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by DAVID LIPKE and JEAN E. PALMIERI

Vintage RevolutionDenim blends, canvas jeans and in-stock programs are key draws for fall.

Vintage Revolution was launched in late 2009 by Ropa Siete Leguas, a major Mexican denim manufac-turer that has produced jeans for a who’s who of brands such as Ralph Lauren, Gap, Lucky Brand and Levi’s. The company operates its 2.2 million-square-foot denim pro-duction facility in Torreon, Mexi-co, which gives it a leg up when it comes to quick turnarounds of re-orders and stocking inventory.

“I’m hearing from a lot of retail-ers that they are optimistic for this coming season, but they’re still looking to chase winners and re-main conservative with their own inventory,” said Michael Press, president of Vintage Revolution, which is based in New York.

For fall, the brand is adding a Tencel blend from Cone Denim to its jeans lineup. Also new is a stretch fabric from Cone Denim. Canvas has been a big part of Vin-tage Revolution’s growth, and the category represents over 35 per-cent of total sales. Also for fall, the company is introducing 10 new colors in its canvas program, in evocatively named shades like black coffee, duffel bag green and shiitake mushroom brown.

The canvas jeans retail for $118 and the denim for $128 to $142. The brand is currently sold in 475 stores, including Blooming-dale’s, Saks Fifth Avenue, Nord-strom and E Street Denim.

Shirt by ShirtTurkey’s SBS can produce one

million shirts a month.

Based in Turkey, Shirt by Shirt (SBS) is a vertically integrated company that produces apparel for a range of international fashion brands,

including Forever 21, Zara, H&M, Guess and French Connection. The company makes 250,000 shirts a month in its own facto-ries and owns the capacity to make one million shirts a month through its extended facility part-nerships in Asia.

The company operates two of its own brands: the upscale, con-temporary Shirt by Shirt and the more casual and trendy Just a Cheap Shirt, or J.A.C.H.S.

Shirt by Shirt tops retail for $119 to $179 and are currently sold in about 300 U.S. stores, including Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom. J.A.C.H.S., which encompasses a full sportswear col-lection, has shirts that retail for $39 to $79, denim from $59 to $79 and chinos from $49 to $59. The brand is in about 1,100 doors in the U.S., including Nordstrom, Von Maur, Kitson, Atrium and Lisa Kline.

“All our shirts have lots of hanger appeal, with contrast cuffs

and contrast taping,” said Hayati Banashi, co-founder and presi-dent of Shirt by Shirt. “For fall, mini-plaids and lots of greens and burgundies are key trends for us.”

Franklin + GowerFirst fall foray for colorful

California-themed brand.

Named for a cross-street in Los Angeles that offers a bird’s-eye view of the Hollywood sign, Franklin + Gower doesn’t stray far from its California roots.

The line, founded by long-time friends Paco McCauley and Eduardo A. Braniff, offers brightly colored jackets and pants that are designed to make a statement. Originally launched as only an online play, the company is now branching out into traditional wholesaling, showing a line at ENK that will “take the brand to the next level,” according to McCauley. “We real-ized that there really wasn’t anything with a California vibe that was afford-able.” So, Frank-lin + Gower will offer its first fall collection of “tricked out” jackets and pants in 14-wale corduroy, flannel and light-weight wool. “The brand has always been about fun,” he said. Retail prices included jackets for $395 to $595 and pants for $185 to $275.

In addition to the regular line, which features colorful piping

and lively patterns for linings and under collars, the brand offers retailers the ability to customize any items, McCauley said.

Johnny FarahLebanese businessman to

show custom-designed bags,

belts and wallets.

Johnny Farah may live and work in Lebanon, but his rustic take on leather goods is more than appropri-ate for the American market. Farah was influenced early in life by Scan-dinavian architecture and furniture. Originally on a path to become a mechanical engineer, his time in Denmark made him change gears and take up the leather trade. Today, Farah still hand-makes all of his de-

signs in his Lebanese workshop using Italian vegetable oil-tanned saddle leather, as well as custom-designed hardware forged by

metalsmiths. At ENK, Farah

will be showing bags, belts and wallets from his

men’s collection. Retail prices for belts range from $150 to $400 and bags will sell for $300 to $1,000.

Beyond his Johnny Farah col-lection, the entrepreneur owns five If stores in New York’s SoHo neighborhood, Beirut and Dubai, as well as an organic farm and two restaurants.

