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Page 1: June 2020€¦ · MSLBA is the multicultural, go-to organization for Maryland retail alcohol beverage industry issues. No matter how proficient you are at the operations and management
Page 2: June 2020€¦ · MSLBA is the multicultural, go-to organization for Maryland retail alcohol beverage industry issues. No matter how proficient you are at the operations and management

VOLUME82NUMBER06 June 2020 BEVERAGE JOURNAL 1

Maryland l Washington, DC l Delaware

F E AT U R E S

10 MAINTAINING MENTAL HEALTH IN CRISIS How industry professionals can cope with anxiety, depression, and substance abuse in the Coronavirus era

14 RETHINKING PINK Understanding the new challenges—and opportunities—for rosé

18 CANS AIM FOR THE TOP SHELF Surges in quality and premium entrants are boosting the canned wine category

D E PA R T M E N T S

02 PUB PAGE Covid-19: A look at how the beverage alcohol industry isdealing with the crises around the world?

04 NEW PRODUCTS & PROMOTIONS

24 BAR TALK

34 MARTY KUTLIK: A CUT ABOVE: Ridgely Wine and Spirits ... staying focused on what matters most

40 MARKET SHOTS Promotions, Happenings & News From the Local Markets

JUNE 2020

10

18

14

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Page 3: June 2020€¦ · MSLBA is the multicultural, go-to organization for Maryland retail alcohol beverage industry issues. No matter how proficient you are at the operations and management

BEVERAGE JOURNAL, INC.

President / Publisher Stephen [email protected]

Board of Directors Lee W. MurrayThomas W. Murray

Information Technology Director

Peter [email protected]

EDITORIAL

Senior Editor Kristen [email protected]

Managing Editor W. R. [email protected]

Contributing Editors Alia Akkam, Arielle Albert, Keven Danow, Edward Durgin David Lincoln Ross, Ed McCarthy, Jack Robertiello

ART & DESIGN

Creative Director Larry Lee [email protected]

Senior Designer Jeff [email protected]

TECHNOLOGY & WEB

eCommerce Director Ian [email protected]

eCommerce Managers Karli Del Rossi, Evan Berube

Online Web Programming Vali Balescu

PRINT & PRODUCTION

Print Services Manager Lee Stringham [email protected] 410.519.7034

ADVERTISING & MARKETING

MD & DC Advertising Sales Stephen Patten [email protected] 410.796.5455

National Advertising Sales Jody Slone-Spitalnik [email protected] 212.571.3232

COVID-19: AROUND THE WORLD

Nations are attempting to fight the Covid-19 pandemic with a variety of strategies. Some work better than others. It will be months, perhaps years before we can really look back and figure out what worked best. But from South Africa to India, from England to the USA, from Thailand to Mexico, from California to Maryland, different and drastic approach-es to regulating the beverage alcohol business seem to be a common keystone of many governmental strategies.

In Mexico, the government included breweries in the list of “non-essential” manufacturers, forcing most to close. Convenience stores nationwide soon began running out of beer, which was apparently part of the government plan, thinking that without the famous social lubricant, it would be easier to maintain social distance and discourage social gatherings.

In Thailand, the sale of alcohol was banned for much of April, although that was eased slightly in early May. People will now be able to drink at home, but not in restaurants, which are now being reopened.

In India, well-known teetotaler, Prime Minister Modi banned alcohol sales during the country's national lockdown blocking a crucial source of direct tax income for states already struggling to ramp up health infrastructure and provide food to millions left jobless. The loss of liquor tax revenues -- an estimated 7 billion rupees ($92 million) a day -- has prompted calls from states like Punjab to lift the ban.

"Liquor is a major source of revenue for all states," Amarinder Singh, Punjab's chief minister from the Congress party, said in a television interview last week. "How will I make up for that? Will the people in Delhi give it to me? They don't even give 1 rupee."

In England, some are speculating that

pubs may have to stay closed till Christ-mas! According to Cabinet Office minister Michael Gove, that’s a real possibility. One insider commented, “Pubs were the first to close and they will be the last to reopen - which is understandable, but many will not come back from this. Small independent breweries are part of this country’s DNA, but a lot of them won’t survive unless the government extends the grants it has offered to pubs and hotels. Lot of pubs and breweries were already struggling. If they take on loads of debt, the system will break.”

In South Africa, not only was the sale of alcohol banned, so was the transporta-tion of it – even for export markets! The ramifications for the South African wine industry, which employs some 290,000 people, are enormous. According to VinPro, nearly half of South Africa's wine is exported.

"The uncertainty created by the short-sighted banning of exports places in jeopardy an industry supporting many hundreds of thousands of workers," said Mike Ratcliffe, chair of the Stellenbosch Wine Routes. "It further places at risk the decades of work that went into building market share in our export countries."

Even here at home, most states have classed off-premise outlets as essential and many have allowed restaurants with closed dining rooms to temporarily offer alcohol with take-out or delivery orders.

How the industry responds to the rap-idly changing rules in our various market-places around the world will do much to define the shape of things to come. n

Over 80 Years of Continuous Publication

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to THE BEVERAGE JOURNAL, INC.

P.O. Box 159, Hampstead, MD 21074-0159

STEPHEN PATTEN PUBLISHER

[email protected]

Maryland l Washington, DC

Published Monthly by The Beverage Journal, Inc.

(USPS# PE 783300)

2 BEVERAGE JOURNAL June 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com

The Maryland Beverage Journal, the Washington, DC Beverage Journal and the Delaware Beverage Journal are registered trademarks of Beverage Journal, Inc. All rights reserved.

Periodicals postage paid at Baltimore, MD and additional mailing offices. Subscription rates: MD edition; 1 year $45.00 plus tax, 2 years $75.00 plus tax, 3 years $100.00 plus tax, FedEx Ground delivery $85.00 plus tax per year per edition, single copies $10.00 plus tax. DC edition; 1 year $36.00 plus tax, 2 years $60.00 plus tax, 3 years $83.00 plus tax, FedEx Ground delivery $85.00 plus tax per year per edition, single copies $5.00 plus tax.

The opinions expressed by guest columnists are their own and not necessarily those of The Beverage Journal, Inc. The Beverage Journal, Inc. is an affirmative action/equal opportunity corporation.

Copyright 2020 the Beverage Journal, Inc. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Not responsible for unsolicited material or advertising claims.

BeverageJournalInc.com

P U B PA G E

(Thank you Duncan Cameron of Cameron Communications for compiling and sharing the above information.)

Page 4: June 2020€¦ · MSLBA is the multicultural, go-to organization for Maryland retail alcohol beverage industry issues. No matter how proficient you are at the operations and management

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Page 5: June 2020€¦ · MSLBA is the multicultural, go-to organization for Maryland retail alcohol beverage industry issues. No matter how proficient you are at the operations and management

4 BEVERAGE JOURNAL June 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com

NEW PRODUCTS

1 2 3

NEW PRODUCTS

654

1. CHANDON ‘BY THE BAY’ CARNEROS SPARKLING WINEChandon is launching a reserve blanc de blancs called By The Bay. A blend of 92% Chardonnay and 8% Pinot Blanc, the wine is made with fruit grown primarily at Chandon’s Carneros estate vineyard and pays homage to its proximity to the San Pablo Bay. By The Bay spent 42 months on the lees; winemaker Pauline Lhote aged 15% of the blend in French oak to add a subtle toastiness and complexity.

