Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Trent Holden, Kate Morgan, Kevin Raub

Crete

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Welcome to Crete . . . . . . . 4

Crete Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Crete’s Top 15 . . . . . . . . . . .8

Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .16

First Time Crete . . . . . . . .18

What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Accommodation . . . . . . . 22

Getting Around . . . . . . . . 24

If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Month by Month . . . . . . . 28

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Outdoor Activities . . . . . 38

Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . .47

Family Travel . . . . . . . . . . 56

Regions at a Glance . . . . 59

HANIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62Hania . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64

East of Hania . . . . . . . . . . .81

Akrotiri Peninsula . . . . . . . . 81Aptera & Around . . . . . . . . . 83Almyrida . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84Vamos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84Georgioupoli . . . . . . . . . . . . 85Vryses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86Southwest Coast & Sfakia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86

Askyfou . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87Frangokastello . . . . . . . . . . 87Hora Sfakion . . . . . . . . . . . . 89Loutro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91Agia Roumeli . . . . . . . . . . . . 92Sougia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92Paleohora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95Elafonisi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99Gavdos Island . . . . . . . . . . 100Lefka Ori & Samaria Gorge . . . . . .103

Hania to Omalos . . . . . . . . 103Omalos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103Theriso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104Samaria Gorge . . . . . . . . . 105Northwest Coast . . . . . . 105

Rodopou Peninsula . . . . . 108Kissamos (Kastelli) . . . . . 109Gramvousa Peninsula . . . .111Falasarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113Innahorion Villages . . . . . 114

RETHYMNO . . . . . . . .118Rethymno . . . . . . . . . . . . 119

West of Rethymno . . . . . . . . . . . 134

Argyroupoli . . . . . . . . . . . 134The Hinterland & Mt Psiloritis . . . . . . . . .136

Mili Gorge . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136Chromonastiri . . . . . . . . . . 136Moni Arkadiou . . . . . . . . . . 137Margarites . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137Perama to Anogia . . . . . . . 141Anogia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142Mt Psiloritis . . . . . . . . . . . . 144Coast to Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145

Armeni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145Spili . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145Southern Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .147

Plakias . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Myrthios . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Preveli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Beaches Between Plakias & Agia Galini . . . . 152Agia Galini . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153Northeastern Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .155

Panormo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155Bali . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157

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Contents

IRAKLIO . . . . . . . . . . 162Iraklio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .163

Around Iraklio . . . . . . . . . 178

Knossos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178West of Iraklio . . . . . . . . .183

Agia Pelagia . . . . . . . . . . . . 183Fodele . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183Central Iraklio . . . . . . . . .183

Arhanes & Around . . . . . . 184Iraklio Wine Country . . . . 185Myrtia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190Zaros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191Southern Iraklio . . . . . . .192

Gortyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193Phaestos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194Agia Triada . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195Matala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196Lendas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206Northeastern Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207

Gournes & Around . . . . . . 207Hersonisos . . . . . . . . . . . . 207Malia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .209

LASITHI . . . . . . . . . . 216Northern Coast . . . . . . . . 217

Agios Nikolaos . . . . . . . . . 217Elounda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227Spinalonga Peninsula . . . 232Plaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232Kritsa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234Lasithi Plateau . . . . . . . 236

Tzermiado . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237Agios Georgios . . . . . . . . . 237Psyhro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238Northeastern Coast . . . 238

Istro & Around . . . . . . . . . 238Gournia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239Mohlos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239Sitia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .240Moni Toplou . . . . . . . . . . . . 244Eastern Coast . . . . . . . . 244

Vaï . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244Itanos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244Palekastro . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245Zakros & Kato Zakros . . . 246Southern Coast . . . . . . . 249

Ierapetra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249East of Ierapetra . . . . . . . . 253Myrtos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256

The Cretan Way of Life . . . . . . . . . . . 270

Minoan Art & Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . 276

The Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . .281

Nature & Wildlife . . . . . 287

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 290

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 296

Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 302

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . .319

UNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURESLazy Beach Days . . . . . 160

Palace of Knossos 3D Illustration . . . . . . . 180

Lazy Days Wining & Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212

Witnesses to History . . 215

SURVIVAL GUIDE

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Essential Crete

Bookended by two of Crete’s great cities, this route is a roller-coaster ride through the natural wonders of mountain and sea and the best of the island’s historical treasures. You’ll also get to soak up Venetian architecture, and feast on both mountain-village and seafront cuisine.

Start in Iraklio, checking out the superb museums before heading to the Palace of Knossos where the mysterious Minoans ruled about 4000 years ago. Spend a day

enjoying the fruits of the Iraklio Wine Country Country, where 70% of Crete’s wine is produced, and which is dotted with wineries.. Next, stake out a base near Matala to combine trips to Gortyna, the former capital of Roman Crete, as well as the Minoan palaces of Phaestos and Agia Triada. The outstanding Cretan cultural museum at Vori and swimming at wide, sandy Kommos and Matala beaches round out the area’s offerings.

Travelling west, lunch in the quaint vil-lage of Spili, home to several excellent tav-ernas creating tradtional Cretan cuisine.

