©lonely planet publications pty ltd get the right guides for your...

Get the right guides for your trip

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AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011%03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111

USA 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607%510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572

UK 186 Cit Rd L d EC1V 2NT

Looking for other travel resources?

LONELYPLANET.COMFor travel information, advice, tips & digital chapters

MAGAZINEFor travel stories, inspiration & ideaslonelyplanet.com/magazine

EBOOKSGuidebooks for your readerlonelyplanet.com/ebooks

APPSLocation-based guides for the streetlonelyplanet.com/mobile

COUNTRY & CITY• The original• Comprehensive• Adventurous

DISCOVER• Best-of• Photo-packed• Inspirational

ENCOUNTER• Pocket-sized• Easy-to-use• Highlights

NATIONAL PARK• Detailed itineraries• Hikes and drives• Family-friendly

REGIONAL• Cultural• Day trips & itineraries• In-depth

Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally

responsible, socially beneficial and

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Celeste BrashEmily Matchar, Karla Zimmerman

Newfoundland& Labrador

p162

Prince EdwardIsland

p133New

Brunswickp90

Nova Scotiap28

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings

and insider tips

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A-Z .................. 248Transport ........................ 261Index ................................ 272 Map Legend .................... 279

YOUR AT-A-GLANCE REFERENCE

How to get around, get a room,

stay safe, say hello

ON THE ROAD

Accommodations In this part of Canada, you’ll be choosing from a wide range of B& Bs, chain motels, hotels and hostels. Provincial tourist o ces (see Tourist Information, p 258 ) publish comprehensive directories of accommodations, and take bookings online or from visi-tor information centers.

Seasons » Peak season is summer,

from mid-June to early September, when prices are highest.

» It’s best to book ahead during summer and dur-ing holidays (see Public Holidays, p 256 ) and major events (see Month by Month,

hostels and simple hotels and B&Bs where you’ll likely share a bathroom. Rates rarely exceed $100 for a double room.

» Midrange accommoda-tions, such as most B&Bs, inns, motels and some ho-tels, generally o er the best value for money. Expect to pay between $100 and $180 for a comfortable, decent-sized double room with a private bathroom and TV.

» Top-end accommodations (more than $180 per double) o er an international stand-ard of amenities, including tness and business centers

and other upmarket facilities.

Amenities » Most properties o er

i i It’ t i ll

Discounts » In winter, prices can plum-

met by as much as 50%. » Membership in the Ameri-

can Automobile Association (AAA) or an associated automobile association, American Association of Retired Persons (AARP) or other organizations also yields modest savings (usu-ally 10%).

» Check the hotel websites listed throughout this book for special online rates. The usual suspects also o er discounted room prices throughout Canada: Priceline (www.priceline.com) Hotwire (www.hotwire.com) Expedia (www.expedia.com) Travelocity (www.travelocity.com) Tripadvisor (www.tripadvisor.com)

B&Bs » Bed & Breakfast Online

(www.bbcanada.com) is the main booking agency for properties nationwide.

» In Canada, B&Bs (known as gîtes in French) are es-sentially converted private homes whose owners live on site. People who like privacy may nd B&Bs too intimate, as walls are rarely soundproof and it’s usual to

Directory A-Z

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247

NEXTPAGETOP EXPERIENCES MAP

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Get the right guides for your trip

twitter.com/lonelyplanet

facebook.com/lonelyplanet

lonelyplanet.com/newsletter

STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact

AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011%03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111

USA 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607%510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572

UK 186 City Rd, London, EC1V 2NT%020 7106 2100, fax 020 7106 2101

Looking for other travel resources?

LONELYPLANET.COMFor travel information, advice, tips & digital chapters

MAGAZINEFor travel stories, inspiration & ideaslonelyplanet.com/magazine

EBOOKSGuidebooks for your readerlonelyplanet.com/ebooks

APPSLocation-based guides for the streetlonelyplanet.com/mobile

COUNTRY & CITY• The original• Comprehensive• Adventurous

DISCOVER• Best-of• Photo-packed• Inspirational

ENCOUNTER• Pocket-sized• Easy-to-use• Highlights

NATIONAL PARK• Detailed itineraries• Hikes and drives• Family-friendly

REGIONAL• Cultural• Day trips & itineraries• In-depth

Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally

responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world’s forests.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

