Invasion By

Warning:

Paintball markers are dangerous pieces of sporting equipment. Like any air rifle or air pistol, it can cause injury or death. By purchasing this paintball marker you assume all liability. Alien Paintball Equipment, INC. (Alien) assumes no liability for its use, misuse, injury or death. Follow all federal, state and local ordinances. Risk of injury, especially blindness, can be greatly reduced by proper use and handling. It is of the utmost importance that user and everyone within 300 feet of the marker have proper paintball goggles on at all times. Some “finned” paintballs can increase this distance to over 500 feet. Always have a safety plug in, or a safety sock on, between uses. Always put on a paintball-approved safety goggles before uncovering barrel. Always cover the barrel before removing safety goggles. Remember it is the “unloaded” gun that most often hurts people. With an after-market inline regulator, the Invasion can retain air even after the bottle has been removed. Before removing protective eyewear always check and double check that the marker has no air pressure. This can be done by pushing the bolt forward until you feel the spring open the pin valve. If you cannot feel the spring there is air pressure holding the pin in place! The gun is still able to fire! Electronic sensors (Eyes) are not a safety feature! Eyes reduce ball breakage. Paintball guns will fire regardless of the LED color or OLED reading!

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Table of Contents

Safety……………………………………………………………………… 3 Limited Warranty…………………………………………………………. 4 Operating Design…………………………………………………………. 4 Specifications……………………………………………………………… 5 Operation, Air, Nitrogen, CO2, Barrels and Accessories, Hopper and Paint...………………………………………….................... 6 Turning On, Adjusting Ball Speed, Powering Off, Dip Switches.......... 7 Programming....................................................................................... 8 Maintenance........................................................................................ 9 Setting the Trigger, Replacing Ball Detents….………………………… 10 Low and High Pressure Regulators, Dwell Adjustments……………… 11 Optimizing Performance ……………………….………......................... 12 HPR Service, Degassing, LPR Service, LPR Removal....................... 13 Disassembly …………………………………………………….…………. 14 Servicing Modules, Cup Seal Body, Ram Body......……………….…… 15 Inspection Tools .….……………….................................……............... 16 Reassembly……………………………............................................…… 17 Trouble Shooting ………………………………........................…..…….. 18

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Safety The first rule of paintball is: Safety First! Paintball markers propel a paintball at speeds fast enough to cause blindness, even with the barrel removed or at the lowest operating pressures. Do not play, or allow others to play or watch, without wearing goggles designed specifically for the sport of paintball. Never allow anyone to lift their goggles while a gun is capable of firing. Goggles can fog over, paint can reduce vision and some may be tempted to clean or vent their goggles during play, NEVER let this happen for any reason.

• Play only at commercial playing fields. Proper fields will have a chronograph, referees and clearly marked playing areas. Chronograph all markers before every game at the field’s safety limit, usually about 280 feet per second.

• Ramping (shooting more than one ball per trigger pull) dramatically increases the chance of goggle lens failure or goggle dislodgement. Increased safety risks outweigh any perceived advantages of ramping. Goggle manufacturers recommend replacement of goggle lenses after a direct hit. Alien advises against the use of ramping modes. Notwithstanding this, ramping is included because some tournaments specify ramping.

• You will be held liable if someone is hurt from a paintball shot from your marker. Make sure you shoot at safe velocities and that everyone has proper eyewear.

• Never point the marker at anyone not wearing goggles. • Remove the barrel and bolt before looking into the firing chamber and wear goggles or

approved safety eyewear • Use extra caution when the bolt is removed as a ball, or part of a ball (shell and/or liquid)

can fire out of feed neck or back of marker. • Repair of a marker while pressurized increases risk of injury and should be done only by

those qualified in the art of airsmithing. • Turn off marker when operation is not desired.

Read the entire manual before operating the marker. The LPR, Dwell and Electronics can be complicated and should not be adjusted until the player has read and understood the manual.

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Congratulations on your purchase of the Invasion paintball marker by:

We believe our markers to be the best paintball markers available and the best value.

