leela summer 2017 · 2017-05-12 · female characters came from the ambalavasi nambiar caste...

M A G A Z I N E

Decoded ParadoxDecoded Paradox

M A G A Z I N E

Elevate the elegance of your abode.Luxury desirables handcrafted and handpicked.

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Vivek NairChairman & Managing Director,The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts

Summer holidays are just around the corner, so this is great time to

plan a family vacation. The Leela Group’s portfolio boasts stunning

resorts where you can connect with nature and escape the work

stress. The Leela Kovalam is a beachside hotel, with a panoramic view of

the Arabian Sea. The Leela Palace Udaipur adorns Lake Pichola, with an

amazing view of the Aravalli Hills. The Leela Goa is 75 acres of landscaped

gardens, abutted by the Arabian Sea on one side and River Sal on the other.

The Leela hotels have put together various experiential holiday

packages for the season; the most ideal option for family vacations is

‘The Leela Moments’, which can be customised to explore both the best

of the hotel as well as that of the destination.

Another strength of Brand Leela is its world-class restaurants,

the most recent case in point being The Elitaire Lounge at The Leela

Ambience Gurugram. The new ‘Epic Global Cuisine’ menu at the

restaurant is an eight-course extravaganza ingeniously combing

the feast is bound to please even the most fastidious palate. Find more

about the menu in ‘Launchpad’.

JJ Valaya; the story sheds light on his creative versatility, including his

photography talent. Other highlights include an experiential piece on

The Leela Goa’s nature walk, and a business story that looks at the major

Indian tea startups and their marketing and positioning strategies.

Last season, The Leela Group has added a slew of accolades to

anniversary this year, has been voted as ‘The Best Hotel in India’ by

the readers of the acclaimed Gallivanter’s Guide, which is a privately

published publication targeting the high-end traveller. Not to be

outdone, The Leela Palace Udaipur has been voted the number one

hotel in India, and among the top 25 in the world, in TripAdvisor’s 2017

Travellers’ Choice awards.

Enjoy the read.

The new ‘Epic Global Cuisine’ menu at

The Elitaire Lounge is an eight-course

extravaganza combing

local ingredients

THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 8 | SUMMER 2017

CHAIRMAN’S MESSAGE

CONTENTS

32Profile

Fashion design, interiors,

photography — we talk to the

versatile JJ Valaya

24Wheels

The coolest recent and

soon-to-be-launched

cars

16Luxe Effect

Stunning watches, and

summer style accessories

for men

20Discover IndiaKoodiyattam, an art form

combining dance and drama, has

survived for more than 2000 years

60Travel

The many charms

of Salzburg

66Business

Indian tea startups and their

business strategies

72The Leela Experiences

Taking a nature walk at

The Leela Goa

54Books

‘Dining with the Nawabs’

uncovers secret food recipes

40Style

A selection of some of the best

brands for made-to-measure and

bespoke shoes for men

48Explorations

The great comedian comes alive

at the Charlie Chaplin Museum

in Switzerland

44Drinks

Bizarre drinks and

highly creative bar concepts

from across the world

32

CONTENTST H E L E E L A M A G A Z I N E — S U M M E R 2 0 1 7


COVER

table book ‘Decoded Paradox’, which features photographs shot by him. The book showcases beautifully styled black and white images juxtaposing subjects dressed as Mughal and Rajput royalty against modern-day New Delhi

Photograph Courtesy JJ Valaya

“This Magazine is published by Hotel Leela Ventures Limited (“Leela”) and produced by Mediascope Publicitas (India) Pvt. Ltd., on behalf of and under agreement with Leela. Opinions expressed herein are of the authors

about editorial matters, reproduction of articles and advertising should be addressed to The Leela Magazine,

Email: [email protected] in this publication may not be reproduced, whether in part or in whole, without the consent of the publisher. Neither Leela nor MSP assumes any responsibility or endorses any claim made by the advertisers herein.”

This magazine is printed on environment-friendly, wood-free paper.

—

C O N T E N T S

BACK OF THE BOOK

THE LEELAEDITOR-IN-CHIEF — Lakshmi NairEDITORIAL & PRODUCTION DIRECTOR — Shobha Patel PRODUCTION — Prakash Bachche

PUBLICITAS PUBLISHINGEDITORIALEDITOR-IN-CHIEF — Deepali Nandwani EDITOR — Jaideep DaveWRITER — Nisha ShroffCLIENT SERVICE MANAGER — Reshma Malvankar

ARTCREATIVE DIRECTOR — Muhammad Jaan FaruquiART DIRECTOR — Rane Sanjay VamanGRAPHIC DESIGNER — Shivaji B. GaikwadIMAGE EDITOR — Mrunali Gujarathi PRODUCTION MANAGER — Elidio Fernandes

ADVERTISING SALESMUMBAI (022- 61377400) Vice President — Monica ChopraKatty Gia, Rashmi Kapoor DELHI (011-23730873/66599300) Sr. General Manager (North) — Asha AugustineSenior Manager - Nikhil MehrotraBANGALORE (09886041356) — Nagesh RaoHYDERABAD (08978866599) — Sheetal Petkar KERALA (09414069321) — Sanjai Krishnan

AD SALES - INTERNATIONALHONG KONG (+852-2516 1003) — Winky Wong MALAYSIA (+60-3-7729 6923) — Shallie Cheng SINGAPORE (+65 6735 8681) — Joui Ong DUBAI (+9714 3913360) — Sunil Kanchan

MARKETINGMANAGER MARKETING SERVICES — Salim B.

