latex sword


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Advanced weapons for active combat games

Written by Lance Kazmark

How to Build a Latex SwordWritten and Illustrated by:Lance Kazmark

All rights reserved. The reproduction of material in this book for the purpose of personal or corporate profit by photographic, electronic,or other method of retrieval is prohibited.

2004 by Lance Kazmark

Dedications and thanks:Much thanks to Steve Thompson for his help with the material in this book. Without hours of his work andwasted materials, this book would not have been possible. I would also like to thank all the people who helped to dry run the steps in thisbook. The hours spent in the workshop teaching and learning not only made this book possible, but will give me memories to last a lifetime.

1.) So, You Want to Build a Latex Weapon?

This book contains the instructions on how to build a latex sword for use in active weapons combat.

Ac t i v e w eapon s c omba t describes an activity where people participate in mock combat, typically in

a sword and sorcery or sword-era historical setting. Active weapons are padded, allowing the

participants to fight safely and without the need for extensive protective equipment. Latex weapons are

built using a lightweight fiberglass core surrounded by several layers of flat foam. The layers of foam

are carved down until the padded weapon takes on the look of a sword. To protect the foam, the

weapon is covered in a layer of liquid latex rubber. The latex forms a flexible protective barrier that,

when mixed with paint, gives the weapon a realistic appearance. The possible combinations of shapes,

colors, and, styles are almost endless!

My passion for latex weapons started fifteen years ago when I first discovered live action role-playing.

At the time, the only option for a safe weapon was a round, club like object, made of plastic pipe, round

foam, and topped off with a big wad of seat cushion foam. The boffer, as it was called, was a

functional but anticlimactic weapon that handled poorly and looked toy like. Meanwhile, in the

United Kingdom [perhaps the most noted birthplace of active weapons combat] active weapon fighters

used finely crafted weapons made of carved foam and latex. I collected every magazine and video I

could find that pictured the coveted weapons, and dreamed of the day I could own one myself. Since

that time the weapons I use evolved, turning from round, to flat but always falling short of the infamous

latex weapons! In the summer of 2000 something clicked in my brain and I decided that this was the

last year I would be without latex!

Buying latex weapons from overseas was not an option; they were far too expensive and hard to obtain.

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I had to figure out how to make them! I started to look around for instructions on how to build latex

weapons. This was not an easy search! There are several articles, web pages, and booklets on the

subject, but none seemed to answer all the questions I needed to know; what sort of foam, what sort or

glue, what sort of latex was needed? After collecting information from several sources I was able to

cough out the first few latex weapons. They looked great, but did not survive the first dry run in the

field. I brought home my collection of broken and ruined weapons and returned to the drawing board. I

had to reengineer the whole process and try again. After tweaking several steps I came up with a

weapon design that looked good and could hold up in combat. This book is the culmination of that

work.

Active Weapons Combat Safety Tips

Active weapons combat is a physical activity and so is inherently dangerous. During an active weapons

event players will be running around at full speed, over various types of terrain, and in various light

conditions. In fact, players are more likely to receive an injury from falling down than from getting hitby weapons. Active weapons combat can aggravate preexisting medical conditions such as pregnancy or

heart problems. Players with preexisting medical problems should consult a doctor before participating

in active weapons events! A few standardized rules are enforced in almost every active weapons

environment, they are:

Never aim for the head, neck, or groin of an opponent.

Never strike or thrust with excessive force; active weapons combat is about skill not force!

Never fight in dangerous settings [edge of a cliff, sewers, mines, etc.].

Do not fight in public places [school, library, city streets, etc.].

Never hit people who are not involved in the active weapons event.

Physical contact is only allowed with padded weapons. No punches, kicks, or wrestling.

Never mix drinking alcohol and active weapons fighting!

If an opponent needs to stop fighting for any reason, bring the combat to an immediate stop.

Never fight with a damaged weapon.

Never throw a weapon that is not intended for throwing.

Do not strike with the pommel or cross guards of the weapon.

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Ruler/straight edge [12-18, yard stick, and a T-square]

Tape measure GOOD TO HAVE [optional]

Permanent markers [medium tip]

Mixing sticks [you can use the handles of foam brushes killed by your DAP]

Tarps, cloth, or similar material to protect work area from spills

Roll of Duct brand tape.

Building the core

Core: 1/2 CPVC or .505 fiberglass [I get my cores from Gone With The Wind kites]

Hand saw/pipe cutter

Rubber radiator hose [diameter equal to inside diameter of core]

2 x 6 piece of thin leather or cloth [silk or canvas is best]

Building the weapon

1 sheet of medium density Plastazote foam [30x40x ]. The foam is pink in color.

Scissors

Contact cement [DAP]

Pins [finish nails or bits of paper clips will also work]

Snap blade knives [2-3 per weapon]

Sand paper [medium 100 or better]

Electric iron GOOD TO HAVE! [optional]

Wax paper GOOD TO HAVE! [optional]

Table mounted scroll saw GOOD TO HAVE! [optional]

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Table mounted power sander GOOD TO HAVE! [optional]

Hot glue gun or soldering iron USEFUL [optional]

2 pieces of 1 X 12 of thin leather or cloth [silk or canvas is best]

1 piece of X 4 metal bar stock [bar stock is available at hardware stores].

Fabric tape/leather to cover the handle when done. [Metal wire wraps will work also]

Latex

DAP, neoprene rubber formula GOOD TO HAVE [optional]

Mold builder liquid latex rubber [or similar brand]

Acrylic paint [black, silver, and gold]

Cup of water for mixing

Jars to mix latex and paint in [1 for silver, 1 for gold]

Finish

Clear brushable roof sealant [my brand name: Through the Roof]

Mineral spirits [odorless is best]

Talcum powder [If you cant find the sealant. This is a low tech way of sealing the weapon]

Jars to mix the roof sealant and mineral spirits in

Can of silicone spray

Safety Tips for Tool Use and

Construction

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This is no joke! Please be safe when you are building weapons. Dont be afraid to admit you have no

idea how to use a tool! Looking stupid is better than looking stupid minus four fingers! Many local

hardware stores will instruct you on the use of tools you buy there. Here are some tips:

Wear safety glasses at all times.