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Loutro (p91)

Then drive to Moni Preveli, a working monastery on a hill with sweeping views of the Libyan Sea, and picture-postcard Preveli Beach, before steering north to Rethymno for a wander around its lovely maze of Venetian lanes. From here, venture into the countryside, folding the pottery village of Margarites, Moni Arkadiou or the mountain village of Argyroupoli into your route.

Zip west to Hania, a lively modern city wrapped around a romantic Venetian har-bour and atmosphere-laden pedestrianised quarters, and also your next base. When you’ve had your fill of this historic beauty,

take the early bus to Samaria Gorge and trek one of Europe’s most famous canyons to the beachfront terminus at the small hamlet of Agia Roumeli. Stay over or catch a boat to Loutro to overnight in this quaint village accessible only on foot or by boat. Next morning, take the boat to Hora Sfakion where you can have a seafood lunch and the local cheese-stuffed-crêpe speciality, and then loop back to Hania.

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This trip presents you with the mother lode of soul-stirring attractions, including the unspoiled southern coast, higgledy-piggledy mountain villages and some of Crete’s best beaches, as well as spirit-lifting culture and gastro treats in Crete’s two most attractive towns, Rethymno and Hania.

Kick off your trip in Iraklio, taking in the Her-aklion Archaeological Museum and imposing fortress, and swing out to the Palace of Knos-sos, before steering west to quaint Anogia, where ancient traditions and Cretan music thrive at the foot of Mt Psiloritis. Continue west via the pottery village of Margarites to Moni Arkadiou, the site of one of the bloodiest mo-ments in Crete’s struggle for independence from the Turks. Spend the next day in Rethymno, taking your sweet time ambling around its be-witching mix of Turkish and Venetian buildings.

From Rethymno push on to the southern coast, where the lively beach town of Plakias makes an ideal base for exploring nearby se-cluded beaches, including Preveli Beach, stun-ningly located at the mouth of a rugged gorge.

Heading west, stop at the seaside fortress of Frangokastello before zipping over to Hora Sfakion, where you can hop on a boat to ex-plore the remote villages along this beautiful stretch of coast. Continue north towards the Lefka Ori (White Mountains) and make time for a hike through spectacular Imbros Gorge. Con-tinue to the northern coast and linger a night or two in Hania, with its beautiful harbour, grand fortress and ambience-packed old town.

From here you can easily zip over to the far western reaches of Crete. Take the circular route southwest via Kolymbari and the Inna-horion villages to the westernmost tip of the island at Elafonisi, which beckons with pink-shimmering sandy beaches. Pushing back north via the coastal road, continue the beach theme at broad Falasarna with its rolling waves, or detour to the Gramvousa Peninsula. You’ll most likely access the peninsula’s spectacular lagoon-like beach at Balos by day-boat from Kissamos.

Returning to Iraklio via Hania, consider making a quick detour to the springs of Argy-roupoli, before taking the coastal road east of Rethymno via peaceful Panormo and busy Bali.

10 DAYS Central to West Crete

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Iraklio is a big, busy city, but it can be a useful base for visiting many of Crete’s most famous sights. Since the bus network is decent in this province, it can even be done without your own vehicle. Alternatively, if you do have wheels and your budget allows, stay in more scenic Arhanes in the nearby Iraklio Wine Country, to make these looping day trips.

Crete’s largest city, Iraklio offers top-notch museums, a Venetian fortress, a colourful street market, lively nightlife and excellent dining. While here, make sure you visit the expertly curated Heraklion Archaeological Museum so that you’ll be prepared for Crete’s grandest Mi-noan relic, the Palace of Knossos. Drive or hop on a bus for the quick ride to this mesmerising, and partially reconstructed, introduction to Minoan society.

On another day, apply what you’ve learned in Knossos on a visit to the Palace of Malia, another Minoan site, and some people’s fa-vourite, with sweeping sea views. You can then explore small mountain villages by zigzagging through tiny Krasí to Kerá, which is home to the revered Kerá Kardiotissas Monastery, with its 14th-century frescoes and holy icon. Nearby Sfendile was controversially inundated by the creation of a dam.

If you have your own wheels, designate a driv-er and spend a day sampling the local vintages of the Iraklio Wine Country, home to many wineries and tasting rooms. Plan to stop at the Nikos Kazantzakis Museum in Myrtia and the moody Minoan vestiges in Arhanes, which also has great traditional tavernas – perfect for a lunch break. Or sample the tipple around Dafnes, the other main hub of wine country.

Take a scenic drive to the rustic mountain village of Zaros, at the foot of Mt Psiloritis. Leave time to hike nearby trails, explore Byz-antine churches and dine on fresh trout. If you’re thirsty for a beach day instead of a hike, continue a bit further along to beautiful sands at Kommos or Matala. And if you have time to sleep over, the next day you can explore quaint villages such as Sivas, Minoan ruins at Phaes-tos, and Roman ones at Gortyna, before loop-ing north again.

1 WEEK Around Iraklio

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There’s a world of discoveries awaiting in eastern Crete, from the cosmopolitan town of Agios Nikolaos to some of the island’s most beautiful churches, moodily historic sights and pristine beaches. Arm yourself with some curiosity and a good map, and the week will fly by with no two days spent the same way.