2. HIGH NOON HARD SELTZER: LIME & PEACHE. & J. Gallo’s High Noon Hard Seltzer has added two new flavors made with real fruit: Lime and Peach. The pair is both summery and strategic—lime is currently the #3 top flavor in the hard seltzer category, and peach is a leading vodka flavor but rarely seen among seltzers. High Noon is also o� ering a variety 8-pack starting in June, and recently announced an innovative media partnership with Barstool Sports. 100 calories; 4.5 %ABV. 

3. LION AND THE LILY ROSÉIn 1974 a handful of wine producers from Bordeaux came together to create Les Vignerons de Tutiac, the first French independent producer of AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée) wine. Inspired by the coat of arms of Bordeaux which embodies strength, beauty, and the preservation of nature, they created Lion and the Lily, a consumer-friendly Merlot-based rosé with an elegant Vinolok glass closure. Aimed at any-occasion enjoyment, and millennials.

SRP: $29.50 SRP: $9.99/4-pack (12oz cans); $18.99/8-pack SRP: $14.99 chandon.com highnoonspirits.com enovationbrands.com

4. SEAGRAM’S SWEET TEA VODKASeagram’s has released a new and improved recipe and label for Seagram’s Sweet Tea Vodka. The updated expression is lighter in color and is made using all-natural flavors as well as 20% less sugar. The new formula has a well-balanced black iced tea taste with hints of honey and caramel. Designed to be mixed in cocktails, sipped neat, or over ice; 70 proof. The refreshed label is consistent with the full Seagram’s line-up.

5. SCATTERED PEAKS NAPA VALLEY CABERNET SAUVIGNONSNapa Valley winemaker Joel Aiken, known for decades of work at Beaulieu Vineyard, has released his first bottlings under Purple Wine + Spirits’ Scattered Peaks label. Both are 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, blended from prime sites and aged in French oak barrels. The ‘Small Lot’ fruit from Morisoli Vineyard in Rutherford and Sage Ridge Vineyard south of Howell Mountain was harvested just prior to the wildfires of 2017.

6. THE GLENLIVET ‘CARIBBEAN RESERVE’ SINGLE MALT SCOTCHThe Glenlivet has launched Caribbean Reserve, a non-aged single malt Scotch whisky expression finished in ex-Caribbean rum barrels. A clear break from Scotch-making tradition, the new blend o� ers a sweet and smooth taste with caramel to� ee notes followed by tropical fruits, honey, and cinnamon. Can be enjoyed neat, on the rocks, topped with coconut water, or mixed in a craft cocktail like a Mai Tai. 80 proof.

SRP: $9.99/750ml; $14.99/1L; $17.99/1.75L SRP: Napa Valley $40; Small Lot $125 SRP: $34.99 seagramsvodka.com purplewinespirits.com theglenlivet.com

Page 6: June 2020€¦ · MSLBA is the multicultural, go-to organization for Maryland retail alcohol beverage industry issues. No matter how proficient you are at the operations and management

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Page 7: June 2020€¦ · MSLBA is the multicultural, go-to organization for Maryland retail alcohol beverage industry issues. No matter how proficient you are at the operations and management

6 BEVERAGE JOURNAL June 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com

7 8 9 10 11 12

NEW PRODUCTSNEW PRODUCTS

7. SUNDAY FUNDAY SPARKLING ROSÉReckless Love Wines, which introduced Sunday Funday Sauvignon Blanc in 2018, has launched its buddy: Sunday Funday Sparkling Rosé. Presenting itself as a “prime sunshine wine,” the bottle features a peek-a-boo label with a pink sunglasses showcasing the wine’s vivid pink hue. Sourced from Italy, the sparkling rosé is fruit-forward with a splash of sweetness on the palate. Reckless Love Wines are marketed nationally by WX Brands.

8. JOSE CUERVO TRADICIONALAÑEJO TEQUILA Jose Cuervo Tradicional is introducing its first añejo tequila: Tradicional Añejo, which borrows from Irish whiskey’s craft. Made with the original Cuervo family recipe from 1795, Tradicional Añejo is matured for 12+ months in new American oak barrels, then finished for up to four months in Irish single malt whiskey barrels, to create a unique and complex tequila. Can be enjoyed neat, on the rocks, in classic tequila drinks, or in variations of whiskey cocktails. 80 proof.

9. JOSH CELLARS LODI RESERVE Back for a second edition, Josh Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Lodi Reserve wears a unique “camo” label honoring American service men and women—the same pattern Josh Cellars founder Joseph Carr’s father Josh wore in the U.S Army during the 1950s. For every bottle sold of this limited-time release, Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits will donate $1 to Operation Gratitude, a leading nonprofit that sends care packages and letters of thanks to troops stationed abroad.

.

SRP: $11.99 SRP: $32.99 SRP: $20 wxbrands.com cuervo.com deutschfamily.com | joshcellars.com

10. WOODFORD RESERVE ‘BATCH PROOF 123.6’ BOURBONWoodford Reserve has released its annual limited-edition, high-proof Batch Proof, bottled at 123.6 proof, as part of the annual Master’s Collection series celebrating Master Distiller Chris Morris’ vision and Woodford Reserve’s commitment to innovation. By the distillery’s proprietary process, barrels are batched and then bottled at actual proof—intensifying Woodford Reserve’s trademark flavor range of sweet vanilla and toasted oak. This year’s edition follows 2019’s acclaimed Batch Proof 123.3.

11. DUNKERTONS ORGANIC ‘CRAFT’ CIDER CANSWinesellers Ltd., already an early entrant in canned wine with Tiamo, is introducing Dunkertons Organic ‘Craft’ Cider in 330ml cans. The cidery, set in the ancient parish of Pembridge in the English countryside, is celebrating its 40th birthday in 2020. The organic ‘Craft’ cider incorporates deep apple flavor with a balance of sweetness, acidity and tannins; and its lower (5%) ABV aims to appeal to a wider range of today’s cider drinkers.

12. LUXARDO LONDON DRY GINKnown widely for its marasca cherry products, including Maraschino Liqueur and Maraschino Cherries, Italy’s Luxardo—now in its sixth generation—is introducing its first clear spirit to the U.S.: Luxardo London Dry Gin, a juniper-forward expression that follows an ancestral recipe dating back to 1833, only 11 years after the distillery’s founding in Zara, Dalmatia. Its nine botanicals include juniper, coriander, licorice, cinchona, cinnamon, and bitter orange; 86 proof.

SRP: $129.99 SRP: $ 14.99/four-pack (330ml) SRP: $35 woodfordreserve.com winesellersltd.com | dunkertonscider.co.uk luxardo.com | hotalingandco.com

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Page 9: June 2020€¦ · MSLBA is the multicultural, go-to organization for Maryland retail alcohol beverage industry issues. No matter how proficient you are at the operations and management

8 BEVERAGE JOURNAL June 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com

THE FIND

POP’S DAY CALLS FOR SOMETHING A BIT BEYONDWhile neckties are out, sipping spirits are still in when it comes to gifting for Father’s Day. But if there was ever a year to get something a little di� erent, 2020 is it. To go beyond the usual, think about spirits with unique back stories and distinctive personalities—just like Dad.

COGNAC KEEPER: FRAPIN ‘CELLAR MASTER EDITION NO. 1’ From the Cognac House of Frapin, Cellar Master Patrice Piveteau’s namesake blend, aged for over 10 years and released at cask strength without using any filtration or chilling to keep the spirit’s purity. Woody vanilla notes evolve from fruity to floral; the palate is balanced and lively, with essence of apricot, ginger, and a long finish. SRP $99; 93.4 proof.