Wear rubber gloves when working with chemicals.

Work in a ventilated environment [your apartment is not the place to do this!]

When using knives, always cut away form your body/fingers/privates

If you have to push hard with a knife it is dull, get a new one!

Latex has ammonia in it and ammonia is very dangerous to your eyes!

When you are done with a chemical [latex, DAP, etc]close the container

Keep your work area clean!

If using power tools, dont work alone.

Most of this stuff is bad for little kids and animals, so please think about it!

Never use your lap for a cutting surface

The freaking iron is hot! [If you are a dolt, use an oven mitt]

When you are done working for the night, unplug all the gear

Keep a fire extinguisher handy

Keep a first aid kit handy

Dont eat the paint

People with long hair are advised to tie it back or put it up!

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Construction Time Line

First off, dont hurry! The weapon you get will look like crap and might even fall apart. The night

before an active weapons event is not the time to start building weapons! I like to take five full days to

build a weapon, but often work on several weapons at once [stick to one the first time folks]. Yes, as you

get better you can work faster, but trust me, you suck right now. Take the full five days! Here is an idea

of the time line.

Day one: Day one is simple. Take the roll of Plastazote foam and lay it flat over night. When the foam

comes out of the package it might want to constantly roll back up. This makes the foam harder to work

with and adding this extra step will save you a lot of effort. Day one is a great time to build the core ofthe weapon.

Day two:On day two you build the basic weapon. First you will assemble the basic weapon [I like to

call it the cricket bat] and let it sit for about four or five hours. When done you will cut out the blade

and finish the basic details. You will also build the cross guard and pommel, attach them, and then let it

sit. DO NOT BUILD UP THE HANDLE AT THIS POINT! If you dont let the glue dry, the weapon will

go to hell. Avoid the urge to play with the weapon at this point you are just going to mess it up!

Day three:This is the latex day! There are about six or seven layers of latex on each weapon. You must

allow at least one half hour per coats. This day will require a lot of waiting. Dont rush; the weapon will

look like ass! Once all the layers are on, let the weapon dry!

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Day four:On day four you add the sealant to the weapon. This will only take a few minutes, but it

takes a good 24 hours for the sealant to dry. If you dont let it dry the weapons will stick together! LET

IT DRY. If you are using talc instead of proper sealant [I feel for you] do day five instead and add the

talc when you are done. Talc blows, so use it only as a last resort! You can also use talc over the rubber

sealant to dull the shine and make the weapon look more realistic.

Day five:This is the big day! You finish the weapon by building up the handle and covering it with

leather or fabric tape or something. When the handle is done it is advised that the weapon sit for as

long as possible before use.

3.) Building the Core

The core is the spine of the weapon. Just like a human spine it must provide strong support but

also remain flexible. Start with a piece of fiberglass tubing, with an outside diameter of.505 inches.

Most tubes of this type will come in 54-64 inch lengths. Optionally, you can use a CPVC core instead of

fiberglass, in this case pick up a piece of CPVC. CPVC should only be use for weapons ranging from

12 to 32 in total length; any longer than 32 and the weapon will whip too much. Whip occurs when a

weapon swings off center as it is swung in combat. Imagine a fishing pole that whips as the lure is cast

out into the water. Whip is bad because a whippy weapon is hard to control and can often hit harder

than the fighter intends. To get started you will need to cut the core into a 31 section. With this size

core the finished weapon will be roughly 36-37 in total length. The Adventures in Mid-Land live action

role playing club defines a weapon of this length as a martial weapon.

1.) How to cut the core

Handsaw [best]:The best way to cut the core is with a small handsaw [hacksaw, back saw, etc.]. This

will allow you to make a smooth cut, with no damage to the core [and more importantly your fingers!].

Power saw [skill required]:A table mounted scroll or band saw is also an acceptable way to cut the

core. Using a power tool for this step takes skilltake it slow! The core will have a tendency to bounce

as you cut it so you need a firm grip. Dont forget to wear safety glasses!

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Tube cutter [worst]:Tube cutters are used to cut pipes [CPVC, copper, etc.]. This is not the best way

to cut fiberglass pipe but will work if you have no other options. If you must use a tube cutter take the

process slow. If you rush or use too much force you may fray or distort the end of the pipe. If this

happens, MAKE A NEW CUT! Never use a frayed or damaged core to make a weapon.

VERY IMPORTANT: When you make the cut make it straight! Do not cut the pipe off at

an angle! Anything but a straight cut will create a dangerous core and will also result in

the premature break down of the weapon. See figure 1.

2.) Cap the bottom [pommel end] of the core

The core is a tube and so is hollow. The raw tube must be capped to prevent the core fromripping its way through the foam of the weapon. The pommel is not a striking surface so does not

require as much preparation as the tip of the weapon. Take a piece of fabric tape and place it over the

top of the core [steps one and two], folding the excess tape down onto the core. Wrap a single piece of

tape around the core and the folded material to secure it in place [step three].

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3.) Build the stabbing tip [opposite the pommel end]

Take a 4 section of rubber hose, coat two inches of the hose with contact cement and insert it

into the core [figure 4]. Once the rubber hose is inserted into the core the total length of the core should

be 33. YOU WANT A REALLY SNUG FIT HERE! If the hose does not snuggly fit into the end of the

core it will not attach properly and may fail during combat. Never substitute the rubber hose with

another material such as foam. Anything less than flexible hose will result in a broken weapon!

If the hose is too large to fit into the end of the core, simply follow the instructions in section 3.

A. Once the hose is cut to fit the pipe, return to this step and continue building the weapon. Never use a

hose that is too small! Do not try to make up for a small hose by building up the hose with tape! This

will make the stabbing tip too rigid and cause the weapon to fail.