Make your first base at charismatic Agios Nikolaos, where bustling cafes line the water-front, the harbour and a dark and mysterious lake. Steer north to ritzy Elounda and the ferry ride to Spinalonga Island, a former leper colo-ny turned sightseeing magnet thanks to Victoria Hislop’s novel, The Island, and ensuing TV series.

Another delightful day-trip option from Agios Nikolaos takes you west to the Lasithi Plateau, high on the upper decks of the Dikti mountains, where wind power once drove the sails of thousands of windmills. The main at-traction here is Dikteon Cave, where none other than Zeus himself was born.

South of Agios Nikolaos, Kritsa is one of Crete’s most bewitching mountain villages, with a cool gorge, the island’s oldest church frescoes and the ruins of the ancient city-state of Lato among its attractions. More ruins are in Gour-nia, reached by heading east along the coast, perhaps preceded by a swim at Voulisma Beach and followed by a fish lunch in Mohlos.

Sitia is a handy base in these eastern reaches for trips to Moni Toplou, a brooding fortified monastery, and the palm-lined beach at Vaï. More beaches await near Palekastro, including Kouremenos Beach, Crete’s windsurfing mecca.

The mountains get bigger and more rugged as you head south to Zakros, the launch pad for the trek through Zakros Gorge down to the beach community of Kato Zakros with its Minoan palace ruins. For splendid solitude, brave the serpentine roads leading south to ultra-remote Xerokambos, with its gorgeous sandy beaches.

From here steer west, perhaps stopping in bustling Ierapetra or, better yet, in pretty near-by Myrtos where you can soak up bohemian beach living. The route north back to Agios Nikolaos is wonderful, taking you past bare mountains crowned with cockcombs of rock rising from woods.

1 WEEK Eastern Crete

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edi-tion and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Charilaos Akasiadis, Jack Bairner, Simon Berwick, Jan Bretschneider, Natasha Cole, Nicolas Combremont, Martin Dolheguy, Mark Healey, Chris Hudson, David Hyams, Kevin Johnson, Imke Lerner, Michael Linnard, Veronica Lopes van Balen, Andrew Payne, Thomas Pellier, Michael Po-esen, Dan Rigby, Rob Ryder, Robert Schindler, Katja Schmahl, Sandra Steinhause, Ian Webber, Selena Whitehead, John Wickkiser, Rolf Wrelf, Cathy Wright

WRITER THANKSAndrea Schulte-PeeversHeartfelt thank yous to Kerstin Göllrich for her patience, curiosity, stamina and awesome driving skills; Johannes Bolz for literally going the extra mile for me in the Kritsa Gorge; Konstantinos and Natalie Zivas for wonderful insider tips on Elounda and the north coast, and father Vaggelis for his kitchen wizardry; Alaska Klaus for his insights into hiking the E4; Margarita Kurowska and Jutta Berger for keeping things under control on the home front; and David for being with me in spirit.

Trent HoldenFirst up, a huge thanks to the destination editor, Brana Vladisavljevic, not only for commissioning me on this title, but for all her work at Lonely Planet over the past 15 years. You will be missed! Also sending out my gratitude to the Cretan people who make this island so special with their humbling hospitality, good humour and willingness to help out at all times. Finally lots of love to my fiancé Kate Morgan, and to my family and friends.

Kate MorganHuge thanks to amazing destination editor Brana Vla-disavljevic for commissioning me to work on Crete, Lonely Planet won’t be the same without you. Thank you to Despina in Hania for all of your assistance, to the staff at the Hania tourist information office for your help and to all of the amazing Cretans I met along the way – your generosity and hospitality is unforgettable. And, as always, thank you to my fiancé Trent for being the best travel companion and driving me all over Hania.

Kevin RaubThanks to Brana Vladisavljevic and all my fellow part-ners in crime at Lonely Planet. Thanks also to those I met on the road: Kjetil Jikiun, Giorges Kteniadakis, Andria Mitsakis, Iossif Serafimidis, Dr Emmanuel Prokopkis and the nurses at Pagni, Lydia and Nikos, and the brews of Kykao and Solo.

Behind the Scenes

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Illustrated Highlight p180-1 by Javier Martinez ZarracinaCover photograph: Agios Nikolaos, Vladimir Sklyarov/Getty Images©

THIS BOOKThis 7th edition of Lonely Planet’s Crete guidebook was curated by Andrea Schulte-Peevers and researched and written by Andrea, Trent Holden, Kate Morgan and Kevin Raub. The previous two editions were written by Alexis Averbuck, Kate Armstrong, Korina Miller, Richard Waters, Andrea Schulte-Peevers,

Chris Deliso and Des Han-nigan. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Brana VladisavljevicSenior Product Editor Elizabeth JonesRegional Senior Cartographer Anthony PhelanProduct Editor Ross TaylorBook Designer Ania BartoszekCartographer David Connolly

Assisting Editors Sarah Bailey, James Bainbridge, Judith Bamber, Janice Bird, Samantha Cook, Melanie Dankel, Victoria Harrison, Jennifer Hattam, Rosie Nicholson, Charlotte Orr, Monique Perrin, Christopher Pitts, Tamara ShewardCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Jessica Rose, Georgia Tsarouhas

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Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccessible travel 290accommodation 18, 20,

