kintyre marketing group - campbeltown and tarbert tourist trails - 1997

8/14/2019 Kintyre Marketing Group - Campbeltown and Tarbert Tourist Trails - 1997

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KINTYRE MARKING GROUP'S

CAMPBELTOWN and TARBERT

TOURIST TRAILS of 1997

The drawings and commentaries here have been extracted from a Kintyre MarketingGroup leaflet, published in 1997 to align with the beginning of a new car ferryservice running across The North Channel and connecting Campbeltown withBallycastle, on the north Irish coast., the ferry service was short-lived, largely dueto bad promotion and closed at the end of the 1999 summer season.

The then newly opened "An Tairbert" Heritage Centre, featured in the TarbertTrail, had no better luck and too closed soon after the the end of the Campbeltownto Ballycastle ferry operation.

All of the drawings of Campbeltown and its buildings were created by artist GeorgeStewart of The Oystercatcher Gallery, Campbeltown and were reproduced in theKintyre Marketing Group leaflet with his express permission. The leaflet's text waswri tten by Jonathan Hooper of The Craft Centre at Torrisdale, on the south side ofCarradale, it too now no longer open and the leaflet's design and typesetting wasthe work of Clive Good, the leaflet sponsored by Eaglesome of Campbeltown.

Kintyre Marketing Group 1997


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1 - CAMPBELTOWN CROSS

This late medieval Celtic carved cross is the most famous on mainland Argyll andholds a special place for all Campbeltonians. It originally stood in the middle ofMain Street it the junction of Kirk Street and Cross Street from 1680 until 1939,when it was removed for protection and then re-erected on its present site in 1945.

There has been much academic debate as to who commissioned it and its place ofmanufacture and erection. The consensus is that it was originally erected at K ilkivanChurch near Machrihanish, by the cleric Andrew MacEachran of K ilchoman inIslay, in honour of his father. It is almost certainly of the Iona school of carving(1330 - 1500). There were several schools of carving active during the reign of theLords of the Isles, including a Kintyre school based at Saddell .

It is carved from a single slab (3.3 metres high) of blue-green schist, carried by shipfrom Knapdale and belongs to the top order of craftsmanship. After theReformation the cross was slightly mutilated and the crucifix and two figures erased,probably at the time it was moved to Campbeltown, in order to transform its'popish function' into a secular use as the town's mercat cross. It rewards closeexamination and portrays many of the motifs of Celtic and religious culture.

2 - AUCHINLEE HOUSE

During Campbeltown's industrial heyday around the turn of the century whendistill ing, fishing and shipping were pre-eminent, the prosperous citizens of thetown vied with each other in building private mansions and vil las, particularly atAskomil and Kilkerran. The town boasts a remarkable number of such buildings ina variety of styles; most are sti ll privately owned. This vil la represents one of thefinest of the town's villas. Built as a private residence in the early 1880's with a sisterhouse (Craigard) below on Low Askomil. Auchinlee is now a Church of ScotlandEventide Home, however many of the original features are retained.

It is a large asymmetrical bui lding of yellow sandstone in a classical style. There is apiended green-gray slate roof with overhanging eaves. The fenestration is typicallyVictorian, bold in design and expansive. The corner tower and entrance porch are

particularly striking and Italinate.


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3 - THE HIGHLAND CHURCH

Built in 1803 - 1807 to accommodate the Highland population of the town, itreplaced the Gaelic church located at the end of Kirk Street, which had fallen intodisrepair (but was subsequently and tastefully restored by H. E. Clifford in 1904).This urbane church looks down from its slightly elevated position from the top ofNew Quay Street to the New Quay and the new ferry terminal.

The architect was George Dempster of Greenock. The design is a two storeysymmetrical bayed classical building with a three-tier entrance bell tower at thecentre and rectangular stair towers at each end. The present droved ashlar towerreplaced several calamitous attempts at an original steeple. There is an 'Adamesque'feel to the design including the largely remodelled interior with its 'horseshoe gallery'

and cast iron columns.

