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Joe’s Valley

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  • Joe’s Valley

  • The Flu sits on a west facing hillside and doesn’tget as much sun as the other areas. The stone tends tohold moisture much longer and becomes brittle whenwet. So please refrain form climbing in the early springand after storms. Do your part and help keep Joe’s Val-ley free from trash, tick marks and fecal matter. Nevercamp or build fires under the boulders! The future ofclimbing in Joe’s valley all depends on the impact wemake to the environment. Make it a positive impact bydoing everything possible to leave no trace! Always becourteous and show respect to the locals and farmers!Thank You!

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  • Start low on rail. Continue upthe face on good pockets. Righthand side-pull, left hand to thelip and mantel.

    Sit start on low jug. Big movesto good holds. Slopey top out.

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    Start on small edgesand use the arête toclimb the slab.

    Sit start on good edge,cross left hand to thepinch and right handto the lip.

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    Stand start on good holds. Climb up the center of theboulder using horizontal slashes. Gaston the verticalslash to sloping crimps at the lip.

  • Joe’s Valley

    Follow good holds to the lip.Mantel to a slab finish.

    Sit start and follow the goodedges to the lip, bump lefthand out left to a good slop-er, right hand to slight arêteand mantel to a slab finish.

    Sit start and climb out rightto a slab finish.

    Start matched on low jugand climb to the top.This boulder sits on top ofCA Death Bomb.

    3

    Sit start low. Traversethe lip going right andmantel.

    Sit start on jug, bigmove to the lip andmantel.

    Sit start on jug, bigmove for to the lipand mantel.

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    Cody Allen Climbing CA Death Bomb

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  • Sit start on rail, make a big move or campus to thelip and mantel.

    Sit start on jug, climbstraight up bulge on goodedges

    Joe’s Valley

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  • Joe’s Valley

    Sit start with left hand pinch andright hand gaston. Follow thepinches and side-pulls. Links intoRaw Hide.

    Sit start on jugs. Right hand topocket left hand to side-pull. Bigright hand move to good edge.Easy mantel.V7 variation: Start left hand onlower under-cling and right handpocket.

    Sit start left hand jug and righthand under-cling. Bump frommono to the lip with left hand.Flip left hand into crack, right tocrimp and left hand to pocket.

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  • Joe’s Valley

    Sit start on crimps.Bump right hand up tothe sloper rail andmatch. Bump righthand twice to a slopingpinch. Left hand to thegaston, right hand to apinch at the lip.

    Sit start on crimps.Bump right hand upthe sloper rail andmatch. Follow the jugsout right finish on theslab using good edges.

    Stand start on good lefthand. Bump right handout to side-pull jug andcontinue up good holdsto a big rail at the lip,avoiding huecos. Exitleft.

    Start on flake and climbto the big sloper rail. Lefthand side pull to big jugsat the lip.

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  • Joe’s Valley

    Start with right hand and right heel in hueco, left hand starts infinger bucket. Move right hand to the side pull and make a bigleft hand move to the jug. Easy mantel.

    Start matched on the lowest pocket. Bump up the pockets to aleft hand gaston on the slanted crimp rail. Match and continueup the jugs to an easy mantel.

    Start on #2, move left hand to big pocket, right hand to a small-pocket and left hand to a side-pull under-cling. Big right handmove to a pocket left hand to a crimp. Slap arête with righthand and finish on the giant jug.

    Stand start on good holds and climb straight up on good dishesand slashes.

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    4

  • Joe’s Valley

    Sit start matched on rail with right heel-hook. Climb the crimps to agood right hand side-pull. Move left hand to the lip and match. Bigjug out left.

    Stand start on good holds. Climb the amazing swoop to the big jugsat the lip. Heel-hook the horn for an easy mantel.

    Sit start with left hand on the side-pull and right hand gaston. Moveright hand to small crimp and make a big left hand throw to a side-pull crimp. Cross right hand over the left to a good edge and dyno tothe sloper. Links to Candy Paint.

