©2017 T

he Punxsutawney Spirit &

Jefferson County N

eighbors

Jefferson County OutdoorsApril 2017

A Special Publication of

The Punxsutawney Spirit and Jefferson

County Neighbors

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By Ronda addyYou like to fish, but you are tired

of doing the same old kind of fish-ing. You are looking for something a little different. You are consider-ing fly-fishing, but you think it might be too hard to learn. That’s not entirely true. With a few tips and some basic information, you can learn the art of fly-fishing.

One of the most important things you need to know about fly-fishing is the knots.

• Snell knot. Use this knot when fishing with bait and when using a separate length of leader. Use it only when using a leader.

• Albright knot. Use this knot when joining your main line to a shock leader. It is a small knot that is not easy to tie.

• Surgeon’s knot. Use this knot for joining the main line to the shock leader. It is a good knot for salmon fishing.

Now that you know the knots, how about the fly-fishing tech-niques?

• Wet fly-fishing. This tech-nique uses artificial flies that float just beneath the surface of the water when casting.

• Dry fly-fishing. This technique uses artificial flies that float on the water’s surface when casting.

• Nymph fishing with indicator. This technique follows the same principle as wet fishing. The differ-ence is in the way you fish. Instead of casting downstream, you cast upstream.

• Reservoir fishing. With this technique, you fish in a large area of still water, like a lake or pond. You can fish using either the dry or

wet method or you can use stream-ers, very large, colorful flies that imitate small fish and are popular with trout.

• Pike fishing. This technique is similar to streamer fishing only using bigger flies, as pike don’t like small flies.

The fly line is another important piece of equipment. What line you use is determined by your rod and technique:

• For dry or nymph fishing, use a floating line.

• For wet and streamer fishing, use a sinking line.

• For all techniques, use an intermediate line.

All this is well and good, but what about the fly-fishing rod? Fly rods are tied directly to the size of the fly line used in casting. For ex-ample, a rod that is eight in weight will ideally work with a line that is an eight. The larger the rod num-ber, the larger the line that can be used for casting. In fly-fishing you do not cast the fly rod, but the fly line. If the fly is too heavy, the line will sag and will not cast properly. The fly size determines the size of the line that will properly cast it. It is not necessary for you to go out and buy a different rod for every occasion. For pond and stream fishing, a five weight rod and line will work. For more sophisticated fishing in gin-clear spring creeks with small dry flies, a three weight and line will work.

You have the absolute essentials for the fly-fishing beginner, but there may be some other things that you need:

• Boots or wadders and a bag to

carry them in• A strong, durable rod carrier• A fly-book, a case, usually in

the form of a book, in which artifi-cial flies for fishing are kept

• Tippet spools—keep three or four extra on hand with small size monofilament so you can replace the tip of the leader

• Spare leaders and a reel roll• Small pliers• Polarized glasses, useful if

you want to watch the fish in the water

• Line clipper• Piece of tinder or a small

chamois to dry your fliesThese are just the equipment

basics. What about the actual casting? Set up a target, like a hula hoop or bucket. Attach a piece of yarn to the end of your leader and then practice casting into your target. Practicing will help you with your eye-hand coordination needed to consistently get the fly on target. Opening your loop at various heights by casting at a tree is another good technique. By tapping your yarn on branches all over the tree, you will see how little movement is actually required to accomplish this. When doing this, you can also see how casts at different heights result in different amounts of slack in the leader if you let the cast fall to the ground.

When you imagine someone fly-fishing, they are usually in a secluded area surrounded by the beauty of nature. That’s not a bad picture. As Tom Brokaw says, “If fishing is a religion, fly-fishing is high church.”

By TResa eRicksonAsk any group of anglers

what the best fish around is, and chances are you’ll get a wide range of answers. While some might insist it’s the largemouth bass, others might say it’s the trout or the bluegill. One answer that you’re likely to hear is the catfish. Although catfish don’t require a lot of special equipment, they are a challenge to keep on the line and reel in.

Catfish are numerous through-out the continent of North Amer-ica. The four major types there include the flathead, the blue cat, the channel cat and the bullhead. Flatheads range in size from three to 10 pounds (and sometimes more) and can be found in large rivers, bayous and reservoirs. Blue catfish are equal in size and can be found in large rivers and reservoirs. Channel catfish are smaller, 15 pounds or less, and can be found in streams, rivers,

lakes and ponds. Bullheads are the smallest of the four, about two to three pounds, and can be found in most bodies of water.