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FOR THE ARMCHAIR TRAVELER?The Isle of Jura’s eponymous distillery has been a reliable and innovative source of single malt Scotch since its rebirth in 1963. The latest release, Jura Journey, has a classic vanilla spice nose, with citrus and a touch of smoke, followed by cinnamon, pears, pecans, and to� ee. Remarkably a� ordable and handsomely packaged, making it a sneaky good gift for the stick-to-Scotch crowd. SRP $34.99; 80 proof.

BELFOUR: FROM THE SAVE TO THE STAVE…Legendary Chicago Blackhawks goalie Ed Belfour is applying the same intensity to whiskey that he did to blocking pucks. The most unique of his e� orts is a 92-proof bourbon aged in American white oak barrels then mellowed with added staves of toasted Texas pecan wood, imparting hints of brown sugar amid smoky roasted pecan (SRP $89). And the Limited Edition Rye features a Stanley-Cup-ish silver-plated one-ounce chalice cork topper (SRP $299, 100 proof ). belfourspirits.com

BLACKENED: WHERE METAL MEETS BARRELDad may or may not have been a heavy metal fan, but if he is a whiskey fan, Blackened will deliver good vibes. Every batch has been carefully blended by Master Distiller Rob Dietrich (bourbons and ryes, average age 8+ years), finished in black brandy casks, and then enveloped in Metallica music while aging in barrel. (And if Dad is a Metallica fan, each batch comes with its own playlist, selected by members of the band.) SRP $44.99; 90 proof. blackenedwhiskey.com

Page 10: June 2020€¦ · MSLBA is the multicultural, go-to organization for Maryland retail alcohol beverage industry issues. No matter how proficient you are at the operations and management

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MANAGING ANXIETYThe hospitality industry’s high-stress work environment puts professionals at higher risk for mental health issues—even in normal times, says Kristin Townsend, a li-censed marriage and family therapist with A Better Life Therapy in Philadelphia. “It’s expected that [restaurant and beverage professionals] work long, strenuous hours without breaks, and there’s high pres-sure to perform well,” she says. “Because of this, many restaurant workers’ lives and identities are completely built around their art and their work, which is now just completely demolished by the state of our communities.”

n recent years, the deaths of several high-profile industry veterans—most notably the suicide of Anthony Bourdain in 2018—have been clarion calls for greater awareness around mental health issues in the hospitality and beverage industries.

Now, as the coronavirus crisis has forced restaurants to close and put millions out of work, maintaining mental health is both more challenging and more important. Here are some tools and strategies for coping.

IChristina Frank suggests checking the news shouldn’t be the first or last thing you do in a day.

MAINTAINING MENTAL HEALTH IN CRISISHOW INDUSTRY PROFESSIONALS CAN COPE WITH ANXIETY,DEPRESSION, AND SUBSTANCE ABUSE IN THE CORONAVIRUS ERA

BY THE SEVENFIFTY DAILY EDITORS

Page 12: June 2020€¦ · MSLBA is the multicultural, go-to organization for Maryland retail alcohol beverage industry issues. No matter how proficient you are at the operations and management

This loss of purpose can cause hos-pitality workers to feel increased levels of anxiety or depression. “Many people in our society over-function as a way to fill the gaps,” says Maryann Sheridan, a licensed marriage and family therapist based in Fairfax, Virginia, “but there’s no way to over-function right now.”

“Maintain as much normalcy as possible, which is really hard nowadays,” says Chris-tina Frank, a licensed marriage and family therapist with Fairfax Integrative Therapy in Fairfax, Virginia. “Our minds like consisten-cy and predictability.” Waking up at a consis-tent hour, eating healthy meals, and going to bed at a set time can all help the mind and body adjust to a new normal.

“People are wired in a way that our brains are uncomfortable with not know-ing,” says Sheridan. “Be confident in what you do know.” The act of beginning and com-pleting projects helps satisfy that need, from simple tasks like making the bed and getting dressed, to larger ones like planting a garden or rearranging a room in the house.

Frank encourages people to set bound-aries when it comes to news media, add-ing that checking the news shouldn’t be the first or last thing you do in a day. But there’s no formula for maintaining mental health during this pandemic, and every-one’s experience will be different, so take time to assess how you’re feeling. “People cope with things differently,” says Frank. “Make space for whatever feelings might come. Acknowledge the feeling first, and then choose what to do with that emotion.”

BATTLING ISOLATION & LONELINESSSocial distancing and stay-at-home or-ders are particularly hard on hospitality workers, who spend much of their time in a socially interactive workplace. “A lot of people drawn to this industry are more extroverted,” says Frank. They crave and thrive in social situations, not only with guests but with coworkers, she adds: “This was so abrupt. One day you’re working, and the next day you’re home by yourself.”

Virtual communication doesn’t fill this void. “You can call friends, video

chat, drink, party online, but the con-nection is just not the same,” says Matt Lundquist, a psychotherapist and the founder and clinical director of Tribeca Therapy in Manhattan. In fact, new re-search shows how draining Zoom can be.

Paul Grieco, the owner of Terroir in Manhattan, stays in touch with his team regularly, and has promised them that when the restaurant reopens he will re-hire all employees; communication and assurances that have been essential in bolstering the mental health of his team. “How you treat your people every single day that you’re with them creates an en-vironment for how they can go on about their lives,” Grieco says. “The decisions I make on a daily basis prioritize them as number one. ”

Evan Abrams, the beverage director at Marta in Manhattan, keeps up group text threads with the restaurant’s managers and sommelier team, and other wine direc-tors of Union Square Hospi-tality Group (the group Marta is part of), which has been critical to his sense of con-nectedness and community, he reports.

Don’t hesitate to reach out to your social network beyond restau-rants as well, says Dr. Vaile Wright, a clini-cal psychologist and the director of clini-cal research and quality for the American Psychological Association. “What stops you from reaching out is your own guilt—not wanting to be a burden,” says Wright. “Asking for help is hard.”

SEEKING SUPPORTLow wages and lack of health benefits al-ready prevent many from seeking out for-mal mental health resources, and this may be made worse by coronavirus-related job loss. Organizations like I Got Your Back, a California-based mental health peer sup-port group with a crisis support hotline, and Chefs With Issues, a platform for food and beverage workers to share personal stories and resources, work to bridge the gap on a day-to-day basis.

During this crisis, more resources have emerged. In Philadelphia, a partnership led by High Street Hospitality Group sponsored workshops honoring the memory of Sam-uel Howard, an employee at High Street’s Fork restaurant, who died of an over-dose shortly after the restaurant closed in March. Lionrock Recovery, a California-based substance abuse rehab program, has

launched free, virtual COVID-19 anxiety sup-

LEFT: Evan Abrams keeps up group text threads with his restaurant’s managers and sommelier team. RIGHT: Mickey Bakst started Ben’s Friends, which has been hosting Zoom meetings for those working to maintain their sobriety.

“Our brains are uncomfortable with not knowing. Be confident in what you do know.”

– Maryann Sheridan

Page 13: June 2020€¦ · MSLBA is the multicultural, go-to organization for Maryland retail alcohol beverage industry issues. No matter how proficient you are at the operations and management

port meetings. Restaurant workers looking for professional mental health services can also use a web search or call their local 311 to ask for sliding scale or free services in their area.