21, 22-3language 302

activities 38-46, see also diving, hiking, rock climbing, sailing, snorkelling, windsurfing

Afrata 108Afrata Beach 108Agia Fotia Beach 253Agia Galini 153-5Agia Irini Gorge 93-4Agia Marina Donkey

Sanctuary 199Agia Pelagia 183Agia Roumeli 92Agia Triada 195-6, 196Agiofarango Gorge 205, 204Agioi Apostoli 72Agios Georgios 237-8Agios Ioannis 101Agios Pavlos 152-3Agios Nikolaos 10, 217-27,

220, 10accommodation 221-4activities 221beaches 217-21drinking 225-6emergencies 227events 221 festivals 221food 224-5medical services 227nightlife 225-6shopping 226sights 217tourist information 227tours 221travel to/from 227travel within 227

Agios Pavlos 152-3Agreco Farm 135agrimi 288Ahmet Aga Minaret 69air travel 296-7Akrotiri Peninsula 81-3Almyrida 84Almyros Beach 217-21alphabet 303Amari Valley 138-9, 138Ambelos 102Ammos Beach 221Ammoudi Beach 221amusement parks 207Amygdalokefali 114Anatoli 223Ancient Eleutherna 140Ancient Falasarna 113Ancient Itanos 244-5Ancient Kydonia 72Ancient Lappa 135Ancient Lato 236animals 287, see also birdsAnogia 142-4Anopoli 90Anydri 101Anydri Gorge 101Apodoulou 139Aposelemis Dam 209Aptera 83-4Aradena Gorge 93archaeological sites 26-7,

see also historic build-ings, Minoan sites

Ancient Eleutherna 140Ancient Falasarna 113Ancient Itanos 244-5Ancient Lato 236Ancient Lappa 135Aptera 83-4Basilica of Aghia

Sophia 156Diktynna 108Gortyna 193-4, 215, 193,

214-15Lissos 93

Monastery of St Peter & St Paul 167

Necropolis (Argyroupoli) 134

Olous 232Polyrrinia 110Sanctuary of

Asklepios 206Zakros Palace 246-7, 247

area codes 295Argyroupoli 134-6Arhanes 184-5Armeni 145art galleries, see

galleriesarts 281-6, see also

individual artsAskyfou 87ATMs 293Axos 141-2Azogires 98

BBali 157-9Balos 111-12, 32-3bargaining 19bathrooms 295Battle of Crete 29, 266-7beaches 26

Afrata Beach 108Agia Fotia Beach 253Agioi Apostoli 72Agios Ioannis 101Agios Pavlos 152-3Akrotiri Peninsula 82Almyros Beach 217-21Ammos Beach 221Ammoudi Beach 221Bali 158Damnoni Beach 149Diskos 206Elafonisi 12, 99-100,

12, 160Falasarna 113, 27Gargadoros Beach 221Gialiskari Beach 101

Halikia Beach 96Hania 72Hiona Beach 245Hrysi Akti Beach 72Itanos Beaches 245Kalamaki 72Karavostasi 158Karoumes Beach 247Kedrodasos Beach 100Kolokytha 232Kommos Beach 198Kouremenos Beach 245Koutsounari Beach 253Kytroplatia Beach 221Lavrakas 102Ligres 152Limani 158Livadi 158Loutra 206Makrygialos 253Marathi Beach 82Marmara Beach 93Nea Hora Beach 72Orthi Ammos Beach 87Pahia Ammos 95Panormo Beach 156Plaka Town Beach 232Potamos 102Preveli Beach 11, 151,

2, 161Pyrgos 102Red Beach 196Seitan Limania 82Sitia City Beach 240Souda 149Stavros Cove 82Sweetwater Beach 89Triopetra 152-3Vaï 14, 244, 14, 160-1Varkotopo 158Voulisma Beach 238Vrissi Beach 89

beer 20, 53Bembo Fountain 169bicycle travel, see cycling,

mountain biking

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

312

IND

EX B- F

birds 287-8Bizari Basilica 139boat cruises, see also tours

Agia Galini 154Agios Nikolaos 221Balos 112Chrissi Island 252Elounda 227-8Hania 73Plaka 232-3Plakias 148

boat travel 14, 40-1, 297-8, 299, 298

booksbirdwatching 287cooking 50culture 270history 263, 270Minoan civilisation 276websites 274

breweriesCretan Brewery 102Lafkas Brewery 79Solo Brewery 175

budget 17bungee jumping 89bus travel 25, 297, 299, 301bushwalking, see hikingbusiness hours 293-4

