In-Cab

In cab- Everything is secured in the overhead compartments.

The sun visors stay in the up or down position.

visor

Check all the glass including the mirrors for any cracks and they should be clean.

The windshield wipers are functioning and have good blades. The dashboard is free of foreign objects that would block the defrosters or block the view.

The levers behind the right side of the steering wheel are the engine brake and the windshield wipers.

engine brake

wipers

up one notch - delay

down one notch - low

Down two notches - high

washers – pull toward steering wheel

off

on

Check that all of the gauges and switches are functioning and are properly labeled.

hazards

panel lights ( brightness )

Head lights

off

on

marker lights

Bright lights are operated by the blinker lever.

Lower left on dash

dome lightback of cab utility light

The levers behind the right side of the steering wheel are the engine brake and the windshield wipers.

engine brake

wipers

up one notch - delay

down one notch - low

Down two notches - high

washers – pull toward steering wheel

off

on

Make sure the fan motor and heater controls are working properly

fan

temp

recirc

Upper right side of dash – Far right switch is the slide pin release for adjusting the fifth wheel position. Center switch is to lower and raise air bags. Left switch is for the traction control system,

traction control system slide pinsair bags

differential lock

auxiliary

The parking brake knob should be yellow, diamond shaped and properly labeled.

The trailer air supply knob should be red,octagon shaped and properly labeled.

The steering wheel should be properly secured, over all good condition, have working horns ( both city and air ) and there should be no more than 10 degrees or 2 inches of free play.

air horncity city

10⁰ 2”

temp

oil DEF

rpm speed

fuel psi

psi

The foot pedals should have no foreign objects under them. They should all have a non slip pad. All three pedals should go down and return freely with no binding. The clutch should have approximately one inch of free play and go to the floor. The brake should not go to the floor..

clutch

brakethrottle

steering wheel adjustment pedal

The floor should be free of foreign objects. The shift boot should not be torn and the shift stick in good operating condition. The seat should be properly secured with a functioning seat belt.

boot

Safety equipment – The fire extinguisher should be accessible, properly secured, properly labeled and fully charged at 10 bc.

The vehicle should have 3 reflective triangles in good condition. Therewould also be spare fuses unless the vehicle has circuit breakers.

The doors should have no obvious damage. They should open and shut properly with a good seal. The locks should work and the windows go up and down freely. The mirrors should not be cracked or broken, properly secured and adjusted.

Four way brake check- The unit should be on a flat and level suface. The wheels should be unchocked and the driver’s window down.

(1) Make sure air pressure is up to normal ( 100psi to 125psi ).

(1)

The four way brake check and air leakage test are a continuation of the in cab inspection. Do them without being asked.

(2) Release the spring brakes ( both valves pushed in ).

trailer spring

tractor spring

(2)

(2)

(3) Put transmission in 1st gear.

(3)

(4) Put both hands on the steering wheel.

(4)

There are four brakes to check.(1) Starting with the all service brake- go 5mph and firmly apply the foot pedal. Feel for any tugs or pulls to the left or right on the steering wheel. If there is any, it could be that the service brakes are out of adjustment, the load may have shifted, there’s a low tire or there could be a suspension problem.

(1)

(2) Release the foot brake and apply the Johnson bar (trolly valve) to check the trailer service brakes only. Let out the clutch slowly while in first gear. Feel for resistance.

(2)

ooff

(3) Release the Johnson bar and pull out the red brake valve to check the trailer spring brake. Let out the clutch slowly while in first gear. Feel for resistence.

(3)

(4) Release the trailer spring brake (push in red valve) and pull out the yellow valve to check the tractor spring brake. Let out the clutch slowly while in first gear. Feel for resistance. When finished with four way check, put both spring brakes on (valves pulled out) and put transmission in neutral.

(4)

Air leakage test- The unit should be on a flat and level surface. The driver side window should be open. The wheels should be chocked (the DMV may have you put the transmission in gear instead of chocking). There are four parts to prepare for the leakage test.

(1) The truck should be at normal pressure (between 100psi AND 125psi). (1)

(2) Turn the truck off , then turn the key on to read your gauges.

(2)

(3) Release the spring brakes (both valves pushed in).

