jewellery 211 web

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No 292 / Spring 2011


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580 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10036 - [email protected] - www.assael.com


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Editors Letter

04 Paper Is So Last Millennium... or Is It?

Cover Feature

06 Opera Omnia Seductive Sonatas

Profiles

08 Eco-Gold by Jewelmer10 Ramon Devotion to Excellence

Colour Trends

12 Colours for Spring/Summer 2011

Marketplace

34 SIHH 2011 Optimism and Neoclassicism38 Vicenzaoro First Opens Under the Banner of Innovation42 Jewels in the Desert46 IIJS Signature 2011 Show Report

48 Index

12

I N T H I S I S S U E

32

On the CoverPendant, earrings, and ringin the Antigua collection in18K rose gold with amethyst,citrine, and diamonds byOpera Omnia.

Cover Feature on page 6

www.operajewels.comwww.opera-omnia.it

Colour Trends Nary ManUnderwater Treasures

Stephen Webster

Trends & Colours

20 Spring Flowers22 Lacy Looks24 Still Charming26 Black is the New Black28 Pure White30 Colour Combos32 Underwater Treasures

The Yearbook No 291 / Winter - Trends Guide 2011 is brought to you by CIJ International Jewellery TRENDS & COLOURS / Europa Star.ContributorsAdvertising contacts Alexandra Montandon [email protected] T. +41 22 307 7847 / Nathalie [email protected] T. +41 22 307 7832 /Italy - Alessandra Arati [email protected] T. +39 024 851 7853 / Spain - Carles Sapena [email protected] T. +34 93 112 7113 / Asia - Maggie Tong [email protected] DesignManaginOn the Web at: www.CIJintl.com and www.worldwatchweb.com - Published by Europastar HBM SA - 25 Acacias, 1227 Carouge, Geneva, Switzerland - Tel: +41.22.307.7837; Fax: +41.22.300.3748; Email: [email protected]

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of CIJ International Jewellery.

12

Colour Trends Nary Man

34Marketplace SIHH Cartier

20Spring Flowers Piaget

Underwater Trea

Stephen

22Lacy Looks Ole Lynggaard


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04

PaPer is so last millennium

or is it?

Cynthia Unninayar

Editor-in-Chie / CIJ Trends & Colours

Cynthia

We are hearing more and more these days about the death o paper. Some argue that because o the internet, paperwill go the way o the dinosaur, that online advertising will replace print, that paper is so last millennium

Well, not quite so ast.

A research study involving brain scans commissioned by the branding agency Millward Brown showsthat people process inormation dierently depending on whether it is virtual or on paper. The study

suggests that physical material is more real to the brain. It has a meaning, and a place. It is bet-ter connected to memory because it engages with its spatial memory networks.The study goes on to

state that physical materials produced more brain responses connected with internal feelings, suggestinggreater internalization of the ads.To sum it up, tangible materials leave a deeper footprint in thebrain than do virtual materials. Thus, tangible materials involved more emotional processing inthe subjects, important from a branding and ad recall standpoint.

Does this mean we should abandon the digital world? No, o course not. What this study shows is that both

mediums have important but dierentand we could add complementaryroles when it comes to marketing andbranding. Paper incites a more emotional and long lasting response but the interactivity and immediacy o digital havetheir own advantages.

To use our magazine, CIJ Trends & Colours, as an example, many o our readersretailers, designers, and brandshave complimented us on the attractive pages and layouts showing the trends and the many colours o jewellery romaround the world. Theirs was a physical response to the physical pages, to the print magazine they held in their hands.

Yet, ater printing and mailing the last issuethe 2011 trends tracker guideit was put online on our ratherunique website, www.CIJintl.com. The response surprised even us. It received nearly a million page

views. Obviously, both paper and digital are important parts o our world. Both have their place,and both can be used to eectively get a message out.

In this issue, we continue our message o colour, showing the Spring/Summer 2011

colours orecasted by Pantone, along with matching jewellery. In terms o trends,the foral theme is one o the biggest or 2011 and is eatured here along with the

popular marine motis and the luxurious lacy looksthe price o metals oblige. Whilecolour is, o course, the main trend, both in single shades and in multi-hues, black and white pieces

continue to be appreciated by many, as do the little charms that can be personalized in so many ways. Youcan see them all on our Trends & Colours pages in this issue.

Happy readingwhether you are holding the magazine in your hand or viewing it online.

E D I T O R S L E T T E R


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Marketing maestro Massimo Zerbini is not resting on hislaurels with the success o his new brand Opera Omnia.Having assembled a group o talented artisans andcreative designers, he continues to build this new anddistinctive brand through a style and set o values thatreect the post-modern world o ultimate luxury. Using

precious gems and the highest quality materials, OperaOmnia has just added two new collections, confrming its

prestigious status in terms o superior design, stone qualityand superb manuacturing.Innovation, new materials, high quality gemstones, diamonds and uniquecombinations o gems and precious metals are a ew o the phrases thatdescribe Opera Omnias latest collections o Antigua and S.Barths.There is something magically seductive about the curved lines, sinuousmovements, and interwoven patterns that make up the fne jewellery

pieces in the Antigua collection. In an almost theatrical mannerthey interpret a variety o historical baroque patterns that representa mixture o cultures, symbolisms, and mysticisms. The artistry andvirtuosity o each Antigua piece is enhanced by the uncommoncombinations o dierent gemstones. Amethyst coupled with Maderaquartz or citrine with smoky quartz, joined in unusual settings evokesa world o allegoric illusions and dreams. The thoughtul mix o yellowor rose gold with precious gems creates a certain rhythm that breakswith the past and brings it into the uture.The orces o Nature seem to come alive in a sot, yet assertiveashion in the S.Barths collection. Building an exclusive and absoluterelationship with Nature, the S.Barths collection presents smal

sculptures that can be worn and admired. Sot uid shapes in 18Krose or white gold suggest the sensuality o S.Barths Island andreect the movement o the isles owers and leaves. Colourul, airyand intensely eminine, these exquisite pieces bring together thefnest sapphires, rubies, and diamonds in creative and contemporarycombinations.Opera Omnia continues its popular Saba line with a variety o newdesigns. The latest creations continue the use o colour and thegeometric orms o its earlier lines, adding a very contemporary airin terms o design and vibrancy. Lively chromatic combinations opink gold, jet, multi-colour sapphires, and leather make these piecesexceptional.