At this point the outside diameter of the rubber hose is smaller than that of the core. Using fabric tape

build up the outside diameter of the rubber hose until it is equal to that of the core. For a bit of

additional strength, continue the tape wrap so that it extends to cover a bit of the core. Building up the

outside diameter of the rubber hose prevents it from slipping down inside the core during combat.

LET THE CORE SIT FOR AT LEAST A HALF-HOUR!

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3. A) Making the hose fit

The stabbing tip of the weapon is made from flexible rubber hose. This rubber hose adds extra support

to the foam in the tip of the weapon but allows for a bit of flex during thrusts. Without the rubber tip

the foam at the end of the weapon will quickly tear and render the weapon useless. If the proper

diameter hose is unavailable [the rubber hose must snuggly slip into the core] for building the stabbing

tip, a larger hose might need to be modified to fit inside the core. This is called removing a cross

section from the hose. Removing a cross section from the stabbing tip hose will not reduce the

strength of the stabbing tip! In case the process is not obvious the following diagram will explain how to

remove the cross section from the hose.

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4.) Finish the stabbing tip

When the rubber tip has had time to dry, take a piece of 2 x 6 piece of thin leather or cloth

[silk or canvas is best] and DAP one side. Next, DAP the upper six inches of the core [stabbing tip end]

and let both sit for fifteen minutes. When both the core and the fabric have set for fifteen minutes

carefully wrap that stabbing tip as shown in figure 6. This fabric firmly anchors the rubber tip to the

core but still allows for a bit of flexibility. If the edges of the cloth or leather are sticking up or coming

apart, wrap a small amount of fabric tape around the tip to hold them in place. Do not completely cover

the fabric or leather with tape! This will make the tip too stiff and result in a broken weapon!

WHEN THIS IS DONE, LET THE CORE SIT FOR A HALF-HOUR!

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AFTER WATING ONE HALF-HOUR, THE CORE IS NOW COMPLETE!

4.) Building the Basic Weapon

When the core is finished work begins on the basic weapon. When finished, the basic weapon is

often referred to as the paddle or cricket bat because of its clunky rectangular appearance. Buildingthe basic weapon is, hands down, the most complex part of the weapon building process. I suggest

reading this entire section before attempting to build the actual weapon.

Working with DAP

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Building the basic weapon involves the use of DAP contact cement. DAP contact cement forms a strong,

flexible bond that will hold the weapon together without creating hard spots of dried glue. When

applying DAP to a surface it is important to spread the DAP in a thin, even coat. In order for the DAP to

adhere it must be left to dry for at least ten minutes [or until it becomes tacky to the touch]. Once the

DAP is tacky it is ready to be adhered to another surface. If you try to adhere a DAP covered surface

that is not tacky, the DAP will not stick and the pieces will fall apart. If it takes longer than fifteen

minutes for the DAP to become tacky, too much DAP was applied to the surface. Let the piece sit longer

and use less cement the next time around. Once two DAP covered surfaces touch it is very hard to

separate the pieces without damaging the foam. Be careful to keep DAP covered surfaces separated

until you are ready to adhere the two surfaces! If two DAP covered surface should adhere to each other

prematurely very slowly and carefully pull the pieces apart. DAP is very messy and I recommend

wearing gloves of some sort when working with it. Latex surgical gloves are the best option. When

working with DAP it is a good idea to wear safety glasses.

1.) Laying out the core

Take the finished core and measure seven inches in from the pommel end. Mark this distance with

a piece of tape or permanent marker. This 7 section is where the weapons pommel [end], handle, and

cross guard will go later on. The remaining 26 will become the blade of the weapon. Remember the

stabbing tip end of the weapon must be on the end of the weapon where the blade will go! These

measurements are not set into stone, but if the basic measurements in this section are changed, all

other steps must be changed also.

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2.) Cutting out the blade foam

The basic weapon is formed with three rectangular pieces of 27 X 4 foam cut from a sheet of

Plastazote foam. Before cutting inspect the foam for small tears, dents, or damage caused during

shipping. If possible avoid using damaged sections of foam. Small defects can be worked out later in the

building process [sanding and heat molding will help] but can still reduce the cosmetic value of the

finished weapon. Cut the foam with a pair of scissors or a snap blade knife [best option]. You want a

straight cut, but it does not have to perfect. Excess foam is engineered into the design to compensate for

small mistakes during the building process. Use a ruler, yardstick, or T-square to lay out the pieces. For

ease of description the three sections of foam should be marked A, B, and C. Piece A: Piece A is the

center layer of the basic weapon. A X 26 section of foam [or channel] is removed from the

center of the piece. This should leave 1 of foam from the end of the core to the tip of the weapon.

This channel is where the core will be located when the weapon is complete. Piece B: Piece B isconsidered the bottom piece of the basic weapon. A X 26 rectangle is drawn on the center of this

piece to aid in assembling the weapon later on. We call this line the core guide. DO NOT CUT THIS

RECTANGLE OUT; IT IS ONLY A GUIDE!Piece C: Piece C is considered the top of the basic weapon.

No additional marks are made on this piece at this time.

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3.) Add blade reinforcement

With repeated use it is possible for the hard core of the sword to damage the foam in the tip of the

weapon. Eventually the core may rip through the foam rendering the weapon useless. To extend the life

of the weapon two pieces of 1 X 12 of thin [thin enough that the fabric will not create a gap betweenthe pieces of finished foam] leather or cloth [silk or canvas is best] are attached to the pieces of foam

marked B and C. For best results adhere the fabric so the weave of the fabric runs diagonally, not

horizontally in relation to the end of the core [as shown in example one in figure three]. Apply DAP to

one side of the foam where the cloth will be attached and one side of the fabric and let sit for ten

minutes.

After waiting ten minutes, place one end of the fabric at the end of the core guide and smoothly place

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the fabric on the foam. Repeat the process on the second piece of foam. To make assembling the basic

weapon easier it might be a good idea to remark the location of the core guide on piece B. It is

important that the fabric covers the area of foam where the rubber stabbing tip and the hard core are

joined. This is the place most likely to wear out during use. It is also important that the fabric does not

extend too close to the end of the weapon [stabbing tip end] or it will get in the way when the weapon is

carved into shape.

