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A newsletter by the Renville County Master Gardeners

containing USDA Zone 4 appropriate information Volume 126 March 2019

Meet the Renville County Master

Gardeners

Louise Schweiss

Anderson–Fairfax;

Joy Clobes - Fairfax

Sandy Feldman –

Renville,

Cathi Fesenmaier – Olivia;

Erin Grams – Hector;

Susan Haubrich –

Danube;

Betsy Hennen –

Olivia; Jan Howell - Olivia;

Pam McColley -

Franklin;

Linda McGraw –

Buffalo Lake;

Beth O'Keefe –

Morton; Marie O'Keefe –

Morton

Interns:

Teide Erickson - Olivia Barbara Stone- Renville

The University of Minnesota is committed to the policy that all persons shall have equal access to its programs, facilities, and

employment without regard to race, color, creed, religion, national origin, sex, age, marital status, disability, public

assistance status, veteran status, or sexual orientation

Master Gardener Meeting

Our meeting will be at Max’s, in

Olivia, at 5:00 pm on Tuesday March

5th

, 2019. You are welcome to join us.

Inside this Issue:

Kohlrabi – A Different and Unusual

Vegetable – Page 2

March Gardening Tips – Page 2

AFRICAN VIOLETS: FUSSPOTS –

Page 3

Groom, Groom, Groom – Page 3

Yard and Garden: Grow a Moth Orchid -

Page 4

Pruning Trees and Shrubs – Page 6

What’s Happening – Page 9

Visit us on Facebook at:

Extension Master Gardeners - Renville County

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Kohlrabi – A

Different and

Unusual Vegetable

By Jan Howell

Renville County Master

Gardener

Kohlrabi is one of my favorite vegetables during the

summer as it is easy to grow and can be eaten raw or

cooked. You can store it in your refrigerator in

perforated plastic bags for up to three weeks and can

also be frozen.

It can be direct seeded in the garden from mid-April

until early May and then again seeded later in July.

It does best in cool weather, between 65°F and 75

°F, and when planted in fertile, moisture-retentive

soil. I often will start seeds four to six weeks before

transplanting indoors to get a head start on the

plants. Remember to avoid planting kohlrabi where

you have grown cole crops during the previous four

years as crop rotation is important. Avoid planting

after May 1 as high temperatures will not produce a

good quality kohlrabi.

My favorite variety I have planted is the Kossak

variety but have also grown Early White Vienna and

Konan varieties plus tried a purple variety. The

Kossak variety can grow up to ten pounds but I

normally pick when they are two to three inches in

width. They say the larger ones do not get woody,

but have not tried. The best quality kohlrabi is sweet,

crisp and juicy.

Plant a fall crop directly in the garden in July. Giant

kohlrabi takes about two months to mature. A late

July planting will be ready to harvest before a hard

freeze.

There are many ways you can prepare kohlrabi. It

can be served eaten raw, sliced into a salad or added

to a slaw. You can also slice and use it in stir-fries or

sautés or as I often do, cook and serve with a cheese

sauce. The leaves are also tasty and can use leaves

as cooking greens.

Source: Jill MacKenzie, University of Minnesota

https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-kohlrabi

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__________________________________________ March Gardening Tips Try container gardening if you have limited or no space for gardening. Use a container with drainage holes that can be decorative or as simple as a 5-gallon bucket with holes punched in the bottom. Fill it with a commercial or homemade potting mix. Incorporate a slow-release fertilizer in the mix so it releases nutrients every time you water. Plant seeds and transplants as you would in the garden. Check water needs daily. It’s time for lawn mower maintenance. Always disconnect the spark plug wire when working on a mower. Clean or replace the spark plug and air filter. Plant coleus, dusty miller, pinks, snapdragon and verbena in early March.

Start planting tender bulbs in mid-to late March through early April. Cannas, dahlias, tuberous begonias, and caladiums started indoors bloom earlier in the garden. If indoor space is limited, wait and plant them outdoors in late spring. Plant the following indoors in March: March 15: broccoli, early cabbage, cauliflower, celeriac, celery, eggplant and lettuce. Late winter through early spring is the best time to transplant shrubs. Moving large, established shrubs can be tricky, heavy work. Replacing overgrown or misplaced shrubs may be easier, cheaper, and more successful. Cut back ornamental grasses before the new growth begins. Use hand pruners, an electric hedge shear, or weed whip with a rigid plastic blade for mass planting of perennials and grasses to clip the plants back to several inches above the soil. Smaller grasses, such as blue fescue and blue oat grass can be clipped back or left intact. Source: “Month-By-Month Gardening Minnesota & Wisconsin” by Melinda Myers

