jagas diy paver laying guide · and doing things right. be patient, take your time and don’t cut...

0800 45 24 27 • www.jagas.co.nz • [email protected]: 65 Cryers Road, East Tamaki, Auckland • © Jagas Ltd. 2019

WELCOME TO THE JAGAS PAVER LAYING GUIDEPaved patios and paths add a stylish, yet practical element to your property. They add value to your home, as well as giving you greater use of your outdoor areas. But like anything DIY, your success lies in the preparation and doing things right. Be patient, take your time and don’t cut corners, and you will be rewarded with a beautiful outdoor space that lasts for years.

NOTE: Please read this guide in its entirety before starting your project. It will help you avoid costly mistakes and ensure you get a better end result.

STAGE 1 - PRE-PREP Paving

1. Before you go anywhere near your tools, you need to measure your area and make a rough drawing of your desired plan.

2. From this, you can work out the square metres of paving required and then go on to choose a paver size, colour and type (NOTE: If you are measuring a square or rectangle area, multiply length times width: Length x Width = Area. For other shapes, you will find some useful square metre calculators online).

3. Between your pavers we recommend a 5-7mm gap for grouting. A gap any larger than this will cause problems with the grout cracking over time. Remember to factor this gap into your calculations, as it adds up over a large area.

4. Once you have decided on your area size you can then work out the number of pavers required and have them delivered to your site.

TIP : It pays to add 5% extra to your paving order to allow for breakages and mistakes.

WHAT YOU NEED:TOOLS

• Shovel/Digger

• Rubber mallet

• String line and stakes

• Spirit level

• Trowel

• Measuring tape

• Rake + Straigh edge/Screed

• Empty 20L bucket and hand brush

• Wheel barrow and concrete mixer

• Straight edge/screed

• Paving saw to cut pavers

• 5-7mm paving wedges

• Plate compactor

• Wet sponge (for cleaning off spots of concrete or mortar from pavers)

MATERIALS

• Washed sand (it’s important to use this, so there is no salt in the sand that will migrate into your paving and cause efflorescence staining)

• PAP7 (7mm down aggregate)

• Cement

• Water

• Landscape fabric - Geo Textile cloth (to place between GAP20 and sub-base)

• Cemkey by Cemix

• GAP20 (20mm down aggregate). Or Jagas can supply you our Romex premixed permeable bedding

• Mapei grout

• Builders mix + cement (for concrete haunching)

• Elbow grease

JAGAS DIY PAVER LAYING GUIDE


STAGE 2 - MATERIALSOrdering Base Materials

You’re now going to need to order your base materials: GAP20 (Base Course), Builders Mix (Haunching), PAP7 (Fines/Bedding Layer), Cement, Cemkey and Washed Sand (Mortar), and your Grout.

When calculating your allowance for materials we recommend these depths for each of the following:

• 100mm of GAP20 Base Course (trafficable areas will need more. Come and talk to us).

• 30mm of PAP7 Fines

• 30mm mortar (4:1 sand:cement)

TIP: You can do volume calculations by multiplying your (surface area in m2) x (Depth in m) = Approximate Volume required in m3. Take this figure to your local materials supplier and they will help you get the right amount of all materials for your job.

STAGE 3 - GROUNDWORK 1. MARK THE LAYOUT

• Measure out your footprint (allowing 5-7mm for grout gaps between pavers) and check that all dimensions fit.

• Use stakes and string lines to mark out the area, using the line to set the finished fall height away from the wall (Fall: 25mm every 1000mm).

• Make sure your string lines are level (you can buy hanging spirit levels).

TIP: It helps to ‘dry lay’ a few pavers before you start digging, so you can decide on your laying pattern. Check out our post on laying patterns for more info>[Link]

2. GET DIGGING!

First, calculate your dig depths.

Level below house = finished level. This must be at least 150mm below internal floor height (when determining height work from house outwards, as you will be calculating fall).

• Paver Thickness = X mm (measure your paver thickness)

• Mortar = 30 mm

• Fines (PAP7) = 30mm

• Base Course (GAP20 or larger) = 100mm

• Fall = 25mm every 1000mm (25:1000)

As you dig, check your depths using a tape against your string line and make sure you have removed all topsoil. Allow an extra 100mm trench around the outside for concrete haunching (haunching is the walls that border your paving to keep it locked in tight).

1.5m

10m

6m

3m

2m

20m

40mm Paving30mm Mortar30mm PAP7

100mm GAP20

Geotextilecloth

Sub base (clay/rock)

Spot bonding

Bad

Full mortar coverage

Good

Screed rail embeddedin PAP7

Screed

PAP7

GAP20

Soil/Sub base

Basketweave Herringbone Strtetcher Bond

1.5m

10m

6m

3m

2m

20m


100mm GAP20

Geotextilecloth


Spot bonding

Bad


Good


Screed

PAP7

GAP20

Soil/Sub base



3. BASE COURSE

For this step, rent a plate compactor to get a good solid compaction (200kg +). NOTE: A roller works best for trafficked areas.

