International Journal of Industrial Electronics and Electrical Engineering, ISSN: 2393-2835 Volume-5, Issue-7, Jul.-2017 http://iraj.in

3D Printing Technology and its Influences on the Textile Industry

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3D PRINTING TECHNOLOGY AND ITS INFLUENCES ON THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY

1OZAN AVINC, 2FATMA FILIZ YILDIRIM, 3ARZU YAVAS, 4ECE KALAYCI

1,2,3,4Pamukkale University, Textile Engineering Department 20070 Denizli, TURKEY

E-mail: oavinc@pau.edu.tr

Abstract- 3D Printing is a kind of additive manufacturing. 3D printers create three dimensional objects by using various methods. 3D printers can be used in automotive and aerospace industries, in consumer goods industries, in military, in medical applications and in food industries along with fashion. There are various 3D printing studies and applications on textiles. In this paper, 3D printers, 3D printing, different 3D printing applications and recent 3D printing developments for textile industry were reviewed and explored. Keywords- 3D printing, textiles, fashion, 3d printers I. INTRODUCTION Adding materials to create an object is called as “additive manufacturing” and 3D printing is a kind of additive manufacturing technique [1], [2]. This technique allows a creation of a three dimensional solid object by laying down layers of materials from a digital computer model [1], [2], [3]. Contrary to 2D printers that print dyes onto the surface, 3D printers put the desired material in consecutive layers to create a physical object from a digital file (Fig 1) [2], [4]. 3D printing can be also referred to as a rapid prototyping or solid-freeform technology [5].

Fig.1. 3d Printers [1]

3D Printers was first invented by Charles Hull in the early 1980s [2], [3], [5], [6]. Primarily, Hull worked

on fabricating plastic devices from photopolymers, then in 1986 Hull obtained his first patent for stereolithography and continued to acquire more patents on this technology [5], [6]. In the following years, there are many developments and subsequent patents about this technique. Many companies have improved 3D printers for commercial applications [5]. The structural data of the object must be prepared for the printer so as to create a three-dimensional object [3]. The structural data of the 3d object can be reproduced from scanning of original real object. If there is no real object, this data can be reproduced from using CAD programmes, such as 3D max, Alias, FreeCAD, Catia, Solidwork, Blender, AutoCAD and Rhino etc. [2], [3], [5], [7]. The output files should be converted into another format (*.stl format), which is stand for StereoLithography or Standard Tessellation Language [2], [2, 3], [5]. The *.stl file of the object does not involve the information concerning the material, color or texture of the model and all these attributes are added in the next preparation process using printer software [3]. A PC and 3D printer are connected, digital files are printed and then the printed object is taken from the printer. Besides, the surface of the printed object can also be polished (Fig 2) [2].

Fig.2. 3d Printing process [2], [4]

In 3D printers, there are various polymers which can be used as a raw material, such as acrylonitrile

butadiene styrene (ABS), polycarbonate (PC), polylactic acid (PLA), high density polyethylene

International Journal of Industrial Electronics and Electrical Engineering, ISSN: 2393-2835 Volume-5, Issue-7, Jul.-2017 http://iraj.in

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HDPE), nylon, steel, wax and polyphensylsulfone (PPSU) [1], [2], [7]. Various printers also can use metal, ceramics or fossil resins along with materials suitable for thermosetting process [2], [3], [5]. 3D printers have found applications in automative and aerospace industries (printing car and airplane parts), in consumer goods industries (prototype development for companies), in military (gun prototyping), in medical applications (producing dental implants, prosthetics, organs, human bones), in food industries as well as fashion [1], [2], [4], [5], [8]. In this article, the usage of 3D printers in the textile industry is investigated and a detailed review has been made. The second and third part of the article is about the 3D printers’ features and their application areas on the textile industry. II. THE FEATURES OF 3D PRINTERS 2.1. Types of 3D Printing 3D printing is categorized as powder, liquid (photopolymer) and solid base types. Liquid type 3D printers (Stereolithography (SLA)) utilize strong ultraviolet rays or lasers to harden the liquid form of raw material for creating solid shapes (Fig 3). This is the oldest and earliest 3D printing process [2], [4], [5]. Objects can be printed layer by layer in a tank of liquid utilizing an ultraviolet laser. Then, the ultraviolet laser follows the objects’ cross section onto the surface of the liquid and the liquid hardens where it hits. Afterwards, a platform that supports the solid layer declines and next layer can be printed above the previous layer [4]. Additionally, in the powder type 3D printers (Selective Laser Sintering (SLS)) (Fig 4), sand, plastic powder or metallic powder can be used by heating in combination with lasers or glues [2], [4]. Each new layer is applied, simultaneously the platform is lowered for building part and this process repeats. These types of machines are more expensive than the others. However, they can produce high quality surfaces and larger size models [4].

