jamaicaneats july 2015 · 2020. 8. 13. · 12 jamaicaneats magazine | issue 1, 2015 |...
TRANSCRIPT
JamaicanEatsBringing a taste of the Caribbean to the world
Build,Grill ChillCrazy-deliciousSandwichesCaribbean style
RevealedSecret to makingHardough Bread
Jerk tips &tricks p. 12
2 Feeling (Chef) IrieChef Selwyn heats up Toronto
Star ChefsGrilled Cheese Jalapeno Salsa Sandwich p. 34
ISSUE 1, JULY 2015U.S. $12.99
12 JamaicanEats magazine | Issue 1, 2015 | jamaicaneats.com
Jerk porkUsain Bolt’s appearance on U.K. celebrity chef JamieOliver’s televison show earlier this year got us thinkingabout jerk pork and dumplings.The world’s fastest man bragged about his
Aunt Lilly’s jerk pork and dumplings, calling it hisfavourite dish. Oliver duly featured the recipeon his show and web site.We didn’t get Bolt’s Aunt Lilly’s jerk pork and
dumpling recipes, but we went one step betterand got mouthwatering recipes from star chefslike Selwyn Richards, Toronto, who recently published The Art of Cooking and Bloomingdale’s,Miami, chef Sian Rose who published her firstbook Nyammings earlier this year. (Get herrecipe on page 14)
Two of our readers also weighed in with to-die-for recipes and tips. Anna Murphy and Jillian Bent say they get rave reviews each timethey serve up their jerk pork dish. Grab theirrecipes on pages 14 and 15. We also found an old-time Portland (Jamaica)
recipe that used pig’s blood to ramp up theflavour. (Recipe below)Plus, steal tips for great jerk from CorporateChef Sean Lucas and caterer and culinary instructor Helena Kopelow. Serve up with dumplings the way Usain likes it.
tipsCorporate Executive ChefSean LucasBefore seasoning themeat, clean with whitevinegar and lime orlemon juice. nDry rub with garlicand onion powders.nThen wet rub withfresh garlic, thyme,fresh onion and jerkseasoning. nMarinate in thespices and herbs for aminimum of 24 hoursfor a complete flavoursaturation.
Chef/Instructor Helena KopelowShake up your flavours byadding “real” mayonnaiseto wet jerk sauce, says thisVancouver-based chef.nRub 4 lbs. of roast withall-purpose seasoning. nMix 1 cup mayonnaisewith 2-3 tablespoons wetjerk sauce.nRub on the pork andthen barbecue.
Chef Helena also took ourhardough bread bakingchallenge. Find out howshe did on page 27
Insider tips and tricks for juicy jerk
Portland Jerk Pork1 side lean pork1 lb. fine salt1 tsp. salt petre*6 red hot peppers1 tsp. pimento grains1 tsp. cinnamon2 onionsEscallion1/2 pint (1 cup) pig’s blood
1. Scald* pork, remove bones.2. Grind all other ingredients in amortar, mix with blood.3. Place rack made of green sticks
over fire. Lay pimento leaves onrack. Put pork on rack. Cover firstwith pimento leaves then a slab ofboard to keep the meat spread asflat as possible.4. Leave to roast, turning at inter-vals until well done.
* Scald the pork by immersing it hotwater for 3-5 minutes
Grated CornDumpling1 lb. freshly grated corn1/2 lb. flour
3-4 ozs. beef suet2 tsps. saltMilk or water to mix
1. Remove corn trash and silksand grate corn on a sharp, finegrater. Sift.2. Add flour and salt and sift again.Add shredded suet.3. Pour in milk or water and mixto a mellow dough.4. Shape and place in boiling water.5. Cook for 30 minutes.Note: If corn is dry, soak in boil-ing water overnight.
Salt petre: Sodium or potassium nitrate was used to cure pork legs to make ham. It mightbe available online or in some pharmacies. Substitute: Sea salt, ascorbic acid or Vitamin C in crystal form. OH, the story that this chemical was put in the food of soldiers to decrease their sexdrive is apparently a myth.
Old-time Portland Jerk Pork and Grated Corn dumplingFrom the 1958 cookbook Favourite West Indian Recipes that featured recipes from culinarystudents in the Caribbean. It was produced so “students from the various territories mightbecome more familiar with the recipes of their sister territories,” says the introduction.
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2 lbs. pork loin or pork chops(½ lb. per person)3 tbsps. jerk seasoning2 tbsps. tomato ketchup1 tsp. chopped garlic1 tsp. chopped thyme1 tsp. salt1 tsp. black pepper2 tbsps. soy sauce3 tbsps vegetable oil1 tsp. sugar
Jar of tamarind chutney1. Combine all ingredients togetherin a bowl, mix well and let marinatein fridge from 4 to 24 hours.2. Cook pork in oven at 375ºF for30 minutes, turning once.3. Pork can also be cooked on thegrill with medium heat, turning often.
Serve pork with Tamarind Chutney.Recipe from The Art of Cooking
BBQ Pork with Jerk Marinade and Tamarind Chutney
Marinating isthe key for great jerkpork and jerk chicken.The longer the marinat-ing time, the deeper theflavour of jerk.