(3)

tractor spring

trailer spring

(3)

(4) Watch for the initial drop of 10 to 15psi.

(4)

There are four parts to the air leakage test. Start with the non applied.

non applied ( service brake not applied )

(1) With service brakes not applied- watch for no more than a 3psi loss in 1 minute.

(1)

Apply the all service brake (treadle valve) at 90 psi.

(2) After applying the foot brake there should be an initial small drop, then watch for no more than a 4 psi drop in 1 minute.

(2)

The third part is called the fan down. Start pumping (fanning) the all service brake.

(3) While fanning down the all service brakes, start looking for the low air warning devises which are an audible buzzer, a red triangle, written message and two red dots by the gauges. They should come on at or before 60 psi. If this should happen while driving, pull over as soon and safely as possible to get the problem fixed.

red triangle

written messagetwo red dots

(3)

The forth part is to keep fanning down.

(4) As you keep fanning- The air pressure will drop between 20 and 45 psi, this will cause the tractor protection valve to close.

(4)

When the tractor protection valve closes, it means the red trailerspring brake knob will pop out therefore locking up the trailer spring brakes.

Coupling

Before coupling, the fifth wheel should be pointed down toward the trailer, properly lubricated and the release lever in the auto lock position (open).

There should be no daylight between the trailer and the top of the fifth wheel. Pivot pins should be in place and properly secured.

no daylight

pivot pin

trailer

The release lever should not be bent orbroken and in the locked position (all the way in ).

The sliding fifth wheel lock pins should be engaged (all the way out ). The slide piston and air line should be secured and not leaking.

lock pins

Your text here

Piston

There should be no loose or missing hardware and no cracked or illegal welds on the frame or platform.

Air line

The king pin and upper. fifth wheel plate ( or apron ) are not cracked, bent, broken or damaged in any way. Also check that the trailer is at the right height before coupling.

King pin

plate

Make sure the locking jaw of the fifth wheel is securely fastened around the shank of the kingpin.

locking jaw

shank

There should be no daylight between the trailer and the top of the fifth wheel. Pivot pins should be in place and properly secured.

no daylight

pivot pin

trailer

The release lever should not be bent orbroken and in the locked position (all the way in ).

The sliding fifth wheel lock pins should be engaged (all the way out ). The slide piston and air line should be secured and not leaking.

lock pins

Your text here

Piston

There should be no loose or missing hardware and no cracked or illegal welds on the frame or platform.

Air line

The landing legs should both be all the way up and have pads. The crank handle should be properly stowed. The landing gear should be in overall good mechanical shape. If there is a spare tire holder, the tire should be chained or cabled in.

Air hoses and light cord on the back of the cab should not be hanging on the platform .

The slide bar is properly secured to the tractor. The slide bar spring is properly secured to the slide bar.The spring is intact.

spring

The hose divider should have the hoses separated and properly supported with no loose or missing hardware.

The emergency hose is properly secured to the cab with no leaks. The tension relief spring is intact.

emergency

service

The hoses are not chafed, cracked or leaking. The tension relief spring on the glad hand end is intact.

There should be no loose or missing hardware on the glad hands.The rubber seal or gasket should feel soft and pliable with no foreign objects in the opening.

hardware

The glad hands should be on tight and look symmetrical with the trailer glad hands. The glad hands should not be cracked or brokenand properly secured to the hoses with no leaks.

Check the glad hands on the trailer in the same fashionas the ones on the hoses and check the service hose andgland hand the same as emergency side.

emergency

The plug on the light cord should be intact and no foreign objects in the holes.

The light cord socket should be free of foreign objects and all the prongs intact.

The plug should be secured by the latch.

The tractor end of the light cordshould be checked in the same way as the trailer end.

The light cord itself should have no exposed wires or insulation, also look for chafing or cracks.

Section A

Check that the hood is properly latched, no obvious damage, all lights and reflectors are clean and functioning. There is no loose hardware. Hood mirrors are secured, not cracked and are adjusted properly. The bumper has no obvious damage and no loose or missing hardware.

With the hood open – Check that the hinges are secured and not broken. Check any wiring for good connections and no damage. The support rod should be properly secured and not leaking

There are five fluids to check under the hood – oil, power steering, clutch assist, windshield washer fluid and coolant. Check the whole engine and engine compartment for leaks and also on the ground under the engine.