FINANCE & ACCOUNTSSR. MANAGER - ACCOUNTS & ADMIN.— Girish SharmaACCOUNTS EXECUTIVE — Ashwin MakwanaCREDIT CONTROLLER — Girish Joshi

CORPORATECEO & MANAGING DIRECTOR — Marzban Patel EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR — Anita Patel VICE PRESIDENT-FINANCE — Sunando Roy DIRECTOR — Indu Joshi

CONNECT WITH US ON

80 Launchpad

81 Snapshot

82 Jet Set Go

83 Chef’s Corner

84 Events

85 Accolades

86 Guest Speak

87 Social Index

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Masters of time Our picks of the season’s most interesting watches.

BREGUETThis 37mm rose gold Tradition

engraving on the central barrel.

center subdial, in natural white

the time. The case is made of

cut diamonds, and comes on

a white leather strap, which

attaches to the case via welded

resistant up to 30m.

AUDEMARS PIGUET Audemars Piguet is celebrating

wristwatch with a new series.

All the seven models in the

dial design with several new

counters of increased size that

expand at 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock,

additional luminescent coating

transfers. The steel versions of

choice of “Grande Tapisserie”

dials in black, silver or blue, and

bracelets.

light of the sun and the moon.

at the appointed hour, thanks

its inception, and which can

be moved around the dial. In

addition to a rose gold version,

it is also available in white gold.

automatic movement is at the

heart of the watch.

unveiled a new variation of

wristwatch with a power

elegant watch comes with

measuring 45.9mm in

diameter and 15.9mm in

thickness. The watch in 18K

oversized date aperture at

10. There are going to be

limited edition series.

bracelets.

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Summer style

for menRaise your cool quotient with

these four accessories.

MICHAEL KORSA stylish weekend bag is a must-

have for avid travellers. Michael

Kors’ Bryant Leather Backpack,

crafted from pebbled leather,

combines practicality with coolth.

BOMBAY PERFUMERYBombay Perfumery is a boutique

brand of fragrances using a

combination of Indian and exotic

foreign ingredients. With the base

notes of vetiver, clary sage and

musk, Les Cayes (named after a

Haitian town) is a men’s perfume

that also has dash of lemon.

ARMANIFew do sneakers better than Armani,

and this multicoloured pair is made

from 100 per cent calf skin leather.

and this multicoloured pair is made

from 100 per cent calf skin leather.

GUCCIStand out from the crowd with

Gucci’s Aviator Acetate sunglasses.

The frame comes in two colours, dark

tortoiseshell and black.


LUXE EFFECT

Koodiyattam or Kutiyattam is one of the oldest living theatre

traditions in the world, stretching back 20 centuries. It was

traditionally performed in Hindu temples in the southern

state of Kerala, and is based on the early Sanskrit plays,

making it the only surviving remnant of ancient Sanskrit

theatre. The UNESCO has declared Koodiyattam as a “masterpiece of the

oral and intangible heritage of humanity”.

The word ‘Koodiyattam’ means “combined acting”; a Koodiyattam

performance blends dance and drama. The whole drama, enacted as a

the kuttambalam: a theatre hall built specially for these performances in

some of the important temples of Kerala. These kuttambalams were built

at a convenient distance from the main shrine, with highly ornamental

roofs and pillars. Male actors came from the Chakyar community, while

female characters came from the Ambalavasi Nambiar caste (called

Nangyarammas).

Plays of almost all the major Sanskrit playwrights, including Bhasa,

Saktibhadra, Harsha, Bodhayana, are a part of the Koodiyattam repertoire.

“The way Sanskrit drama is dealt with in Koodiyattam is very original and

A unique aspect of Koodiyattam is that a complete play is never

presentation of the play can run into several days, as a lot of time is spent

on detailing the past history of the important characters. The focus is less

Koodiyattam is often described as a theatre of the actor, wherein he/

The dramatisation and communication centers on highly evocative facial

The costumes are a blend of bright colours like black, white and red,

The flame ofSanskrit theatreKoodiyattam is a 2000-year-old art form that combines dance and drama. A blend of

the audience into a world that is as much a creation of the actors as it is of the playwright.

By Akhila Ranganna

Koodiyattam guru and performer G Venu (left) in a

reenactment of a Kalidasa play

The flame ofSanskrit theatre

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a compatriot of the hero, the narrator, commentator and often the comic

element, has special make-up, highlighting his comic features. The chief

instrument used as a musical accompaniment is the Mizhavu, a big round

jar made of either clay or copper, with a leather-covered narrow mouth,

and is played with both hands.

fair amount of space on stage from ancient times,”

says Kapila. “They have their own solo storytelling

performance called Nangiar Koothu. Traditionally

the actress would elaborately enact episodes

from Sreekrishnacharitam (the story of Krishna’s

life) through several nights.” One of the most

trained by several legendary artists, was often

described as someone who went beyond her

conventional training and worked on reinterpreting

her art form.

Koodiyattam performer to perform the art outside the temple premises.

form. Chakyar instutionalised the performance of Koodiyatam through the

Koodiyattam outside temple premises.

The guru-shishya (master-disciple) paramapara is very much alive in

the world of Koodiyattam. Kapila started training when she was seven,

under the legendary Guru Ammannnur Madhava Chakyar, and even some

spent some years with Usha Nangiar, another artist who commands

tremendous respect in Kerala theatre.