Get Chef Selwyn’srecipe below
Chef SelwynRichards
Flip to page 41 for more on Chef Selwyn; Get his curry tofu;jerk chicken; Ackee & Smoked Salmon Val-Au-Vent recipes
“
Contributed photos
4 ozs. spicy sauce1 oz. tamarind concentrate1 oz. cilantro, finelychopped1 Scotch bonnet pepper,de-seeded, chopped finely1 oz. ginger, peeled andchopped finely1 head roasted garlic,mashed 1 orange for zest and juice8 ozs. sweet and soursauce
4 ozs. oyster sauce 2 ozs. red rum4 ozs. Hoisin sauce1 oz. black sesame seeds
Combine all ingredients in aglass or stainless steel bowland allow flavours to meld. Makes 10 2-oz. servings.Serve as dip for jerk dishes.
Recipe by Bill Moore, Push CartFoods
Tamarind Dipping Sauce
BreadMagic happens when you introduce flour and yeast to water, mix them
in a bowl to form a velvety-smooth ball of dough, let it rise and then bake.
Parmesan herb crostinisPhotographed by Jackie Fraser-Dunfield
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Knead it, Roll it, Pinch it
Whichever way you slice it, bread is someone’s history, culture, story
The Bible practically commands its followers to eat it (Give us this day our dailybread); the French revolution was sparked, in part, because of it; and biting into a
freshly baked slice remains one of life’s most basic pleasures.
It’s as old as the hills, and from crowedcities to vast, open plains, bread seems toset the rhythm of life. The spirit of a place can be condensedto one tangible, edible object: bread, saysU.S. journalist Susan Seligson whosebook, Going With the Grain: A WanderingBread Lover Takes a Bite Out of Life, ex-plores how bread reflects cultures, beliefsand rituals around the world. “Bread is a measure for humanity. The
same ingredients go in (wheat, yeast andwater), but something different tends tocome out depending on where you wereraised,” says Marlette Sluyter, creatorand writer of a recently released National Film Board of Canada docu-mentary titled Bread. Jamaican Master Baker Winston Piper,backs up this point. “Bread seems tohave a way of defining who we are as apeople. Once there is a gathering, thereis always bread being broken and servedat some point. The way bread is bakedand eaten and the food with which it is
paired define cultures.”Piper, who has broken bread in islands
across the Caribbean, points to theJamaican hardough bread — the mixingof the dough into “a tight mass until thetexture becomes soft and pliable” inorder to get the dense chewy texture —as an example. “To me, hardough represents all the
difficulties and challenges we have gonethrough as a people.” In addition to being the staff of life,bread creates employment, generatesbusiness, calls for associations and, moreimportantly, provides for good health, hecontinues.Believed to be one of the oldest man-
made foods, bread comes in all shapes,forms and flavours and is typically madefrom grains and starches that are accessi-ble and affordable to the society thatgives rise to it. Like other parts of the world, bread in
the Caribbean is usually prepared from adough of flour, yeast and water and is
often baked but can also be “cooked” ona hot surface. From roti in Trinidad toPuerto Rico’s Pan Sobao and Pan deAgua and bread made from cassava inthe Eastern Caribbean, bread gives aglimpse into the culture of the various islands.Flip
throughthesepagesfor awhiff ofsomebreadsfrom afew of the islands — Barbados, Haiti, Jamaica, Puerto Rico and Trinidad. Getthe scoop on what bread means for Haitian street vendors known as Timachan and how it unites Puerto Ricansover a good gossip session. Plus, a Jamaican living in Montserrat tells howshe is longing for a slice of hardoughbread.
No matter what you bring to party – fine wine, roast beef, roast turkey – people seemto get more pleasure from the simplicity of a lovingly-made loaf of homemade bread.
- Chef Helena Kopelow
Men
u Trinidad: Roti and Bakes p. 23 | Jamaica: Hardough and Coco bread p. 26 and 29 Haiti: Breadfruit Fritters p. 28 |Barbados: Salt Bread p. 29 |Puerto Rico: Pan Sobaoand Pan de Agua p. 29
“To me, hardough bread represents all the diffi-culties and challengeswe have gone through asa people.”- Winston Piper
LAST BITE
1/4 cup evaporated milk 3 ozs. finely chopped bitter-sweet chocolate 2 tbsps. butter, softened 8 slices bread 4 tbsps. semi-sweet chocolatechips
1. Heat milk just until boiling. Addbittersweet chocolate and let standfor 1 minute. Whisk until smooth andlet cool down just a bit. 2. Spread the butter on one side of
each slice of bread. Divide andspread the bittersweet chocolatemixture on the unbuttered side of 4of the bread slices, making sure toleave a border on each side. 3. Press the semi-sweet chocolatechips into the chocolate-coveredbread slices. Cover with the remain-ing slices of bread, keeping the but-tery side up and press lightly. 4. Place the sandwiches in a non-stick skillet or frying pan overmedium-high heat for 2 minutes.
5. Turn over, press with a spatula,and cook until nicely browned andthe chocolate just starts to melt —30 seconds to 1 minute. Serve warm.Makes 4 sandwiches
Note: Add some crunchy with 2 table-spoons chopped and toastedhazelnuts, macadamia nuts or almonds when you add thechocolate chips in step 2.
Grilled Grilled Dark Choclate
SandwichSandwich
It’s not exactly Caribbean, but who doesn’t love chocolate? Three-year-old Trinity, granddaughter of photographer Jackie Fraser-Dunfield, knows a sweetdeal when she sees one and takes a bite. So ditch the guilt and dive into this delicious treat.
Photo by Jackie Fraser-Dunfield