4 - THE PUBLIC LIBRARY and MUSEUM

It was built in 1898 as a sif t to the town bv a local benefactor. James Macalister-Hallof Killean and Tangy. The architect was John James Burnet of Glasgow, one ofScotland's most eminent architects (later knighted). There is a mixture of stylesexhibited here within a basically early Scott ish Renaissance style. Built of localKilellan stone with red sandstone and Welsh slate, it is endowed with the bestmaterials and brought to a high level of finish, by mainly local tradesmen.

On the corner of the 'L' shaped building, facing Hall Street, is a carved masonrycartouche of the town's coat of arms and on the facade of the library a pleasingfrieze of sculptured figures il lustrating the trades of the town - fishing, building,shipbuilding, net making, coal-mining, distilling and education.

Inside, the entrance hall is invigorated by having the roof timbers open, the largeoverhang to the rear roof forming a cloister was so designed to act as an outdoorexhibition area. It is a typical feature, characteristic of the architect, inf luenced by'The Art and Craft Movement'. The external ornamentation and prominent cupolaare baroque and particularly striking. The library contains an important localreference collection and the museum an interesting collection of artefactsilluminating the local natural and human history.


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5 - CAMPBELTOWN PICTURE HOUSE

Affectionately known as 'The Wee Picture House', it opened in May 1913. This isone of the earliest purpose built cinemas in Scotland and probably the oldestsurviving still showing films.

The Architect was Albert Gardner. He and his partner W. R. Glen designed severalcinemas, mostly in Glasgow, in this case adopting the 'in vogue' "Glasgow Style".It is a most individualistic building with a distinct Hall Street elevation, 'Mackintosh'winglets and ell iptical helmet, contrasting not unhappily with its neighbouringbuildings. It was renovated in 1988 and although extensively remodelled internallythe pair of theatre boxes flanking the screens are original. Cinemas were all the ragewhen it had its grand opening in 1913. The local press reflecting the excitementwith purple prose. To this day it remains "a welcome desideratum of local and

holiday folk's diversion".

6 - THE QUAYS

The Quays have been the most important built structure in Campbeltown for over200 years; the town's working life has revolved around them.

Its need was apparent to all, especially the local businessmen yet they came intobeing because of one of the town's most famous residents - Elizabeth Tollemache,Duchess of Argyll (to the first Duke) who lived at Limecraigs House and persuadedthe Town Council to take on the project.

It took 53 years from conception in 1712 to completion in 1765, relying on privateand public financing and involving, at one stage, forced labour for all adult men, orfines in l ieu of. It was practically rebuilt in the 19th century to accommodate theenormous development in the fishing industry, steam packet services and general

shipping. The New Quay was started concurrently in 1754 at the behest of John,the second Duke of Argyll. The council readily agreed thus the enclosed harbourwas formed. The new Ro - Ro ferry terminal on the New Quay opened in thesummer of 1997, bringing us up to date with its progressive evolution.


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7 - THE CHRISTIAN INSTITUTE

This building is included as an example of the work of one of Campbeltown's mostimportant architects, Henry E. Clifford. Although based in Glasgow he adoptedCampbeltown, marrying Alice Gibson, a local doctor's daughter. He wasapprenticed in the famous firm of John Burnet and became highly regarded himself.He carried out many signif icant municipal projects within the Burgh - schools,hospitals, churches, halls, warehouses, housing and private houses, including theacclaimed villa 'Redholme'. His work is all around. The Christian Institute buildingis sited at what was a prime site in the town. The adjacent Woolworth's site hadpreviously been occupied by the venerable 'Quay Head Building' containing TheCampbeltown Steam Packet Company Office. This was also the terminus of theregrettably lost "Wee Narrow Gauge Train" that used to run to Machrihanishbetween 1876 and 1932, carrying coal and latterly tourists. It is a stern business-like

building, almost a parody of a Victorian station in appearance, with its archedtripartite windowed facade and entrance tower. It was opened in June 1887 by LordKinnaird. It is now used as local council of fices.

9 - THE OLD BOATHOUSE, BURNBANK (Now a storage shed)

This prosaic building sits back from the street with almost an air of embarrassedhumbleness. It represents an almost lost element of The Burgh's earl ierarchitecture. Probably built in the early 19th century as a boat-building house, itsrustic rubble walls would have had a thatched roof, like many other buildings in thetown. Small boats would have been buil t or mended here on the banks of thetown's burn, The Witchburn. This is now hidden under the roads and TheEsplanade. The whole shape and environment of the seafront here would havebeen unrecognisable prior to 'The Mussel Ebb', now Kinloch Park, being reclaimedin 1880, physically uniting Campbeltown and Dalintober. The building has beenused for years as a workshop and store.