Indeed, training usually starts at a very young

with many other traditional Indian arts. “In the

body and voice by learning to stand in the basic

plays for prolonged periods of time,” says Kapila.

“This is also accompanied by eye training and

lessons in Sanskrit language. After learning an

hour-and-a-half-long invocatory choreography

called ‘Nityakriya’, and practising it for several

months or years, the child then has her/his debut

performance, ‘Arangettam’. Then the child becomes a part of the troupe

in performances by helping backstage and playing small roles, and slowly

always says that our art is like a brass vessel that must continuously be

polished, so, in that sense, training is a lifelong process for a practitioner,”

says Kapila.

Kapila Venu is one of the most renowned contemporary exponents of Koodiyattam

The chief instrument used as a musical

accompaniment is the Mizhavu, a big round jar made of either clay or copper, with a leather-covered narrow mouth,

and which is played with both hands

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PORSCHE CAYMAN 718

MASERATI LEVANTE

New and upcoming

By Meraj Shah

THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 24 | SUMMER 2017 SUMMER 2017 | 25 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE

WHEELS

TOYOTA PRIUS


LEXUS RX 450H


TESLA SERIES 3


I love India! And I am a showman. It’s the very basis of all the

creative work that I do,” states JJ Valaya, the man who has made

a veritable design empire on the ethos of ‘royal nomad’, drawing

multicultural inspirations from around the world and infusing them

with elements of the country. His House of Valaya, which will be

celebrating 25 years this year, is considered as the epitome of Indian

luxury and extravagance. Headquartered

in Delhi, its clients think nothing

appointment with him and a piece of his

ornate creations. He was the choice of

weddingwear for cricket sensation Yuvraj

Singh and his actress-bride, Hazel Keech,

last year, and now has collaborations

across the board, from a bestselling

fashion jewellery line with Swarovski to

award-winning ‘Gulistan’ tiles with the

luxury lifestyle major FCML.

Valaya has gone from fashion to

home design, wedding décor and even

photography, building on his artistic

strengths and growing his businesses

along the way. And yet, for this Jodhpur-

born creative genius, who was born

Jagsharanjit Singh Ahluwalia, everything

began with the regimental life of an

“No civilian will ever understand

what it is like growing up as an army

kid,” says the amiable designer, seated

at an expansive table in his showroom

at The Gallery on MG. It’s a mild winter

morning, and there are already a couple

of families here to select bridal wear for

weddings slated later in the year. “The

army life teaches you a lot of discipline.

It also makes you resilient, because

every three years you have to pack up

and go to a new city, make new friends,

let go of old ones, get into a new school,

adapt to it all over again, only to leave again in three years. So it gives

you such an interesting exposure. Take the case of the late Captain CP

Krishnan Nair, the founder of The Leela Hotels. It seems like those from

the fauji background seem to do pretty well,” he smiles.

While his father, uncles and two older brothers were all committed

to the army life, Valaya believes his mother’s gift for embroideries and

The ace Indian couturier has

also ably straddled the worlds

of interiors, photography and

gears up to celebrate its silver

jubilee this year, Aekta Kapoor

about his journey from being

a chartered accountant to

becoming a creative maestro.

The Many Hats of

JJ Valaya

‘‘

Photographs courtesy JJ Valaya

| 32 | | 33 |

PROFILE

kidswear may have something “to do with the DNA for embroideries”

in her youngest son. “My mom was always teaching army jawans’ wives

cross-stitch and smocking, and at the same time used to design her own

kidswear, which was phenomenal. I don’t think anyone does that kind of

kidswear till date,” he reminisces of his late mother’s talent. The young

Jagsharanjit, however, was sure he did not want to join the army or work

under anyone else. “I had too many ideas of my own.” He graduated

in commerce and began pursuing

chartered accountancy. “But in 1987, I

decided I didn’t want to do it anymore,”

he says, and instead joined the newly

launched National Institute of Fashion

Technology (NIFT), in Delhi, graduating

was a jacket for a fellow student. I got

the material, took her measurements,

and made it myself,” he recalls. “I can’t

even begin to tell you how I felt when

she paid me Rs 250 for it. I felt like lord

of the world, I was the man, I could

make money,” he beams. Even today,

Valaya says, the jacket continues to be

the only silhouette that excites him:

“Our clothes have always been more

structured and less draped.”

Luckily for Valaya, his father had

taken an early retirement from the

army and was accustomed to civilian

life by then, “which he realised wasn’t

all that bad,” and so the young fashion

graduate did not face much opposition

when he announced that he would

set up his own line of menswear.

One of his brothers, TJ Singh, even

left his own post in the army to help

Valaya establish his business in 1992,

after seeing the potential in Valaya’s

graduation collection.

The fashion industry in those

days was still in its nascent stages,

dominated by the likes of the late

Rohit Khosla and a handful of others,

but Valaya soon discovered his own

language and raison d’etre. “I knew

that if I have to build something of

credibility, it would take time,” he says of his early years. In 1996, he set

farmhouse in Chhattarpur, on the suburbs of Delhi, en route to Gurgaon,

which was barely a city then, let alone a designer shopping destination.

