impression - fredric h. rubel jewelers

A T U F T S C O M M U N I C A T I O N S F I N E J E W E L R Y P U B L I C A T I O N

AUTUMN/HOLIDAY 2013 • ISSUE 2

M A G A Z I N E

Impressionmaking anWomen feel pretty in

Penny Preville

The Invincible World of Rolex There’s Something About Cate Beauty in Contrast Hollywood’s Reach Fall Fashion Colors

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F R E D R I C H . R U B E L M A G A Z I N E • A U T U M N / H O L I D A Y 2 0 1 3

9 2 4 T H E S H O P S A T M I S S I O N V I E J O • M I S S I O N V I E J O , C A • 9 4 9 3 6 4 3 5 3 5

2 4 6 F O R E S T A V E N U E • L A G U N A B E A C H , C A • 9 4 9 4 9 4 3 5 1 3

Warmest personal greetings from all of us at Fredric H. Rubel Jewelers.

This year we look forward to the opportunity to share with you our passion for exquisite jewelry. We are pleased to present our

second edition of Fredric H. Rubel Magazine.

Year after year, we endeavor to stay ahead of the latest jewelry and watch industry trends and innovations, while staying true to our

high standards and objectives: to give the utmost attention to customer service, to provide knowledgeable sales assistance and guidance

in a friendly and truthful manner, and to offer great value and unsurpassed quality with every purchase. We pride ourselves in our com-

mitment to our customers and each other. We are dedicated to creating an experience that allows those who visit our store to enter as

customers, but leave as members of the Rubel family.

Couture jewelry retailers make up only one half of one percent of all the jewelers in the country. We are proud to be recognized as

one of these jewelers. As a Couture jeweler, we are invited to work with an exceptionally talented group of internationally renowned

designers and luxury brands. We strive to provide our customers with the world’s most unique styles and designs, made with the highest

level of craftsmanship. At Fredric H. Rubel Jewelers, you don’t have to settle for the ordinary because you can attain the extraordinary.

The Rubel family and staff welcome the opportunity to help you select the perfect gift to honor those who give special meaning to

your life. We treasure the experience of being part of your celebrations, from generation to generation.

In closing, may this coming year be one of good health, joyous occasions and prosperity. Many of you have been loyal customers and

friends for a long time. We are grateful for your continuing friendship and patronage. As always, we appreciate the experience of sharing

your personal celebrations. We look forward to seeing you soon!

With gratitude,

The Rubel Family

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Todd Tufts • Editor in Chief/Publisher/Creative DirectorCarol Besler • Assistant Editorial Director Larry Stuart • Art Director

Stephen Lewis • Assistant Copy Editor Vence Vida • Production Manager/DesignerRon Saltiel/RSP Media • Select Jewelry Photography

*Prices subject to change. Please contact the store for current pricing and availability.

Fredric H. Rubel Jewelers Magazine is published by Tufts Communications, 1201 E. 5th Street, Suite 1009 • Anderson, IN 46012T: 765-608-3081 • E: [email protected] • © 2013, Tufts Communications. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA.

I S S U E T W O • F R E D R I C H . R U B E L M A G A Z I N E

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contents

3 Welcome

9 The Invincible World of Rolex

12 Good Karma, Great Style

15 Beauty in Contrast

18 There’s Something About Cate

22 Bold in Gold

26 Making an Impression

30 Ferdinand Porsche

34 The History of Engagement Rings

38 Hollywood’s Reach

36 Fit to be Teed

44 Eileen Fisher for Women

48 Fall Fashion Colors

52 Good Grooming

54 Cufflinks to Karma Beads

56 Amore in Italy’s Wine Country

F R E D R I C H . R U B E L M A G A Z I N E [9

the invincible world of

From tennis champions to underwater explorers, Rolex makes timepieces for those who test the limits.

b y C A R O L B E S L E R

The new Cosmograph Daytona, with ice-blue dial and platinum case is a collector’s piece.

designer spotlight

10] F R E D R I C H . R U B E L M A G A Z I N E

TThe world of Rolex is all about performance. The company uses

high-grade 904L steel, which is much harder than the industry

standard (the company designed its own tools to work with it) and

manufactures its own ceramic bezels — and of course, builds its

own movements. The result is that Rolex watches are engineered

for performance and live up to the name of the world’s most

famous watch brand. But Rolex is also about celebrating the per-

formance of others. Many of the world’s top athletes have served

or currently serve as Rolex ambassadors, and the brand is associat-

ed with some of the world’s most important sporting events, from

Wimbledon Tennis to the US Open Golf Championship.

Rolex is the Official Timekeeper of the Wimbledon Championships, a Global Partner of Formula 1 racing, Official Timekeeper of the U.S. Open Golf Championship and, in the equestrian world, sponsor of the Rolex Grand Slam of Show Jumping: CHIO Aachen, the CSIO Spruce Meadows Masters Tournament and CHI Geneva. Rolex also sponsors sever-al yachting events, including the Maxi Yacht Rolex Cup and the Rolex Swan Cup, both off the coast of Sardinia, the Rolex Fastnet Race in the Celtic Sea and the Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race in Australia. This extensive involvement in the world of sports is reinforced

by an impressive roster of brand ambassadors, including cham-

pion golfers Adam Scott and Tiger Woods, racing legend Tom

Kristensen, tennis great Roger Federer, Yachtsman Paul Cayard

and equestrian Meredith Michaels-Beerbaum.

Rolex also has a roster of high-performance timepieces to match

the prowess of these champions. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual

Cosmograph Daytona is one of the brand’s most important new

models this year. The distinctive ice-blue dial is only available on

the brand’s platinum editions, including the new Daytona. To

date, there have only been four others issued with this combina-

tion, making it something rare and collectible. The Daytona was

originally introduced in 1963, and was a favorite of Paul Newman.

The Rolex Yachtmaster II, with an advanced countdown system.


The Oyster Perpetual GMT Master II is another important new introduction, in

904L steel, a proprietary Rolex high-grade steel, with a rotating bezel that represents

a first: it is made of a two-color ceramic Cerachrom bezel insert in blue and black rep-

resenting day and night. The two colors are perfectly melded together, with no visible

seam between the two, by a unique process developed and patented by Rolex which

allows this ceramic component with two distinct colors to be produced as a single piece.

Cerachrom is scratch-proof, corrosion-resistant and color-fast. The movement, made by

Rolex, has a Parachrom hairspring patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive

alloy. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the Parachrom hairspring offers great stability when

exposed to temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise in case of

shocks than a traditional hairspring.

It is the perfect watch for the adventurers who inhabit the world of Rolex.

Rolex has equipped numerous expeditions over the years with Oyster

watches developing professional models — veritable tool-watches

whose functions go beyond simply telling time. These watches

were intended for specialists — divers, pilots, mountaineers, sci-

entists and cavers — and all those who share similar passions.

The brand has sponsored many expeditions, including to the

Marianas Trench, Mount Everest and both the North and

South Pole.

Finally, Ladies’ watches are an important part of the

world of Rolex, and the new Oyster Perpetual Lady

Datejust Pearlmaster is testament to the brand’s crafts-

manship. The case and bracelet are made of 18k Everose

gold, created by Rolex in its own foundry, with a bezel and

bracelet links in 18k white gold. Both bezel and bracelet

links are exquisitely set with diamonds, while the dial is

adorned with black or white mother-of-pearl and features a

lotus flower motif in a pink-gold tone.

It was a Lady Datejust Pearlmaster Chronometer that Rolex

ambassador Cecilia Bartoli wore when she sang at a gala concert in

Salzburg in 2006 celebrating the 250th anniversary of Mozart’s birth.

The Oyster Perpetual Day-Date Sertie, in 18k gold, set with diamonds

and mother-of-pearl.

The Rolex Lady Datejust Pearlsmaster, in 18k gold, with an automatic movement.

Aaron Basha Boutique • 685 Madison Avenue • NYC • 212.935.1960 • www.aaronbasha.com

This season, Aaron Basha, the luxury jeweler known best for their whimsical and unique creations, introduces the newest additions to their trendsetting “Evil Eye” collection. Modern masterpieces mixed with mystical allure, Aaron Basha’s enchanting “Evil Eye” designs truly define artful opulence and are a symbol of protection.

Beautifully hand-crafted, the tempting talismans are adorned in enamel and diamonds set in 18k gold shedding a stunning light on their fabled power. Aaron Basha reveals a fresh translation of this timeless concept. The new collection features a pave diamond “Evil Eye” strung from twinkling chains of 18k gold, and the popular symbol represented in contemporary styles fastened to an elegant silk cord.

The Evil Eye Collection has captured the attention of celebrities, socialites and trendsetters worldwide. Spirited and radiant, shimmering and sultry, the elegant “Evil Eye” collection combines ancient protection with cutting-edge style.