ONES TO WATCH

Noteworthy Additions to ENKNYCFrom California-cool jackets to new denim features, the show will offer brands in a variety of categories.

Vintage Revolution

Franklin + Gower

Johnny Farah

Shirt by Shirt

Men’s Week4 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 13, 2011

by DAVID LIPKE

ENKNYC continues to grow this season and will host 254 brands at The Tunnel/La Venue from Jan. 16 to 18, up from 242 in July and 182 the previous season.

“We see some good momentum, and this year got off to a good start at our women’s Accessorie Circuit and Intermezzo shows this week,” said Elyse Kroll, chairman and chief creative officer of ENK International. “We’ve actually been surprised by how busy we’ve been. I think both vendors and buyers are going into this season…incredibly hopeful.”

Like last season, ENKNYC — which em-phasizes men’s brands — is divided into four distinct sub-shows, grouping similar brands together. The Designer’s Collective area will be focused on tailored clothing and sports-wear collections, such as Ted Baker, Nicole

Farhi, Transit Uomo and Orthodox. Blue tar-gets denim and progressive labels, such as Current/Elliott, Vince, Sundek and Boast. The Tomorrow section showcases younger, emerg-ing labels, including Klaxon Howl, Andrew Buckler, Kill City and Barque. Clean offers up grooming ranges, such as Nickel and Costume National fragrances.

This season, the Tomorrow section has been relocated to the main show floor from the upstairs space in which it was situated last season. Brands that show in Tomorrow are given special reduced rates in order to promote new designers.

“We subsidize the brands in Tomorrow — it’s like a scholarship of sorts,” explained Kroll. “We need to do this because, while stores are selling safe brands, I think we need to get them excited about selling new lines and designers. If we are not in the forefront of in-troducing new lines, then we are not providing as great a service to retailers as we should be.”

ENK introduced a smartphone app this week at its Accessorie Circuit and Intermezzo shows, and will offer a similar app for the ENKNYC show. Visitors will be given a password upon entering the show that will allow them to download interactive show guides and floor maps onto their iPhones, BlackBerrys or Android devices. “It’s a very cool app, and I think it’s taken our shows to the next level,” said Kroll.

Like other shows, ENK is also in the pro-cess of building a Web platform for its shows that will allow vendors and buyers to inter-act online. “We are working on it every single day, but I don’t know that we want to be the first one out of the gate with it. We’re thinking long and hard about what we want to create online. But it will be a tool that allows you to work together when you are away from the actual show,” said Kroll.

ENKNYC Grows Trade Show Footprint for Upcoming EventOver 250 brands to be showcased at The Tunnel/La Venue.

“While stores are selling safe brands, I think we need to get them excited about selling new lines and designers.”

— Elyse Kroll

Elyse Kroll will introduce a smartphone

app for ENKNYC visitors.

TUNNELVENUETHETT ALL

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ANGEL SCHLESSER • ANTHONY PETO • APROPO STUDIO • ARCHIVE 1887 • ARMAND BASI • ARNOLD ZIMBERG • ARTFUL DODGER • ARTISAN DE LUXEASMAR GROUP • AUTUMN CASHMERE • AVALON GROUP • AVONT-TOI • BARQUE • BED STU / EVOLUTIONS FOOTWEAR

BEN MINKOFF • BENSON • BERTIGO • BERYLL CORP • BEYOND CLOSET • BIG STAR JEANS USA, INC • BLACK DOG SHOWROOM • BLKSMTH BLOCK HEADWEAR • BLOOD IS THE NEW BLACK • BLUE AGENCY • BOAST USA • BOGOSSE • BOIS • BRAVE LEATHER

BYRD & BRONSON • CALVIN KLEIN FOOTWEAR • CALVIN KLEIN JEANS FOOTWEAR • CAMARLINGHI • CANTERBURY OF NEW ZEALAND CAPOBIANCO LIFESTYLE • CARAPACE • CEMENT POWER • CHA-CHA’S HOUSE OF ILL REPUTE • CHAN LUU

CHRISTOPHER FISCHER • CITIZENS OF HUMANITY • CIVIL SOCIETY CLOTHING • CLOSED • COLORFAST APPAREL • CONVERSE APPAREL CONVERSE WATCHES AND BAGS • COSTUME NATIONAL • COTTES D ARMES • CPT BY COCKPIT • CROSSLEY • CULTURATA • CURRENT/ELLIOTT

