jean paul gaultier and i
TRANSCRIPT
Analysis of the brand
Jean Paul Gaultier started his career at a very young age, 18. His first job
was with Pierre Cardin from whom he learnt that “everything was passible” in terms of
creation and materials.
Gaultier is known for his eclectic mixes, he has different inspirations each
collection and he normally has a very diverse design mix, but some of the traits he
repeats are: fetischitic clothes and corsets, navy inspiration, mix between female and
male styles, urban art, tribes and cultures. I´ve analysed his past 14 pret a porter
collections and I came up with my own conclusions about the kind of materials he
normally uses, he always choses a see-through fabric and in most of the collections I
was able to find leather and fur.
I´ve been to Jean Paul Gaultier exhibition and I could see his most important
works displayed at Grand Palais in Paris. He was the designer of Madonna´s famous
corsets that could show exactly his passion of mixing feminine and masculine style.
Analysis of previews collections
Elements present in almost all
collections: -Fur
-Feathers
-Emboridery
-Corsets
-Sctructured pieces
-Navy style
-See-through fabric
-Ajusted pices
Inspiration and focus of the brand
-Artist/singers´ costumes
-Punk inspiration
-Streetstyle
-Mixed references
-Cities inspired (London – Paris)
-Wild nature
-Indigenous people
- Mairmaids and fantasy creatures
Analysis of the brand
Accordig to Jean Paul Gaultier´s biography and Carreer book:
-“ Eclectic mixes are his trademark” (page 9).
- Gaultier was very ifluenced by the feminist movement and the gay movement, that´s
why we see a lot of mix genres in his clothing. (page 13).
- “ Even beyound haute cauture, one can detect in Gaultier´s work a sort of fetishitic or
kitsh archawology of feminine artifice and apparel.” ( Page 4).
- Gaultier´s method was: COLLECT – CONVERT – COMBINE ( Page 7).
- “ Pierre Cardin thaught Gaultier that everything was posible” specilly when it comes
to material. (pade 6).
by Maísa Benatti
After studying about the brand, reading about the designer and analysing his
collections, I´ve decided I really needed to have corsets, navy inspired looks and
something related to street style in my collection. Another important trait was to try to
have some feminine silluettes. In JPG brand´s book, I could find a quote talking about
the colors he normally uses in his collections – mostly pastels, shades of sepia and rust
colors, so I´ve decided to chose colors that could keep his trait.
My “own” inspiration was Lisbon, Gaultier has already designed collections
about cities ( London and Paris) so I´ve decided that my trait in this collection was to
get inspired in the city that I live. The things that inspired me the most for this collection
was my neighborhood (Expo), Vasco da gama tower and Oriente station. I´m also very
fascinated with the street art in Lisbon, so I chose to have some grafitti inspiration in
my work as well. Next you can visually understand that by the two moodboards I´ve
created.
Color chart
Corvo
Ref:C001
Pantone: Process Black
Cimento
Ref:C002
Pantone: 416C
Marina
Ref:C003
Pantone: 283C
Torre
Ref:C004
Pantone: Trans. white
Galão
Ref:C005
Pantone: 463C
Telha
Ref:C006
Pantone: 463C
frisante
Ref:C007
Pantone: 135C
Dusk
Ref:C008
Pantone: 1485C
Material Chart - Fabric
Ref:T001
Berta
87% PES 23%PUE
$12,95
Ref:T002
Jabuti
90% PES 10% PUE
$6,95
Ref:T003
Strap
80%CV 20%PUE
$12,95
Ref:T004
Mousseline
100% PES
$4,95
Ref:T005
Vania
90%PES 10%PUE
$6,95
Ref:T006
Kondo
95%CO 5%PUE
$5,95
Ref:T007
Napa
100%PES
$9,95
Ref:T008
Voile
100% PES
$6,95
Ref:T009
Ceramica
100% VC
$9,95
Material Chart - Trims
Ref:M001
Ziper 20cm
$1,40
Ref:M002
Invisible Ziper 30cm
$1,80
Ref:M003
Beads
$3,00 Pack
Ref:M004
Fins
$3,00m
Ref:M005
Eyelets
$0,50 each (placed)
Ref:M006
Wadding
$3,95
Ref:M007
Leather straps
$1,20m
Ref:M008
Hook
$1,10
Ref:M009
Ribbon
$0,90m
Ref:M010
Lint
$4,00 pack
References: