investigating the influence of weft knitting parameters on

21
Investigating the Influence of Weft Knitting Parameters on Physical and Mechanical Fabric Characteristics. A. M. Aldardery 1 , H. A.A-Aleem 2 , E.A.EL-okda 2 , C.M.Al-zean 2 1 Polymers metrology& Technology Lab. National Institute of Standards. 2 Home Economics Dept (Textile & Clothing). Women's college-Ain Shams University Abstract The testing of knitting fabrics before being used in the garment industry is an issue of great importance to improve the quality of the final product. This research aims tostudy the effect of knitting variables, eg. Fabric structure, loop length, yarn count, and yarn material on thickness, bursting strength and air permeability of some weft knitted fabrics. For this purpose three knitted structures (single jersey, rib1×1, interlock 1×1) were knitted with two levels of loop lengths, two yarn counts, and two different yarn material ( cotton100%, cotton polyester 50/50)for each structure to produce twenty four samples; eight samples for each structure. The findings of this study revealed that thickness and bursting strength values for interlock fabrics is generally higher than rib fabrics, and both of them are higher than single jersey fabrics,It was found that the fabrics with the same structure knitted with cotton-polyester yarns shows high bursting strength values more than the fabrics knitted with cotton yarns . It was also found that the fabrics with the same structure knitted using short loop length are thicker and gives higher fabric bursting strength values and air permeability of the fabric decreased remarkably. For the yarn count the fabrics knitted with finer yarn count are thinner, gives the lowest fabric bursting strength value while air permeability of the fabric increased. This research helpsgarments manufacturing to understand the nature of weft knitted fabrics and factors that are affected by these fabrics, which can be controlled to select a suitable raw material for the final product. Key words: weft -knitted fabric, bursting strength, air permeability.Knittingstructure. 1.Introduction: Analysis and testing of knitted fabrics are done for evaluating the quality aspects of the garments made from knitted fabrics. It helps to assess the quality of the end product, * Corresponding author:[email protected]

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Page 1: Investigating the Influence of Weft Knitting Parameters on

Investigating the Influence of Weft Knitting Parameters on Physical and Mechanical Fabric

Characteristics.

A. M. Aldardery1, H. A.A-Aleem

2, E.A.EL-okda

2, C.M.Al-zean

2

1Polymers metrology& Technology Lab. National Institute of Standards.

2Home Economics Dept (Textile & Clothing). Women's college-Ain Shams University

Abstract

The testing of knitting fabrics before being used in the garment industry is an issue of great

importance to improve the quality of the final product. This research aims tostudy the effect

of knitting variables, eg. Fabric structure, loop length, yarn count, and yarn material on

thickness, bursting strength and air permeability of some weft knitted fabrics. For this purpose

three knitted structures (single jersey, rib1×1, interlock 1×1) were knitted with two levels of

loop lengths, two yarn counts, and two different yarn material ( cotton100%, cotton polyester

50/50)for each structure to produce twenty –four samples; eight samples for each structure.

The findings of this study revealed that thickness and bursting strength values for interlock

fabrics is generally higher than rib fabrics, and both of them are higher than single jersey

fabrics,It was found that the fabrics with the same structure knitted with cotton-polyester

yarns shows high bursting strength values more than the fabrics knitted with cotton yarns . It

was also found that the fabrics with the same structure knitted using short loop length are

thicker and gives higher fabric bursting strength values and air permeability of the fabric

decreased remarkably. For the yarn count the fabrics knitted with finer yarn count are thinner,

gives the lowest fabric bursting strength value while air permeability of the fabric increased.

This research helpsgarments manufacturing to understand the nature of weft knitted fabrics

and factors that are affected by these fabrics, which can be controlled to select a suitable raw

material for the final product.

Key words: weft -knitted fabric, bursting strength, air permeability.Knittingstructure.

1.Introduction:

Analysis and testing of knitted fabrics are done for evaluating the quality aspects of the

garments made from knitted fabrics. It helps to assess the quality of the end product,

* Corresponding author:[email protected]

Page 2: Investigating the Influence of Weft Knitting Parameters on

performance of the fabric during manufacturing and the end use. Recently Knitted garments

have become a key component in the wardrobe of most women’s. This was not a coincidence,

but it was a result of the special properties which is fundamentally different from the

properties of woven garments. And because it’s Tough competition in the garment industry,

the manufactures must begin to increase their knowledge of the properties of the knitted

fabrics as new and popular textiles. Also they must take in consideration when planning the

quality of knitted fabrics it is necessary to know the relations between the quality of the

product and the parameters of the process. The coordination of these parameters and keeping

them in proper relation makes better quality products of knitted fabricsV.Cepujnoskaet al,

1996.

