intro25mm pneumatic sniper rifle

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    remember always wear safety goggles, you never know where or when something willricochet especially when its traveling at 300+FPS

    Fun Fact: PVC shards can't be picked up by X-Rays (this is a safety tip! don't rush or you'llget a PVC shard in you and you probably wont get it out. im not saying you should sneak

    one of these into your luggage and go threw airport security. it would be way to big anyway)

    better video coming soonIfyou like this instructable please register and vote for it in the launch it challenge (by

    click the plus icon next to the title)DETAILED SPECS

    power source------------------compressed airpower source pressure-----100psichamber volume--------------45 ci (approx.)barrel volume------------------25 ci (approx.)c/b ratio--------------------------1.8 to 1(approx.)firing valve----------------------pneumatically actuated sprinkler valve (a "modded sprinkler"valve)pilot valve-----------------------blow gun valvefill valve--------------------------female quick disconnectfire rate--------------------------single shot, bolt actioncaliber---------------------------25MM ( one inch)projectile velocity-------------unknown (coming soon)effective range----------------unknown (coming soon)maximum range-------------unknown (coming soon)optics---------------------------3-9X40MM rifle scopeprimary material used------PVC pipe

    I WOULD SUGGEST YOU DO SOME RESEARCH BEFORE UNDER TAKING THISPROJECT, LOOK INTO THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF PIPE AND THERE RATINGS,HOW TO SOLVENT WELD PVC (THIS IS A MUST), HOW TO PROPERLY DRILLAND THREAD HOLES FOR FITTINGS, THE TYPE OF CONDITIONS PVC CAN BEUSED AND STORED IN. THE MAJORITY OF THIS INFORMATION IS CONTAINEDWITHIN THIS INSTRUCTABLE BUT IT IS BECOMING CLEAR THAT MANY OFYOU ARE NOT READING ALL OF IT. I HAVE ONE FINAL SUGGESTION BUILT ABASIC PNEUMATIC OR COMBUSTION FIRST IF A BASIC CANNON FAILS ITWILL BE LESS DANGEROUS

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    step 1The Parts...

    we will be making this particular pneumatic out of mostly PVC so it is relativelyinexpensive to make. here is what your going to need.

    Parts...

    ( 1x ) 2" PVC cap( 1x ) 2" PVC coupling( 1x ) 2" to 1" PVC bushing( 2x ) 1.5" PVC couplings( 2x ) 1.5" to 1" PVC bushings( 1x ) 1" PVC tee( 2x ) 1" PVC 90 degree elbows( 2x ) 1" PVC male threaded adapters( 1x ) 1" to .75" bushing

    ( 1x ) .75" PVC cap( 1x ) .75" PVC tee( 3x ) .75" PVC 45 degree elbows( 2x ) .75" PVC 90 degree elbows( 1x ) female quick disconnect 1/4"( 2x ) 3/8" by 1/4" compression fittings( 1x ) blowgun valve( 1x ) 1" sprinkler vlavea few inches of 1/4" ID flexible tubbingassorted bits of 2", 1.5", 1", and .75" pipe

    Tools...

    a dremela band sawa drill (preferably a drill press)PVC primer (make sure its primer and not cleaner or it could end badly)PVC glue

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    step 2The Chamber...

    REMEMBER READ THIS BEFORE STARTING and read all of it!

    The chamber in a pneumatic cannon is a buffer zone between the valve and the bike pump/

    compressor. It allows a large amount of air to be stored and exhausted very quickly whenfired.

    this is my chamber, it is a 12 inch long piece of 2" PVC pipe with a 2" cap on one side anda 2" coupling on the other, attached to the 2" coupling is a 2" to 1" reducing bushing. Afterthe chamber was glued i let it sit for an hour (so the glue could partially cure) then i drilleda 1/2" hole in the side of the 2" cap so i could thread in the brass quick disconnect. do notuse any Teflon tape on this fitting, if it starts leaking put some epoxy putty or JB weld onthe section where the threads meet the chamber.

    1. cutting 2" pipe using a hack saw, a band saw would be faster but the hack saw was easierto find

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    2" cap, 12 inches of 2" pipe, 2" coupling, 2" to 1" reducing bushing

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    a properly primmed joint that is about to be glued, note the blue tape that prevents the ugly

    purple primmer from dipping down the pipe

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    the last part to be glued to the chamber

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    1/2" hole being drilled on a high speed drill press with a vice grip

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    step 3Gun Body...

