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© Project SOUND

Out of the Wilds and Into Your Garden

Gardening with Western L.A. County Native Plants Project SOUND – 2011 (our 7th year)

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Lawns Gone Wild

C.M. Vadheim and T. Drake

CSUDH & Madrona Marsh Preserve

Madrona Marsh Nature Center

January 8, 2011

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2011 Theme: Mindful Gardening

(understanding options/choices for your garden) © Project SOUND

The two most important tools in the

mindful gardener’s toolkit

1. A thoughtful (question posing) attitude 2. Time spent watching and thinking about your garden

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A traditional sod lawn may be the best

solution...

Tough – stands up to kids, dogs, play and even worse

Evergreen – and a nice medium green color

Smooth – good playing surface

Gardener’s can manage them

http://molkkyusa.com/

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Many benefits of a healthy conventional lawn

Reduces soil erosion

Filters contaminants from rainwater

Absorbs airborne pollutants like dust and soot

Great at converting carbon dioxide to oxygen.

http://xploring.org/tag/green/

54 million Americans mow their lawns each weekend.

5% of U.S. air pollution comes from traditional gas-powered lawn mowers.

80 pounds of carbon dioxide is released into the atmosphere each year by the average gas-powered mower.

800 million gallons of gas are consumed each year by gas mowers.

Source: Environmental Protection Agency and People Powered Machines

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So, ideally you should choose a conventional turf lawn

based on conscious weighing of pros & cons…

…rather than simply going

with the ‘usual’ solution

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You may conclude that you do need some lawn…but

can reduce it’s size

Giving you more space to use

as you desire (whatever that

may be)

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What do you really want from

your ‘lawn area’?

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Your first answer may

be ‘drought tolerant’

http://www.calecodesign.com/Gallery.html

Cities/water districts are promoting incentive programs

Beautiful Long Beach Lawn-to-Garden Incentive Program

Also programs in Santa Monica, City of L.A., other areas

These programs may give you the extra incentive to re-think your lawn space – but they can’t tell you what’s right for your yard

http://laist.com/2010/03/31/long_beach_is_now_paying_people_to.php

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Just because it’s drought-tolerant doesn’t

mean it’s right for you

http://www.citydirt.net/2008/01/ © Project SOUND

What things don’t you like about your

current ‘lawn are’? Too water-thirsty Needs too much fertilizer &

pesticides Time spent mowing could be

spent more enjoyably Cost of gardener to maintain Not used any more – kids grown Poor habitat value Boring Full of weeds Lawn doesn’t grow very well –

too shady or too hot Doesn’t reflect the natural

heritage of western L.A. co.

What can I do to avoid these pitfalls in

my ‘new lawn’?

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What do you like about your current lawn?

A place for kids to play Green most of the year Cool in summer Mowing – it gets us outside

and working/exercising Looks good with the design

of the house Easy to maintain Reduces erosion; allows

water to infiltrate Takes up CO2 Whatever it is you like about

your lawn

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Your lawn – before you removed it

The good things

Green in Spring/Summer Looks neat & tidy Can be walked on Mowing – enjoy occasionally

The bad things

Requires too much water Not local native – would

prefer that

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Your personal lists will help you make a

choice that’s right for your garden

Green in Spring/Summer Looks neat & tidy Can be walked on Mowing – enjoy occasionally

Requires too much water Not local native – would

prefer that

The good things The bad things

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Saltgrass – Distichlis spicata

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Saltgrass

Stiff perennial grass with numerous long stems

Warm-season grass

Sod-forming – spreads by rhizomes

May grow flat or more erect (4-16 inches tall)

Looks somewhat like Bermuda Grass

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Keys to a successful Saltgrass lawn

Lawns usually started from plugs or cut sections of rhizomes

Best done in winter

Bury rhizomes 1-2 inches

Keep ground moist until established

Needs full sun

Needs winter moisture; can water in summer to keep green

Mow infrequently

Needs no/little added fertilizer

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Benefits of Saltgrass

Can withstand harsh conditions – salt/alkali soils, seasonal flooding, seasonal drought

Good habitat for birds (seeds and cover) and butterflies (Skippers)

good for controlling wind or water erosion

Highly resistant to trampling –even for playing fields

Looks like Bermuda Grass – and can be treated like it

But….