Opera Omnia

Seductive SOnataS

06

Antigua Collection

Opera Omnia continues to create colourful jewellery that combinesItalian expertise in craftsmanship with a pureness of design.

By Cynthia Unninayar

C o v e r s t o r y

Maimo Zebini


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The brands continuing Canouan line, inspired bythe southern Antilles and the varied landscape ogreen hills, secluded bays, and white sand beaches,eatures such gems as white and browndiamonds, tsavorite, amethyst, prasiolite, andgarnet in simple and clean designs.Again drawing inspiration rom the marineenvironment are pieces in the Coral Reef collection. Invarious shapes, these jewels are covered with diamondpav or hand-fnished mother-o-pearl, highlightedwith pink sapphires, chalcedony, and other colouredgemstones.Who are the women who wear these original pieces?Zerbini describes the Opera Omnia woman as anindividual who is sel-confdent, dynamic, cosmopolitan,

and very oten a sel-purchaser. She is proud to reveal thedierent aspects o her personality.For its distribution, Opera Omnia works with select retailers. The brands strategyand co-marketing activities or 2011 are ocused on three pillars: working closelywith retailers to support them throughout their business development; having aconsistent communication plan to help increase awareness and visibility o theOpera Omnia brand with consumers; organizing local events to enhance theimportance o the brand, its message, and identity at the point o the sale.Opera Omnia will be present at BaselWorld in March at the prestigious Hall2.2, Booth E81, as well as at the exclusive Couture show in Las Vegas inJune where its latest seductive sonatas can be admired. (operajewels.com,opera-omnia.it, Tel: +1.305.534.1974)

07

s.Bath Collection

Canouan Collection

Coal reef Collection

saba Collection


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Jewelmer, the worlds leading producer of golden pearls, wasstarted in 1979 by the visionary French perliculture expert,

Jacques Branellec, and Filipino entrepreneur, ManueCojuangco. What sets this company apart from mostothers is not just the high quality of its living golden gems

and luxurious jewellery, but also the brands philosophy

and determination to protect the environment andpromote sustainability projects for the local population.Jewelmers jewellery is a perfect blend of European andAsian creativity, artistry, and craftsmanship, combining thelustrous golden pearlwhich needs no polishing orenhancements to release its inner glowwith 18K gold

diamonds, and coloured gemstones. Ranging from simplependants to elegant strands to sumptuous pieces worthy of the

red carpet, the jewellery of Jewelmer is like no other.Behind these extraordinary pearls lies thirty years of research and

experimentation to provide the best environment for the oysters,which allows them to create these golden organic gems. And, for oysters to

live and thrive, this environment means clean seawater at constant temperaturesBut, there are threats to this environment. Industrial pollution, erosion, and siltationput the health and lives of the oysters at risk, while destructive fishing methodsespecially those using dynamite and cyanidecan dramatically harm the fragilemarine ecosystem. And, along with global warming comes rising sea temperatureseven a two-degree change can prove fatal to the oysters.The pearl is an indicator of the health of the planet, says Jacques Branellecmanaging director of Jewelmer and avowed environmentalist. It records everynuance in the cleanliness of the water, every change in temperature, everydisturbance caused by a dynamite blast. If we preserve nature, we will continue tohave pearls. If mankind does not respect our environment, the pearl industry might

just vanish, as it has already done in some parts of the world.While Jewelmers management readily states that maintaining a clean environmentis in its best interest, the philosophy of protecting the environment goes muchdeeper and is deeply ingrained in the entire company. This social and environmenta

awareness is also seen in various initiatives that Jewelmer has undertakento teach the local population sustainable farming techniques for a betterlife, and to help stop the detrimental slash and burn activities, as well asdestructive fishing. The company also contributes to other environmentalprotection and education efforts in the local islands.A company with a conscience, Jewelmer will continue to help protectthe environment as well as provide the world with its beautiful eco-gold

creations. (www.Jewelmer.com)

The true beauty of the creations by Jewelmer is on two levels. Firstis the brands exquisite jewellery made from the natural golden

pearls that it cultivates in the ocean waters of the Philippines.Second is the brands active participation in protecting theenvironment.


ECO-GOLD BY JEWELMER

P R O F I L E

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I have not been lucky by chance. Carlos E.Ramonather o current chairman, Mr. Carlos

Ramonwhose personal motto was work, work, work, lived by

these words since he was 17 when he opened his rst workshopwith only ve employees. Today, the Ramon brand is recognizedglobally, with over 300 international and national customers.Its collections include a range o stylish jewellery, rom whimsica

animals to sinuous gold and diamond pieces to captivating andairy mesh circles and ovals. Ramon also varies its designs to meet

the requests o specic clients. Ater all, Carlos Ramon says, thecustomer is King.

There are no preconceived rules in the design o our jewellery, he continues. Wetry or acute artistic sensitivity and extraordinary creativity as well as a search orperection in each design. Harmony, balance, and sophistication are at the hearto each collectionas is Carlos Ramons devotion to excellence. But there is alsoa captivating sense o charm and un in many o his pieces.A ew years ago, the company introduced spherical elements into its designline-up, made up o a rened and airy mesh o circles in a variety o shapes.Later, came oval orms in a number o variations in rings, earrings, bangles, andpendants. Large, but light and airy, these gold, diamond, and gemstone pieces aredestined to the sel-purchaser who knows what she wants. And, or women whowant to be truly exclusive, Ramon also produces its pieces in platinum.In BaselWorld, Ramon will introduce 30 to 40 new pieces consisting o colouredrings using enamel and diamonds, fower motis, laser cut bracelets, and morecircle motis, all refecting high quality and distinctive designs, representative oRamons devotion to excellence. (www.ramon.es)

Barcelona-based Ramon occupies a prominent place among fne

European jewellers, producing high quality collections under its

own brand label as well as private collections or many o the fnestnames on the Place Vendme.