Fig.3. Stereolithography (SLA) [5]

Fig.4. Selective Laser Sintering (SLS) [5]

In the solid type 3D printers (Fused - Deposition Modelling (FDM)) (Fig5), thermoplastic materials (polymer wire or filaments) are melted down by heating. Then, these melted polymer is passed through nozzle and laminated [2], [4]. Objects are created in layers on a descending platform and objects can be combined with different materials and can be encolored [4]. Besides, thin films or plastic sheets can be used in 3D printers. Moreover also, laminated LOM which generates a 3D object by stacking layers of defined sheet materials (like paper, plastic or metal) (Fig 6), light polymerized, ink jet 3D printing, electron beam metal are the other types of 3D printers [4], [5].

Fig.5. Fused - Deposition Modelling (FDM) [5]

Fig.6. Laminated Object Manufacturing (LOM) [5]

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Nowadays, the most popular printer type is Fused Deposition Modelling (FDM) type [2], [4]. 2.2. Advantages of 3D Printers Traditionally textile manufacturing systems necessitate tons of fresh water. It takes about 20,000 liters of water to manufacture1 kg of cotton. Utilization of 3D printing systems avoids redundant water consumption as well as energy and chemical consumption [2], [9]. Additionally, 3D printing dramatically reduces waste, pollution, CO2 emission, labor costs [2], [10]. 2.3. Categories of 3D Printers 3D printers can be classified as personal, professional and production types (Fig 7) [4].

Fig.7. 3D printers A. Personal, B. Professional, C.Production

types [7], [11], [12] As far as it is known, there are massive improvements in the 3D printing and 3D printers in various application areas [5], [13]. These application areas include fabrication of physical prototypes in micro/macrofluidics, biomedical engineering (tissue scaffolding, surgical preparations), pharmacokinetics/ pharmacodynamics, forensic science, education, electronics, scaling (industry), and customizable labware and also jewellery and fashion products etc. [5], [13]. Thanks to this technology; 3D printed cars, entire houses, food, custom medications, consumer products and soon 3D printing living tissues can be created [10]. New researches about 3D Printing create new opportunities for textile industry. Therefore, 3D printing is the one of the future production possibilities for textile and clothing sector [14]. III. APPLICATION AREAS OF 3D PRINTERS FOR TEXTILE INDUSTRY Since 2013, 3D printed cloth production has displayed an impressive increment. Nowadays, it is possible to make 3D Printed clothes, shoes, accessories (sunglasses, watches) and so on [6]. 3.1. Flexible Textile Structures and Fabrics The wearable, comfortable and flexible 3D printed clothes could be exigible for many different application types. However, there is a problem about reaching the desired level of flexibility and comfort

without scarifying durability [15]. Consequently, many researches attempt to create flexible 3D printers. English researchers aimed to develop a flexible textile structures using 3D printers. They hope, their project will provide 3D printing technology to become a fully integrated part of textile products. And also, coloration of these printed fabrics is particularly something they’re willing to achieve. Various 3D printed fabrics are shown on Figure 8 [15].

Fig.8. 3D Printed Fabrics [15]

Additionally, German researches have achieved a breakthrough by creating 3D printed weft knitted structures (Fig 9A). They used the both FDM and SLS methods [16]. Some other researchers have collaborated on researching Flexible 3D printed textile structures. Owing to the intervention among the links of the printed textiles, it can be easily manipulated into a fixed shape (Fig 9B). These fabrics have great potential in several textile and fashion industries [17].

Fig.9. (A). 3D Printed Fabric [16], (B).3D Printed Flexible

Fabrics [17], [18] The Electroloom is a fabric 3D printer which allows user to design and print their own clothes. However, there are a lot of interesting developments on the garment industry and unfortunately, Electroloom remains in the background. The Figure 10 exhibits the Electroloom machine and its prototype fabric [19].

Fig.10. Electroloom 3D Printer and an Early Electroloom

Fabric Prototype [19]

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3.2. Clothes The first wearable dress ever made by using 3D printing method (with SLS technology) was Black Drape (Fig 11) [4], [6]. Nowadays, although this dress is part of the Museum of Modern Art, copies of these dresses have been already purchased at some websites for two thousand dollars [6].

Fig.11. Black Drape Dress [4], [6]

Irıs Van Herpen who was the first designer to present a 3D printed piece on the catwalk, is a Dutch fashion designer [4], [6]. Herpen’s 3D printed dresses are shown on Figure 12. The other 3D printed dress samples are called as “Verlan” and “Dita” (Fig 13). The “Dita” dress consisted of 2,633 independent links and around 12,000 Swaroski crystals [1], [4], [6]. There are many other 3D printed dress designs and fashion designers. 3D printed dress of Travis Fitch, one of these designers, was composed of 30 separate multi-materials and multi-colored 3D printed parts. The designer Danit Peleg printed her 3D printed dresses from entirely home type 3D printer. It took more than 2000 hours to print. Alexis Wash is one of those 3D printed dress designers and the designers’ dress was printed with SLS method from nylon and assembled by hand with metal rings.

