KasselWood®Installation GuideKasselWood®Installation Guide

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Suggested Tools

Below are some of the tools pictured that may be necessary or helpful for the installation of aKasselWood metal roof.

� Tool bag� Tool belt� Soft brush� Framing square� Appropriate fasteners� Plastic cap nails� Nailing clips� Hammer with rubber end� Wonder bar� Nail puller� Zip tool� Combination square� Screw drivers

Al ways use car dboar d or a soft sur face when wor k i ng on pai nted pi eces.Addi ti onal tool s wi l l be needed to tear off of an exi sti ng r oof.

� Caulking gun� Protective caps� Chalk lines� Sliding T bevel� Utility knife� Rivet gun and rivets� Tape measure� Tin snips� Aviation snips� Cordless drill� Drill b its� Assorted hand flangers� Assorted markers

� Circular saw� Extension cord� Roof jacks� Safety glasses� Gloves� 2’ portable brake� 10’ brake� Ladders� Scaffolding� Fall protection

Page 2 of 26

General Installation Instructions

Use onl y gal vani zed or stai nl ess steelr i ngshank nai l s or scr ews. Fastenersshould be long enough to fully penetratesheathing or at least 1” into solid lumber.KasselWood shingles have 4 integrated tabsfor attachment and interlock on all four sides.

When installing trim pieces other than theStarter Strip, fasten a clip every 12” O.C. onthe return flange. Do not penetrate the waterreturn channels of any of the lineals except forone fastener at the upslope end to preventslippage during and after installation. Do notflatten the return flange.

Uphill flashings should nest inside or overlapdownhill flashings by 3” and be sealed withcolor-matching or clear butyl rubber sealant(Fi g.2 ).

Use only the accessories designed for usewith the panel. Do not install accessories ofdissimilar metal with this system. To protectagainst moisture problems and/ or decay, in-sulate the product from contact with existingmasonry or dissimilar metal by coating withbituminous paint or mastic, or by separatingwith roofing underlayment.

Take care not to scratch the panel’s surface.Touch up paint should be applied to exposedsteel to prevent rust. Do not walk on thepanel’s bottom or side locks. Work fromabove the panels whenever possible.

Roof Layout: Before beginning panel appli-cation, lay out work to minimize cutting andwaste. This can be especially useful in avoid-ing bending or cutting small, difficult pieces,such as when approaching or leaving a valleyor hip. Chalk lines parallel to the ridge to en-sure that courses remain straight and meet atthe top of protrusions such as dormers ( Fi gs.3& 4 ).

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

Fig. 4

Page 3 of 26

General Installation cont.

Regul ar I nstal l ati on Sequence:1. Prepare deck and apply underlayment2. Eave Starter Strip3. Gable Channel4. Valley Flashing5. Sidewall Flashing6. Shingles7. Hip8. Chimney Flashing9. Vent Pipe Flashing

10. Ridge

Safety Consi der ati ons: Caution must be ex-ercised when using ladders. Position the lad-der to extend at least 36” above the point ofsupport, with the base at an angle so that thehorizontal distance from the foot of the ladderto the building is about 1/ 4 the working lengthof the ladder. The ladder should be secured toa permanent part of the roof to ensure safety.Inspect for damaged rungs and examine thelocking system.

Upon reaching the roof, inspect it for workinghazards. Note the presence of loose roofing orweakened substrate, protrusions such as pipeflashings, electrical wiring, nails, stabilizingwires, and extension cords. Look for mossgrowth or dampness that might make the roofslippery.

Power saws, especially on cutbacks, must behandled with extreme caution, and should beused only by experienced installers. Wearshatterproof safety glasses with side protectionwhen using cutting tools. Power saws shouldnot be used to cut steel panels or lineals be-cause the heat generated in cutting will pro-mote the formation of rust. Cut the shingleswith snips, a guillotine shear or power shear.

Always be aware of your position on the roofrelative to your surroundings. Take note of thelocations of roof openings, roof edges, equip-ment, tie-off ropes, co-workers, and other po-tential hazards. Check with local buildingcodes and other authorities for further safetyrequirements.

Fig. 5

Fig. 6

Fig. 7

Fig. 8Page 4 of 26

Deck and Substructure Preparation

Study the diagram in Fi g.9 to be familiar withstandard nomenclature for common roof features.KasselWood shingles require a m i ni m um pi tch of3:12 for proper installation. Half-inch plywood or15/ 32” OSB deck substrate is recommended for bestperformance. Inspect and replace any damageddecking. Adequate ventilation from eave to ridge isnecessary with any type of roofing to facilitate maxi-mum cooling in the summer and prevention of icedamming in cold winter climates.