The complete Aaron Basha Evil Eye Collection is available at the Aaron Basha flagship boutique in Manhattan, and many other Aaron Basha fine jewelry retail partners worldwide.

Good

Karma Great

STYLE the Evil Eye Collection


designer spotlight

Aaron Basha advertisement: Fredric Rubel Magazine 2013

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beauty in

contrast

D A V I D Y U R M A N

b y C Y N T H I A U N N I N A Y A R

Dree Hemingway, wearing a ring from the new collection, appears in the Fall 2013 campaign.

David and wife Sybil Yurman hosted supermodel Kate Upton, who wore a David Yurman gold and diamond Starburst linked

bracelet, Starburst cluster ring and Starburst drop earrings, at the launch of his Fall 2013 campaign.

Fans of David Yurman jewelry and watches have something

to look forward to this fall. The iconic American brand is

introducing a collection of stylish new products, with a

stunning campaign to match.

TTo kick off the brand’s new jewelry lines, David Yurman

is debuting its Fall 2013 lifestyle campaign, which features

Kate Upton, Dree Hemingway, Anais Mali, and Catrinel

Marlon. Shot by renowned photographer Peter Lindbergh,

the new campaign is entitled Beauty in Contrast, and has

been designed to capture the signature elegance and relaxed

American luxury of David Yurman.

“Through design, styling, and imagery, we tell a story of

contrast in all its mesmerizing beauty,” says founder David

Yurman. “Beauty is always more intriguing in contrast.” With

Beauty in Contrast, the brand celebrates the fall season with

a range of diverse elements that coexist in a delicate balance.

“Elegant and refined pieces are the perfect counterpoint to

earthy and artisanal designs. New collections are coupled

with iconic favorites, where minimalism and abundance

mingle effortlessly.”

designer spotlight


The campaign captures a wide range of the style and

character of its models: the easy, all-American warmth of

Kate Upton, the cool, global sophistication of Anais Mali,

the patrician refinement of Dree Hemingway, and the

mysterious sensuality of Catrinel Marlon. Each of these

remarkable women are styled in a contemporary com-

bination of the brand’s legendary selections from its Fall

2013 collection, which includes Willow and the new mini

version of the David Yurman Signature Pinky Ring. The

stylistic juxtaposition of minimalism and abundance are

seen throughout the campaign. “Graceful, feminine designs

is the counterpoint to masculine, artisanal creations.”

“Through design, styling, and imagery, we tell a

story of contrast in all its mesmerizing beauty,” says

founder David Yurman. “Beauty is always more

intriguing in contrast.”

Anais Mali showcases David Yurman jewelry in the new Beauty in Contrast campaign.

One of the new collections for Fall 2013, Willow is represented

by a variety of pieces, such as the Five-Row Bypass Bracelet

with pavé diamonds in 18k gold. 18k yellow gold and black onyx Wheaton ring.

designer spotlight

Black onyx bead chain with pearls and citrine

in 18k yellow gold.


Inspired by the delicate flowering stems of willow, the Willow

collection includes a line of lyrical designs in bracelets, pendants,

necklaces, rings and earrings. Slender, featherlike stalks are sculpted

from the iconic cable into graceful and feminine shapes of silver and

gold accented with pavé diamonds.

Since its founding in New York in 1980, David Yurman has become

known as America’s leading fine jewelry and timepiece brand. It fea-

tures a range of signature gold and silver designs, as well as diamond,

pearl, and gemstone jewelry. Over the last few years, the brand’s

American-designed, Swiss-made watch collec-

tions have become renowned for capturing

the essence of relaxed American luxury.

“We’re an American company, designing

watches in America for the American

sensibility,” says Evan Yurman, son of

founders David and Sybil Yurman, and

head of the company’s watch division.

The stylistic juxtaposition of minimalism and abundance is seen throughout the campaign. Graceful, feminine designs are the counterpoint to masculine, artisanal creations.

An image from David Yurman’s new Beauty in Contrast campaign,

featuring Catrinel Marlon.

Moonstone, silver and 18k gold Cable Coil earrings, necklace, and ring.

exclusive interview


There’sSomething AboutCate Ever since Cate Blanchett and her husband took over as the artistic directors of the Sydney Theatre Company in 2008, she’s pulled back the reins on her movie career. She aced supporting roles in Hannah (2011) and Robin Hood (2010) as well The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey (2012), but the last film she headlined was 2007’s Elizabeth: The Golden Age. With Blue Jasmine, Blanchett is back in a big way. The actress plays the title role in the Woody Allen film, a hard-core drama which has already racked up rave reviews.

A huge fan of Allen’s, Blanchett only spoke to the filmmaker by phone for about three minutes before, essentially, agreeing to do the role. “When you get a call from Woody, you take it,” says Blanchett, 44. “You’ve already said yes before you know what it is, so you just hope it’s a good one. Of course, these films are never less than fascinating. “I’d given up hope of ever working with him; I just thought he wasn’t interested. But the minute I read it, [I knew] the script was fantastic. It is impeccably structured. It’s absurd and tragic, often simultaneously.” As the title character, Blanchett brings to life a woman whose charmed existence as a Hamptons socialite comes crashing down around her. After her financial fraudster husband (Alec Baldwin) is imprisoned, Jasmine is left with no money and no place to go. Still retaining her snobby ways, she winds up sharing an apartment in San Francisco with her working-class sister Ginger (Sally Hawkins) and Ginger’s boyfriend (Bobby Cannavale). Jasmine gets a job with a lecherous dentist (Michael Stuhlbarg) and pins her hopes of finding a white knight on a wealthy diplomat (Peter Sarsgaard). Louis C.K., Tammy Blanchard, Max Casella, Alden Ehrenreich, and Andrew Dice Clay co-star. After anticipating what it would be like to work with Allen for so many years, Blanchett says the reality was better than she imagined. “I had heard that [Allen] was monosyllabic, at best, in relation to the direction he gave actors, but when I asked him questions, he responded if the questions were interesting, and if they weren’t, he waved me off and went back to his Blackberry. “But he was great. I think he really despised and revered Jasmine. And I think he was fascinated by her. He’s fascinated by and loves women — their exuberance, their intelligence, their fears, their phobias.”During one discussion, Blanchett asked Allen how he’d play Jasmine if he were a woman. “He said, `well, if I were playing Jasmine,’ and at this point he got quite Blanche DuBois-like, “ recalls Blanchett. “So I asked him if he considered playing this role, and he thought about it for a minute and a half and said, ‘No, it would have been too comic.’ But I could have easily imagined it. That was a movie that I would go see.” Blanchett might be half-teasing, but early reviews of the film have picked up on the similarities between Blue Jasmine and A Streetcar Named Desire. Strangely enough, Blanchett played Blanche in a 2009 Sydney production of the Tennessee Williams classic. Some reviewers have also noted the parallels between Jasmine and Ruth Madoff, the wife of disgraced money manager Bernie Madoff. But Blanchett cautions against making too much of the connection.

In Indiewire, Anne Thompson predicted that the Best Actress Oscar is “Blanchett’s to lose.” Variety said that the actress’s performance

“is a brilliantly bipolar piece of acting.” And Entertainment Weekly pointed out that Blanchett “makes Jasmine at once ardent, touching,

off-putting, and cracked in her grand delusions.”

i n t e r v i e w w i t h A M Y L O N G S D O R F

She’s been nominated for six Oscars, and she’s won once for playing Hepburn in The Aviator. If she wins for Blue Jasmine, she’ll be in the same company as Diane Keaton (Annie Hall), Mira Sorvino (Mighty Aphrodite), Penelope Cruz (Vicky Christina Barcelona) and Dianne Wiest (Hannah and Her Sisters, Bullets Over Broadway), all of whom have netted Oscars for Woody Allen movies. How would Blanchett rank Jasmine in relation to Allen’s other classic heroines? “I’m not going to go into the ranking thing. I’d think I’m at the bottom, but I’m so privileged to be playing the title role in a Woody Allen film. When you think about Diane Keaton in Annie Hall and Judy Davis [in Husbands and Wives], they’re just brilliant [performances]. [Keaton and Davis helped] create fascinating, unique, shape-shifting, mind-bending characters.” Blanchett’s turn in Blue Jasmine is just the beginning of a rash of film work. In addition to popping up as the elf queen Galadriel in the remaining films in the Hobbit series, she’ll also share the screen with George Clooney in the Clooney-directed The Monuments Men, a World War II-era thriller about the efforts of art historians to reclaim some of Europe’s greatest paintings from the Nazis. She’s completed Terrence Malick’s Knight of Cups and will play the wicked stepmother in the Kenneth Branagh-directed live-ac-tion Cinderella. Also upcoming is Todd Haynes’s lesbian romance Carol, in which she stars opposite Mia Wasikowska.

Blanchett still calls her native Australia home. She lives there with screenwriter-husband Andrew

Upton and their three boys, ages 12, 9, and 5. The family travels with the actress wherever

she goes, as much for her sake as theirs.

