Part I: Lasts Introduction

The art of lasts: combining great fit with appealing cosmetics based on authentic

feet structure.

Simple Truth to lasts:If the last is bad, the shoe/fit is bad.

Development Truth: Lasts are first

Commercialization Truth: if the model is wrong, extremes will also be wrong, but

amplified.

Production Truth: If the lasts are not well made, the faulty shoe rate is much higher

than norm

4 ways to develop a last

• Buy off the shelf—quick, but they are generic with little character.

• Copy competitor last (borrow from factory or foam inject)

• Copy competitor and modify. Quickest method to achieve fit & character.

• Develop from scratch

New Last Design1. Last Bottom Design

Last Bottom Length 楦底长度线） Last Center Length （楦底中心线）

Tread Line （着地线） Heel Width （后跟宽度）

Bottom (Ball) Width （楦底宽度） 2. Last Girth Design

Ball Girth （趾围） Waist Girth （腰围）

Instep Girth （背围） Back Length ( 兜跟围）

Cuboids Girth ( 后跟围） Toe Thickness （楦头头厚）3. Last Toe Spring and Heel Height

Toe Spring （前翘） Heel Height （后翘）

4. Last Stick Length and Back Curve

Back Curve 后踵曲线） Crest Line （楦头棱线）

Stick Length ( 楦全长 )

Traditional /Proper Measurement of Last

• OM =last bottom length( toe to heel center)• ON = heel center line• BC = tread line (bottom width), tread area is a width

of tread point A +/- 5mm based on joint of bone.• EF = heel width• OA = OM * 64%• OD = OM * 25%

• Last bottom length line( 楦底长度线 ): Toe to heel center, the center line of the feet/shoes.

• Heel center line( 分踵线 ): Central file of last bottom, the center line of walking direction.

• Across the Tread point ( 着地点 / 前掌重心 ), draw a line to plumb Heel center line( 分踵线 ) ， it is called the Tread Line( 着地线 ) and Bottom Width( 楦底宽度 ).

• Across the point D, draw a line to plumb Heel center line( 分踵线 ) ， it is called the Heel Width Line( 后跟宽度线 ).

Measurement of Ball, Waist and Instep Girth

• The ball girth area is normally marked by three raised points (lateral, center, medial).

• Wrap the measuring tape around the last following these three points.• The tape must lay completely flat to the Last, positioned so the tape is

on the toe side of the nipple, with increments of the tape pointing to the heel of the last then in a straight line and wrap back on to itself

• These three measuring points are defined by common rules of last design.

• Note: Measuring tape must be in front of the three raised point. • Waist measurement point is from center of ball girth point mover up 1 i

nch (25.4 MM).• Instep measurement point is from the center of Waist girth point move

r up 1 inch (25.4 mm).

Instep Girth (背围 )

Waist Girth (腰围 )

NIPPLE

Ball Girth (趾围 )

50.8mm

25.4

mm

Back Length

• From the instep point , wrap the measuring tape around the last heel, the data is called Back Length （兜跟围 ).

•Back Length （兜跟围 ) determines the shoes opening, normally the slip-on, boot and injection shell bottom will restrict back length in the length of 360-378mm in M’s # 9 for easy sliding foot in .

• To measure the widest width between the lateral and medial side of last heel top points, the data is called Cuboids Girth( 后跟围 ) 。•Cuboids Girth( 后跟围 ) is 8-10mm wider than Heel Width 。

2-10mm

22mm

22+4+1mm

•Last heel curve should be matching as foot heel for fitting closely and avoiding slipping .

•Last should be 2-10mm longer than foot at toe part to leave more space for foot toes move freely depending on different category and construction of shoes.

•The last toe thickness in Men’s size 9 should be 27mm = 22mm(US9# men’s toes thickness) + 4mm (sock liner) + 1mm (sock)

HEEL HEIGHT GAUGE(后翘测量尺 )

HEEL HEIGHT MEASUREMENT(后翘测量处 )

TREAD POINT(着地点)

TOE SPRING MEASUREMENT( 前翘测量处 )

•Toe spring , Heel height and Tread point are the three key elements to ensure fitting well and comfortable.

