Luxury trends 2014: global/local, social audiences mature, digital = personal, hyper-exclusive products for extreme elites, logo weariness Michael Moszynski: advertise the brand, not the product Purdey, After the Antique: bespoke is fundamental Plus: Fortnum & Mason, Moncler IPO, UK Town & Country, flying caviar

To subscribe:W: www.luxury-briefing.comE: enquiries@fms.co.ukT: +44 (0)1920 444887

All our rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher. The greatest care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of this publication, but the publisher hereby excludes liability for errors and omissions. Opinions expressed in the publication are those of the contributors only and do not necessarily reflect the views of the publisher.

Copyright Luxury Briefing 2014

Subscriptions:Each subscriber will receive 10 issues of the Luxury Briefing magazine per year. (2 double issues – July/August and December/January) Subscription prices: 1-5 subscribers £425.00 (each) per annual subscription 6-10 subscribers £382.50 (each) per annual subscription 11-15 subscribers £361.25 (each) per annual subscription 16-20 subscribers £340.00 (each) per annual subscription 20 subscribers+ £318.75 (each) per annual subscription Sign up now for two years and receive a further 10% discount on the above rates. Subscription rates can be provided in any currency upon request. Copies are dispatched globally at no extra cost.

required reading

luxury briefing.

Issue 168 February 2014

LB168 Cover section.indd 2-3 14/02/2014 09:48

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fEATurES

rEporTS

rEguLArS

17 After the Antique9 Agent Provocateur18 Alexander Olch18 Athleta18 Aurelie Bidermann18 Balenciaga8 Barbour22 Blue Nile6 Bowers & Wilkins18 Brompton Road19 Brunello Cucinelli19, 22 Burberry10 Café Royal Hotel19 Cartier18 Carven19 Chanel18 Christian Dior18 Christopher Kane7, 18 Coach18 Conduit Street18 Covent Garden18 Crown Estate19 David Brown Automotive18 Dennis Basso6 Dewars7 Dom Reilly18 Dover Street18 Doyle & Doyle9,18 DSquared215 Dusit18 Ehvonnae16 Emirates7, 19 Ermenegildo Zegna7 Evan Yurman22 Ferragamo16 Fly Victor11 Forbes6 Fortnum & Mason18 Franck Namani6 Giorgio Armani18 Givenchy6 Gresso18 Grosvenor19 Gucci18 Gurhan Atelier8 Harvey Nichols11 Hearst10 Hedi Slimane19 Hoss Intropia16 Hunton Powerboats18 Intermix18 Intimacy18 Issey Miyake7 IWC Schaffhausen2 James Purdey & Sons14 Joël Robuchon18 John Richmond9 Joseph18 JW Anderson18 Karen Willis Holmes10 Karl Lagerfeld10 Katie Walker9 Kilgour18 Knightsbridge Estate15 Lanes of London14 Le Grand Bellevue Gstaad8 Les Enfantines19 Longchamp19 Louis Vuitton14 Lux Belle Mare7 LVMH

11 Makerbot6 Maserati10 Masterpiece London 8 Max Mara19 Michael Kors9 Moncler18 Nars9 Nathalie Trad18 Natuzzi Americas18 Nike18 Noma Boutique16 P&O Cruises15 Petrossian19 Porsche18, 19, 22 Prada18 Reinstein Ross14 Rex Restaurants11, 22 Richemont18 Rituals11 Riverhead Books19 Rolex19 Rolls Royce19 Rosa Clara15 Rosewood18 Rough Trade18 Royal Exchange19 Sandro18 Sass & Bide10 Seamus Fairtlough11 Soho House19 Stella McCartney18 Stillfried Wien15 Sunborn16 Sunseeker Yachts6 Swarovski14 The Beaumont8 Thierry Mugler11, 19, 22 Tiffany & Co11 Tihany19 Tous6, 18 Valentino8 Versace18 Victoria Beckham8, 18 Vionnet16 Virgin Trains19 Volkswagen14 Waldorf Astoria15 W Hotels18 William & Son19 Yves Delorme19 Zadig & Voltaire15 Zetter18 Zimmermann

Brand index

Issue 168 February 2014

Contents

Luxury Goods

Fashion & Accessories

Interiors & Design

Media & Publishing

Luxury Services

Travel & Aviation

Luxury Indicator: the resilient US jewellery market

London, New York & Barcelona luxury retail property news

Autoluxe

Luxury law: Hugh Devlin

Wealth Report: Ledbury Research

Alternative view: Michael Moszynski

Financial report: the TAG luxury stock index

Brand matters: Georgia Fendley

Luxurious Allsorts: Nick Foulkes

Q&A: Rosanne Karmes

What is your favourite... shop? Bergdorf Goodman in New York. The store is impeccable, from the fashion to the food. Not one detail has been overlooked. ...restaurant? La Scala in Beverly Hills, California. I have been going there my whole life and it never disappoints. They invented the chop salad and it’s still the best in the business. ...hotel? The Athenaeum in London. It has great service and is in the middle of great museums, shops, theatre and Buckingham Palace, of course! ...item of clothing? I’m a true California girl and love a great pair of jeans. ...fragrance? Au Thé Vert by Bulgari.