Limited Warranty: Alien warrantees the Invasion against defects in manufacturing for a period of six months from date of purchase. A copy of sales receipt must be included. Solenoids (pneumatic valves) are not made by Alien and are not covered. Warranty on wiring harnesses is limited to defects in manufacturing. Misuse, abuse or alteration of the marker voids the warranty. Alien reserves the right to determine that the wear of a marker is excessive of normal usage for six months and to unilaterally void the warranty. Alien will pay for return shipping costs only, and only within the USA. Owners will pay shipping to Alien for warranty work. Owner will pay shipping costs for both directions on non-warranty work or for international warranty work.

Operating Design: Invasion is an open bolt, pneumatic ram design, yet it is a design distinct to Alien. Alien places the solenoid on the ram, then locks the ram to the gun body and then places the ram and gun body on the trigger frame. The constant air supply is fed directly to the ram. This “Independent Ram” eliminates the torturous air paths cut into the body, or additional lengthy hoses. The shorter air passages equate to faster cycling times. Housing the ram outside the gun body provides a smaller, tighter, lighter marker and one that has a unique and appealing look. Another unique feature to Alien is the patented “Sweep Valve” and “Sweep Bolt” which minimizes turbulence and causes the air to flow under and around the ball. The resulting “Sweep Trajectory” is designed to improve accuracy and increase range. The ball is no longer poked out of the gun, rather swept on a rotating, expanding pulse of air towards its destination.

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Invasion Specifications: Weight: 1 lb. 6.9 oz. - without barrel or battery Length 7.75 inches - back of the grip frame to the front of the body

8.5 inches - back of the trigger frame to the tip of the LPR 20.5 inches - to the tip of the Mayday barrel

Height 2.75 inches - top of the gun body to opening for the trigger guard

(two tubes & top rail of the trigger frame) 7.5 inches - top of the riser to the bottom of the trigger grip 8.75 inches - top of the riser to bottom of bottle adapter

Effective Range Accuracy to 200+ feet: paintballs will still break on opponents at

over 300 feet Ball Detents Dual rubber bumpers Power Nine volt. Alkaline batteries are recommended.

Batteries use a mAh rating. Batteries that are close to or over the 1,000-mAh rating are best; batteries that are below 600-mAh will give limited performance. We have noticed that some batteries, including Rayovac, can show a solid red LED and not cycle the marker.

To replace the battery remove the left grip (gun facing forward)

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Operation: Because Invasion is a tournament level gun it is assumed that the user has the knowledge to correctly attach a loader and an air tank. High Pressure Air (HPA) & Nitrogen: The Invasion includes an HPA inline regulator in the bottle adaptor. Invasion can use either high or low pressure tanks. CO2: Incompatible. High firing rates will freeze the solenoid valve in an electro pneumatic paintball marker and damage the solenoid’s O-Rings. Once frozen, the valve must be replaced. Barrels and Accessories: Alien guns use “standard” barrel threading, the same as found on Cockers and most high-end guns. A rail is included to convert the Invasion to the use of after-market bottle adapter and inline regulator. Standard paintball inline regulators are compatible, BUT the bottle adaptor must also be changed. Note: changing the inline regulator and bypassing the Bottle adaptor regulator will allow full pressure air into the gun and will overpressure your gun and may break your solenoid. Hopper and Paint: Only the fastest hoppers are capable of keeping up with the Invasion’s rate of fire. Likewise the use of top quality paintballs is necessary for highest performance and accuracy. If your Independence is not shooting accurately the cause is almost certainly the paint. Note: The Alien Invasion is built to fit the most popular tournament level loaders. Some loader feed necks are smaller and may need to be wrapped with tape or other material to let them fit snugly enough to clamp.

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Turning the Marker On: The Boards are Instant On! Pressing the power button turns on the electronics. When the button is pushed the gun will fire. Invasion’s board has a “Safety Shot” feature. Any time the trigger is held down for a second or longer the gun will fire . This helps in the event a ball has rolled past the eyes – or to degas the gun without turning the eyes off. When tuning the gun on the LED will flicker either green or red. Green is good battery; red means the battery needs replacing as soon as possible. When the button is released the gun will fire – regardless if the LED light flickers green or red! The LED on Alien Invasion will show as Stop Light Colors: Green = Go, Gun is ready to fire Yellow = Warning, eye malfunction. Dirty eyes, slow bolt return…. Gun will fire Red = Stop, No ball in loading chamber. A quick pull of the trigger will not fire the

