jane wilson global account manager june 2014 · dry shampoo is here to stay from cleansing...

Dry Shampoo Is here to stay

From cleansing application to styling attributes Jane Wilson

Global Account Manager

June 2014

Surface Chemistry/Personal Care/Church & Dwight / Dec 2013

Dry Shampoos have surged in popularity in

recent years*

• In 2008, Dry Shampoos accounted for 1% of launch

activity

• In 2012, Dry Shampoos captured 3% of the category

launches

– 2013 on track to surpass 2012

• Mintel estimates that 23 percent of women (and 13%

of men) currently own a can of dry shampoo

Dry Shampoo is here to stay

Dry Shampoo | BAMA Forum 2013

• Source: Mintel Beauty and

• Personal Care, 2013

3 Surface Chemistry | Personal Care

• European usage is dominated by

the UK with 19 launches in 2012,

followed by Norway, France,

Netherlands and Germany

Number of

Product

Launches*

2008 2012

U.S. 3 25

Europe 2 54

Today’s figures clearly show


*GNPD, Aerosol Only, “Shampoo” Category

Although still a niche

market, dry shampoo

sales are estimated to be

in excess of £70 million

annually


North America Number of Variants

Time/Speed 18

Botanical/Herbal 9

Ethical - Animal 8

Odour Neutralizing 5

Paraben Free 4

Ease of Use 3

On-the-Go 3

Long-Lasting 3

Brightening /

Illuminating 3

Environmentally

friendly 3

Europe Number of Variants

Time/Speed 32

Botanical/Herbal 13

Long-Lasting 6

Environmentally

friendly

6

Ease of use 5

Paraben free 5

Dermatologically

Tested

5

No Animal

Ingredients

4

On-the-Go 4

Vegan 4

Major Label Claims



• Save Time

• Convenience

• Save Water

• Save a Style

• Preserve Color

• Add Volume and Texture

The Benefits of Dry Shampoo



The Tools

• Start with a Starch

• Add Benefits with Functional

Ingredients

Developing Dry Shampoos


Start with a starch for the basic features


• Depending of the choice and level of your starch, add:

– Level of oil absorbency

– Texture

– Body

• Choice of aesthetic properties due to different shapes

• Combine starches to lower the whitening effect



Dry-Flo® PC

• Hydrophobically modified

• Absorb excess oil and provide

‘cleansing’ properties

• Excellent aesthetic modifier

DRY-FLO® TS Starch

• Non-GMO, aluminum-free, modified

tapioca starch

• Polymethylsilsesquioxane creates a

cost effective ingredient that Improves

aesthetics

From our Starch toolbox…



NATRASORB® HFB Starch

• Hydrophobically modified starch

with a high capacity for loading oils

• Ideal cleansing starch

TAPIOCA PURE Starch

• An unmodified native starch which has

application in powder products as well

as aerosols

• Rounded starches: soft feel to the hair




Purity 21C

• An unmodified native starch which has

application in powder products as well

as aerosols

• Rounded starches: soft feel to the hair



Oil adsorbtion data

11 Surface Chemistry | Personal Care Dry Shampoo | BAMA Forum 2013

0.56

0.65

0.66 0.700.72

0.90

0.00

0.20

0.40

0.60

0.80

1.00

PURITY® 21C DRY-FLO® PC TAPIOCA PURE DRY-FLO® TS DRY-FLO® AF NATRASORB® HFB

Av

era

ge

De

ma

nd

Ad

so

rpti

on

(m

l/g

)

Oil Absorption Data

Less whitening with a mix of starches


After applying

After drying (3 min) and brushing (3 times with a comb)



…and create additional benefits with polymers

Add hold, shine and

thermal protection with

DynamX® polymer

• Lot of control

• Flexible film

• Reduces static

Create hold and

volume with

BALANCE® 47 polymer

• Strength in film

• Out of bed acrylic

For volume and texture,

incorporate low levels of

RESYN® polymers

• Body

• Strength in film

• Crunchy feel



Formulation Example + variations


Reviving Dry Shampoo 2431-48


Trade Name, Supplier INCI Name % w/w

Concentrate

DRY-FLO® TS Starch,

AkzoNobel Personal Care

Tapioca Starch (and)

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

4.50%

TAPIOCA PURE Starch,


Tapioca Starch 1.00%

SD Alcohol 40-B (Anhydrous), Alcohol Denatured 32.00%

Magnesium Stearate NF FCC Kosher. Magnesium Stearate 2.50%

Propellant

A-46, Local Isobutane (and) Propane 60.00%

Total 100.00%

Reviving Dry Shampoo Formulation options



Concentrate





4.50%

TAPIOCA PURE Starch,


Tapioca Starch 1.00%

SD Alcohol 40-B

(Anhydrous),

Alcohol Denatured 32.00%

Magnesium Stearate NF

FCC Kosher.