鞋类楦头翘度表 (Toe Spring

Specification List)    Unit (m/m)

Shoes Type

Cayman Dress Casual Sport Hiking Work Sandal Moca

Size 半拖鞋 皮鞋 便鞋 运动鞋 登山鞋 工作鞋 凉鞋 包子鞋

M'S 8# 17 14 16 17 20 21 18 14

B'S 4# 11 14 14 15 18 18 16 13

Y'S 13# 13 13 14 14 15 16 13 12

W'S 6# 16 18 16 15 17 18 17 14

P.S: Based on sample size standard (M9) is 19mm for the Cayman project.

• Stick Length( 楦全长 ) the length is measured from last toe to heel two top points once put the last on a level 。• Stick Length( 楦全长 ) is longer about 3-5mm than last bottom length.

8mm

66mm

6mm

26mm

Back Curve( 后踵曲线 ) is derived 3 points as below:

•Achilles Flex point 后跟最高点•Breast point 后跟最凸点•Heel center point 后跟中心点

Breast point 后跟最凸点 = Achilles Flex point 后跟最高点 / 3 + sock liner thickness

For example, the data of Men’s size 9 as below drawing.

A B C D E EE EEE EEEE

W WWOne width

US/UK Men’s: D = Middle B = Narrow

EE = Wide

US/UK Women’s: B = Middle A = Narrow

C = Wide

Part II: Lasts Grading & Model sizes

XY

• Last grading is based on the X/Y quadrant.

• Grading on X axis: all length of last.

• Grading on Y axis: last girth, heel height, toe thickness and toe spring.

• Grading on both: Back length.

3 grading systems in the world:

UK/US system

(X=8.46mm; Girth=6.35mm)

France system

(X=6.66mm; Girth=5.0mm)

Japan system

(X=10mm; Girth=7.5mm)

Crocs : UK/US system

XY

• Naturally and biologically ,  children’s feet are wider and thicker but shorter.

•2 grading standards for Infants /children and junior/ adult.

•Full sizes grading need to follow as each gender’s model size standard.

#1) For Infants and Children , C0-C12 Genders.last size break 0-1-2-3-4-5-6-7 / 8-9-10-11 -12  model size 4 and 10

•In the view of morphological  that kid's maintain the walk character and disciplinarian during their up growth in different age range. For example, for toddler fm 12-14 moth ( size #2-4) ; their foot bones is just started upgrowth with almost flat  arch,  keep minor;heavy and high step , touchdown the ground  firstly by tiptoe.  •Around age 2-3(size# 5-7), they can start to walk with a wider stride and toruchdown the ground fm heel treat point instead of tip toe,no more oblivious  touchdown by tip toe. •Around age 4-5(size# 8-12) ,they can walk with coherent  leg movement but slightly jounce;keep the process steadily of treated down the ground fm heel to the tip toe as normal. This two genders will have a different grading step with Junior and Adult to reflect their foot development. 

2.) For Junior, & W/M Genders’ Grading.

last size break C 13- J1- J 2- J 3- J 4- J 5/- M 6-7-8-9-10-12-13-14, model size J1,  M 9 , and W7 =J5 in unisexual sizing W 6-7-8-9-10-11

•Around age 7 ( size#13-2) they can start have the walk scale/pose as a mature way, keep the consistent step distance so grading of last keeps same step and alien with adult.  • Above 8 till around age 15, foot bones been developing maturately and completely, it is very important for kid's aged 0-15 to protect their foot fm hurting during the different  development of foot bones,  one pair of uncomfortable shoe may hurt the kid's foot bones and might influence the foot bone healthy development,

#1) For Infants and Children , C0-C12 Genders.Length Grade 1/3 inch between whole sizes 8.46mmBall Girth Grade 3/16 inch between whole sizes 4.76mmWaist Girth Grade 3/16 inch between whole sizes 4.76mmInstep Girth Grade 1/16 inch between whole sizes 4.76mmBall White Grade 1/16 inch between whole sizes 1.58mm Toe Girth Grade 1/32 (scan) inch between whole sizes. 75mm Please refer to below grading chart:

#2) For Junior, & W/M Genders’ Grading.Length Grade 1/3 inch between whole sizes 8.46mmBall Girth Grade ¼ inch between whole sizes 6.35mmWaist Girth Grade ¼ inch between whole sizes 6.35mmInstep Girth Grade ¼ inch between whole sizes 6.35mmBall Width Grade 1/12 inch between whole sizes 2.12mmToe Girth Grade 1/32 (scan) inch between whole sizes. 75mm

•Based on above we have size breaks for kids last for infant/toddler's size0-8, for children  fm 8.5-13.5 and 1-6 for junior ( Athletic kid's last break standard). which  is very important for kid's shoes to be followed to give our next generation a healthy condition for foot bone development  ,as foot is the base of the last, last is the soul for shoe making.

