L I F E . E X T R A O R D I N A R Y

February 2018

HOW PETER WOOBREATHED NEW LIFE INTOTHE MURRAY BUILDING

HK$45

hong kong tatler . february 2018 . vol 41 . no 492 15

FEATURES94 ModernMaster

The man with the vision behind the city’s newest luxury hotel, Peter Woo, tells of the care that went into preserving the heritage of the landmark Murray Building

102 SocietyGirlsIn the lead-up to their big night at Le Bal des Débutantes, 21 privileged young women impress with their reservoir of positivity, personal development and philanthropic thinking

110 PrideofLebanonDesigner Elie Saab, who endured the fear and chaos of war-torn Beirut and emerged as the king of Middle Eastern couture, discusses success and philanthropy

116 Asia’sMostEligibleMeet the most charming, witty, good-looking, successful, savvy and, most importantly, unmarried men and women of the continent

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CONTRIBUTORS

MADELEINE ROSS The Sydney-based writer explores Lisbon’s booming creative and gastronomic scene in Age of Rediscovery (p.134)

Coffee or tea?Coffee. Or ginger tea. Black tea is just a poor man’s coffee.

When are you happiest? Under a European sun. I’m such a cliché.

The cleanest air you’ve ever breathed was in…Portsea, on the southernmost tip of Australia’s Mornington Peninsula.

What’s the one item you can’t live without?Lip balm. Or my sheepskin-lined slippers.

TIM GRIFFITHSThe London-based photographer records the most glamorous moments at Le Bal des Débutantes in Society Girls (p.102)

Is there a portrait or photo you’re particularly proud of?The black-and-white interiors of Chanel’s apartment in Paris.

Favourite city?London.

Name three people you would invite to your ideal dinner.Jane Fonda, Harrison Ford and Queen Elizabeth II.

Favourite moment from Le Bal?Meeting American writer Bob Colacello, and when a former deb tried to pull off Reese Witherspoon’s bend-and-snap move from Legally Blonde—she bent and the dress snapped.

OLIVIER YOANThe London-based fashion photographer captures the romantic side of cold weather in Winter’s Bloom (p.54)

Favourite photographer?Sally Mann, Sebastião Salgado and Steve McCurry top my list.

What’s the weirdest place you’ve done a photo shoot? Nothing is weird to me.

Which icon of the past would you like to photograph and why?Martin Luther King Jr, because now more than ever we need to share his message.

Guiltiest pleasure?Carbs in all forms.

CALLAGHAN WALSH The Hong Kong-based photographer shoots cover star Peter Woo at the just-opened Murray hotel for Modern Master (p.94)

What’s the weirdest location you’ve worked?A morgue. Many years back, when I was starting out in Sydney, I assisted a photographer who was photographing the chief coroner.

If you could travel back in time, which era would you go to?As far back as humanly possible. I’d love to know how it all started and find answers to the unanswered.

What’s your most treasured possession?My Nikon FM3A 35mm film camera. Shooting film again is a revelation.

Society GirlsAs she shares the preparations of 21

privileged young women for their big night at Le Bal des Débutantes, Marianna Cerini

discovers a reservoir of positivity, personal development and

philanthropic thinking

Society GirlsAs she shares the preparations of 21

privileged young women for their big night at Le Bal des Débutantes, Marianna Cerini

discovers a reservoir of positivity, personal development and

philanthropic thinking

Photography TIM GRIFFITHS

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If you look up debutante in the Oxford Dictionary, you’ll find it defined as “an upper-class young woman making her first appearance in fashionable society.” But it’s much more than that, I find after spending four days with 21 such women in Paris for Le Bal des Débutantes. From the moment we meet to their gathering on the grand staircase of the Peninsula for a group photo before the ball, the debs are constantly in the limelight. Rather than the polite young women of yore introduced to a genteel high-society marriage market in search of a suitable mate, they conjure in my mind images from Hollywood. They give numerous interviews, run to fittings across town, sit for hours of hair and make-up, then even longer hours in photo sessions—not just for the Asia Tatler titles, but also for Vanity Fair, Grazia China, Vogue India and Paris Match.