D.GNAK • DEMON RIFF • DENIM AREA SHOWROOM • DEPT BV USA • DESIGUAL • DJP MEN’S • DOCTRINE JEANS DOPPELGANGER • DRIFTER • DS DUNDEE • ENTE MODA ITALIA • ESP SHOWROOM • FALIERO SARTI • FARHI BY NICOLE FARHI • FIRST STANDARD

FORM VS FUNCTION • FRANKLIN + GOWER • FRED PERRY • FREEDMAN DENIM • FRENCH CONNECTION • FRYE GALLERY SHOWROOM NYC • GARY WILLIAMS SHOWROOM • GEAR3 BY SAEN • GIORGIO BRATO • GOTI • GREEN LANTERN MOVIE • GYPSY 05

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J.C. RAGS • JACKS AND JOKERS 52 LLC • JAMES CAMPBELL • JARED LANG • JEFFREY SCHWAGER SHOWROOM JEREMY ARGYLE NYC • JESUS DEL POZO • JIMLAR CORP • JOE’S JEANS INC • JOHNNY FARAH • JUMA • JUST A CHEAP SHIRT • JW BRINE

KANGOL HEADWEAR • KASCADE SHOWROOM • KILL CITY • KING BABY STUDIO • KLAXON HOWL • KRANE • LARS ANDERSSON LEATHER ISLAND DESIGNED BY BILL LAVIN • LIFE AFTER DENIM • LITTLE BROOKLYN • LOTUFF & CLEGG LEATHERWORKS

M. COHEN HANDMADE DESIGNS • M0851 • M76 • MAJESTIC THREADS • MANDARINA DUCK • MARKET SHOWROOM • MARTIN GORDON MASTEI FERRATI • MAVI • MAXIME COSSOGUY DROWNING IN MY SLEEP • MIGUEL ANTOINNE • MOBILE SHOWROOM

MONROW MENS • NAMASTE SHOWROOM • NANI BON • NEW YORK SHAVING COMPANY • NICHE 212 SHOWROOM • NICKEL SKINCARE NICOLE FARHI • NICOLE FARHI ACCESSORIES • NOBIS • NUCO • NUMBER:LAB • ODORI • OLIVER RAYN • OPTIONS FROM MATT TOTILLO

ORCIANI • ORGANICO SHOWROOM • ORIGINAL PENGUIN • ORIGINAL RETRO BRAND • ORTHODOX • OW SOCKS PAIGE DENIM • PARAJUMPERS • PARK SHOWROOM • PASTE • PERCH COLLECTIVE • PETER BARTON • PORTLAND COLLECTION BY PENDLETON POST-

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TOUS • TRACY WATTS • TRANSIT UOMO • TRUE COLLABORATIVE FASHION LLC • TRUZZI • TUMI OUTERWEAR • TWEEN ULRICH LANG NEW YORK • UNION • V. FRAAS • VALDOGLIO • VANESSA DEE • VELVETMEN • VICTORINOX • VINCE • VINCE GONZALES INC

VINTAGE 55 • VINTAGE REVOLUTION • VINTAGE SHOE COMPANY • VITAMAN • WALK-OVER • WARLOP • WET CEMENT CLOTHING • WICKED QUICK WILL LEATHER GOODS • YARNZ • Z BRAND INTERNATIONAL • ZACHARY PRELL • ZERO + MARIA CORNEJO

28TH STREET @ 11TH AVENUE / JAN 16 • 17 • 18 2011 ENKSHOWS.COM \ BUYERS@ENKSHOWS.COM

Men’s Week6 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 13, 2011

HardEdge

Victorinox’s cotton, polyester and nylon coat,

Number Lab’s wool jacket and cotton shirt and

Hudson Jeans’ cotton denim jeans.

IRO’s wool suit and

cotton shirt.

Manufacturers exhibiting in

the ENKNYC show next week

are showing clean, edgy looks

that are simple and elegant —

outerwear with sleek details,

formfi tting tailored clothing

and lots of leather for that

rebel touch. By ALEX BADIA

Men’s Week 7WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 13, 2011

Photos by JEFFREY COHEN

Canterbury of New Zealand’s wool jacket,

Tween’s cotton shirt and Ted Baker’s

wool pants. Orciani gloves.

CPT by Cockpit USA’s wool and leather

jacket, Nicole Farhi’s cotton shirt and

J Brand’s cotton denim jeans. Orciani gloves.