“I still remember, when we opened, everyone said, ‘This is stunning but

it’s way ahead of its time. It’s a white elephant.’ But we proved everyone

wrong. We were there for 15 years,” he says.

| 34 | | 35 |

What was important to him then (as it’s now) was the idea of

creating an ambience for luxury. “I don’t believe I am in the business of

selling clothes, I think it’s more to do with people relating to the aura of

factor is evident, of course; it is the Valaya signature. “Nomad, because

we are constantly travelling for inspiration. Whether it’s Spain, Morocco

or Russia,” he says. His latest collection is, in fact, called ‘The Ranas of

the nomads from the interiors of Gujarat. “The royal nomad in me is never

going to settle down,” says the father of two girls.

Valaya began making tapestries way back in 1996, the likes of

Valaya Home line, including furniture, decorative pieces and wall art, was

launched in December 2014. He insists he’s not reinventing the wheel;

every topnotch designer around the world, from Ralph Lauren and Fendi

to Versace and Armani, started from fashion and ventured into the home

or ‘casa’ space eventually. “Design cannot know boundaries. If you have

a style, a signature, which people associate with you, it can then touch

anything and everything,” he says.

photography. An avid lensman, his works have been put up at exhibitions

a stunning book of black-and-white photographs, published in 2011. The

book features beautifully styled images juxtaposing subjects dressed

| 36 |

as Mughal and Rajput royals against modern-day

New Delhi.

He travels extensively to fuel his love for

photography, and has started a blog jjaleph.com,

where he publishes “interesting insights into the

world of aesthetics that excites me, turns me on,”

whether it’s a building, a person, a plant or a sky.

“Design is a spiritual process. Good design always

comes from the spirit, not the mind. Think of the

classic Chanel tweed jacket or the Eames chair,

things that have endured. I think that’s the ultimate goal for anyone from

the design profession,” he says.

If there’s one classic from the Valaya stable, it’s the Alika jacket.

Introduced a few years ago, it is Valaya’s signature piece that is reinvented

to be paired with any sort of lower clothing, from trousers to lehengas.

“We wanted to introduce one silhouette that would withstand the test of

time, and the Alika jacket has,” says Valaya, adding that he will showcase

a surprising new version of it at a massive fashion show this year to

celebrate 25 years of his label.

As a businessman, Valaya strongly believes it is very important to

be market-savvy. “The fact that we have been around

says wryly. At the same time, he says, “I’m a terrible

salesman. I cannot stand in front of a customer and

forcibly sell something that isn’t working. If the

ethics are wrong, sooner or later, it catches up.”

He narrates an incident when he refused to create

that I hate; it’s a European silhouette not designed

cheating himself. “The day you start lying to yourself is the day it all starts

to go wrong. You need to look inward. How are you evolving? How are

you taking yourself to the next level? If you don’t feel it yourself, your

customer is certainly not going to feel it,” he says.

The ponytailed designer, who will turn 50 this year, says his creative

energy is much higher now than it was when he was a 22-year-old NIFT

graduate, and every day is full of exciting lessons. “The day you stop getting

excited, the story is over anyway,” he says, adding that no matter what he

does, his label will always be about the glory of India. “All I want to do is

celebrate India and multiculturalism,” says the fashion icon. “Wherever

there is history, culture and love for craft, that’s where I belong.”

| 38 |

The Shoes Maketh The Man

As it is with suits, so it is with shoes: made-to-measure and bespoke beat pret-a-porter.

services. Nolan Lewis

Fcustomised or bespoke pair. Besides, the style-conscious

his colleague or boss wearing a generic model. Shoes are

and personality.

JOHN LOBB

catering to the English aristocracy. The company opened its second atelier

major cities across the U.S., Europe, the Middle East and Asia.

Northampton, England, created through cobbling protocol spread over

through a monogramming service. The customised shoes typically ship

`90,000 onwards

TOD’S

was made to be worn on all occasions.

meticulously hand-cutting the patterned

hide. Some samples can take years

John Lobb’s ‘By Request’ service has an archive of over 100 designs

Tod’s Gommino is one of the brand’s most iconic models


STYLE

ACHILLES’ HEEL

to individualised services when it comes

many domestic brands have capitalised

are very particular about shape and

them the chance to design their own

several tanneries, the materials at your

disposal are napa, suede, patent leather,

nubuck, mild leather, cordovan and a

velvet. For the new-age compassionate

vegan, the sensitive brand also has a

on the intricacies involved, making the

shoes could take anywhere between

two to eight weeks and an additional

`35,000 onwards

ANDRES SENDRA

just recently, in April.

dark green the most.

Price on request

selecting their unique version.

`28,000 onwards

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

embroidered by artisans in Chennai.

initials, a mehndi-inspired design, personal tattoos, insignias, uniquely

designed graphics by Louboutin, or just an elephant or a horse shoe

months to make, but considering they are Louboutins, they are certainly

worth the long wait.

Price on request

From napa to velvet, Achilles’

It takes about 200 steps and 45 days to create a pair of custom Andres Sendra shoes

Louboutin’s Wedding Suite, in Mumbai

Christian Louboutin’s ‘Tattoos to Measure’ service enables you to sport your favourite tattoo on your shoes


Quirky mixes

By Nikhil Merchant

DRINKS THAT NEED YOU TO BE ALREADY DRUNK

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and bars of the worldQuirky mixes A

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South Korea, Hong Kong and Canada

A take on tequila sour, the Sour-Tiesel

Giger Bar in Château St. Germain, in Switzerland, has

Giger Bar in Château St. Germain, in Switzerland, has

CREATIVE BAR CONCEPTS

Nikhil Merchant is a restaurateur and a food writer who shuttles between

myriad moods of life.