THERE IS NO NEED TO LET THE WEAPON DRY. MOVE TO STEP 4 WITHOUT

FURTHER DELAY.

4.) Assemble the blade [part 1]

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DAP one side of piece A; it does not matter which side. Second, apply DAP to the side of piece B marked

with the core guide. Third, DAP the 26 of core where the blade will go and hang the core to dry. When

DAP is applied to the pieces of foam it may cause them to curl; this is not a problem. The foam will lie

flat once the core is adhered to it. Let the DAP sit until it is tacky to the touch. When the DAP is ready

attach the core to piece B by lining up the core with the core guide to keep the core straight [figure 4].

Make sure the core is evenly and firmly stuck to piece B before continuing on.

Next take piece A and, working from the stabbing tip to the pommel end of the weapon, carefully attach

it to piece B [figure 5]. This part of the process can get a bit tricky. The first few times it might be a good

idea to have a couple extra hands to help out. When attaching piece A to piece B, do not pull or tug on

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piece A! Let the foam fall into a natural position. Pulling on the foam will cause bends and twists in the

finished basic weapon.

Make sure the edges of the core channel form a snug fit around the core as the piece [piece A] of foam is

put into place [figure 6]. If the fit between the foam and the core is not snug the weapon will developweak spots and break down quickly. If for some reason large gaps are left when piece A is in place, fill

the gaps with small bits of Plastazote foam.

5.) Marking the core location on piece B

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When the basic weapon is complete it may be hard to find the location of the core when making further

measurements [you need to know where the core is to sculpt the blade]. To aid in this, the location of

the core is marked on the bottom of piece B. To do this, push two pins through the top of piece B from

the direction of piece A near the end of the core. Mark the exact location of the two pins on the bottom

of piece B; then remove the pins. The pins will not cause permanent marks in the surface of the finished

sword.

6.) Assemble the blade [part 2]

DAP the exposed side of piece A and the side of piece C that has the blade reinforcement. Make

sure to cover the exposed core with DAP also. Let the DAP dry until tacky to the touch. Attach piece to C

to piece A. Press firmly on the blade to make sure all sections of the foam are completely stuck together.

Also make sure the weapon is free of twists and bends. The finished basic weapon should lay flat when

placed on an even surface. Chances are the edges of the basic weapon do not form a perfect rectangle.

Dont panic; having an even edged basic weapon is not important as long as the core is centered

appropriately. Continue to apply pressure to the finished weapon over time to make sure the glue

continues to stick in a uniform fashion. When this step is complete the weapon should look like the

weapon show in figure eight on the following page.

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THE BASIC WEAPON IS NOW COMPLETE! LET THE WEAPON SIT FOR AT LEAST FIVE

HOURS BEFORE MOVING ONTO THE NEXT STEP!

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5.) Sculpting the Blade

Now comes the fun part of the process, sculpting the blade! This is when the raw uninteresting lump of

foam you are building starts to look like a sword! The measurements in this section will result in a wideand fairly heavy sword. This style of sword is good for first time sword builders since it allows for a

larger number of mistakes during construction, and will make a weapon that is strong and lasts a long

time. At this point in the construction of the weapon a bit more attention must be paid to making

precise cuts. There is a little room for error, but not much. When cutting the foam it is better to err on

the side of caution. It is always easier to cut more foam off than it is to reattach it! Small nicks and bad

cuts are easy to explain away as battle nicks in the blade. This part of the process is not as easy as it

looks! Avoid the temptation to get creative with the blade shape. Keep it simple and stick to the

manual.

1.) Draw the basic shape

The first step in sculpting the sword is drawing out the basic shape. This is where the core location

marks made when building the basic weapon are important. Turn the basic weapon so that the core

location marks are face up. Using a ruler make a mark exactly 1 to the left and right of the core location

marks. On the foam at the handle end of the sword make a mark exactly 1 to the left and right of the

core. Using a yardstick and a marker draw a straight line and connect the 1 mark and the 1 mark,and then repeat on the other side of the blade.

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Next, using the tip template [figure 3] draw the tip shape on the stabbing tip end of the weapon. The

bottom of the template should be placed so it lines up with the two core location marks. This will insure

there is enough foam between the stabbing tip on the core and the tip of the weapon.

1. A) The tip template

The following is the basic tip shape I use to sculpt my tips. This shape allows for a nice fat tip that looks

like the tip of a sword but is not so small that it presents an eye hazard. Feel free to make a copy of this

page, cut out the template, and use it to build your weapons. Make sure the size of the tip template isclose to the dimensions of the lines of the sword blade. If the lines seem off, increase or decrease the

size of the tip template to compensate.

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2.) Cut out the basic shape

Using a snap blade knife or table mounted scroll saw [the scroll saw is by far the best option]

carefully cut out the basic shape. Make sure the saw and knife blades are in good condition and sharp.

Expect to eat up at least two knife blades cutting out the basic shape. Scroll saw blades will last through

the construction of several weapons. When cutting with a knife it is very important to cut straight up

and down. If the knife is held at an angle the final cut will be lopsided. This can be fixed with sanding,

but will add a lot of work and time to the project. If for some reason, the weapon core is not properly

seated in the channel of the foam, there might be a bump or raised area on the flat of the blade. This

is not a problem, but attention must be paid to this uneven surface when cutting the basic shape. If the

weapon is leaning to one side or the other, the cut will be crooked! It is also recommended that the

builder hold the foam and not the section of exposed core when cutting the basic shape. Holding just

the exposed core will make controlling the foam difficult during the cutting process. Once the basic

shape is cut, use sandpaper to clean up any bad or uneven cuts. Dont spend too much time smoothing

out the blade at this point; there is more time for that later.