    Sit start on jug. Cross right hand to sloping ledge and move left handto side-pull. Heel hook sloping ledge and grab small crimp with theleft hand. Bump right hand to good crimp and dyno for the rail. Lefthand to the triangular crimp and mantel.

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    3 4 5 67

  • Joe’s Valley

    Sit start on jug. Follow goodholds and pockets to the lip.

    Start on jug. Cross right handto good hold, bump left handtwice to the block pinch. Moveright hand to the jug, easymantel. Sit start for stylepoints.

    Start matched on low side-pulljug. Flow through the sequenceof jugs like you're Shab’ShabbaRanks!

    Founder and developerCody Allen climbing Candy Paint

    Developer RyanShilton crimping down on Glock 9Handy.

  • Joe’s Valley

    Start on the rail, bump left hand to under-cling and fallow thegood edges through the cave. Continue up the slab to safety.

    Start on the rail and climb straight up using sloping edges.

    Start on opposing side-pulls to the left and right of the stoneorifice. Right hand to crimp cross to a left hand crimp. Snag thejug with the right hand. Follow the jugs up the slab.

    Start on the big jug rail, Right hand moves to gill. Heel-hookwith the left leg climb and bump up the slopers along the arêtewith the left.

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  • Joe’s Valley

    Start left hand on a weird pinch and right hand on the side pull.Slap right hand to the sloping rail match with left hand bump outright to the good holds.

    Sit start on low crimps. Big right hand move to sloping crimp.Bump the left hand up crimps to the pocket and move right handto the lip.

    Flow up the cracks to the top.

    1 23

  • Joe’s Valley

    Sit start in the pod, move out to the lip and mantle

    Start low matched on the sloper rail. Move right hand to a side-pulland left leg knee bar on the round knob. Cross through with righthand to a good side-pull, then cross left over right to triangular pinch.Mantel inside notch or exit left

    Sit start at #4, climb out on the bulge and make a big left hand moveto a side-pull crimp. Right hand moves to a two finger pocket thenbump left hand out the the rail and dyno for the lip.

    Sit start and climb out on the bulge. Big left hand move to a goodpinch. Match the lip and traverse left for a stylin’ finish.

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    3 4

  • Joe’s Valley

    Sit start matched on a jug. Climb straight up the face using goodholds.

    Sit start on jug, move up and right through perfect edges. Linksto #3.

    Sit start both hands on crimp rail. Cross the right hand to sloperand move left hand to the under-cling and bump right hand to agood rail and match.

    1 2 3

  • Joe’s Valley

    Stand start with left hand on a side-pull and right hand in lowbucket. Dyno to the lip.

    Sit start matched in the low pocket. Move left hand to side-pulland cross over with the right hand to a good pinch with a thumbpocket. Left hand moves to the lip.

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  • Joe’s Valley

    Sit start with left hand in a jug and right handon a side-pull crimp. Bump the right hand tothe next side pull and fall into the sloper pinchwith the left hand. Right hand moves to goodpinch and bump left hand to a gaston. Snagthe jug rail out right and mantel.

    1

  • Joe’s Valley

    Sit start and climb up the break. Links to #2.

    Sit start matched on a tufa. Move right hand to a crimp and lefthand to an under-cling. Heel hook out right and go to the cres-cent with the right hand and match. Mantel out right.

    Sit start and climb up tufa. Match on the crimp rail, bump withthe left hand to the small crimp. Heel hook out right and mantelup to a small edge. Slab finish.

    Sit start on tufa, use the under-cling to get the left hand crimp.Move right hand to gaston and go to the lip with the left hand.

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  • Sit start low with left hand on the under-clingand right hand on the crimp. Bump the lefthand to a sloper edge and gaston the jug railwith right hand. Climb into the hueco using theunder-cling. Left hand moves to the pocket atthe lip, right hand crosses over to a crimp andbump the left hand out to mantel.

    Joe’s Valley

  • Joe’s Valley

    Followthe sequence ofperfect crimpsup the middle ofthe face. Bigthrow for the lip!

    Start low matched onjug. Climb up the arêteand around the bulgeusing the left hand slop-ers and the right handside pulls.