Part III: Lasts

Measurements

• Seven inevitable measurements to develop and control fit on last. These data will reflect and comprehend properly measuring method on physical last once by digital file and traditional tape measuring. The industrial standards of last below will be organized and grouped into Clog, Sneaker, Flip-Flop ,Sandal, Shell/pack boots, Work shoes, Hiker, Casual, and Dress for easily utilizing once any new design needs data from a comfortable and better fit on new last.

• OM: Bottom length.• CB: Ball width on last bottom.• Ball Girth: line up CB around last with ball point on last

cone .• JH: Waist Girth.• YW: Instep Girth.• Toe spring.• Heel height• Please review the interpretation of crucial seven elements

in last data, industrial standards to create and develop a good last.

No.

Gender

Size

Bottom Length(m/m)

Bottom Width(mm)

Ball Girth(m/m)

Waist Girth(m/m)

Instep Girth(m/m)

Back Length/Short Heel

(m/m)

Toe Spring(mm)

Heel Heightmm)

Insole Thickne

ss(mm)

M'S 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

1 Mens9#

275 - 277 99 - 101 257 - 260 251 - 254 260 - 263 76 16 18 No sock

W's

　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

2Women

s7#

245 - 247 84 - 86 235 - 238 229 - 232 238 - 241 70 14 16 No sock

Junior's 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

3 Junior's1#

207 - 20973 - 75 207-210 201 - 204

210 - 213 62 12 14 No sock

Children's 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

4Childre

n's

10#

173 - 175 64 - 66 188-191 182 - 185 191 - 194 55 12 14 No sock

No.Gender

SizeBottom Length(m/m)

Ball Width(mm)

Ball Girth(m/m)

Waist Girth(m/m)

Instep Girth(m/m)

Back Length/S

hort Heel(m/m

)

Toe Sprin

g(mm)

Heel Height(mm)

Insole Thickn

ess(mm)

M'S D 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

1 Mens 9# 276-278 92-94 248-251 251-254 260-264 381-387 18 12 5

W's B 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

2 Womens 7# 244-246 78-80 220-223 223-226 231-234 336-342 18 12 4

Junior's D 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

3 Junior's 1# 210-212 75-77 196-198 201-203 208-211 292-297 16 10 4

Children's D 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

4Children'

s10# 176-178 66-68 176-178 179-181 189-192 254-259 16 10 3

Infants D-E 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

5 Infant's 4# 126-128 58-60 147-149 150-152 154-156 181-185 　 　 3

No.

Gender Size

Bottom

Length

(m/m)

Ball Width(mm)

Ball Girth(m/m)

Waist Girth(m/m)

Instep Girth(m/m)

Toe Split Length (m/m)

Toe Spring(mm)

Heel Height(mm)

Insole Thicknes

s(mm)

M'S D 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

1 Mens 9#273-275

90-92 241-244 243-247 259-264 52 6 10 No sock

W's B 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

2Women

s7#

240-242

76-78 208-210 212-214 219-222 46 6 10 No sock

Junior's D 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

3 Junior's 1#205-207

73-75 190-192 193-195 201-204 41 6 10 No sock

Children's D 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

4Children'

s10#

172-174

64-66 170-172 173-175 179-182 38 6 10 No sock

Infants D-E 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

5 Infant's 4#120-122

56-58 138-140 141-123 145-148 30 　 　 No sock

Note:Slide Sandal Last Measurements Same as Flip Bottom Length & WidthPlus 1/8 (3mm) on Ball, Waist & InstepToe Spring should be 8mm. Slide last could be applied to thong construction. But Flip cannot unless use above add-0n.

No.