The essentials for catching catfish vary. While some anglers keep it simple with a small spin-ning outfit, others go all out with a super-long rod and a big reel. Generally, your choices should reflect the size of catfish you hope to catch and the conditions where you plan to catch them. For larger fish in riprapped banks, for example, you may want a baitcasting reel, a strong line and a large, heavy-gauge hook. As for the bait to use, that runs the gambit. Catfish will eat almost anything from live and dead bait to unusual tidbits like chunky dog food and soap.

Catfish are active day and night during warm weather and cold. You’ll find them almost anywhere with structure from rocky points to flooded timber. They prefer

deep water during the day and shallow at night. There are several ways you can go about fishing for catfish. Two of the most common include drift and set. Drift works well when fishing with natural baits. With this technique, you use just enough weight to take the bait to the bottom and let the current move it where the catfish are located. Set works well when fishing with scent baits. There are many variations of this technique, but most anglers use a three-way swivel rig. You simply attach the main line to a swivel eye and drop lines 10 and 20 inches long to the remaining eyes. Then you attach a hook to the longer drop and a bell sinker to the shorter line and start fishing.

Fishing for catfish can be great fun for both beginners and experienced anglers. If you have never tried to hook a catfish, give it a try. You just might enjoy the challenge.

Learning the art of fly-fishing

Gone fishin’ for that wily catfish

By TResa eRicksonYou haven’t been fishing in

years, but now that you’re re-tired, you’re looking forward to spending many a day fishing by the bank. You’ve heard there are some good places to fish nearby, but you’re going to have to see for yourself. Let the search for the perfect fishin’ holes begin.

Because you plan to fish often, you will definitely want to restrict your search to the local area. What’s the point in spending more hours in the car than at the fishin’ hole? You will also want to determine the type of fish you’re after. Why check out catfish locales if you’re after trout?

Once you have an idea where you want to go, you can start making a list of potential spots. Write down all of the good ones

you’ve heard about and ask friends and family for recom-mendations. Stop in at your local marinas and bait and tackle shops and ask around. The staff and cli-entele there should know about all of the local fishing spots as well as the conditions at them.

Should you come up short, don’t despair. There are other resources. Check with the public relations department at your state fish and wildlife agency. Conduct a search on the Web. Chances are you will come across many blogs, message boards and the like discussing the best local fishing spots. If all else fails, get a map of your area and start checking out all of the lakes, riv-ers and streams.

Rank the spots you come up with and pay the top ones a visit. This will give you a chance to

see what the fishing is really like there. Don’t be afraid to ap-proach any anglers you see and get their opinions of the place. Find out how often they come to the spot and what kind of a catch they make. Get out your pole and do some fishing of your own.

Depending upon how well known the spots are that you choose, you may be able to hire a guide for your first trip out. They will be familiar with the area and provide you with loads of helpful tips and information. You will learn more than you would on your own in a very short time.

Finding the right fishin’ holes takes work. Be prepared to put in the time, and don’t expect to get it right the first go-around. It might take you a few trips before you find the best spots for you.

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By TResa eRicksonWhen you were a kid, your

dad took you fishing a lot. As you got older, your time sitting on the bank waiting for a bite all but disappeared and you were lucky if you got out on the water once a year. Now that you are a father and have a few kids, you would like to get into fishing again. Obviously, the equipment has changed since you were a kid, so before you set out, you need to check out what’s available and select what will work best for you. Here is some information on the fishing line that you are likely to encounter.

There are many types of fish-ing line. Some of the most com-mon include monofilament, copolymer, braided and fluoro-carbon. Monofilament consists of a single resin-based line and is the least expensive of the four. It works well for all-purpose open water fishing. Copolymer is a hy-brid monofilament that will not freeze in cold weather. Braided line consists of twisted fibers and

works well in areas with heavy cover due to its great strength and abrasion resistance. It is more ex-pensive than monofilament and copolymer line. Fluorocarbon line is the most expensive of the four and nearly disappears under the water. Because it coils, how-ever, it can be difficult to work with but will make excellent leader material on a monofila-ment or braided line.

Fishing line comes in a va-riety of diameters, pound-test strengths and colors. For the best results, look for fishing line with the smallest diameter and highest pound-test strength you can for the species of fish you’re after. The smaller the diameter and the higher the strength of the line, the more fish you are likely to catch on it. As for the color of the line, you should try to match it to the color of the water where you will be fishing for the least visibility possible.

Two other features you will want to consider are the stretch factor and abrasion resistance of

the line. The stretch factor will depend upon the species of fish you’re after and the area where you will be fishing. If you are going bass fishing in an area with a lot of stumps, for example, you probably will not want much stretch in your line, else it could get caught up in the stumps. Whatever line you choose, make sure it is resistant to abrasion. You don’t want to land a big one and lose it because your line gets nicked and snaps.