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3.) Draw the blade edge

Looking at the top of the weapon, use a ruler to measure in from the outside edge of the basic

shape and make a mark. Repeat this process several times and then connect the marks using a

yardstick and marker. Duplicate this process on the both sides of the weapon [top and bottom]. For

sake of description we call this line the blade top line.

4.) Sculpting the blade edge

Using a snap blade knife or table mounted scroll saw [by far the best option] make a 30 cut from

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the blade top line to the top of piece A. Repeat the cut on the opposite side of the blade then flip the

weapon over and repeat on the other side. Finally, use a snap blade knife to trim the tip of the weapon

to the same specifications. If using a table mounted scroll saw to cut the blade, do not use the saw to

sculpt the tip! Using a power saw to sculpt the tip requires a steady hand and a good eye; it is far too

easy to make bad cuts and ruin the blade! Using a table mounted scrolls saw for cutting the blade edge

is good because the saw can be set to cut at a 30angle. This will allow for a straight even cut with little

or no effort. Try not to cut to close to either the weapon top line or the top of piece A. A close cut might

reduce sanding and finish work, but at the same time, one slip up can ruin the weapon!

5.) Touch up the blade

At this point the blade has taken shape! Use sandpaper to clean up any really bad or uneven cuts.

The more time you spend sanding the better the finished weapon will look. Avoid the temptation to

sand too much. There comes a point when you just have to stop and accept the quality of the weapon

you have. Avoid sanding into the seams between the layers of foam. The foam in this location will not

sand evenly and sanding may cause rips and tears in the foam!

THE FINISH SCULPTED BLADE SHOULD LOOK SOMETHING LIKE THIS:

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6.) Trim the bottom of the blade

If the bottom of the blade is uneven you can use a snap blade knife to trim it down. The bottom of

the blade must be as flush as possible so the cross guard [attached at a later time] sits in place correctly.

Dont be afraid to trim off as much as 2 of foam if need be; you can afford to lose a little length from

the blade.

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THE SCULPTED BLADE IS FINISHED!

6.) Finishing the blade

After the blade is cut to shape the edges are going to be rough and a bit uneven, and will make it hard to

coat the weapon with latex. Thankfully, Plastazote foam is heat moldable and can be given a smooth

finish with a simple household iron and some wax paper! I recommend the cheapest iron you can find

[6 dollars or less] because it will see a lot of abuse! The best setting for working with foam is low to

medium. On most irons this setting is described as silk or synthetics on the irons dial. To get use to

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working with the iron try working on a few scraps of foam before you start working on an actual

weapon. If the iron is too hot it will stick to the foam, and when you try to remove the iron it will tear

the surface of the foam! This will also happen if you hold the iron in one place for too long; so keep the

iron moving!

1.) The flat of the blade

Take a 29-32 [or use enough to cover all the foam you intend to iron] sheet of wax paper and place it

on the top of the weapon. Set the weapon on a flat surface like a table or ironing board. Carefully move

the iron along the surface of the foam making sure to keep the iron moving. Continue to work the iron

until any small creases are removed from the surface of the foam. When done, carefully remove the wax

paper from the surface of the foam. If the wax paper is removed too quickly it may tear the foam!

Repeat the process on the opposite side of the weapon. If the weapon is still rough let it cool down and

repeat the process until a satisfactory finished is achieved.

2.) The edges of the blade

Take a 29-32 [or use enough to cover all the foam you intend to iron] sheet of wax paper and cover

the edges of the blade. Hold the weapon in one hand and the iron in the other; carefully work the ironalong the surface of the foam making sure to keep the iron moving. The edges of the blade are the

roughest and will require the most finish work. If the edges of the weapon are rough, do a little work

with the iron without a sheet of wax paper. Once the worst of the rough spots are bit smoother, rework

the blade with wax paper. When done, carefully remove the wax paper from the surface of the foam. If

the wax paper is removed too quickly it may tear the foam! If the weapon is still rough let it cool down

and repeat the process until a satisfactory finished is achieved

7.) Adding the Cross guard

The cross guard of a sword protects the users hand from attack and allows the sword to stop and

control an opponents weapon. Cosmetically, the cross guard gives the weapon that sword like

appearance that adds important flair to the finished weapon. This section describes the simplest option

for a cross guard. The cross guard design detailed below is simple to build and is very durable, making

it an ideal choice for first time weapon builders. It is perfectly acceptable to experiment with different

shapes and designs of cross guard. For example, the cross guard featured on the front cover of this

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manual [Roman style] is made from several layers of foam. Choice of cross guard is a cosmetic choice,

but is also affected by the fighting habits of the builder.

1.) Cut out the cross guard

Using the cross guard template draw the cross guard shape onto a single layer of Plastazote foam;

make sure to mark the center circle. Carefully cut out the cross guard with a snap blade knife, scissors,

or table mounted band saw. Use a snap blade knife to cut the center hole out of the cross guard; this is

where the core will go. If the cross guard is rough or uneven use sandpaper and the iron to touch it up a

bit. Based on the final measurements of the blade it may be necessary to increase the size of the cross

guard template. To increase the size of the cross guard template simply photo copy the page and

increase the size using the copiers enlargement option.

2.)Attach the cross guard

First, apply DAP to the core at the end of the blade where the cross guard will sit. Next, DAP the top

of the cross guard where the blade and cross guard will meet. Finally, DAP the bottom of the blade

where the blade and the cross guard will meet. While the DAP is still wet push the cross guard into

place on the core. Make sure the cross guard is straight then let the weapon sit for at least thirty

minutes. The cross guard should firmly attach to the bottom of the blade; do not leave gaps or spaces! If

the DAP does not adhere right away, let the weapon sit for a while then press the cross guard against

the blade to get a tight fit. If for some reason there are still gaps between the sword blade and the cross

guard, fill the gaps with small chunks of foam. Gaps in this area will weaken the cross guard and make

the weapon harder to latex.

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AFTER WATING ONE HALF-HOUR, THE CROSS GUARD IS NOW COMPLETE! MOVE

ONTO THE POMMEL.