MANAGING SUBSTANCE ABUSEU.S. alcohol sales have soared during stay-home orders, and heightened consump-tion may be especially troubling for those already at risk for abuse. The hospitality industry has the highest rate of substance abuse among all industries, according to the Substance Abuse and Mental Health Services Administration; data from 2008 to 2012 shows 16.9% percent of adults working full-time in the accommodations and food services industry have been di-agnosed with a substance use disorder.

In recent years, more restaurant and beverage professionals have publicly shared their struggles with alcohol and

drug addiction—from the chef-owners of Joe Beef in Montreal to Master of Wine Tim Hanni—and industry-specific sup-port organizations have emerged as well.

Ben’s Friends was founded in 2016 in honor of a Charleston, South Carolina chef who took his own life after struggling with alcoholism. “What Ben’s Friends has cre-ated for me is a tighter cohesiveness,” says co-founder Mickey Bakst, who has more than 36 years of sobriety. “Not only do we share the problems of our addiction, but we share the understanding of our passion for the work that we do.”

That understanding may be even more important now. Ben’s Friends has been hosting daily Zoom meetings for those working to maintain their sobriety, and virtual sessions may lessen the stigma many feel about walking into a meeting.

“Regardless of what you’re going through, meetings can help you identify on a human level,” says Jack McGarry, the co-owner of The Dead Rabbit, who chron-icled his recovery on social media begin-ning in 2016. “It puts things into perspec-tive. Things could be worse. A lot of us still have our health and a lot to be thankful for. These types of sessions enforce that.”

For others without a history of sub-stance abuse, the risk of slipping from nor-mal to unhealthy alcohol consumption is a real concern. “Alcohol is a slippery slope for many of us,” says Rebecca Hopkins, the founder of A Balanced Glass, a forum that supports the health and wellness for wine professionals. “Discipline is hard, especially when boredom, lethargy, and isolation are realities.” The social boundaries that might be imposed when drinking at a restaurant or at a party aren’t present when drinking at home, especially if you live alone.

To keep an eye on consumption while isolating, Hopkins suggests setting a daily limit and sticking to it, drinking a glass of water for every glass of wine, and taking at least one day off from drinking per week.

REDIRECTING ENERGIESFilling a new abundance of free time can be essential to one’s mental health. “The phys-

ical pace, exertion, and physicality of wine and hospitality has an impact on our ner-vous and adrenal systems,” says Hopkins, “and slowing down can leave people agi-tated, antsy, and exhausted.” She suggests channeling that hustle into healthy habits like at-home workouts or online classes.

“You spend your life serving others,” says McGarry. “Now is the time to serve yourself, to invest in yourself. This is an opportunity to incorporate new routines moving forward, like meditation or exer-cise.” Being forced out of a routine can help people get distance from less healthy res-taurant habits, like cigarette breaks, shift drinks, and high-calorie family meals.

Some hospitality workers have thrown themselves into activism or new profes-sional opportunities, such as Overproof’s Company Toast, a re-employment initia-tive paying bartenders to lead virtual tast-ing events for corporate groups; or Hospy, a platform training bar professionals to monetize their skills in other industries.

While there’s no guaranteed end date to the coronavirus crisis, Marta’s Abrams, for one, hopes that people will emerge with a newfound understanding of how hospital-ity establishments factor into the mental health of workers—and their customers, too: “Restaurants are platforms for building interpersonal relationships; they provide so much more than just nourishment.” n

“Discipline is hard, especially when boredom, lethargy, and isolation are realities.” – Rebecca Hopkins

“You spend your life serving others.

Now is the time to serve yourself, to invest in yourself.”

– Jack McGarry, The Dead Rabbit

MENTAL HEALTH

“Many restaurant workers’ identities are completely built around their work, which is now just completely demolished.” – Kristin Townsend

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Page 15: June 2020€¦ · MSLBA is the multicultural, go-to organization for Maryland retail alcohol beverage industry issues. No matter how proficient you are at the operations and management

As early as autumn of 2019, the “Yes way, rosé!” era appeared to be coming to a close. There were bottles of 2018 rosés still sitting on store and warehouse shelves. The market was flooded with cheap com-modity brands. Meanwhile, Gen Z was reaching for cans of hard seltzer.

By January 2020, Nielsen analysts were predicting that off-premise rosé sales growth would slow to the single digits, put-ting it on par with other wine categories.

AND THEN CAME CORONAVIRUSProvence, king of the category, is reeling from the fallout. C o n s i d e r, f o r e x a m p l e , Château Minuty, where nearly 30 percent of estate wines are bottled in oversized formats, including 3- and 6-liter. “The inability to sit outside at restaurants… the closures of beaches, the social distancing

that makes getting together at hotel pools impossible, all these limitations [are hurting] rosé sales,” says Alex Michas, chief operating officer of New York’s Vintus, Minuty’s exclusive U.S. importer.

“Our overall promotion strategy will shift,” adds Michas. “We are working to bring the essence of Saint-Tropez and the owners, the Matton family, to their con-sumers through different e-commerce partnership opportunities, Instagram and other social media channels in place of ac-tivations at beach clubs, patios, rooftops and waterfront settings.”

Yet rosé season is upon us, and oppor-tunities remain. We spoke with importers, wholesalers, retailers, and producers to understand the trends that will shape the 2020 rosé season.

THE ROSÉ MESSAGE SHIFTSThe pool party is over. Festive summer outdoor concerts and sporting events canceled. Producers are now pivoting to a more serious tone.

Ste Michelle Wine Estates (SMWE), for example, had been poised to roll out a new product in a can, 14 Hands “Unicorn” Co-

lumbia Valley Rosé Bubbles, in early March with a splashy “win your Unicorn trip” con-sumer sweepstakes winner to be announced on April 9, Na-tional Unicorn Day.

“We shifted messaging to one that celebrates small victo-ries and moments of joy,” com-ments SMWE communications

WE SAW IT COMING. Even before COVID-19 hit, and before many European imported wines were hit with a 25 percent tariff, the outlook for rosé was, well, less rosey. Clouds were forming over the sunset beach party that had been raging for the past decade.

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RETHINKING PINKUNDERSTANDING THE NEW CHALLENGES—AND OPPORTUNITIES —FOR ROSÉ IN 2020

BY KATHERINE COLE

Alex Michas

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manager Rebekah Zale. The new campaign advises consumers to “start a gratitude prac-tice,” and meditate or write in their journals while sipping the canned pink wine.

Others are hopeful that the shift away from “party quaffer” will foster a greater focus on quality and terroir, often ab-sent from the rosé discussion, says Kashy Khaledi, owner of Ashes & Diamonds in Napa Valley. Khaledi created his first rosé four years ago, modeled after examples from Loire Valley’s Chinon region. “Pro-ducers such as Charles Joguet and Olga Raffault were benchmarks for the style we wanted to make, and we found a single vineyard of old-vine Cabernet Franc in Carneros,” he explains.

The single vineyard concept is rela-tively new for rosé, but catching on: So-noma’s Gehricke Wines inaugural 2019 rose hails from a single cool-climate site in Los Carneros planted to Pinot Noir. The style is Provence, says owner August Sebastiani, but the profile is pure “Sonoma terroir.”

OVERSUPPLY AND THE PRESSURE TO DISCOUNT Los Angeles-based entrepreneur Tawnya Falkner produces a combined total of 28,000 cases of still and sparkling rosé un-der the Très Chic and Le Grand Courtâge labels, which she founded seven years ago. While she has pushed back against the pressure to discount prices in the past, she says this spring has been a completely different animal. Her still rosé, normally $16.99, is now going for as low as $13.99.