Once you have found a fishing line that satisfies you, you need to keep an eye on it while fishing. Even the most abrasion-resistant line can get damaged. Watch out for thinning, nicks and other marks. Make sure you change the line as soon as any damage occurs. It will save you a ton of money in lost tackle.

There are a number of factors to consider when looking for fishing line and a wide variety to choose from. Make your choice carefully, and when in doubt, ask someone who knows.

Update your lines with a little research

An early search will find the best spots for you

Don’t forget April 15 is the start of fishing season.

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By Ronda addyYou put a great deal of thought into the rod and

reel you take fishing, but how much thought do you put into your accessories, in particular your fishing waders? Fishing waders are essential for anyone fishing in rivers and streams, but not all waders are created equal. There are several types, each of which has good points and bad points. Here is some information to help you make the right choice.

Before you go shopping for waders, you must decide whether you are going to use them for fishing or fishing and hunting. This will help you select the right material. Waders come in several materials:

• Neoprene is the most popular material for fishing waders. Neoprene waders are comfortable, durable and relatively inexpensive. They come in 3mm or 5mm thickness; 3mm works well for fish-ing on moderately cold days while 5mm works well for fishing and hunting in cold weather. Neoprene waders are available in a variety of colors, including blue and camouflage.

• Breathable waders are becoming more popular and replacing neoprene as the material of choice for waders. The material allows moisture to escape, even in water. Breathable waders are extremely comfortable because of their loose fit but lack the durability of neoprene. They can be worn with sweatpants in the winter or alone in the summer.

• Rubber waders weigh more than other types but lack breathability and flexibility. They are fairly inexpensive and serve well as an emergency backup pair.

• Canvas waders are durable and inexpensive,

making them a good choice for beginners. They are getting harder to find, though, and are not as flexible, lightweight or breathable as other types.

• Nylon waders are a good choice for beginner fly fisherman because they are lightweight and warm. They are not breathable, though, and any sweat buildup can cause clothes to become damp, which could lead to hypothermia in the winter.

The fit of the waders is another important consideration. Ill-fitting waders can restrict your range of motion, making you uncomfortable and causing you to tire easily, all of which can increase your chances of having an accident. Tight-fitting waders can make the addition of clothes in the winter difficult.

The boots you wear with your waders are an-other factor. Boot foot waders come in one piece with the boots attached and make a wise choice for cold weather and water. They are easy to take on and off, low maintenance and keep sand or rocks out. Stocking foot waders are similar in construction to boot foot waders but don’t have the rubber boots attached. Instead, they have a neoprene sock attached, which may or may not keep sand and rocks out of the boots you purchase separately.

Different boot soles work for different condi-tions. Lugged soles work well in muddy bottom water, while felt soles work well in gravel or rock bottom water.

For an enjoyable fishing or hunting experi-ence, you must choose the right type of waders. Once you have found them, make sure you care for them properly by reading and following the manufacturer’s directions.

Choose the right waders for the task

By doRis a. BlackThere are more than 2,200

species of catfish worldwide, living on every continent except Antarctica. They can be small or large, ugly or beautiful. For example, one of the ugliest is the wels, a giant catfish of Eurasia. It can grow more than 15 feet long and weigh over 600 pounds. Corydoras, on the other hand, are one of the most beautiful home aquarium fish. The cat-fish family also includes exotic species, such as Africa’s elec-tric catfish that can provide up to 300 volts of shocking power and a South American catfish that croaks. The most ominous of the cats is the tiny candirus of South America. Only a half inch long, it feasts on humans! Catfish are among the most diverse fish on the planet.

Catfish are extremely sensi-tive creatures. As their name implies, all catfish have whis-kers or barbels. These barbels are extremely sensitive organs of taste and feel. They help the catfish locate food in murky waters. Catfish do not have scales. Their smooth skin is completely covered in taste buds, giving them an unbe-lievable sense of taste. Catfish don’t have noses, but they have excellent olfactory pits with nostrils that provide them with an extraordinary sense of smell. You might think catfish have poor eyesight with their small beady eyes, but in real-ity, they see very well in dark, muddy waters as well as clear, clean waters. They can also see colors. Both these facts help them spot and capture food. Although they don’t have ears, catfish hear well. They receive soundwaves through their skin that, in turn, create vibrations in their inner ear bones. Cat-fish are especially sensitive to low-frequency vibrations and can hear creatures swimming, crossing sand and even you approaching on shore.