Application over an existing asphalt roof is accept-able, if permitted by local building code. All asphaltshould be trimmed flush to the eaves and gablesprior to application of new edge flashings. Removalof old metal edge flashings is required. Buckled orcurled shingles should be flattened to provide a levelsurface for shingling.

Fi g.10 shows areas in the continental U.S. where theaverage January temperature is less than 30 degreesFahrenheit. These areas, shaded darkest on the map,require the application of i ce and water shi el d onthe downslope perimeters (eaves), valleys, andaround all penetrations ( Fi g.11 & 12 ). Be sure tocheck with local building codes for specific require-ments. Read manufacturer’s instructions for more ap-plication specifics.

Cl ass A Fi r e Rati ng: To comply with the Floridabuilding code Class A fire rated roof assembly, applyunder the roof panels and over the underlayment, aminimum 1/ 2” water resistant core gypsum sheathingcomplying with ASTM C79, 1/ 4” Georgia-PacificDens-Deck , Elk’s VersaShield ®, or other code-specified underlayment.

Under l aym ent: A minimum of one layer of syntheticunderlayment or one layer of ASTM 30-pound asphalt-saturated felt is required over all roof decking notcovered by ice and water shield. Secure theunderlayment with 1” plastic-top nails 12” O.C.vertically and 16” O.C. horizontally.End laps must be a minimum of 6” and side laps 4” .Be sure to lap each top courses of underlayment overthe course below. Al l per i m eter edges of the r oofshoul d be over l apped by 1” onto the fasci a .Gutters should be installed behi nd the overhangingunderlayment and Starter Strip.

Fig. 9

Fig. 10

Fig. 11

Fig. 12Page 5 of 26

Deck Preparation cont.

Apply ice and water shield the full lengths ofvalleys, overlapping where valleys meet. Reliefcuts should be covered with a patch ( Fi g.13 ). Ata valley location, run the synthetic underlaymentcompletely across so that the courses of under-layment are woven together and lap at least 8”at the top of the preceding ply. Install this un-derlayment loosely in the valley to allow for asmall amount of controlled shrinkage.

Corners that require a relief cutshould be patched or sealed ( Fi g.14 &i nset).

Fi g. 15 shows a chimney with ice and watershield properly wrapped around the sides of thechimney from above.

Run underlayment up the sides of all protru-sions and seal appropriately ( Fi g.16 ).

On walls, underlayment should extend 5” upthe side. Lap underlayment over all r idges andcut appropriate openings for all vents whenready to cover each opening ( Fi g.17 ).

Fig. 13

Fig. 14

Fig. 15

Fig. 17

Fig. 16

Page 6 of 26

Eave Starter Strip

When installing Starter Strip (5102) at the eaves, folddown and/ or fasten 1” of overhanging underlayment,keeping it under the Eave Starter Strip. Form a 1”tab to wrap around the corner of eave/ gable inter-sections ( Fi g.18 ).

Secure Eave Starter Strip by nailing it to the deckevery 12” on centers.

Nail into rafters when the underside of the deck isexposed to view; otherwise nails may penetrate deckand damage the overhang area.

When joining overlapping pieces of Starter Strip,notch back 1” of the drip hem ( Fi g.19 bottom ar -r ow ). Also taper 1” of the leading edge ( m i ddl e ar -r ow ) and bend back the water stop top hem to allowthe pieces to nest together ( top ar r ow ).

Butt pieces together and nailthrough the overlap ( Fi g.20 ).Make sure that the StarterStrip remains straight andsnug against the fascia but donot face nail.

At a hip line, mark the point 1” back from the lead-ing edge of the Starter Strip where it will bendaround the fascia. Notch the kick out on the drip hem(Fi g.21 m i ddl e ar r ow ) and cut a triangular piece outof the top of the Starter Strip ( top ar r ow ). Nailthrough the overlap ( bottom ar r ow ).

At inside corners, notch a 90 degree triangle out ofthe leading edge of the Starter Strip and a lesser an-gle out of the drip hem. Make a straight cut along thevalley line of the nailing flange ( Fi g.22 ar r ows ).

Fig. 18

Fig. 19

Fig. 21

Fig. 22

Fig.20

Page 7 of 26

Gable Edge Trim

There are two opti ons for gable treatments in theKasselWood system. The Gabl e Edge Tr i m (5117),shown in Fi g.23 , offers a clean look and fast, easyshingle installation. The Gabl e Channel (5127)option, seen in Fi g.27 , securely anchors the edges ofthe shingles, avoids the entrapment of debris andhighlights the tapered profile of the shingle.