“When my children are with me, they’re not interested if you’re playing Blanche DuBois or Jasmine, they just want you to help them do their homework, play with them, and feed them,” says Blanchett. “So, I find that a great leveler. It means you have to switch off.”

“Well, there’s a lot of people who’ve fallen from grace. But, yes, of course, [research] is part of my job and part of the pleasure of my job. I’d followed the Madoff scandal like everybody else. But there’s a whole miniseries in that fiasco. Woody didn’t want [me] to solely base [Jasmine] on that because this isn’t [Madoff’s] story.” Ruth Madoff aside, Blanchett was immediately struck by the movie’s timeliness, and the way it reflected a country of haves and have-nots still struggling with high unemployment figures. “I think [what happened to Jasmine] is happening all across America and all over the world,” says the actress. “People’s sense of self is being bound up in a relationship or their financial status or their social circle, so when all of that is ripped away, you have to, in midlife, look at yourself and say, ‘Who the hell am I?’ If you don’t have financial security and you don’t have a support struc-ture, then madness can pretty quickly set in.” Swilling martinis and knocking back Xanax, Jasmine becomes more and more unstable as the movie goes along. She also becomes increasingly envious of the happiness Ginger seems to have. Modulating the madness was one of Blanchett’s trickiest assign-ments. “Obviously, I’m not so method that I went and took Xanax every night but you can find amazing stuff on YouTube. It was important for me to chart through when she’d taken a Xanax, how many she’d taken, and if she’d mixed it with alcohol and what the physical and mental effects would be.” “Also, what I was trying to [portray] was that sense that, in the beginnings of her having a panic attack, she might break out in a sweat, yet everything else is completely fine. Her physical state and her psychological state were interesting balls to try and [juggle].” If anyone can juggle Jasmine’s contradictions, it’s Blanchett, who can, seemingly, do anything. This is a woman who’s played Queen Elizabeth I, Kate Hepburn, and Bob Dylan. She’s toggled effortlessly from leading roles in The Good German and Veronica Guerin to supporting parts in The Talented Mr. Ripley and The Curious Case of Benjamin Button. She’s also managed to embrace both blockbusters (the Lord of the Rings movies, Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull) and art-house fare (Heaven, Notes on a Scandal).


Visions of Cate recall Hollywood’s glamorous past

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Roberto Coin makes a statement

b y N A N C Y O L S O N

From the Pois Moi collection: four-row diamond cuff in 18k rose and white gold; four-row cuff in

18k rose gold; double-row square ring in 18k rose gold; double-row square diamond ring in

18k rose and white gold.

designer spotlight

SCALARE COLLECTION


Roberto Coin never does anything in a small way. Just four short years after

he conceived his brand in 1996, he was acclaimed as number seven on the list

of best-known jewelry brands in the United States. And if that doesn’t leave

you breathless, a mere two years after that he ranked third on the internation-

al scene and first in Italy. Some might say it is his bold-yet-relatable designs.

Others might say it’s the quality of his products and his well-developed busi-

ness acumen. The reality? It’s all of the above and so much more, with each

new collection further revealing the brand and the man we’ve come to know

and love.

The new Pois Moi collection has an ultra-modern edge with a touch of

vintage — perfect for women of any age. It offers a unique combination of

style cues, all within the context of high-polished white, yellow and rose gold

— the newest look for this season.

“After the huge success of the Appassionata collection, I was looking for some-

thing with an innovative design that could become a signature style as Appassionata

did,” says Roberto Coin.

Appassionata’s basket-weave architecture took the jewelry world by storm,

and it was no doubt a hard act to follow. But it appears Coin succeeded. Each

piece in Pois Moi is a fresh example of the designer’s courageous insight. In

particular, the characteristic “soft square” sil-

houette finds its inspiration in an Italian

vintage trend: the “television shape”

reminiscent of the old TV monitors

from the 1950s.

The new Pois Moi collection has an ultra-modern edge with a touch of

vintage — perfect for women of any age.

RFrom the Pois Moi collection: diamond chain

necklace in 18k yellow and white gold; diamond chain bracelet in 18k yellow and white gold.

Moresque diamond earrings. $10,600

18k rose and white gold pave ring. $6400


The new Black Jade collection, too, reveals a memorable

profile, once again in the context of sleek gold, with black jade

and other gemstones.

“I am extremely proud to be the first one to introduce black

jade from Africa to the jewelry world,” says Coin of the col-

lection.

The designer’s boundless creativity is beautifully harnessed

in the recently launched brand, The Fifth Season by Roberto

Coin that, as its name implies, offers an organic medley of

materials — silver, yellow and gold plating — presented as

dynamic and strong companions. This, says Coin, is symbolic

of an elegance that “participates in the world’s frenetic rhythm

without falling apart.”

In May 2013, at the Andrea Palladio International Jewelry

Awards in Vicenza, Italy, Roberto Coin was presented with an

international award for the Best Jewelry Brand in Corporate

Social Responsibility. The brand was honored for its

constant commitment to promoting the values of

sustainability, responsibility and ethics in the

international jewelry community.

The designer’s boundless creativity is beautifully harnessed in the recently launched brand, The Fifth Season by Roberto Coin

Three row twist diamond pave ring. $11,400

From the Pois Moi collection: padlock pendant in 18k yellow and white gold; diamond padlock pendant in 18k yellow and white gold.

Primavera diamond rectangle bracelet $3600Primavera rose gold round bracelet $2300

Primavera white gold flat bracelet $2900Primavera rose gold flat bracelet $2900

Primavera yellow gold round bracelet with Smokey quartz $1700

designer spotlight


Impressionmaking an

A born creator and diehard doodler, Penny Preville has been

designing fine jewelry for over 30 years, and each collection

reveals as much about the artist as it does about her art.

“I am influenced by fashion and culture,” says the award-win-

ning designer, “but I also believe in continuity. A designer should

remain true to her style.”

And Preville does just that. While her earlier My Blue Heaven

expressed her love of the color blue, the new Impressionist col-

lection is an artful take on diamonds and gemstones as perceived

through her imaginative eye. Not surprisingly, blue remains a

recurring theme, since “different shades of blue symbolize varying

things for me — serenity, loyalty, good fortune, fidelity and calm-

ness,” she says.

The Impressionist Aqua earrings

offer a perfect balance between

glittering 18k gold and dazzling

diamonds, while large water-blue

gems take center stage. The dia-

monds around the perimeter are

delicately rose cut — a technique

used since the mid 16th century

— conjuring an overall design that

is at once utterly modern and sub-

limely classical. The Aqua cocktail

ring, also from the Impressionist

collection, is a bold reprise, with

rose-cut diamonds once again sur-

rounding the blue center stone.

b y N A N C Y O L S O N

Aqua Marine, Moonstone, and Diamond earrings.

$4395

Pink sapphire and moonstone imperial

enhancer from the Pink Sapphire collection.

blue remains a recurring theme, since “different shades of blue symbolize varying things for me — serenity, loyalty, good fortune, fidelity and calmness,” she says.

Women feel pretty in Penny Preville

designer spotlight


Thus her creations, while adventurous and daring, are also the per-

fect choice for whatever the day may hold, dressy or casual, active

or not. The Emerald City, for example, offers a splendid array of

emerald-set jewelry in 18k white or yellow gold — suitable for day

or night. The cushion-cut emerald ring, a newer member of the

collection, is a fearless symphony of a saturated green gemstone and

white gold, with a glittering staccato of diamonds.

Accolades for Preville’s work are many, including the Blenheim

Award for Continued Excellence in Design, Town & Country’s

Diamond Designers Excellence Award and Outstanding

Achievement in Advertising and Marketing Award, and The

Women’s Jewelers Association Award for Excellence in Design.

Early in her career, in 1978, she was named Designer of the Year

at the Jewelers of America Show in New York, undoubtedly fore-

telling the trajectory of her future.

Celebrities, too, feel pretty in Penny Preville, frequently show-

casing her designs on the red carpet and in movie and television

productions, as well as in their “everyday” lives. Nicole Kidman,

Mira Sorvino, Eva Longoria, Sandra Bullock, Anne Hathaway and

many more favor her work, as did the iconic Jackie Onassis.

As for her doodling? No doubt it’s the work of her creative mind,

relentless in its gifted perception.

Preville, whose goal is to create pieces that “make a woman look and feel fabulous,” understands that “wearability” is at the top of the list when it comes to what women want in a piece of fine jewelry.

Yellow gold emerald ring. $2665

Emerald beaded earrings from

the Emerald City collection. $2950

designer spotlight

18k Diamond Eyeglass chain. $1595

Emerald pear shaped pendant. $2895

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Hall of Fame Ad - Rubel.pdf 1 10/1/2013 9:52:23 AM

THE ORIGIN On September 3, 1875, Ferdinand Porsche is born in the Bohemian town of Maffersdorf. In 1889, after attending grammar school there and the Staatsgewerbeschule (State Vocational School) in Reichenberg, he enters his father’s business as an apprentice plumber.