MOD

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: LUI

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Men’s WeekWWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 13, 20118

Ermenegildo Zegna

“Silhouettes are defined by

straight-shouldered, three-

button suits and jackets, as

well as streamlined high-

cuff trousers, to be worn

with snug raglan overcoats.

The sporting attitude is

echoed by utility touches

and tweed-effect or macro

Prince of Wales fabrics.

Moving away from their usual

roughness, Zegna reinvents them as

sumptuous, bicolor ‘Cashmere Duo.’

The new ‘Cashco Goffrato’ waffle

fabric makes its debut, interweaving

worn-looking cotton and wool.

The outerwear is nonchalant

and practical, with waxed cotton

and leather peacoats as well as

buffed-off shearling duffle coats.

Many handcrafted cashmere

sweaters, some of them with suede

embroideries, are inspired from

ancient Chinese paintings.”

— Anna Zegna, image director

Emporio Armani

“An industrial setting. Cement,

metal, textured surfaces and

paints. The vast color palette

doesn’t include black. These

are the elements that inspired

me for a collection that is fluid,

dynamic, dedicated to a young

man who lives in a contemporary

reality and chooses easy,

practical, strong clothes, always

paying attention to details. Like

the essential gray mélange trench

in laser-cut wool.”

— Giorgio Armani

Neil Barrett

“My inspiration was scuba,

peacoats and military snow

patrols. When experimenting

with hybrids of garments, the

options are endless.”

— Neil Barrett

Designers Prep for Milan Men’s Shows From modern interpretations of the British dandy to influences derived from nature, men’s designers share their inspirations for fall.

Salvatore

Ferragamo

“Chic is a blending

of tradition and

modernity, soft and

rigorous, warm and

cold — a mixture

of characters, a

prodigious balancing

act that becomes

an exclusive

lifestyle. The new

world of Salvatore

Ferragamo.”

— Massimiliano

Giornetti

Autumn Winter 2011 Men’s collection,

17 January to 15 February 2010.

For appointments please contact

info@malo.it or +39 02 73 89 701.

Showroom, Via Archimede 26, Milan.

Under new ownership from 30 09 2010.

Men’s Week10 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 13, 2011

Missoni

“Our man is attracted

to nature, in line

with Missoni’s DNA,

but always remains

contemporary at heart.”

— Angela Missoni

Etro

“Frederick II of Svevia, the King of Paisley:

a modern metaphor for art, life, culture and

passion; an unexpected yet extraordinary

encounter between India and Mitteleuropa.”

— Kean Etro

Z Zegna

“The ever-present virtuoso craftsmanship of the Z Zegna

brand skillfully mixes deconstructed and ‘boxy’ outerwear.

Trousers are wide at the hip and slim at the ankle, creating

a new male silhouette — striking yet slender. Coats are

short, either three buttoned or double breasted. Many

of them are offered in a more fluid, scarf-neck-lined

version hinting at the shape of a cardigan. Squared and

protective cuts characterize the ample choice of overcoats

and outerwear, alternating high-seamed leather jackets

and more hybrid garments, like peacoats made with a

remarkable jersey in a heavy 800 grams.”

— Alessandro Sartori, creative director

Moncler Gamme Bleu

“Hunting and horseback riding

specifically for Moncler”

— Thom Browne, designer

For more inspirations, see WWD.com/menswear-news

Men’s WeekWWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 13, 201112

Following stellar results on men’s acces-sories in the run-up to Christmas, Liberty in late February will open a new room housing men’s soft tailoring and accessories.

Keeping the ever-more body-conscious — and younger — customer in mind, slimmer silhouettes will be key for suits for fall-winter 2011-12, according to Tom Kalenderian, ex-ecutive vice president and general merchan-dise manager of men’s and Chelsea Passage for Barneys New York.

Also citing a strong fourth quarter, with healthy sales of accessories and footwear, Kalenderian said a considerable improve-ment in tailored clothing — one of the busi-nesses that has suffered the most over the past two years — has had a halo effect on comple-mentary products such as ties. “There is a message in that we have to take the business more toward fashion and less classic,” he said. Kalenderian lauded Cucinelli’s autumnal shades of mink or taupe, “almost cashmere colors,” along with a sunset orange, yellow and denim blues, “so you get this pop of color.”

Eric Jennings, vice president and fashion director of men’s for Saks Fifth Avenue, said that after holding off for a couple of seasons due to the recession, men want to replace

holes in their wardrobe, whether for suits or sportswear. Among the main challenges for the sector, however, are the price hikes instituted by vendors following steep increases on raw materials and piece goods, many of which have risen by up to 30 percent. “I think the vendors are very cog-nizant of [the situation] and will partner with us, and we won’t get sticker shock this season, but it’s a huge factor,” he said.