Gabl e Edge Tr i m : Position the Gable Edge Trim sothat it extends 1/ 2” beyond the Starter Strip ( Fi g.23ar r ows ). This will be necessary for proper waterdrainage through the butt of the shingle.

Fi g.24 shows the appropriate cut lines to be madeat the peak of the first piece of Gable Edge Trim. Letthe piece run 1/ 2” past the centerline on its side faceto lap under the second piece of trim ( bottom ar -r ow ). Also make a tapered tab on the upper face toinsert into the upper face of the second trim piece(top ar r ow ). Bend this tab down at the peak corre-sponding to the roof pitch.

Allow the water return channel to run 2” past theridge. Make a relief cut in the hem of the water re-turn channel at the peak and fold the channel overthe ridge. Secure the Gable Edge Trim to the deckand tight against the fascia of the gable with one nailthrough the channel close to the ridge ( Fi g.25 topar r ow ). Put a dab of sealant over the nail head.

Plumb cut the second piece of Gable Edge Trim butleave a 2” tab to lap over the ridge. Bring the twopieces together at the ridge while inserting the tabfrom the first into the top face of the second. (Openthis face up a little to receive the tab.)

Trim the second lineal to extend over the StarterStrip by 1/ 2” and then nail its tab to the deck at thepeak nested inside of the hem of the first lineal. Sealthe nail head. Attach both lineals with nailing clipsevery 12” on the hem of the water return channel.

Fi g.26 shows the intersection of a Gable Edge Trimwith a piece of Starter Strip. Notice that the upperface of the gable trim needs to be notched back farenough to allow shingles to continue to be installedto the right. (This technique will be subsequentlydiscussed on p.13)

Fig. 23

Fig. 24

Fig. 25

Fig. 26Page 8 of 26

Fig. 27

Fig. 28

Fig. 29

Fig. 30

Gable Channel

Install Gable Channel up the length of the gable.Attach with nail clips every 12” on center. Uphillpieces should always nest inside and on top of down-hill pieces. The overlap should be at least 3” .

Over-bending the length of the Gable Channel be-fore installation can help the lineal to hug the gablefascia better ( Fi g.27 ).

Position the Gable Channel so that a plumb cut canbe made on the gable face of the lineal while leavinga 1/ 2” extension of the water return channel past theStarter Strip ( Fi g.28 l ower ar r ow ).

A sliding T bevel ( upper ar r ow ) can be useful insetting and duplicating the appropriate angle for aplumb cut .

With the lower end of the Gable Channel extending1/ 2” past the Starter Strip, mark a plumb line on theface of the lineal at the peak ( Fi g.29 r i ght ar r ow ).Cut the lineal, leaving 1/ 2” of material past theplumb line on the face and 2” past the ridge.

Make a relief cut in the water return hem at the peakand fold the 2” tab over the ridge. Secure the linealwith one nail through the tab and seal the nail headwith butyl rubber sealant ( top ar r ow ).

A cut must be made in the bottom of the receivingchannel in order to nest the second lineal in from theopposite side ( l eft bottom ar r ow ).

Cut the profile at the Starter Strip end of the secondGable Channel as described above, leaving 1/ 2” ofthe water return channel extending beyond theStarter Strip. Make a plumb cut at the ridge in theface of the lineal ( Fi g.30 top ar r ow ) and allow 2” ofmaterial on top to lap over the ridge. Nest the twochannels and drip hems together ( bottom ar r ow)and nail the folded-over tab to the deck near theridge. Seal the nail head.

Secure both lineals to the deck with nail clips every12” O.C.

Page 9 of 26

Panels into Gable Channel

When installing KasselWood shingles into the 5127Gable Channel, mark the shingle at the butt and atthe top lock where the shingle crosses over the Ga-ble Channel ( Fi g.31 ar r ows & I l l us.1 ). This will bethe bend line.

Also mark the shingle 1 3/ 4” past the channel at thebutt and 1 1/ 4” at the top lock. This will be the cutline ( Fi g.32 ).

Cut the bottom and top locks and bend them openas seen in Fi g.32 and I l l us.2 . Cut off these tabsleaving1/ 8” of material past the bottom and top locksof the shingle. Cut the shingle along the taper lineseen in Fig.32.

With a brake or wide hand flangers, bend the shin-gle down 90 degrees to form a side lock.( I l l us.3 ).Engage the side lock into the groove of the GableChannel as the shingle is locked into place ( I l l us.4 ).

The hem on the water return channel may be de-pressed slightly to enable the shingle to sit flat but donot flatten completely ( Fi g.33 ).

A 1/ 4” high drain will need to be cut in the firstcourse shingle only for the water return channel toprotrude 1/ 2” past the Starter Strip ( see Fi g.23 ).