Although catfish have ex-cellent senses, they don’t need to taste, feel, smell, see or hear food to know when it is avail-able. Like sharks, they possess an amazing sense known as electroreception. Through this

sense alone, they can sense and find prey. Every living organism produces an electri-cal impulse. Catfish detect this impulse through the electrore-ceptive pits on their head and along their lateral line, and know where dinner is.

Very few fish can taste, feel, smell, see and hear as well as catfish. Because of this, they thrive in many different habitats, often in places where other fish cannot. The United States and Canada are home to 45 different species of catfish; the most common is the chan-nel cat. Although channel cats were originally found only in the Great Lakes and Missis-sippi River region, they are now commonly stocked across the country. A few have been hooked at over 50 pounds; however, most caught are between one and 10 pounds. Anything over 20 pounds is of trophy quality and worth major bragging rights. Chan-nel cats are very aggressive fighters when caught, which may attribute to their popu-larity. They are also ravenous eaters, so you may be able to pull one out of the water after the other.

Though catfish can live in dark, muddy waters, they do best in clear waters with moderate currents and plenty of cover, such as logs and rocks. Catfish survive where other fish don’t because they are not picky eaters. They will eat just about anything from worms, leeches and crayfish to dead fish guts and chicken liv-ers. Even the most outrageous baits may get attention, such as dog food, marshmallows, cheese and grapes. During the day, adult catfish move to deeper water and return to shallows at night, seeking small prey.

The next time you land some catfish, take a moment to study their extraordinary phy-sique – their smooth, scaleless bodies, extra-sensitive barbels and small, inquisitive eyes – and perhaps consider which of their senses led them to your bait.

Catfish are among the most extraordinary creatures

By TResa eRicksonYou love to fish, and while

you’ve always tried to be an ethical angler and protect the areas you fish, you want to do more. Here are some tips to help you step up your efforts and use green fishing practices whenever possible.

Go at an opportune time and obey any regulations in place. Steer clear of the early spring when fish spawn and the late summer when fish are stressed due to lower oxygen levels from the heat. Know what the rules are, follow them and report any illegal activity you see.

Care for the land and water as though it were your own. Don’t trash it with chemicals and discarded gear. Take out everything you brought in and leave the area as clean as, if not cleaner than, you found it. Leave wildlife alone and take great steps not to disturb their habitat. Should you see others not doing the same, report it to authorities.

Use eco-friendly products.

There are many available, in-cluding barbless hooks and molded-type nets, both of which allow for easier, safer release of fish. Browse the Web or a sporting goods store near you and make the most of the green products you find.

Keep the spread of exotic species in check. Opt for arti-ficial lures rather than live bait when possible. Most artificial lures on the market today are more lifelike than ever. If you must use artificial bait, be care-ful to select native species. Do not bring in exotic species. They could survive, reproduce and damage the ecosystem.

Handle the fish you catch with care and keep only what you need. Use a damp towel to remove lures; this will keep the protective layer on the gills intact. If you must use barbed hooks and see one caught deeply in the fish, cut the leader rather than try to remove it. The hook will eventually rust out. Take home only what you need and are allowed, and properly re-

lease whatever fish you aren’t keeping.

Finally, spread the word. Take every opportunity to teach other anglers about the importance of protecting the environment and using green practices. The more you get the message out, the more other anglers will do their part and the better off the environment will be.

Jefferson County O

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By Ronda addyWhen you think of dangerous

sports, fishing is not one of them but there is an exception. Of all the different types of fishing, rock fishing is the most dangerous. There have been documented cases of individuals drowning while they were rock fishing. Why then would anyone want to go rock fishing? Rock fishing gives shore anglers the chance to catch fish that would normally be caught by boat anglers.

Before going rock fishing, there are some safety consider-ations to be aware of. Number one is don’t go fishing alone. Take someone with you, prefer-ably someone with rock fishing experience. Do not go early in the morning or late at night – it is harder to see the water condi-tions. Be sure to wear non-slide shoes, a flotation device and head protection, and don’t wear heavy clothing that will make it harder to swim if you get washed into the water. If you have a particular spot in mind, watch the wave and weather conditions for at least half an hour. The best spot is where experienced rock anglers go. Be sure to find out what the weather and tides are going to be like when you go fishing. You may have to leave your fishing spot quickly, so have an escape route planned. Have some idea how you will get out of the water in case you get swept in. Have a line with a float attached handy.

If you do get swept in, swim away from the rocks. In some of the more frequented rock fishing spots, there may be life rings placed around – don’t be afraid to use them if needed.