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10 - ARGYLL STREET / BAROCHAN PLACE TENEMENTS

Campbeltown's second name is 'The Wee Glasgow, by the sea.' This is owing to thefact that almost all the architects that worked here were based in Glasgow, and ascan be seen, brought their influences to the town. Therefore it is not surprising tosee the tenements of the west end of Glasgow reflected here : this is an excellentexample.

This tenement, like many others in the town, is an impressive street scene in arather incongruous rural setting. It was built by Thomas Lennox Watson (who hadtrained in the Glasgow firm of James Boucher) for the developer, AlexanderFleming, in 1907. Possibly best viewed looking towards the four storey cornertower, down towards Main Street. It is of good quality both in design andconstruction in vibrant red sandstone with red ashlar dressings. The wash houses,

drying greens, coal cellars and many original internal and external details makes thisimpressive tenement well worth studying.

11 - THE SHERIFF COURTHOUSE

This is a distinguished building with its large central entrance tower in the FrenchGothic style, situated in and complementing the Castlehil l area of the town, at thehead of Main Street. The architect was David Cousin of Edinburgh (who built anumber of buildings in Argyll). It was constructed in 1871 by Robert Weir, a wellrespected and prolific local builder. The building replaced in part the functions ofthe old Town Hall and the subsequent Bolgam Street Courthouse, it now sadly indisrepair. The Town Jail nearby, now the Police Station, had been erected in 1847.

Stories abound of interesting court cases seen here, none so bizarre as thatinvolving the imprisonment of 30 sheep in the prison yard. Damage by fire in 1989led to considerable internal alterations.


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14 - LORNE and LOWLAND CHURCH

In 1769 a section of the Lowland congregation at The Castlehill Church broke awaydue to a dispute with the patron the Duke of Argyll and built the original church onthis site - the "relief from oppression church". In 1830 the building was given aGothic tower. Then in 1871 the whole building was demolished and replaced withthe present grand church. The congregation was by then The United Presbyterians.The commission to build the church was given to the famous Glasgow architecturalfi rm of John Burnet (1814 - 1901). The great tower is is dominant feature of thetown. It could easily be thought to represent a great lighthouse tower, reflectingCampbeltown's maritime importance, however it is in reality Glaswegian influencedand most likely reflects Alexander 'Greek' Thomson's work. Being set back fromLongrow emphasises its solid impressive external elevations.

The interior is sumptuous and fine; its original decorative scheme survives. Thereis a raked 'u' plan gallery on columns and pleasing classical decoration. Today it iscalled The Lorne and Lowland Church having survived due to its size several furthercongregational amalgamations.

15 - SPRINGBANK DISTILLERY

When Andy Stewart sang "Campbeltown Loch I Wish You Were Whisky", he wasnearer the truth than may be imagined. At least 34 separate disti lleries are known tohave existed here at some time, with a peak of 27 working between 1823 and 1827,a result of changes in government licensing laws aimed at reducing the illicit trade.In those heady malting days the town's fishermen and sailors returning from seawere said to smell their way home.

Hidden up 'The Well Close', this remains the last surviving distil lery sti ll productionin the town. It was built in 1823 by J. A. Mitchell and remains in the family to thisday. This is a substantial, self contained, complex of buildings laid out in thetraditional quadrangle with only one gateway constructed with random rubble andstrugged sandstone dressings. There is an office at the centre with the principal

buildings to the south west, including a sti ll house, malt bins, mash tun and stores.The kiln is located at the west end linked to the maltings and the barley loft. Thereis also a cooperage, bottl ing halls and warehouses. The process of distill ing iscontinued here using completely traditional methods, guided tours are availablestrictly by prior arrangement.

Wherever you go in the town one cannot escape the architectural inf luence that thedistillery industry sti ll has on the town, with many of the remaining buildings usednow for other purposes.