As royal wedding mania bubbles, the British look proved a key direction in tailored cloth-ing at the show, with a resur-gence of rugged, dry fabrics that ranged from Fair Isle motifs, plaids and tartans to herring-bones and Harris Tweeds.

“Men’s wear is having a re-

surgence in high taste. Italian tailors love Scottish tartans and British woolens, and

around the world there is tremendous respect for British tailoring. When

you think of the suit of armor, the mind goes to Savile Row,” said Kalenderian.

Cucinelli, whose classic oat-meal v-neck sweater was worn by Prince William for the of-ficial royal engagement pho-tos by Mario Testino, intro-duced colored knits inspired by the English countryside at Pitti. Also creating a buzz was British designer Nigel Cabourn’s launch of a three-year collaboration with U.S. outerwear specialist Eddie Bauer. Produced in Canada,

the collection includes vests with

Harris Tweed inserts and coyote-fur-lined hoods, as well as archive Bauer down jackets in washed leather with Woolrich fabric pan-els. Retail prices start from around $1,400. Cabourn also introduced a second partner-ship with Brady bags featuring British shoot-ing and fishing styles pepped up by modern elongated shapes.

Other noteworthy trends at the show included:

Vests with bright Shetland knit pan-els by Jamieson’s at British heritage brand Penfield, along with its fledgling Reworks line offering tailored outerwear aimed at top-tier distribution.

Ballantyne’s debut collection under new creative director Yossi Cohen featured tailored, textured and washed knitwear in-spired by Scottish landscapes.

C.P. Company gave the iconic Goggle

Strong holiday season leads to optimism for future, especially for brands embracing heritage trend, British tailoring.

Retailers Bump Up Budgets at Pitti Uomo

Outerwear evokes brands’ leather goods heritage.As guest designer at Pitti Uomo here Wednesday night, Trussardi’s 100th anniversa-ry show could have left the door open to a clichéd retrospective, yet designer Milan Vukmirovic opted to showcase a tantalizing glimpse of the future — and it was sleek.

Although head-to-toe leather may not be everybody’s sartorial cup of tea, in Vukmirovic’s hands the concise outerwear collection was an urban antidote to men’s wear’s fascination with the rugged outdoors.

The house’s origins as an artisan glove manufacturer were apparent in beauti-fully worked soft leather and suede windbreakers and blousons that emulated tech-nical fabrics. A contrast to the low-key separates were an array of tactile shearling jackets and coats that bolstered the clean lineup and injected a softer side fitting with the evening’s retrospective mood.

Accessories including camouflage embossed bags, combat boots and contrast colored sneakers upped the collection’s commercial factor. This being a celebra-tion, however, the show’s final exit — a slim tuxedo with leather lapels — appro-priately resembled the maison’s historical symbol, a sleek greyhound, who made a well-received appearance and underlined that this is one brand intending to go the distance.

Urban Slick

{Continued from page one}Hugo Boss

Selection

Pitti Liberty

Herno

Trussardi

{Continued on page 14}

JANUARYON NEWSSTANDS NOW

JUNECLOSE: MAY 12

MARCHCLOSE: FEBRUARY 9

SEPTEMBERCLOSE: AUGUST 17

PH

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MARCH ISSUE

For more information on advertising in Menswear, contact Marc Berger, publisher, at 212 630-4831, or your Menswear salesperson.

ALL ABOUT FALL

» Runway Report

» Trendspotting

» Wardrobe Essentials

Men’s Week14 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 13, 2011

jacket a makeover, reworked in British Millerain fabrics to give it an outdoors feel. The brand’s trademark urban jacket styles had a rugged feel with Shetland wool panels, waxed cotton sleeves, resin-coated nylon and cord collars.

Isaia introduced a full tartan collection, including three prints that have been regis-tered with the Scottish Register of Tartans.

Church Footwear, which will open its first women’s shoe store in London this spring, on New Bond Street, showcased distressed reproductions of classic archive styles, such as the Derby and the Oxford.

Barbour launched The Barbour Steve

McQueen Collection, honoring the 75th an-niversary of the brand’s motorcycle jacket worn by McQueen for his motocross trials in Europe.