Ccanoeing 91canyoning 44-5car travel 24-5, 297, 299-

300, see also road tripshire 24-5

castles, see fortressescathedrals, see churches &

cathedralscaves

Agia Sofia Cave 114Dikteon Cave 12, 238Ideon Cave 144Kronios Cave 237Matala Caves 196-7Melidoni Cave 141Milatos Cave 234Pelekita Cave 247Sfendoni Cave 141Skotino Cave 211

cell phones 294-5

cemeteriesAllied War Cemetery 82Grave of Nikos

Kazantzakis 169Late Minoan Cemetery

of Armeni 145children, travel with 56-8

Hania 72Iraklio 172websites 58

Chrissi Island 252churches & cathedrals 69

Agia Panagia 139, 116Agia Triada Church 217Agios Ionnis 134Agios Markos

Basilica 169Agios Minas

Cathedral 168Agios Spyridon

Church 119-21Chapel of the Metamor-

fosis Sotiros 103Church of Agios

Georgios 101Church of Agios

Ioannis 93Church of Agios

Nikolaos 69-72Church of Agios

Pavlos 93Church of Agios

Titos 169Church of Agios

Yiorgos 156Church of Our Lady 196Church of Panagia

Barotsiani 135Church of Panagia Kera

234-5, 36-7Church of St

Paraskevi 135Church of the

Panagia 103Church of the

Panayia 183Greek Orthodox

Cathedral 69City Walls (Iraklio) 169climate 16, 28, 29, 16coffee 21, 53-4consulates 292cooking

books 50courses 48

credit cards 293Cretan Brewery 102Cronus 280

culture 270-5books 270Minoan civilisation

276-80currency 16customs regulations 290cycling 25, 43-4, 298, see

also mountain bikingAlmyrida 84Georgioupoli 85Hania 73

Cyclops 129

DDaedalus 277Damnoni Beach 149dance 283-4, 282dangers, see danceDikteon Cave 12, 238Diktynna 108disabilities, travellers

with 290Diskos 206diving 39, 40, see also

snorkellingAgia Galini 153-4Agios Nikolaos 221Almyrida 84Bali 158Elounda 228Hania 73Hora Sfakion 89Ierapetra 250Myrtos 254Panormo 156Plakias 147Rethymno 121-2

drinks 26, 52-3, see also beer, raki, wine

language 303driving 306, see car

travel, motorcycle travel, road trips

EE4 walking trail 43, 99,

144, 42Easter 28economy 270-1El Greco 285Elafonisi 12, 99-100, 12,

160electricity 291Elos 114Elounda 227-32embassies 292emergencies 17

language 305

Episkopi 141etiquette 19, 55Etz Hayyim Synagogue 69Evans, Arthur 182events 28-9exchange rates 17

FFalasarna 113-14, 27family life 271ferry travel 21, 297-8,

299, 298festivals 28-9films 21Firkas Fortress 65fishing 154Fodele 183food 19, 26, 47-55, 212,

14, 49books 50cooking courses 48Cretan diet 50Cretan dishes 50-2etiquette & customs 55gardhoumia 48glossary 304kalitsounia 48kataïfi 128kokoretsi 48koulouria 48language 303-4olive oil 48sweets 52tavernas 14

fortressesCity Walls (Iraklio) 169Firkas Fortress 65Fortezzza (Rethymno)

119, 131Frangokastello 87-8, 215Kales Fortress 249Kazarma Fortress 242Koules Fortress 163-7Venetian Fort

(Paleohora) 96Venetian Fortifications

(Hania) 65fountains

Bembo Fountain 169Morosini Fountain 168Rimondi Fountain 121Venetian Fountain

(Spili) 146Fourfouras 139Fournes 103Fourni 184Frangokastello 87-8, 215frescoes 279

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

313IN

DEX G

- KGgalleries, see also

museumsMunicipal Art Gallery

(Hania) 69Municipal Art Gallery

(Iraklio) 168Museum of

Contemporary Art (Rethymno) 121

gardens, see parks & gardens

Gargadoros Beach 221Gavalohori 83Gavdos Island 100-3gay travellers 293Georgioupoli 85-6Gerakari 139Gialiskari Beach 101golf 45gorges 94

Agia Irini Gorge 93-4Agiofarango Gorge

205, 204Anydri Gorge 101Aradena Gorge 93Imbros Gorge 107, 106Klados Gorge 94Kotsifou Gorge 150Kritsa Gorge 235Mili Gorge 136Rouvas Gorge 204-5,

204Samaria Gorge 105,

106-7, 106Topolia Gorge 114Trypiti Gorge 94Zakros Gorge 246, 248

Gortyna 193-4, 215, 193, 214-15

Gournes 207Gournia 239, 230-1Gramvousa Peninsula

111-13Greek language 302-8Greek Mountaineering

Association 72

HHa Gorge 223Halikia Beach 96Hania 13, 64-81, 66-7,

13, 117accommodation 73-6activities 72-3beaches 72children, travel with 72drinking 77-9

emergencies 80entertainment 79events 73 festivals 73food 76-7medical services 80nightlife 77-9shopping 79-80sights 64-72tourist information 80tours 73travel to/from 80-1travel within 81websites 80

Hania region 59, 62-115, 63accommodation 62children, travel with 57food 62highlights 63itineraries 64, 70-1, 70

health 291Heraklion Archaeological

Museum 11, 163, 170-1, 171, 11, 200, 278

Hersonisos 207-9hiking 41-3

Agia Irini Gorge 93-4Agiofarango Gorge 205,

204Aradena Gorge 93E4 walking trail 43, 42Hania 72-3, 106-7, 106Imbros Gorge 107, 106Iraklio 169, 204-5, 204Kissamos (Kastelli) 109Klados Gorge 94Kritsa Gorge 235Mili Gorge 136Mt Gingilos 41Mt Psiloritis 144Paleohora 96Paleohora-Sougia