gun. BUT Safety Shot is in effect and gun will fire Flickering Purple = Eyes OFF: Gun will fire (limited rate of fire). 4 Eye Sensor Only Teal = Only top sensor blocked. Adjusting Ball Speed: The speed of the paintballs is changed by turning the set screw in the bottle mount cap. Clockwise (In) increases the air pressure. “In is up” Counter Clockwise (Out) decreases the air pressure. For regular play adjust only the inline regulator to obtain the desired ball speed Power Off : Push and hold in the power button until the LED flickers a rainbow color. Release the button and the marker is turned off. Board Functions and Adjustments: Dip Switch Settings Switch 1: Up = ROF Lock On Down = Off Switch 2: Up = Tournament Lock Down = Programming Mode

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Entering the Programming Menus Hold back the trigger and press the power button. Release the power button while holding back the trigger. Board will flash alternating green and red - release within 2 seconds and the board is in Menu 1, displaying a solid red as the first selection. Hold back the trigger for more than 2 seconds, the board will display alternating blue and green, release and the board is in Menu 2, displaying solid green as the first selection PROGRAMMING MENU 1: Timing functions will display alternating red and green and will display solid red when released. Each trigger pull cycles to the next selection: Solid RED = Solenoid Dwell 1-30ms Solid GREEN = Trigger Debounce 1-10MS Solid BLUE = Rate-of-Fire Eyes On 1-30BPS Flickering BLUE = Rate-of-Fire, Fractional Value (10=0.0, 1= 0.1-9=0.9) Solid YELLOW = Max Rate-of-Fire Eyes Off (whole number only) 1-30BPS Solid TEAL= Ramping % -10%,20%,30%,40%,50%,100%,500% Solid WHITE = Wireless Address 1-32 Flickering GREEN = Eye Sensor Debounce 1-30ms Flickering PURPLE = Ramping Activation 1-20BPS When you have the color showing for the change you want: hold the trigger back and the light will go out, immediately pull the trigger the number you want. When you stop pulling the trigger the board will change to that number and then flash back the new value so you know that it is correct. PROGRAMMING MENU 2: Firing modes will display alternating green and blue and will display solid green when released. Each trigger pull cycles through selections: Solid GREEN = Semi Automatic Solid ORANGE = PSP (3 round burst) Solid PURPLE = Ramping Solid RED = NXL Solid YELLOW = Millennium Solid BLUE = Auto Response Flickering GREEN = Full Auto When you have selected the color you want - HOLD the trigger back and CONTINUE to hold the trigger back. The board will flash the new color and then flash multiple colors, and then show the solid color of your new choice. If you release the trigger any time before the board goes through the whole cycles of new color, and multiple colors, and then solid new color, the change will not be saved.

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Maintenance: The main maintenance is cleaning after usage to avoid dirt build up on the bolt and trigger. When the LED flickers red while it is turned on, the battery needs to be replaced. Sudden inconsistency in shots usually means the battery is low. Always change the battery if the guns performance decreases mysteriously. Use only new high quality batteries. Batteries have a mAh rating. Batteries that are close to or over the 1,000-mAh rating are best; batteries that are below 600-mAh will give unsatisfactory performance.

Ball Detents : Double feeding most often comes from worn detents. Remove the eye cover and replace as needed.

Details for Service: The following will show in detail how the gun operates and how to service your marker. However, the best performance is generally obtained by not “fussing” with the gun.

• The LPR Valve Stem should not be removed from the LPR body. • The Cup Seal Valve Body should not need to be taken out of the gun. If a leak

develops and the cup seal cap needs cleaning, it is easier to remove the LPR Body than the Cup Seal Body.

• Regulators both have Pistons with O-Rings that can dry out and should be regressed after a few months of regular play.

• Rammer (Ram and Hammer) operates inside a sealed ram body. Other rammers units are usually open to contaminants and therefore need to be removed and serviced often. This is not true for Invasion. Regressing is not necessary. However, if after several months of use, you choose to service it anyway: Remove the back cap. Grease both the O-Ring and the rod in front of the O-Ring. Use grease sparingly.