8.) Adding the Pommel

The pommel of a real sword offers a counter balance to offset the weight of the blade. For safety reasons

the pommel of a latex sword is made of foam as opposed to a metal counter weight. The pommel of a

padded sword serves three functions. First, the foam pommel protects people from accidental contact

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with the hard inner core during combat. Secondly, the pommel adds to the cosmetic appearance of the

weapon. Finally, it gives you a great place to rest your hand while looking cool standing in the tavern.

The pommel described in the instructions below is a sort of rounded rectangle. While not the most

cosmetically appealing option, it is very durable and easy to build.

1.) Cut out the pommel pieces

Start by cutting three 3x3 squares of Plastazote foam. Just like the blade, when selecting the foam

for the pommel, use only the best pieces. Avoid pieces with nicks, creases, or wrinkles. For ease of

description, mark these pieces as A, B, and C.

Piece A:Piece A is the top of the pommel.

Piece B:Piece B is the center of the pommel. Cut a x 1 channel out of the center of this piece; this

is where the core will go.

Piece C: Piece C is the bottom of the pommel.

2.)Assemble the pommel pieces

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Apply DAP to one side of piece A [it does not matter which side], one side of piece C [it does not matter

which side], and both sides of piece B. Let the DAP sit until tacky to the tough and then assemble as

show in figure two. Let the pommel pieces set for at least twenty minutes.

3.) Layout the pommel

Using the pommel template [figure 3] draw the pommel onto the assembled foam pieces [figure four 4,

step 1]. Make sure the slot where the core will go is at the bottom of the pommel. The bottom of the

pommel is the square flat part. If a larger pommel is desired, simply increase the size of pommeltemplate by photocopying the page and increasing the size using the copiers enlargement option.

Larger pommel size is a mostly cosmetic choice, but a larger pommel will increase the life span of the

weapon. The pommel in figure 3 is the smallest suggested pommel size. Making a smaller pommel than

this will certainly reduce the life span of the weapon. Players who have the habit of resting their hand

on the pommel should think about a larger pommel than the one shown in figure 3. A larger pommel

will reduce the amount of wear the pommel receives from contact with a players hand.

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4.) Cut out the pommel

Once the foam is marked use a snap knife or table mounted scroll saw to cut out the pommel shape

[figure 4, step 2]. If the cut out pommel is rough or a bit uneven touch it up with sandpaper and the

iron [as described in chapter six]. Be very careful when cutting out the pommel with a saw or knife. Due

to the small size of the pommel piece it is easy to slip and cut an errant finger. People new to tools

might consider leaving a small amount of additional foam around the cutting line of the pommel. While

this wastes a bit more foam than normally required, it will give the novice crafter a bit more to holdonto while cutting.

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5.) Attach the pommel to the core

Apply a generous amount of DAP to the last inch of the core and slip the pommel in place. Do not let

the DAP dry before attaching the pommel! Once the pommel is attached, make sure it is straight, and

then let the whole weapon set for at least twenty minutes. If the pommel does not snuggly fit onto the

core, remove the pommel and wrap the core with a few additional layers of fabric tape. Apply more DAP

and slip the pommel back into place. The fabric tape is used because glue adheres to fabric tape more

readily than the core or any other type of tape.

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THE WEAPON IS NOW COMPLETE! IT IS TIME TO MOVE ON TO THE LATEX.

Advanced pommel technique

An advanced technique for building pommels includes the use of a power drill or drill press. Instead of

cutting a channel into pommel piece B, simply cut and glue together three solid rectangles of foam

[pieces A, B, and C]. After the pommel pieces are assembled and dry, use a drill or drill press to drill a

hole into the foam where the pommel end of the core will fit. Always use a drill bit that is just a bit

smaller than the outside diameter of the weapon core. Drill the hole to a depth equal to half the length

of the pommel. If the hole is too shallow the pommel will weaken and fall off. Using this technique will

create the tightest fit, and drastically increase the life span of the weapon.

9.) Latex

Now is the fun part; adding the latex to the finished weapon! The primary job of the latex is to form a protective layer over the foam

protecting it from the elements and damage. Secondary to that is the cosmetic value the latex adds to the weapon. Adding paint to the

raw latex allows the weapon to take on similar colors to a real sword giving it that highly sought after realistic look. As always, the more

time you take working with the latex the better the finished product will look. Latex is not a tricky substance to work with

and is very similar to working with paint. The most important thing to remember when working with

latex is to keep the work area clean! Little bits of dirt, foam scrap, and other garbage will get into the

latex and ruin the weapons cosmetic appeal. Latex contains ammonia, so it is recommend that you

work with latex in a ventilated area [garage, outside, etc.]. Ammonia is very harmful to the eyes so wear

safety glasses when working with latex. To get the smoothest finish possible the latex is applied to the

weapon with foam brushes. When done with the brush clean it in warm water or the latex will ruin it.

Apply the latex to the weapon in thin, even coats; dont try to add too much latex too quickly. If the

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latex is too thick add a few tablespoons of water to the raw latex [to the latex container not the

weapon!] to thin it out. Never set the wet latex weapon down! Use clamps and strings to hang the

weapon until it dries. Let the latex hang about twenty minutes between coats [or longer if need be]. If

you try to rush you will ruin the smooth finish of the weapon! Raw latex is translucent so when you mix

color with it the color will seem lighter than normal. When the latex dries, the color will be darker.

Latex and paint

Mixing paint and latex is a fine art that might require some experimenting to get right. Simple colors

like brown, black, and non-metallic gray are very easy to work and are readily available. Metallic colors

like gold and silver can have a violent reaction with the latex and turn the finished weapon into a sticky

mess. I suggest using Games Workshop metallic acrylic paints when mixing metallic colors. No doubt

there are other metallic paints that will work just as well, but I have no experience with them. If Games

Workshop paints are not available carefully experiment with metallic paints until you find one that

works. Weapon builders on a budget might consider using non-metallic gray and browns instead of

experimenting with metallic paints.