Fig. 31

Fig. 32

Fig. 33

Fig. 34Page 10 of 26

Shingle Installation

Before panel application, lay out work to mini-mize cutting and waste (e.g. shifting the wholefour course stagger pattern to the right or left toavoid crossing a side lock at a valley bend.)

KasselWood shingles (5101) are installed left to right,eave to ridge. Make sure all clippings and abrasivematerials are swept from the material immediately toprevent scratching.

The bottom edge of the first course of panels hookson to the Starter Strip. Subsequent panel courses in-terlock into place vertically by sliding the under-turned flange of the top course panel into the up-turned flange at the top of the panel below. I t i s i m -per ati ve that shi ngl es be ful l y l ock ed together .Tapping the butt firmly with the rubber end of a ham-mer and using a block of wood on the side of thepanel is highly recommended ( Fi g.36 & i nset). At-tach each panel with four galvanized or stainless steelnails through the integrated nail tabs.

Each panel course will have a vertical exposure of8-5/ 8” . Snapping horizontal lines is highly recom-mended to ensure proper panel position. Chalking aline up 10-1/ 2” from the edge of the starter will ensurethat the tab tops of the first course line up.

Fi g.36 shows the standard KasselWood stagger pat-tern. ( Note: Panel s to the r i ght ar e r em oved fori l l ustr ati on.) The first course begins at the left edgeof the roof with a full panel. The second course be-gins with a half panel, the third with three-quarters,and the fourth course with a quarter panel. The fifthcourse begins the pattern repeat with a full course.

Fi g.37 shows the cut positions corresponding to 1/ 4,1/ 2, and 3/ 4 of a panel. These cuts correspond to tak-ing 30, 20, and 10 inches off the left side of the panel,leaving the right side with its lock to be used in start-ing the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th courses. Note that these cutpositions, conveniently, are each 1/ 4” to the right ofeach corresponding tab (see arrows).

Drain slots must be cut in the first course shingleswhere they cross a water return channel. Flip the

panel to place the cut( Fi g.38 ) and re-move 1/ 4” of the butt above the waterreturn channel (inset).

Fig. 35

Fig. 36

Fig. 37

Fig. 38Page 11 of 26

Staggered Starts

Fi g.39 shows a bump out or a staggered start situa-tion that would cause the top locks of the two roofsections to not align ( ar r ows ). The amount of offsetin this picture amounts to two or three inches.

There are two methods shown on this page for mak-ing up this offset. Both make up the difference at theeave. It is critical that the pr eci se distance to bemade up is known. Temporarily setting shingles inplace from the lower eave can enable this measure-ment to be determined ( Fi g.39 ). Avoid short coursesin the middle of a field.

The first method entails using coil stock to make upthe difference at the eave. The coil should run aminimum of 3” upslope beyond the difference to bemade up. An additional 1” is needed for an under-turned hem to lock on to the Starter Strip. The coilstock will extend horizontally into the gable treat-ment and needs to have a drain slot cut for eachwater return channel ( Fi g .40 ar r ows )

Fasten a piece of anchor strip between the water re-turn channels at the exact distance needed parallel tothe edge of the Starter Strip. Nail every 12” O.C.

Fi g.41 shows this coil stock method with shinglesinstalled and may look best when there is less than 5”or so to make up.

A second method is to install the first course of shin-gles and fasten the anchor strip through the shinglesat the appropriate distance upslope ( Fi g .42 ). Thismethod of applying in a short course at the eave maylook the best when there is more that half a shingle’sheight to be made up.

Fi g.43 shows this short course method with shinglesinstalled.

Fig. 39

Fig. 40

Fig. 41

Fig. 42Fig.43 Page 12 of 26

Damaged Panel Repair

Should a panel become damaged, in most cases theindividual sections can be easily capped over.

Identify the section of panel damaged and use butylrubber sealant to fill any penetrations. Find the cor-responding section of panel from a scrap piece ofpanel if possible.

Score the middle of the rain grooves on each side ofthe section several times ( Fi g.44 ).

Cut the top and bottom locks in line with scoreslines just made ( Fi g.45 ). Open up the top lock andcut off the upturned portion at the crease ( ar r ow ).

Bend the shingle back and forth along the scoredlines to separate the section from the shingle.

Apply a liberal bead of sealant around the entire pe-rimeter of the damaged section ( Fi g.46 ).

Slip the replacement section over the top of thedamaged section. Using the rubber end of a hammeror similar tool, firmly engage the section in place(Fi g.47 ).

Make sure the section is fully inserted under thebottom lock of the shingle above and locked aroundthe bottom lock of the shingle being capped over.