SUMMER 2017 | 47 | THE LEELA MAGAZINETHE LEELA MAGAZINE | 46 | SUMMER 2017

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Fourty years after his death, Charlie Chaplin is still delighting

audiences, thanks to the new Chaplin’s World Museum, in his

old home in Corsier-sur-Vevey, in Switzerland, overlooking

Lake Geneva. Sir Charles lived amid the Lavaux vineyards in the

three-storied 19-room Manoir de Ban, on the Swiss Riviera, from 1952 to

his death on Christmas Day, in 1977. He wrote the screenplays for A King

of New York and The Countess of Hong Kong as well as his autobiography

(1964) in this neo-classical mansion, built originally in 1840.

In the autobiography, Chaplin remembers, “We were a little awed

at the pretentiousness of the place and wondered whether it would be

commensurate with our income.”

The 150-acre “eco-friendly engineered” complex features

“successive multi-media experiences”, “ambiophonic acoustics”,

“immersive décor” and displays previously unseen private photographs,

letters, manuscripts, and other memorabilia. His writing desk is displayed

as well as some of the Manoir’s original Louis XIV furniture.

The museum opened its doors in April 2016, with 24 members of

the Chaplin family attending the launch. Daughter Victoria says, “The

museum will give life again to our parents’ home.”

Says Jean-Pierre Pigeon, General Director at Chaplin’s World, “The

most inspiring exhibit remains for me Charlie’s Steinway piano. It is

fabulous to sit next to it and to almost sense the creative spirit of an

outstanding and brilliant composer.”

Adds Montreal-born Yves Durand, the museographer and developer

only humour and humanity as weapons.”

Durand has worked on multimedia projects in the US, Portugal,

France, Belgium, Greece, Switzerland and China. He is the brain behind the

The museum traces Chaplin’s extraordinary rags to riches career. He

was born in the Victorian boot-making district of Walworth, south London

in 1889, the son of a vaudevillian and a soubrette (operatic soprano), an

Irish cobbler’s daughter.

His childhood, he wrote in My Autobiography, was “in continual

The museum chronicles his jobs as a doctor’s dogsbody, pageboy,

Switzerland’s latest attraction,

in the city of Vevy, is the home of

‘The Great Dictator’ and

‘The Tramp’, now turned into a

museum. Chaplin’s World, which

opened in 2016, narrates the

extraordinary rags to riches

story of the great entertainer

and also showcases his unseen

paraphernalia, from private

photographs to manuscripts. British

writer Kevin Pilley tells us more.

Chaplin comes alive

The studio at the museum named ‘Quiet please! Action!’


EXPLORATIONS

shoeboxes and grape packing straw.

It tells of his father’s alcoholism and early death (his daily diet was

six raw eggs in port wine), homes next to graveyards, abattoirs and pickle

factories, the homes for destitute children and his syphilitic mother

eventually being sent to a lunatic asylum.

It follows his formative years; clog dancing with the Eight

Lancashire Lads (a trouple of dancers) and the 21-month tour of the

US with Fred Karno, the father of slapstick. The museum reveals how

he formulated his creative philosophy, summed up by “Nothing is

permanent, not even troubles”.

Chaplin became a ruthless perfectionist creating “laughter which

(From top) The Manoir de Ban was Chaplin’s home for 25 years, from 1952 until his death in 1977; andChaplin’s World Boutique, which was originally Chaplin’s old Bentley’s garage, is now the museum’s gift shop

The studio at the museum named

‘Filmmaking Secrets’

of the Manoir, where visitors can see Chaplin family’s pictures

The studio called ‘The Barbershop’,

Great Dictator are recreated

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does not pretend to cure but only to console”. Being a clown, he believed,

placed him far higher in life than any politician. He met everyone from

Einstein to Gandhi.

Various rooms in the museum are dedicated to his Keystone

period (1914-17), the debut of his Tramp persona in Kid Auto Races

At Venice and the formation of United Artists (1919). By 1926, he was

married three teenage actresses and the death of his three-day-old son,

Norman, inspired the pathos of The Kid (1921), which was shown in over

50 countries.

Chaplin built this own “English cottage-style” studio in Hollywood.

They later became the A&M Studios, and now are home of Jim Henson

Company Studios. The original Superman TV series was shot here.

Chaplin stubbornly refused to take on the talkies (movies with

He played the cello, violin and piano and composed his own soundtracks.

Nat King Cole, Diana Ross and Michael Jackson have all recorded

Chaplin’s song ‘Smile’. And Dame Petula Clark had a UK No 1 with his ‘This

Is My Song’.

Chaplin chose Switzerland having become disillusioned with the

US. Hounded for his alleged communist sympathies and in the throes of

an embarrassing paternity suit, his re-entry permit was revoked by the

FBI while he was on his way to London for the premiere of Limelight.

He refused to return to “moral pomposity” of the United States, “that

unhappy country” with its “hate-beleaguered atmosphere”.

Chaplin is the area’s most famous former resident, although writer

Graham Greene and actress Audrey Hepburn also lived close by. Actor

David Niven is buried in Chateau d’Oex. The Russian novelist Vladimir

Nabakov lived at the Montreux Palace.