Where have you received the best customer service?Undoubtedly Harrods. Given the size of the store and the range of product on offer, I’m always amazed at how it still manages to give every customer such a personal experience.

What do you dislike?Anyone who isn’t humble. That’s the most important thing I learned from my mother.

Who or what has been your biggest influence?My beautiful and elegant French mother.

Beauty or function?Function, but if you can make function beautiful, that’s the ultimate.

What do you do to relax?I love a long, quiet, fragrant bath – it’s immediately calming.

What is your ideal watch? Rose gold Cartier Ballon Bleu.

Which luxury company currently has the best ads?The new Saint Laurent – it’s hard to introduce change, but they have pulled it off brilliantly.

Do you collect anything, or would you like to? I collect watches. New and vintage.

What is your most treasured possession?My children, Sydney and Evan.

What was your most recent luxury purchase?A navy blue Porsche 911S4.

What item(s) are you currently dreaming of buying?A beautiful blue sapphire, around which to design a ring for myself.

What do you predict will be the biggest trends this century?Technology products: they have changed our world completely, for good and bad...

q& A

rosanne Karmes

Founder & designer, Sydney Evan Jewels

Shooting star Now part of the Richemont Group, James Purdey & Sons, royal gun and rifle maker, is 200 years old this year and moving forwards with a rebuilt factory, a collection of high-performance country clothing and new markets. In a modern world, the traditional values of a high-ticket luxury business remain a powerful driving force, as Richard Purdey, great great great-grandson of the founder, tells LB

Luxury trends 2014 Worldwide luxury goods enjoyed double-digit annual growth in 2013, with the industry now topping €200bn. However, there are a number of key challenges and trends that luxury brands will need to keep abreast of in order to push on in the coming year. SIMON MCEVOY analyses a few of the main ones to watch

The stone ranger Stephen Parker’s business, After the Antique, creates immaculate replicas of western-classical fireplaces, fountains and garden statuary – often using skilled stone and marble masons in China

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Luxury Briefing Issue 168

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Industry reports

travel & Aviationin more natural light reaching the lower deck cabins. Sean robertson, sales director at Sunseeker, said, “We’ve built getting on for 60 hulls of the 73 so far. We’ve had a lot of feedback, have taken on all the comments and requests and tried to accommodate them in the new 75 yacht.” the london Boat Show also played to host to four-time olympic champion Sir Ben Ainslie and his infamous catamaran.

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Emirates daily A380 service to Switzerland in response to growing demand for its existing daily Boeing 777 flight, dubai-based airline Emirates has announced a second daily A380 service from dubai to Zurich, Switzerland – the 25th destination that Emirates will serve with its flagship double-decker jet. “Since commencing operations between dubai and Zurich in August 1992, Emirates has carried 3.4 million passengers travelling between the two cities,” said thierry Aucoc, senior vice president commercial operations for Europe and russian Federation. “deploying the A380, which allows us to bring 163 more passengers every day into Zurich – a 21.8% increase – is central to helping us meet growing passenger demand in the market.” Emirates has been operating the jumbo Airbus A380 for just over five years and has carried 21.8m passengers to global destinations. the airline, whose fleet currently includes 44 of the jumbo jets with 96 on order, is the world’s largest operator of A380s. this month Emirates will also start operating scheduled A380 services from dubai to Barcelona.