The following year, The Lohner-Porsche electric car is present-ed at the World Fair in Paris. The wheel hub engines of the young engineer Ferdinand Porsche bring him international attention. In the same year, he develops an all-wheel-drive racecar, as well as a hybrid petrol/electric vehicle — a world first. By 1906, Ferdinand Porsche had become the Technical Director at Austro-Daimler in Wiener Neustadt. At the age of only 31, he is responsible for the model range of one of Europe’s largest automotive concerns. Three years later, Ferdinand’s son, later known as Ferry, is born on September 19th in Wiener Neustadt. Ferdinand then began his long love affair with car racing. In 1910, The Austro-Daimler touring car designed by Ferdinand Porsche scored a triple

victory in the Prince Henry Trials. At the wheel of the winning car sits none other than Ferdinand Porsche himself. By his 48th birthday, Ferdinand becomes the Technical Director and a Board Member of the Daimler-Motoren-Gesellschaft in Stuttgart. He soon designs the legendary Mercedes Compressor Sports Car. Immediately, the 2-litre racecar developed under his aegis wins the Targa Florio. The Mercedes-Benz S-Type

models he designed continue to dominate international motorsports through 1927. In 1931, Ferdinand Porsche opened an office for engineering and consultation on engine and vehicle design in Stuttgart. Created for such renowned manu-facturers as Wanderer, Zündapp and NSU are not only entire vehicles, but such trend-setting detail solutions as the Porsche torsion bar suspen-sion.

THE BEETLE The year is 1933 — a tenuous time in Germany. For Auto Union, Porsche devel-ops a Grand Prix racecar with a 16-cylinder

engine in mid-ship configuration. The rear-engine vehicle concept designed for the compact car (Type 32) developed for NSU is ultimately incorporated in the Volkswagen Beetle. The fol-lowing year the company receives an official order for the design and construction of a German

Volkswagen. Only one year later, the VW prototype is test driv-en. The Ur Beetle is assembled in the garage of the Porsche villa in Stuttgart. In 1935, Ferdinand Alexander Porsche is born in Stuttgart. He is the eldest son of Ferry Porsche. Over the next 9 years, Ferdinand oversees construction of production facilities for Volkswagen and is instrumental in the growth and popularity of VW’s Beetle. During the year 1939 Porsche built

long-distance endurance competition race cars nicknamed The Berlin–Rom-Wagen. These incredible racers are considered the forefathers of all later Porsche sports cars. Owing to the wartime conditions of 1944, Ferdinand moves the Porsche KG engineering office to Gmünd in the Austrian province of Carinthia. Two years later, under the direction of Ferdinand’s son Ferry, design of an all-wheel drive Grand Prix racecar — the ‘Cisitalia’ (Type 360) — is begun for Italian indus-trialist Piero Dusio.

Ferdinand PorscheA Historical Look at The Most Iconic Name in Racing

b y T O D D T U F T S


legendary automaker

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THE FAMED PORSCHE 356 IS BORN At the age of 72, Ferdinand realizes his family’s dream. In 1948, the 356 becomes the first sports car to bear the Porsche name. No. 1, as it is known, is roadcertified in June. Just one month later, the lightweight mid-engine roadster wins its first class victory at the Innsbruck Stadtrennen. With the class victory of a 356 SL at the 24 Hours of Le Mans in 1950, the young sports car manufacturer Porsche wins international acclaim. That same year, with the 356 in full production back in Germany, company founder Ferdinand Porsche died at the age of 75. In 1953, the infamous Porsche 550 Spyder debuts at the Paris Auto Show. Powered by an extremely quick 4-camshaft engine, the light and agile

racecar scores countless international tri-umphs.

THE 356 WRITES ITS LAST CHAPTERS In 1956, coinciding with the company’s 25th anniversary celebrations, the 10,000th Porsche 356 leaves the factory. At the Targa Florio, the Porsche 550 A Spyder logs an overall victory for the first time. Throughout the early ’60s, Porsche dominates the European racing circuit with more overall victories at the Targa Florio and the 12 Hours of Sebring. One year in Formula 2, Porsche finishes first, second, and third in the 150 Miles of Aintree in Great Britain. In 1962, the 50,000th Porsche, a 356 B, rolls off the assembly line. In Weissach, the first segment of the new test grounds becomes operational. In Formula 1, Porsche wins the French Grand Prix.

PORSCHE 911 — THE LEGEND ARRIVES In 1964, Porsche 911 launched in the previous year as the 901 goes into series pro-duction. Two years later, presented as the Safety Cabriolet, the Porsche 911Targa is introduced and enters series production. In 1968, Porsche achieves its first overall victory at the 24 Hours of Daytona with the Type 907-8. The grand successes of the previous year at the 1,000-kilometre race on the Nürburgring and the Targa Florio are repeated. The 911T wins the Monte Carlo Rally. The following year, Porche again wins the Monte Carlo Rally, the Targa Florio, and for the first time, wins the World Championship of Makes with the 908/02 and the new 917. More Porsches were introduced over the next four decades, including the 914, 924, 928, 944, 959, Boxster, Carrera GT, Cayenne, Cayman, and the all-new Panamera but none have enjoyed the loyalty or longevity of the famed 911, now entering it’s 46th year in production.

THE PORSCHE PRINCIPLE The Porsche Principle is Porsche’s Magna Carta. It is based on values and philosophies that, together, create added value. The Porsche Principle is about a company that consistently goes its own way. In public life. they decline subsidies. Social acceptance is paramount to Porsche. On the business base issue, Porsche is committed to Germany and is proud of the “Made in Germany” cachet. Porsche has definite ideas on how they develop and pro-duce their vehicles. In addition to maximum cost-effectiveness, vehicles must comply to the incredibly high standards Porsche established for themselves. Quality, environmental protection, and safety are what counts most. Porsche integrates their sup-pliers in the development process from the very first new car concept. The Porsche Principle is also about responsibility to the customer, and to Porsche’s

heritage — a heritage rooted in motorsport, where Porsche has written history on the track. Porsche concentrates on what they do best: building sports cars.

The author’s 2004 Porsche 911 C4S


legendary automaker

JAMES DEAN and the PORSCHE 550 The year was 1954. The Porsche 550, already famous in racing circles, was soon to earn international fame. James Dean received his big movie break in 1954 when he was chosen to play Cal Trask, the leading male role in the film East of Eden (1955). Quickly following East of Eden, Dean was signed to play Jim Stark in Rebel Without a Cause (1955), the film for which he is best remembered. Immediately following the filming for Rebel Without a Cause, Dean played the lead role in Giant. As Dean’s movie career began to take off, he also started to race cars.

In March 1955, Dean raced in the Palm Springs Road Races, and in May of that year, he raced in the Minter Field Bakersfield race and the Santa Barbara Road Races. Dean liked to go fast. In September 1955, he replaced his white Porsche 356 Super Speedster (pictured above) with a new silver Porsche 550 Spyder. Dean had the car specialized by having the number 130 painted on both the front and back. Also painted on the back of the car was “Little Bastard,” the nickname given to him by Bill Hickman, his dialogue coach for Giant. On September 30, 1955, James was driving his new Porsche 550 Spyder to an auto rally in Salinas, California, when tragedy struck. Originally planning to tow the Porsche to the rally, Dean changed his mind at the last minute and decided to drive it instead. While Dean and Rolf Wuetherich, Dean’s mechanic, rode in the Porsche, Dean had friends follow him in his Ford station wagon, which had a trailer for the Spyder attached. As if a warning of things to come, en route to Salinas, Dean was pulled over by police officers near Bakersfield around 3:30pm for speed-

ing. Two hours later, around 5:30 p.m., they were driving westbound on what is now called State Route 46, when a 1950 Ford Tutor pulled out in front of them. The driver, twenty-three-year-old Donald Turnupseed, was traveling east and attempting to make a left turn onto Highway 41. Unfortunately, Turnupseed had already started to make his turn before he saw the roaring Porsche traveling quickly toward him. Without time to turn, the two cars smashed nearly head-on. The injuries among the three involved varied greatly. Turnupseed received only minor injuries. Rolf Wuetherich, the passenger in the Porsche, was thrown from the vehicle and suffered serious head injuries and a broken leg, but survived the crash. Dean, however, was killed in the accident. He was only 24-years-old. Hard to believe, and a fact often forgotten, East of Eden was the only James Dean film that had been released before his death. Following his passing, Rebel Without a Cause, the film for which Dean is best remembered, hit movie screens. Giant was also released after Dean’s death.