1. It really does best – and is most water-wise – with summer-fall drought

2. It is coarse-looking – and feeling (like Bermuda-grass) © Project SOUND

Perhaps you’d like something a little less

tough – but more refined looking

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Creeping Wild Rye - Leymus triticoides

http://www.elnativogrowers.com/Photographs_page/leytri.htm

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Creeping Wildrye is quite versatile

Any soil texture, but should be well-drained

Tolerates alkali soils & salty soils

Low/no fertilizer needed

Full sun to light shade

Water: it takes what it gets – will stay green with some summer water

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Uses for Creeping Wild Rye

Nice, green native lawn grass – and takes well to mowing

Good for erosion control

Suited for washes, riparian areas – probably our best native for vernal swales

Good bank stabilizer and weed suppressor

http://www.hastingsreserve.org/NativeGrass/Natives.html#LeymusTrit

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Mowing your Creeping Wild Rye (or

other native grass)

Mowing is tolerated well

Mowing changes how it looks - will look just like a turf grass (Bermuda Grass)

Mow every 3-4 weeks during growth season only

Set mower high – as high as it will go is best

http://www.albrightseed.com/wildryeswalefilter.htm

Hint: this grass spreads by

runners – may want to grow in

contained area or limit water

http://www.treehugger.com/files/2008/09/review-push-reel-mower-lawnmower-sunlawn-lmm-40.php

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Dune (Seaside) Bentgrass – Agrostis pallens

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Dune (Seaside) Bentgrass – Agrostis pallens

Cool-season perennial bunchgrass that also spreads via runners & reseeding

Summer dormant in nature – turns an attractive golden brown

Native to dunes – does great in sandy soils

Full sun to part-shade

Water: Zone 1-2 to 2-3 (for summer green)

Use as an ornamental grass, meadow grass or (small) mowed lawn

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Weighing the pros & cons of locally native

‘lawn grasses’ Pros

Locally native

Tough

Easy to grow

Can be very drought tolerant

Can be mowed occasionally – or left unmowed

Cons Some (like Saltgrass) are

coarse looking

Really best – and most water-wise – with some summer/fall drought

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But they ARE from northern CA – so need some summer water to look good

http://turfgrassmanagement.psu.edu/species.cfm

http://www.mobot.org/gardeninghelp/plantfinder/Plant.asp?cod

e=G880 http://www.soquelcreekwater.com/images/Pho-Grass_festuca_rubra.jpg

Native Fescues can

make nice lawn

grasses

http://www.ibot.cas.cz/krkonose/mm/mm.htm

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The really ‘lawn-like’ native grasses are from

further North (and require more water)

Festuca rubra ‘Molate’ - ‘Molate’ Red Fescue

Spreading/bunching – the most lawn-like of CA native grasses – fine texture

Can be mowed occasionally (and high – 4-6”) for more lawn-like appearance – take some foot traffic

Shade or sun

Needs occasional summer water – best as Zone 2 or 2-3 for ‘green lawn’ appearance

Widely available as seed or plugs – easy to grow on many climates

http://geoimages.berkeley.edu/geoImages/BainCalif/CAL400/BUNGRASS.HTML

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Your personal lists will help you make a

choice that’s right for your garden

Evergreen – ‘swath of green’ Low maintenance Reminds me of being out in the

woods (which I like)

Requires too much water Doesn’t look great in the

shady areas of the yard

The good things The bad things

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Does it really have to be ‘all grass’?

Other options for shady areas: Yarrow (Achillea) Native strawberries

(Fragaria spp) – native to Central CA coast, local mountains

Benefits Interesting – ‘woodsy’ look Good habitat value Tough – and more water-

wise than grass Can be combined with

grass-like species for more interest

http://www.flickr.com/photos/spidra/2290393751/ © Project SOUND

Choices from the N. CA Coastal Prairie

tend to be green looking with some water

Coastal prairie conditions are sunny and mild, with fog and cool breezes.

Red fescue (Festuca rubra), a grass that expands by underground rhizomes

California Oatgrass (Danthonia californica), a plant that doesn't mind being stepped on

Pacific dune sedge (Carex pansa), a lush green groundcover.

A native lawn of Pacific dune sedge

looks lush with just monthly

watering (in N. CA)

http://lomaprieta.sierraclub.org/thelomaprietan.asp?q=2009030802

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Sedges (Carex species) can be a good evergreen alternative to grass

Relatively easy to establish & maintain

Evergreen – look ‘grass-like’ to most people (including your neighbors)

Can take a little more water – good for wet areas near neighbor’s lawn

http://blueplanetgardening.com/art-lawnsubs.html

Some can be mowed (for a more formal look) or left unmowed (for a more informal look)

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Which ‘lawn sedge’ is it?