The best place to fish is an area with patches of white water. The fish congregate there because the food is constantly being dislodged by the waves. There at low tide you can get the best bait to use when rock fishing. Among the best baits to use are cunje, green weed and crabs, which work much better than commer-cial baits. Cunje is an invertebrate marine growth that is found on ocean rocks close to the shore. It can be used to catch most rockfish but works really well for catching drummer, bream and blue groper. Green weed is found on ocean ledges that are covered by water except during low tide. There are two different kinds: cabbage and string. Cabbage weed has a leafy appearance, while string is made up of long, fine strands. Drummer and luderick have a taste for green weed. There are two kinds of crabs used as bait: black and red. Black crabs can be found in rock pools and crevices. They move quickly so most anglers must use some sort of spear to catch them. Black crabs are a favorite of drummer and bream. Red crabs can be collected in crevices and under ledges at low tide near the water’s edge. Red crabs are a fa-vorite of groper. When collecting

bait, collect only enough for your immediate use. To attract the fish to your location, use the berley from the rocks.

Some of the more common types of rockfish include:

• Bream, drummer and tre-vally. Some types of bait to use are prawns, worms, nippers, fish pieces, chicken guts and cunjevoi.

• Whiting. Some types of bait to use are prawns, worms, nippers and pippies.

• Flathead. Some types of bait to use are prawns, squid, live mul-let, pilchards and fish pieces.

• Snapper. Some types of bait to use are WA pilchards, squid, garfish and flathead fillets.

• Tuna, mackerel and kingfish. Some types of bait to use are garfish, pilchards, live bait, lures, jugs and poppers.

• Tailor. Some types of bait to use are pilchards, whitebait and pippies.

• Salmon. Some types of bait to use are pilchards, whitebait and pippies.

• Mulloway. Some types of bait to use are prawns, squid, live mullet, pilchards and fish pieces.

Keep in mind that rock fishing will be harder on your equipment and some tackle and lures will be lost over the years. It may take some time before you gain expertise in rock fishing, but the rewards will be worth it.

Caught between a rock and the sea

Tips for becoming an ethical angler

By doRis a. BlackImagine being a trout on a

chilly spring morning with a fat, healthy wiggling worm approaching. How could you resist having that tasty morsel for breakfast? You couldn’t, and that’s why using fresh nightcrawlers as bait in early spring will help you land many fish. Finding and gath-ering your own nightcrawlers can be a rewarding and chal-lenging adventure.

Many people assume that nightcrawlers live in dirt, but that is not entirely true. While they spend a great deal of time underground, they live not in dirt but in tunnels they build from dirt. The tunnels allow them to reside in an atmosphere where they can survive. Nightcrawlers need constant moisture and a tem-perature range between 40 and 60 degrees. The earth between five feet and 12 feet deep provides this environment year-round and the tunnels allow nightcrawlers to travel to desired locations and to the surface for food, mating and fresh air.

Nightcrawlers do not share tunnels. Each builds their own tunnel to fit their own particular size. Nightcrawl-ers have no eyes or sense of smell, so once they leave their tunnels, which never happens voluntarily, they cannot re-turn. Heavy rains most often drive nightcrawlers from their tunnels. Once on the surface where they crawl across drive-ways and sidewalks, most die from exposure, are eaten by birds or run over by cars and trucks. Nightcrawlers do not crawl under normal circum-stances. It is only during these last few hours of life that they crawl at all. This periodic flooding is Mother Nature’s way of controlling the night-crawler population.

Not every yard is suitable for nightcrawlers. A lawn that is heavily fertilized or sprayed with chemicals will probably not have many worms at all. Since they prefer to eat rotting leaves and grass, a vacant lot, playground or cemetery may hold a jackpot of nightcrawl-ers. Because of heavy foot traffic and muddy puddles or bare spots, a playground is an excellent location to find nightcrawlers. The heav-ily compacted soil provides stable building material for the nightcrawlers’ tunnels.

When collecting night-crawlers, professionals rec-

ommend having the proper equipment on hand. First, you’ll need a container to hold them. The best thing to use is a one-gallon milk jug with the top half cut off. Prepare the container by puncturing holes into the sides and bottom, so that moisture and worm slime can escape. Make sure you puncture the holes from the inside out so that there will be no sharp edges inside the jug to injure the worms.

Nightcrawlers are very delicate creatures. They have soft bodies and no means of protection. An injured worm can kill the whole bunch. Have you ever bought a con-tainer of worms on the way to your favorite fishing hole only to discover them dead within an hour or two? There are two reasons this may happen—extreme heat and gas poisoning. On a fishing trip, nightcrawlers are usually rel-egated to the trunk of the car, where the temperature rises to levels they cannot tolerate. As a nightcrawler dies, it releases a poisonous gas that kills all the other worms nearby.