By Rayan Innue

Ramon Devotion

to excellence

Cars Ramn

P R o f i l e


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12

C O L O U R T R E N D S

Bapalal Keshavlal

Stephen Webster

Goldesign

Paula Crevosh

Tresor

Nary Manivong, using Pantone

Blue Curacao. The must-have

fashion item:One-shoulder

corset wrap dress in Sea

Foam, and the fisherman

pants in the diamond print

will look great with a Blackor Nude strapless wrap

corset top.

In the winter edition ofCIJ Trends & Colours,

our annual trends tracker guide, we talked

-

also are are the opinions of fashion designers

on their must-have fashion item.

Colours for Spring/Summer 2011

Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Colour Report Spring 2011.


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SWAROVSKI AG / DROESCHISTRASSE 15 / 9495 TRIESEN / LIECHTENSTEI

T +49 308 9677 7774 / [email protected]

WWW.SWAROVSKI-GEMS.C


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14


Nanette Lepore, using

Pantone Honeysuckle. The

must-have fashion

item: This spring is

about convertible

dressing jackets

that double as shirts,

outerwear as light as

a dress.

Valerio B

Elke Berr

Ramon

Mi Piaci

evan

el Sonia

Vianna

Charlotte Ronson, usingPantone Russet. The

must-have fashion

item:Spanish floral

spaghetti-strap dress

with ruffled handker-

chief hemline.


17/52ANTWERP | DUBAI | HONG KONG | JOHANNESBURG | MUMBAI | NEW YORK | SHANGHAI | TEL AVIV | TOKYO

Make every momentsparkle All over the world, Rosy Blue works with the most

qualified people and leading edge technology,

providing your business with precisely what

you need: A Trusted Source you can depend on.

Find out more at www.rosyblue.com

Browse, select

and order now: www.RosyBlueOnline.com

isit us at:aselworld - The World Watchnd Jewellery Showarch 24 - 31, 2011

all 3.0 - Stand C60


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Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Colour Report Spring 2011.lour Report pring 2011.


Tibi, using PantoneBeeswax. The must-have

fashion item: Its not

an item for spring, its

a head-to-toe look, an

Ochre top with match-

ing Ochre pant.Opera Omnia

Mathon Paris

Jolie B. Ray

asato

Cynthia GaleGeo Art

Stuller

Bogh-Art

Rebecca Taylor, usingPantone Coral Rose. The

must-have fashion

item:Our tea-length,

smocked-waist skirt,

in Kelly Green of

course!

Jolie B. Ray

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18


Ella Moss by Pamela Protzel

Scott, using Pantone Silver

Cloud. The must-have

fashion item: The maxi

skirt in silk chiffon

prints and washed

cotton voiles thissilhouette pairs nicely

with loose casual tees.

Toby Pomeroy

Green G

Skagen Denmark

Utopia

Jorg Heinz

Bastian

Tarditi

Bruner

Brosway

Tommy Hilfiger, using Pantone

Regatta. The must-have

fashion item:The tennis

skirt is a fresh, quirky take

on a staple American

pastime.


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Carlos Campos, using

Pantone Lavender.

The must-have

fashion item: Our

button down wrap

dress in Rosa.

Gumuchian

Antonini

Vendorafa

Rodney RaynerVianna

DanielaSwaebe

David Lin Jades

The Fifth Season

Monique Lhuillier, usingPantone Silver Peony.

The must-have

fashion item:A

shimmery cocktail

dress with ombre

sequins.

nna


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1. Flower brooch made in gold from a real flower by Vajra (Korea). 2. Gold and diamond ring by ManoelBernardes (Brazil). 3. Gemstone and diamond necklace by E & V Jewellery (Hong Kong). 4. South Seagolden pearl and diamond earrings by Jewelmer (Philippines). 5. Gemstone and diamond ring by Piaget(Switzerland). 6. Gemstone and diamond ring by Goldesign (Brazil). 7. Gemstone and diamond ring by GayFreres (France). 8. Shoe by Luciano Padovan (photo: AS). 9. Outfit by Dolce & Gabbana (photo: AS).

Flowers remain one of the popular themes in both

fashion and jewellery. From simple stylistic designs

to elaborate and realistic petals, stems, and leaves

made of colourful gemstones and diamonds, flower

creations add a touch of splendour to any outfit, no

matter what season of the year.

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8

T R E N D S & C O L O U R S

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SPRING

FLOWERS

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di

6

the popular themes in both

rom simple stylistic designs

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10. Ruby and diamond earrings by Green G (Hong Kong). 11. Gold, enamel, and diamond ring byMasriera (Spain). 12. Baroque South Sea pearl and diamond brooch by Assael International(USA). 13. Gemstone and diamond brooch by Unicorn (Hong Kong). 14. Gemstone brooch byZorab (Thailand). 15. Sapphire and diamond ring by Goldiaq (Hong Kong). 16. Diamond andtsavorite ring by Aspire Designs (Hong Kong). 17. Enamel and gold brooch by Hidalgo (USA).18. Outfit by Isaac Mizrahi (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).

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1010

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1010

d rinna

bandd

o USA

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1. Gold and diamond pendant by Ramon (USA). 2. Gold and diamond ring by Alberian&Aude (USA).3. Gemstone, gold, and diamond earrings by John Apel (USA). 4. Gold and diamond pendant by LucaCarati (Italy). 5. Gold and diamond brooch by Aspire Designs (Hong Kong). 6. Ebony, diamond, andgold bracelet by Raffaella Mannelli (Italy). 6. Gold cuff by Carla Amorim (Brazil). 7. Outfit byZigman (photo: Dubrovnik Fashion Week).

The open, airy, and lacy look is a popular trend both in

jewellery and fashion. Although a style in its own right,

lacy designs also offer a larger look with a lighter weight,

especially since prices of precious metals have soared

over the last few years. With designs inspired by nature,

architecture, geometry, and freeform shapes, the lacy

look is evoked in a variety of metals, gemstones, pearls,

diamonds, and even wood.