IN GOOD COMPANY Standing: Gauravi Kumari in Tarun Tahiliani, Ava Phillippe in Giambattista Valli, Laila Blavatnik in Ralph & Russo, Helena Alesi in Emanuel Ungaro, Ananya Panday in Jean Paul Gaultier, Maria Francisca de Bragança in Laurinda Farmhouse, Paris McCaw in Oscar de la Renta, Alice de Séjournet de Rameignies in Guo Pei,

Costanza Diaz della Vittoria Pallavicini in Valentino, Alice Ho in Christian Dior, Cecily Lasnet in Chanel, Éléonore Cochin in Stéphane Rolland, Charlotte Bell in Monique Lhuillier. Seated: Amina Martinez de Irujo y Casanova in Zuhair Murad, Jeanne Malle in Vivienne Westwood, Lori Harvey in Elie Saab, Lily Webster in Alexis Mabille

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As the cameras flash at the glamorous group on the staircase, paparazzi and curious passers-by outside crane their necks for a glimpse. Make-up artists and hair stylists watch vigilantly from a corner, ready to run to the rescue should lipstick smudge or tresses lose their shine. On the other side, debs’ mums—and entire entourages in some cases—angle their smartphones for pictures and videos. The scene screams Oscars red carpet more than genteel high-society event. But this is the 21st century, and this is what a cotillion looks like in our media-centric era. “This is the ball everyone wants to come to,” says 16-year-old Spanish deb Amina Martinez de Irujo y Casanova between shoots. “My friend Daniela [Figo, the daughter of footballer Luis Figo] participated last year, and she told me how great it was. I’ve been dying to attend ever since.”

The hype is real. Since Le Bal des Débutantes was launched in 1992 by PR maven Ophélie Renouard, it has become the most coveted gala of its kind among both European aristocrats and American business and showbiz types. A number of debutante balls take place around the world, particularly in the US, and let’s not forget the famous Vienna Opera Ball, but Le Bal is the pinnacle. That’s because it’s the only ball that is strictly by invitation only, and the only one that requires its debutantes to don couture gowns, paired with jewellery by Payal New York. Add to that the old-world glamour of Paris and you’ve got the perfect formula for a bash to remember—and to yearn to be part of among today’s upper echelons.

“It’s not a rented crowd,” says Renouard of those who attend, “and that makes all the difference. The girls feel privileged to be chosen and to wear world-famous designers, often for the first time. What’s more, they get to be shot by illustrious publications. It’s a well-heeled tradition woven with fashion, media and glamour.”

While some might think the concept of a debutante ball old-fashioned and outdated, “it’s actually a really cool event,” says Lily Webster, 17, the daughter of American

businessman William Mendenhall Webster IV. “I’m having a wonderful time. I’m really into fashion, so seeing all the dresses is great. Not to mention the opportunity to meet girls from all over the world. We all have different perspectives, all come from different backgrounds, and it’s really interesting to experience that.”

Indeed, Le Bal’s pedigree is international. Besides Europe and the US, China, Vietnam and the Philippines have all been represented in recent years, as have Egypt and India. This 2017 edition, the 25th, numbers a princess from Rajasthan, Gauravi Kumari of Jaipur, and Bollywood actress Ananya Panday among its debutantes. Alice Ho, the youngest daughter of tycoon Stanley, is here from Hong Kong via Boston, where she is enrolled at MIT. “I live in a bit of a nerd world—I’m very much passionate about maths and computer science myself—and Le Bal is the complete opposite of that,” she says. “It’s this glitzy, fun, fabulous thing, and I’m honoured to be here, but I’m also having a blast. Plus, I’m wearing a gown by Dior that’s just phenomenal.”

The mix of heiresses, aristocrats and celebrities’ offspring is nothing new for Le Bal. Past years have welcomed Olympia Taittinger, scion of the champagne family, Princess Lorenza of Liechtenstein and Ella Beatty, daughter of Warren Beatty and Annette Bening. There have been other Hollywood A-listers too: a Stallone, an Eastwood and a Willis. This time the big name is Ava Phillippe, the 18-year-old daughter of Reese Witherspoon and Ryan Phillippe. Lori Harvey, another American, also has celebrity cred; she’s the step-daughter of TV show host and comedian Steve Harvey, and is a social media star and model on the rise. Ava and Lori have around 500,000 followers each on Instagram. In the age of digital sharing, presences like theirs add to the aura of the event, along with the many Insta stories and photos they and the other debs will post after Le Bal (Renouard forbids any sharing during the event, which no doubt further enhances the mystique).