The thickness of a fabric is one of its basic properties; giving information on its warmth,

weight and stiffnessJ.Hu, 2008.In some cases fabric weight per unit area is used

commercially as an indicator of thicknessB.Saville, 1999. The fabric with coarser yarn count

and short loop length gives the higher fabric thickness and vise versaZ.Abdlmegiedet al,

2011. The effect of knit structure, relaxation processes and their interactions is highly

significant on fabric thickness, although knit structure has the greatest effectN.Emirhanovaet

al, 2008.

Bursting strength is the multi directional forces exerted perpendicularly on the fabric surface

to break off fabricS.Mavruzet al, 2007. S. Mavruzet al, 2010.Bursting strength test for

knitted fabrics gives the knitted garment producer a prediction nearby of how these fabrics

will extend during end use. The effect of knit structures on the bursting strength of fabric is

highly significantY. Kavuşturan, 2002.The bursting properties of knitted fabrics greatly

affected with loop length, with the decrease of loop length bursting strength increasesand vise

versaS.Yesminet al, 2014.Z.Abdlmegiedet al, 2011.

Air permeability is often used to evaluate and compare how the fabrics will allow the air flow

to penetrate easily through them. In other words it measures the breathability of fabrics. The

air permeability one of the tests that should be considered when examining how comfortable

will be the fabrics during the end use, by this test the garment manufacturer will be able to

decide its application. The shape and value of the pores and the inter-thread channels of the

fabric has significant effect on the air permeabilityA.Olsauskiene et al, 2004.F.Çeken,

1997.Y. Kavuşturan,2002.N.Emirhanova, et al, 2008, analyzed the effects of knit structures

on air permeability.

Page 3: Investigating the Influence of Weft Knitting Parameters on

The matter with knitted fabrics did not stop at just the testing phase, but also arrived to the

existence of many researches to predict the outcome results before testingF. Marsalet al

2009.P. G. Ünalet al, 2011,S. Ertugrulet al, 2000.

1.2 Aim of the work

The aim of this research is to investigate the influence of knitting structure, loop length, yarn

count and yarn materialon thickness, bursting strength and air permeability of weft knitted

fabrics and use them as a parameters that can be controlled to reach the suitable fabrics for the

end product.

1.3 Methodology

Experimental and comparative study.

1.4 Search Limits

-fabrics were knitted at El Nasr for spinning, weaving and knitting (CHOURBAGUI), Cairo,

ARE.

-The physical and mechanical tests for all examined knitted fabrics were measured at the

National Institute for Measurement and Calibration according to A.S.T.M standards;it is

worth mentioning that the lab holds a quality certification.

1.5 Terminology

-weft knitting: Knitted fabrics are formed by interlocking loops of yarns. The interlocking of

these loops can be done by either vertical or horizontal movement. When the yarns are

introduced in a crosswise direction, at right angles to the direction of growth of the fabric, the

knit is known as a weft knit.

-Single jersey: made with a complete absence of any fancy mechanism. The stitches are side

by side in the same plane and show semicircular loops on the technical back and the

appearance of v-shaped stitches on the front

-Rib: a knitted fabric with vertical rows of loops meshed in the opposite direction to other

Wales

-Interlock: it is composed of two 1/1 ribs interlocked together with crossed sinker WalesD. J.

Spencer, 2001.

Page 4: Investigating the Influence of Weft Knitting Parameters on

2. Materials and Method

Twenty-four knitted fabrics were knitted that varied in terms of blend ratio, yarn count, loop

lengths, and finally the knitting structure; the selected structures were single jersey, rib 1×1,

and interlock 1×1 produced using circular machine Mayer &Cie of “juage 20, 18, 20”. The

experimental variables are given in table 1.

Steps of finishing knitted samples:

1- Scouring

2- Rinsing in water and air dried

3- Half bleaching

4- Softening using suitable agent

5- Full relaxation (wet relaxation) then dried for 40 minutes at 80 ° C (dry relaxation)

Table1. Experimental variables for the twenty-four tested samples.