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LACY LOOKS

2

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1. Gold and diamond charm by Garel (France). 2. Charm ring in pink gold, white gold, and diamonds by Ramon (Spain).3. Gold, diamond, and enamel charm bracelet by Roberto Coin (Italy). 4. Onyx, silver, and enamel charm bracelet byLuxenter (Spain). 5. Silver and enamel Summer Lover charm bracelet by Ti Sento (The Netherlands). 6. Outfit byAlexandre Herchcovitch (photo courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).

Charms have undergone a number of evolutions

over the years, but their popular continues unabated.

Not only found on bracelets, these little jewels grace

earrings, rings, and even pendants. Perhaps their

greatest appeal is that they can be personalized,

evoking everything from love to lifestyle, from afavourite pet to a favourite vacation, in a variety

of metals and gemstones. They are indeed still

charming.


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6

STILL

CHARMING1

2

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7. Variety of charms on a leather bracelet by Ole Lynggaard (Denmark). 8. Charms and bracelet in 18K gold byCommelin (France). 9. Message charm bracelet by Heather Moore (USA). 10. Gold and diamond teddy bearcharm by Salvini (Italy). 11. Gold and enamel Dog charm bracelet by Rosato (Italy). 12. Doggie charm bracelet ingold and enamel by Meche (USA). 13. Outfit by Naeem Khan (photo courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).

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1. Black titanium and silver pendant by Mirella (USA). 2. Onyx and silver pendant by Scott Kay(USA). 3. Onyx and diamond earrings by Kenzo (France). 4. Black and white diamond earrings byJohn Apel (USA). 5. Blackened metal earrings by K.Brunini (USA). 6. Black jade carved dragonbelt buckle by David Lin Jades (USA). 7. Outfit by Brioni (photo: Tashkent Fashion Week).

Mysterious, sensual, and sophisticated,

black continues to be one of the basic

colours for 2011, whether in the little

black dress or in the little black jewel. In

jewellery, black is interpreted by pearls,

diamonds, sapphires, onyz, jet, jade, and

a number of blackened metals.


3

44

5

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BLACK IS THENEW BLACK

1

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a

4

ene el t s.

5

7

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8. Onyx and turquoise pendant by Syna (USA). 9. Onyx and diamond earrings by Ivanka Trump (USA).10. Black Tahitian pearl and diamond earring by Assael International (USA). 11. Black diamond andgold ring by Garavelli (Italy). 12. Tungsten carbide ring by Frederick Goldman (USA). 13. Black andwhite diamond ring by Diamond Shadows (USA). 14. Ceramic and diamond ring by Etienne Perret(USA). 15. Outfit by Carlos Miele (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).

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1. Diamond, rock crystal, and gold pendant by Casato (Italy). 2. Diamond and South Seawhite pearl earrings by Autore (Australia). 3. Jade and diamond pendant by David LinJades (USA). 4. Pearl and diamond earrings by Mathon Paris (France). 5. Agate andgold ring by Ramon (Spain). 6. Shoes by Tosca Blu (photo: AS). 7. Outfit by IsaacMizrahi (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).

In the strict sense of the term, white is not

a colour but the presence of all colours

combined, giving it a complete energy.

With its cool qualities, white is thought

to provide clarity and purity. In jewellery,

elegant white designs are created with jade, agate, gold, silver, pearls, ceramic,

diamonds, and quartz, among others.


3

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5

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PURE

WHITE

1

2 2

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8. Diamond and South Sea pearl earrings by Staurino (Italy). 9. Quartz, gold, and diamond ring byBruner (Brazil). 10. Agate and gold earrings by Goldiaq (Hong Kong). 11. White ceramic, blackdiamond, and gold ring by Leaderline (Italy). 12. Octea Sport Ultra White watch by Swarovski(Austria). 13. White ceramic and coloured diamond ring by Etienne Perret (USA). 14. Outfit byChristophe Guillarme (photo: Christophe Guillarme).

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1. Multi-coloured gemstone ring by Isabelle Langlois (France). 2. Mutli-coloured gemstone anddiamond ring by HH Gems (Hong Kong). 3. Multi-coloured sapphire and diamond necklace byEclat Jewels (USA). 4. Multi-coloured sapphire, pearl, and diamond earrings by GuilhermeDuque (Brazil). 5. Multi-coloured gemstone bracelet by Tresor (USA). 6. Outfit by TsumoriChisato (photo: Tashkent Fashion Week).

Nothing evokes Spring like a rainbow of coloursboth in fashion and in jewellery. From simple tosophisticated, jewellery designers from aroundthe world offer a multitude of wonderful and

creative colour combos.


3

44

5

6

COLOUR

COMBOS

1

2

Nothing evo ring like a rainbow of colourses Spboth in fa nd in jewellery. From simple toionsophisticate , jewellery designers from aroundthe world offer a multitude of wonderful and

creative colour combos.

2

1. M loured gemstone ring by Isabelle Langlois (France). 2. Mutli-colouon ring y ems ong ong . . u i-co oure sapp ire an iamon nec a e

5

4

ulti-co

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7. Multi-coloured gemstone and diamond earrings by Lorenz Baumer (France). 8. Gemstone andgold pendant by Marco Bicego (Italy). 9. Multi-coloured gemstone pendant by Yael Designs(USA). 10. Multi-coloured gemstone and diamond ring by Jewellery Theatre (Russia). 11. Multi-coloured gemstone and pearl earrings by Elena Martinico (Italy). 12. Chair by Cappellini (photo:AS). 13. Outfit by Agatha Ruiz De La Prada (photo: Cibeles Madrid).

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1. Sapphire and diamond Jewels Verne flying fish brooch by Stephen Webster (Britain). 2. Multi-coloured gemstonebrooch from Les Voyages Extraordinaires by Van Cleef & Arpels (France). 3. Opal, diamond, and gold brooch byOscar Heyman (USA). 4. Multi-coloured gemstone and pearl brooch by Autore (Australia). 5. Gold seahorse charm byCommelin (France). 6. Diamond and pearl brooch by Assael International (USA). 7. Ruby, silver, and gold ring byManya & Roumen (USA). 8. Outfit by Dolores Cortes (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).