“We are seeing a price contraction across the board because of this glut of

French and domestic wines,” Falkner la-ments. “[Retailers] are looking for at least 40 if not 50 percent gross margins… [they want] less expensive products that they can make a huge margin on.”

The oversupply is compounded by a consumer spending less: “It does seem like people are trading down with rosé this season,” confirms Stacey Gibson, partner at the Portland, Oregon retail store Park Avenue Fine Wines. She re-ports her average rosé bottle sale de-creased by 30 percent in value.

BOTTLING STATESIDE TO AVOID TARIFFS A new buzzword among importers is “flexitanks.” Made from polyethylene, these massive, air-tight wine-transport bladders allow producers to bottle rosé on U.S. soils. According to NPR, Florida Carib-bean Distillers “found this loophole” in the 25 percent tariff and now imports “truck-loads” of bulk wine from France and bottles the value-priced “Le Roséy” at its bottling facility in Auburndale, Florida.

High-end producers are taking ad-vantage of the opportunity, too. For Provence’s Château Peyrassol, bottling stateside not only enabled the estate to avoid tariffs and maintain pricing, it al-

lowed the wines to get to market quick-er. “Having our rosés available even a few weeks earlier than usual let us beat our competitors to market,” says Jer-emy Sells, director of Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Peyrassol’s importer.

While some importers would pre-fer to stay mum on the subject of large-scale bulk importing—certain French appellations don’t allow it—others

point out that it’s far more sustainable than shipping heavy glass across the ocean, and should be standard practice regardless of the tariff situation.

The anti-oxidative format of the refrig-erated flexitank enables wine to stay fresher longer, believes Paul Chevalier, global direc-

OPPOSITE PAGE: Minuty aims to channel Saint-Tropez joie de vivre // Long Island's Bridge Lane is seeing demand for premium rosé in alternative formats. // LEFT: Le Roséy journeyed from grape to "flexitank" to glass. // RIGHT: VRAC is adding pouches after bag-in-box success. // BELOW: Importer Melissa Saunders is thrilled to see eco-friendly 3L bag-in-box Hérrison Rosé thriving.

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tor of marketing for Château D’Esclans and a vice president at Shaw-Ross International Importers, who is now bottling The Palm by Whispering Angel on U.S. shores for the first time. “With young, fresh-style wines like our Provençal rosés, [bulk shipping] adds another three to six months of shelf life to the product, in my opinion,” he says.

GOODBYE MAGNUMS, HELLO BOXES AND GROWLERSLarge-format rosés are looking different this season. The once-popular rosé mag-num, jeroboam, and methuselah, which were previously the domain of high-end on-premise venues, don’t translate to retail, particularly in the era of social distancing.

Bag-in-box rosés are a better fit for the home, and the current somber, belt-tight-ening zeitgeist. And the format no longer signals lower quality. Boutique importers—such as Jenny & François, with its “From the Tank” Vin de Pays du Pont du Gard rosé—are finding that the time is right for quaffable bag-in-box rosés from France.

“Our bag-in-box sales are three times what they usually are,” reports Melissa Saun-ders, owner and CEO of the New York import-er Communal Brands, whose bag-in-box rosé is called Hérisson by Domaine Rochebin. “This thrills me because it’s something I have believed in for a while now: Putting better-quality wine in a more environmentally-friendly format.”

At 3 liters, boxed wines con-veniently avoid the new import tariff, as well. “Naturally, if you do the math, the larger formats will definitely be selling at a bet-ter rate, and that makes a differ-

ence,” comments Lorena Ascencios, wine buyer at Astor Wines in New York. In May, Astor was sold out online of the “VRAC” IGP Mediterranée bag-in-box rosé.

Village Wine Imports, an importer and wholesaler based in the Bronx, is having an unusually strong year with the VRAC, says founder Michael Petrillo. The line gets its name from the French term for purchasing wine by the jug direct from wineries. To keep up with increasing de-mand this spring, Village Wine Imports has rolled out a 3L pouch in addition to its bag-in-box, and is adding a 250ml single-serve pouch in June.

Domestic wineries are also experi-encing increased demand for higher-end bag-in-box rosé. Michael Cook, sales di-rector at Lieb Cellars and Bridge Lane on the North Fork of Long Island is seeing a jump in demand for his 3L Bridge Lane box. “With folks making fewer stops at the wine shop, or now ordering deliveries, the value proposition is starting to shine,”

Cook observes.Meanwhile, refillable growler

sales, in states—such as Washing-ton, Texas, and Oregon—where

this is legal, are seeing a spike in demand, as well.

Portland, Oregon’s SE Wine Collective is filling growlers with a 2018 rosé for contact-free curbside pickup. In nearby North Plains, Abbey Creek Vineyard winemaker and proprietor

Bertony Faustin reports that “75 percent of what we are selling now is in refillable bottles,” and credits curbside refills of his “#Oooowee” rosé growlers for $25 with keeping his business afloat.

MORE BARREL-FERMENTED, BARREL-AGED ROSÉS TO WEATHER ALL SEASONSMost rosé has always been crafted for fresh, immediate consumption. Of course, there has always been a very small Euro-pean contingent of high-end rosés meant to age for years, if not decades, including Provence’s Clos Cibonne, López de Heredia from Rioja, Valentini from Abruzzo, and more. Chateau D’Esclans joined the fray more recently with its ultraluxe “Garrus” and “Les Clans” bottlings. But now, barrel-finished rosé meant for bottling aging has entered the mainstream.

Artisanal domestic producers have been delving into this style of winemaking. In Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Raptor Ridge winemaker Shannon Gustafson uses neutral French oak barrels to make a “Barrel-Fer-mented Rosé” ($28) crafted to attract a more discerning year-round rosé consumer.

In Walla Walla, Washington, winemaker Fiona Mak makes seasonally inspired bot-tlings for her Smak label, which is devoted entirely to rosé. “Our tagline is ‘Rosé All Year,’” Mak says, adding that she changes her tasting room décor depending on the season. This winter, she will be offering a barrel-fermented and barrel-aged Syr-ah-based rosé ($18). “It’s a fireplace, cozy, cabin-style wine, that really goes well with Thanksgiving meals,” says Mak. ■

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3L-box rosés fit

the current belt-tightening mindset

ABOVE: Fiona Mak makes only rosés under her Smak label in Walla Walla, WA; some of them spend time in barrel. // RIGHT: Bertony Faustin of Abbey Creek Vineyard refills a growler with his Oregon rosé for curbside pick-up.

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GREAT IDEA OUT OF THE

BLUE.

AZUL MARGARITA

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For years, canned wine was seen as a cheap alternative offering convenience in an attractive package, but recently, it appears that the same perception evolu-tion that occurred with other alternative packaging innovations is happening with canned wine. As consumer demand for high-quality wine in cans increases, re-tailers and restaurants are figuring out how to best leverage their potential.

The category’s popularity is undeni-able. Nielsen reported that off-premise sales of canned wine in 2019 grew 79.2

percent for the 52-week period ending December 28, 2019. In comparison, dur-ing the same period, overall off-prem-ise wine sales increased just 1.4 percent year-over-year. Canned wines racked up over $80 million in sales last year, ac-cording to Nielsen.

The market is currently dominated by a few brands—notably Precept Wine’s House Wine and Union Wine Co.’s Under-wood—but bigger players like E&J Gallo, The Wine Group, and Constellation are now aggressively in the game. Even beer

behemoths are betting on canned wine; AB InBev snapped up Babe Wine in 2019, and partnered with the NFL as an of-ficial sponsor.