If you look for nightcrawl-ers after dark, you will need a flashlight. Here’s a trick for using a flashlight without star-tling the worms back into their tunnels. Place several sheets of toilet paper over the bright light and fasten with tape or a rubberband. This will dim the light enough, so it doesn’t shock the worms but still al-lows enough light for you to work. You should also wear soft-soled shoes, like mocca-sins or slippers, as hard-soled shoes are too noisy.

Collecting worms is easy right after or during a heavy rain. They are literally scat-tered all over driveways, side-walks, streets and lawns. All you have to do is pick them up. You can collect hundreds in less than an hour. Don’t be too greedy, though. Collecting them is the easy part; keeping them alive is another matter.

If you plan to collect more nightcrawlers than you can use for bait in one day, you’ll need to provide for their needs. Your first task is to make them a suitable home. Dirt is not a suitable home. Remember, they live in tun-nels not in dirt. They are also solitary creatures by nature, so you can’t just throw them all into a box. For the best qual-ity bait, the home you provide should separate the worms from each other and provide

them with constant moisture, even temperature and proper food. You’ll need space in a refrigerator that will provide a 40–50 degree environment. Purchase commercial bedding made of shredded paper and place three inches of it into a box no more than four inches tall. Do not put a lid on the box, as you’ll want the air to flow freely in and out of the box. Place the nightcrawlers gently in the box within 30 minutes after collecting. Let them do their own tunneling into the bedding. Those left on the surface will be injured or dead and should be removed immediately.

Check the box every day for the first week for dying nightcrawlers. Gently lift the bedding and remove the unhealthy ones. Remember, if left in the box, the poison-ous gases produced by dying nightcrawlers will kill all your worms. Nightcrawlers breathe through their skin, so it is important to constantly keep them moist. As you check the bedding, look to see if the nightcrawlers are all bunched up in the corner. This signals that the bedding is too moist. Gently mix in some dry bed-ding. Healthy crawlers eat ravenously. Feed them moist organic matter twice a day. The worms will eat the bed-ding along with the organic matter you add, so keep a fresh supply of bedding on hand.

Nightcrawlers don’t travel well. To get them to the fish alive, place them (with bed-ding) in a brown paper bag and roll up the bag from bot-tom to top. Keep them in a cooler on ice for the journey. By following these steps, you can have big, healthy nightcrawlers to use as bait anytime you go fishing, day or night.

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By cRaig W. aRmsTRongFor many people, fishing is a

family affair and one that Dad and Mom want their kids to ex-perience. Some kids will take to it like a fish takes to water. Other kids might find it boring or gross. The only way you will know for sure is to let them try.

One way to get them excited is to include them in the planning. This might be scouting locations or deciding what kind of fish you will be going after. This is also a good time to talk about fish, fish-ing and the tactics involved. They will learn by doing, but give them a good foundation for the fishing philosophy.

Next, outfit them with their own gear. Kids generally like “stuff.” This might mean getting them their own tackle box and lures. It will for sure mean getting them their own rod and reel. Make sure whatever rig you buy is age appropriate and is something they can handle.

Casting is not something that comes naturally to most people. For this reason you should spend time teaching them how to cast and allow lots of time for practice. This can be done in the backyard, which means you don’t have to go to the fishing hole. There will probably be frustration; be prepared for this and be patient.

Speaking of patience, that’s what fishing is all about. You know

this from your own fishing trips. Imagine asking a kid to be patient. Prepare for them to get bored. Bring along things that will keep them occupied while you wait for the fish to bite. While you may have the patience to fish, make sure you apply that same skill to your kids. It’s a safe bet that they will be more interested in throw-ing rocks, chasing butterflies or running around. Be prepared for this and take deep breaths.

Unless your child is a fishing prodigy, it’s probably best to start them out fishing with a bobber. If they do get a bite, teach them the proper technique for landing the fish and don’t get upset if they lose it. If your child is going to get hooked on fishing, the experience of reeling one in is probably when the magic will happen.

Whether the fish are biting or not, you need to be conscience of when to call it a day. Don’t stay out too long and ruin the experi-ence. On the other hand, if they are having fun, by all means keep casting.

Like many activities done as a family, fishing is about more than fishing. It’s about spending time together, sharing your wisdom, teaching values and quelling your child’s concerns. The most im-portant part is to enjoy your time together. Introduce your child to fishing and you may find a bond that will last a lifetime.