Among the themed jewellery collections, the marine

environment is one of the most popular, evoking

fish, octopus, snails, and other creatures of the

deep crafted in a variety of gemstones, metals, and

diamonds. Whether representing realistic creations,

playful pieces, or stylized interpretations, they are

certainly wonderful underwater treasures.


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UNDERWATER

TREASURES

1

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9. Sapphire and diamond charm by Pippo Perez (Italy). 10. Diamond and ruby manta ray ring by AspireDesigns (Hong Kong). 11. Enamel and diamond pendant by Aaron Basha (USA). 12. Multi-coloured gemstoneand diamond brooch by Lorenz Baumer (France). 13. Multi-colored gemstone and gold ring by Misis (Italy).14. Opal, diamond, emerald, and gold brooch by Oscar Heyman (USA). 15. Outfit by Gottex (photo: MercedesBenz Fashion Week NYC). Background underwater image taken by Lornie Mueller, Lithos Jewelry (USA).

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The 2011 edition of the SIHH definitely saw a change in mood from last yearAfter all the uncertainties of the previous couple of years, optimism was the wordof the day as the 19 exhibiting brands showcased their wares to retailers fromaround the world. In fact, the shows organizer and owner of many of the exhibitingbrands, Geneva-based Richemont, reported that its retail sales increased 23percent at constant exchange rates, excluding acquisitions, for the last quarter of

2010, and that its growth was broad-based, with the highest rate reported inthe Asia-Pacific region.

Yet, retailers came not only from Asia (20 percent) but mainly fromEurope (60 percent), with fewer numbers from North and SouthAmerica (12 percent) and the Middle East (8 percent) to see the

latest products of the participating brands (A.Lange & Shne, AlfredDunhill, Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, JeanRichardGirard Perregaux, Greubel Forsey, IWC, Jaeger LeCoultre, MontblancOfficine Panerai, Parmigiani Fleurier, Piaget, Ralph Lauren, Richard

Mille, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef & Arpels).While optimism was the key word in terms of mood, the major trends in terms

of product were minimalism and classicism with many brands thinking thinthis year. For a detailed explanation of these current trends in fine timekeepingat the SIHH, please see our sister publication, Europa Star, issue 1.11, whichdetails many of the brands and their latest models. For this article, however, wetake a look at those brands that (while they also offered important neoclassicmodels of prestige watchmaking) included examples of wonderfully creative high

jewellery timepieces, studded with diamonds and coloured gems or masterfullydecorated with enamel and other artistic crafts.While certainly a champion of the thin movement, Piaget also producesextraordinary bejewelled timepieces as well as beautiful jewellery. Continuingits Limelight Garden Party theme, theGeneva brand evokes

The private and prestigious Salon International de la HauteHorlogerie (SIHH) ended its 21st edition in January on a veryoptimistic note in Geneva, with trends in watches that favouredmostly a return to minimalism and classicism. Some brandshowever, also offered amazing bejewelled timepieces.


SIHH 2011

OPTIMISM AND

NEOCLASSICISM

34

The 2011 edition of the SIAfter all the

The private and prestiHorlogerie (SIHH) endeoptimistic note in Genevamostly a return to minimhowever, also offered ama

By Cynth

SI

OPT

EO

mstone and diamond necklace in Les Voyages

naires collection by Van Cleef & Arpels.

diamond, and emerald ring in the Limelightarty collection by Piaget.

Diamond-set quartz watch in Cartiers Mille et une heures collection.

d watch set withamonds, sapphires,

emeralds in Les

Extraordinaires collection

eef & Arpels.

M A R K E T P L A C E


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the brands booth convincingly reproduceda delightul and relaxing seaside resort inthe Hamptons on Long Island in New York. Inkeeping with this theme, the brand presenteda contemporary interpretation o two o its mostcelebrated collections, the Capeland and Linea,

along with new and more stylish examples o Classima,all evoking Baume & Merciers new dictum: Life is aboutmoments. Among these moments are lovely contemporary

jewellery pieces in the Linea line.Richard Mille continues the use o coloured gemstones in certain models, butthis year, he does so in a rather provocative ashion. The Richard Mille TourbillonRM 026, in a limited series o 15, eatures a diamond-set white gold case thatharbours two snakes writhing in and around the tourbillon movement while holding itin place. The serpents are made o rubies, emeralds, and diamonds set in white goldwith a red coral tongue. Why snakes? Serpents in mythology have complex rolesthat can be either good or evil. In connection with the positive properties o the blackonyx base plate, they however take on a protective role, says the brand. RichardMille also makes dierent versions o the coupled snakes, including other colouredgems, engraved stones, or enamelled bodies. Undoubtedly, this piece is an elegantway to unite the powers o Nature and the ingenuity o prestige timekeeping.Other brands at the SIHH also showcased beautiul jewellery versions o theirmain collections, such as Audemars Piguet with its elegant diamond-set JulesAudemars Selfwinding models, Girard-Perregaux with its lovely Vintage 1945Ladycrated in pink gold set with diamonds and its graceul Cats Eye pieceswith their sensual curves, the sparkling all-diamond-pav case o Ralph LaurensStirrup Diamond Linkwatch, set with more than 1,500 diamonds, with a totalo 12 dierent sized stones, and the bejewelled COSC-certied Excalibur LadyJewelleryby Roger Dubuis.

As these exquisite examples demonstrate, ne jewellery and ne watchmakingcan come together to create ne jewellery watches.

Ralph Lauren Sirrup Diamond Link wach,

se wih more han 1,500 diamonds.

36

M A R k E t P L A C E

Cariers tourbillon and Crocodile wach.

Vinage 1945 Lady diamond wach in

pink gold by Girard-Perregaux.

Richard Mille tourbillon RM 026, feauring wo bejewelled snakes

wrapped around he ourbillon movemen.