Babe was born in a can, but the big-ger story may be established fine wine producers embracing cans. Francis Ford Coppola Winery was the first to popularize the format with the launch of Sofia in the early 2000s, and put its premium Diamond line in cans a decade later. The big spike in new entrants is even more recent: The number of producers canning wine grew 180 percent (from 125 to 350) between June 2018 and June 2019, according to wine-in-a-can research firm, WIC Research (WIC).

If there remained any question as to the quality of canned offerings, in a blind taste test conducted by WIC last year, the difference in taste between canned and bottled wine was statistically negligible.

In terms of the market’s direction, WIC’s partner and co-founder Robert L. Williams Jr., Ph.D. predicts that the mo-mentum is leaning toward the luxury end of the wine market: “More premium wines will continue to get canned as the market grows and competition increases.”

anned wine isn’t just found on grocery store shelves and at outdoor festivals these days. Producers, consumers, and sellers are taking aluminum more seriously than ever as more premium juice makes its way into cans.

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CANS AIM FOR THE TOP SHELFSURGES IN QUALITY AND PREMIUM ENTRANTS ARE BOOSTING THE CANNED WINE CATEGORY

BY KATHLEEN WILLCOX

ABOVE: Underwood Pinot Noir, launched in 2013, paved a premium path for producers like Gina Schober of Sans Wine Co.

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CANNED WINES TO THE TOP

QUALITY—INCREASINGLY—MATTERS Two producers that saw the growing im-portance of putting quality wine inside the can were Union Wine Co. in Oregon, and Alloy Wine Works in Paso Robles, which launched premium wine in cans in 2013 and 2014 respectively. Together, they were responsible for much of the category’s growth between 2013 and 2016.

“It was about meeting people where they wanted to be,” says Alloy’s founder Andrew Jones, who sold the company to Vintage Wine Estates last year but re-mains on board. “They wanted top-quali-ty, terroir-driven grapes, treated the same way they would be for the bottle, but in a smaller, endlessly recyclable package that could be consumed anywhere.” Jones con-tinues to make several canned wines un-der his Field Recordings label.

A 375ml can of Underwood or Alloy typically retails for $6 to $7, and a four-pack of 187ml Sofia cans goes for $20. But

what about wine that sells for $10 or $12 or even $25 a can?

In 2015, Sans Wine Co. began sourc-ing organically farmed grapes from the Napa Valley and putting them in a can. “Our cans are vintage-dated and sourced

from a single vineyard,” co-founder Gina Schober explains. “No one else was speci-fying AVAs, vintages, and vineyards, but we knew there was a market for that.”

While the original base-level offerings retail for an above-average $10 per can, Sans now produces a $12 Carbonic Cari-gnan, $15 Dry Riesling, and a $25 Cabernet Sauvignon. Sans Wine Co. now produces 5,000 24-can cases annually.

“Our philosophy is to treat the grapes as we would if they were going in the bottle,” co-founder Jake Stover says. “Our interaction with them is minimal.” Also filling the organic canned wine void: Châ-teau Maris has canned organic Pinot Noir in the South of France since 2015; Wine-sellers Ltd. started canning Tiamo in Italy in 2017; California’s Bonterra added cans in 2018.

LUXURY MEETS ACCESSIBILITYAs the aluminum-packaged wine supply ramps up, the logical question is how they

ABOVE: Charlie Brain of South African Lubanzi; outdoor convenience and recyclability are two prime selling points for cans. // Lila, from Latitude Beverage Co., is among a number of new brands produced only in cans. // Andrew Jones, creator of Alloy, a California can-only brand.

SHAPE OF THINGS TO COME?

Small, regional wineries are adding cans, too; Michigan’s Round Barn Winery now has four canned options. Colorado's craft producer Bigsby’s Folly introduced “cottle”—a 500ml resealable aluminum can-bottle hybrid—the first of its kind (Sterling also “cans” a resealable 375ml aluminum vessel.)

And Jet Blue Airlines recently selected Archer Roose to serve on board. Sourced from from Veneto, Italy; Provence, France; Mendoza, Argentina; and Casablanca Valley, Chile, Archer Roose offers, as they would say at the airport ticket counter, an upgrade.

“From a hospitality standpoint, finding a way to create premium wines that were immediately accessible seemed like a no-brainer.”

- Thomas Pastuszak, wine director, NoMad, NYC

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MARKETED BY BRONCO WINE CO. | 855.874.2394 | WWW.BRONCOWINE.COM | ©2020 CARMENET WINERY, SONOMA, CA | DRINK RESPONSIBLY

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will be consumed. “From a hospi-tality standpoint, finding a way to create premium wines that were immedi-ately accessible seemed like a no-brainer,” says Thomas Pastuszak, the wine director at New York City’s NoMad, who created Vinny in 2018, with the goal of creating a premium wine in a can. He contracts with small farms in New York State to create a sparkling white and a sparkling rosé, which retail at $20 for a four-pack (250ml)—and of course, the cans are part of the James Beard Award-winning bar program at NoMad Bar.

Outdoor enjoyment is a very conscious mode of use. Sean Larkin, the founder of hand-farmed Larkin Wines in Napa Valley, was inspired by the no-glass policy at the beach; he now offers white, red, and rosé cans—packaged confidently as LARKAN—at $144 for a 12-pack (375ml). In South Africa, U.S. expats Charles Brain and Walker Brown launched Lubanzi Wines in both bottles and cans, in 26 states and Canada last year; a four-pack retails for $30. “Cans just feel more relevant to the way people live their lives,” says Brown.

Some point to the increasing aware-ness of sustainability and wellness as fertile selling points for premium canned wine. “A single-serve can eliminate the bottle left unfinished at the end of the night,” says

Marian Leitner, the founder of Ar-cher Roose. She adds that alumi-num can be recycled and reused indefinitely: “Our cans are back on shelves within 60 days of being recycled.” The global recycling rate for glass is only around 26.5 per-

cent, while the global recycling rate for cans is 69 percent.

Brett Vankoski, the co-founder and wine director of Latitude Beverage Co., owner

of premium sparkling Italian cans dubbed Lila, notes: “As an in-

dustry we need to find ways to address how smaller formats like cans, especially ones with premium juice, can be a health-ier alternative.”

BECOMING BELIEVERSEven established fine wine importers and distributors are recognizing cans’ value and potential. “I did not think canned wine could be serious, terroir-driven, or varietally true,” says Arjun Dewan, the executive vice presi-dent at New York-based importer and dis-tributor Winebow. But in 2017, Winebow be-

gan working with Bridge Lane Wine, the second label of Long Island’s

Lieb Cellars, which specializes in bottles, kegs, and bag-in-box. The five styles of 375ml cans ($34/four-pack) changed Dewan’s mind.

The Winebow team launched their own line of

premium canned Proven-çal rosé, Amble + Chase, in 2018, which retails for about $5 a can (250ml). In March,

Winebow also became the New York distributor for Underwood,

which now represents six of the top 15 SKUs in Winebow’s Oregon super-premi-um category—including wine in bottle.