Stitch length

(m.m)

Yarn

count

Blending ratio

%

Material Fabric

structure

Fabric

code.

3 36 100 Cotton

Sin

gle

jer

sey

1 S.J

3.5 36 100 Cotton 2 S.J

3 30 100 Cotton 3 S.J

3.5 30 100 Cotton 4 S.J

3 36 50/50 Cotton/polyester 5 S.J

3.5 36 50/50 Cotton/polyester 6 S.J

3 30 50/50 Cotton/polyester 7 S.J

3.5 30 50/50 Cotton/polyester 8 S.J

2.85 36 100 Cotton

Rib

1 R

3 36 100 Cotton 2R

2.85 30 100 Cotton 3 R

3 30 100 Cotton 4R

2.85 36 50/50 Cotton/polyester 5R

3 36 50/50 Cotton/polyester 6 R

2.85 30 50/50 Cotton/polyester 7R

Page 5: Investigating the Influence of Weft Knitting Parameters on

3 30 50/50 Cotton/polyester 8R

2 36 100 Cotton

Inte

r lo

ck

1 I.L

2.25 36 100 Cotton 2 I.L

2 30 100 Cotton 3 I.L

2.25 30 100 Cotton 4 I.L

2 36 50/50 Cotton/polyester 5 I.L

2.25 36 50/50 Cotton/polyester 6 I.L

2 30 50/50 Cotton/polyester 7 I.L

2.25 30 50/50 Cotton/polyester 8 I.L

S.J= Single Jersey R= Rib I.L= Interlock

- The physical properties test:

- Air permeability according to ASTM D 737-04(2012)

-Thickness according to ASTM D1777-96(2011)

-Fabric weight according to ASTM D3776/ D3776M-09a

- The mechanical properties test:

-Burst strength according to ASTM D 3787-07(2001)

The Average results for Tested Samples are shown in table 2

Page 6: Investigating the Influence of Weft Knitting Parameters on

Table2. The Average results for Tested Samples

Bursting

strength

n/ cm2

Air

permeability/

Cm3/cm2/sec

Thickness/

mm

Fabric

Weight

g/m2

Stitch

Density

Wales

per cm

Course

per cm

Fabric

structure

Fabric

code.

264 109 0.4 105 256 16 16

Sin

gle

jer

sey

1 S.J

234 120 0.4 86 168 14 12 2 S.J

298 102 0.5 142 224 14 16 3 S.J

246 111 0.5 115 168 14 12 4 S.J

427 140 0.4 109 288 16 18 5 S.J

344 161 0.4 91 168 14 12 6 S.J

487 112 0.5 136 252 14 18 7 S.J

370 124 0.5 113 168 14 12 8 S.J

353 90.5 0.7 183 192 12 16

Rib

1 R

255 109 0.6 135 168 12 14 2R

354 61.3 0.8 177 168 12 14 3 R

282 69.5 0.7 188 192 12 16 4R

457 84.3 0.6 157 168 12 14 5R

369 104 0.6 142 168 12 14 6 R

500 81 0.7 186 168 12 14 7R

490 90 0.7 130 168 12 14 8R

389 61.8 0.8 150 140 14 10

Inte

r lo

ck

1 I.L

338 76 0.7 175 160 16 10 2 I.L

430 45.6 0.9 217 168 14 12 3 I.L

350 47.8 0.9 199 140 14 10 4 I.L

620 71.4 0.7 179 160 16 10 5 I.L

608 86.5 0.7 168 140 14 10 6 I.L

650 51 0.8 226 168 14 12 7 I.L

634 74.9 0.8 205 140 14 10 8 I.L

S.J= Single Jersey R= Rib I.L= Interlock

Page 7: Investigating the Influence of Weft Knitting Parameters on

3. Results and Discussion

3.1 Fabric thickness

3.1.1 Effect of knitting Structure on fabric thickness

It was noticed that changing the knitting structure has a strong effect on the thickness of the

fabric. In figure 1, the test results which indicate that the interlock fabrics is generally thicker

than rib fabrics, and both of them are thicker than single jersey fabrics

3.1.2 Effect of yarn type and yarn count on fabric thickness

Changing of blend ratio didn’t effect on fabric thickness in each structure. While the relation

between the fabric thickness and the yarn count According to figures 2, 3 and 4 is directly

proportional, in other words the fabric with coarser yarn count gives the higher fabric

thickness.