Leopard moif in Cariers Grea tradiion

of Arisic Crafs wach collecion.

Jewellery version of Audemars Pigues

Jules Audemar Selfwinding wach.

ery version in he LineaBaume & Mercier.


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renewing its own exhibition concept, andlaunching new initiatives with the intentiono bringing excellent Made in Italy products

to markets worldwide. This ambitious plan isintended to conrm Fiera di Vicenza as not only a central elemento the worldwide exhibition system with particular reerence to the

jewellery sector, but also as a place o aggregation or Italian excellenceand as a generator o cultural contents, ideas, and visions capable ooering creative thrusts to businesses.It is no secret that over the last ew years, the Italian (and global) jewellerysector has suered, mostly due to a drop in demand and an increase in thecost o gold. Encouraging signs o recovery or Italian jewellery exports camein 2010, and the trend seems to be continuing in 2011. To take advantageo this trend, the FDV 2011/15 project will ocus on the overall renovationo the exhibition space, a powerul web presence, important

collateral events, the creation o a real reerence network,and the establishment o new inrastructures and airormats aimed at specic market segments. A changeo route is necessary or a sector in prooundevolution whose key words are coherence andconcreteness, stated Fiera di Vicenza chairman,Roberto Ditri.Corrado Facco, the air director added, Ouraim is to become the main point o reerencein Europe or jewellery alongside Basel andat the same time back up the air events withinitiatives that animate and stimulate the companies

and the town: shows, events, and installations to involve thesurrounding territory as is the case in the most modern air eventsall over the world.Another element in the airs uture activities is its active collaborationwith international organizations such as the United Nations Institute orTraining and Research, CIBJO, and the Responsible Jewellery Council topromote corporate social responsibility and ethical mining and manuacture.The guarantee o ethics along the entire supply line is a specic requesto consumers, representing a strong element o the marketing mix and aundamental competitive edge, said air organizers.

Design Directions

The Nature theme was one o the main trends at this years air, with snakes,butterfies, fowers, leaves, and the marine environment playing key roles.Colour was again prominent, continuing its trend in both gemstones andenamel, along with various colours o gold. Diamond jewellery, both white andancy colours, remains a staple o Italian creativity, while silver has becomethe new gold as its glacial tonality is used to create elegant and ashionabledesigns. Freeorm, organic, and textured looks continues to gain ground whilerough stones, both diamonds and coloured gems, namely sapphires andemeralds, evoke a return to the natural environment. Lacy openwork pieceswere seen in many collections, oering impressive pieces with lighter weightso precious metals.

39

Gston and gold Boul rings by chinto.

Blak diaond and pink gold

bralt by mattia cilo.

Diaond and gold Daphn ring b

Gold and gston ring by Nanis.

enal and silvr bad bralt b

Diaond and gold Blooing brooh by Zydo.

Gold and rutilatd quartz ring by Giovan


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Ownership Changes

Richline Group, Inc.,a wholly-owned

subsidiary oUSA-based

Berksh i reHathaway Inc.,

announcedthe acquisition oArezzo-based Rosato Srl. This is a great opportunity or mybrand to grow and expand globally. I am sure we will be able to

let the real Italian jewellery design be known and appreciated,stated Simona Rosato. Richline president, Dave Meleski, added,Simona Rosato and her team are the most innovative group in

Italy and, with our fnancial support, they will be able to againocus on product and brand innovation. Rosato will once againexcite the market and enable their loyal customers to expand theirown market share.

On another note, Gitanjali Gems Ltd, Indias largest jewellery retailerwhich had purchased Italian brand Valente Milano last September,

announced the acquisition o a 90-percent stake in Milan-based Giantti ItaliaS.R.L., through its Dubai-based wholly owned subsidiary Gitanjali VenturesDMCC. Its press release also indicated that it would pay about $11 million orthe Italian brands Stean Haner, IO Si, Porrati, and Nouvelle Bague groupedunder the BLU Srl umbrella, with unds going to their creditors, and would injectanother $10 million over a year into the companies. The brands were previously

owned by now bankrupt DIT Group, a unit o Dubai debt-laden jewellery groupDamas International.

Gem World and GlamroomNow staple components o the VicenzaOro scene,the two sections o Gem World and Glamroom

grouped together gem dealers and jewellerydesigners, respectively, who showcased awide variety o products. Among the manyinteresting Glamroom participants was

returning German brand Bastian, oeringa selection o modern silver creations set

with diamonds, and Italian brand EcoJewelshowcasing pieces made rom enamel and precious,

recycled materials (gold and silver rom old jewellery and manuacturing

scraps). This year, EcoJewel also eaturedelegant jewellery made rom recycled gemstaken rom jewellery that was destinedto be melted or dismantleda perectmatch or the brands recycled goldand silver.Vicenza will again be in the globalspotlight or fne jewellery at itsspring air, May 21 to 25, 2011.

(www.vicenzafera.it)

lay god nka by Dania Ni.

40

m a r k e t p l a c e

uff by Dml.

ebony, god, and diaond ba

by raffaa manni.

God sh ing by

th Fifh Sason.

mio-osai, gson, and god cupoa ing by l Sibi.

Gson and yd god aings by eoJw.

Naua sapphi nka by Yv.


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During the month o February, the southern Arizonacity o Tucson became the prime destination orgemstone and jewellery buyers and designers.The shows kicked o with the prestigious by-invitation-only Centurion jewellery event, whichtook place in an elegant resort hotel. Then,AGTA, GJX, GLDA, and AGGJS opened theirdoors to thousands o gem dealers and buyersas well as an increasing number o jewellerydesignersrom around the globe. While theseshows were limited to the trade, the rest o thecity opened hotel rooms, tents, trailers, and just abouteverything else to the public, where thousands o collectors, connoisseurs,and the simply curious could shop or a wide variety o gemstones, minerals,ossils, sculptures, and just about anything else related to the world o stones.