Visitors to the museum can also explore the Beau-Rivage Palace

hotel in Lausanne, where the Chaplins stayed before moving into the

Manoir de Ban, and his favourite restaurant, Auberge de l’Onde, among

the sixteenth century winehouses of Saint-Saphorin. Other haunts of

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Kitchen ConfidentialDining with the Nawabs’

(Roli Books

Author Meera Ali photographer Karam Puri

THE NAWABS OF ARCOT, AND THEIR HOSPITALITY

THE EVOLUTION OF BIRYANI

The Nawabs of Hyderabad

Roli Books

Akbar apprising his courtiers that the slaughter of animals should cease, 1590


Shaami Shikhampur from the Nawabs of Hyderabad

Dumpukt from the Nawabs of Kotwara

INGREDIENTS

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

Serves : 6

METHOD

Serves : 8

COOKING AS AN ART


THE NAWABS OF ZAINABAD, AND CAMP ZAINABAD, IN THE RANN OF KUTCH

It was the appreciation of the patron that worked as the inspiration for the chef

(Above) Amir Mahal, in Madras, has been the residence of the Nawabs of Arcot since 1876; (Below) The Nawabs

of Kotwara; (Facing page) Camp Zainabad, in The Rann of Kutch, is the brainchild of Dhanraj Malik


The various charms of Salzburg

Once a stopover on an Austrian tour because

of its links to the Von Trapp family and the

popularity of The Sound of Music movie,

heritage, contemporary museums and an

eclectic dining scene.

By Deepali Nandwani

put Salzburg on the map for world travellers. The baroque garden, with

balustrades, has geometric rows of colourful annuals, fountains, statues

and hedges. The palace has an embellished cathedral where couples get

married. “Those steps are the ones down which Julie and the Von Trapp

kids skip,” says Ilse, rapidly leading the way even as I run to catch up.

Salzburg, she says, a city founded by the missionaries, once owed

allegiance to France, and then to Bavaria, before being co-opted in Austria.

We walk to the famous Getreidegasse in the Old Town, a picturesque

shopping alley and food street that ends in an open central area dominated

and for centuries, has repelled attackers. Today’s invaders arrive via the

marionettes and savour the ramparts’ striking panoramic views.

We walk through the Steingasse, Salzburg’s old town, which is a

UNESCO world heritage site. The gables of the tall houses are typical for a

Salzburg street with medieval and baroque townhouses. This narrow alley

was part of the city’s red light district, of which nothing remains. In the

late 17th and early 18th century, Salzburg was known as a cosmopolitan

“THE ALPS! THE ALPS!”

the most beautiful airport in the world, with views of snow-swathed

surrounded by the beautiful mountains.

Over the next three days, Hotel Sacher Salzburg, The Leading

Hotels of the World member, is the base from which I explore the

delightful town. The city looks right out of the pages of Grimms’ Fairy

Tales: medieval buildings of the pedestrian Altstadt (Old City) on the

left bank of the icy blue Salzach River, and 19th-century Neustadt (New

City) on the right. Its skyline is dominated by steeples, domes, churches

and markets.

The art nouveau-style Hotel Sacher Salzburg is at a walking distance

from Mozart’s family home, now a museum. This 150-year-old heritage

hotel, once the cool hang-out place for noblemen, high clergymen,

members of the ruling house and artists, is now owned by the Gürtler and

Winkler family, which also owns Hotel Sacher Wein.

location and the best cake in town. On this bitterly cold day, Pharisäer,

priests, who spoke against the evils of alcohol in their Sunday sermons.

And what can go better with a Pharisäer than, of course, a piece of the

delicious Sacher-Torte, dry on the outside and moist inside, which was

created in 1832 by 16-year-old apprentice Franz Sacher, and is still made

true to the original, using a secretive recipe. About 360,000 hand-made

cakes are shipped worldwide and an annual limited Artists’ Collection was

launched in 2008: renowned Austrian artists like Hermann Nitsch, Gustav

Peichl, Christian Ludwig Attersee, Xenia Hausner and Herbert Brandl have

re-designed the elegant wooden box as a piece of Austrian art, available

in a strictly limited edition of 1,000 pieces.

THE SALZBURG WALK

walking city tour. We briskly walk across the street to Mirabell Palace

and Gardens, where Fräulein Maria and the Von Trapp kids sang ‘Do Re

Mi’ in the hugely successful musical The Sound of Music, the movie that

(Above) The Salzach River divides Salzburg into two parts;(Right) Mozart’s home has been turned into a museum


TRAVEL

land, and the Mozart-Wohnhaus (residence) beckons me. Snatches from

his music play in the background as I browse through his notes, watch

the movie made on his various travels across the world, learn about his

family, and understand what made the factors that made this genius what

he really was.

Three icons really dominate Austria’s celebrity landscape: Mozart,

Empress Elisabeth or Sisi, the rebellious Queen who was a feminist way

before the term was coined, and the Von Trapp family.

form of rococo facades.

Longchamp jostle for space with local shops that sell traditional Austrian

clothing, warm jackets, knick-knacks (I spied a ‘yogi cow’ in one such),

quaint cafes, high, narrow houses tightly nestled together, beautiful

restaurants, and chocolate shops that sell Mozartkugel, a confection with

a moist marzipan centre, surrounded by layers of dark and light praline

baroque buildings north of the Alps. On our day of

visit, the rehearsal for the grand Easter mass had just

got over, and little children in monk habits and priests

trooped out. The church is a reserve for everything

precious: the baptismal font in which Mozart was

baptised, and the majestic main organ surrounded

by angels playing instruments. On the way back, Ilse

stops at Cafe Tomaselli, a 1703 institution in the heart

of Alter Markt Square, an ancient café where Mozart himself spent hours.