Magnesium Stearate 2.50%

Propellant


Total 100.00

%

Choose either

Dryflo PC or

Dryflo TS

Choose

Tapioca Pure/

Natrasorb HFB/

Purity 21C

DME or

Propane/

Butane

Substitue

some starch

for other

additives


Further Formulation Examples


Oil Absorbing Dry Shampoo 14274-128.E2



Concentrate


DRY-FLO® PC Starch,


Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 3.00%

NATRASORB® HFB Starch,


Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (and)

Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium

Carbonate

3.00%

Magnesium Stearate NF FCC Kosher Magnesium Stearate 1.00%

Propellant

Demeon® D Dimethylether

AkzoNobel Industrial Chemicals

Dimethyl Ether 80.00%

Total 100.00%

Invisible Dry Shampoo 2510-2.A



Concentrate


1,2-Propanediol, Merck Propylene Glycol 0.75%

Dow Corning 193C Fluid,

Dow Corning Corp.

PEG-12 Dimethicone 0.10%





1.00%

Magnesium Stearate NF FCC Kosher, Magnesium Stearate 0.50%

Propellant


Total 100.00%

Dry Shampoo with Control 14274-128.A2



Concentrate


DRY-FLO® PLUS Starch,


Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 5.00%


DynamX® polymer (28% active)


Polyurethane-14 (and) AMP-Acrylates

Copolymer (and) Alcohol Denat. (and)

Water (Aqua)

3.00%

Propellant


AkzoNobel Industrial Chemicals

Dimethyl Ether 75.00%

Total 100.00%

Light Volumizing Powder 2510-13



Concentrate

SD Alcohol 40-B (Anhydrous) Alcohol Denatured 29.03%

1,2-Propanediol, Merck Propylene Glycol 0.75%

Dow Corning 193C Fluid, Dow Corning Corp. PEG-12 Dimethicone 0.10%





1.00%

BALANCE® 47 polymer,


Octylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butylaminoethyl

Methacrylate Copolymer

0.50%

AMP 95, Dow Chemical Co. Aminomethyl Propanol (and) Water 0.12%

Magnesium Stearate NF FCC Kosher,

Universal Preserv-A-Chem, Inc.

Magnesium Stearate 0.50%

Propellant


AkzoNobel Industrial Chemicals Dimethyl Ether 68.00%

Total 100.00%

Light Brown Volumizing Hair Powder 2234-78.D



Concentrate

SD Alcohol 40-B (Anhydrous) Alcohol Denatured 39.77%

BALANCE® 47 polymer,


Octylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butylaminoethyl

Methacrylate Copolymer

4.00%

NATRASORB® HFB starch,


Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates

Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate

4.00%


AMP 95, Angus Chemical Co. Aminomethyl Propanol (and) Water 0.94%

Cosmetic Black Iron Oxide #7133 Iron Oxides (CI 77489, CI 77491, CI 77492 or CI 77499) 0.06%

Unipure Brown LC 881 Iron Oxides (Cl 77491, CI 77492, CI77499) 0.10%

Unipure Yellow LC 182 Iron Oxides (Cl 77492) 0.38%

Propellant


AkzoNobel Industrial Chemicals Dimethyl Ether 50.00%

Total 100.00%

Formulating Guidelines


Choice of starch

• Toolbox for oil absorbancy and aestetics

• Starch blends show lower whitening than singular starches

Choice of propellant

• Propellant levels and type influence formulation dryness

• DME provides a drier spray than other propellants

• DME can provide smaller particle sizing

Choice of polymer

• Low levels (0.8%) provide hold, control and static reduction

without stickiness

• DynamX® polymer gives flexibility and restylable control

• RESYN® and BALANCE® polymers provide firmer hold and

‘crunch”


Dry Shampoo to grow in future


• Formulated to address specific needs

– Convenience

– Added texture

– Color protection

• New benefits could further spur growth

in the category

– Enhanced shine

– Appealing fragrance

– Conditioning

Our toolbox is up for it!