Fig.12. Herpen’s 3D Printed Dresses [2], [4], [6]

Fig.13. “Dita” and “Verlan” Dress [1], [4], [6]

Kinematic Petal Dress which was designed by Nervous system is made up of 1600 pieces. 13 designers from USA, Asia and Europe designed a special 3D printed collection and presented their designs in Platform fashion in Germany. Charbel Feghaly, fashion designer, printed clothes buy using 3D printers. And also, Bradley Rothenberg designed a Victoria’s Secret Bustier by using nylon. This bustier was 1 mm thick and it’s flexible and stronger than expected. All these 3D printed designs are shown in Figure 14 [20].

Fig14. 1. Travis Fitch’s design, 2. Danit Peleg’s designs 3. Nervous system’s design 4. Charbel Feghaly’s design [20]

Besides all these improvements, Tamicare produced Cosyflex 3D Printed fabrics. Cosyflex is a nonwoven fabric that is created by using 3D printing technology that deposits layers of material to build up the fabric. It is based on combination of elastomer and cotton (Fig15) [21]. The bioLogic team, who developed a special 3D printer which prints natto cells onto the spandex textiles. Natto cells are microorganisms known as Basillus Subtilis Natto. These cells are highly sensitive to humidity, moisture and heat. They will change their size and shape on various conditions.

Fig15. Cosyflex 3D printed fabric [21]

In 3D printing, 3D bioprinter prints the natto cells with a specific pattern of vents. These vents opens when the wearer’s internal body temperature increased and the level of the sweat can be presented on the fabric (Fig16) [22].

Fig16. Bio 3D printed fabric [22]

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3.3. Accessories and Jewelry 3D printers can also be used for creating gadget cases, eyewear, jewelry and some accessories. Many different accessory examples can be seen on Figure 17 [2], [23].

Fig17. There are various types of 3D printed accessories [23]

Fig18. 1. 3D Printed designs that is sewn onto your clothes [24] Some entrepreneurs improved a new accessories system by using 3D printers. With these system, customers can 3D print accessories directly onto a special fabric and then sew these onto a clothing. After downloading the favorite design from Cubify website, a footprint layer must be printed onto the build plane and sew it onto clothing (Fig 18) [24]. 3.4. Shoes Frederick Bussels, who is a 3D modeler, designs shoes by using 3D printers. First, modellers preemptively design their shoes with software programs. Then, shoes are printed by powder-based 3D printers and goes to the sandblasting process in which blowing the remaining powders away for making the surface smoother (Fig 19) [25]. Unlike Frederick Bussels, designer Earl Stewart has combined the traditional shoe styling with 3D printing technology for creating 3D printed hybrid shoes (Fig 20.1) [26]. Earl Stewart’s other 3D printed shoes are called as ‘XYZ Shoes’. He worked together with a podiatrist for understanding the biomechanical performance of the shoes for the wearer. Each shoe is

designed from 3D scan of the individual’s foot. Then, the results were sent to a 3D printer (Fig 20.2) [27].

Fig19. 3D Printed rubber-like Shoes [25]

Fig20. (1). Hybrid Shoe, (2). 3D Printed Shoes [26]

MIT Scientists developed a self-assembling 3D printed (using FDM Method) Minimal Shoe (Fig 21). This Shoe is an active textile and it can be shrunk and have contact around the feet. The Minimal Shoe is created by 3D printing extruded plastic on a heavily stretched piece of textile material. For once, when the stretched textile areas are released, it will quickly reshape. These shoes are much more complex than people tend to notice [28]. Some well-known brands also attempted to make 3D printed shoes and they produced 3D printed active shoes.

Fig21. Self-assembled Minimal Shoe [28]

3.5. Other Application Areas 3D printers also used in toy production. A new type of 3D printer which can form accurate, soft and deformable 3D objects. These objects are formed with the layers of the shelf fabric. 3D printer cuts the sheets by using a laser cutter and then bonds it to

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previously printed layer with a heat-sensitive adhesive. This process is repeated while the 3D object is built layer by layer (Fig22) [29].

Fig22. 3D printing mechanism and 3D printed Soft Stanford

Bunny [29]

Fig23. 3D Printed Teddy Bear [30]

The other new 3D printer type fabricates three dimensional objects from soft fibers such as wool and wool blends. This 3D printer uses a new class of material which is a form of lose felt. This technique contains a process of needle felting where a barbed needle is repeatedly passed through a body of fibers owing to draw fibers down into layers below. The resulting 3D object recreates the geometric forms which are specified in the solid models (Fig23) [30]. CONCLUSIONS Utilization of 3D printers provides many improvements on automotive and aerospace industries, on consumer goods industries, on military (gun prototyping), on medical applications and on food industries as well as on fashion sector. It seems that, with future research and developments, 3D printing will encompass more and more areas and shares in the textile industry for more flexible world. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This conference paper is sponsored and supported by Pamukkale University by the project number of PAUBAP 2017KRM002-022.

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