“This is totally different from anything else I have ever done,” says Lori, who at 20 is one

“It’s kind of a dreamy weekend. It’s about gorgeous, smart young women having a great time and

looking amazing”

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BRIGHT YOUNG THINGSOpposite page, clockwise from top left: Ananya Panday, Lily Webster, Ava Phillippe, Paris McCaw and Laila Blavatnik with a Peninsula bellboy; Cecily Lasnet, the daughter of former British model Stella Tennant and French photographer David Lasnet, with her cavalier, Antoine Dwernicki; Ananya during hair and make-up; Lily just after her debut; Laila snaps the other debs. This page, from left: Ava, Lori Harvey, Alice Ho and Laila; Alice dances with her cavalier; Natasha d’Arenberg, Maria Pia de Jong d’Orléans et Bragança, and Charlotte de Nassau strike a pose in the hotel’s foyer

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A NIGHT TO REMEMBER Above: Four of the debs—Costanza Diaz della Vittoria Pallavicini, Maria Pia de Jong, Princess Charlotte de Nassau and Donna Giacinta dei Marchesi Brivio Sforza on the staircase of the Peninsula. Below, from left: Ava Phillippe waltzes with Padmanabh Singh of Jaipur; Jeanne Malle makes an entrance with her brother and cavalier, Lucien; Alice de Séjournet de Rameignies on the arm of Bollywood actor Ahaan Panday, Ananya Panday’s cousin

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of the seniors. “And I’ve modelled for D&G. It’s kind of a dreamy weekend. Princess-like.” She pauses. “Okay, the word does sounds a little naff, but what I mean is, it’s about gorgeous, smart young women having a great time and looking amazing.”

“And waltzing,” laughs Ananya, 19, the daughter of Chunky Panday, Bollywood’s answer to Richard Gere. “I’m actually slightly worried about dancing with my dad because I know he’ll put his own twist to it, but I loved taking dance lessons. It also helped with my career,” she adds, referring to her leading role in a coming film.

For most of the young women I talk to, Le Bal is also an opportunity to engage with serious issues afflicting the world’s less privileged. The ball raises funds for two charities—the New York-based Seleni Institute, which supports the reproductive and mental health of teen mothers, and Enfants d’Asie, which promotes education for girls in Southeast Asia.

“The charity element of Le Bal was the main draw for me,” says Helena Alesi, the daughter of former French Formula One driver Jean Alesi and Japanese actress Kumiko Goto. “As young women—as wealthy, lucky, advantaged women—we have to get involved with the many, many things that are wrong with our world today. It’s our duty.”

“It’s an opportunity to make a difference,” agrees 18-year-old Laila Blavatnik, the daughter of billionaire British-American businessman Len Blavatnik, the owner of Warner Music Group. “The fact that all the fun and gloss stand for something makes the event inspirational.”

“All the debs I select reflect a certain profile,” says Renouard. “They share strong values. They are very concerned with the world. They are switched on, as a lot of young women are today. They come from excellent backgrounds, yes, but they aren’t brats.”

During my time with them, I’ve seen nothing but positive energy. Three hours into their first hair and make-up session, a group

ARRIVING IN STYLEAlice de Séjournet de Rameignies, Costanza Diaz della Vittoria Pallavicini, Alice Ho and Jeanne Malle pose with Le Bal’s custom Renault

chat is created on Whatsapp to exchange tips, info on where the next shoot is, and group selfies. The sentence I hear most often as I pass the debs in the hallways is, “I can’t wait to see us all together in our dresses.” There’s incessant chatter about what university everyone is applying to, and words of advice from those already there. “It’s empowering, this,” says Alice. “A special way to celebrate womanhood. And a unique bonding experience, too. We girls need more of this, whether in ball form or not.”

Their big night finally arrives and the young women are radiant in their gowns, accompanied by their cavaliers, as they are announced to a room full of flashing cameras. With cooing parents and society figures from around the world, they enjoy a lavish four-course dinner during which their comradeship is ever more palpable. It grows even stronger as the party moves to the Peninsula’s Etoile Ballroom, where fathers and cavaliers lead the debutantes into their first waltzes. Much later in the night, with couture off and regular clothes back on, and with parents tucked up back in their rooms, they sing in unison at the nightclub Arc until hoarse.

“This is just a great weekend” says Alice. “A really wonderful weekend.”

“Le Bal is a special way to celebrate womanhood. And a unique bonding experience, too. We girls need more of this, whether in ball form or not”