Mackintosh, which later this month will open its first flagship on Mount Street in London, launched a celebratory capsule line using British fabrics, dubbed 104 after the store’s street number, comprising six iconic pieces over four fabrics. These in-clude a reinterpretation of the duffle coat, in Mackintosh rubber, cotton and flannel.

While the men’s wear business has revved back up to cruising speed, no earth-shattering trends loom on the horizon. Instead buyers cited a continuation on last season’s themes

such as vintage, outdoor sports and heritage. Feting its 40th anniversary, for instance, Allegri presented an updated rendition of a trench in water repellent double silk. “There were some amazing Japanese-influenced designers. The Japanese were the ones to bring in this moun-taineering trend, the kind of Nordic motif, and to look into the heritage of companies that originated a certain type of jacket, or denim or shoe; they’re hugely influential,” commented Saks Fifth Avenue’s Jennings.

Other key trends cited by buyers included elegant sportswear, with the continuation of the softly constructed knit jersey sport coat; updated, pliable, deconstructed jackets and blazers, and lightweight and functional tech-nical fabrics that carry the allure of classic men’s wear fabrics.

Tightly edited sportswear lines were im-bued with a sartorial flavor as deconstructed

silhouettes and traditional fabrics proved consumers still have the taste for classic ap-parel, and covert suits. Americana, buffalo plaids, flannels, chinos and military styles were also still prevalent.

“Cable knits are everywhere,” said Liberty’s Ayres, citing a palette of rustic tones for the season, such as olives and burnt oranges. In terms of key accessories, buyers cited canvas bags with leather trims, mixed media items, accessories for mobile devices and cognac colored items.

Among those signaling a very “techy” sea-son, Hannes Hogeman, buyer and co-owner of online and brick-and-mortar Swedish department store Très Bien Shop, admired Japanese brand Nanamica’s wind stopper duffle coat and tailored jackets with triple-layer Gore-Tex to protect against water and wind. “Men like looking under the hood, they want to know the details and the benefits of these fabrics and whenever there’s a story to tell it’s a huge plus,” said Jennings.

Following a four-year hiatus, Hugo Boss was back at the show with a significantly beefed-up Hugo Boss Selection high-end tailored clothing and sportswear collection, featuring refined details and fabrics, such as cashmere blends and baby camel hair. The line retails 30 to 50 percent higher than the main collection. One showpiece coat was made of the rare yangir goat’s hair fiber.

“It needs to send the message about what we are able to do. Not everybody knows that we have built the talent, knowledge and know-how to go high end.…This is much more about the detail, the artisanal approach to developing a product,” said Claus-Dietrich Lahrs, the firm’s chief executive officer, add-ing the brand in the second half will intro-duce a by-appointment, made-to-measure tailored line in certain stores in Europe and Asia, with plans to offer the concept in the United States in 2012. Lahrs also revealed plans to roll out Hugo Boss Selection-only stores, which have already been tested in Singapore, Shanghai and Macau, with plans for a rollout in Asia and beyond.

{Continued from page 12}

Pitti Brands Make MovesRiding the sector’s uptick, brands are ramping up their retail presences and expanding their collaborative efforts.

• Italia Independent unveiled its latest collaboration with belt maker Orciani — buckles — alongside a capsule apparel collection inspired by the 150th anniversary of Italy’s independence featuring tricolor knitted ties and fine knits with patriotic collar detailing. The company also is developing plans for small monobrand boutiques, including one in London, and is in talks with Giuseppe Cipriani to establish a retail base in the U.S.

• Swimwear label Orlebar Brown unveiled new printed styles featuring artwork by graphic designer Alan Aldridge — famous for his Sixties album covers for The Beatles and The Rolling Stones — and revealed it was considering opening pop-up stores in resort spots.

• Umbro and designer Aitor Throup introduced its Archive Research Project, dubbed A.R.P., a seven-piece line that delves into football heritage reworking archived pieces such as Sixties football shirts and drill tops from the Nineties into sleek performance microfiber pieces with thermal seams and detachable hoods that capture the sportswear brand’s traditional tailored roots.

• Jeremy Hackett, co-founder and chairman of British men’s wear brand Hackett, said the company is planning Middle Eastern expansion this year. A Dubai store is set to open in the fall, followed by sites in Qatar and Beirut. He also said the company is in talks with a “very strong American partner” to launch in the U.S., and has recently inked a deal to open a store in Milan.

— Katya Foreman and Kerry Olsen

HERITAGE TREND CONTINUES TO FIND FANS AT MEN’S SHOWSteve McQueen inspired a

new collection by Barbour.