• Oiling a Guns Internals: putting oil in the bottle adaptor before airing up the gun is a mechanical gun trick. The solenoid is greased from the factory. Putting oil into the bottle adaptor “washes” off the grease. It also coats the firing chamber and the barrel with oil - decreasing accuracy. Do not put oil inside your bottle adaptor.

Your Invasion should operate for hundreds of thousands of shots without any more than cleaning the bolt and changing the battery. Constantly removing and greasing the rammer or the regulators is not necessary. Do not put grease on the bolt. Putting grease on the bolt slows down the cycling, attracts dirt and increases wear. Those that want highest performance can spray the bolt with silicone for smoothest cycling, but it requires more cleaning.

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Setting Trigger Pull: Adjusting the trigger setscrews breaks the Locktite seal. The setscrews must be Loctited again or the set screws can unwind and the trigger pull will not register and the gun will not fire! Look at the LED indicator to see if the light flashes to know if it is registering a trigger pull.

There are three adjustments. Two are adjusted on the front of the trigger. The trigger switch contact point is the upper set screw. Turning the screw clockwise makes the contact point sooner, counterclockwise to makes the contact later. The bottom screw

limits the backward trigger travel, clockwise for less travel, counter-clockwise for more travel. The top screw limits the forward travel. Clockwise shortens the travel, counter clockwise increases the travel. The trigger return is magnetic. The top screw is steel. Replacing the top screw

with a non-magnetic material will cause the trigger pull to be insignificant and cause the gun to skip and auto fire.

Trigger Removal: In the event of paint/dirt build up, the trigger can be removed without changing the trigger pull. Unscrew the set screws on both sides; it is not necessary to remove the set screws to remove the trigger.

To install the trigger, it is easiest to align the trigger by removing one of the set screws. The trigger rides on the V’s of the set screws. Properly set, the trigger will have very little play. Make sure the trigger is centered in the slot so that it is not rubbing on the walls. Pull the trigger back and tighten the set screws until the trigger will not move. Release the trigger by unscrewing the set screw. Only unscrew it far enough to let the trigger move freely or the trigger will have additional sideways travel.

Replacing Ball Detents: Ball detents are placed first in the hole in the eye cover, then the eye cover is placed over the eye board. The same screw that holds the eye cover in place goes through the board to hold it in place.

If you don’t have the correct detents, Spyder type detents can be used until you can get the right ones. If the ball doesn’t drop to the bottom, trim the length until they do. Spyder type also pictured.

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Low and High (Inline) Pressure Regulators:

� Clockwise (In or Down) raises the air pressure “In Is Up” � Counter clockwise, (Out or Up) lowers the air pressure

The design is a Schrader valve being opened by a piston that is pushed by a spring. Screwing down the setscrew in the LPR cap pushes the disk (1) which pushes the spring (2) which in turn pushes the Piston (3). More spring pressure raises the air pressure. “In is up” Dwell, LPR, and Inline Regulator Adjustments : Three factors control the ball speed.

� First: the inline regulator – the pressure of the air used to fire the paintballs � Second: the Low Pressure Regulator (LPR) pressure – how hard the rammer is

pushed against the cup seal pin. How much the pin opens. � Third: the dwell – the time electricity is applied to the solenoid.

Inline Regulator: Usually between 180 and 210 psi is needed to shoot 280 to 300 fps. Changing the ball speed should be done by adjusting the set screw in the inline regulator cap. Using lower pressure (with higher dwell and/or LPR) means more air must be released to fire the ball, decreasing efficiency. Higher pressure doesn’t increase efficiency and the additional pressure increases the possibility of ball breakage. Low Pressure Regulator (LPR): Recommended at 75 to 80 psi. The hammer has to hit the pin hard enough to open it. Lower LPR can make the pin open too little, so less air escapes. Higher LPR results in more kick. A quick way to know if the LPR is set within a reasonable range is the “Thumb and Pinky finger test” Push on the back of the bolt. The bolt should be fairly easy to push with you thumb but difficult to push with your pinky finger. Raising the shooting pressure (inline regulator) can result in the need to raise the LPR because more pressure is needed to open the cup seal pin. Dwell: Maximum efficiency is achieved by opening the cup seal valve for approximately 3.3 thousands of a second. Less time and the air pressure must be increased, more time and extra air is used. Lowering either the LPR or the dwell can lower the ball speed. However, this is not recommended as lower dwell will cause inconsistent shots. Lower LPR will cause “shoot down” (subsequent balls shooting at a slower speed when shooting at higher rates of fire).