Market launches


Philippines

Dove Hair Therapy Refresh + Care Invigorating Dry Shampoo is designed to refresh and revive hair between regular washes. The product absorbs oil between traditional washes so that the hair looks and feels refreshed. The weightless formula cleans to transform the hair from lifeless to bouncy for voluminous hair for longer. The product retails in a 141g pack.

26

Dove Hair Therapy Refresh + Care Invigorating Dry Shamp…

2218831

Unilever

Oct 2013

Isobutane, Propane, SD Alcohol 40-B, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Butane, fragrance, Isopropyl Myristate, Silica, Cyclopentasiloxane

Shampoo

Long-Lasting*

Country:

Company:

Date Published:

Sub-Category:

Ingredients:

Claims:

PHP299.00

$6.59 / €4.92

Price (local):

Price (major currencies):

http://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/2218831/&utm_source=download&utm_medium=ppt

UK

Asda Dry Shampoo is designed to refresh, brighten and revitalise hair between washes. According to the manufacturer, the product is quick and easy to use, and leaves hair looking, feeling and smelling clean and fresh. It is suitable for vegetarians, and retails in a recyclable pack. Asda is against animal testing.

27

Asda Dry Shampoo

2078477

Asda

Aug 2013

Butane, Isobutane, Propane, Alcohol Denat., Zea Mays Starch, parfum, Dicocoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Propylene Glycol

Shampoo

Ethical - Environmentally Friendly Package, Time/Speed, Ease of Use, Brightening / Illuminating*, No Animal Ingredients, Vegetarian, Ethical - Animal

Country:

Company:

Date Published:

Sub-Category:

Ingredients:

Claims:

£1.00

$1.59 / €1.28

Price (local):



USA

Clean Original Dry Shampoo is now available in a newly designed 0.953-oz. pack. Designed to absorb oil, it is formulated with Cotton Vantage technology that blends cotton seeds, cotton extract and cotton proteins, leaving the hair feeling and smelling fresh with a time-released Clean fragrance. The product is free from parabens and sulfates.

28

Clean Original Dry Shampoo

2141788

Fusion Brands

Aug 2013

Zea Mays Starch, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Kaolin, Silica, Gossypium Herbaceum, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Extract (Extract, Seed), Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil (Seed), fragrance, Tapioca S…

Shampoo

Botanical/Herbal, Sulphate/Sulfate Free, Paraben Free

Country:

Company:

Date Published:

Sub-Category:

Ingredients:

Claims:

$10.00

€8.05

Price (local):



Russia

Percy & Reed Sukhoy Shampun' Krasota v Odno Mgnovenie (No-Fuss Fabulousness Dry Shampoo) is said to be easy to use and gives hair a beautiful 'just-washed' look even if there is no time to wash it. The product is claimed to feature a unique formulation that is designed to soak up excess oil and cleanse the scalp, leaving the hair looking fresh, shiny and shi…

29

Percy & Reed No-Fuss Fabulousness Dry Shampoo

2129332

Percy & Reed

Jul 2013

Butane, Propane, Isobutane, Alcohol Denat., Corn Starch Modified (Modified), parfum, Betaine, Linalool

Shampoo

Ease of Use, Brightening / Illuminating*, Ethical - Environmentally Friendly Package

Country:

Company:

Date Published:

Sub-Category:

Ingredients:

Claims:

RUR750.00

$24.13 / €19.42

Price (local):



UK

The Charles Worthington Salon at Home Style Setter range includes styling products claimed to keep every strand in place without losing hair's natural beauty and movement, for 'red-carpet glamour all day'. It includes Dry Shampoo, which is enriched with sweet blue lupin peptide and designed to absorb oil, and refresh and revitalise hair, as well as strengthe…

30

Charles Worthington Salon at Home Style Setter Dry Sham…

2087186

PZ Cussons

Aug 2013

Butane, Isobutane, Alcohol Denat., Oryza Sativa Starch, Propane, Tapioca Starch, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Cyclopentasiloxane, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil (Seed), Hydrolyzed Lupine Seed Extract (E…

Shampoo

Botanical/Herbal, Paraben Free, Long-Lasting*, Ethical - Animal, Damaged Hair

Country:

Company:

Date Published:

Sub-Category:

Ingredients:

Claims:

£5.99

$9.52 / €7.66

Price (local):



USA

Bosley Professional Strength Bos Renew Volumizing Dry Shampoo is a light volume, weightless formulation for all hair types, fortified with DHT Inhibitors for fine and thinning hair. Used on dry hair, the product is designed to absorb dirt, excess oil and product build-up whilst building up volume, providing UV protection and maintaining colour by lengthening…