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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

The drawings and commentaries here have been extracted from a Kintyre MarketingGroup leaflet, published in 1997 to align with the beginning of a new car ferryservice running across The North Channel and connecting Campbeltown withBallycastle, on the north Irish coast., the ferry service was short-lived, largely dueto bad promotion and closed at the end of the 1999 summer season.

The then newly opened "An Tairbert" Heritage Centre, featured in the TarbertTrail, had no better luck and too closed soon after the the end of the Campbeltownto Ballycastle ferry operation.

Drawings of Tarbert are reproduced with the kind permission of Anne R Thomas,ATD. A wide selection of her work is available at the Anne Thomas Gallery inTarbert - The map of Tarbert by The Kintyre Marketing Group 1997

All of the drawings of Tarbert were reproduced with the kind permission of Anne RThomas, ATD. A wide selection of her work available at The Anne ThomasGallery in Tarbert . The leaflet's text was written by Jonathan Hooper of The Craft

Centre at Torrisdale, on the south side of Carradale, it now no longer open and theleaflet's design and typesett ing was the work of Clive Good, the leaflet sponsoredby Eaglesome of Campbeltown.

Kintyre Marketing Group 1997


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TARBERT LOCH FYNE is a picturesque village, population around 2000,situated within one of the finest natural harbours in The West of Scotland,surrounded by low hills it offers a welcome haven to all who travel by sea. Coveted

by many sea-borne raiders. The Norse King Magnus Barefoot claimed K intyre asan island in 1098 and Tarbert in particular by having his ship drawn across theisthmus, sails set and helmed by Magnus, between Tarbert's East and West Lochs.

This exploit was later copied by King Robert the Bruce. This extraordinary routewould have passed through the present sites of the Bowling Green, IndustrialEstate, "An Tairbeart" Heritage Centre and finally Tarbert's challenging 9-hole GolfCourse !

The name Tarbert (or in Gaelic "Tairbeart") is derived from the Gaelic words forportage or dragging ships. The vil lage skyline is dominated by the distinctive parishchurch with its tall tower, where visitors are welcome to join Sunday service at

11.30 am, or at The Free Church of Scotland at the same time.

1 - "ROBERT THE BRUCE'S" CASTLE

Because of its important position Tarbert has been fortified since The Iron Age and

a castle was built in the 6th Century by Fergus, the first Christian King of Kintyre.Sacked in 712, the next major reconstruction was undertaken by Robert The Bruceat a total cost of 511, according to the oldest existing Exchequer Roll (Scotland).

A Royal Parliament sat in the castle as late as the 16th century and Tarbert was alsothe seat of 'The Sheriffdom' until 1633.

Since then the importance of the castle declined, result ing in a complete neglect ofthe structure - the most obvious feature today is the ivy-clad five storey 15thcentury keep. However a Trust Company was set up and registeied in 1990 with aview to developing and preserving the historic site.

From the illustrations of the castle, one can clearly realise from these its prospect toeast and west, but especially overlooking the comparatively narrow entrance to theharbour for boats.


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2 - CENTRE OF CRAFT AND COMMERCE

The area surrounding the village is blessed with rich farmland and the agriculturalindustry is renowned for its beef, lamb, venison, milk, cheese and vegetables.

You will find that many of the local places to eat will have a good range of freshlocal produce on their menus.

A more recent addition to the village is the "Earra Gael" shop, occupying the smallweighbridge building at the waters edge on Harbour Street, where a small selectionof the enormous variety of Argyll arts and crafts are exhibited.

The July market is enhanced by a fair which originated as a horse fair by Act ofScottish Parliament in 1705 and now lasts 3 - 4 days along the main harbour wall.

Shops, hotels, fine restaurants, bed and breakfast accommodation, boat buildingand repair, chandleries, garages, taxis and so on are to be found by the waterside,

most being family run modern businesses - they offer a complete range of servicebut with old world courtesy.

The "Kintyre Information Centre", opened by The Argyll & The Islands, LochLomond, Stirl ing & Trossachs Tourist Board in 1997, has replaced the small formerTourist Information Centre next door. This is an excellent starting point for findingout about Tarbert and the locality.