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Optimizing Performance: After break-in you may want to optimize the LPR and dwell setting for maximum efficiency and smoothest shot. (See page 13.) Begin by putting a new high-grade alkaline battery in the gun and have a full bottle of air. Repeat: New battery and a full bottle of air before you change the settings. Also have a good supply of both paint and time available. 1. Turn the dwell up 3 or 4 blinks (most Invasions shoot in the 14 to 17 range, turn the dwell up to 20), chrono to 300 fps (maximum tournament speed). Turn the LPR up a quarter turn (clockwise). If the ball speed increases keep screwing in until the ball speed no longer increases. Adjust the inline regulator so the gun is again shooting at 300. Lower the dwell one milliseconds (ms) at a time until the ball speed drops. Raise the dwell 1ms, chrono, then raise the dwell one more ms, if the ball speed again increased, raise it one more. Find the point where one ms changes the ball speed but the next ms doesn’t. Then choose the higher of the two for best consistency. Best consistency in speed is achieved by having a little too much dwell. Maximum efficiency is achieved by having a little too low dwell. 2. Raise the LPR pressure by about a quarter turn and chrono. A. If the ball speed increases the LPR was too low. Turn the LPR up until the ball speed no longer increases and redo step 1 . B. If the ball speed does not increase, dwell is done correctly. Continue to lower the LPR pressure by quarter turns until the gun starts to have “shoot down”. (“Shoot down” is when subsequent balls are shooting at a slower speed when shooting at higher rates of fire. Slowly shoot the gun at a distant target, and then shoot quickly. If the balls start to drop, and not shoot as far, that is “shoot down.”) Once the guns starts to get “shoot down” turn the LPR back up (in is up). 3. Once the LPR pressure and dwell are set optimally, further adjustments should be made only with the inline regulator. Notes: Optimizing setting can be set at lower field speeds by having at lower LPR setting near or below 70 psi for even smoother shooting. But raising the shooting pressure (inline regulator) to 300, for say a tournament, can result in the need to also raise the LPR because more pressure is needed to open the cup seal pin. Dwell is not the time the cup seal valve opens. There is no direct correlation between dwell and the time the valve is open. Rather, dwell is the time (thousands of a second) that electricity is applied to the solenoid. Some pistons move with less energy than others. It does not mean that a gun is better or worse because it using an insignificant amount more or less of electricity. The Thumb and Pinky test can be a good estimate of the LPR. You should be able to push the bolt easily with you thumb but not very easily with your pinky finger. Invasion is designed to LPR pressure at 75 to 80 psi. This limit’s the guns speed to a high 20’s BPS. Should you wish to have an even higher rate of fire, the LPR is set higher, closer to 100. An LPR that is too high (over 120) can over pressurize the solenoid and cause the solenoid to vent. Extremely high LPR setting will cause the gun to fire – even without the gun turned on. Over pressurizing the solenoid can cause the solenoid to fail and require its replacement.

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High Pressure Regulator Service: The bottle mount holds the high-pressure regulator. Servicing should be limited to annual or semi annual lubricating of the O-Rings on the piston. Removing the cap allows the two spring ends and the

spring to be removed. The piston can be removed by pushing the tip of the piston from the end where the bottle screws in. The valve that adjusts the air is the valve inside the air bottle. This is why when you switch air bottles the regulator must be adjusted.

Degassing: The LPR cap was designed to be an On/Off. However the cap is difficult to turn under pressure. It is best to leave the cap fully tightened down. To degas the gun, unscrew the bottle a half turn, vent the marker by firing a shot. Note: Gun will fire a “safety shot” by holding down the trigger for one second, even when the LED is red – indicating no ball is present in the chamber.

LPR Service: Remove the cap. It should unscrew easily. If it doesn’t there is pressure in the LPR, and you need to vent the gun. Once the cap is removed, the disk and spring will fall out. The piston can be removed with needle nosed pliers. The only service possible is lubrication of the O-Ring on the pistons.