Power steering

Oil

Clutch assist

Windshield washer fluid

Coolant

The compressor is mechanically driven and lubricated by the engine.

The compressor is controlled by the governor, which turns the compressor on at 100psi and off at 125psi. There is a safety relief valve between the compressor and the first air tank that opens up at 150psi so the system does not over pressurize.

The build up rate for the compressor is 85psi to 100psi in 45 seconds

The belts have no fraying or cracks and have proper tension. Any V-belts should have approximately ¾” deflection between the pulleys. Any serpentine belt should have about one quarter inch deflection.

All hoses should be properly secured and not leaking, also look for any cracks or fraying.

The alternator is properly secured, is belt driven and has proper tension on the belt. All wires are secured and not damaged

The air conditioner compressor is properly secured with no damaged wires or leaks. It is belt driven with proper tension

Air conditioner compressor

Alternator

The power steering pump is located under the air compressor at the back of the engine. It is mechanically driven and lubricated by the engine. Check it for proper securement and no leaks

The water pump is belt driven and should have proper tension on the belt. It should also be checked for any leaks.

Water pump

The steering components are all properly secured. There is no loose or missing hardware. Nothing is cracked, bent, broken or missing. Look for any leaks, proper lubrication, excessive rust, cracked or illegal welds. Start with the reservoir.

reservoir

To the hoses, steering shaft (which should be checked for excessive free play ), universal joint, steering gear box

U- joint

gear box

To the pittman arm, drag link

pittman arm

To the steering ring knuckle

steering ring knuckle

To the tie rod

bottom of the steering ring knuckle

To the steering arm on the passenger side

steering arm

Everything on the front tractor suspension should be properly secured. There is no loose or missing hardware. Nothing should be cracked, bent, broken or missing. Check for leaks, proper lubrication, no excessive rust, no cracked or illegal welds. Start with the front spring bracket.

bracket

To the springs ( which should be in alignment ).

springs

To the shock absorber, upper and lower spring mounts and two U-bolts.

shock

upper mount

lower mount ( axle )

To the shackle and rear bracket.

bracket

shackle

Mud flap, no obvious damage and properly secure

On sections A, B, and C do brakes, tires and rims

Section B

The doors should have no obvious damage. They should open and shut properly with a good seal. The locks should work and the windows go up and down freely. The mirrors should not be cracked or broken, properly secured and adjusted.

All lights and reflectors should be clean and functioning on the side of the tractor. The battery cover, both steps, three air tanks and mud flaps should all be properly secured with no loose or missing hardware Air tanks should be drained daily. The DEF and fuel tank should be properly secured, not leaking and have good caps. All the fairings should be secured properly with no obvious damage.

Steps on fuel tank and platform should be secure with no loose or missing hardware. The exhaust stack should be properly secured and not leaking. Mud flaps should be properly secured

The frame and cross members should not be cracked, bent, damaged or have any cracked or illegal welds. All hardware should be secured. The drive shaft should not be bent, twisted or cracked and the u-joints are properly secured with no foreign objects in them. Both rear ends and both axles should be checked for proper securement, no leaks and no loose or missing hardware.

Don’t forget brakes on B section

The rear suspension on the tractor should have everything properly secured. There is no loose or missing hardware. Nothing is cracked, bent, broken or missing. Look for any leaks, proper lubrication, no excessive rust, no cracked or illegal welds. Start with the control arm bracket.

bracket

To the control arm

arm

To the axle seat and anchor plate and two U-bolts.

anchor plate

axle seat

To the shock absorber.

shock

To the upper and lower bellow supports and the bellows. Also check that mud flaps are secured properly and all the lights and reflectors are clean and functioning on the back of tractor

bellow

lower support

The flange on the rims should not have any gouges, cracks or deformities.The whole inner surface should be free of cracks, breaks or excessive oxidation ( whether made of steele or aluminum ). There should also be no cracked or illegal welds. The valve stems should be secured, not leaking and have a good cap.

valve stem

fl

lange

The lug nuts and studs should be properly secured. They should not beexcessively rusty or have rust trails. You should also look for shiny threads.Check for any leaks from the outer seal and any loose hardware on the seal cover plate.