    the gun body connect the chamber to the valve and all the other parts of the gun (trigger,stock, ect)

    first cut a piece of PVC double the length of a 1" socket and glue it into one of the 1" PVCelbows. then insert a a long piece of 1" pipe into the 1" elbow and the 1" tee( but don't glueit) this will help you get the joint between the 1" elbow and 1" tee perfectly straight. nowglue the short piece of pipe sticking out of the the 1" elbow into the base of the 1" tee, usethe long pieces of pipe to make the joint as straight as possible or the barrel will be off tothe left or right of the gun. next is a rather odd step listen closely, i want you to glue theoutside of the 3/4" end cap into the the back of the 1" tee. there are two things you want to

    remember here not all end caps will work do a dry test before you glue it and this is the partwhere the stock is connected to the body so make sure you insert the cap the right way (sothe socket part is facing outwards making it possible to insert a piece of 3/4" pipe). next cut7" piece of 1" pipe and glue it into the remaining socket of the 1" elbow.now cut a shortpiece of pipe and connect one of the male adapters to the remaining socket of the 1" Tee.the last piece your going to need a dremel for you need to modify one of the 1" 90 degreeelbows to it can slid along a 1" piece of pipe relatively easy. sadly there is no trick to doingthis your just going to need to take of a little material at a time until you get it just right.

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    once the elbow has been modified glue the 1" to 3/4" reducing bushing into its unmodifiedsocket then slide it onto the 7" long piece of pipe which is now glued in place. then glue theother side of the 7" long pipe to the chamber. you have now finished the body of the gun.

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    90 degree elbow with a short piece of pipe glued into it

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    once this joint is glued the two pieces of pipe can be remved

    3/4 cap with the OUTSIDE primed

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    3/4" cap glued in place with socket facing out

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    7" long piece of 1" diameter pipe, this is a joint thats is about to be glued note the use of tape

    again

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    7" long pipe glued in place

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    modified 1" elbow slid over the 7" long piece of pipe

    male threaded adapter with a short piece of pipe glued in it

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    joint that is about to be glued

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    male threaded adapter glued in place, preparing to glue chamber and body toogether

    step 4The Stock and The Valve

    now build the stock, you should be able to figure it out using the pictures, i don't have anyspecific length measures becuase i just kinda guessed. the stock is one of the few thing thatdo not need to be glued although it would be a good idea to do so. also you can usewhatever design you want be creative find a combination that looks cool. in case youwonder this is what you needed the ( 1x ) .75" PVC tee,( 3x ) .75" PVC 45 degree elbows, (2x ) .75" PVC 90 degree elbows were for...

    onto the valve, my valve is an orbit jar top that i have modded. normally it would betriggered by an electronic pulse but this does not allow the valve to open quickly so imodified to to run completely pneumatically , there are many tutorials on how to do this for

    example here is one here is another. if you cant figure out how to mod the valve i supposeyou can buy one from here , i know the guy who runs that place hes not going to scam youand his work is very good quality. anyway to install a sprinkler valve on this particularcannon aply a good amount of Teflon tape to the 1" threaded adapter then remove the top ofthe valve and screw on the valve itself.then go ahead and put back on the top. do not put onthe blowgun as of yet.

    side note: be sure to put the sprinkler valve on the right way, becuase it will only work in

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    one direction. there should be an arrow some where on it indication the direction of flow,remember the air is going to be flowing from the chamberto the barrel

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    stock made entirely from 3/4" PVC

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    part of the compression fitting, other part of compression fitting, note the order i put the part on

    the hose, don't use this tubing its not pressure rated instead use the more opaque kind which is

    rated to a much higher psi. i have since replaced this on my gun

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    compression fitting screwed on to the valve

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    applying Teflon to the 1" male adpater

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    valve with top removed so it could be screwed on to the body of the gun

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    valve with top put back on

    step 5The Bolt and Barrel Assembly

    in this particular bolt assembly the barrel moves with the bolt which could cause accuracyproblems if the bushing is not modified correctly. but anyway its a modified version ofTHIS . the first thing you need to do is attach a 14 inch long piece of 1.5", then use epoxyputty to attach it to a piece of wood. This will make it a lot easier to cut, then you needdraw a box that is about 10 inches long (refer to the pictures if you are confused). this willbe the line you cut along with the band saw after the box has been cut out you will need tocut off the last inch on each side where the epoxy was holding the pipe to the wood. afterthe excess has been cut off each side attach a 1.5" coupling to each side. next you will needto modify the 1.5" to 1" bushings so that a piece of pipe can be slide completely throughthem with relative ease. in a stock bushing there is a stopper at the end off the bushing thatprevents pipe from going all the way through. this will need to be ground off with a dremel,

    you might also have to also slightly enlarge the 1" socket of the bushing also. after thebushing have been modified glue them into the 1.5" bushings. then take a1.5inch long pieceof 1" PVC and glue it into the 1" male threaded adapter and insert it into one of thebushings (it doesn't matter which). then cut a small notch into one side off the end of thebolt assembly (this doesn't make much sense so just look at the picture)

    now we must build the the actual bolt handle; it's one of the simpler pieces. it is a hoseclamp with a hole drilled through it and a dowel held in place with a wood screw. it does