Fig. 44

Fig. 45

Fig. 46

Fig. 47Page 13 of 26

Sidewall and Gable Trim Intersection

A Sidewall and Gable will intersect when a sheddormer without an overhang meets the main roof of ahouse. Care must be given to not allowing water in-filtration at this intersection.

Position the Sidewall to trace the necessary bendand tabs ( Fi g.48 ). Make sure the sidewall water re-turn channel extends 1/ 2” past the Starter Strip.Leave a tab to wrap under the exposed, unpaintedpart of the “ F” channel ( ar r ow ).

Install the Sidewall Channel as seen in Fi g.49 . Nailclips need to be fastened every 12” O.C.

The top of the shingle receiving channel needs to beterminated 1/ 2” before the point where the top lockof the course of shingles coming in from the left inFi g.49 will meet ( l eft ar r ow ). This will allow panelsto be installed across the top of the channel. Measureup from the Starter Strip in increments of 8-5/ 8” tofind this point or temporarily stack panels up to thispoint ( see Fi g.39 ).

Position the Gable Edge Trim so that the water re-ceiving channel extends 1/ 2” beyond the StarterStrip. The drip leg of the Gable Edge Trim cominginto the intersection will need to be tapered andbent out ( Fi g.49 r i ght ar r ow ) to rest upon the top ofthe shingle receiving channel of the Sidewall Flash-ing. Do not cut this bend-out off so that water infiltra-tion between the pieces will be prevented.

The end and side of the drip hem near the endshould be bent to wrap around the top of the SidewallFlashing ( Fi g. 50 ar r ows ).

Position the Gable Edge Trim over the SidewallFlashing, hook into place, and secure with one nail atthe top of channel ( Fi g.51 top ar r ow). Apply sealantliberally to the top space between the two pieces(bottom ar r ow ). Seal the nail head as well.

A further water infiltration prevention measure (atab) will be incorporated into the transition flashingdealt with in the next section.

Fig. 48

Fig. 49

Fig. 50

Fig.51Page 14 of 26

Pitch Change Transition

With the roof sections shingled as shown in Fi g.52 ,field form a piece of tr im coil to be installed at thepitch change.

In the situation seen in Fi g.52 , the transition pieceextends to the outside edges of the Sidewall Channelmarked by the outer ar r ows . Tabs are then cut back

to allow the piece to nest inside of the GableEdge Tr im ( i nner ar r ows ). These tabs will needto be folded over the exposed ends of the Gableand Sidewall Channels to divert water ( Fi g.55 ).

The transition flashing should have a 5/ 8” un-der-turned hem to lock into the top lock of thelast course of shingles below it ( Fi g.52 m i ddl e

Fig.53 ar r ow ). The flashing should be bent to mirrorthe pitch change and then extend a minimum of 4” upthe roof.

Underlayment should be woven under the underlay-ment course above the transition and brought downover the transition flashing to the pitch change point(Fi g.53 ).

Snap a line between the top locks of the top courseof panels on the sides of the dormer. Fasten an an-chor strip between these two top locks to provideone continuous lock for the next course of panels(Fi g.54 ar r ows ).

Fi g.55 shows the trimmed tab folded over the twochannels and secured with a 1/ 2” stainless steelsheet metal screw. Extra sealant should be put underthe tab and over the screw. Note the alignment of thetop lock of the shingle and the anchor strip.

Follow standard installation procedure and installthe next course of panels across the top of the transi-tion ( Fi g.56).

Transitioning from a hi gh to l ow pi tch, such as on agambrel barn roof, is done in a similar manner but

with the coil flashingbeing bent in the oppo-site direction mirroringthe pitch change.

Fig. 52

Fig. 54

Fig. 55

Fig. 56 Fig.57Page 15 of 26

Simple Valley

KasselWood Valleys (5125) have a subtle taper tofacilitate nesting pieces on long valleys. Make surethat the wide end is upslope so that the upper Valleypiece can nest inside the lower piece.

After snapping a chalk line down the center of theValley Underlayment, align the center of the Valleywith this chalk line. The corners on both sides of theValley should be even with the edge of the Starter.

Mark the underside of the Valley the full lengthwhere it runs along the Starter Strip ( Fi g.39 ar r ows ).

Carefully turn the Valley over and cut the Valleyalong a parallel line, 1” further toward the end.Make a relief cut from the cut line to the bend line(Fi g.59 ar r ow ).

Using hand flangers, bend the locking tabs backabout 170 degrees ( Fi g.60 ). These tabs will lock un-der the Starter Strip.

Turn the Valley back over, center it on the chalkline, and push it up, fully engaging it on to the StarterStrip. Secure it to the deck with nail clips spacedevery 12” O.C. ( Fi g.61).