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AFRICAN VIOLETS: FUSSPOTS By George and Becky Lohmiller Reprint from https://www.almanac.com African Violets are stunning tropical plants whose flowers resemble violets in color and shape. Their cheerful flowers perched just above a neat rosette of darkgreen, fuzzy leaves may bloom constantly throughout the year. There are thousands of cultivars, which provide a palette of flower colors that include lavenders, blues, pinks, reds, and white. Some blooms combine two or more colors and may be single or double. The leaves are either smooth or wavy and sometimes are variegated. In addition to standard varieties, there are miniature African violets and trailing forms that can be grown in hanging pots. Beginning growers sometimes have trouble getting African violets to flower. This is because the plants are really fussy about growing conditions.

For maximum blooms, they demand ten to 14 hours of bright but indirect light per day and an eight-hour rest period in darkness.

West- or south-facing windows offer the best light in winter, and windows that look north or east are preferred in summer.

African violets thrive best with daytime temperatures between 70° and 80° F and nighttime temperatures near 65° F.

Avoid overwatering; water just enough so that the soil is uniformly moist but not saturated. Use tepid or room temperature water; cold water can damage the root system and will cause spotting if spilled on leaves.

Too little or too much fertilizer can result in a lack of blossoms. Use an African violet food to ensure the right proportions of nutrients. Experienced growers use a diluted solution of fertilizer with each watering. African violets need to be repotted about once a year, but they can be persnickety about this, too. They prefer to be a bit potbound, so use a new pot that is only slightly larger than the old one. Remove about one-third of the old soil and replace it with a commercial African violet potting mix. Make sure that the crown of the plant is just above the soil line. Water thoroughly and the job is complete. African violets really are easy to grow as long as you care for them on their own terms. When rewarded with a windowsill full of beautiful, blooming plants, you’ll know that they were certainly worth all of the fuss.

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Groom, Groom, Groom Reprinted in part from African Violet Magazine May- June 2014

When most people think of taking care of their violet collection, they think about watering, repotting, and fertilizing. Regular Grooming Most growers will remove dead or fading flowers on a regular basis. This is something that should be

done as soon as the flowers fade. The stalks of dead flowers are magnets for bugs. While it sounds easy enough, it is something you need to do regularly. If you are growing plants for leaves, look for small immature leaves and remove them. This is very important when the plants are young. The small leaves have to be removed at some point if you want a strong, healthy plant. These leaves are easy to identify. They are typically the ones at the bottom that are smaller than those on the next row of leaves. Remove the yellowing leaves, these tend to be in the bottom circle. They don't add to the strength of the plant, but rather detract from it. Lastly, be on the lookout for suckers. Suckers are those alternate heads that if left alone soon produce another crown. They can be rooted to produce another plant; however, they sap energy from the mother plant until separated. The trick with suckers is to distinguish them from bloom stalks. If it has two leaves, it is likely the bloom stalk. If it has three leaves, it will be a sucker. Carefully remove the sucker or you might damage the mother plant. Every week or two look at your plants. Pick up each violet and look at it closely for spent flowers, small leaves, yellowed leaves and suckers. Remove all of them.

Washing Your Plants

No matter how good a housekeeper you are, eventually dust lands on your violets. Left unchecked, dust will block the pores of the foliage and leave the plant with an overall dull appearance. Removing the grime is easy - wash your plants. The water should be room temperature or warmer. Take the plant to the sink and give each plant a gentle shower making sure you thoroughly cover every leaf. Since you've already got the plant at the sink, this might be a good time to leach your plant as well. This involves taking a cup of clear water and pouring it through your violet to help rid it of any fertilizer salts and may be built up in the pot. Don't let the plant stand in the water that drain off the plant for violets don't like wet feet. If you are growing in natural light, make sure the leaves are dry before returning the plant to a sunny position. If you need to return the plant to a sunny window, pat the leaves dry.

Conclusion Spending a little time grooming your plants on a regular basis will repay you by blooming their heads off

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January 16, 2019, Richard Jauron, Willy Klein: Iowa State University

of Science and Technology.

AMES, Iowa — Orchid flowers are unrivaled in the plant world for their beauty, complexity and incredible

diversity. Orchids can be found in the equatorial tropics, the arctic tundra and everywhere in between because

of their amazing ability to adapt to their given environment. With so many different orchid varieties that thrive

in so many different growing conditions, it is relatively easy to find an orchid that is well suited to the

conditions that you provide – whether it is a kitchen window or a full-size greenhouse.