The in’s and out’s of a nightcrawler Their first fishing trip

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By TResa eRicksonFor some anglers, there is

nothing better than live bait. The movement, taste and texture of live bait just does not compare to that of artificial bait. If you have never fished with live bait, give it a try. You may find it beneficial.

For a successful outing, you need to know what type of live bait to use for the fish you’re after. Here is a list of fish and the types of live bait that they gener-ally prefer:

• largemouth bass. Although they will go after almost any-thing, largemouth bass prefer crayfish, frogs and minnows. Crayfish work best in rocky points and breaklines, frogs in shallow areas, and minnows in most other situations.

• smallmouth bass. This type of bass prefers crayfish above all else, but will go after leeches and minnows. The leeches must be rather large and used in water temperatures above 50 degrees, else they will ball up on the hook. Minnows can be used in almost any area but should increase in size as the season progresses and the fish get bigger.

• Bluegill and sunfish. Both of these fish prefer worms. How-ever, bluegill will go after mag-gots and waxworms during the cold months.

• catfish. Although they will eat almost anything, catfish pre-fer worms and foul dead bait, like chub, suckers, sardines and

liver.• crappie. These small fish

prefer small minnows in gen-eral, especially during the cold months, but will eat small por-tions of worms in the warm months.

• yellow Perch. Like crap-pie, yellow perch prefer small minnows, but will eat worms and small crayfish during the warm months. They may also eat leeches.

• Pike and muskie. Both of these fish prefer minnows above all else, preferably live during the warm months and dead during the cold months. However, they will go after oversized chub, frog, suckers or smelt.

• Walleye. These fish prefer leeches, minnows and night crawlers, but only at certain times of the year. They like minnows at the beginning and end of the season and night crawlers and leeches in between. They may also go after chub, shiners and suckers.

Now that you have an idea of the live bait to use, you need to know what hooks to use and how to attach those hooks. There are many types of fishing hooks available. Common ones include the Aberdeen hook, which is used mostly for larva baits, min-nows and worms; the bait-holder hook, which is used mostly for night crawlers; the Octopus-style hook, which is used for almost any type of bait from minnows

to leeches; and the circle hook, which is used mostly for catch-and-release fishing. Along with selecting some hooks, you will have to attach the bait to it. Here are some bait-hooking strategies for certain live bait:

• crayfish. You may attach the hook through the tail section half an inch from the end or hook it through the top of the shell if you are float fishing.

• Frogs. You may attach the hook through both lips from the bottom, which will allow the frog to swim naturally.

• leeches. You may attach the hook once through the large suction cup, which will allow the leech to swim naturally.

• minnows. You may either hook upward through both lips for trolling or rigging or impale the hook just below the dorsal fin for still fishing.

• night crawlers. Hooking these depends upon the fish you’re after. For panfish, you may thread the worm along the hook shank or impale it two or three times and leave the end dangling. For larger fish, you may hook the worm once through the collar, the middle or the end, keeping in mind that the more of the worm that dangles, the more action there will be.

Fishing with live bait takes some getting used to and is not for the squeamish. Make certain you can handle live bait before you attempt to use it.

Take this course...Live Bait 101

By TResa eRicksonEvery year more and more anglers take up

fly-fishing. Many like the way the fish feels on the rod, while others enjoy the challenge of the sport. Anyone can learn how to fly-fish, and with patience and practice, learn to do it well.

Fly-fishing involves several types of casts. For the beginner, these can be confusing. Here is a brief look at some of the basic casts.

standard castsTo make a standard cast, the angler first casts

the rod back. When the rod reaches a little past vertical and the fly line begins to straighten out, the angler snaps the rod forward, whipping the line to the desired area.

False castsTo make a false cast, the angler casts the rod

backward and forward, without touching the surface of the water. Anglers use false casts to lengthen and shorten the line, to switch direction and to dry out the fly.

Roll castsTo make a roll cast, the angler pulls the rod

back slightly and then thrusts it forward and down, causing the line to roll forward and straighten out. Anglers use roll casts to pull the line to the surface or in situations where there is not enough space or the winds are too fierce to cast backwards.

curve castsTo make a curve cast, the angler casts the line

forward to the right or left. Anglers use curve casts to position the fly around objects on the surface and to prevent fish from seeing the leader and the line as the fly passes over them.

Reach castsTo make a reach cast, the angler casts the

line at an extreme right-hand or left-hand angle. Anglers use reach casts to keep the fly from drag-ging downstream faster than the water on which it lands.

shooting castsTo make a shooting cast, the angler uses more

power than is necessary in a forward or backward cast to extend the line.

snake castsTo make a snake cast, the angler casts the line

forward and wiggles the rod tip up and down, causing the line to fall in the water in a series of “s” curves. Anglers use snake casts to put slack in the line and to keep the fly floating when casting downstream or across currents.