“Cans are not a fad, they are the fu-ture,” believes Rob McMillan, the founder of the Silicon Valley Bank’s Wine Divi-

sion, who authors the bank’s annual State of the Wine Industry report. “I have long been a naysayer for canned wine, because I think about how I like to consume fine wine, but ignoring cans as a segment means ignoring an on-ramp for younger consumers. The smaller servings also make it possible for all consumers to try better wines for a lower price.” Offering newer drinkers the opportunity to ex-plore higher quality, competitively priced cans is essential to the continued growth of the category, he believes. ■

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CANNED WINES TO THE TOP

UPSCALE ITSommelier Thomas

Pastuszak's Vinny cans are served at the

NoMad Hotel

Big suppliers are joining the

aluminum arena with extensions and can-

only brands.

CANNERS MASTER THE LEARNING CURVE

When Francis Ford Coppola launched Sofia in the early 2000s, the technology of canning wine was difficult to manage. “Because no one else was doing it here, it took us two years to perfect the science of preparing wine for the can,” says winemaker Tondi Bolkan. “You have to be thoughtful about what varieties you select and how the wine is treated before canning.”

Rich Bouwer, the CEO of Free Flow Wines in Sonoma, a leading provider of alternative wine packaging, agrees that winemakers’ approach to cans, not the technology itself, has shifted and resulted in better quality. Improved testing of linings has helped prevent unexpected quality issues caused by reactions between a can and the wine. Handling cans is another area of improvement. “Cans can’t be stacked as high as bottles, because they’ll get crushed, and they have to be moved around more carefully,” says Bouwer.

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I n 2017, Julia Jaksic, the executive chef at Employees Only Singa-pore, who spent years helming the kitchen at the bar’s original New

York location, opened Cafe Roze in East Nashville. Jaksic, who presides over both the food and drink menus, is keeping her all-day café open for take-out and deliv-ery of meals, bodega goods, and cocktails during the COVID-19 crisis.

BEVERAGE MEDIA GROUP: What did you originally envision for Cafe Roze?

JULIA JAKSIC: There was a part of me that wanted a late-night vibe, but I shifted fo-cus because there wasn’t a place in the neighborhood like Cafe Gitane in New York, where you can get a great cocktail day or night. Pre-COVID, the bar program was in a good place—a daytime Garibaldi, draught Miller High Life with grapefruit-Campari ice cubes, and a Martini happy hour with Ford’s Gin and oysters.

BMG: What impact has staying open had on your staff?

JJ: Some servers, bartenders, and manag-ers decided to stay on and package bo-

dega items or drive deliveries. I wanted to get our customers to shift away from Postmates and DoorDash—platforms that take a percentage of sales—and use the system on our website instead. Luck-ily, people are supportive and ordering through us and I’ve been able to maintain this skeleton crew.

BMG: What has been one of your biggest concerns during this time?

JJ: How to limit exposure and keep our-selves safe. Off the bat we set up a rule: If you want to work here you have to be self-isolating and you can’t live with some-one who has a certain job, like an Uber driver, nurse, or grocery store worker. I have these amazing people who are com-ing to work and going home and, besides a roommate or significant other, are not being seen outside our circle.

BMG: How are you developing cocktails now?

JJ: We keep a few drinks including our Ne-groni and Manhattan on the menu; oth-erwise they are always changing. We use whatever we can, wherever we can. Our Root of All Evil has vodka, lemon, car-rot, and beet, and one of our bartenders

put out an awesome coconut-mango-rum smoothie type of situation that used a bunch of mangoes on their last leg. ■

BEST OF TWO WORLDSJULIA JAKSIC, CAFE ROZE, NASHVILLE

BY ALIA AKKAM

BAR TALK

To-Go Cocktail Offerings: Recyclable plastic containers of batched creations such as the Jameson-lemon-ginger Dublin Donkey, avail-able in eight or 16 ounces.

COVID-Era Operational Challenge: “Supply chains are so backed up and getting packag-ing material has been an issue. Everyone’s flying by the seat of their pants.”

Her Employees Only Education: “Even though food wasn’t the draw it was an interesting setting, learning how to cook for a place with such a strong drinks program.”

How She’s Getting Through the Crisis: “I lived in NYC for so long and it gives you chops. I have to figure out how to do this. I have employees who depend on me.”

• BOTANICA

Lime and tequila are classic playmates; adding cucumber juice, a rare Alpine liqueur, and lavender bitters take them to another place.

Ingredients:¾ oz Blanco Tequila½ oz Cucumber Juice¾ oz fresh Lime Juice½ oz Zirbenz Stone Pine Liqueur½ oz Agave Nectar3 dashes Lavender Bitters

Method: Add all ingredients to a shaker with ice and shake for 30 to 45 seconds. Double-strain into a glass of choice and garnish with dried lavender sprig.

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Turning inventory. And heads.

That’s Proof.

BY SOUTHERN GLAZER’S

ProofTM

Visit about.sgproof.com to find out more

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26 BEVERAGE JOURNAL June 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com

But he dreamed of being his own boss. That opportunity came in 1986 when he purchased Ridgely Liquors in Lutherville and eventually transformed it into the popular Ridgely Wines & Spirits of today.

The store is located in the heart of Lutherville-Timonium, so Kutlik's clientele is mostly mature, well-established local families. "That being said," he remarked, "we have a full cross section. There is a Light Rail Station close by bringing us urban resi-dents, and we are close to [Towson State University], Loyola, and Goucher colleges, bringing us young consumers. Our advertis-ing is pretty extensive so we can draw folks from as far away as

Pennsylvania."And these folks have kept coming, even in the era of the coro-

navirus. Like so many of you reading this, business has changed dramatically amid government restrictions, social distancing, and diminished consumer spending. For Kutlik and his staff, it's been one of the bumpiest roads to navigate ever. But navigate they have.

"At the beginning of the crisis," he said, "we experienced a lot of panic buying. In the initial weeks of Maryland's State of Emergency, sales easily exceeded our holiday sales. People were not buying a 30-pack of beer; they would buy five or 10 30-packs, not bottles of wine and liquor. The consumer obviously feared that liquor stores might soon be closed.

He continued, "Ours is a neighborhood store so things are tight under normal circumstances. But with all those customers coming in at once, my management and staff started expressing concerns about their and our customer's safety."

To best protect his staff and the paying public, Ridgely Wines & Spirits quickly adopted a "contact-less, curbside service" policy with reduced store hours. "It took a little time to perfect," Kutlik conceded, "but we were able to bring it to a point of running

BY TEDDY DURGIN

M artin "Marty" Kutlik got into the beverage alcohol business right out of high school in 1977. While others his age were watching Luke Skywalker blow up the Death Star that summer or the Bandit run circles around Smokey, Kutlik was working long hours as a cashier/clerk at Dutch Liquors in Parkville. Four years later, he landed a job as a salesman with McCarthy-

Hicks, then Maryland distributor for Seagram's brands.

MARTY KUTLIK: A CUT ABOVE THE REST

(continued on page 28)

Page 28: June 2020€¦ · MSLBA is the multicultural, go-to organization for Maryland retail alcohol beverage industry issues. No matter how proficient you are at the operations and management

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A NEW BLEND of BOURBON MAKERS

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seamlessly. It's intense, taking twice as long to wait on a customer, but it was the right thing to do. We have always offered delivery. And, as you might imagine, that is in high demand right now [this interview was conducted in late April]. Our employ-ees have been provided with [personal protective equipment], and the store is kept sanitized throughout the day."