10 Top Experiences ........ 4Welcome to Nova Scotia, New Brunswick & Prince Edward Island ............................... 9Need to Know ................. 10What’s New ..................... 12If You Like ........................ 13Month by Month ............. 16Itineraries ........................ 20Regions at a Glance ....... 24

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions

to help you put together your perfect trip

UNDERSTAND Nova Scotia, New Brunswick & Prince Edward Island Today ............................... 218History ............................. 220Rockin’ the Atlantic Coast ............................... 227What’s for Supper .......... 231Get Out! ........................... 236Lay of the Land ............... 241

Getting Creative Des ite recent progress, these provinces still have the highest unemloyment rates in Canada, with Newfoundland leading the ack at

around 14%. At present it’s a conservative government that s guringout how to deal with the situation; each of the provinces is led by

n line with Canada’s current fed th l ti l i Thi ti

belief systems(% of population)

Roman Catholic

65

United Church

13

Anglican9.5

Other8

No religion3.5

if Atlantic Canadawere 100 people

32 would be Scottish28 would be English23 would be Irish

14 would be French2 would be Aboriginal1 would be African

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Critters of the Great NorthWhether you come for a glimpse of caribou, whales or moose, AtlanticCanada will not disappoint the wildlife enthusiast. Many people travelto the region to see the incredible numbers of seabirds and whales thatcan be spotted from coastal blu s or on whale-watch trips, but some of the most unusual wildlife is seen in the far north where few travelersjourney.

The plants and animals of Atlantic Canada are even more amazingwhen you realize that the entire region was completely buried in iceonly 20,000 years ago and was not accessible for life until about 10,000years ago. Where all these critters came from and how they got here soquickly is anybody’s guess!

nimalsIf ou needed one single reason to visit Atlantic Canada, it might bethe world-class encounters with whales that gather in these food-rich

aters. Around 22 species of whale and porpoise can be seen on whaleatch tours which are o ered from countless coastal harbors. Lea

mountain biking, bird-watching, hiking year-round (p 119 )

strolling, clam digging, bicycling, skiing, kayaking, bird-watching

year-round (p 127 )

bird-watching, beach walking, swimming, picnicking May–Sep (p 149 )

bird-watching Mar–Aug (p 182 )

kayaking, shing, camping mid-May–mid-Oct (p 189 )

bird-watching, whale watching Jun–Aug (p 178 )

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10 TOP EXPERIENCES

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“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE

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217GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so you

can make sense of what you see

lifetime. Want more inHead online to lonelypcom/thorntree to chat travelers.

One Week to 10 DaysEssential Nova Scotia

Soak up some music and culture in Halifax then travel to nearby Peggyfor position to snap the most photographed lighthouse in the world, o

subdued experience picnicking in equally pretty Prospect. Don’t forget yin Mahone Bay, where the sun shines bright on great craft shopping andMove on slightly south to Lunenburg, a World Heritage site known for itbuildings, Bluenose schooner and lobstering tours. The Kejimkujik Seaprovides miles of unspoiled white beaches (and maybe seals), while its big bkujik National Park lies inland and is a prime place to oat a canoe and

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Maitland

Halifax

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KejimkujikNational Park

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eafoodyou’re a seafood lover

th a weakness for shell-h, then you’ve come to the ght place. Sweet Atlantic bsters are ubiquitous and her underwater delicacies ch as Digby scallops and alpeque oysters are world-mous for their quality.bster Suppers A Maritime afood feast found mostly in va Scotia and Prince Edward and (PEI), best taken in urches and town halls (p 234 )

ip to Shore The freshest crit-s of the sea are prepared by I’s ‘shell sh shaman’ (p 155 )

yal Fundy Seafood Market ck into this shmonger’s shop

fresh-from-the-wharf Digby allops and more (p 58 )

rseman Restaurant & Art llery Put on rubber boots to

Wine & Spirit Tasting Hard to believe, but Nova Scotia’s Annapolis Valley has the same latitude as Bordeaux, France and was probably the rst place that wine grapes were grown in the New World. Other ar-eas produce harder stu : whisky, vodka and good ’ole fashioned moonshine. Annapolis Valley & Bear River regions Wineries are popping up everywhere through these two adjacent areas perfect for touring (p 55 )

Glenora Inn & Distillery Canada’s only single malt whisky is produced here; tour the distillery and take a swig of the spirits (p 76 )

Rossignol Winery Special-izes in fruit wines including an

Historic Leif Erikssonably the rst set foot in tin Newfounding the beginregion’s rich Etory. Folks gedressing up inand acting thing the sites to Louisbourg The region’s historicasize and authentirecreated sites mlike you time-warcentury (p 86 )

L’Anse aux MeadHistorical Site Sis where the VikinYup and it’s just ahoped it would be

King’s Landing HSettlement Woo

If You Like…

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Lobster Suppers, June

Whale Watching, June

Stan Rogers Folk Festival, August

Celtic Colours, October

Ceilidhs, July

February This is not a popular month to visit this part of Canada unless you’re looking for deep snow and hard ice. Expect a warm welcome during one of the coldest months of the year.