3 - TARBERT'S NATURAL HARBOUR

Tarbert has retained its attraction for sailors - whether leisure or commercial. Abusy local fishing fleet works daily from the quayside which with its assortment of

nets.ropes and creels is a centre of interest to a visitor as well as being an importantpart of Tarbert's economy - The East Pier was once constantly visited by steamers,disgorging passengers coming "doon the watter", such as the famous "Columba"commemorated by the hotel of that name. Today, "Waverley", The World's lastocean going paddle steamer, visits Tarbert weekly during the season. A ferryservice, from a new slipway nearby, links Tarbert to Cowal and the Islay ferryservice, linking onwards to Jura, which in summer also travels to Colonsay andOban, runs from Kennacraig on Tarbert's West Loch.

In the 18th and 19th centuries, local fishermen developed a "new" method offishing called ring-netting, this was so effective that the Government banned it andsent in troops to stop its practice. Nets were confiscated and the resultant poverty

nearly brought the village to its knees. However the Government eventually sawsense and ring-net f ishing was legalised.

In those days herring was the main catch, but nowadays it is mainly prawns andother shellfish, such as squat lobsters and scallops, other fish becoming very muchrarer. Interestingly, if you holiday in Spain, (here is quite a possibility that you haveeaten Tarbert's produce there; large quanti ties are exported by road and served aslocal delicacies !


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4 - CENTRE FOR MARINE LEISURE ACTIVITY

On the north side of the harbour there is a fine pontoon berthing area for 200

leisure craft of all shapes and sizes in a natural setting without the artificiality of amarina. Most of Scotland's main yachting programmes include Tarbert Harbour. Inthe earl ier part of the century, many great yachts were built in Tarbert and smallrepairers still operate here, whilst there is also an active sail ing club.

Each May, Tarbert hosts the second largest sailing racing series in the UK, onlyCowes week being bigger. During that period of five days or so, around 300 boatsand 3,000 people descend on the vil lage for a regatta which is reckoned to be one ofthe friendliest in The World and which has a loyal group of devotees. Youngstersare very much encouraged to join in too, the "Topper" sailing dinghy classes toencourage and develop skills.

Tarbert is also frequently used as a base for diving on the vast numbers of wrecks inThe Clyde Estuary and for naval exercises of various kinds.

You may still see a Clyde "Puffer" on occasion, as VIC 32 calls from time to time,reminding one of the large numbers of such puff ers which used to call, asfictionalised in Neil Munro's classic "Para Handy" tales.

5 - "AN TAIRBEART" H ERITAGE CENTRE (NOW CLOSED)

This award winning centre set in 35 hectares of woodland was developed to explore

and explain the interaction between mankind and the local environment.

Native breeds were to be seen there and woodland walks with fine views, especiallyof West Loch Tarbert, were complemented by a regular programme of events anddemonstrations, including Cultural activit ies, Art and Craft skills, Forestry andFarming, Net and Creel making, Myths and Legends, Archaeology andConservation. There was also an interpretive exhibition and a children's play area.

It had a licensed restaurant and which was open daily from 10.00am to sunset.


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6 - STONEFIELD CASTLE HOTEL GARDENS

Admission to the splendid 50 acres of gardens at this elegant building is f ree to

visitors, though you may like to make a small donation towards the cost of theirupkeep. The gardens contain Himalayan rhododendrons and rare trees and shrubsfrom South Africa and New Zealand and a walk down through the gardens to LochFyne, or across the causeway to Barmore Island, wil l be very enjoyable.

The Baronial house itself was designed in 1837 by the renowned architect, SirWilliam Playfair and today it is used as a distinctive and well known hotel.

7 - TARBERT WALKS

There are many hill and forest walks to be enjoyed around the village, without

necessarily taking your car. Behind the castle, for example, The ForestryCommission have sympathetically landscaped tracks into the hil ls, with superbviews over Loch Fyne and the Isles of Argyll.

For the less active, there is a short walk at the end of Garvel Road (north side ofthe harbour) which leads to a pleasant beach known as "The White Shore". On thehill above it is a brass plaque pointing to the visible features of the landscape.

At the end of East Pier Road are the shell beaches which have been formed bymillions of scallop shells. Their intricate patterns between the rocks at low water arefascinating.


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kintyre marketing group - campbeltown and tarbert tourist trails - 1997

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