These are just some of the casts that anglers will become familiar with as they learn to fly-fish. Experts recommend that those new to the sport seek the help of a professional or seasoned veteran to learn the fundamentals and then develop a style of their own.

As with any sport, practice is key. The more the angler practices casting, the better he will become and the more natural it will feel.

The great art of fly-casting

By doRis a. BlackIn general, trout are timid

fellows, rather like rabbits in their response. They freeze when startled and dart into cover. They are fussy about what they eat and have developed the keen skill of camouflaging themselves to blend into their surroundings. Like all good hunters, anglers must know their quarry in order to successfully catch trout.

Trout are efficient eating ma-chines. They can spot an insect from two feet away and deter-mine if it warrants the energy necessary to obtain it or instead snack on something closer. For most of their lives, trout in mov-ing water feed on tasty insect morsels. They lie close to a stream bottom, preferably in a depression, where they sit still and let the fast-moving water bring the insects to them.

Aquatic insects and trout are both cold-blooded creatures that prefer a water temperature between 45 and 50 degrees. In the spring, as the waters begin to warm, insects emerge from their winter slumber and become prime targets for the drift-feeding trout. During the warmest parts of the day, young insects hatch, and trout, being the ever-efficient

eating machines they are, lie in wait at exactly the right time of day. Ideally, water temperatures between 50 and 70 degrees spurn hatching. Any hotter than that and both insect and trout activity dwindles, which is why the hot summer months offer poor fishing. However, as the fall brings cooler temperatures, the aquatic activity picks up and feeding frenzies continue. Many insects will have two or more hatch periods per year. It may be worthwhile to invest in a good insect book to know when these hatches occur. You’ll then know when the trout will be feeding heaviest.

Trout have excellent eyesight and can even see in low light. Many a mature trout, especially browns, will hide in a cool shel-tered spot during the day and come out at night in search of food. The mature fish take a more aggressive approach toward food and will patrol shallow waters at night for small fish or minnows. Although more energy is used to catch these types of food, the payoff, or calorie intake, is big-ger and worth the effort. Trout of all sizes will eat other fish, including those of their own species. It is mostly a matter of

availability.There are a couple of ways

you can determine what the trout are eating in the area you are fishing. First, ask at the local bait shop. The owners usually know what is happening in their area and you may run into a local an-gler who can tell you personally what worked for them. You can also observe the trout first-hand. Trout tip upwards to feed. If a trout is moving back and forth, but with no upwards tilt, it is feeding from the stream bottom. Usually crustaceans are on the menu. Trout have been observed rooting under rocks for larvae or grabbing a mouthful of weeds and shaking it from side to side. This activity releases scuds and sowbugs for the taking. If you see a swirl of water, the trout is most likely chasing minnows. Watch the shallows to see what kind of baitfish is present, then offer the trout a slightly larger specimen and make it look like it is chasing the baitfish. This will evoke an instinctive reaction in the trout.

There are many species of trout, the most common being the rainbow, brook and brown trout. Although now stocked throughout the country, rainbow

trout were originally found in the Pacific Ocean to as far east as the Rocky Mountains. They put on a more aerial display when hooked than other trout and prefer faster-moving waters than brook or brown trout. Though they pri-marily eat insects, rainbow trout have been caught with every-thing from live worms, spinners and wet flies to marshmallows, corn and cheese. The largest of rainbow trout can exceed 50 pounds. Wouldn’t that look nice mounted on your wall?

Brook trout were once found only in streams of the northeast, but are now common stock fish almost everywhere. Brook trout are generally smaller than 10 inches in length though under perfect conditions can grow to be three or four pounds. Brookies are very sensitive to temperature change and cannot survive low temperatures or waters of low oxygen content. They will eat just about anything and are easy to catch.

Brown trout were brought to North America from Europe in the late 1800s. They are now found throughout the United States and are routinely stocked in streams. They are a little more tolerant of water temperature

extremes and prefer deeper lo-cations than brook trout. Brown trout are very sly and difficult to catch for the beginning angler. Larger browns can reach 30 pounds and eat mainly smaller fish; smaller browns stick to a diet of strictly insects.

Trout are fun to study and even more fun to catch. Although any style of fishing may net you a trout, fly-fishing is by far the most predominant technique. No matter what type of trout you hook, you’ll be thrilled with the excitement of landing one.

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2017

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