There has been some confusion in the past

Carex pansa (north coast) Shorter, bent best for sandy soils ‘Lawn-like’ even when not

mowed (on slopes)

C. praegracilis (local native) More upright best for clays/ likes more

water

C. tumulticola (local native)

More mounded Slow-spreading; plant closely

for meadow or lawn Slightly more drought

tolerant

C. pansa is left, praegracilis is right

http://www.baynatives.com/plants/Carex-pansa/

C. pansa lawn, on the coast

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Green & easy-care – the Carex pansa solution

http://www.landscaperesource.com/articles/study-of-lawn-in-our-gardens-part-ii.htm

http://www.flickr.com/photos/11525626@N00/3881883242

http://www.flickr.com/photos/eastbaywilds/2673289141/

Carex pansa is the most lawn-like, but

it’s from N. CA and it does require

more water

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Mowed Carex praegracilis

http://www.flickr.com/photos/fross/3237730086/in/photostream/

Carex praegracilis can be

mowed for a ‘lawn-like’

appearance – or spaced

more widely as a pleasing

accent or shade plant

http://www.calown.com/nativegarden_plants.html

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http://www.satoridesigns.net/?p=19

http://www.flickr.com/photos/eastbaywilds/2673289141/

Carex species combine well

with other native grasses,

groundcovers and shrubs to

give and interesting a varied

appearance

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Grasses & sedges can soften modern

architecture

Deergrass

http://www.asla.org/2009awards/612.html

Fescues

Sedges

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Your personal lists will help you make a

choice that’s right for your garden

Evergreen – sort of Prevents erosion on slope Discourages people from

walking on it

Requires too much water – would like to be slightly more water-wise

Hard to mow – steep hillside

The good things The bad things

http://greenlandoceanblue.com/2011/01/03/say-you-got-some-snoo-on-your-lawn-larry-o%E2%80%99shea-in-the-tv-series-that%E2%80%99s-my-bush/

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Do I really need to mow? If not, the options

expand dramatically Many ‘lawn-like’ species

can be left un-mowed (‘ornamental grasses’)

Carex species Juncus species Fescue species Many local & other CA

Native bunchgrasses

Many other groundcover species Herbaceous species Even low-growing

woody species from N./Central CA coast [Manzanitas; Ceanothus]

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Grass-like natives as accents or background

http://www.flickr.com/photos/83213315@N00/498800058

http://www.thedigeratilife.com/blog/index.php/2008/06/04/save-money-and-conserve-water-with-these-7-ideas-for-your-yard/

http://www.cnps.org/cnps/grownative/tips/lawn_alternatives.php

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The no-lawn ‘lawn’

http://www.cnps.org/cnps/grownative/tips/lawn_alternatives.php

http://freshdirt.sunset.com/2009/03/another-front-l.html http://www.penick.net/digging/?p=497 © Project SOUND

What is really important to you?

http://cocreativegardendesign.com/56-2/

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Your personal lists will help you make a

choice that’s right for your garden

Changes with the seasons – green in winter/spring

Requires too much water Too boring – not enough going on Poor habitat value No sense of place

The good things The bad things

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The California Coastal Prairie

http://www.geog.ucsb.edu/~joel/g148_f09/lecture_notes/north_coast/north_coast.html

The Northern CA Coastal Prairie

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Where do I go to see what a S. CA

Coastal Prairie looks like?

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http://www.savetejonranch.org/all/index.html

http://www.coastalzone-ca.com/realworld.htm

The California Coastal

Prairie – clues from

other native grasslands

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http://philipsgardenblog.com/

Shares some grass

and other species with

N. Coastal Prairie

http://www.elkhornsloughctp.org/training/show_train_detail.php?T

RAIN_ID=CoyEJZ39

And with vernal pools

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The S. California Coastal Prairie

Grasses Bromus carinatus Koelera macrantha Melica imperfecta Nassella cernua Poa secunda Elymus glaucus And others

Forbes Annual wildflowers – most of the

ones we’ve discussed in previous classes

Other ‘weedy’ annuals Perennials (mostly small and incl.

bulbs & corms)

Shrubs http://www.caopenspace.org/pv1.html

http://faculty.jsd.claremont.edu/dthomson/studentres.htm

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http://interwork.sdsu.edu/fire/resources/san-diego-habitats.htm

Many aspects of S.

Coastal Prairie are

currently unknown

What is the natural succession of plant species? How long does it take?

How best to restore native prairies

How to combat weeds (note: native prairies don’t have natural mulch)

What species are best suited for home gardens? How should they be used?

And many more

© Project SOUND

Project SOUND will focus on Coastal

Prairie research the next several years

Collecting plant species not readily available – and propagating them

Research on restoration methods

Work on restoring a native prairie at CSUDH

Trying gardening methods focused on prairie species

Would you like to participate?