Two nails can be driven through the top outsi deedges onl y of the water return channel r ight next tothe upturned, outside hem to prevent slippage. Sealthese nail heads. If the Valley piece extends to theridge, cut it 3” past the ridge and drive two nailsthrough this fold-over and seal.

If more than one Valley length is required, the uphillsection must overlap the lower section by 3” withsealant applied in between.

Fig. 58

Fig. 59

Fig. 60

Fig. 61Page 16 of 26

Intersecting Valleys

When two Valleys intersect as at the top of a dor-mer, care must be exercised to make sure the twoValley pieces are “ woven” together properly andsealed.

Position the KasselWood Valley piece so that thewater return channels extend past the drip edge ofthe eave and over the course of shingles perpendicu-lar to the dormer. The butts of the shingles over thewater return channels must be cut to allow thesechannels to drain ( Fi g.62 ar r ows ).

Mark a line across the Valley extending from theridge line to the upper corner of the Valley ( Fi g.64r i ght ar r ows ).

Using a framing square or similar tool, mark and cuta stair step pattern as seen in Fi g.63 to allow triangu-lar tabs to extend acr oss the ridge line.

Repeat this procedure for the Valley coming in fromthe opposite side of the dormer.

Using hand flangers, slightly over-bend the two tabsthat will lap over the ridge. Center the Valley andsecure with two nails at the outer edges of the waterreturn channels and seal ( Fi g.64 l eft ar r ows ).

Trim the second Valley if necessary to nest inside ofthe first as it laps over the extended ridge line. Ap-ply sealant under the overlap area before installing.

Slightly over-bend the tabs that lap over the ridgeand secure the piece with two nails near the outerhems ( Fi g.65 ar r ows ). Seal both the nails as well asall cut edges and overlaps with butyl rubber sealant.

Fig. 62

Fig. 63

Fig. 64

Fig. 65Page 17 of 26

Shingles into Valleys

When installing shingles into Valleys, snap chalklines across the roof section every two or threecourses to ensure that courses remain parallel to theridge.

An edge taper should be bent into the valley side ofthe shingle tapering from 1/ 2” at the butt to 1/ 8” at thetop ( Fi g.66 r i ght ar r ows ). A drain slot will need to becut corresponding to the width of the valley water re-turn channel ( l eft ar r ows ).

Securely lock the panel in place and mark where itcrosses the receiving hem in the Valley ( Fi g.67 ar -r ows ). Remove the panel and rough cut it about1-1/ 2” past these marks.

Cut and fold open the top and bottom locks at themarks just made ( Fi g.68). Make a fold line connect-ing the marks (dashed blue line nearest to the body ofthe shingle). Cut the locks perpendicular to the i nnerfold line leaving about 1/ 8” extra material ( Fi g.68outer ar r ows ).

Make another fold line that is 1/ 2” out from the buttand 1/ 8” out at the top of the shingle representing theshingle taper ( outer dashed bl ue l i ne, i nner ar -r ows ).

Draw a third line another 5/ 8” out from the taper line.This will be the cut line for the side lock that will fitback into the Valley Receiving channel ( center ar r owon r ed l i ne).

With a portable brake, bend the shingle 90 degreeson the outer fold line. Straighten the shingle back outand repeat the same fold a couple times to produce a“ memory” in the steel that will allow hand bendingthis fold after the other fold is bent.

With the shingle nearly straight, bend the shingle 90degrees on the i nner fold line( Fi g.69 and i nset).Remove the shingle and hand curl the side lock 180degrees under. Remove the shingle and fit it into the

Valley Receiving channel as seen inFi g.66 .

Fig. 66

Fig. 67

Fig. 68

Fig. 69Page 18 of 26

Hip Caps

KasselWood shingles have hip treatments using HipCaps (5107, Fi g.73 )

Chalk a line along the hip from eave to ridge. Cutall shingles coming to the hip from the left even withthe ridge line ( Fi g.70 ar r ows ).

Shingles on the right side of the hip line will lapover the hip line 2” to the left of the line. Sealant willneed to be applied about 1-1/ 2” to the left of the hipline as each shingle is installed. This is indicated bythe line drawn in Fi g.71 (ar r ows ).

As mentioned above, lap the shingles on the rightside of the hip 2” over the hip line to the left and ontop of a bead of sealant. Fasten the ends of eachshingle with two or three nails to cause the shingle torest flat against the shingle on the other side ( Fi g.72ar r ows ).

The forming of the first corner cap is discussed onthe next page. Fold each Hip/ R i dge Cap as requiredto fit the specific hip or r idge pitch. Chalk a linealong the hip line over the lapped shingles to keepHip Caps straight as they are being installed.