Façonnable

Brunello

Cucinelli

Orlebar Brown

PHOT

OS B

Y DA

VIDE

MAE

STRI

Men’s Week WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 13, 2011 15

ew Yorkers like to amuse themselves with irony, as in, “Let’s dress up like rednecks and watch them get bucked by an 1,800-pound bull.”

Their chance came last weekend when the Professional Bull Riders opened its 2011 Built Ford Tough Series with a three-day invitational at Madison Square Garden. Forty of the world’s top bull riders went head-to-head with 40 of the world’s most buck-wild bulls, ideally for at least eight seconds. Otherwise, kiss the po-tential $46,000 payday goodbye.

Believe it or not, New York is the PBR’s bestseller on the 28-city circuit — bigger than Arlington, Tex.; Wichita, Kan., and even Las Vegas. That’s due in part to the fact that MSG is the tour’s largest, most high-profile venue. But also because, as Dockery Clark, chief marketing officer of PBR (not to be confused with Pabst Blue Ribbon, though they’re of the same world) put it: “We like to think there’s a little bit of cowboy in all of us. New Yorkers like to put on the jeans and the boots and do something they don’t get to do all the time.”

On Friday night, the Garden was stocked with grown men and little boys in full-on hoedown getups. Joe Macri, 30, and John Monahan, 28, were part of a group of 20 who decided to “get into character,” as Macri, from Queens, called it. They wore flannel shirts, jean jackets and cowboy hats, which, conve-niently, Monahan already owned from his last trip to a rodeo. A devout sports fan, Monahan “doesn’t stray from the big

four” unless it’s free, which it was, in this case. Monahan and Macri, who work in advertising, were hosted by a client who covered their tickets and unlimited Jack Daniels and Budweiser. The feeling of superiority that goes with being a city boy among country folk was a bonus.

“It was definitely more like a novelty event,” said Monahan. “I’m not going to pay attention to how they were scored or

why they did well. It’s more just to see people riding bulls.”

Admittedly, the idea of mocking bumpkins on bulls was part of the editorial agen-da on my part, too, at first.

But up close, those bulls are big-ger and badder than one would think. Ramsay Moreland, 30, equated it to NASCAR. “You could never describe how fast it is until you’ve seen it in person.”

Then there was the cute bumpkin Shane Proctor, who was ranked 13th in the PBR going into Sunday’s finals, and is the PBR’s go-to cowboy for p.r. Prior to our meeting, all I knew of him was the result of a cursory Google Images search, which produced photos from ESPN The Magazine’s 2009 Body Issue, for which Proctor was shot in nothing but his god-given chaps. He’s also appeared in the PBR Hunks calendar two years in a row.

A bit of a wide-eyed pretty boy, yes, but a tough one. Proctor sees himself in the context of any other professional ath-lete — the only difference is that, to him, bull riding is an extreme sport. “One out of every 15 rides statistically ends up in a new injury,” he says. “You get stuff like broken jaws, broken ribs, cracked shoul-

der blades, dislocated col-larbones, torn ACLs, MCLs, meniscus. I think the most common injury is concus-sions. Happens quite a bit.”

So what’s considered a lightning rod health concern in the NFL is simply a dime-a-dozen headache here.

Proctor, 25, does it for the adrenaline. And the cash. At the end of the season, the top rider stands to col-lect $1 million, and when Proctor won the Madison Square Garden invi ta -tional last year, he took home close to $50,000, which goes a long way in Mooresville, N.C., where he lives with his wife. This time, he didn’t fare so well, failing to qualify for the final round, but he had a good ride in another sense. PBR brought him up to New York a few days early t o p r o m o t e the event. He sat third row at the Knicks game behind Joe Frazier and took pictures with Clyde Frazier

and Pauly D from “Jersey Shore.” Then it was on to the Rangers, some of whom re-turned the favor by coming to the PBR.

Throughout the trip, Proctor was never caught in anything less than the full Southern monty, even if it invites stares. “They call me the best-dressed cowboy,” he

said. “Gotta look your best in New York.” As soon as he got here, he ran off to buy a Calvin

Klein shirt. He favors Big Star, Seven and Diesel jeans — boot cut, always with a creased leg — a Greeley hat and Rios of Mercedes stingray cowboy boots. But really, “it’s all about the buckle,” he said with good reason. The buckle Proctor wanted to wear to New York is in the shop after being stepped on by a bull — while he was wearing it. “But thank God,” he said. “Otherwise it would have been my gut.”