James Dean was already somewhat famous for his role in East of Eden but his death and the release of Rebel Without a Cause catapulted him to cult status. Forever frozen as the talented, misunderstood, rebellious youth, James Dean remains the symbol of teenage angst. Many car collectors wonder what happened to the smashed Porsche. After the accident, the crumpled car toured around the United States as part of a driver safety presentation. En route between two stops, the car disappeared. In 2005, Volo Auto Museum in Volo, Illinois, offered $1 million to anyone who currently had the car. So far, the car has not resurfaced.



bridal bliss

the history of

ngagement Rings Others consider Turkish puzzle rings to be the dawn of the practice, though like many Roman betrothal rings they were not symbols of a loving bond, but were considered more important for counteracting infidelity and illustrating ownership. When more ornate Roman rings were presented, it was as a sign that the wom-an’s fiancé trusted her with access to his wealth and possessions, and as a sign of her hierarchical status within his social circle. Engagement was latterly deemed a legal promise, sealed not with a kiss but with a precious ring, which protected her from having her position usurped by a mistress or rival. In Colonial America thimbles, gloves and other gifts were given in place of jewelry to symbolize a betrothal. Quakers believed jewelry to hold no moral value and as such considered it worthless and meretricious, even for an engagement. Despite this, when young Puritan women were gifted a thimble by their fiancé to help them sew garments for their dowry, they would often remove the bowl and wear the base as a ring once they were married. After the ceremony the thimble was regarded as having served its useful purpose, so refashioning it was an acceptable way of continuing to appreciate the gift.

E Today most engagement rings symbolize a couple’s commit-ment to each other and their dedication to their future life togeth-er, but the tradition has not always been a promise of love. Initially they were given as a sign of ownership — often as part of a wom-an’s dowry — and demonstrated the wealth and influence attribut-ed to the woman’s fiancé. The pre-marital giving and receiving of rings is a relatively recent trend, but one which has become popular amongst many cultures and is now the fashion worldwide. It was the Ancient Grecians who first exchanged betrothal rings to signify romantic attachment, but some believe the tradi-tion originated in Ancient Egypt where knots of hair and leather were woven into circles. Later examples of Ancient Egyptian rings became much more intricate, but were still limited in design and metal rings were reserved for wealthier couples. Tombs in Egypt have been uncovered which depict engagement bands set with gemstones, but even they would have been relatively crudely made because the technology was then not advanced enough to create a smooth metal band.

In Medieval times

the engagement

rings of the

masses were plain

bands much like

many wedding

rings are today.

Michael B Flat Band Trois semi-mounting in platinum with diamonds. $17,950

Lazare Kaplan three row Diamond Ring. $14,085

Steven Kretchmer Designs, platinum omega ring. $4550(Diamond sold separately)


bridal bliss

The type of expensive gemstone ring we think of as an engage-ment ring now was initially reserved solely for the upper classes. Indeed, the first known example of an exclusive gem-set engage-ment ring was presented by royalty at the imperial court of Vienna. It was there in 1477 that Mary of Burgundy received a diamond betrothal ring from Archduke Maximilian of Austria. It was not until the 1800s that engagement rings became more common amongst less affluent couples, and even then was not until the 20th century that diamond rings became the accepted standard to accompany a proposal in Western culture. It was then that deposits of diamond rough (the crystalline material faceted diamonds are cut from) were discovered in African mines, leading diamonds to have a greater and more affordable presence on the gemstone market. This availability led jewelers to create more intricate and diverse designs in which to set their diamonds, which in turn increased their demand and appeal in engagement jewelry. Throughout history engagement rings have announced the union between young lovers. Today as much as ever they serve as a declaration of the love, fidelity and enduring passion between two people who hope to spend their lives honoring that bond.

In 860 AD Pope Nicholas I decreed that gold rings should be used for marriage and engagement, because they validated the financial commitment being made by the man to the woman. This doctrine was echoed again by Pope Innocent III in the 12th centu-ry, but these metals did not become attainable for the masses until much later. In the 14th and 15th centuries the upper classes occa-sionally had gold or silver bands set with semi-precious gemstones, and the lower classes still swapped simple copper or iron rings. Platinum has only been fashioned into jewelry throughout the last two-hundred years, and though its exclusivity has always been highly valued, it is still not an affordable setting for many couples. During World War II platinum was prohibited for use in jewelry in the United States — even in engagement rings — due to its necessity for manufacturing munitions. During that period white gold was created to simulate the crisp elegance of platinum, and remains a popular choice for brides-to-be looking for hard-wearing, contemporary engagement rings.

Precision Set diamond engagement semi-mounting

$7100


HOLLYWOOD’Sreach

b y D E B O R A H Y O N I C K

Roberto Coin floral bracelet

Nicole Kidman at 2013 Golden

Globes. Photo Credit HFPA

(Hollywood Foreign Press Association)

Roberto Coin floral earrings

U Unless you’ve been living under a rock (instead of wearing one), you know that glamor is back in

a big way in accessorizing, inspired by early 20th century period films like The Great Gatsby, Anna

Karenina and Downton Abbey.

Think layers of pearls, diamond cluster earrings, big pearl drops and multi-strand diamond necklac-

es with flower patterns; sautoirs, long chains, pins, beads, bows, and buckles; fringes, sequins, feathers,

geometric patterns, black and white color blocks, and hair accessories.

Diamond and 18k white gold ring by Jack Kelege. $5600Diamond and 18k white gold earrings by Jack Kelege. $6950


For jewelers, the Art Deco period is easy to

revisit because of the simplicity and cleanness of

the design. But it’s not just the early 20th centu-

ry, it’s the century as a whole that Hollywood is

inspiring interest in, says Michael O’Connor, jewelry

stylist and host of Reelz Channel’s MovieStyle with

Michael O’Connor. “It’s a century in retrospect as to

what’s trending, capturing eras when people wore jew-

elry for statement purposes and to complete an outfit.”

If you’re tracking fashion media, you know there is

a growing love affair with matched jewelry sets in photo

layouts — the perfect accessories to ladylike styles inspired by

the ’50s and ’60s according to image consultant Cynthia Sliwa,

co-author of Jewelry Savvy: The Ultimate Guide to the Selection,

Care & Creative Recycling of Jewelry. “It’s a high-end way to dress.”

A segment of viewers, O’Connor says, pine for the Twilight series and

TV shows like Once Upon a Time, fueling interest for fantasy inspired jewelry,

dark, amulet styles with gem cabochons, diamond slices and blackened metals.

Taylor Swift at 2013 Golden Globes. Photo Courtesy of PGI (Platinum Guild International)

Roberto Coin black sapphire and diamond cuff bracelet. $19,200

Roberto Coin black sapphire and diamond

necklace. $23,000


Retro trends translate on the red carpet as well. Great

examples from this year’s Golden Globes and Oscars includ-

ing Taylor Swift in blackened platinum ruby and diamond

earrings; Nicole Kidman in an emerald and blue enamel and

diamond ring and Naomi Watts in blackened lavender jade,

ruby and diamond earrings.

O’Connor also hails the return of the necklace to the red

carpet, many of them in blackened metal, an antique look. He

advocates diamonds-by-the-yard, a must-have that works with

any gem or pearl on a long chain, and can be worn down the

front or back and layered. Another trend topper is the tassel,

as it works in diamonds, gems and pearls, and looks perfect in

earrings or dangling from a long chain.

The most important takeaway when deciding what to wear

for any occasion, O’Connor says, is that you pick designs you

feel good in, because when you do, you project confidence —

the key to true red carpet style!

Naomi Watts at 2013 Golden Globes. Photo Credit HFPA (Hollywood Foreign Press Association)

Penny Preville 36” eye glass chain 18k white gold. $4480

Lace Signature station chain by Penny Preville. $5995

Penny Preville Curly Lace enhancer in 18k rose and

white gold. $6595

Jennifer Hudson at the 2013 Academy Awards. Photo Credit: Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences (AMPAS)

Fit to be Teed

b y J A N E T G R O E N E


sports therapy

With golf more popular than ever, mas-sage therapists are seeing an increasing number of hackers, many of them unnec-essarily in pain. Fortunately for serious players, golf massage is offered on more and more spa menus. Even more specialized are targeted massages for golfers in the 11-39 age group, the approximately 20 percent who are women, and those golfers age 50 or over who are likely to have additional problems such as arthritis. Massage therapists who see a lot of golfers know there are subtle differences between golf massage and a general sports massage. How can you make sure your therapist (1) prepares you for play, (2) puts tired muscles in repose after the golf game, and (3) maintains your muscles for power-ful, pain-free golf games in the future? Iris Casteen, lead therapist at Stillwater Spa in the Hyatt Regency Coconut Point at Bonita Springs in Southwest Florida observes that “golfers tend to gravitate to us once they’ve had a bad game.” Her challenge is to get golfers into massage therapy before their first play at the resort’s famous Raptor Bay course, educate them about their bodies, and then keep them on the right path. Because most of her clients are on vacation, they may not have played golf for some time, or may not have done proper warm-up and stretch-ing before the game.