Using only nails or screws of a length long enoughto fully penetrate the substrate, fasten the Hip/ RidgeCap through the two pre-punched holes in the anchorportion of the cap. Make sure each subsequent capis fully engaged before nailing. The butts of the shin-gles on each side of the caps will need to flatten a lit-tle to ensure each cap sits flat. Each cap should havean 8” vertical exposure ( Fi g.73 ).

At the intersection of two hips and a ridge, lap thelast Hip Caps, through fasten, and seal.

Fig. 70

Fig. 71

Fig. 72

Fig. 73Page 19 of 26

Corner Hip Caps

The first Hip/ Ridge Cap at each hip will need to bemodified to hook over the first course shingles asthey meet at the corner of the eave. The end of thecap will need to conform to the corner of the roof.

After opening up the bottom lock of the first HipCap, center the cap on the hip line far enough downto fully mark the corner roof angle ( Fi g.74).

Turn the cap over and check to see that the two foldlines that were just traced ( pur pl e i n Fi g.75 ) meet inthe center of the cap and are equal distances downfrom the top corner.

Mark a second set of fold lines parallel to and 5/ 8”down from the first set of fold lines ( gr een). Marktwo cut lines another 1” down from and parallel tothe second fold lines ( r ed ). Notch the side of the capabout 3/ 8” ( Fi g. 56 ar r ow ) so that the flattened sidescan be re-bent into position after the butt is formed.Cut out the Cap as seen in Fi g.75.

In a brake or with hand flangers, bend the cap asseen in Fi g.76 to form a new butt and under-turnedlock. Bend the outer folds first and then flatten so thatthe inner folds can be bent on both sides. Refold theunder-turned lock by hand or with hand flangers.

Fi g.77 shows a properly formed corner Hip Cap.Note the miter cut at the bottom ar r ow and the down-turned sides ( top ar r ow ).

Fasten the corner Hip Cap into position centered onthe hip line through the pre-punched holes in the an-chor portion of the cap. Install Hip Caps the entirelength of the hip. Make sure that each cap is fully en-gaged into the next cap and centered on the hip line(Fi g.73 ).

Fig. 74

Fig. 75

Fig. 76

Fig. 77Page 20 of 26

Chimney and Skylight Flashing

The pictures in this section show recommendedflashings around a chi m ney. Cur b m ounted sk y-l i ght flashings will be identical with the exception ofthe top of each flashing which will need to be formedto fit the specific counter-flashing that comes with theskylight. The techniques and pieces for the front andsides of the chimney will be the same for a dor m er .

Inspect the chimney and its flashings to see if any re-pairs need to be made before proceeding. Removeold chimney flashings onl y i f they interfere with newflashings. Make sure that underlayment has been runat least 5” up the sides of the chimney as described atthe beginning of this manual.

A 1/ 2” deep masonry cut must be made at a uniformheight (at least 5” ) parallel to the deck all the wayaround the chimney. The cut should be above exist-ing flashings. It may be possible to use a 2x6 or 2x4as a guide to make this cut on the sides and front(Fi g.78 ). If not, use a chalked line as a guide. Ideally,1/ 2” of height for insertion into the kerf should be leftin the height of the Sidewall Flashing. If the kerfneeds to be higher than the sidewall height, counter-flashing will need to be formed to lap down to theshingles.

Fi g.79 shows the profile of the front, field-formedapron flashing. The flashing must extend down to theroof deck and 4” on top of the shingles below and be5” wi der than the chimney on each si de so that the 4”wide sidewall water return channel completely emp-ties on to it. A bend and an under-turned hem willadd a finished appearance and additional strength.Depending on where the course below the chimneyfalls, it may be possible to hook this into a top lock.Notice in Fi g.79 that the shingle below the chimneywas not cut off but rather run up the chimney to func-tion as a water stop ( ar r ow ).

Fi g.80 displays the cut and fold that needs to bemade to wrap the apron flashing around the sides ofthe chimney and to nail it ( Fi g.81 ar r ow ) to the deck.

Butyl rubber sealant should be place into the kerfbefore the insertion of the flashings ( Fi g.81), A sec-ond bead of sealant can then be applied after theflashing is in place.

Fig. 78

Fig. 79

Fig. 80

Fig. 81Page 21 of 26

Chimney Sidewall and Upslope Flashings

Install 5121 Sidewall Flashing along the two anglesides of the chimney. Each piece must be longenough to extend 1” past the bottom corner of thechimney and at least 1/ 2” through the butt of the firstshingle to be inserted into the channel. The SidewallFlashing should extend at least 3” uphill of the chim-ney and attached with a sealed nail at the very top(Fi g.84 top ar r ow ) and nail clips every 12” O.C.