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One-sided Bluegrass – Poa secunda

http://www.baynatives.com/plants/Poa-secunda/

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This is more like what it would look like in

South Bay prairie

http://www.tarleton.edu/~range/Grasslands/Palouse%20Prairie/palouseprairie.htm

Bluebunch wheatgrass with scattered One-sided bluegrass

http://www.flickr.com/photos/raphaelmazor

/3400158978/

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Typical Bluegrass Fine-bladed, dark blue-

green perennial grass

Cool-season grass Starts growth in early spring

– one of the first grasses Blooms Feb-Aug – early

bloomer Matures, dies in mid-summer

Bunchgrass – but variable Sometimes (harsh climates)

just a thin, small tuft With more winter-spring

water, more developed tussock

Relatively short-lived

http://www.calflora.net/bloomingplants/onesidedbluegrass.html © Project SOUND

One-sided Bluegrass succeeds

In mixes with other, later-season grasses

In full sun to partial shade – fine under pine trees

On any soil texture – like a good loam but succeeds in shallow, rocky, sandy or clay soils

Any local pH is fine – tolerates moderately alkali and salty soils

Needs average winter/spring rain – then likes to dry out in summer. You could experiment with some summer water

http://www.nativegrasses.com/images/grasses/FHGR-FHG1.jpg

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Benefits and uses

Pretty, graceful and delicate – all the usual positive points for bluegrasses

Early to green up – often after fall rains in S. Bay

Will reseed on patches of bare ground once established

Can tolerate moderate spring flooding – would be fine for a vernal swale

Well-liked by birds (seeds and nesting site), ground squirrels and domestic animals (horses) even when dry

Tolerant of fire when dormant

Few (if any) insect, disease problems

http://www.laspilitas.com/butterfl_files/Needle_grass.jpeg

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Planting One-sided Bluegrass from seed

Plant fall/winter in S. Bay

May have low germination rates – highly variable depending on weather, site

Use 2-4 lbs seed/1000 sq. feet for lawn/meadow (more if broadcast)

Sow on well-prepared and firmed soil

Rake in or cover to ¼ to ½ inch (deeper for coarse soils)

Be sure to keep ground surface moist until seeds germinate (7-14 days); then every other day until established

Will grow quickly in warm temperatures http://ww1.clunet.edu/wf/chap/common/bjc-1397.htm

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California Brome – Bromus carinatus (var. maritimus)

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California Brome – locally native bunchgrass

Perennial (may be short-lived)

Cool season

Bunchgrass

Usually erect when young, more drooping as matures – but coastal forms are more low-lying (prostrate)

Leaves broad, green, robust

Stays green into summer, even with no added water

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Benefits and uses of CA Brome

http://pnwpest.org/weeds/id/California_brome--Bromus_carinatus--

m.s.jpg

Grows rapidly (typical brome) - a great choice to get native grass covering the ground quickly

Can serve as a quick-growing “nurse” grass to longer-lived grasses like Needlegrasses, Melic Grass - lives only a few years (3-5 years here)

Deep, spreading roots make great for erosion control – quick

Does fine on slopes

Great insect, butterfly and bird plant – if left to go to seed

Very hardy – used on roadsides and mine rehabilitation © Project SOUND

Blue Wildrye – Elymus glaucus

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June Grass - Koeleria macrantha

Patrick J. Alexander @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database © Project SOUND

http://www.cedarcreek.umn.edu/plants/newslides/koeleria480.jpg

Junegrass in nature: an accent rather than the main show

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Local Prairie grasses - lovely in gardens

However you choose to use

them, you’re increasing the

habitat value of your garden

© Project SOUND

Would you like to help recreate native

prairie in your yard?

Attend special classes featuring the S. Coastal Prairie/ shrubland

Grow seed - seed available for home propagation

Experiment with installation methods - grass available for demonstration areas in your yard

Grow the grasses/annuals as part of the One Pot Program

Experiment with different uses of the native species on your garden – there are many possibilities

http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/calif/msg0617091222429.

html

E-mail Connie if you’re interested

© Project SOUND

Bringing Back the Natives – One Pot at a Time

Your commitment:

Materials Pot: 12-16 inches in diameter;

12-16 inches deep Potting soil: Gardener’s Soil

Time Plant seeds; care for plants After seeds are ripe/dry:

Scatter in your garden Collect and share with others

Photos & feedback Provide us photos and (brief)

written feedback about your successes and failures

© Project SOUND

If you’d like to grow more native grasses

from seed….

You can help us by experimenting with the following in your own yard:

Raising native grass plugs/plants from seed

Direct seeding experiments

Creating a ‘One Plot’ area in your garden to grow native grasses for seed

We’ll help you design a program that works for you

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We hope you’re inspired to explore the

options for your own ‘lawn’