    Stand start on goodholds with a high foot.Climb up the face.

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  • Joe’s Valley

    1 2

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    4 5

    6

    Start #2 and traverse the lip. Finish on the mantle of #4.

    Start on crimps and dyno to the dish at the lip.

    Sit start on the tufa. Left hand moves to a side pull and right hand to a jug.Move left hand to the crimp on the face, then go with right or left hand tothe dish at the lip depending on height.

    Sit start matched on tufa, big throw with the left hand to a good tufapinch. Right hand moves to the right tufa. Match on the left tufa and bumpleft hand to the jug. Right hand moves up the rail and place a knee-bar inthe notch. Match hands and bump right hand high to the slanted rail, lefthand to the lip and mantel. V8 variation: Stand start on the jug.

    Sit start low on tufa, big throw with the left hand to a good tufa pinch.Bring right hand up the right tufa and bump left to the jug. Cross the righthand through to the fatty feature. Match hands and follow the crimps upthe face. V7 variation: Stand start on fatty feature.

    Sit start on tufa using opposing holds. Climb the arête usingside-pulls and the right hand under-cling. Good crimps at the lip

  • Joe’s Valley

    Sit start on the sloper rail. Left hand goes to pocket and right handbumps twice to crimp. Go to the lip.

    Start low on a fin and work your way to the pockets at the lip.Mantle.

    Sit start with left hand on the arête and right hand on a side pullcrimp. Right hand moves to a jug and then bump left hand twice to agaston. Cross the right hand over to a crimp and bump again to a jug.Exit left.

    Starts on #3 and at midway jug follow the good holds up the centerto the big under-cling. Bump the right hand to good holds whileslapping the arête with the left. 20+ moves.

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  • Joe’s Valley

    3 4

  • Joe’s Valley

    Start with the left hand on thecrimp and right hand on thegaston. Continue to the lip ongood crimps.V3 variation: Exit left.

    Stand start under the overhangingarête. Follow the sloping crimpsto good edges up top.

    Start on the cobble stonesand climb to the flakes. Lefthand moves to the crimp andright foot heel-hooks the jug.Move right hand to the leftboob, then cross over withthe left hand to the rightboob and stand up to the lip.

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  • Joe’s Valley

    Sit start low matched on the triangular jug.Work your way up the jugs and tufas on the right or left side tothe crimps at the lip. Throw for the big pocket.

    Sit start low matched on the triangular jug. Lefthand pocket right hand under-cling. Big crossover with the lefthand to small three finger pocket, jump to the right hand side-pull. Finish left on good holds.

    Stand start left hand under-cling and righthand crimp. Cross right hand over to sloper pocket left hand tofar left pocket. Right hand to the rail, match and traverse left ongood holds. Easy mantle

    Stand start left hand under-cling andright hand crimp. Cross right hand over to sloper pocket, lefthand to sloping pocket. Match the rail then flip your hands to theunder-cling. Right hand gaston with left heel-hook on rail. Lefthand to the sloper at the lip right hand crimp. Technical mantel

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    5 6

  • Joe’s Valley

    Sit start left hand crimp righthand side-pull jug. Work yourway up the good edges alongthe arête

    Traverse the boulder from thebeginning of #6 and top out #3

    Sit start under-clingjug. Left hand sloperrail right hand gastonpinch. Left hand smallside-pull pinch righthand to dish at the lip.Mantle left

    Follow good edgesup the slab. 1

    2

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  • Joe’s Valley

    Stand start on crimps with a high right foot. Right hand to side-pull, left hand to a tiny crimp. Move right Hand to the horizon-tal slash and bring left hand up to the slash. Big left hand movefor the lip.

    Sit start matched on jug. Move right hand two finger pocket, lefthand around the arête to a two finger pocket. High foot crossright hand over to the big edge. Bump right hand up the arêteand get an under-cling with the left. Continue bumping the rightup the arête to the lip of the boulder. Left hand to crimp outleft and mantel.

    Sit start matched on jug. Left hand to pocket right hand to edge.Climb up using arête with the left hand.

    12 3