�2 Skiing Atlantic Canada’s

best skiing is at Marble Mountain in Corner Brook, Newfoundland, open from December to April. It’s chal-lenging terrain but lift lines are short and the snow is plentiful.

trees are sprouting new leaves but if you visit, you’ll be enjoying it all with very few other people around.

�zMi-Carême Mid-Lent, usu-

ally in March or April, is marked in the Acadian town of Chéticamp by get-ting in disguise and visit-ing neighborhood homes to see if anyone can guess who you are. Meanwhile music, feasts and enter-tainment are found around town.

June Dodge the crowds by showing up in June when the weather can be sunny but brisk and wildflowers are blooming. In some areas many tourist-oriented attractions may still be shut or keep low-season hours.

�2Whale Watching Whales begin to be

seen in the Bay of Fundy and o the coast of New-foundland this month then hang around to feed till around October or Novem-

Month by Month

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Look out for these icons:

o Our author’s recommendation S A green or

sustainable option F No payment required

NOVA SCOTIA . . . . . . .28HALIFAX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32Dartmouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43Eastern Shore Beaches . . . 44Sambro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44Prospect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45Peggy’s Cove . . . . . . . . . . . . .45SOUTH SHORE . . . . . . . . . . 45Chester . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46Mahone Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . 46Lunenburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48Liverpool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50Kejimkujik National Park . . 51Shelburne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53Barrington to West Pubnico . . . . . . . . . . . .54Yarmouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54ANNAPOLIS VALLEY & FRENCH SHORE . . . . . . . . . 55Cape St Mary to Meteghan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56Church Point to St Bernard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56Digby Neck . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57Digby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58Bear River . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59Annapolis Royal & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60Kentville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62North of Highway 1 . . . . . . .62Wolfville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63Grand Pré . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65Windsor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66CENTRAL NOVA SCOTIA . . 66Shubenacadie . . . . . . . . . . . 66Maitland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66

Truro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67Economy to Five Islands . . 68Parrsboro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68Cape d’Or . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70Cape Chignecto Provincial Park & Advocate Harbour . .70Joggins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71Amherst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71SUNRISE TRAIL . . . . . . . . . . 71Wallace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71Wentworth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71Tatamagouche . . . . . . . . . . . 71Pictou . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72New Glasgow . . . . . . . . . . . . .74Antigonish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74Cape George . . . . . . . . . . . . .75CAPE BRETON ISLAND . . . 75Port Hastings . . . . . . . . . . . .76Ceilidh Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76Cabot Trail & Cape Breton Highlands National Park . . . . . . . . . . . .77Bras d’Or Lake Scenic Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82North Sydney . . . . . . . . . . . 84Sydney . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84Glace Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86Louisbourg . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86EASTERN SHORE . . . . . . . . 87Guysborough . . . . . . . . . . . .87Canso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .87Sherbrooke . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88Taylor Head Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . . 89Tangier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89Jedore Oyster Pond . . . . . . 89

NEW BRUNSWICK . . .90FREDERICTON . . . . . . . . . . . 93UPPER ST JOHN RIVER VALLEY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98King’s Landing Historical Settlement . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98Hartland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99Florenceville & Around . . 100Mt Carleton & the Tobique Valley . . . . . . 100Grand Falls. . . . . . . . . . . . . .102Edmundston . . . . . . . . . . . .103WESTERN FUNDY SHORE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103St Stephen . . . . . . . . . . . . .103St Andrews By-The-Sea. . .104FUNDY ISLES . . . . . . . . . . . 108Deer Island . . . . . . . . . . . . .108Campobello Island . . . . . . .109Grand Manan Island . . . . . 110New River Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . . 113SAINT JOHN . . . . . . . . . . . . 113EASTERN FUNDY SHORE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119St Martins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119Fundy National Park . . . . . 119Alma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120Cape Enrage & Mary’s Point . . . . . . . . . . . . 121Hopewell Rocks . . . . . . . . . 121SOUTHEASTERN NEW BRUNSWICK . . . . . . . . . . . . 122Moncton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122Sackville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125Fort Beauséjour National Historic Site . . . . . . . . . . . .125