Gender

Size

Bottom Length(m/m)

Ball Width(mm)

Ball Girth(m/m)

Waist Girth(m/m)

Instep Girth(m/m)

Back Length/Short Heel

(m/m)

Toe Spring(mm)

Heel Height(mm)

Insole Thickne

ss(mm)

M'S D 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

1 Mens 9# 273-275 90-92 241-244 243-247 259-264 　 17 12 No sock

W's B 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

2Wome

ns7# 240-242 76-78 208-210 212-214 219-222 　 16 12 No sock

Junior's D 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

3Junior'

s1# 205-207 73-75 190-192 193-195 201-204 　 14 10 No sock

Children's D

　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

4Childre

n's10#

172-174 64-66 170-172 173-175 179-182 　 12 10 No sock

Infants D-E

　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

5 Infant's 4# 120-122 56-58 138-140 141-123 145-148 　 　 　 No sock

No.

Gender

Size

Bottom Length(m/m)

Ball Width(mm)

Ball Girth(m/m)

Waist Girth(m/m)

Instep Girth(m/m)

Back Length/S

hort Heel(m/

m)

Toe Spring(mm)

Heel Height(mm)

Insole Thickne

ss(mm)

M'S D 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

1 Mens 9# 278-280 96-98 260-264 263-267 273-278 403-410 21 16 5

W's B 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

2Women

s7# 246-248 86-88 231-234 234-237 240-244 344-350 18 16 5

Junior's D 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

3 Junior's 1# 211-213 76-78 208-210 211-213 217-220 314-319 16 15 5

Children's D

　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

4Childre

n's10#

177-179 68-70 185-187 188-190 193-195 269-273 16 13 4

No.

Gender

Size

Bottom Length(m/m)

Ball Width(mm)

Ball Girth(m/m)

Waist Girth(m/m)

Instep Girth(m/m)

Back Length/Short Heel

(m/m)

Toe Spring(mm)

Heel Height(mm)

Insole Thickne

ss(mm)

M'S D 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

1 Mens 9# 278-280 94-96 258-262 261-265 268-273 　 21 16 5

W's B 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

2Women

s7# 246-248 84-86 230-233 233-236 238-242 　 18 16 5

Junior's D 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

3 Junior's 1# 211-213 76-78 200-202 202-204 208-211 　 16 15 5

Children's D

　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

4Childre

n's10#

177-179 68-70 177-179 180-182 189-191 　 16 13 4

No.

Gender

Size

Bottom Length(m/m)

Ball Width(mm)

Ball Girth(m/m)

Waist Girth(m/m)

Instep Girth(m/m)

Back Length/Short Heel

(m/m)

Toe Spring(mm)

Heel Height(mm)

Insole Thickne

ss(mm)

M'S D 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

1 Mens9#

276-278 93-95 250-254 253-257 264-269 　 20 15 5

W's B 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

2Women

s7#

244-246 82-84 220-223 223-226 231-235 　 17 15 5

Junior's D 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

3 Junior's1#

210-212 75-77 196-198 199-201 208-211 　 14 14 5

Children's D

　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

4Children

's

10#

177-179 68-70 177-179 180-182 189-192 　 14 12 3

No.

Gender

Size

Bottom Length(m/m)

Ball Width(mm)

Ball Girth(m/m)

Waist Girth(m/m)

Instep Girth(m/m)

Back Length/Short

Heel(m/m)

Toe Spring(mm)

Heel Height(mm)

Insole Thickne

ss(mm)

M'S D 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

1 Mens9#

275-277 91-93 245-249 248-252 258-263 　 15 12 3

W's B 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

2Women

s7#

244-246 81-83 218-221 221-224 229-233 　 14 11 3

Junior's D 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

3 Junior's1#

209-211 74-76 194-197 199-202 206-209 　 12 9 3

Children's D

　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

4Children

's

10#

175-177 65-67 175-177 178-180 187-190 　 11 8 3

Infants D-E 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

5 Infant's4#

125-127 58-60 147-149 150-152 153-156 　 　 　 3

No.

Gender

Size

Bottom

Length

(m/m)

Ball Width(mm)

Ball Girth(m/m)

Waist Girth(m/m)

Instep Girth(m/m)

Back Length/Short Heel m/m)

Tread point (fm heel

bottom) (mm)

Toe Spring(mm)

Heel Height(mm)

Insole Thickne

ss(mm)

W's B 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　 　

　 W's 7#240-247

74-76 210-211 213-215 221-223 338-342 156 7 1 inch No sock

　 W's 7#240-247

74-76 210-211 213-215 221-223 338-342 146 8 2 inch No sock

　 W's 7#240-247

74-76 210-211 213-215 221-223 338-342 138 9 3 inch No sock