31

Bosley Professional Strength Bos Renew Volumizing Dry S…

2245864

Biorius

Nov 2013

Isobutane, SD Alcohol 40-B, Propane, Tapioca Starch Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Plankton Extract (Extract), Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract (Extract), Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract (Extract), Arctiu…

Shampoo

UV Protection, Ethical - Animal

Country:

Company:

Date Published:

Sub-Category:

Ingredients:

Claims:

$18.95

€14.15

Price (local):



Brazil

Cless Charming Shampoo a Seco Pós Quimica (Dry Shampoo for Chemically Treated Hair) is designed to cleanse and scent hair in all occasions. According to the manufacturer, its exclusive formula neutralises odours, helps repair chemically treated hair and instantly removes oiliness. It contains: UV filter to protect the hair from external aggression and prolon…

32

Cless Charming Dry Shampoo for Chemically Treated Hair

2191131

Ákua

Sep 2013

Butane, Propane, Alcohols, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, parfum (fragrance), Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Aqua, Zea Mays Starch (Hydrolyzed), Beta Vulgaris Root Extract (Extract, Root)

Shampoo

Damaged Hair, Botanical/Herbal, Odour Neutralising, UV Protection, Time/Speed, Ethical - Environmentally Friendly Product

Country:

Company:

Date Published:

Sub-Category:

Ingredients:

Claims:

BRL10.45

$4.68 / €3.77

Price (local):




Different names and claims


Japan

Clear Men Hair & Scalp Expert is a new haircare range developed for Japanese men, featuring a sparkling fruity scent. The products are designed to leave the hair strong and beautiful by delivering ingredients deeply into three layers of scalp. Available as part of the range is Sparkling Tonic, which features frizzling foam to promote blood circulation. The q…

34

Clear Men Hair & Scalp Expert Sparkling Tonic

2501641

Unilever

Jun 2014

active ingredients:Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Niacinamide, L-mentholother ingredients: Arginine,

Aspartic Acid, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Proline, Threonine, Isoleucine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Tocopherol, Sodium

Lactate, Squalane, Sodium Hydroxide, Menthoxypropanediol, Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Extract (Extract), Ubiquinone, PEG-

60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Hydrogenated), Sodium PCA, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Collagen (Hydrolyzed),

Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, PCA, Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, fragrance, Liquefied Petroleum Gas

Hair Treatments

Male, Anti-Hairloss, Vitamin/Mineral Fortified, Ethnic

Country:

Company:

Date Published:

Sub-Category:

Ingredients:

Claims:

JPY1260.00

$11.25 / €8.40

Price (local):


http://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/2501641/?utm_source=download&utm_medium=ppt

France

Toni & Guy Casual Spray Texture Rock (Rough Texturiser) is designed to give a dishevelled and matt finish to hair. The dry formula is also said to instantly add volume from the roots and a backcombed effect for a casual look. The product retails in a 200ml pack featuring a QR code.

35

Toni & Guy Casual Rough Texturiser

2434017

Unilever

May 2014

: Butane, Isobutane, Alcohol Denat., Propane, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, parfum (fragrance),

Aqua, Isopropyl Myristate, Silica, Alpha-isomethyl Ionone, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Salicylate, Butylphenyl

Methylpropional, Citral, Citronellol, Coumarin, Geraniol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, L-limonene,

Linalool

Hair Styling

Time/Speed

Country:

Company:

Date Published:

Sub-Category:

Ingredients:

Claims:

€8.95

$11.99

Price (local):



India

L'Oréal Professionnel Tecni.Art Force 1 Fresh Dust Texturising Dry Shampoo is described as a style reviver that creates big airy volume and fresh texture with light style control, to instantly make hair feel and smell fresh with a long lasting effect. The product is retailed in a 150ml pack.

36

L'Oréal Professionnel Tecni.Art Force 1 Fresh Dust Text…

2388671

L'Oréal

Apr 2014

Butane, Alcohol Denat., Propane, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Diisopropyl Adipate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Benzoate, L-limonene, Linalool, Benzyl Alcohol, parfum (fragrance), C49036/2

Shampoo

Time/Speed, Long-Lasting*

Country:

Company:

Date Published:

Sub-Category:

Ingredients:

Claims:

INR950.00

$14.69 / €10.97

Price (local):



USA

It's a 10 Miracle Dry Shampoo & Conditioner In One is claimed to instantly refresh hair, fragrance, absorb excess oil, create slip, add shine and body, improve hair texture and condition hair shaft. Enriched with keratin, the lightweight, cruelty-free product does not require water and can be used with or without heating appliances. It retails in a 6-oz. pac…

