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SEASON 1 - EPISODE 4 COMPANION • PLACEMAT • UTENSIL HOLDER • NAPKIN CORNER • CANDLE WRAP

CREATE A BEAUTIFUL TABLE SETTING WITH THE THESE 4 WORKSHOP PROJECTS!

Learning new embroidery techniques has never been easier!

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Placemat

Napkin Corner

Utensil HolderCandle Wrap

(All thread is Floriani Polyester)

Workshop Tutorial

PLACEMAT Materials List - Hoop Size: 6” x 6”

• 6 pieces of No Show Mesh Stabilizer• Cut six pieces of base fabric 7” x 7”• Cut six pieces of batting 7” x 7”• Cut one piece of backing fabric approximately 20.5” x 15” • Cut one piece of batting approximately 18” x 12.5”

To start, hoop one layer of No Show Mesh stabilizer by itself. Stitch step one of the design. This is the squaring stitch.

Next, place your piece of batting over top of these stitches. Use tape to hold the batting in place. Stitch Step 2 of the design, this is the tacking stitch.

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Design - wstc1c Stitches - 2654Size - 5.8” wide - 5.8” high






1. Squaring Stitch - place batting after this step2. Batting Tacking Stitch - place base fabric after this step3. Tacking Stitch - match fabric 4. Stippling - match fabric5. Toile stitches - any color- blocks 1 and 2 do not have any toile stitches.

On the design cd there are 4 sizes of each block included. Size A measures 7.8” x 7.8”. Size B measures 6.8” x 6.8” and size D measures 4.8” x 4.8”. The color steps are the same for each size and are compatible with all of our Mix and Match Quilting collections.

Steps & Colors

NOTE: Use size C (6” blocks) in each design to make this project!

Remove the finished block from the hoop and place it on your cutting table. Line the ruler up along the tacking stitches. Use your rotary cutter and trim your block to a 1/2” seam allowance.

Stitch all of the blocks for the placemat the same way. Once you have stitched all of the blocks lay them out on a table to complete your arrangement. Now we need to stitch the blocks together.

We will start with the first 2 blocks. Place the 2 blocks, right sides together, so that the squaring lines around each block are lined up. You can pin the blocks together at this point. Use a straight stitch on your sewing machine to stitch the blocks together. Stitch just slightly inside the squaring line. Continue the same process for the next block in the strip.

You will continue along in this manner and stitch the second together. After you are finished stitching, press open the seam allowances.

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Once the step is complete, remove the hoop from the machine and place it on a flat surface. Using a pair of applique scissors, trim away the excess batting as close as possible to the tacking stitch.

Place your piece of fabric, right side up, so it covers and overlaps the placement stitch by 1/2”, this is the seam allowance.

Stitch the next step of the design. This is the tacking stitch that secures the fabric to the stabilizer. Use a thread color that matches your fabric.

Finishing stitching the design. Use a thread color that matches your fabric for the stipple step and a contrasting thread color for the design. Once the block is finished it will look something like this.

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S1: E4 COMPANION • ANITAGOODESIGNONLINE.COM

Once the rows are finished you will stitch the rows together in the same way. The placemat should look like once it is put together.

Cut a piece of batting the same size as the placemat. Cut your backing fabric so that it extends 1 1/4” beyond the placemat on all sides. This will be the backing and binding for the placemat. Place your backing fabric on your cutting table face down. Then place your batting and placemat on top facing up. Use pins to hold all three layers together.

Using a ruler or Mitred-Binding Tool, draw a 45 degree diagonal line along each corner. The line should just touch the corner point.

Fold the corner back on itself, right sides together.Place a pin parallel to the edge along the crease line. Stitch along this line, stopping once you reach the pin (the crease line).

Using monofilament or matching thread, stitch in the ditch between each block to hold the layers together.

Use an iron to fold and press the backing edge towards the font, matching the raw edges. This will create a crease for the binding.

Trim to 1/4” and clip the corner. Repeat these steps for the remaining 3 corners.

Using your finger or a point turner, press your corner out. Notice that the fold we originally pressed turns under and covers the raw edge.

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Pin the folded edge under, making sure the binding covers your squaring stitches. Pin all the way around.

The last step is to stitch the binding down using a walking foot and matching thread.

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Your finished placemat should look like this! Enjoy!

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Workshop Tutorial

UTENSILHOLDER

Materials List Hoop Size:6” x 10”• 3 pieces of No Show Mesh Stabilizer• Cut two 6” x 12” pieces; one for the back panel and one for the front panel• Cut one 6” x 12” piece for the pocket• Cut one 6” x 12” piece of batting for inside panel• Cut one 5.5” x 5.5” of batting for pocket

Design – UHFRT1 Stitches – 11854Size – 4.8” wide – 5.0” high

Steps & Colors 1. Squaring stitch – place batting after this step2. Batting tacking stitch – trim batting after this step3. Applique tacking stitch – base fabric4. White – scroll design5. Blue – satin stitch

Design – UHBCK4Stitches – 6200Size – 4.8” wide – 9.8” high

Steps & Colors 1. Squaring stitch – place base fabric after this step2. Applique tacking stitch – base fabric3. White – quilting stitches

Design – UHBCK3Stitches – 7737Size – 5.5” wide – 9.8” high

Steps & Colors1. Squaring stitch – place batting after this step2. Batting tacking stitch – trim batting after this step3. Applique tacking stitch – base fabric4. White – quilting stitches5. Pocket tacking stitches – match fabric6. Back tacing stitches – match fabric

Note: Sample shown in another colorway.

Start with design UHFRT1. Hoop a piece of No Show Mesh Stabilizer. Stitch Step 1 of the design, this is the placement stitch.