Air escaping past the Schrader valve (LPR creep) is easily checked. Air up the gun with the LPR cap, disk, spring and piston removed. Air should not escape unless the Schrader valve has been disturbed. The Schrader valve can be damaged by tightening or removing with needle nose pliers. The valve should last the life of the marker.

LPR Body Removal : Remove the front grip and remove the screw holding the LPR Body in place. The LPR will slide out the front. The LPR cap needs to be in place to pull on.

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Sometimes an air leak down the barrel will start. This is most often dirt on the Cup Seal Seat. It is best to remove the LPR body and take out the spring and the pin and cap for cleaning – looking down to clean the cup seal seat with a clean swap, if necessary. Removal of the Cup seal is more difficult. If the Cup Seal valve body has not been removed it will not develop a leak around those O-Rings.

Disassembly: To disassemble, remove the bolt. Take the eye covers off and set aside the screws and the ball detents (they are small and easily lost).

Take the grip panel off the left side of the gun (barrel facing away from you) and remove the battery. Disconnect the solenoid connector, but not the eye wire harness . The eye wire harness has small wires that can be broken. There should be no reason to take the eye harness out of the board. In any event, do not push on the eye wires to put the

harness back in the board. Rather align it and push on the sides of the harness with a tool

Next, remove the front grip and take out the screw under the grip.

Next you can loosen the screw at the back. Then slide the trigger frame forward, the gun body and the Independent Ram will slide apart from the grip frame until the trigger frame is completely separated from the gun body and ram body.

The valve pin assembly is easily viewed. Pressing on the valve pin with an Allen wrench should easily open it.

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Servicing the Modules and their components:

Gun Body

LPR Body: Removal is shown on page 13

Cup Seal Valve: To remove the cup seal valve assembly remove the setscrew and, with needle-nose pliers, pull the cup seal pin, and with it the cup seal body out of the

gun body. However, the cup seal body should only be removed because you have a leak down the barrel and the problem is not fixed by taking out the LPR and the cup seal cap, and cleaning it.

The sealing edges of cup seal valves are prone to damage. Alien’s valve body has raised outer edges to protect the seat if the valve body is dropped or hit against another surface. Check the inner sealing

ridge on the Cup Seal with your fingernail, if you can feel a bump or scratch that is where it is leaking. A small nick can cause a leak and once it is nicked it is likely that you will have to replace it.

Before replacing the Cup Seal assembly, grease the O-Rings. The cup seal should slide in easily. You can use the bolt to push the cup seal body in place. Don’t force the cup seal as the O-Rings can be cut.

Servicing the Rammer: Rammer assembly has two O-Rings. The O-Ring on the rammer is lubed directly by

removing the rammer from the ram body. The O-Ring in the front of the ram body is lubed by putting grease on the rammer’s shaft - behind the notch for the bolt. To replace the O-Ring at the front of the ram body, the gun body and ram body must be slid apart and the rammer taken out of the ram body.

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Optional Repair Tools: Because the Alien guns are modular there is a unique ability to inspect and repair them easily.

Alien Inspection and Repair Kit, Quick Release Fitt ing and Hose : Two 5mm quick release fitting, two 3mm quick release fittings and a short and long piece of hose.

By installing a 5mm quick release fitting into the gun body and another 5mm fitting into the ram body, the longer hose can connect the two pieces and the ram can be operated outside the gun while the gun is aired up.

The front screw can be loosened, the gun body can rotate in relation to the trigger frame, the screw tightened and the air will flow into the gun body so that leaks can be easily identified. Note: LPR must be in place with disk and spring.

The two 3mm quick release fittings can be installed in the ram. The back one pushes the Rammer forward. The front one pushes the Rammer backwards. Additionally the rammer can be put into a bucket of water to find any mystery leak. With the body rotated, the Gun Body can be lowered into a bucket of water below the cup seal without getting the electronics wet. In this way the entire pressurized system can be water tested. Always disconnect the battery first. In the event you accidentally drop the whole gun in the water. Dry it off and let it air dry overnight and it will not have been damaged. The two 5mm quick release fittings can be left in the gun, one in the gun body and one in the ram body. In place of the air tube, a hose can be installed when the gun is reassembled. This makes future inspection and service easier and faster.