Coastal Walk 99Pelekita Cave 247Plakias 147Rethymno 122Rouvas Gorge

204-5, 204Samaria Gorge

106-7, 106 Spinalonga

Peninsula 232Topolia Gorge 114Trypiti Gorge 94Zakros Gorge 248

Hiona Beach 245Hislop, Victoria 233

historic buildings, see also archaeological sites, Minoan sites

Grand Arsenal 68-9Loggia 121Turkish Sebil 168Venetian Building

(Sitia) 242Venetian Loggia

(Iraklio) 169history 215, 256-69

Arab rule 261-3Battle of Crete 266-7books 263, 270Christianity 261Dorian rule 259-60EU membership 268Greek Civil War 267-8Greek War of

Independence 264-5Minoan civilisation 256-8Mycenaean civilisation

258-9Ottoman rule 264-5Roman rule 260Venetian rule 262, 263-4WWII 266-7

hitching 300-1holidays 294Hora Sfakion 89-91horse riding 45-6

Georgioupoli 85Hersonisos 207-8Pitsidia 199Plakias 147

hospitality 272-4Hrysi Akti Beach 72

IIcarus 277Icarus & Daedalus

Statues 153Ierapetra 249-53,

250, 36-7Imbros Gorge 107,

106, 32-3immigration 296Independence Day 28Innahorion Villages 114-15insurance 292internet access 292internet resources 17Iraklio 163-78, 166-7

accommodation 170-3activities 169beaches 169children, travel with 172drinking 174-5emergencies 176

entertainment 175food 173-4medical services 176nightlife 174-5shopping 175-6sights 163-9tourist information 176tours 170travel to/from 176-7travel within 177-8

Iraklio 60, 162-211, 164-5accommodation 162children, travel with 57food 162highlights 164-5itineraries 188-9, 188websites 169

Iraklio Wine Country 11, 185-90, 11, 200-1

Island, The 233Istro 238Itanos Beaches 245itineraries 30-7, 30, 32,

35, 36Hania region 64, 70-1, 70Iraklio region 188-9, 188Lasithi region 217, 222-3,

222Rethymno region 122-3,

138, 138

Jjewellery 277-8

Kkafeneio 275, 273Kalamafka 222Kalamaki 72Kalathas 81Kales Fortress 249Kambos 115Kamilari 202-3kandylakia 274, 273Kapetaniana 202Karave 101Karavostasi 158Karoumes Beach 247Kastri 101kataïfi 52, 212 212Katharo Plateau 237Kato Zakros 246-9Kavousi 268, 269kayaking 40

Almyrida 84Bali 158

Kazantzakis, Nikos 169, 190-1, 285-6

314

IND

EX K- M

Kazarma Fortress 242Kedrodasos Beach 100Kefali 114-15Kissamos (Kastelli) 109-11Knossos 9, 178-83, 179,

180-1, 2, 8-9, 180-1, 200, 258

Kolokytha 232Kolymbari 108komboloï 271Kommos 198-9Kotsifou Gorge 150Koules Fortress 163-7Kouremenos Beach 245Kournas 86Kourtaliotiko

Gorge 151, 130Koutsomatados 114Koutsounari Beach 253Koutsouras 253kri-kri 288Kritsa 234-6, 27Kritsotopoula 235Kroustas 237Kytroplatia Beach 221

LLake Kournas 86, 116-17Lake Votomos 191Lakki 103language 16, 19, 302-8Lasithi Plateau 12, 236-8,

12, 230Lasithi region 60, 216-54,

218-19accommodation 216children, travel with 57food 216highlights 218-19itineraries 217, 222-3,

222Lavrakas 102Laws of Gortyna 260,

214-15Lefka Ori 103-5legal matters 292Lendas 206-7LGBT+ travellers 293lighthouses

Gavdos Island 102Hania 69Lighthouse

(Rethymno) 121Ligres 152

Limani 158Linear A 280Linear B 279Lissos 93literature 285-6Livadi 158Loutra 206Loutro 91-2, 15, 30-1lyra 142, 281, 282

MMakrygialos 253Malia 209-11maps 293Marathi Beach 82Margarites 137-41, 131markets

Agora (Hania) 79Iraklio Central

Market 176Markopoulos, Yiannis 283Marmara Beach 93Maroulas 132Matala 196-8, 201measures 294Melidoni 141Meronas 139Meskla 103mezedhes 51Milatos 234Mili Gorge 136Milia Eco-Village 115military service 271Minoan civilisation

art 276-80books 276bull imagery 278culture 276-80history 256-8language 279, 280

Minoan sites, see also ar-chaeological sites, historic buildings

Agia Triada 195-6, 196Ancient Kydonia 72Anemospilia 184-5Fourni 184Gournia 239Kommos 198Late Minoan Cemetery

of Armeni 145Palace of Knossos 9,

178-83, 179, 180-1, 8-9, 180-1, 200, 258

Palace of Malia 209-10, 215, 210, 34-5

Petras Archaeological Site 240-2

Phaestos 194-5, 195Vathypetro 184Zakros Palace 246-7,

247Minos 277Minotaur 280mobile phones 294-5Mohlos 239-40, 212,

212-13monasteries

Kerá Kardiotissas Monastery 209

Monastery (Spili) 146Moni Agias Triadas 81Moni Agios Nikolaos 191Moni Arkadiou 15, 137,