1.) Primer layer and raw latex layer

To give the latex a solid anchor to the foam underneath we start with a special coat called the primer

layer. Coat all exposed foam with a thin layer of neoprene DAP and let it sit until the DAP is tacky to

the touch. When the DAP is tacky immediately add a layer of raw latex and let the weapon hang for

twenty to thirty minutes. When the primer layer is dry, cover the entire weapon with a thin even coat of

raw latex and let the weapon hang for an additional twenty minutes. Continue to add layers of raw latex

until the weapon has a total of four coats of raw, uncolored latex.

2.) Black latex coat

At this point a basic black color is added to the weapon to cover up the pink Plastazote foam. Mix a few

tablespoons of black acrylic paint to raw latex until it takes on a dark gray to black appearance. Add a

little water to thin the entire mix. Coat the entire weapon in a coat of black latex and let it hang for

twenty minutes. When dry, the weapon will have a thin translucent or streaky black appearance. When

the first coat is dry, add another layer of black latex and let the weapon hang for twenty minutes. When

this layer is dry the weapon should be black in color. A few steaks of pink may still be visible, but these

can be ignored. At this point the weapon has six coats of latex [4 layers of raw latex, and 2 coats of

black]. If for, some reason, the raw foam is not completely covered with black, feel free to add another

coat of latex. Try not to exceed three black coats.

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3.) Blade coats

Now comes the time to color the blade. Mix a few tablespoons of silver acrylic paint to raw latex until it

takes on a light silver color. Add a little water to thin the entire mix. Coat the blade and cross guard

[there is no need to coat the pommel with silver] of the weapon with a coat of silver latex and let the

weapon hang for twenty minutes. When the first silver coat is dry add a second coat of silver latex to the

blade and cross guard of the weapon and let it hang for twenty minutes. The blade and cross guard

should have a dark silver appearance when dry. At this point the blade and cross guard have eight coats

of latex [4 layers of raw latex, 2 coats of black, and 2 coats of silver].

4.) Touch-up cross guard

Next, cover the cross guard with another coat of black latex to cover up the silver latex from step three.

This might seem redundant, but the process is important to the overall strength of the latex finish.

When the cross guard is finished it will be gold, but if the silver blade coats only cover the blade, a weak

spot in the latex will form at the border between the blade and the cross guard. Let the weapon hang for

twenty minutes. If there is some silver showing through the black it can be ignored at this stage.

5.) Final pommel and cross guard coats

Now comes the time to color the pommel and cross guard. Mix a few tablespoons of gold acrylic

paint to raw latex until it takes on a light gold or yellow color. Add a little water to thin the entire mix.

Coat the cross guard [carefully avoiding the blade] and the pommel and let the weapon hang for twenty

minutes. When this is dry add a second coat the cross guard and the pommel and let the weapon dry for

twenty minutes.

Even when latex is dry it is very sticky! The dry weapon can pick up dirt and garbage and even

stick to other weapons. Make sure the weapon hangs until you are ready to seal the weapon! If dirt or

garbage does stick to the outside try to remove it with a wet foam brush. If the weapon should stick to

another weapon carefully attempt to pull the two weapons apart.

10.) Sealant

Even when dry latex is sticky and will adhere to hands, weapons, and everything else it touches. To

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prevent this, the whole weapon is covered with a clear rubber sealant. The sealant also serves as yet

another protective layer for the finished weapon. In the past, talcum powder was used as a sealant for

latex weapons but this method is deemed a bit low-tech now. While somewhat effective, talcum powder

is a temporary and inefficient sealant and only recommended if no other option is available. If talcum

powder is the only option, simply apply a powder coat to the finished weapon. Over a very short period

the talcum powder will wear off, and the weapon will require a fresh powder coat. Talcum powder can

also be used to dull the finish of weapons that are coated with the rubber sealant.

Working with the sealant

The sealant I use is a clear rubber roof repair compound called Through the Roof but any

similar product will do. Directly out of the can the sealant is far too thick to apply to the weapon so it

must be thinned with mineral spirits [I recommend odorless]. If the sealant is too thick when applied to

the weapon it will leave clumps of residue and ruin the cosmetic look of the finished weapon. Add

mineral spirits to the sealant until it achieves a consistency roughly equivalent to maple syrup. Rubber

sealant is extremely messy to work with! Not only does it get everywhere but also it is very hard to clean

up. I recommend wearing gloves during this step. As always, wear protective glasses when working with

chemicals!

Applying the sealant

Using a foam brush apply a thin, even coat of sealant to the entire weapon. The best way to apply the

sealant is to start with a liberal amount of sealant on one point of the weapon and then spread it until a

thin even coat is achieved. Once the entire weapon is covered, hang the weapon to dry for a minimum

of eight hours [twenty four hours is best]. Before eight hours has passed the weapon is highly

susceptible to sticking to other weapons! If this happens the result is almost always two ruined

[cosmetically speaking] weapons. When the sealant is dry the weapon will have a glossy appearance

that will dull over time. The sealant will ruin the brushes used to apply it so dont bother trying to save

them.

11.) The Handle

The handle is the last step in building a latex weapon. The handle provides a comfortable handgrip that

increases the cosmetic value of the weapon, and makes it easier to wield in combat. The handle is

constructed from Plastazote foam and strips of metal, and then covered with a layer or fabric tape,

fabric, or leather. The foam and metal build up the grip so it fits comfortably in the hand, and the metal

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bars act as a counter balance making the weapon easier to control. If the grip is too small, the sword

will be hard to control in combat, but if the grip is too large the weapon will be hard to hold. Getting the

right size grip is mostly a matter of personal preference and experimentation. The tape/fabric/leather

wrapped around the handle creates a slip proof surface that prevents dropping the weapon. If you plan

to wear a glove during combat it might be a good idea to try the grip out while wearing the glove.

1.) Measure the handle

At this point, there is no exact measurement for the handle of the sword. Small differences in

measurements during the building process will make the handle length of each weapon unique. To

proceed, a measurement must be taken from the end of the pommel to the bottom of the cross guard.