On the Road

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

NORTHUMBERLAND SHORE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125Cape Jourimain . . . . . . . . .125Shediac . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126Bouctouche . . . . . . . . . . . . .126Kouchibouguac National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 127MIRAMICHI AREA . . . . . . . 128Miramichi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128Miramichi River Valley . . . .129NORTHEASTERN NEW BRUNSWICK . . . . . . . . . . . . 129Tracadie-Sheila . . . . . . . . . .130Caraquet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130Campbellton . . . . . . . . . . . . 131

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND . . . . . . . . . . . 133CHARLOTTETOWN . . . . . . 137EASTERN PEI . . . . . . . . . . . 143Orwell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .144Point Prim . . . . . . . . . . . . . .144Wood Islands . . . . . . . . . . . .144Murray River & Around . . .144Panmure Island . . . . . . . . .144Montague & Around . . . . .145Georgetown . . . . . . . . . . . . .146Souris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146East Point & Around . . . . . 147St Peter’s to Mt Stewart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147CENTRAL PEI . . . . . . . . . . . 148Victoria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148Prince Edward Island National Park . . . . .149

Dalvay by the Sea. . . . . . . . 151Brackley Beach . . . . . . . . . . 151Rustico . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .152New Glasgow . . . . . . . . . . . .152St Ann. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .153North Rustico . . . . . . . . . . .153Cavendish . . . . . . . . . . . . . .153New London & Park Corner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155WESTERN PEI . . . . . . . . . . . 156Summerside . . . . . . . . . . . . 157Région Évangéline . . . . . . .159Tyne Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . .159Lennox Island . . . . . . . . . . .159Tignish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .160North Cape . . . . . . . . . . . . .160West Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . .160

NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR . . . . . . . . 162ST JOHN’S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166North of St John’s . . . . . . . 177West of St John’s . . . . . . . . 177South of St John’s . . . . . . . 177AVALON PENINSULA . . . . 177Southeastern Avalon Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178Conception Bay . . . . . . . . .180Trinity Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181Cape Shore . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181EASTERN NEWFOUNDLAND . . . . . . . 182Trinity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .182Bonavista . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .184Burin Peninsula . . . . . . . . .185

ST-PIERRE & MIQUELON . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187CENTRAL NEWFOUNDLAND . . . . . . . 189Terra Nova National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . 189Gander . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .190Twillingate Island & New World Island . . . . . . . .190Fogo Island & Change Islands . . . . . . . . . .192Lewisporte . . . . . . . . . . . . . .193Grand Falls-Windsor. . . . . .193Central South Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .194NORTHERN PENINSULA . . . . . . . . . . . . 194Deer Lake . . . . . . . . . . . . . .194Gros Morne National Park . . . . . . . . . . .195Port au Choix . . . . . . . . . . .198St Barbe to L’Anse aux Meadows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .199St Anthony . . . . . . . . . . . . .201WESTERN NEWFOUNDLAND . . . . . . . 202Corner Brook . . . . . . . . . . 202Port aux Basques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206SOUTH COAST OUTPORTS . . . . . . . . . . . . .209LABRADOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210Labrador Straits . . . . . . . . .210Northern Coast . . . . . . . . .214Central Labrador . . . . . . . .215Labrador West . . . . . . . . . .215

Itiner-aries

Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travelers.

One Week to 10 DaysEssential Nova Scotia

Soak up some music and culture in Halifax then travel to nearby Peggy’s Cove. Jostle for position to snap the most photographed lighthouse in the world, or have a more

subdued experience picnicking in equally pretty Prospect. Don’t forget your sunscreen in Mahone Bay, where the sun shines bright on great craft shopping and sea kayaking. Move on slightly south to Lunenburg, a World Heritage site known for its colorful boxy buildings, Bluenose schooner and lobstering tours. The Kejimkujik Seaside Adjunct provides miles of unspoiled white beaches (and maybe seals), while its big brother Kejim-kujik National Park lies inland and is a prime place to fl oat a canoe and drift through the woods. Cross the province to Annapolis Royal to stay at a heritage bed and break-fast, explore its fort by day and graveyard by night. The next day visit the wineries of Bear River and around Wolfville before stopping to wolf down a meal at a fi ne restaurant. Lastly explore the Fundy coast by hiking around Scots Bay or go to Maitland to get right in and raft the tidal bore.