15, 214Moni Gonias 108Moni Gouvernetou 82Moni Hrysoskalitissas

Monastery 100Moni Ioannou Erimiti 82Moni Odigitrias 199Moni Preveli 11, 151, 11Moni Toplou 215,

244, 214Moni Vrondisi 191

Monastiraki 139money 16, 17, 19, 290, 293Moni Arkadiou 15, 137,

15, 214Moni Preveli 11, 151, 11Moni Toplou 215,

244, 214Morosini Fountain 168mosques

Kara Musa Pasha Mosque 121

Mosque (Ierapetra) 249Mosque of Kioutsouk

Hasan 65Neratzes Mosque 121Sultan Bin Ibrahim

Mosque 119, 131motorcycle travel 297,

299-300mountain biking 43-4, see

also cyclingHani 72 Iraklio 170Malia 210Palekastro 245

mountaineering 44, 45Mt Gingilos 41Mt Psiloritis 144-5Mt Yiouhtas Peak

Sanctuary 184multiculturalism 274

museums 27, see also galleries

Archaeological Museum of Arhanes 184

Archaeological Museum of Kissamos 109

Archaeological Museum of Rethymno 119

Askyfou War Museum 87Byzantine & Post-

Byzantine Collection 65

Chromonastiri 136Cretan Folk Museum 237Cretan House Folklore

Museum 69El Greco museum 183Eleftherios Venizelos

Residence & Museum 72

Folk Museum 217Folk Museum of

Palekastro 245Folk Museum of Spili 146Folklore Museum

(Gavalohori) 83Folklore Museum of

Zaros 191Folklore Museum

(Sitia) 242Greek National Football

Museum 69Hania Archaeological

Museum 65Heraklion Archaeological

Museum 11, 163, 170-1, 171, 11, 200, 278

Historical & Folk Art Museum 121

Historical Museum & Archives 69

Historical Museum of Crete 167

Lychnostatis Open Air Museum 207

Maritime Museum of Crete 65

Military Museum of Chromonastiri 136-7

Museum of Ancient Eleutherna 20, 140

Museum of Christian Art 168

Museum of Cretan Ethnology 198

Museum of Grylios 143Museum of National

Resistance 104Museum of the Acritans

of Europe 96Museum of Wooden

Sculptures 141-2Myrtos Museum 253-4

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

315IN

DEX M

-V Natural History

Museum 168-9Nikos Kazantzakis

Museum 190-1Paleontological

Museum 121Permanent Collection of

Ancient & Traditional Shipbuilding 69

Sitia Archaeological Museum 240

Zakros Natural History Museum 247

music 21, 281-3instruments 142, 281

Myrthios 150-1Myrtia 190-1Myrtos 253-4myths 277, 280

NNea Hora Beach 72newspapers 294

Oolive oil 48

factories 88, 141Olous 232Omalos 103-4one-eyed monster 129opening hours 293-4Orthi Ammos Beach 87Orthodox Easter 28ouzo 54

PPahia Ammos 95painting 284-5palaces

Agia Triada 195-6, 196Gournia 239Palace of Knossos 9, 178-

83, 179, 180-1, 8-9, 180-1, 200, 258

Palace of Malia 209-10, 215, 210, 34-5

Phaestos 194-5, 195Zakros Palace 246-7,

247Palekastro 245-6Paleohora 95-9, 96, 116-17Panormo 155-7Pappadiana 114parks & gardens

Botanical Park 103Garden Arkoudenas 136Maravel Garden 145Municipal Park

(Rethymno) 121

passports 296Perivolia 114-15Phaestos 194-5, 195, 34-5phonecards 295photography 294Pitsidia 199Plaka 232-4Plakias 147-50planning, see also

individual regionsaccommodation 22-3activities 38-46budget 292budgeting 17calendar of events 28-9children, travel with 56-8Crete basics 16-17first-time visitors 18-19internet resources 17itineraries 30-7repeat visitors 20-1travel seasons 16, 28, 29

plants 288Polyrrinia 110Porta Guora 121postal services 294Potamos 102pottery 276-7Preveli 151-2Preveli Beach 11, 151,

2, 130Psyhro 238public holidays 294Pyrgos 223

Rrailways

Georgioupoli 85Panormo 156

raki 54Red Beach 196religion 274-5Rethymno 9, 119-34,

124-5, 9accommodation 123-6drinking 128-9emergencies 133entertainment 129-32events 123 festivals 123food 127-8internet access 133medical services 133nightlife 128-9 shopping 132-3sights 119-21tourist information 134

tours 122travel to/from 134travel within 134

Rethymno region 60, 118-59, 120

accommodation 118children, travel with 57food 118highlights 120itineraries 122, 138-9,

138websites 123

Rhodanthe 235Rimondi Fountain 121road trips

Amari Valley 138-9, 138Iraklio Wine Country

188-9, 188Lasithi region 222-3,

222southwestern Hania

70-1, 70rock climbing 45, 122Rodopou Peninsula 108-9Rouvas Gorge 204-5, 204

Ssafety 17, 39, 300-1sailing 40-1, 73, 221, 227Samaria Gorge 13, 105,

106-7, 106, 13Sarakinas Gorge 223Sarakiniko 101sculpture 277-8sea kayaking 40Seitan Limania 82, 5Sfakia 86-103Sfinari 114shopping 305

language 305Sitia 240-4, 241Sivas 199-202skiing 121Skinakas Observatory 144smoking 294snorkelling 39