Certified in Reflexology, Acupressure, Aroma-Reflex, Shiatsu, and Watsu, Iris takes a strong Asian path in her ther-apy. Her focus is on the mind, body, spirit connection. “I start golfers with a relaxation massage, perhaps with assisted yoga, after the flight and before their first round. Communication is so important,” she explains, “Not just in learning how the client feels physically, but about their expectations from a therapist. As I work, we talk. Often a client doesn’t know that, for example, a tingling in the sciatic area has been caused by a golf posture.” Casteen gives her clients total attention, not just as golfers, but as part of the total resort experience. On their first visit to Stillwater Spa, she explains the ritual of spa and the importance of steam, sauna, and the Swiss shower, followed by massage to balance the energy system. She blends the long-repetitive strokes of European massage with Tuina (Chinese push-pull massage) and Thai massage (assisted stretching). She also suggests aromatherapy. For golfers, she uses lavender, chamomile, mag-nolia, rose hip, or geranium. Often she

devises a custom scent blend and she mayalso add music to the session. Her goal is to summon all senses to put the client in a state of total relaxation. With golfers, she usually has to deal with lower back issues, and she often finds shoulders “screaming for relaxation.” At this point, she uses therapeutic massage, a blend of East and West, hot and cold, with accent on cold. It’s helpful, she finds, to use Shiatsu, with focus on the gluteus area, and she also uses trigger point release. She finds neuro-muscular release good for the lower back. While a 50-minute session is helpful, she prefers 80 minutes, especially for a golfer’s first session with her. When asked how she works with older golfers, Iris emphasizes the totality of mas-sage for the game as well as other prob-lems, such as arthritis or bursitis. She also works with younger golfers, who can choose from Stillwater Spa’s teen massage menu. Casteen finds younger players more resilient but also less experienced with crisis areas. They need more instruction in knowing the connection between their golf game and their bodies, she observes. “Lastly, it all begins and ends with the feet so I recommend Reflexology for every-one including golfers.,” says Casteen.

Ariel Quinones is a licensed massage ther-apist at The Spa at the Omni Orlando Resort at ChampionsGate in Florida, where there are two, 18-hole, championship golf courses. World headquarters of the David Leadbetter Golf Academy, the resort is frequent host to some of the top names in professional golf and it’s also popular for golf-oriented business conferences. Quinones’ clients are likely to be expert and frequent players, many of them with a support system that includes instruc-tors, coaches, and personal trainers. “It’s essential that we see the golfer before inflammation occurs. At that point,” he says, “There’s little we can do except to work groups of muscles in areas other than the inflamed site. The human body was created to heal itself in many ways, so we try to educate athletes to listen to their bodies. They can come to me for maintenance but they must be responsible for preparation. With proper warm-up and stretching followed by massage to prepare muscles, tendons, and ligaments, I can bring a golfer up to 100 percent perfor-mance from a pre-massage potential of only 60-70 percent.” At The Spa at the Omni, the women’s area has a Jacuzzi and wet sauna and, in the men’s spa, steam and dry sauna. Quinones urges clients to start with these, then he begins with contract-relax steps to increase circulation. His golf massage differs from his sports massage, in that he goes directly to the deltoids, the four rotator cuff muscles, calf muscles, gluteus medius and maximus, and the lattissimus dorsi. He, too, recommends 80-minute session rather than the more pop-ular 50-minute massage. As he works he tries to educate clients about their anatomy and physiology and how it all relates to their golf game. He advises them in warm-up and stretching,

followed by a massage and adequate hydra-tion before and during the game. Then he advises re-hydration, sauna, and massage after the game to bring muscles back into balance. LMT Jane Frances is with the athletic club at the AAA 4-Diamond Peabody Orlando. The hotel doesn’t have a golf course but, as host hotel for the annual PGA Golf Expo, it accommodates many serious players, includ-ing local golfers who belong to the Peabody Athletic Club. She urges golfers to come to her pre-game for a massage that prepares the lower back, shoulders, hips, legs, and elbows for the stresses of the game. “The lumbar region is the fulcrum of the coil that goes with the golf swing,” Frances explains. If they don’t stretch properly or are tightened up from a long flight to Orlando they are already hurting when she first sees them. “I use warmth and cold, deep tissue mas-sage, and I like stone compression therapy to sink heat deep into the muscles,” she enthus-es. Frances also focuses on circulation in knees and hamstrings. She finds positional release good for elbows. While she works, she talks about the importance of a thorough warm-up and stretching. A lot depends on how often a golf-er plays, Ms. Frances finds. A frequent player is more in tune than the monthly player. In any case, she starts with a sports massage to loosen up restricted muscles and urges golfers to get a massage after the game. Ms. Frances, a Reiki master and licensed facial specialist, recommends that golfers have a one-hour aloe facial mask for deep hydra-tion, and she also incorporates Reflexology into a golf massage. “We are like chefs,” she smiles, “We throw everything into the pot that will address the client’s concerns. We listen with our ears and our hands.”

Fit to be Teed

Golf’s Top 10 Stress Points

According to John R. McCarroll,

M.D., board-certified orthopedic surgeon

and member of the American College of

Sports Medicine, the injuries most fre-

quently suffered by amateur golfers, from

greatest to least frequent are:

1) Lower back

2) Wrist

3) Elbow

4) Shoulder

5) Knee

6) Neck

7) Hip

8) Ribs

9) Ankle

10) Foot

The most common causes of injuries in

amateur golfers, says Dr. McCarroll, are:

• Too much play or practice

• Poor swing mechanics

• Hitting the ground

• Overswing

• Poor warm-up

• Twist during swing

• Grip or swing change

• Fall

• Bending over putt

• Cart-caused injury

• Hit by a ball

Janet Groene is an award-winning writer, columnist and author of more than 25 books, including the Open Road Travel Guides’ Caribbean edition.

sports therapy


designer b y D Y L A N L A N D I S


spotlight

An intersection of timeless + trend

timelessness is the embodiment of simplicity

PHOTOS COURTESY OF EILEEN FISHER

E I L E E N F I S H E R

For Eileen, timelessness is the embodiment of simplicity. Over the past twenty-nine years, the collection has been built on this conviction. In 1984, she began with four easy and elemental pieces and a concept of getting dressed. Where, then, does trend fit in? One of Eileen’s first designs, which appeared so clearly in her mind, was the box-top, a square-cut, free-flowing style. “Draw a box,” instructs Rebecca Perrin, one of three members on Eileen’s Core Concept Team. “Extend the top line — those are the arms. Make a little cutout in front for a neck. And that’s it. The simplicity is very graphic, and it’s extremely beautiful as a shape.” The box-top hasn’t left the line since that first year. Both timeless and timely, it’s highly adaptable to whatever aesthetic excitement may be in the air.

Among its dozens of permutations, the enduring box-top has been cropped, dropped to dress-length, dolman-sleeved, graced with pockets, given a little stretch, striped, asym-metrically hemmed, back-pleated, embellished with tiny crystals, bateau-necked, V-necked, funnel-necked, and cowled. It’s been sliced down the front to become a jacket, and made into a tunic. It’s been fashioned from alpaca, velvet, lace, and linen. And therein lies a tension — between time-less and trendy — that the company increasingly embraces. At the heart of Eileen Fisher’s reach for timelessness — ageless, dateless, perennial — lies The System, created by Eileen as both a prin-ciple and the crux of a wardrobe.


men’s fashion

PHOTO COURTESY OF PAUL BETENLY

designer spotlight

As a principle, it’s her personal commitment to making it

easy for a woman to get dressed. As a core group of garments,

The System is abiding. It does not hew to fast-paced fashion.

It does not come in colors, only neutrals. It is a foundation of

shapes at their purest: tops, skirts, pants that become building

blocks for outfit after outfit.

“The System is the key that unlocks everything else,” says

Candice Reffe, also on the Core Concept Team. A woman who

slips into pieces from The System can then layer on other ele-

ments of the collection.

“We build on our fabrics,” says Eileen. “We even use colors, especially our neutral colors, over and over again, so people can really create wardrobes that work over the years.” That’s why Rebecca can still wear her beloved ten-

year-old Stretch Silk Jersey top with the slightly belled sleeve

with pieces made today.

The line as a whole shifts gradually. “We don’t have a com-

pletely different concept every season,” says Kira Denison-Cole,

the third member of the Core Concept team. “We’re slow-

er-moving than that. We probably move faster now in terms of

trends than we ever have, but it has to be rooted in the classic

way that we got dressed in 1984. We thread things through from

past seasons. It’s never out with the old and in with the new: it’s

layered.”

Timelessness is reinterpreted as each team steps into the

design process. The company’s archives are a rich source of inspi-

ration for the design team.

“A designer’s role is to challenge, to come up with new things,” says Helen Oji. “But a lot of times I reference an earlier style, because I know that it works — it has a clas-sic simplicity.” A shape from the past might reappear in a

new fabric and color, perhaps slightly slimmed from the compa-

ny’s early one-size-fits-all days.