outer seal

The tractor steer axle and trailer axles have a sight glass to check the fluid level.

fluid level

full

There should be no daylight between the rims. If there is a spacer, it should not be cracked bent broken or excessively rusty

Inner side of rims should be checked for inner seal leaks.

seal

The tires should have a good bead ( or seal ) where the tire meets the flange of the rim. The side wall should be checked for abrasions, bruises, cuts ( A B C ) and exposed cords or wires. Look for recap separation on retreaded tires. Recaps are not allowed on steer tires.

bead

flange

separation starts here

The face of the tire should have no tread separation. Look for flat spots or uneven wear and any foreign objects stuck in the tire. Tread depth on the steer tires is 4/32” minimum, all other tires should be a minimum of 2/32”.

The tires should have a minimum space of 3 inches between them and no foreign objects wedged between them. Duel wheels should have matching tires of the same size and type (radial with radial – bias with bias ).

3”

Check the the tire pressure with a tire thumper or more accurately with a tire pressure gauge. They should be approximately 100 psi or to the manufactures specifications written on the side of the tire.

Section C

Check the side of the tractor and trailer for any obvious damage. All the lights and reflectors should be clean and functioning. There should be no loose or missing hardware (rivets etc ). The reflective tape should cover 50% of the side of the trailer. The header board (front of trailer) should be checked for any obvious damage, all lights and reflectors clean and functioning, no loose or missing hardware and the glad hands look symmetrical.

The king pin and upper. fifth wheel plate ( or apron ) are not cracked, bent, broken or damaged in any way. Also check that the trailer is at the right height before coupling.

King pin

plate

Check the trailer frame including cross members for obvious damage, cracks, loose or missing hardware and the floor is properly supported.

The landing legs should both be all the way up and have pads. The crank handle should be properly stowed. The landing gear should be in overall good mechanical shape. If there is a spare tire holder, the tire should be chained or cabled in.

The DOT bumper should be in good mechanical condition. The reflective tape should cover 100% of the bumper. All the lights and reflectors should be clean and functioning. The doors should be closed and latched. There should be no loose or missing hardware and no obvious damage. The door securement chains and hooks should be in good mechanical condition for holding the doors in the open position.

The tandem frame is not cracked, bent, damaged or no cracked or illegal welds. There is no loose or missing hardware The two pins on both side are engaged.

Pin

Pin

If there is a pin release lever, it should be in the lock position and not bent or broken. Our truck has an air operated mechanism and it should be properly secured and not leaking

The air hoses on the trailer should be checked from the front of the trailer to the splitter valve and then down to the brake chambers. The hoses should be properly secured and not leaking. The support springs should be intact and holding the hoses a minimum of 18” off the ground. The hose dividers should be in place to keep the hoses from chafing.

sp

rin

g

spring

The rest of the brake components should be properly secured. No loose or missing hardware. Nothing should be cracked, bent, broken or missing. Look for any leaks, proper lubrication, excessive rust, cracked or illegal welds. Start with the splitter valve and air tank (drain daily ).

splitter valve

air tank

drain valve

To the brake chambers which must have dust caps in place.

chamberdust cap

To the push rod, yoke, clevis pin, cotter key and slack adjuster. The slack adjuster should have no more than 1” of travel.

slack adjuster

yoke

clevis pincotter key

To the S-cam shaft

shaft

To the S-cam

To the S-cam roller, brake shoe, pad (or liner). The pad should be no less than 1/4” thick. The return springs should be in place.

shoe

pad

roller

spring

Feel the inside of the drums where the pads touch. If they are excessively rusty, the trailer may have been sitting a long time or the brakes are out of adjustment. If there is a crack ¾” or longer on the shoe or drum the unit is out of service.

feel here

On the trailer suspension, everything should be properly secured. There should be no loose or missing hardware. Nothing should be cracked, bent, broken or missing. Look for any leaks, proper lubrication, no excessive rust, any cracked or illegal welds. Start with the control arm hanger.

hanger

To the control arm, shock absorber, bellow ( or air bag ).

hanger

Control arm

bellowshock

Axle

Check axle for securement and any leaks

Don’t forget rims and tires on C section