Customers have been coming to Ridgely because of its service, product selection, and competitive prices. Of course, 34 consecutive years of continu-ous ownership has also helped create brand loyalty. In those more than three decades, Kutlik has seen his share of

changes. The biggest? "That would have to be the 'Post & Hold and Multi-case Discounting' ruling. Retailers were forced to change their buying patterns and dig up more money and space. At RW&S, I re-capitalized my business and purchased heavy-duty storage racks to take advan-tage of the unused overhead space in our backroom. … But the most challenging thing, still today, would have to be pro-tecting our interests in Annapolis. Threats to the small guy in our business are non-stop; you can't drop your guard for one minute."

This has prompted Kutlik to become politically active over the years. He served

as President of the Baltimore County Li-censed Beverage Association (BCLBA) from 2002 to 2004. Three years later, he served as President of the Maryland State Licensed Beverage Association (MSLBA) until 2009. He currently chairs BCLBA's Political Action Committee.

He has especially fond memories of his days at the helm of the MSLBA. "MSL-BA has perfected the art of protecting licensees," he remarked. "I challenge all non-members to join, because everyone needs to do their part. This is our watch, and we need to make sure that nothing bad happens on our watch!"

He added, "The thing I recall most was how organized and effective Jane Springer, the Executive Director, and her staff were!" he exclaimed. "They made me look good. The proudest thing would have to be when I had the privilege of naming Tom 'Goose' Kaiser as 'Man of the Year.' That man is an industry giant!"

Along the way he has taken inspira-tion, even counsel, from people like Kai-ser and others. So, was there some busi-ness advice given to Kutlik early on that has stuck with him over the years? "Yes! Carl Yarema, the gentleman who I bought the store from told me: 'Marty, custom-ers are easy to lose … hard to get … and even harder to get back!" n

MSLBA New Logos 050703.qxd 5/10/2003 7:50 AM Page 1

Is Your Establishment a Member of the Maryland State Licensed Beverage Association (MSLBA)?

MSLBA—Representing Alcohol Beverage Licensees since 1950

MSLBA is the multicultural, go-to organization for Maryland retail alcohol beverage industry issues. No matter how proficient you are at the operations and management of your business, many factors influencing your success are outside your direct control. Your best chance for competently and successfully dealing with external forces such as legislation, regulation, suppliers, enforcement agencies and prohibition efforts, is by joining with other retailers for reputable representation through MSLBA.

Contact MSLBA for Membership Information:

Phone: (410) 871-1377 • FAX: (410) 871-2545 • E-Mail: [email protected] Please provide the following: Name of County or City Alcohol Licensing Board for Your Establishment: ___________________________ Your Name: ____________________________________ Phone: ( ) _________________________ Business Name: __________________________________________________________________________ Business Physical Address: _________________________________________________________________

Is Your Establishment a Member of the Maryland State Licensed Beverage Association (MSLBA)?

MSLBA—Representing Alcohol Beverage Licensees since 1950 One of Many Achievements - "MSLBA has kept the playing field even" for independent alcohol beverage retailers by repeatedly defeating chain store legislation

MSLBA is the multicultural, go-to organization for Maryland retail alcohol beverage industry issues. No matter how proficient you are at the operations and management of your business, many factors influencing your success are outside your direct control. Your best chance for competently and successfully dealing with external forces such as legislation, regulation, suppliers, enforcement agencies and prohibition efforts, is by joining with other retailers for reputable representation through MSLBA.

Contact MSLBA for Membership Information:

Phone: (410) 871-1377 • FAX: (410) 871-2545 • E-Mail: [email protected]

Please provide the following: Name of County or City Alcohol Licensing Board for Your Establishment: ____________________________ Your Name: _____________________________________ Phone: ( ) _________________________ Business Name: ___________________________________________________________________________ Business Physical Address: __________________________________________________________________

Message from Marty Kutlik of Ridgely Wine & Spirits:

"Threats to the small guy in our business are non-stop; you can't drop your guard for one minute ... I challenge all non-members to join, because everyone needs to do their part.

This is our watch, and we need to make sure that nothing bad happens on our watch!"

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30 BEVERAGE JOURNAL June 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com

WINE BUZ Z

ORGANIC WINE GOES INSIDE THE BOXOn Earth Day 2020, America saw the introduction of not one but two new premium box wines made from organically

grown grapes. The commitment of established brands to the bag-in-box format fit the Earth Day sentiment perfectly, and moving forward helps reinforce the notion that box wine is now mainstream in America.

Our Daily Wines, the #1 USDA certified organic wine in the U.S., released its popular Our Daily Cabernet Sauvignon in a convenient, eco-friendly 1.5L bag-in-box, joining the Our Daily Red Blend in the same format; SRP for both is $17.99. Our Daily wines are also vegan, gluten-free with no added preservatives and no detectible sulfites. Founded in 1989, Our Daily Wines has been committed to organic, environmentally-friendly practices for more than three decades. ourdailywines.com

Meanwhile, Natural Origins arrived as part of an overarching “natural” strategy at Domaine Bousquet, Argentina’s leading organic winery. Natural Origins Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon hit the shelves nationwide in April; Chardonnay and a Rosé are expected in time for summer. Though no vintage is on the box, fruit for the reds is from the 2019 harvest, while the Chardonnay and Rosé are fresh o� the 2020 harvest. The colorful packaging features a Tree of Life and the 3L box fits comfortably on a retail shelf designed to hold an upright wine bottle. SRP $20. domainebousquet.com

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19 CRIMES HOOKS UP WITH SNOOP DOGG19 Crimes, the first winery that used augmented reality to bring their labels to life, continues to disrupt the market, kicking o� a partnership with popular entertainer Snoop Dogg named Snoop Cali Red. The line extension will cast a contemporary lens on 19 Crimes, a brand inspired by the convicts turned colonists that built Australia. John Wardley, Treasury Wine Estates vice president of marketing, noted, “Snoop embodies the spirit of 19 Crimes—rule breaking, culture creating and overcoming adversity.”

Snoop Dogg has released 19 studio albums, sold over 40-million albums worldwide, and received 20 Grammy nominations; in addition to his work in music, he has made his mark in television and film both on-air and as a producer.

BAREFOOT’S PRIDE ON TRACK{EVEN WITHOUT A PARADE}Continuing the brand’s longtime support of the LGBTQ+ community, Barefoot has launched a limited-edition Pride Packaging Collection. The collection of four unique designs on bottles of Barefoot Brut Rosé Champagne honors the strength and resilience of the LGBTQ+ community. A portion of the proceeds, up to $60,000, will benefit Free Mom Hugs, a non-profit working toward full a� irmation and equality for all. In addition to educational programs, Free Mom Hugs annually embarks on its signature Free Mom Hugs Tour visiting cities and sites of historical significance to the LGBTQ+ community. This year, Barefoot will be a proud supporter as the tour becomes a virtual experience. barefootwines.com

Both box wines

are also vegan and will stay fresh for four

weeks.

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Thinking of Selling your Business?

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32 BEVERAGE JOURNAL June 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com

M A R K E T S H O T S

BREAKTHRU BEVERAGE AND PARTNERS SUPPORTING COVID-19 RELIEF

Moët Hennessy has been supporting hospitals and medical staff in its host

countries worldwide to help fight COVID-19. They've also made financial

donations to the United States Bartenders' Guild (USBG) and the National Restaurant

Association Educational Foundation’s Employee Relief Fund, which helps to

provide financial respite to those who have lost their jobs.

Woodinville Distillery has transitioned from making bourbon and rye, to creating hand sanitizer. The sanitizer will be donated to the Breakthru Beverage Maryland team members (including the sales and merchandising teams), members of the trade in need, and to members of the Prince Georges County police department.