Hold the sidewall piece against the chimney to markthe front and back fold lines shown by the dottedlines in Fi g.82 (i nner ar r ows ). Draw lines for 1” tabsto wrap around the chimney. Notice that another tabis left to be wrapped down around the metal that willbe exposed over the front apron ( l eft ar r ow ).

Cut a drain slot in the bottom lock of the first shingleto be installed into the Sidewall Flashing ( Fi g.83 topar r ow ). Apply clear or color matching butyl rubbersealant to all joints and openings ( si de ar r ows ).

Using a brake, form a flashing for the back of thechimney that extends at least 12” up the roof and 5”up the back of the chimney with a 1/ 2” lip to insertinto the previously made saw kerf ( Fi g.84). Theflashing should be 9” wider than the chimney to form“ dog ears” on both sides that will divert wateraround the chimney. The dog ears should be 2” wideat their base. The extra 2-1/ 2” of material should beused for a back fold to cover the unpainted metal.

Form 1/ 2” upturned water return flanges on thesides of the back flashing ( Fi g.85 outer ar r ows ).Continue running shingles up the sides of the chim-ney and notch the top shingle on each side to fitaround the dog ears. Install a piece of underlaymentthe width of the back flashing between the flanges,over the flashing and up under the course of under-layment above it.

Install a piece of anchor strip the width of the back-flashing between the top locks of the courses of shin-gles on both sides. This will be the lock for the fullcourse of shingles running past the top of the chim-ney. Put a dab of sealant at the spots where the nailwill penetrate the pan before driving the nails.

Fig. 82

Fig. 83

Fig. 84

Fig. 85Page 22 of 26

26

Chimney Upslope Flashing and Crickets

Fi g.86 shows properly installed chimney flashings.It is essential that sealant be applied in the cornerareas indicated by the ar r ows .

Fi g.87 pictures the first full course of shingles run-ning past the back of the chimney.

If the chimney is located at the bottom of a long runnear the eave, a diverter may be installed one courseup from the chimney. Fi g.88 shows the pattern forsuch a diverter. Note that the bends that wraparound the bottom lock of the shingle should fitsnugly. A liberal bead of sealant must be appliedbetween the bottom lock and the diverter to preventwater from flooding the lock.

For larger chimneys, especially near the eave, acricket or saddle should be installed on the backsideof the chimney. Fi g.89 illustrates the cut and bendpattern to be employed using coil stock.

If the chimney is quite large, valley pieces can beused such as detailed in the previous section on“ intersecting valleys” . The sides of the cricket canthen be covered with coil stock or shingled andcapped like a dormer.

Fig. 86

Fig. 87

Fig. 88

Fig. 89

Page 23 of 26

27

Vent Pipes - Use the pattern included in the coil stock box to cover all neoprene pipeflashings.

Page 24 of 26

Ridges

The ridge should be watertight before Ridge Caps(5107) are installed. There are three methods for ac-complishing this:

1) Bend shingles over the ridge from both sides andattach ( i l l ustr ated bel ow ).

2) Form a one piece flashing with 1/ 2” under-turnedhems that snap into the top locks of the shingles onboth sides ( Fi g.90). Nails through the Ridge Cap willsecure it in place. Run a bead of sealant in the locksafter the caps are installed.

3) Form two flashings with 1/ 2” under-turned hemsthat extend over the ridge by 2” and then are nailed(Fi g.91 ar r ow ). Notice how the flashing is bent to fitinto the 5027 Gable Channel.

On long ridges, overlap flashing lengths by 3” .

Ridge Cap installation occurs either over lappedshingles or lapped flashing(s) mentioned above.Fold each cap along its center line to mirror the roofpitch. Fi g.92 shows the first Ridge Cap inserted intothe “ C” channel of the Gable Edge Trim and thennailed through the anchor portion of the cap. Eachsubsequent cap is then firmly engaged and nailedinto place. Snap a chalk line on the ridge to keep thecaps in line.

Caps may be started at both ends of a r idge withone of the two middle two caps cut and lapped overthe other to split the length between bottom locksand give a symmetrical appearance. The lappedshingle is then face-nailed and sealed.

Fig. 90

Fig. 91

Fig. 92

Page 25 of 26

Ridges cont.

For the application of a Ridge Vent an opening at theridge of 3 to 3-1/2” will need to be cut with a circularsaw. A 2x4 nailed parallel to the ridge can provide ahandy guide for cutting ( Fig.93 ). Underlayment shouldbe run right up to the opening before installing ridgevents.

Install panels, then ridge venting material, and finallyridge caps.

Fig. 93

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