Country StrongBackwoods in the big city and proud of it.

Boys’ Night Out

By Jessica Iredale

Not on the RunwayDon’t expect a Gianfranco Ferré runway show during the upcoming men’s fashion week in Milan. The company — which is in a transitional phase now that its new owner, Prodos Capital Management LLC, is looking for a new industrial partner after Samsung pulled out of the deal — has opted for a presentation on Sunday. Held in Ferré’s headquarters, the presentation is scheduled from 9:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.

Auction ActionDubbed the “man with the golden gavel” by the BBC, auctioneer Simon de Pury has more than one trick up his sleeve. “PuryParisGraphy,” an exhibition of his photography that is a series of close-ups of objects, materials, places and landscapes snapped on his travels, is on show at Parisian concept store Colette until Jan. 29. To celebrate the exhibition, his third, de Pury will put on his DJ hat — or suit, most likely, as he revels in such juxtapositions — for a set from 5:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. on Jan. 19.

Will the Real Nick Hahn Please Stand UpFriends and colleagues of cotton industry veteran Nick Hahn received a surprising e-mail this week. A message, purporting to be from Hahn, flooded the in-boxes of industry contacts requesting “quick funds” to help him return from London after having his identification and credit cards stolen. The only problem? Hahn’s in Connecticut. Reached on Wednesday, the real Hahn, former chief executive officer of Cotton Incorporated, said he believes a hacker used information from a social-networking site to hijack his e-mail address and send bogus e-mails to his entire contact list. “I’ve been getting calls from everyone,” Hahn said. “I can’t even get into my own e-mail.” Hahn said he has contacted Google about the erroneous use of his Gmail address, but the process takes some time to rectify. The number listed in the e-mail that was sent out had a U.K. area code but does not work.

Hermès enlisted François Delarozière, the artistic director of French production company La Machine, to help turn a

dinner at its workshop in the Paris suburb of Pantin into a whimsical affair on Tuesday night. The artist, whose firm is best known for marching a 60-foot mechanical spider through the streets of Liverpool in 2008, didn’t disappoint.

Delarozière devised a series of wrought iron machines, including a wheel made of guitars that strummed as they whirled, to entertain guests, and the night’s waitstaff performed acrobatic feats such as grinding pepper upside down from a rig and dropping sugar cubes in coffee cups via giant fishing rods. Bread rolls, meanwhile, were delivered by catapult, prompting Hermès artistic director Pierre-Alexis Dumas to advise: “If you see a piece of

bread flying in your direction, catch it, because otherwise it will hit you straight in the face.” The meal-cum-performance art helped ring in 2011, which Hermès has dubbed the year of the contemporary artisan.

Though the theme for 2011 was chosen long before LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton acquired a 20 percent chunk of Hermès — and raised fears of a takeover attempt — it fit nicely with the qualities Hermès family shareholders like to think separate the luxe house from the rest of the crowd.

“This year, more than ever, it is good to remember that Hermès stands for a different kind of luxury, a quality which shines from the inside to the outside of every object we make,” Dumas, a descendant of founder Thierry Hermès, asserted.

EYE

IRON MAN

Message bracelets

provide a touch of

youthful athleticism

to classic men’s wear

outfit.

Man of THE WEEK

The ambience at the

Hermès dinner.

The Auburn University quar-terback, who led his team to the BCS national title Monday night, gets an A+ on the field but an A- in the style stakes.

Made-to-measure suit

is slenderizing.

High three-button

stance minimizes

his height.Monogramming is very

Great Gatsby-ish.

Narrower peak lapel would

be more glamorous.

Tie plays with

pattern mixing.

Soft pastel shirt works well

with skin tone.

Brand-whore cuff links are

way too bling-bling.

CAM NEWTON

PROC

TOR

PHOT

OS B

Y M

ATT

BREN

EMAN

/BUL

LSTO

CKM

EDIA

.COM

; HER

MES

PAR

TY B

Y FR

EDER

IC C

HEHU

; NEW

TON

BY K

ELLY

KLI

NE/G

ETTY

IMAG

ES F

OR T

HE H

EISM

AN

Shane Proctor, and above,

Proctor getting buck wild.

Fashion Scoops

N

MANDALAY BAY CONVENTION CENTER FEBRUARY 14TH, 15TH, 16TH 2011

REGISTER NOW AT WWW.MAGICONLINE.COM OR CALL 877.554.4834

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