Centurion, Laid-Back Luxury

Celebrating its tenth anniversary this year was Centurion,a show that we could very well categorize as Laid-BackLuxury. In an ambiance that was warm, intimate, and relaxed,retailers were able to examine and purchase a wide varietyo products rom Centurions upmarket brands. And, itseems that purchase they did, this year, as the recoverygets underway. Exhibitor and retailer reports coming

throughout and ater Centurion 2011 reectedgreat satisaction with this years event qualityand results, stated Centurion president Howard

Hauben, adding that show attendance wasstrong, and up 36 percent over the 2010show. It was also announced that next years

show will move to a location in the Phoenix area.Now in its second year, Centurions EmergingDesigner contest produced six winners who weregiven display space at the show. They representeddiverse acets o fne jewellery design rom aroundthe world, and oered retailers a look at newapproaches and new aces. This year, Centurionalso held its frst Design Awards Competition, judgedby retailers rom all over the USA who voted or morethan 80 exhibitor entries in 11 categories. The calibre ocreativity o each entry was simply amazing, said Centurion PresidentHoward Hauben, who added that it will become an annual event.

While many parts of the USA were buried in snow, jewellery brandsand gem dealers came to the desert city of Tucson to showcase

their products at a variety of events.


Jewels in the Desert

42

Zutanite and

diamond earrings

by Rhonda Faber

Green.

oured gemstone earring by Bearri.

Agat

and diamond

endant by S&R

Designs

Zutanite and diamond ring

by Erica Courtney.

M A R k E t p l A C E

and god ring by Centurion Emerging Designer, Wiiam Beack

Diamond and eco-god

Gobo earrings by

Garavei.


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Lots of Colour

In spite o the weather issues in much o the USA,the AGTA air reported a fve-percent increase inbuyer attendance rom last year. It was nice to seean increase in trafc, but the real success o the showwas the atmosphere on the show oor, with a signifcantupswing in buying activity, stated Douglas K. Hucker,AGTA CEO. Buying was reportedly strong or fnishedproducts as well as loose coloured stones as retailers

realize the importance o adding colour to their productline-up as a way to improve proftability.Good interest and trafc was also seen in the Spectrumo Design Pavilion, outside o the main AGTA halls. PaulaCrevoshay reported that this shows trafc was higher thanever in the past, declaring that The show proved to be the mostsuccessul rom the last 30 years.More international in nature, the GJX housed a wide range ogem dealers, jewellery manuacturers, small brands, and artisans,as well as national pavilions or many nations such as Germany and Brazil,among many others.

43

Mikado diamond and god braceets by A.l

Rutiated quartz a

diamond earrings

patinum and ear-shaed diamond (34.22 cts)neckace by Uneek Jewery (winner, Centurions

patinum category).

Siver neckace in the Veritas

coection by Franco pianegonda.

patinum and diamo

Norman Siverman (

Centurions Brida ca

Matching diamond wedding bands by Furrer-Jacot.

Yeow and white diamond braceet

by Godstein Diamonds.


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In terms of pearls, the traditional strands ofall colours were in abundance, as werelariats mixed with gems and diamonds.A few necklaces of rare conch

pearls were seen at both Centurion

and the gem shows. Among the moreunusual pearls that attracted attention were thevery lightweight Souffl pearls, so-named by JackLynch of Sea Hunt Pearls. He explained that these

large freshwater pearls are half the weight of the normalfreshwater variety because they are hollow. He suggeststhat the pearl growers probably placed something in the pearl

sacperhaps some sort of mudthat would dissolve and break down duringthe growth process, thus leaving a hollow but sturdy lighter weight pearl.

Just about every colour, size, shape,and cut of stone could be seenat these Tucson shows. While no

specific trend or colour was observed, there was anotable increase in rough and sliced coloured gems, from

emeralds to sapphires to diamonds, which designers will bequick to add to their natural finished jewellery collections that continue

to gain in popularity. Rutilated quartz in all colours was a favourite ofmany jewellers, as were the various hues of spinel and tourmaline.

The Turkish-mined zultanite was the focus of much attention atCenturion where a number of well-known jewellery designers used

this enigmatic colour-changing variety of the mineral diaspore in arange of beautiful creations.

44

M A R K E T P L A C E

Souffl pearl necklace by

Sea Hunt, diamond clasp by

Lornie Mueller, Lithos Jewelry.

Necklace in argentium sterling

silver, forged and woven, with

garnets by Centurion EmergingDesigner, Valerie Ostenak.

Golden pearl, diamond, and gold earrings by

Centurion Emerging Designer, Kavant.

Raw diamond earrings

by Todd Reed.

Paraiba and green tourmaline

earrings by Golconda.

Conch pearl necklace by Tara.

Onyx and diamond ring by Umane.


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The Show

The IIJS Signature Show is particularly appreciated or its ocus on preciousjewellery, loose diamonds and coloured gemstones and its recent move rom Goato Mumbai has allowed the organisers to introduce new eatures to the show. Anew Signature Club section is specially dedication to companies manuacturing

high-end jewellery, and a new International Pavilion exhibits internationadesigners rom around the world. Mumbai now represents the jewelleryhub o India with two shows in January and August and confrms Indiasplace as a major player in the gem & jewellery industry.

Exports up an impressive 15.52 percent

The Indian jewellery industry showed a remarkable increase in exports in 2010with fgures up 15. 52 percent (US$ 37,118.42 million) compared to 2009, whichwas supported by a strong domestic market. In a ace-to-ace interview, Mr. RajivJain, Chairman o the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC)and Mr. Sanjay Kothari, GJEPC Vice Chairman underlined that India embracescompetition that will in turn help to encourage the Indian manuacturers tocontinue to increase their quality. I we are good enough, we ear no other country,explains Jain. The difcult economic situation had a positive eect as it obliged

more innovation and more creation. The trend is less gold and more stones, thejewellery looks bigger and is less expensive, he continues. Both Jain and Kothariare very confdent in the role that the GJEPC can play on the world market, adding

The IIJS Signature 2011 opened its doors in its newMumbai location this year for the 4th edition of thisrenowned international show. CIJ Trends & ColoursAlexandra Montandon was there to follow events anddiscover new jewellery trends.