For ease of reference this measurement is know as the handle length or HL. All handle measurements

will be based on this number. The typical HL is about six inches.

2.)Assemble the top and bottom of handle

Cut two, HL sections of metal bar stock. The bar stock should already be inch wide and so must

simply be cut to length. A hack saw is the best tool to cut the metal strips with. Always wear safety

glasses, and watch for sharp edges on the finished pieces. Compare the pieces of bar stock to the handle

of the sword to make sure they are the right size. If need be, trim the piece of bar stock until it forms a

snug fit. Apply a coat of DAP to the handle section of the core, and place the bar stock into place over

the DAP [as shown in figure 1]. Once the metal bars are in place use several pieces of duct or electrical

tape to further secure the metal bars in place.

LET THE HANDLE SIT FOR TEN MINUTES!

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3.)Assemble the sides of the handle

Cut two, 1 x HL sections of Plastazote foam [there should be plenty of scrap foam left over from

building the weapon]. Using several pieces of fabric tape attach one piece of foam to both sides of the

handle as shown in figure 2. Tape is used in place of DAP so that small adjustment can be made to the

shape and density of the handle. Take the sword in hand and feel the grip. If the handle is too small add

another layer of foam to each side of the weapon. Continue to add foam until the grip feels comfortable.

The shape of the handle can be adjusted by applying more tape and compressing the foam until a

desired handle is achieved. It is also acceptable to add additional strip of metal bar stock to both

increase the size of the handle and improve the counter balance. It is also possible to add a layer of

foam over the metal bar stock to make a softer handle.

THERE IS NO NEED TO WAIT FOR THE DAP TO DRY. PROCEED TO THE NEXT STEP

IMMEDIATELY.

4.)Wrap the handle

To make the grip slip proof it is wrapped with fabric tape, fabric, or leather. The easiest way to wrap

the handle is with fabric tape. Simple take a roll of fabric tape in a color you like and spiral wrap the

handle until all the foam and bar stock is covered [figure 3]. Optionally, and for a better look, the

handle can be wrapped with fabric or leather by using DAP. Thin metal wire is another option for

covering the handle. Not only does this look great, but it can also act as additional counterbalance for

the sword! Never wrap the handle with duct tape or electrical tape; this will result in a slippery handle!

The photo below figure 3 shows a latex long sword with a brown leather handle wrap.

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12.) Care & Repair

CareCongratulations, the long road is at an end and now you have a completed latex weapon! Unlike

a real sword a latex weapon is made of foam and rubber not steel and wood. Latex weapons can take

some serious abuse but there is a limit! When using latex weapons [or any padded weapon for that

matter] avoid the following:

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Heat: Keep latex weapons away from heat [campfires, portable lanterns, etc.] and out of direct

sunlight. All sorts of bad things can happen to the weapon if it is allowed to get hot; the glue can fail,

the foam breaks down, and the latex will perish! When going to and from events do not keep weapons

in a hot car trunk or back window. When you get home unpack the weapons immediately.

Cold:Extreme cold temperatures will kill a weapon just as fast as heat. In addition, if it gets too cold

weapons can become really stiff and unsafe. If this happens you might want to seek a warm tavern and

thaw out a bit!

Water:Water is not as much of a problem as heat and cold since latex weapons have a rubber seal on

them. However, taking a swim with weapons can cut down on their life span a bit. If weapons get wet

wipe them off with a dry rag and continue on. If you do not have a rubber sealed weapon [a.k.a. thetalcum monster] you might want to flee and give the weapons a talcum coating.

Hitting solid objects:Padded weapons are meant to hit equal squishy targets [such as people]. Do

not hit solid objects like walls, trees, or cars it will cause the weapons padding to break down and the

weapon will become unsafe. Likewise do not use the weapon as a walking stick or lean on the weapons

tip in any fashion. This will break down the foam really fast!

Crushing weight:Never set heavy objects on a latex weapon it will crush the foam and deform the

latex! In most cases this happens when people hastily pack their car after an event and set heavy things

like armor or coolers on the weapon pile.

Repair

Active weapons combat is hazardous to padded weapons and you should expect some damage when

you play. Latex weapons will develop small wrinkles in the foam during use; this is normal and is not a

sign of a bad weapon. The glossy finish of the weapon will also tend to scuff up over time; once again

this is not a problem. If it appears the weapon is losing the rubber sealant coat the weapon can be

coated again. In most cases if a latex weapon suffers damage it is best to scrap that weapon and start

over. The most common damage to latex weapons is unexpected rips in the foam caused from sharp

objects such as armor or tree limbs. If the tear is small and does not expose the core, apply a small

amount of DAP to both sides of the ripped foam, let it sit for about ten minutes and then stick the foam

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together again. If needed, the latex and rubber sealant can be touched up in the area.

Another common problem with latex weapons is loose pommels. Due to the size of the pommel, there is

only so much surface area to glue it to the core. Over time this may start to work free and become loose.

Should the pommel come off it is possible to glue it back on and continue to use the weapon. For the

most part, once the pommel comes off it will continue to happen. When the problem becomes too

annoying it is best to take the handle apart, build a new pommel, and attach it just like when the

weapon was constructed.

Using old cores to make new weapons

There is no need to toss out cores when old weapons go bad. If you plan to use an old core tomake a new weapon simply cut a slit down the foam like you are gutting a fish. Remove as much of the

foam as you can with your hands. When the bulk of the foam is removed from the core use a snap blade

knife to cut away large clumps of foam that remain. You can also use sandpaper. There is no need to

remove every last bit of the foam from the core. In fact, a thin coating of old foam will help the glue set

on the next weapon. Never sand or cut at the core to the point where you are scraping the core directly.

Sanding or cutting into the core can create weak points that will reduce the life of the weapon. Before

you use an old core inspect the core for cracks, dents, and other deformities. If a bad section is found on

the core, see if you can cut that part out and use the core for a shorter weapon. If the core is over two

years old, you might want to think about getting a new core.

Latex Weapon Upgrade

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latex sword

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