Which is the best orchid to grow in the home?

The moth orchid (Phalaenopsis spp.) is considered by many to be the easiest orchid to grow

indoors. Moth orchids bloom for three or four months (sometimes longer) in winter/early

spring. Flowers may be white, pink, purple, orange or yellow. The shape of the three-lobed

flowers resembles a moth, hence the common name.

What are the light requirements for moth orchids?

Moth orchids grow best in bright, indirect light. Direct sun may actually harm the foliage. Ideal sites are east-

and north-facing windows. Plants in a south window should be shaded with a sheer curtain or placed out of

direct sunlight. Phalaenopsis orchids will not grow or flower well in poorly lit areas. Fluorescent and LED

lighting can be used to supplement natural lighting in poorly lit areas. Place the lights a few inches above the

plants. Leave the lights on for 12 to 16 hours each day.

How often should moth orchids be watered?

Moth orchids like well-drained growing media that are kept evenly moist. Growing media include fir bark,

aliflor (an expanded clay material) and sphagnum moss. Moth orchids should be watered well and then allowed

to dry slightly between waterings. A thorough watering once a week is usually sufficient for plants growing in

bark media. Sphagnum moss absorbs more water than bark materials and should be watered a little less

frequently. Plants are susceptible to root rots and death when watered too often.

What is the proper indoor temperature for moth orchids?

Moth orchids prefer daytime temperatures of 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit and nighttime temperatures of 60 to

70 F. Cool nighttime temperatures (around 60 F) in fall help initiate flower development. Avoid exposing plants

to temperatures above 95 F or below 60 F.

What is the proper humidity level for moth orchids?

Phalaenopsis orchids prefer a relative humidity of 50 to 60 percent. Unfortunately, the humidity levels in most

homes during the winter months are well below this range. Humidity levels indoors can be increased with a

room humidifier or by placing the plant on a tray or saucer filled with pebbles and water. The bottom of the pot

should be kept above the water line. The evaporation of water from the tray will increase the relative humidity

in the vicinity of the plant.

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How often should I fertilize a moth orchid?

Fertilize approximately every two weeks with a dilute fertilizer solution in spring and summer. Fertilize less

frequently in fall and winter.

When should I remove the flower spike on my moth orchid?

Moth orchids often re-bloom if given time. Leave the flower stem (spike) on the plant when the last flower

fades. Side shoots with additional flowers often develop on the stem within eight to 10 weeks. The flower stem

can be removed when the stem has dried up and died.

A garden you can stare at to dream of the months to come.

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From: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-

guides/pruning-trees-and-shrubs#pruning-established-trees-

1335961

Quick facts

Pruning changes the form and growth of a

plant.

Pruning can also be considered preventive

maintenance for both insect and disease

damage.

Many problems may be prevented by

pruning correctly during the formative years

for a tree or shrub.

The late dormant season is the best time for

most pruning.

Reasons for pruning

Prune to promote plant health

Remove dead or dying branches injured by

disease, severe insect infestation, animals,

storms, or other adverse mechanical

damage.

Remove branches that rub together.

Remove branch stubs

Avoid topping trees. Removing large branches

leaves stubs that can cause several health problems.

It also destroys the plant's natural shape and

promotes suckering and development of weak

branch structures.

Prune to maintain intended purposes for

plants in a landscape:

To encourage flower and fruit development.

To maintain a dense hedge.

To maintain or encourage a desired plant

form or special garden forms.

Prune to improve plant appearance

Appearance in the landscape is essential to a plant's

usefulness. For most landscapes, a plant's natural

form is best.

Avoid shearing shrubs into tight geometrical forms

unless they need to be confined or trained for a

specific purpose. When plants are properly pruned,

it's hard to tell that they've been pruned.

Prune to:

Control plant size and shape.

Keep shrubby evergreens well-proportioned

and dense.

Remove unwanted branches, waterspouts,

suckers and undesirable fruiting structures

that detract from plant appearance.

Prune to protect people and property

Remove dead branches.

Have hazardous trees taken down.

Prune out weak or narrow-angled tree

branches that overhang homes, parking

areas, sidewalks and anyplace falling limbs

Eliminate branches that interfere with street

lights, traffic signals and overhead wires.

o DO NOT attempt

o To prune near electrical and utility

wires. Contact utility companies or

city maintenance workers to handle

it.

Prune branches that obscure vision at

intersections.

For security Purposes, prune shrubs or tree

branches that obscure the entry to your

home could injure people or damage

property.

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Leave the pruning of large trees to qualified tree

care professionals who have the proper equipment.