00.10.20.30.40.50.60.70.80.9

1

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

S.J 0.4 0.4 0.5 0.5 0.4 0.4 0.5 0.5

R 0.7 0.6 0.8 0.7 0.6 0.6 0.7 0.7

I.L 0.8 0.7 0.9 0.9 0.7 0.7 0.8 0.8

Fab

ric

thic

kne

ss, m

.m

Figure 1. Effect of knitting structure on fabric thickness

Page 8: Investigating the Influence of Weft Knitting Parameters on

00.10.20.30.40.50.60.70.80.9

1

1S.J/3S.J 2S.J/4S.J 5S.J/7S.J 6S.J/8S.J

0.5 0.5 0.5 0.50.4 0.4 0.4 0.4

Fab

ric

thic

knes

s m

.m

Yarn count

Figure 2. Effect of yarn count on thickness of Single Jersy knitted fabrics

S.J -yarn count 30

S.J -yarn count36

00.10.20.30.40.50.60.70.80.9

1

1R/3R 2R/4R 5R/7R 6R/8R

0.80.7 0.7 0.70.7

0.6 0.6 0.6

Fab

ric

thic

kne

ss m

.m}

yarn count

Figure 3. Effect of yarn count on thickness of Rib knitted fabrics

R- yarn count 30

R.- yarn count 36

00.10.20.30.40.50.60.70.80.9

1

1I.L/3I.L 2I.L/4I.L 5I.L/7I.L 6I.L/8I.L

0.9 0.90.8 0.80.8

0.7 0.7 0.7

Fab

ric

thic

kne

ss m

.m

Yarn count

Figure 4. Effect of yarn count on thickness of interlock knitted fabrics

I.L -yarn count30

I.L- yarn count36

Page 9: Investigating the Influence of Weft Knitting Parameters on

3.1.3 Effect of loop length on fabric thickness

It is clear from figure 5 that changing loop length didn’t affect the thickness of the single

jersey fabrics. On the other hand, the results of rib and interlock fabrics are illustrated in

figures 6 and 7; which show that the relation between the thickness and the loop length is an

inversely proportional, in other words the fabric with short loop length gives the higher fabric

thickness.

00.10.20.30.40.50.60.70.80.9

1

1S.J /2S.J 3S.J /4S.J 5S.J/ 6S.J 7S.J/ 8S.J

0.40.5

0.40.5

0.40.5

0.40.5

Fab

ric

thic

knes

s m

.m

Loop length

Figure 5. Effect of loop length on thickness of Single Jersy knitted fabrics

S.J loop length 3

S.J loop length 3.5

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1R /2R 3R/ 4R 5R /6R 7R /8R

0.70.8

0.60.7

0.60.7

0.60.7

Fab

ric

thic

knes

s m

.m

Loop length

Figure 6. Effect of loop length on thickness of Rib knitted fabrics

R- loop length 2.8

R- loop length3

Page 10: Investigating the Influence of Weft Knitting Parameters on

3.2 Bursting strength of knitted fabrics

3.2.1 Effect of knitting structure on bursting strength

The test results that are illustrated in figure 8 indicate that the maximum bursting strength

occurred in interlock fabrics and in the case of single jersey fabrics low bursting strength

values were obtained. This is because of the difference of fabric structure and fabric aerial

density and lower tightness factor of single jersey. It was also noticed that Knitted Fabrics

with lowest values of bursting strength will extend less but more easily.

00.10.20.30.40.50.60.70.80.9

1

1I.L/2I.L 3I.L/4I.L 5I.L/ 6I.L 7I.L/ 8I.L

0.80.9

0.70.8

0.7

0.9

0.70.8

Fab

ric

thic

knes

s m

.m

Loop length

Figure 7. Effect of loop length on thickness of interlock knitted fabrics

I.L loop length 2

I.L loop length2.25

0100200300400500600700

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

S.J 264 234 298 246 427 344 487 370

R 353 255 354 282 457 369 500 490

I.L 389 338 430 350 620 608 650 634

bu

rsti

ng

stre

ngt

h,N

/cm

2

Figure 8. Effect of knitting structure on bursting strength

Page 11: Investigating the Influence of Weft Knitting Parameters on

3.2.2 Effect of yarn type on bursting strength.

As illustrated in Figures 9, 10 and 11, the fabrics which were produced from blended fibers

[cotton/polyester 50/50] is generally higher bursting strength than the knitted fabrics which

were produced from 100% cotton fibers, as might be expected since polyester yarns have

higher strength than cotton yarn.

