Jacquard Fabric on Circular Jacquard Fabric on Circular Knitting machineKnitting machine

Part 4: More Double Jersey Part 4: More Double Jersey Jacquard FabricsJacquard Fabrics

Jimmy LamJimmy Lam

Institute of Textiles & ClothingInstitute of Textiles & Clothing

Learning ObjectivesLearning Objectives

More unconventional double jersey jacquard fabricMore unconventional double jersey jacquard fabric French RibFrench Rib Blister FabricBlister Fabric Jacquard BackingJacquard Backing

French RibFrench Rib Similar to imitation lace fabric Two fabric tubes are linked together to form a unique

fabric This method is to insert a fine yarn to tuck on the

selected cylinder and dial needles at suitable interval. Normally, the finished commercial fabric looks

different on two side. One appears on fine gauge, and the other appears in

coarse gauge.

French RibFrench Rib

Fabric looks different on both side becauseone side usescoarse yarn, the otheruses normal yarn.

Blister FabricBlister Fabric Two types: Single blister and double blisterTwo types: Single blister and double blister Blister fabric is well known for raised pattern Blister fabric is well known for raised pattern

effect on fabric surface.effect on fabric surface. It is similar to rib jacquard except with knit and It is similar to rib jacquard except with knit and

miss course.miss course. The structure is normally on fine gauge, 20-24 The structure is normally on fine gauge, 20-24

npi with polyester yarn for suiting fabrics.npi with polyester yarn for suiting fabrics.

Single BlisterSingle Blister

There are more courses knitted on face side There are more courses knitted on face side (cylinder) than the back side (dial) of the fabric.(cylinder) than the back side (dial) of the fabric.

The fabric shrinks and the single knit portion is The fabric shrinks and the single knit portion is raised up on the fabric surface, and the rib areas raised up on the fabric surface, and the rib areas remain flat as the ground of the pattern.remain flat as the ground of the pattern.

Double BlisterDouble Blister

It takes 6 feeders for one structureIt takes 6 feeders for one structure If the ratio between the face courses and the If the ratio between the face courses and the

back courses for single blister is 2:1, than the back courses for single blister is 2:1, than the ratio for double blister is 3:1.ratio for double blister is 3:1.

It is obviously double blister will show more It is obviously double blister will show more raised effect of pattern than single blister.raised effect of pattern than single blister.

Blister FabricBlister Fabriccylinder and dial arrangementcylinder and dial arrangement

Double BlisterDouble Blister

It takes three knitting course to make one course on the It takes three knitting course to make one course on the pattern for double blister.pattern for double blister.

Therefore, an 8 course per repeat double blister will need Therefore, an 8 course per repeat double blister will need 24 courses to produce.24 courses to produce.

The characteristics of double blister is the raised effect, The characteristics of double blister is the raised effect, which are created by knitting a particular colour yarn in which are created by knitting a particular colour yarn in single knit (knit and miss format), while the other in double single knit (knit and miss format), while the other in double jersey format.jersey format.

As a result, the single jersey portion of the fabric will be As a result, the single jersey portion of the fabric will be raised up on the fabric surface.raised up on the fabric surface.

8-course Double Blister8-course Double Blister

Motif8-course design

Pattern Graph24-course

Knitting sequence :2 courses in single knit (A)1 course in double knit (B)

8-course double blister8-course double blister

Knitting detailsColor A in double course, single knitColor B in double knit with birdeye’s backing

Jacquard BackingJacquard Backing

All jacquard patterns are developed on cylinder All jacquard patterns are developed on cylinder needles, the back of fabric is knitted by dial by needles, the back of fabric is knitted by dial by varies backing technique.varies backing technique.

In dial needles, there are L (long) and S (short) In dial needles, there are L (long) and S (short) needles and the possible selections are shown on needles and the possible selections are shown on the table.the table.

Horizontal BackingHorizontal Backing

On a rib jacquard fabric, when all dial needles are knitting On a rib jacquard fabric, when all dial needles are knitting on all feeders, the fabric will produce horizontal stripe and on all feeders, the fabric will produce horizontal stripe and is known as horizontal backingis known as horizontal backing

horizontal stripe/backing is normally used for up to 4 horizontal stripe/backing is normally used for up to 4 colours.colours.

2-colour, 3-color and 4-color, please refer to diagram2-colour, 3-color and 4-color, please refer to diagram The surface loop size is stretched proportional to the number The surface loop size is stretched proportional to the number

of colours in the pattern.of colours in the pattern. Eg. Two colours pattern, the course ratio between the Eg. Two colours pattern, the course ratio between the

surface and the back is 1:2; and for 3-color is 1:3 etc.surface and the back is 1:2; and for 3-color is 1:3 etc.

2-Color Horizontal Backing2-Color Horizontal Backing

Technical Face Technical Back

4-Color Horizontal Backing4-Color Horizontal BackingFace Back

The fabric composes ofone blue andone white colourNo float yarnat the back

Horizontal BackingHorizontal Backing

Ratio between the face loop and the back loop

Disadvantages of horizontal backingDisadvantages of horizontal backing Colour yarn at the back cannot be covered Colour yarn at the back cannot be covered

properly and show off between the surface properly and show off between the surface loops.loops.

Result is poor resolution of colour pattern.Result is poor resolution of colour pattern. Horizontal backing are unbalanced fabric.Horizontal backing are unbalanced fabric. They will curl when cut and fabric setting is They will curl when cut and fabric setting is

needed in after treatment.needed in after treatment.

Advantages of horizontal backingAdvantages of horizontal backing

Produce the largest pattern size on fabricProduce the largest pattern size on fabric Lightest fabric weight when compare with other Lightest fabric weight when compare with other

backing methods, therefore, coarse gauge jacquard backing methods, therefore, coarse gauge jacquard double jersey always prefer horizontal backing.double jersey always prefer horizontal backing.

Horizontal backing is used on 12 gauge and below and Horizontal backing is used on 12 gauge and below and especially on V-bed 5 to 12 gaugeespecially on V-bed 5 to 12 gauge

Circular machine with gauge of E16 or above seldom Circular machine with gauge of E16 or above seldom uses horizontal backing because of poor dimensional uses horizontal backing because of poor dimensional stability.stability.

Birdeye’s backingBirdeye’s backing

To knit bird’s eye backing, the machine must be To knit bird’s eye backing, the machine must be able to select one of the two dial needles to knit and able to select one of the two dial needles to knit and miss on each feeder according to backing rule.miss on each feeder according to backing rule.

2-colour, 3-colour, 4-colour backing, please refer to 2-colour, 3-colour, 4-colour backing, please refer to diagram.diagram.

Birdeye’s backing RuleBirdeye’s backing Rule

2-colour Birdeye’s backing2-colour Birdeye’s backing

Face Back

Honeycomb appears at theback

Effect of birdeye’s backingEffect of birdeye’s backing