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P&O Cruises updated website P&o Cruises has once again upgraded its multi-award winning website for 2014, with the help of digital consultancy firm Nucleus. Changes to the website are designed to improve user experience, especially for tablet users who now account for 26% of all traffic. in fact, tablet bookings on the UK’s most popular cruise website are up 700% on the previous year. in addition to the more user friendly home and product pages, the ‘Ships overview’ pages now feature large format image carousels that focus on one aspect of life on-board, be it dining, entertainment, shopping, places to socialise, unwind or be active. Claire hazle, head of digital for P&o Cruises, commented, “We are seeing such a sharp growth in mobile access to our website that this absolutely has to be a priority for us now and into 2014. We know that our passengers enjoy researching their P&o Cruises holidays using a wide variety of resources including our brochure, our website

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Fly Victor pop-up flying UK-based Fly Victor, an online marketplace for private jet charters and vacant seat buying, has announced its new pop-up flying scheme. designed to reduce the time and hassle of travel for both business and leisure passengers, Victor’s pop-up flying scheme is opening the doors to several of the world’s leading events and locations. Clive Jackson, the company’s founder, told luxury Briefing, “our members not only fly more comfortably and with less stress than commercial passengers, they fly closer to their destination, often at very short notice, without having to divert from the fastest route or spend the night in a hotel.” Some of the events being covered by the scheme include the tEFAF art fair in Maastricht from March 14-23, and the lamborghini Super trofeo race series, held at a selection of the world’s most famous racing circuits. Victor has also been confirmed as the private aircraft partner for the 2014 ryder Cup in Gleneagles, September 23-28.

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Sunseeker Yachts with James Corden Actor and television presenter James Corden was on hand to launch the Sunseeker 75 yacht at the london Boat Show at the ExCel arena in January. Stewart Mcintyre, Sunseeker Md, said: “this is Europe’s first boat show of 2014 and we can’t think of a better way of starting the year than debut this eagerly anticipated yacht and showcase some of our latest models.” An evolution of the Manhattan 73, the 75 yacht, in standard configuration, offers four cabins – a midships master, two further double cabins and a fourth twin cabin with side-by-side beds. An updated hull window design also results

and other materials that they receive from us or their travel agent. in the same way that they can gain inspiration from their printed brochures anytime, anywhere, they should be able to go online whenever they like through any device they choose and immerse themselves in the P&o Cruises experience.”

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Hunton Powerboats new superyacht tender UK-based high-performance luxury powerboat manufacturer hunton has announced the arrival of its new 1005 superyacht tender. the 1005 has a top speed of 65 knots, a range of 250 nautical miles, outboard or inboard engines and an optional heads console complete with hot shower, mirrors and lighting. “this latest 1005 is probably the most advanced tender we have built, with extensive customisation. it is a truly amazing boat, combining raw performance and innovative design together with comfort and practicality that make it the perfect tender for the owner’s newly built superyacht,” said Fiona Pool, CEo of hunton. the 1005 joins hunton’s flagship XrS43 powerboat, a vessel known by some as the ‘Aston Martin of the sea’. With a range of over 275nm and a top speed of up to 70 knots, the XrS43 features a combination of charcoal grey hull and deck and tan upholstery. Both vessels were on display at the recent dusseldorf Boat Show. hunton has plans to launch another new model, the EQ52, later in the year.

First class VirginVirgin Trains’s first class passengers will be able to enjoy a fully refurbished lounge at London’s Euston station from March. The facility is undergoing a seven-week renovation which will include a new interior, more seats, improved wifi connectivity, a greater range of food and drinks and a new business area. During the works, Virgin is offering its first class customers food vouchers to use at selected outlets at Euston station. Spokesman Richard Shotton said, “We will do everything we can to minimise the inconvenience to our customers when the first class lounge is closed for upgrade works. In March, they will see a refurbished lounge with new interiors and more seats and I am sure they will appreciate the improvements.”

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Luxury trends 2014: global/local, social audiences mature, digital = personal, hyper-exclusive products for extreme elites, logo weariness Michael Moszynski: advertise the brand, not the product Purdey, After the Antique: bespoke is fundamental Plus: Fortnum & Mason, Moncler IPO, UK Town & Country, flying caviar

To subscribe:W: www.luxury-briefing.comE: enquiries@fms.co.ukT: +44 (0)1920 444887

All our rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher. The greatest care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of this publication, but the publisher hereby excludes liability for errors and omissions. Opinions expressed in the publication are those of the contributors only and do not necessarily reflect the views of the publisher.

Copyright Luxury Briefing 2014

Subscriptions:Each subscriber will receive 10 issues of the Luxury Briefing magazine per year. (2 double issues – July/August and December/January) Subscription prices: 1-5 subscribers £425.00 (each) per annual subscription 6-10 subscribers £382.50 (each) per annual subscription 11-15 subscribers £361.25 (each) per annual subscription 16-20 subscribers £340.00 (each) per annual subscription 20 subscribers+ £318.75 (each) per annual subscription Sign up now for two years and receive a further 10% discount on the above rates. Subscription rates can be provided in any currency upon request. Copies are dispatched globally at no extra cost.

required reading

luxury briefing.

Issue 168 February 2014

LB168 Cover section.indd 2-3 14/02/2014 09:48