0

100

200

300

400

500

600

700

1S.J/5S.J 2S.J/6S.J 3S.J/7S.J 4S.J/8S.J

264234

298246

427

344

487

370

bu

rsti

ng

stre

ngt

h,N

/cm

2

Yarn type

Figure 9.Effect of yarn type on bursting strength of single jersy knitted fabrics

S.J -100% cotton

S.J 50/50 cotton-polyster

0

100

200

300

400

500

600

700

1R/5R 2R/6R 3R/7R 4R/8R

353

255

354282

457

369

500 490

bu

rsti

ng

stre

ngt

h,N

/cm

2

Yarn type

Figure 10. Effect of yarn type on bursting strength of Rib knitted fabrics

R 100% cotton

R 50/50 cotton-polyster

Page 12: Investigating the Influence of Weft Knitting Parameters on

3.2.3 Effect of loop length on bursting strength

Close investigation of figures 12, 13, 14 clarifies that the relationship between loop lengths

and bursting strength are inversely proportional, In other words as the loop length in the same

knitting structure increased, the bursting strength value decreased and vise versa.

.

0

200

400

600

800

1I.L/5I.L 2I.L/6I.L 3I.L/7I.L 4I.L/8I.L

389338

430350

620 608650 634

bu

rsti

ng

stre

ngt

h,N

/cm

2

Yarn type

Figure 11. Effect of yarn type on bursting strength of interlock knitted fabrics

IL. 100 % cotton

IL. 50/50 cotton-polyster

0

100

200

300

400

500

600

700

1S.J/2S.J 3S.J/4S.J 5S.J/6S.J 7S.J/8S.J

264298

427487

234 246

344 370

bu

rsti

ng

stre

ngt

h,N

/cm

2

Loop length

Figure 12.Effect of loop length on bursting strength of single jersy fabrics

S.J loop length 3

S.J loop length 3.5

Page 13: Investigating the Influence of Weft Knitting Parameters on

3.2.4 Effect of yarn count on bursting strength

Figures 15, 16, 17 shows the test results which indicate that there is a direct proportional

relation between the bursting strength and the yarn count for the three knitted structures. In

the three knitted fabrics the fabric with coarser yarn count gives the higher fabric bursting

strength value.

0

100

200

300

400

500

600

700

1R/2R 3R/4R 5R/6R 7R/8R

353 354

457500

255 282

369

490b

urs

tin

g st

ren

gth

,N/c

m2

Loop length

Figure 13.Effect of loop length on bursting strength of Rib fabrics

R-loop length 2.8

R- loop length3

0

100

200

300

400

500

600

700

1I.L/2I.L 3I.L/4I.L 5I.L/6I.L 7I.L/8I.L

389430

620650

338 350

608 634

bu

rsti

ng

stre

ngt

h,N

/cm

2

Loop length

Figure 14.Effect of loop length on bursting strength of interlock fabrics

I.L loop length 2

I.L loop length2.25

Page 14: Investigating the Influence of Weft Knitting Parameters on

0

100

200

300

400

500

600

700

1S.J/3S.J 2S.J/4S.J 5S.J/7S.J 6S.J/8S.J

264 234

427344298

246

487

370b

urs

tin

g st

ren

gth

,N/c

m2

Yarn count

Figure 15.Effect of yarn count on bursting strength of single jersy fabrics

S.J -yarn count36

S.J yarn count 30

0

100

200

300

400

500

600

700

1R/3R 2R/4R 5R/7R 6R/8R

353

255

457

369354

282

500 490

bu

rsti

ng

stre

ngt

h,N

/cm

2

Yarn count

Figure 16.Effect of yarn count on bursting strength of Rib fabrics

R-yarn count 36

R- yarn count 30

0

100

200

300

400

500

600

700

1I.L/3I.L 2I.L/4I.L 5I.L/7I.L 6I.L/8I.L

389338

620 608

430350

650 634

bu

rsti

ng

stre

ngt

h,N

/cm

2

Yarn count

Figure 17.Effect of yarn count on bursting strength of interlock fabrics

IL.-yarn count 36

IL.yarn count 30

Page 15: Investigating the Influence of Weft Knitting Parameters on

3.3 Air permeability

3.3.1Effect of knitting structure on fabric air permeability

In this study Single jersey fabrics showed higher results in air permeability values, while the

air permeability values for the rib and interlock fabrics were lessas shown in figure 18, the

knitting structure was the main reason of these results. The knitting structure of the interlock

and rib fabrics is getting tighter and theporous are getting smaller; therefore, the value of air

permeability decreases.