Even before a garment is conceived, color designer Chris

Costan thinks about a spectrum, balancing what feels fresh and

modern with palettes that came before. “If the design is simple

enough, the color may reflect a trend, but the style will remain

relevant,” says Chris.

The fabric team looks for materials that will endure, that are

sustainable, that will befriend those the company uses nearly

every season—and that the hand and eye cannot resist. “There’s

some way in which materials speak,” says Candice. “They have

their own voice. And we’re trying to listen for the

fabric that feels like it’s part of a song we’re already

singing, or part of a new harmony.”

When a new collection launches, key teams

spend two intensive days test-driving the clothes.

They think carefully about how the clothes work

together, as well as how each piece works. Fit mat-

ters because a woman only keeps a piece of clothing

that fits and makes her feel the way she wants to

look.

“What’s timeless about our clothes is how they feel on,” says Rebecca. “They’re always functional. You can move in them. You’re so much more able to be in the moment, be with whomever you’re talking to, or do what you’re doing.” Yet spring, with its sense of alchemy (a metallic

skirt, tees that shimmer) and of-the-moment harem

pants, may seem, at first, to rattle the definition of

timelessness.

Consider, however, that it took three years of

deliberation before the harem pants were admitted

to the collection. It changed when Eileen wore them.

Lean and architectural, they’re a variation on a form

that’s been in the collection since 1984 — the maxi

skirt, the wide-leg pant. Simplicity with an edge

might be one way to put it.

“Our customer doesn’t need change for the sake

of change,” says Laura Mikell, who works on bring-

ing value to the line and has been with Eileen Fisher

for twenty-one years. “She needs change to delight

her. If we take a trend but filter it for us and our

customer, we’re really taking it down to its essence

— and then, in a way, it’s not so trendy.”

Candice describes the balance this way: “It’s an

argument we’re constantly having with ourselves.

We’re asking, ‘What feels true to who we are?’”

spotlight



fallfashioncolors

BBold, refreshing color continues to rock fashion runways for fall, from New York

to London, Paris to Milan. Among the standout design directions are: romantic

textiles, novelty fabrics, inky paisley prints and brocades; over-sized

and structured designs; nature, including its opulence and its dark

side; early 20th century art movements like Dada and Bauhaus;

’60s mod and ’90s grunge.

Jewelry on the runways is embracing statement neckwear in

collars from futuristic and edgy to romantic and ornate. There

were long necklaces with dangling tassels and talismans, and

colossal cuffs and chain bracelets. Earrings were chandelier-style

using chains, crystals or beads, as well as hoops and crosses. Key design

directions celebrate retakes on timeless links, sinewy swirls, iconic knot patterns,

gladiator-style weaves and florets — always a favorite motif.

b y D E B O R A H Y O N I C Kcolor focus

Models walks the runway at the Ruffian Fall 2013 fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2013 at Lincoln Center in New York City. (Photo by Peter Michael Dills/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week)

Rutilated quartz over black onyx in 18k rose gold and diamonds by Roberto Coin. $4900

Prasiolite and diamond cocktail ring in 18k rose gold by Roberto Coin. $6840

Amethyst square cocktail ring in 18k rose gold and diamonds. $6600

The bold colors of the runway can be beautifully interpreted using gemstones


Green is significant in this year’s palette, with the top 10 by the Pantone Color Institute

including three shades. Emerald, Pantone’s Color of the Year for 2013, is a powerful, univer-

sally appealing tone. Emerald tops the list of gems that complement this trend, but other green

gem options include demantoid and tsavorite garnets, chrome diopside, tourmaline and jade.

“Green is the most abundant hue in nature. The human eye sees more green than any

other color in the spectrum,” says Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color

Institute, global authority on color. “The prevalence of green has been steadily rising for sev-

eral seasons, especially in the fashion and couture markets and on the red carpet.”

Green gems are mixed with other colors from the season’s fashion spectrum including dark

blues, spirited reds, and dazzling pinks and oranges. Among the gems in these rich hues are

diamond, sapphire, tourmaline, garnet, spinel, zircon, and quartz.

“The fall palette creates moods from sophisticated and structured to lively and vivid, encap-

sulating our inherent need for wardrobe variety,” says Eiseman. “Designers are embracing uncon-

ventional color combinations that encourage the ‘I never thought of doing that before’ reaction.”

Also popular is deep lichen green, somewhere between army green and khaki, with gray undertone. Perfect gems to help add a pop of this color to your wardrobe include green sapphire, tourmaline, agate, quartz and moonstone. Linden green, which is lighter, can be conveyed with peridot, chrysoberyl, chrysoprase, quartz or agate.

Shanghai three row bracelet by Roberto Coin.

Shanghai necklace by Roberto Coin.


Gem-intense brands like Vianna adopt exciting color combinations inspired

by its native Brazil using gems such as London blue topaz, amethyst, citrine

and prasiolite in yellow gold; pink tourmalines, rhodolites, morganite and dia-

monds in rose gold; or whiskey citrine, olive quartz, prasiolite, and diamonds in

yellow gold.

“From the runways to the walkways, designers and stylists are taking a bold-

er approach to fashion,” says Filecellia Sampson, client and public relations for

Goshwara. “More color, mixed fabrics and vibrant prints are transitioning into

fall. Jewelry designers have beautifully translated this into their collections.

The jewelry community is revolutionizing. Colorful jewelry is playing a major

role in some of the season’s best looks.”

London blue topaz is a favorite color, and brands like Jude Frances Jewelry

use it in a big way. “We’ve noticed that people love the blues, since they often

can be worn as neutrals,” says Emily Cohen, director of marketing and public

relations. She notes that the brand’s spring collection rocked green amethyst

with sky blue topaz, a bestseller. “For fall, we also have champagne citrine,

which is another neutral stone that can be worn all year round. One thing

we’re doing a lot of this fall is black and gold. We’re mixing pavé black spinel

with our brushed gold finish. It’s very edgy and cool.”

There is an enormous diversity of materials being used by designers, including leather, wood, straw, ceramic and titanium, in addition to gold, silver and diamonds. Forecasters see a creative shift happening in new forms of jewels and ways of wearing them — like hair and body ornaments, eyewear, belts, handbags, and electronics — making the things we surround ourselves with everyday seem more precious.

Labradorite and 18k white gold long station necklace

by Penny Preville.

Roberto Coin Spring collection ring in lemon

citrine. $4520 Roberto Coin Spring collection

earrings in lemon citrine. $7560


trends in

wedding ringsmen’sG O O D G R O O M I N G :

b y H E D D A S C H U P A Kmen’s wedding fashion

A man’s statement of commitment and style

withWith so much of the wedding preparations focused on the bride — her engagement ring, her dress, her hair, her flowers, her attendants — it’s easy for the groom to feel like his wedding ring is an afterthought. And historically, it was. A plain gold band did the trick and everyone could get back to focusing on the bride and the event. But today, grooms often will don a ring even before the wedding. Severine Ferrari, editor-in-chief of Engagement 101, says “man-gage-ment rings” are one of the next big trends in fine jewelry. Once the decision is made, the man is as anxious to show his changed status as his bride-to-be, and the groom’s ring is an equally important symbol of the commitment the couple are making to each other. Today’s typical grooms (average age at first marriage: 29) grew up far more fash-ion-conscious than their fathers and grandfathers. To them, a wedding ring is more than a symbol that they’re married; it’s also an outward statement of their personal style. • Ergonomic design is making today’s rings both more comfortable and less prone to damage. Interiors may be curved for comfort, or the shape of the band may indicate a top and bottom. The human finger isn’t perfectly round, so by having a “right side up” way to wear the ring, it’s likely to suffer less damage. • Today’s more casual lifestyles and workplace dress call for a modern, matte finish that is far more suited to current fashion than traditional high-polish gold rings. A flat band can also look more hip and on-trend than a traditional domed band, depending on the design of the band. • Modern grooms appreciate the steely white quality of platinum in a subdued matte finish, while palladium (a platinum group metal) offers that precious white option for lower cost. Those who prefer traditional yellow gold are still likely to choose it with a matte finish as well. Or skip the traditional look entirely: more men are choosing dark, even black, bands, whether oxidized precious metal or dark con-temporary metals like titanium and tungsten. • Diamonds used to be rare in men’s wedding rings. No more. According to The Knot, after watches, diamond wedding bands are one of the leading categories in men’s jewelry. The best-selling styles are both subtle and wearable; it’s about small accents, not bling. Stones are usually set flush with the surface of the ring and often as not are black, champagne, or cognac diamonds rather than traditional

white. Rough diamonds — those that are set into jewelry in the same condition they came out of the mine — are au courant, especially when set into blackened metals. • Gold and even platinum, durable as they are, can be damaged by an active lifestyle. As a result, more men are opting for ding-proof wedding bands in contemporary metals like cobalt, titanium and tung-sten. Of these newer choices, titanium’s lightweight feel — almost like you aren’t wearing a ring — is the most popular, but all of these metals are highly durable and excellent choices for men who work with their hands and still want to wear a wedding ring every day. And their space age, science-hall origins appeal to his inner nerd, too. • Make mine a double! Some couples may still regard a wedding ring as too sacred a symbol to make from non-precious metal. Fortunately, there’s an easy answer: have two! The precious gold or platinum ring your bride places on your finger during the ceremony is what you wear when you dress to go out together; the modern metal is what you wear when you go off to work or play ball. It still shows your commitment, but without the worry that you’re going to dent it, scratch it or lose it. • Other recent trends in men’s wedding rings include a Celtic knot motif or inlays of exotic wood or two-tone metal. Some couples like the symbolism of a his-and-hers matching set, with a masculine inter-pretation of the bride’s wedding ring, while other couples cringe at anything too matchy-matchy. In either case, custom is key: couples love a ring that’s uniquely their own, either designed by them or for them alone by their jeweler.