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Two to Three WeeksCabot & Viking Trails

Spend a couple days in Halifax enjoying lively bars and a nonstop music scene then hit the road up the Atlantic Coast. Stop for a chilly surf at Lawrencetown Beach or

a hike through pine forest to a spectacular white-sand beach at Taylor Head Provincial Park. Visit the historical village at Sherbrook then either cut up Hwy 7 for a shortcut to Cape Breton Island or, with an extra day or two, continue on the coast to the isolated, windswept village of Canso and the more sheltered picture-perfect hamlet of Guysbor-ough. Just after arriving on Cape Breton from the causeway, veer left towards Hwy 30 and stop in at one of the many ceilidh music gatherings along this route. Hook up with the Cabot Trail, at Chéticamp, a deeply Acadian town. Aah, now you’re getting your money’s worth. Next you can watch whales or chant with monks at the Tibetan monastery in Pleasant Bay and look for moose and nesting bald eagles in Cape Breton Highlands National Park. It’s always nice to stretch your legs with a hike at Meat Cove. And don’t forget to get your art fi x at the studios along the St Ann’s Loop before heading over to Baddeck to learn everything you ever wanted to know about Alexander Graham Bell at the town’s fabulous museum. From here take a jaunt east to Louisbourg to visit the mas-sive, windy restored French Fort complete with costumed thespians and activities to bring you back to the 18th century. Stop at the Miner’s Museum in Glace Bay before arriving in industrial North Sydney for the ferry to Newfoundland.

It’s a six-hour sail over the sometimes-rough swell of the Cabot Strait to Port aux Basques. Alight and drive north to Gros Morne National Park, rich with mountain hikes, sea-kayak tours, fjords and weird rock formations. Take the Viking Trail from here to its awe-inspiring endpoint: L’Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site, North America’s fi rst settlement. Leif Eriksson and his Viking pals homesteaded the place 1000 years ago, and it probably looked much the same then as it does now. After coming all this way, you too will feel like an Atlantic explorer.

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Port auxBasques

Glace Bay

Halifax

Gros MorneNational Park

Cape Breton HighlandsNational Park

L'Anse aux MeadowsNational Historic Site

Taylor HeadProvincial Park

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10 Days to Two WeeksBay of Fundy Tidal Tour

Experience the dramatic Fundy tides and its wildlife on this loop that could be tackled from Maine, USA. Cross the bridge to Campobello Island, the childhood home of

32nd US president Franklin D Roosevelt, from Lubec, Maine then visit the Roosevelt’s home that’s now a fascinating museum. Take the car ferry to fi sherman-funky Deer Is-land to check out Old Sow, the world’s second-largest natural tidal whirlpool, before boarding another ferry that shuttles you to the mainland. Drive north to gritty yet cosmo-politan Saint John, to fi ll up on fi ne dining, and warm up your hiking boots at Irving Nature Park to see hundreds of birds and possibly seals. Spend the next few days really breaking your boots in throughout Fundy National Park and its extensive coastal trails. Continue north to Cape Enrage to take a tour of the lighthouse, sea kayak or rappel down the rock cliff s that meet the rise and fall of the powerful tides. Move on to the bizarre Hopewell Rocks formations, a must-see, but with the hundreds of visitors you might be a little disappointed after the more pristine experience at Cape Enrage.

Now it’s time to change provinces. Drive across the border to Nova Scotia and down the coast of Chignecto Bay to Joggins to see the Unesco Heritage fossil cliff s. Continue along driftwood-strewn Chignecto Bay to stop for lunch in Advocate Harbour then move onto Parrsboro to look for semiprecious stones on the beach. Enjoy the views of the Cobequid Bay tides, which can change up to a foot per minute till you reach Maitland, where you can get into infl atable dinghies for an exhilarating rafting adventure on the tidal bore. Get your hiking boots on again around Scots Bay where you’ll be rewarded with some of the best views of the tides on this entire route. Reward your physical exertion in Digby where you can dine on succulent scallops and explore Digby Neck, home to the region’s most spectacular whale watching and even more hiking trails. From Digby, take the car ferry back to Saint John, New Brunswick to complete the loop.