Almyrida 84Bali 158Hania 73Panormo 156Plakias 147

Souda 149Sougia 92-5Spili 145-7Spinalonga Island 10, 233,

10, 231Spinalonga Peninsula 232

stand-up paddling (SUP) 40

Almyrida 84Bali 158Hania 73

Stavros 81Sweetwater Beach 89

Ttaxis 301tea 53-4telephone services 16,

294-5Thaloni Retreat 202, 23Theriso 104-5Theseus 280Thrapsano 191Thronos 139time 295tipping 19, 295toilets 295Topolia Gorge 114tourism 272-4tourist information 295tours, see also boat cruises

Agios Nikolaos 221Bali 158Balos 112Hania 73Iraklio 170Iraklio Wine Country 187Kissamos (Kastelli) 109Knossos 182Panormo 156Plakias 148Rethymno 122

train travel 297transport 24-5travel to/from Crete 296-8travel within Crete 24-5,

298-301Triopetra 152-3Tripiti 102Trypiti Gorge 94Tzermiado 237

Vvacations 294Vaï 14, 244, 14, 160-1Vamos 84-5Varkotopo 158Vasiliki 223Vathypetro 184Vatsiana 102Venetian Fort

(Paleohora) 96Venetian Fortifications

(Hania) 65

316

IND

EX V-Z

Venetian Fountain (Spili) 146

Venetian Harbour (Hania) 65

Venetian Harbour (Rethymno) 119, 131

vineyardsBoutari Winery 187Diamantakis Winery 186Digenakis Winery 186Domaine Gavalas 187Douloufakis Winery 186Idaia Winery 186Klados Winery 156Lyrarakis 186Manousakis Winery 78Minos-Miliarakis

Winery 187

Rhous Winery 187Silva Wines 186Stilianou Winery 186

visas 16, 295Vizari 139volunteering 295Voulgaro 114Voulisma Beach 238Vrissi Beach 89Vryses 86

Wwater parks, see also

amusement parksAcqua Plus 208Limnoupolis 72Watercity 207

weather 16, 28, 29websites

books 274children 58Iraklio 169Rethymno 123

weights 294windsurfing 40

Almyrida 84 Palekastro 245Paleohora 96

wine 21, 52-3wine country, see Iraklio

Wine Countrywineries, see vineyardswomen in Crete 275women travellers 295

XXerokambos 249, 230-1Xylouris, Giorgos 142Xylouris, Nikos 142,

143, 283

Yyoga 46, 89, 245

ZZakros 246-9Zakros Palace 246-7, 247Zaros 191-3Zeus 280Zoniana 141

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

317N

OTES

318

NO

TES

319

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

U-Bahn/Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationS-Bahn/Subway stationTaxi

Train station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

T-bane/Tunnelbana station

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541537th edition – February 2020ISBN 978 1 78657 579 1© Lonely Planet 2020 Photographs © as indicated 202010 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSAndrea Schulte-PeeversLasithi Born and raised in Germany and educated in London and at UCLA, An-drea has travelled the distance to the moon and back in her visits to some 75 countries. She has earned her living as a professional travel writer for over two decades and authored or contributed to nearly 100 Lonely Planet titles as well as to newspapers, magazines and websites around the world. Andrea’s desti-nation expertise is especially strong when it comes to Germany, Dubai and the

UAE, Crete and the Caribbean Islands. She makes her home in Berlin. Andrea also wrote the Plan, Understand and Survival Guide sections.

Trent HoldenRethymno An Australian-based writer, Trent has worked for Lonely Planet since 2005. He’s covered 30 plus guidebooks across Asia, Africa and Australia. With a penchant for megacities, Trent is in his element when assigned to cover a nation’s capital – the more chaotic the better – to unearth cool bars, art, street food and underground subculture. On the flipside, he also writes books on idyllic tropical islands across Asia, in between going on safari to national parks in Africa

and the subcontinent. When not travelling, Trent works as a freelance editor and reviewer, and spends all his money catching live gigs. You can catch him on Twitter @hombreholden

Kate MorganHania Having worked for Lonely Planet for over a decade now, Kate has been fortunate enough to cover plenty of ground working as a travel writer on des-tinations such as Shanghai, Japan, India, Russia, Zimbabwe, the Philippines and Phuket. She has done stints living in London, Paris and Osaka, but these days is based in one of her favourite regions in the world – Victoria, Australia. In between travelling the world and writing about it, Kate enjoys spending time at

home working as a freelance editor.

Kevin RaubIraklio An Atlanta native, Kevin started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing and has contributed to more than 95 Lonely Planet guides, focused mainly on Brazil, Chile, Colombia, USA, India, the Caribbean and Portugal. Kevin also contributes to a variety of travel magazines in both the USA and UK. Along the way, the self-confessed hophead is in constant search of wildly

high IBUs in local beers. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram @RaubOnTheRoad.

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