Consider the natural form of large trees whenever

possible. Most hardwood trees have rounded

crowns that lack a strong leader and may have many

lateral branches.

Issues to watch for when pruning trees

The most common types of tree pruning are:

Crown thinning – selectively removing

branches on young trees throughout the

crown. This promotes better form and health

by increasing light penetration and air

movement. Strong emphasis is on removing

weak branches. (Don't overdo it on mature

trees.)

Crown raising – removing lower branches

on developing or mature trees to allow more

clearance above lawns, sidewalks, streets,

etc.

Crown reduction – removing larger

branches at the top of the tree to reduce its

height. When done properly, crown

reduction pruning is different from topping

because branches are removed immediately

above lateral branches, leaving no stubs.

Crown reduction is the least desirable

pruning practice. It should be done only

when absolutely necessary.

Crown cleaning – the selective removal of

dead, dying and diseased wood from the

crown.

Proper branch pruning

Cut on a small branch or twig about 1/4 inch above

the bud

To shorten a branch or twig, cut it back to a

side branch or make the cut about 1/4 inch

above the bud.

Always prune above a bud facing the

outside of a plant to force the new branch to

grow in that direction.

Pruning large branches

To remove large branches, three or four cuts will be

necessary to avoid tearing the bark.

Make the first cut on the underside of the

branch about 18

inches from the

trunk.

Undercut one-third

to one-half way

through the

branch.

Make the second

cut an inch further

out on the branch;

cut until the branch

breaks free. Use

multiple cuts to remove large branches

Before making the final cut severing a branch from

the main stem, identify the branch

collar.

The branch collar grows

from the stem tissue around

the base of the branch.

Make pruning cuts so that

only branch tissue (wood on the branch side

of the collar) is removed.

Be careful to prune just beyond the branch

collar, but DON'T leave a stub.

If the branch collar is left intact after

pruning, the wound will seal more

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effectively and stem tissue probably will not

decay.

The third cut may be made by cutting down through

the branch, severing it. If, during removal, there is a

possibility of tearing the bark on the branch

underside, make an undercut first and then saw

through the branch.

Wound dressing is not normally needed on pruning

cuts. However, if wounds need to be covered to

prevent insect transmission of certain diseases such

as oak wilt, use latex rather than oil-based paint.

What’s Happening

In our area ; If you are interested in more information, contact a

Master Gardener or email the Renville County Extension

Office at mnext-renville@umn.edu

March 9 2019 - Gardening Education Day, 8 a.m. - 2:45 p.m., College of St. Benedict, St. Joseph, http://z.umn.edu/GardenEdFlyer Tuesday March 12 – 5:50PM – 8:30PM, Meeker County Gardener's Gala, St. Philip's Catholic Church, Litchfield Saturday, April 6, 2019 – 8:30am – 3:00pm –

Chaska Event Center, 3210 Chaska Blvd, Chaska

20th Annual Garden Fever – Saturday, April 6th,

2019 Carver-Scott County Extension Master

Gardeners

Saturday April 13 – 8 am- 3Pm,McLeod County Horticulture Day, Crow River Golf Club, Hutchinson

Need to contact us? Call the Renville County Extension Office at

320-523-3713, or e-mail us at mnext-renville@umn.edu

Monday – Thursday 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

At the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum: Saturday, March 9

1 p.m. - 3:30 p.m. 150-03-09-19 Creating Habitat for Birds

and Butterflies in your Yard & Garden

Julie Boden, Gardener and Nature Enthusiast

Saturday, March 16 9 a.m. - 3:30 p.m. 150-03-16-19; Get Growing: A Day of

Garden Workshops. This day-long buffet of classes is the answer- in just one Saturday Jim Calkins, landscape and production horticulturist, Research Information Director at the MN Nursery and Landscape Association Saturday, March 30, 2019 1 p.m. - 3:30 p.m. 150-03-30-19

Grow and Maintain Your Own Grapevines Annie Klodd, Horticulture Educator, University of Minnesota

Extension

Tuesday, May 21, 2019

9:30 a.m. - 11:30 a.m. 150-05-21-19 Ornamental Grasses for

your Garden

Mary Meyer, University of MN Professor and Extension

Horticulturist

Saturday, June 1, 2019

9 a.m. - 11 a.m. 150-06-01-19 Special Access: Minnesota

Native Orchids

David Remucal, curator of endangered plants and the Native

Orchid Conservation Program at the Minnesota Landscape

Arboretum

For more information on what’s happening at the Arboretum, please visit

http://arboretum.umn.edu/gardeningclasses.aspx