• If you have a silty or clay-based substrate, install a geotextile cloth over it to separate the base course from the substrate. This will extend the life of your paving.

• Fill with GAP20 to 100mm and rake this out. Fill in layers of 50mm then compact, as this will give you a more solid base.

• Lightly wet the base while compacting to make the Base Course more solid.

• Use your screed to make sure the surface is flat and there are no ‘hills and valleys’ in it.

NOTE: Don’t cut corners here. A paver placed on a flat concrete path or driveway WILL NOT rock when stood on. A paver on your compacted Base Course should be the same.

4. BEDDING LAYER

NOTE: During this stage, if you are doing it in sections always leave 1000mm overhang from compacted areas.

• Fill with PAP7, rake out and smooth using your screed. Wet and compact to end up with 20-30mm compacted PAP7.

• This should leave room for your 30 mm of mortar and the paver thickness to reach your finished height.

TIP: Setting up screed rails is a great way to do this. Get 30mm-thick box tube or pipe and lay it in the PAP7. You can then run your screed along it to make sure you get an even layer.

TIP: Set up screed rails as shown above.

STAGE 4 - MORTAR AND LAYING You’re now ready to lay your pavers.

• Mix up your mortar at a ratio of 4:1 Washed Sand to Cement. Mix this to the consistency of toothpaste (you don’t want it to be too runny). Optional: Add some Cemkey.

• Lay dollops of mortar on PAP7 in the area of one tile, allowing a bit of thickness to squash down to the required 30mm. . NOTE: You want to have 100% full coverage of mortar on the back of the paver, as spot bonding will cause hollow-sounding points when you walk on your paving. Full coverage of mortar also waterproofs the back of the paver – if the paver is not fully covered, the pattern your mortar makes on the back of the paver will show on the front.

• Using a paint brush, butter the back of the paver with a slurry mix of water, cement and Cemkey (mixed to vegetable soup consistency). This will help the paver bond to the mortar.

1.5m

10m

6m

3m

2m

20m


100mm GAP20

Geotextilecloth


Spot bonding

Bad


Good


Screed

PAP7

GAP20

Soil/Sub base


1.5m

10m

6m

3m

2m

20m


100mm GAP20

Geotextilecloth


Spot bonding

Bad


Good


Screed

PAP7

GAP20

Soil/Sub base



• Place paver on mortar bed and tap down with a rubber mallet. TIP: Make sure you take pavers from different pallets to blend them together.

• Use paving wedges to get even spacing between pavers.

• Keep your wet sponge handy to wipe spots of mortar off the pavers.

Spacing Note: We recommend you don’t have gaps over 7mm, as you will have trouble with grout cracking over time.

Do the full pavers first, then do your cuts. If you find a difficult area that requires cutting, try thinking outside the box before you do, as you might be able to use gravel to surround the obstacle or make it a feature.

STAGE 5 - GROUTING

Make sure you have allowed a couple of days for your paving to set before you begin grouting. Follow the instructions on your specific grout product.

STAGE 6 - FINISHING

After you have finished grouting up your paving and it has had time to set, you may now acid wash and seal your pavers. This process will clean the pavers of any excess grout and markings, ready for you to put the protective coat of sealer on.

NOTE: This is a job we recommend getting a professional to do, as different paving responds to acid differently. Therefore, a different acid mix ratio will be required. If in doubt, please ask us.

NOTE: We recommend all concrete and stone paving is sealed, as these products are porous and will absorb any staining into their structure making it very difficult to clean. Sealer will protect against this staining and extend the life of your paving significantly.

Congratulations – you’re all done! Pour yourself a nice cold drink and congratulate yourself on your handywork.

Cheers,

The Jagas Team

Disclaimer: The information provided in this document is designed to provide useful information on the subject discussed and is a guide only. While the advice and recommendations contained in this guide have been produced with care, they are offered only with the objective of assisting those interested in paving projects. Jagas Paving Limited does not accept responsibility for the advice or recommendations contained herein. Nor is Jagas Paving Limited responsible for the quality of work carried out with the goods by the consumer and is not responsible for the design or construction of any structure in which the goods are incorporated. Where applicable consumers should ensure they comply with The New Zealand Building Code and/or Local Body Bylaws in respect of any such structures. Jagas Paving Limited will not be liable for any consequential loss howsoever arising from the use of goods sold, nor for any loss caused by defective or inadequate structures in which goods are incorporated. January 2019.

1.5m

10m

6m

3m

2m

20m


100mm GAP20

Geotextilecloth


Spot bonding

Bad


Good


Screed

PAP7

GAP20

Soil/Sub base


jagas diy paver laying guide · and doing things right. be patient, take your time and don’t cut...

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