By Alexandra Montandon

IIJS SIgnature 2011

Show report

m a r k e t p l a c e

46


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that the growing community will help the global market and as Jain explains,As long as women are on earth, jewellery will always be worn.

New initiatives

One o the Council initiatives is to bring together a pool o Indian artisans inworkshops who will train under the guidance o international specialists. Thegoal is to help these artisans to complement their traditional crats with morecutting edge techniques.Exhibitors

IIJS Signature 2011 registered 400 exhibitors with approximately 800 boothsthis year. Delegations rom the UK, UAE, Thailand, Libya, Vietnam, Azerbaijan,Uzbekistan and Myanmar were all present. The eedback rom the exhibitorswas extremely positive; they all ound the show to be a very good platorm tomeet customers. Some remarked that the new Mumbai show was moreexclusive, with ewer people in the halls, but that there was ar moretime to sit down and discuss with retailers, which they appreciated.

India Show at BaselWorld 2011An India Show will take place at BaselWorld 2011 with 60Indian manuacturers in attendance. The Indian governmenthas oered its complete support to the GJEPC and its presence atBaselWorld as part o a national government campaign to promoteIndian culture at the global level.

BaselWorld will have a taste o India this year with Indian cuisine in therestaurant in Hall 6, traditional dance rom dierent regions o India perormedin ront o Hall 1, and a presentation o high-end jewellery pieces in the IndiaGallery in Hall 2. So i you didnt make it to Mumbai this year, dont miss aselection o Indias fnest artistic creations at BaselWorld.

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A. Link 43Aaron Basha 33Agatha Ruiz De La Prada 31Alberian & Aude 22Alexandre Herchcovitch 24Alpilex CIIIAntonini 19Aspire Designs 11, 21, 22, 33

Assael Intl CII, 1, 21, 27, 32Audemars Piguet 36Autore 28, 32Bangkok Fair 41Bapalal Keshavlal 23, 9, 12Bastian 18, 38BCBG Max Azira 23Bellari 42BK Jewellery 17Bliss 39Bogh-Art 16Bosway 18Brioni 26Bruner 18, 29Cappellini 31Carla Amorim 22

Carlos Campos 19Carlos Miele 27Cartier 34-36Casato 16, 28, 39Charlotte Ronson 14Chimento 39Chisato 30Christophe Guillarme 29Commelin 25, 32

Couture Show 45Cynthia Gale 16Daniel Espinosa 23Daniela Neri 40Daniela Swaebe 19David Lin Jades 19, 26, 28Diamond Shadows 27DML 40

Dolce & Gabbana 20E&V Jewellery 20Eclat Jewels 30EcoJewels 40Elena Martinico 31Ella Moss 18Erica Courtney 42Etienne Perret 27, 29Fope 38Franco Pianegonda 43Frederick Goldman 27Furrer-Jacot 43Garavelli 27, 42Garel 24Gay Frres 20Geen G 18, 21

Giovanni Ferraris 39Girard Perregaux 36GJEPC CIVGolconda 44Goldesign 12, 20Goldiaq 21, 29Goldstein Diamonds 43Gottex 33Guilherme Duque 30

Gumuchian 3, 19Heather Moore 25HH Gems 30Hidalgo 21ICA Congress Brazil 37IIJS 46-47Isaac Mizrahi 21, 28Isabelle Langlois 30

Ivanka Trump 27Jewellery Theatre 23, 31Jewelmer 5, 8, 20JJ Jewels 38John Apel 22, 26Jolie B. Ray 16Jorg Heinz 18K. Brunini 26Kavant 44Kenzo 26Le Sibile 40Leaderline 29LeVian 23Lithos Jewelry 33, 44Lorenz Baumer 31, 33Lornie Mueller 33

Luca Carati 22Luciano Padovan 20Luxenter 24Manoel Bernardes 20Manya & Roumen 32Marco Bicego 31Masriera 21Mathon Paris 16, 28Mattia Cielo 39

Meche 25Metalsmith Sterling 23Mi Piaci 14Mirella 26Misis 33Monique Lhuillier 19Naeem Khan 25Nanette Lepore 14

Nanis 39Nary Manivong 12Norman Silverman 43Ole Lynggaard 23, 25Opera Omnia CI, 6-7, 16Oscar Heyman 32-33Paula Crevoshay 12Piaget 20, 34-35Pippo Perez 33Raaella Mannelli 22, 40Ralph Lauren 36Ramon 10, 14, 22, 24, 28Rebecca Taylor 16Rhonda Faber Green 42Richard Mille 36Roberto Coin 24

Rodney Rayner 19Rosato 25Rosy Blue 15Sakgen Denmark 18Salvini 25Scott Kay 26Sevan 14Staurino 29Stephen Webster 12, 32

Stuller 16Suna Bros 43Swarovski 13, 29Syna 27Talento 38Tara 44Tarditi 18The Fith Season 19, 4

Ti Sento 24Tibi 16Toby Pomeroy 18Todd Reed 44Tommy Hilfger 18Tosca Blu 28Tresor 12, 30Tsumori 30Umane 44Uneek Jewelry 43Unicorn 21Utopia 18Vajra 20Valerie Ostenak 44Valerio B 14Van Clee & Arpels 32,

Vendoraa 19Vianna 14, 19William Belack 42Yael Designs 23, 31Yael Sonia 14Yvel 40Zgman 22Zorab 21Zydo 39

e d i t o r i a l & a d v e r t i s e r s i n d e x

NICHE: The Show is an exclusive

collection of artist-designers from

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at PLANET HOLLYWOOD - JUNE 4-6, 2011LAS VEGAS JEWELRY WEEK

June 4-6, 2011Planet Hollywood CelebrityBallroom (Mezzanine Level)

REGISTER TODAY!Complimentary registrationfor qualified retailers.

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+1.410.889.2933 ext. 272

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Alpilex Diamond MFG. BVBAPelikaanstraat 78, Room 604-605, Box 140

2018 Antwerpen - Belgium

[email protected]

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WHEREVER, WHENEVER AND AT THE MOST ATTRACTIVE PRICES

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