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Fold the pocket piece in half, wrong sides together. There will be an additional 1/4” of fabric above the satin stitches. Set the pocket aside.

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Finish stitching the design. The last two steps will add details to the pocket.

Next, place your piece of batting over top of these stitches. Make sure to completely cover these stitches and use tape to hold the batting in place. Stitch Step 2 of the design.

Trim any excess batting away from the outside of this tacking stitch.

Step 2 is the tacking stitch for the batting. It is slightly inside the placement stitch to allow for trimming.

Stitch step 3, this will tack the fabric to the stabilizer and hold everything in place.

Place the piece of pocket fabric (6” x 12”), right side up, so that the edges overlap 1/2” along the sides and bottom and the excess fabric (about 6”) is to the top. Use tape to hold the fabric in place.

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Remove the pocket from the hoop and trim the excess stabilizer away.v

The next step will tack the fabric in place. The final step will add the quilting stitches to the fabric. Remove from the hoop and trim 1/2” from the tacking stitch. Set the back panel aside.

Finally open design UHBCK3 and hoop a piece of No Show Mesh Stabilizer. Stitch Step 1 of the design, this is the placement stitch.

Place one piece of base fabric 6” x 12”over the placement stitch. The fabric will be right side facing up. Use tape to hold the fabric in place.

Next, place your piece of batting over top of these stitches. Use tape to hold the batting in place. Stitch Step 2 of the design, this is the tacking stitch.

Trim any excess batting away from the outside of this tacking stitch.

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Place one piece of base fabric 6” x 12”over the placement stitch. The fabric will be right side facing up. Use tape to hold the fabric in place.

Stitch step 3, this will tack the fabric to the stabilizer and hold everything in place. Stitch step 4, this will add the quilting stitches.

Open the next design UHBCK4. Hoop a piece of No Show Mesh Stabilizer. Stitch Step 1 of the design, this is the placement stitch.

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Next, place the folded pocket piece, right side facing DOWN, so the fold lines align with the guide stitches along the side.

Stitch step 5, this will tack the pocket in place.

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Place the back piece, right side facing down, aligning the outside tacking stitches. Use tape to hold in place.

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The final step will secure all 3 layers together and leave a gap along the side. This is to turn the holder right side out later.

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Use a hand sewing needle to close the gap in the side. Turn the pocket right side out and you are finished. Place silverware in the holder and enjoy!

Remove the utensil holder from the hoop and trim 1/4” all the way around. Clip the corner to reduce bulk.

Turn the holder right side out through the gap in the side. The pocket will still be inside out.

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Workshop Tutorial

Materials List -All you need to complete this project is a piece of tearaway stabilizer, tape and a napkin. You can create this beautiful napkin using a store bought napkin or you can create your own napkin from a piece of cotton or linen. If you are buying a napkin look for one that is about 20” square with a simple hem. The design included in this workshop comes in 2 sizes, 5.75” x 5.75” and 4.75” x 4.75”.

NAPKIN CORNER

Hoop the stabilizer by itself and stitch step 1 of the design. This is the corner stitch that you will use to align your napkin.

Place the napkin down so that the edges of the napkin line up with the corner stitch.

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Use two large pieces of tape to secure the napkin to the stabilizer.

Stitch the nest step of the design. This is the basting stitch. We recommend matching the thread color to your fabric. After the basting stitch is in place remove the tape.

Stitch the remainder of the design. You should have an even border around the outside edge.

Use a seam ripper to remove the basting stitch.

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Remove the stabilizer from the back. Your finished.

napco1astitches -6213Size -5.75” wide x 5.75 high

napco1bstitches -4965Size -4.75” wide x 4.75” high

All thread is Floriani Polyester

Steps & Colors1. corner stitch - match fabric2. basting stitch - match fabric 3. 560 - scrolls

Place the fabric, right side up, over the placement stitch. Make sure the fabric completely covers the placement line. You can use pieces of painters tape to secure the fabric to the stabilizer if preferred.

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Workshop Tutorial

CANDLEWRAP

Materials List Hoop Size:5” x 7”

• Water Soluble Stabilizer - to fit hoop• Cut one 8” x 6” base fabric• ½” ribbon• 3” diameter candle

Design – lcndl2Stitches – 16952Size – 6.1” wide – 4.2” high

Steps & Colors1. Applique placement stitch – place base fabric after this step2. Applique tacking stitch - base fabric3. Pink – flowers4. Yellow – flower center & hearts5. Blue – accent6. White – satin stitch outline (match fabric)

Note: This Sample shown in another colorway.

To start, hoop a piece of water soluble stabilizer. Stitch the first step of the design. This is the placement stitch that you will use to place your piece of fabric.

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Stitch the next step of the design. This is the taking stitch and will secure the fabric to the stabilizer. We recommend matching the thread color to your fabric. After the tacking stitch is in place remove the tape.

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Stitch the last step. This will finish the raw edges and make the cutwork area to weave the ribbon through.

Remove everything from the hoop and all of the stabilizer from around the edges and the back of the design.

Remove the hoop from the machine and place on a flat surface. Carefully cut away the excess fabric without cutting through the stabilizer. Cut as close as possible to the tacking stitches without cutting through the stitches.

Rinse the design under warm water to remove most of the water soluble stabilizer. The stabilizer left in the fabric will act like a starch and keep the finished project stiff. Leave the wrap a little damp to finish the project.

Cut a piece of ribbon long enough to wrap around the candle with excess to tie a bow. Weave the ribbon through the cutwork section of the candle wrap.

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Place the wrap around the candle and tie the ribbon with a bow.

The finished candle wrap should look like this! Enjoy!

Stitch the rest of the design. Stop just before the last step. Your wrap should look like this.

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learning new embroidery techniques has never been easier...

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