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For most players that service their own guns a quick release inspection and repair kit is affordable and can be very useful. For a team, at least one or two players should have a kit. Reassembly: Trigger fame should be assembled with the right side panel on, left panel off. To make sure the trigger and eye wires are not broken, turn the board on and pull the trigger. Pulling the trigger should change the LED to yellow, as the eyes do not see ball dropping down and being fired. Gun body should be assembled. The cup seal valve’s setscrew is tightened. Valve pin should open with light pressure. The LPR is aligned with the hole in the gun body. Inspect ram to see that the screws holding down the solenoid are tight. The screws are small however and most anyone can strip the body with too much force. Snug is what you want!

Screw the air pipe into the ram and slide the air pipe and ram into the gun body. The gun now consists of two half’s: the gun body with the ram, and the trigger frame.

The back screw can be started and the gun body with ram body can be lowered and slide back into place. There is plenty of room to store the solenoid wires in the trigger frame.

Notice that the solenoid wire is not connected, but is sticking out of the grip frame. The eye wires slide easily between the two half’s before installing the front screw, while making sure the hole in the LPR body is aligned with the hole in the grip frame.

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Install the front screw, install the front grip, attached the solenoid harness together, install the battery and the grip. Put in the bolt. Turn the power on and slide the bolt back and forth. The LED should change from red to green. Pressure test your gun by installing the bottle. Give the bolt the “Thumb and Pinky test”. If it all tests correctly, congratulations, you are done. Trouble shooting: Won’t turn on Dead battery / Install new battery Electrical wiring / Check wires for cuts, check battery harness Board broken or shorted / Check bottom of board for broken connector. Has board gotten wet? Inconsistent Shots: Bad – out of round paint / Use high quality paint Low power supply / Install, fresh, high quality, alkaline battery Low rammer speed / Increase LPR pressure Low rammer speed / Increase dwell Inconsistent inline regulator / Clean and lube regulator piston Inconsistent Low Pressure Regulator / Clean and lube regulator piston Marker is On, bolt slides (not held backward by LP R pressure) Air is off / Turn air on LPR pressure is low or off / Check for disk spring and piston – turn LPR up Bolt is in front of rammer / Pull pin up, slide backwards and push pin down. LED is green, trigger is pulled, LED doesn’t flash Trigger isn’t pushed against switch / Adjust trigger set screws LED is green and goes immediately to yellow when g un is fired. Eye harness has pulled out of board or eye board / Reattach wire(s) to board(s). Eye harness wires have been cut / Repair or replace eye harness LED is green, light flashes when trigger is pulled , Marker won’t fire, air is on and bolt is firm. Not enough pressure / Turn up LPR or Dwell (Can hear solenoid clicking) Wires are disconnected / Connect solenoid harness (Solenoid not clicking) Wire to solenoid is cut / Repair or replace.

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Turn on air and gun auto fires Solenoid over pressurizing / Turn LPR down, check for LPR leak Gun is ramping or adding shots Gun has been set to ramping mode / Set to semi auto Gun is bouncing / Adjust debounce setting. Set screw at top of trigger is missing or has been replaced with non magnet / Replace Gun is breaking paint Eyes are bypassed / Turn on eyes Paint is feeding badly or double feeding / Replace ball detents Paint is breaking in barrel / Use larger bore barrel Paint is misshapen and breaking when loading / Use good quality paint Gun is not shooting fast Board has been set to slower limit / Set to unlimited rate of fire on semi-auto Shots are not accurate Poor quality paint / Use good quality paint Broken paint in gun / Clean barrel and loading chamber Hot first shot LPR creep / Lube or change LPR O-Ring LPR creep / Remove LPR piston to check Schrader valve for leak, See page 13 HPR creep / Lube HPR O-Ring HPR creep / Check to see that O-Ring is harder clear poly, not black rubber HPR creep / Replace HPR O-Ring, use harder clear poly, See page 13 Raising Inline regulator causes ball speed to drop (In is up) LPR set too low / Turn inline regulator back down, turn LPR up. Slowly turn inline regulator up. If ball speed drops again turn up LPR more. After setting inline regulator, readjust LPR to lowest setting that avoids drop off.