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    take a bit a measuring and test fitting to get the hole in the right place, but its worth the timeto get it right. after you have screwed the handle onto the clamp insert the barrel into thebushing then put the hose clamp on it loosely. now force the barrel as far back as it can go,you should notice that it can actually go into the other bushing and it is very important thatit does. once this is complete, tighten the clamp onto the barrel very tightly.

    note : you can make the barrel pretty much however long as you want it. mine was 2 and ahalf feet of 1" pipe

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    the "box" you need to cut out approx. 10 inches long

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    the cut marks

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    1.5" to 1" bushing, 1.5" coupling, modified piece of 1.5" inch pipe

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    1.5" to 1" bushing, 1" male threaded adapter with a short piece of pipe glued into it

    inserting the bushing into the coupling

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    stock bushing note the small ring in the 1" socket, modified bushing with ring removed by dremel,

    it has also been enlarged a bit (hard to tell)

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    the hose clamp as the hole is being drilled (1/8" bit)

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    Screw, dowel

    what it looks like after everything has been tightened and the dowel is cut down to the right

    length

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    insert the barrel like shown before putting on the hose clamp

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    finished bolt assembly note the small notch i cut with a dremel that is used to lock the bolt in

    postion

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    bolt in the forward position

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    excess bit of hose clamp, can be cut off using wire cutters or tin snips

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    the

    bolt on the gun yow may need to take out the barrel to screw the bolt assembly into the sprinkler

    valve (which means removing the hose clamp bolt handle temporarily)

    step 6Scope Mount and Other Add-ons

    in this step i will discuss the additional parts that are not necessarily required but add a nicetouch. my biggest recommendation is paint it makes the cannon look so much better, itmakes it look truly intimidating. if you do decide to paint it i would suggest using KrylonFusion for plastic it gives a terrific finish. i went with ultra flat black but i bet a sweet camopaint job would look really nice on this. when you do paint i would suggest protecting thefirst 12inches of the barrel other wise the paint will make the bolt very hard to operate(found out the hard way so don't get any paint on it)

    barrel supports are small pieces of wood (in most cases) cut to the profile of the pipe, theyadd stability to the launcher when fired and take a great deal of stress off the joints. i would

    highly recommend you make some for you own safety. i traced the outline of the pipes ontocard board then transfered that to a piece of pine that was cut by my band saw to makemine.

    next up is the scope, my particular scope was made for an airsoft gun (almost identicalreplicas of real guns ) and it used an RIS mounting system. this meant i needed a RIS rail toput on the body of the rifle. for me RIS rails are very common and easy to find becuase ihappen to have about 10 semi working airsoft guns (i got them in trade for a piston valve).

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    if you don't have any buy a crappy gun for $10-$20 off hobbytron.com or a similarsupplier. the RIS rail was attached to the gun using 2 hose clamps it took a bit off adjustingbut eventually i could shoot the gun pretty accurately.

    additional items to consider...

    a "noise reducing barrel extension" *cough* silencer *cough* but if your caught with thatyour screwed and that is exactly why im not telling you how to make one.

    a bi-pod, i have one from an AK support type gun but cant find a good way to mount it

    note the blue tape protecting all

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    barrel support

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    RIS

    rail from a cheap

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    step 7trigger assemlby

    the trigger assembly consists of only a few parts but ti requires heavy modification. the first

    step is modifying a short 4 inch long piece of 3/4" pipe. you need to cut two slots in itlength wise so a blow gun valve can be inserted into it. it is rather hard to describe so justlook at the pictures. the next part is the 3/4" 45 degree elbow, you need to make a hole in itso you can connect a hose to the blow gun. once again refer to the pictures of this piece alsobut before you cut the hole remember to glue in a short piece of PVC into th elbow. afterthe pieces have been modified connect the elbow up to the rest of the gun (using the 90degree 1" elbow that was modified earlier) and hold in in place with a screw of some sorts(so the trigger doesn't twist to the side as your firing). once the elbow is secured on the gunfeed the hose through the hole in it and connect up the blow gun valve. then your prettymuch done, congratulation's you have a 25MM sniper capable of doing some seriousdamage

    If you liked my instructable be sure to vote for it in the instructables launch it

    challenge

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    standard piece of 3/4" PVC (4 inches long), modified 3/4" PVC

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    stock 3/4" elbow

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    elbow with a short piece of pipe connected to it

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    the hole, note its location and angle in relation to the short piece of pipe, its very important

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    blow gun valve in the modified piece of PVC (which is now painted) with a strange type of

    compression fitting which makes it a lot easier to hook up the hose in the next step

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    elbow in the gun

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    IMPORTANT : don't use this type of flexible tubing (the very clear kind) it isn't pressure rated and if

    it burst it will cause the gun to fire automatically. instead use the more opaque kind (almost white

    in color) its rated to 125psi

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    the hole thing connected up