3.3.2 Effect of yarn type and yarn count on fabric air permeability.

The relation between the air permeability and the yarn count is directly proportional, in other

words the fabrics knitted with finer yarn count gives the higher air permeability values, while

yarn type has a slight different effect on air permeability values, this is shown in figures 19,

20 and 21

020406080

100120140160180

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

S.J 109 120 102 111 140 161 112 124

R 90.5 109 61.3 69.5 84.3 104 81 90

I.L 61.8 76 45.6 47.8 71.4 86.5 51 74.9

Air

per

mea

bili

ty c

m3

/cm

2/s

Figure 18. Effect of knitting structure on fabric air permeability

Page 16: Investigating the Influence of Weft Knitting Parameters on

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

140

160

180

1S.J/3S.J 2S.J/4S.J 5S.J/7S.J 6S.J/8S.J

109120

140

161

102111 112

124

Air

per

mea

bili

ty c

m3

/cm

2/s

Yarn count

Figure 19.Effect of yarn count on air permeability of single jersy fabrics

S.J-yarn count 36

S.J-yarn count 30

0

50

100

150

200

1R/3R 2R/4R 5R/7R 6R/8R

90.5109

84.3104

61.369.5 81

90

Air

per

mea

bili

ty c

m3

/cm

2/s

Yarn count

Figure 20.Effect of yarn count on air permeability of Rib fabrics

R- yarn count 36

R-yarn count 30

0

50

100

150

200

1I.L/3I.L 2I.L/4I.L 5I.L/7I.L 6I.L/8I.L

61.876 71.4

86.5

45.6 47.8 5174.9

Air

per

mea

bili

ty c

m3

/cm

2/s

Yarn count

Figure 21.Effect of yarn count on air permeability of interlock fabrics

IL- yarn count 36

IL.-yarn count 30

Page 17: Investigating the Influence of Weft Knitting Parameters on

3.3.3 Effect of loop length on fabric air permeability

The test results as illustrated in Figures 22, 23 and 24 indicate that, in all samples, as the

loop length was increased, the air permeability of the fabric increases remarkably. This means

that the relation between the air permeability and the loop length for the three knitted

structures is directly proportional.

0

50

100

150

200

1S.J/2S.J 3S.J/4S.J 5S.J/6S.J 7S.J/8S.J

109 102140

112120111

161124

Air

pe

rme

abili

ty c

m3

/cm

2/s

Loop length

Figure 22.Effect of loop length on air permeability of single jersy fabrics

S.J loop length 3

S.J loop length 3.5

0

50

100

150

200

1R/2R 3R/4R 5R/6R 7R/8R

90.5

61.3

84.3 81

109

69.5

10490

Air

pe

rme

abili

ty c

m3

/cm

2/s

Loop length

Figure 23.Effect of loop length on air permeability of Rib fabrics

R-loop length 2.8

R- loop length3

Page 18: Investigating the Influence of Weft Knitting Parameters on

4. Conclusion

From the present study we can conclude that the knitting structure hasa significant impact on

fabric thickness, it was found that double knitted fabrics such as interlock and rib fabrics are

thicker much more than single knitted fabrics such as single jersey fabrics.

Yarn count and loop length are another parameters that can be controlled to increase or

decrease the thickness values, by using coarser or fine yarns and short or long loop length.

For the fabric bursting strength it was found that double knitted fabrics with coarser yarn

counts and shorter loop length can extend much more than single knitted fabrics, but in case

the using of a single knitted fabric is essential, it will be useful to use coarser yarn count and

shorter stitches as possible. Yarn type is another parameter that can be controlled to increase

the bursting strength values, by using yarns with higher strength.

For the air permeability the single knitted fabrics has the highest air permeability, the highest

course count yarns has the lowest air permeability values. Therefore, raising the stitch length

leads to a looser surface on the fabric, thereby increasing the air permeability.

