Page 12: Ice creations issuu

CONSTRUCTION

Pour the cooled crèmeux of white chocolate, passion fruit andalmonds into a glass dish and place in the fridge. Add the cherry beer sorbet and a red macaroon ice-lolly in themiddle.

RECIPES

Crèmeux of white chocolate, passion fruit andalmonds130 g passion fruit puree without added sugars70 g almond milk 100 g egg yolk100 g white chocolate100 g butter

Bring the passion fruit puree and almond milk to the boil.Beat the egg yolk loose.Pour part of the boiling puree mixture onto the loose-beaten eggyolk and mix thoroughly.Pour the resulting mixture into a cooking pot and heat between80 °C and 85 °C.Immediately add the white chocolate (Callets, blocks or pieces)and mix thoroughly.Allow this cream to cool to 40 °C.Add the soft butter and mix briefly, but with vigour.Keep in the fridge.

Cherry beer sorbet750 g cherry beer (‘Kriek Max’)100 g raspberry puree without added sugars140 g sugar30 g glucose powder5 g sorbet stabilizer

Boil the cherry beer until it has a Brix-value of 15.Prepare the sorbet further in the standard manner (see page 45).

Place the cherry beer sorbet into a flexible mould for round cakesand place in the freezer.Place a lolly stick in the middle of each one.

Lolly of macaroon Recipe, see page 115.Pipe the macaroon mixture in blobs onto baking mats and place alolly stick in the middle of each one.Allow to dry for 30 minutes.Bake for about 16 minutes at 150 °C.

FINISHING

Decorate the glass dishes with a little bresilienne.

152 I C E C R E A M D E S S E R T S

C E R I S E

I C E C R E A M D E S S E R T S 153

CONSTRUCTION

Half fill the glass dishes with the lime and rum sorbet. Place in thefreezer.Add a few blocks of mint jelly to the lime and rum sorbet.Fill up the glass dishes to within 1 cm of the rim with a furtherlayer of lime and rum sorbet. Return to the freezer.

RECIPES

Lime and rum sorbet120 g sugar60 g glucose powder90 g maltodextrin4 g stabilizer for sorbet450 g drinking water160 g lime puree120 g rum

Mix together the sugar, glucose powder, maltodextrin and thestabilizer.Heat the water to 65 °C, add the dry ingredients, and heat furtherto 85 °C.

Add the lime puree and the rum.Allow to mature for 20 minutes at 4 °C.Pass through the ice cream machine.

Mint jelly250 g water30 g raw cane sugar10 g mint leaves4 g agar agarpowdered green colorant2 g gelatine, soaked in cold water

Bring the water and the raw cane sugar to the boil.Add the fresh mint leaves and allow to soak for 10 minutes.Pass through a fine sieve and add the agar agar.Bring the sieved fluid back to the boil.Add a little powdered green colorant and the gelatine.Immediately pour the jelly into a shallow dish, so that a 1 cm thicklayer is formed. Allow to cool.Cut the mint jelly into blocks and keep in the freezer.

FINISHING

Decorate each glass dish with some blocks of mint jelly, a sprig offresh mint and a pipette filled with rum.

M O J I T O

Page 13: Ice creations issuu

CONSTRUCTION

Pour the cooled crèmeux of white chocolate, passion fruit andalmonds into a glass dish and place in the fridge. Add the cherry beer sorbet and a red macaroon ice-lolly in themiddle.

RECIPES

Crèmeux of white chocolate, passion fruit andalmonds130 g passion fruit puree without added sugars70 g almond milk 100 g egg yolk100 g white chocolate100 g butter

Bring the passion fruit puree and almond milk to the boil.Beat the egg yolk loose.Pour part of the boiling puree mixture onto the loose-beaten eggyolk and mix thoroughly.Pour the resulting mixture into a cooking pot and heat between80 °C and 85 °C.Immediately add the white chocolate (Callets, blocks or pieces)and mix thoroughly.Allow this cream to cool to 40 °C.Add the soft butter and mix briefly, but with vigour.Keep in the fridge.

Cherry beer sorbet750 g cherry beer (‘Kriek Max’)100 g raspberry puree without added sugars140 g sugar30 g glucose powder5 g sorbet stabilizer

Boil the cherry beer until it has a Brix-value of 15.Prepare the sorbet further in the standard manner (see page 45).

Place the cherry beer sorbet into a flexible mould for round cakesand place in the freezer.Place a lolly stick in the middle of each one.

Lolly of macaroon Recipe, see page 115.Pipe the macaroon mixture in blobs onto baking mats and place alolly stick in the middle of each one.Allow to dry for 30 minutes.Bake for about 16 minutes at 150 °C.

FINISHING

Decorate the glass dishes with a little bresilienne.

152 I C E C R E A M D E S S E R T S

C E R I S E

I C E C R E A M D E S S E R T S 153

CONSTRUCTION

Half fill the glass dishes with the lime and rum sorbet. Place in thefreezer.Add a few blocks of mint jelly to the lime and rum sorbet.Fill up the glass dishes to within 1 cm of the rim with a furtherlayer of lime and rum sorbet. Return to the freezer.

RECIPES

Lime and rum sorbet120 g sugar60 g glucose powder90 g maltodextrin4 g stabilizer for sorbet450 g drinking water160 g lime puree120 g rum

Mix together the sugar, glucose powder, maltodextrin and thestabilizer.Heat the water to 65 °C, add the dry ingredients, and heat furtherto 85 °C.

Add the lime puree and the rum.Allow to mature for 20 minutes at 4 °C.Pass through the ice cream machine.

Mint jelly250 g water30 g raw cane sugar10 g mint leaves4 g agar agarpowdered green colorant2 g gelatine, soaked in cold water

Bring the water and the raw cane sugar to the boil.Add the fresh mint leaves and allow to soak for 10 minutes.Pass through a fine sieve and add the agar agar.Bring the sieved fluid back to the boil.Add a little powdered green colorant and the gelatine.Immediately pour the jelly into a shallow dish, so that a 1 cm thicklayer is formed. Allow to cool.Cut the mint jelly into blocks and keep in the freezer.

FINISHING

Decorate each glass dish with some blocks of mint jelly, a sprig offresh mint and a pipette filled with rum.

M O J I T O