We end the day with a freezing walk to K+K, a much-recommended

restaurant that looks like someone’s mountain cabin: wood panelling,

beautiful views and an intimate dining table overhung with a light orb

right. Our special menu had a scrumptious Mushroom Risotto, an Aberseer

It is unthinkable to miss the Mozart museum when you are in his

(From top, clockwise) Cafe Tomaselli, a 1703 institution, is where Mozart spent a lot of his youth, writing music; Cafe Sacher is popular with both

cream and rum; and Sacher-Torte was created in 1832 at Cafe Sacher

Ilse comes to stop right outside

dating back to 774

The Dom Zu Salzburg, a 774 dated cathedral, often hosts music concerts

The Mondsee Cathedral was the venue

Getreidegasse is the old town of Salzburg with crews of Fortress Hohensalzburg


THE SOUND OF MUSIC TOUR

in Salzburg. Our gregarious American guide keeps us engaged with his

antics, including dancing around the bus pole, but Austria’s Lake District,

part of which we drive past, is pristine and far more attractive.

The bus makes several stops: at the Trapp villa with the Alps in the

backdrop, which now houses the Mozart Academy, the sun shining weakly

on its taupe façade; and Hellbrunn where the famous gazebo in the

song ‘I am 16, going on 17’ was shot. (Seemingly, the gazebo wasn’t big

enough to shoot the dance, so it was shot on a set in LA). This is where our

American guide gave us a bit of information: the actual Von Trapp family

instruments. Instead, they took a metro to Italy and then a boat to the

US. They lived for a year on a bus, gave concerts, bought a farm and then

opened a lodge.

The natives don’t quite like the Hollywood version, though; they root

for the German version. Salzburg has a thriving music scene, and every

spring, people from across Europe descend on the town for its various

Western classical concerts in its stately venues, some of them open air.

On The Sound of Music tour, you will drive through Fuschlsee, the

belonging to the actual Von Trapp family. On the way back, we stopped

at Leopoldskron Palace (www.schloss-leopoldskron.com) portrayed as the

Von Trapp villa in the timeless movie.

THE LAKE DISTRICT

Salzkammergut. It is studded with 76-odd glacier-fed lakes that are

drove past a restaurant that serves free-range deer meat, and you can see

deers grazing in the pastures. There is the village of Strobl, on the banks

of Lake Wolfgangsee, with an icy glacier lake with trails for hiking, biking

and winter-skiing, and the Bad Ischl town with a popular salt spa and cafes

bearing Sisi’s name.

From Strobl, you can take a boat cruise to the villages of St Gilgen

and St Wolfgang. The region is popular as a destination for hiking and

skiing on the slopes of Mount Zwolferhorn. The Schafbergbahn railway, a

19th-century steam engine train, starts from Wolfgang and passes through

the Alps all around.

a serving of the hot apple strudel, a delicious pastry with a gooey, creamy

centre. The pretty village has the striking yellow church where Captain

Von Trapp married Maria in the movie. The Marktplatz (market square) has

several cafes and gift shops.

CONTEMPORARY SALZBURGSalzburg is a city with an impressive arts scene. Housed in the baroque

Neue Residenz palace, the Salzburg Museum takes you on a journey

through the city’s past and present, within ornate rooms that showcase

Roman excavations and royal portraits. The contemporary glass and

in stark contrast to the fortress. It hosts several temporary exhibitions of

20th- and 21st-century art. Rupertinum, Salzburg’s museum of modern art

houses several important works by Austrian artists Klimt and Kokoschka.

For modern Austrian art, head to Palais Kuenburg, a gallery situated in an

ancient alley in the heart of the old town.

Goldener Hirsch, situated in the old stables of a townhouse, is among

Tomaselli, a restaurant dating back to 1705, is a local legend because a

young Mozart patronized it. It has been given a contemporary makeover

without letting go of its heritage character. If you want to hang out where

the young do, head to Havana, a discreet bar populated by the cool

30-somethings.

A replica of the ‘The Sound of Music Gazebo’ at Hellbrunn’s grounds

Salzburg’s outskirts are studded with 76 glacial-fed lakes

The baroque Mirabell Garden is where the famous ‘Do Re Me’ song from The

Sound of Music was shot


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(Below) (Facing page)

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In the cavernous lobby of The

By Deepali Nandwani

coastal patches

Goa’s Garden of Eden

Goa’s Garden of Eden


Across the property are several

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(From top)

THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 74 | SUMMER 2017 SUMMER 2017 | | THE LEELA MAGAZINE

The new Epic Global Cuisine menu at

The Leela Ambience Gurugram creatively

The Leela Ambience Gurugram’s Executive Sous Chef Abhishek

The ambience at The Elitaire Lounge plays a vital role in enhancing

An epicurean extravaganza

By Shikha Talwar

A


An Indic Symbol

MEGU is a Japanese restaurant with an inventive menu and an elegant decor

The Leela Palace New Delhi

Which are your favourite restaurants and

favourite dishes at The Leela Palace New Delhi?

The Leela Palace New Delhi has some of the best tables

in the city. MEGU is serene with superlative service —

ideal for a business lunch. In what seems like a moderne

Japanese garden, it has an inventive menu that’s light

on the palate, with MEGU signatures, which are little

pieces of heaven. I could eat here every day.