By testing the fabrics the garments manufacturercan use the results in two ways, one of them

to determine the appropriate use, the other to know the parameters that can be changed to

reach the appropriate fabrics.There still a need for more researchesthat studymoretypes of

yarns, blending ratio and knitting structures. And it will be very useful if there are simple tests

to evaluatefabric characteristics, eg. Fabric weight, thickness, shear, drape, and stretch to able

the garments manufacturerto do it them self’s in their work area.

020406080

100120140160180200

1I.L/2I.L 3I.L/4I.L 5I.L/6I.L 7IL/8IL

61.845.6

71.451

76

47.8

86.574.9

Air

pe

rme

abili

ty c

m3

/cm

2/s

Loop length

Figure 24.Effect of loop length on air permeability of interlock fabrics

I.L loop length 2

I.L loop length2.25

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References

A.Olsauskiene, R. Milasıus, Integrated Fabric Firmness Factor as a Criterion of Air

Permeability Designing. Proc. 2nd

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Knitted Fabrics, TekstilveKonfeksiyon, , 2, pp.111-115 (1997).

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Vol. 16, No. 2 April / June (2008)

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يتالعربباللغت الملخص

دراست تأثير بعض متغيراث انتاج أقمشه تريكى اللحمه عل خىاصها الطبيعيت والميكانيكيت

عباس محمذ الذرديري 1

، هبه الله عل عبذ العليم2

، إيناس عبذ القادر العقذة2

، كامليا مىس الزين 2

1 اعهذ امى ماط واعاشة

2 (لابظ وغش)لغ الألخصاد اض -وه اباث- ع ؽظة صاع

ف هزا ابحذ ح . الابظ هى أش ها شفع وفاءة اخش ابغ ة اخشىى لب أعخخذاها ف صاعةإ أخخباس ألؼ

ة وىع وشة اخظ وطىي اغشصة ع عه اماػ اخش ولىة الافضاس ووزه فارابائ أرش أخخلاف اخشوب ةدساط

ه عض صشع ،سب،و اخشىن وف و حشوب بائه بزلاد حشاوب ة ع24اهىاء وخحمك هزا اهذف ح غضي

: ة اهىاء وصذ أة ح حغش طىي اغشصة وىع وشة اخظ وبعذ أصشاء أخخباساث عه اماػ ولىة الأفضاس وفاربائ

الأخشىن واشب ه أوزش عىا ة حذ وصذ أ ألؼابائخخف عه اماػ بؾى حىظ بأخخلاف اخشوب -

ولج شة اخظ صاد ة وا لصش طىي اغشصة اغخخذة اىاحذ وصذ أابائو ف اخشوب . اغض صشعةألؼ

.اغه

حذ أظهش الأخشىن أع اخائش با عض اغض ابائحأرشث لىة الافضاس بؾى حىظ باخخلاف اخشوب -

اىاحذ وصذ أ اعخخذا خظ ابى اعخش ضذ بؾى حىظ لىة ابائ خائش اخشوب ةوبماس. صشع ال اخائش

ب لىة الافضاس وطىي اغشصة بع أه وا ل طىي اغشصة صادث لىة الأفضاس ة عىغةالافضاس وا وصذث علاق

.واعىظ صحح

الأخشىن واشب ة بألؼة هىاء هى اغض صشع ماسة فارة اهىاء وصذ أ اوزش الالؼة خائش أخخباس فار-

اىاحذ هى حأرش طشدي بع اه وا صادث شة اخظ ابائ اهىاء ف اخشوب ةوا ا رأرششة اخظ ع فار

. اهىاء وا وصذ أضا اه وا ل طىي اغشصة لج فاره اهىاء بؾى حىظةصادث فار

ة واعىا اخ حخأرش بها هزة الألؼة حشىى احة بعض ألؼةغاعذ هزا ابحذ خض الابظ اضاهضة ف فه طبع

راث ة ا خاة احاسةع عب ازاي ف حاي. خش اهائ ة ااعبةواخ ى اخحى فها ىصىي ا اخا

وف حات اضشوسةإ اعخخذا هىاء أل عىى ااعب اعخخذا ألؾه اشب او الأخشىن ةطاطه أع وفار

. عىى ااعب حم طىي اغشصة و شة اخظ اغض صشعةألؼ