37

It's a 10 Miracle Dry Shampoo & Conditioner In One

2331854

It's a "10"

Mar 2014

Isobutane, Alcohol Denat., Propane, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Aluminum Starch

Octenylsuccinate, Hydrolyzed Keratin (Hydrolyzed), Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Magnesium Stearate,

Cetrimonium Chloride, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde,

Citronellol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, L-limonene, Geraniol, Linalool, fragrance (parfum)

Shampoo

Brightening / Illuminating*, Time/Speed, Ethical - Animal

Country:

Company:

Date Published:

Sub-Category:

Ingredients:

Claims:

$23.00

€17.17

Price (local):



USA

Coppola Keratin Complex Style Therapy Lock Luster Nourishing Spray Conditioner is said to possess a keratin-enhanced formula that adds shine and glossiness. It is also said to instantly detangle and condition without weighing down hair. The product retails in a 3.5-oz. pack.

38

Coppola Keratin Complex Style Therapy Lock Luster Nourishing Spray

Conditioner…

2326578

Copomon Enterprises

Feb 2014

SD Alcohol 40, Isobutane, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Propane, Propylene Glycol, Phenyl

Trimethicone, parfum (fragrance), Butylene Glycol, Panax Ginseng Extract (Extract, Root), Eucalyptus

Globulus Leaf Extract (Extract), Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract (Extract), Chamomilla Recutita

Flower Extract (Extract), Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract (Extract), Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

(Extract, Root), Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract (Extract), Hydrolyzed Keratin (Hydrolyzed)

Conditioner

Brightening / Illuminating*, Time/Speed

Country:

Company:

Date Published:

Sub-Category:

Ingredients:

Claims:

$24.99

€18.66

Price (local):



Norway

Björn Axén Style Mattifying & Volume Styling Powder is said to provide lasting hold and volume whilst giving a matte effect to greasy hair. It is claimed to be ideal to freshen the hair between washes, and retails in a 200ml pack.

39

Björn Axén Style Mattifying & Volume Styling Powder

2279045

Björn Axén

Jan 2014

Butane, Propane, Alcohol Denat., Solanum Tuberosum Starch, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Aqua, Cocotrimonium Methosulfate, Hydrated Silica (Hydrated), parfum

Hair Styling

Long-Lasting*

Country:

Company:

Date Published:

Sub-Category:

Ingredients:

Claims:

NOK149.00

$22.60 / €16.87

Price (local):



UK

Alberto VO5 Plump It Up Dry Backcombing Spray has been relaunched with new product name (previously Dry Backcomb Spray) and is now available in a newly designed 200ml recyclable pack featuring a QR code. The formula features collagen and it has been designed for users who want volumised hair without the damage caused by backcombing. The dry spray is claimed …

40

Alberto VO5 Plump It Up Dry Backcombing Spray

2244410

Unilever

Dec 2013

Butane, Isobutane, Propane, Alcohol Denat., Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Collagen, Aqua,

Isopropyl Myristate, Silica, parfum, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Salicylate, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Hexyl

Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, L-limonene, Linalool

Hair Styling

Ethical - Environmentally Friendly Package, Time/Speed, Long-Lasting*

Country:

Company:

Date Published:

Sub-Category:

Ingredients:

Claims:

£3.49

$5.37 / €4.01

Price (local):



UK

The Alberto VO5 Give Me Texture range is designed to give a perfectly tousled, texturised hair that looks 'super natural and super sexy'. Available in newly designed packs as part of the range are: Dry Texturising Spray (119g/£3.85); Instant Oomph Powder (7g/£4.09); Tousled Style Spray (£3.89); and Choppy Crème Wax (£3.00). Dry Texturising Spray contains sea…

41

Alberto VO5 Give Me Texture Dry Texturising Spray

2244585

Unilever

Dec 2013

Butane, Isobutane, Propane, Alcohol Denat., Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Sodium Chloride,

Aqua, Isopropyl Myristate, Silica, parfum (perfume), Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Salicylate, Butylphenyl

Methylpropional, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, L-

limonene, Linalool

Hair Styling

Ease of Use, Time/Speed, Long-Lasting*

Country:

Company:

Date Published:

Sub-Category:

Ingredients:

Claims:

£3.85

$5.92 / €4.42

Price (local):



Thank you for your attention

jane wilson global account manager june 2014 · dry shampoo is here to stay from cleansing...

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