Wedding bands by Steven Kretchmer Designs in palladium with diamonds.

Christian Bauer wedding bands in platinum, gold, or palladium.

Visit us on facebook:Christian Bauer USA


cuff linkstokarma beads

In recent years, there’s been much talk about how men acces-

sorize themselves. Traditional men’s accessories, such as ties and

cufflinks, disappeared for awhile when men opened their collars,

rolled up their sleeves and experimented with edgy rocker styles,

or even hip-hop influences.

However men found other accessories. The wrist is no longer

the place just for a watch, but maybe a link or even wrap bracelet.

The open collar became the ideal venue to show off a metal collar

necklace. Recently, men have been inspired by Eastern principals,

donning Karma bead bracelets.

Lately, traditional Wall Street and Madison Avenue styles have

reemerged for a new generation, due in no small part to the success

of TV dramas such as Mad Men, and Downtown Abbey.

The Great Recession was a big bump in the road, not just for

spending but for propelling new styles, too. There’s an interesting

dichotomy going on in men’s fashions right now,” says Marshal

Cohen, chief industry analyst at The NPD Group, a leading con-

sumer research firm that tracks what consumers are buying (or

intend to buy.) “Young men are dressing up more,” he says.

For instance, for the 12 months ended in May, NPD found that

suit sales were up nearly 20%. Even more interesting, sales of suit

separates were up an astounding 27.3%, far outpacing other types

of men’s apparel. “But while men may be buying more tailored

types of clothing again, they aren’t wearing the look head to toe

like they did a generation ago,” Cohen says. Instead they’re mixing

it up, using more casual jewelry and accessories — wearing a pen-

dant rather than a tie, or finishing off with a brightly colored pair

of socks. Yet they are still donning French cuff shirts and cufflinks

along with their new bowties.

b y J E F F P R I N E

InModern or traditional, men’s jewelry is more important than ever.

David Yurman Waves bracelet with honed onyx and silver beads .

Waves Swiss Army knife by David Yurman.

David Yurman Royal cord cuff links with black diamonds.

Waves band by David Yurman.

Waves signet ring with agate inlay by Davd Yurman.

Black onyx and black diamond signet rings by David Yurman.

According to Cohen “There is also a big influence coming from Europe and Asia, where men have long carried bags. Now even American men need them because their clothing is constructed to be tighter to the body and no body wants bulging pockets.” And as bags and leather goods become more of a status symbol, details like jewelry also become more important, Cohen says. “As much as men like to fit in with the boys, they also want to set themselves apart.” Hence, they look for details like an interesting signet ring, a pocket square or even a tie bar — another retro detail that has returned to favor. Fortunately, there are more varieties of men’s jewelry to accom-modate these diverse interests and trends, including the following:

• Smaller often makes a bigger statement, especially when dia-monds and precious gems are used.

• Monograms, initials and personal messages on the front (or reverse) of pendants, bracelets and rings.

• “Right hand” rings for men: interesting sculptured or textured rings.

• Wrist Action: bracelets continue to be a look popular no matter what the clothing: beaded, stretch bracelets, links, leather and metal bracelets, often worn layered. Wrap bracelets are also key.

• Animal instincts: designs based on dragons, snakes, lions, eagles and horses.

• Rough riders: one-of-a-kind gems, often in their natural states.

• Cufflinks can be retro serious (think Don Draper) or more whimsical versions that bring a smile to even the most cantanker-ous of characters.

• 14k or 18k gold alone or mixed with other metals returns, most often as rose gold. Finishes may be sandblasted, textured or etched.

• Alternative metals, including stainless steel and titanium, remain important because of the lightweight and durable qualities. But look for a resurgence in noble metals, such as silver, gold, palladi-um and even platinum.

“The Millennials may be more interested in the image their jewelry and accessories project,” Cohen notes. “The middle generation — the Baby Boomers — are more

interested in status and investment.”


Waves dog tag by David Yurman.

Leather triple wrap bracelet by David Yurman.

Armory metal Bracelet by David Yurman.

David Yurman Chevron Rubber bracelet in gray.

David Yurman Black stations bracelet.

I


in Italy’s

b y I Y N A B O R T C A R U S Otravel to Italy

Wine CountrymoreA

If there’s a knock against travel to Italy, at least during prime

wedding season, it’s the crowds of its most popular honeymoon

spots. Tossing a euro in Rome’s Trevi Fountain turns to sport

when you have to muscle past the tour bus throngs. And wait-

ing for a gondola on the Grand Canal in Venice? Think Disney

during school break.

You will not find the crowds in the Piedmont wine region

of northwest Italy known as the Langhe, despite its surprising

accessibility. Set your GPS and you can be in Monte Carlo or

Milan in less than two hours.

H A N D C R A F T E D 1 8 K A N D P L A T I N U M

W W W. P R E C I S I O N S E T . C O M

M A D E I N A M E R I C A

The Langhe is castle country; more than a half-dozen are within an

easy drive or vigorous mountain bike ride. Every hairpin turn on a vine-

yard-covered foothill rewards you with a view of another stone tower,

the Alps in the distance. The skyline hasn’t changed much in centuries.

So why is the Langhe a secret? For one thing, it’s been overlooked by

honeymooners because of its lack of luxury accommodations. The area

is flecked with decent enough hotels, pensions, guest houses, and farm

house lodgings known as agriturismi, but, until recently, no five-star

properties. That changed in 2009 when one of the region’s leading wine

producers, Beni di Batasiolo, built the plush il Boscareto Resort and Spa

smack in the middle of one of its most beautiful vineyards.

Cue the masseuse. Il Boscareto’s bi-level treatment suites and fitness

center include one of the sexiest indoor-outdoor pools north of Tuscany.

Intimate lounge areas line the resort’s perimeter, overlooking the grapes

that will eventually make their way into wine glasses around the world.

Il Boscareto does not have the patina of its ancient surroundings; archi-

tecturally it’s a kind of modern interpretation of a Piedmontese castle,

but its roots run deep. It is a resort run by one family whose lineage goes

back centuries. There’s no multinational corporation operating it from a

distant headquarters.

As a destination resort, Il Boscareto tempts you to stay put. But why

when you can daytrip to towns of Roman ruins, Renaissance frescoes,

and little cafés on narrow alleyways that are yours alone. No reservations

required. In her book In Love in Italy, author Monica Larner asserts, “If

you love the wine country, this is paradise.”


il Boscareto Resort

travel to Italy

moreA


About those wines: It is at the heart of understanding the land of Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera, Dolcetto, and Moscato. Wine is its

industry and its essence. It even has its own origin myth, albeit a bit tongue in cheek. At the Wine Museum in Barolo (next door to

the Corkscrew Museum), a Garden of Eden tableau portrays Eve tempting Adam with a cluster of grapes. And when the locals aren’t

talking wine, they’re talking truffles — the fungus, not the

chocolate. It’s part of a cultural reverence for the riches that

come from the ground. These earthy objects of desire were

once considered the food of the gods for their aphrodisiac

powers. These days, they’re the food of the One Percenters,

easily fetching $1,000 a pound. They’re sniffed out by well-

trained mutts in nearby woods and famously feted every fall

at the National White Truffle Fair in the town of Alba. The

climax of the fair is the white truffle auction, simulcast by

satellite to deep-pocketed gourmands around the globe. It’s

the closest thing this region gets to a red carpet event. Last

year, an American nabbed the grand prize, a white truffle

weighing in at 2.76 pounds. His winning bid: 98,000 euros.

This is the quiet corner of Italy. For glitz, head west to

Monte Carlo and Cannes. For exquisite mayhem, go south to Rome. But to find out how a glass of Barolo, a plate of truffle risotto, and

a chorus of cicadas can shake you like a thunderclap, stay right here.

rolex oyster perpetual and submariner are trademarks.

oyster perpetual submariner datein 18 kt white gold

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