Le Cirque is always a ceremony — with drama

with decadence. They have a good wine list and a

Rock Lobster Risotto, or the Sea bass in crispy potato

paupiette served with a Barolo reduction, a Le Cirque

classic since its Daniel Boulud (one of my favourite

chefs) days in New York.

When I’m alone, in the winter, I have a quiet meal

outdoors across the magical garden with a view of the

really quite romantic.

A Sotheby’s auction preview was held at the property recently.

How was your overall experience?

From my days at LVMH Moët Hennessy to my debut event with Sotheby’s

recently, The Leela Palace New Delhi is always on point. The F&B team

gets it — they understand my uncompromising vision, my penchant for

perfection and know how to enthrall my guests. Chef Adrian’s menus are

fresh and au courant. The service is discreet and elegant. It’s a class act.

What’s your take on the service at the hotel?

I almost always stay at The Leela Palace when in New Delhi. The

service is seamless — warm and inviting, invisible yet

attentive, anticipatory and always caring. The rooms

are sumptuous.

The concierge once went through lengths and

breadths to get me home (after a week of staying with

them), in time before my children went to bed. They

changed my ticket, ensured I didn’t pay an extra charge,

and had a gentleman waiting outside the gate with my

minutes. I will never forget getting that Sunday evening

with my boys! Now that’s what you call service. That is

true luxury.

You are known as the quintessential Champagne

boy. Tell us about your favourite tipple at the

bars at the property?

The Library Bar is one of my favourite bars in India. I

of Dom Pérignon or a Moët & Chandon Rosé. It’s always refreshing. They

make a mean martini and a delicious Negroni. For a glass of wine, Atul

Tiwari, the sommelier extraordinaire, is your man.

It’s discreet and quiet. Yet it captures the glamour and the subtle

sexiness of the hotel. It’s a little piece of nirvana in a jewel box.

What stays with you at The Leela Palace New Delhi?

The welcome — everyone knows you by name and your little quirks.

The Leela Palace New Delhi is an intelligent hotel. With unabashed

glamour. Immaculately orchestrated.

JET SET GO

Gaurav Bhatiais Managing Director,

Sotheby’s India,

hotel junkie and

Follow him on Instagram @

Can you tell us about the new menu at Le Cirque Signature at The Leela

Mumbai?

The classic Le Cirque dishes are hugely popular among guests, and I have

not changed the recipe of those. They still feature alongside my new menu,

which is inspired by the spring colours of Tuscany, with complex textures

and modern-day ingredients. Each dish on the new menu is unique in itself.

Not only in taste but also in plating. I have also given a lot of thought to

people, I have also introduced a lot of healthy options. I have played with

superfoods and ingredients such as quinoa and buckwheat, which, while

being exotic, are also extremely nutritious.

Which are the must-try desserts at the restaurant?

Pain Perdu and Crème Brulee. They pair well with the new menu.

What are the three kitchen tools you

can’t do without?

The three tools that I can’t do without are

tweezers, my personally crafted knife, and

the tasting spoon.

Share a cooking tip with us.

Before cooking something, you should

know the foods you are using — touch,

smell and taste, even if it is raw. It will

make you understand better the potential

of the food.

What do you enjoy most about working

at The Leela Mumbai?

Working at The Leela Mumbai has been

an enriching experience for me. It gives

me freedom to experiment. I also get to

interact with my guests and understand

their feedback, and this in turn has made

me master the art of customisation, which

I feel is crucial in today’s day and age.

The Head Chef at Le Cirque Signature

at The Leela Mumbai tells us about the

new menu at the restaurant and his

most important kitchen tools.

Lorenzo Severini

Chef Lorenzo

Severini started his

culinary journey at

the young age of

high school Fratelli

Pieroni in Barga, in

Italy. He interned

with renowned chefs

Gioacchino Pontrelli

and Cesare Casella

during the early stage

of his career. Currently,

he is heading Le

Cirque Signature at

The Leela Mumbai.

In his previous stint,

Severini worked as a

sous chef at Le Cirque

New York.

Rigatoni with wild mushrooms at Le Cirque Signature at The Leela Mumbai


CHEF’S CORNER

EVENTS

The Leela Palace New Delhi played host to the ‘Chivas 18 Alchemy

— crafted for the senses’ event, organised by Chivas Regal in

Soni played the alchemist for the sense of smell by creating three new

Twine appreciation events across the world, and recently its Delhi chapter

Lavish feasts

A sensory delight Capital’s prideT

The Leela Palace New Delhi, which has set a new benchmark for

T

from hotels and accommodations to destinations, attractions, and

Vox populi


Barnabas Sibusiso Dlamini

The Leela Palace New Delhirecommend this hotel to any discerning person

General Prayut Chan-ocha


Sheikh Saeed bin Maktoum bin Rashid Al Maktoum


Princess Azizah

The Leela Mumbai

Dr Marijn Dekkers

The Leela Mumbai

Dr Shashi Tharoor

The Leela Palace Udaipur

How you can contribute:

Turning India water-efficient

Ayyappa Masagi

W

to save his own crops, has went on to helping his

“Rainfall is not a problem, water is not a problem, it is a

and washing machines which has

Water Crises — Converting dry land

By Shikha Talwar and Malika Lalwani


leela summer 2017 · 2017-05-12 · female characters came from the ambalavasi nambiar caste...

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