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One WeekFoodie Loop

Eat and drink your way through Hali-fax, then drive to the lively town of Pic-

tou to take the car ferry to Wood Islands, Prince Edward Island. Spend your fi rst day in Canada’s cutest province exploring the east; stop at Rossignol Winery, quirky distilleries and stroll on gorgeous Basin Head Beach. Dine in St Peters before moving on to Charlottetown where you can base yourself for the next few days as you explore the central part of the prov-ince. Learn about Anne of Green Gables in Cavendish, gorge on lobster in New Glasgow, oysters in Malpeque and enjoy Charlottetown itself by dining at Lot 30.

Spend a night or two in Summerside to explore western PEI with a drive up the sce-nic west coast through Acadian villages to lighthouse vistas. Gape at the giant wind-mills of North Cape before looping back on the east coast, stopping to learn about Mi’kmaq culture on lovely Lennox Island.

Take the Confederation Bridge to drive back to Halifax via the bucolic wine region around Tatamagouche or, with more time, head down the Fundy Coast to Parrsboro as described in the Bay of Fundy Tidal Tour.

Eight DaysMaritime Drive-Through

Short on time but want to see as much as possible? Enjoy Halifax for a day be-

fore swinging down to snap a few photos at Peggy’s Cove, then stop for the night in World Heritage–listed Lunenburg and spoil yourself with dinner at Fleur de Sel. The next day cross via Bridgewater up Hwy 8 stopping for a day hike or a paddle in Ke-jimkujic National Park then stay in An-napolis Royal and take the town’s famous nighttime graveyard tour. Take a short drive to Digby, perhaps enjoying a scallop lunch, then take the ferry to Saint John, New Brunswick. Stay or camp in Fundy National Park or in adorable St Martins, spending the next day hiking and continu-ing up the Fundy Coast to view the tides at Cape Enrage and Hopewell Rocks. The next day drive across the Confedera-tion Bridge into PEI and Charlottetown. Explore Anne’s Land around Cavendish, have a lobster supper then take a tour of PEI’s east coast the following day before taking the car ferry back to Nova Scotia. From here it takes an hour and 45 minutes to drive back to Halifax.

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2 3

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Celeste Brash Coordinating author, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island ‘So this is where peo-ple from Tahiti go on vacation?’ is a question often asked of Celeste – who’s proud to say that she’s been an Anne of Green Gables fan since she was nine years old – during her voyages through the Maritime provinces. Lighthouses, blueberries and lupine are a far cry from the palm trees, coconuts and hibiscus of her Polynesian island home of 15 years, but even with a tropical bias Celeste

thinks that Atlantic lobster is the best food on Earth. Right after this trip to Canada, Celeste moved from the tropics to a more Maritime latitude in Oregon to start temperate adventures in-volving snow, salmon and blackberries. You can fi nd out about her travels for this book and for several other Lonely Planet titles, including Southeast Asia on a Shoestring and South Pacific, at www.celestebrash.com.

Emily Matchar New Brunswick Though American by birth, Emily has long suff ered acute Canada-envy (and not just for the healthcare, either!). She’s had some of her best adven-tures in the True North, from paddling with seals off the coast of British Columbia to eating poutine at 3am in Montréal to hanging out with canoe-makers in rural New Brunswick. These days, she makes her home quite a bit further south, in Chapel Hill, North Carolina, where she writes for a variety of magazines, newspa-

pers and websites. She’s contributed to half a dozen Lonely Planet guides, including USA, Mexico and Trips: The Carolinas, Georgia and the South.

Karla Zimmerman Newfoundland & Labrador Karla is an Honorary Newfoundlander, with a rum-soaked certifi cate to prove it. During her years covering the province, she has paddled by icebergs, come nose-to-beak with puffi ns, hiked in polar bear terri-tory and driven by most of Newfoundland’s 120,000 moose. She’s visited Dildo, Come by Chance and Heart’s Delight, and intends to get to Jerry’s Nose one day soon.When she’s not north of the border, Karla lives in Chicago, where she

writes travel features for newspapers, books, magazines and websites. She has authored or co-authored several Lonely Planet guidebooks to the USA, Canada, Caribbean and Europe.

Read more about Celeste at:lonelyplanet.com/members/celestebrash

Read more about Emily at:lonelyplanet.com/members/emilymatchar

Read more about Karla at:lonelyplanet.com/members/karlazimmerman

OUR WRITERS

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9832nd edition – Apr 2011ISBN 978 1 74179 171 6© Lonely Planet 2011 Photographs © as indicated 201110 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

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