twitter.com/lonelyplanet

facebook.com/lonelyplanet

lonelyplanet.com/newsletter

STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact

AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011%03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111

USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607%510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572

UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ%020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112

Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world’s forests.

Get the right guides for your trip

Looking for other travel resources?

LONELYPLANET.COMFor travel information, advice, tips & digital chapters

MAGAZINEFor travel stories, inspiration & ideaslonelyplanet.com/magazine

EBOOKSGuidebooks for your readerlonelyplanet.com/ebooks

APPSLocation-based guides for the streetlonelyplanet.com/mobile

COUNTRY & MULTICOUNTRY• The original• Comprehensive• Adventurous

PHRASEBOOKS

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Celeste Brash Jean-Bernard Carillet

p203ArchipelagoThe Gambier

p203The Australs

p174The Marquesas

p151The Tuamotus

p143Maupiti p126

Bora Bora

p110Taha'a

Ra'iatea &

Huahinep98

p77Mo'orea p48

Tahiti

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A–Z ................. 236Transport ........................ 246Language ........................ 253Index ................................ 265Map Legend .................... 271

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

ON THE ROAD

Tahitian and French are the o cial languages of French Polynesia, but Tahitian is spoken more than it is written. Although French dominates, many of those working in the tourist industry can speak some English; once you venture to the more remote and less touristy islands where the Tahitian dia-lects are spoken, it’s de nitely useful to know some French.

TAHITIANTahitian (also known as Maohi) belongs to the group of Polynesian languages that

cludes Samoan, Maori, Hawaiian, Raroton-and Tongan. There are several dialects of

an. The spread of Christianity through olynesia helped make the variety

hiti the most widespread.ounds are also found in

pronounced as fol-

Welcome. Maeva, mThank you. M uruuru.Excuse me./Sorry. E’e, aue hoNo problem./Don’t worry. Aita pe’apeYes. E, ’oia.No. Aita.Pardon? E aha?How are you? E ahaMy name is ... To’country I don’t understand. Good luck! I’m ill.

Language

PAGE

46

PAGE

235

tahiti-french-polynesia-9-cover.indd 2 24/05/2012 3:48:26 PM00-title page-tah9.indd 100-title page-tah9.indd 1 24/05/2012 3:55:06 PM24/05/2012 3:55:06 PM

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Tahiti & French Polynesia ........... 2

Map .................................. 415 Top Experiences ........ 6Need to Know ................. 14If You Like ........................ 16 Month by Month ............. 19Itineraries ........................ 22Which Island? ................. 26Diving ............................... 31Travel with Children ....... 39Regions at a Glance ....... 43

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip

UNDERSTAND TAHITI & FRENCH POLYNESIA

Tahiti & French Polynesia Today ............. 214

History ............................. 216Environment ................... 226Islander Life .................... 229French Polynesia in Popular Culture ............. 233

Tahiti & French Polynesia TodayCultural Renaissance Culturally, French Polynesia is rediscovering itself. In the last 20 years, the Tahitian language has been reclaimed as a subject now required in schools and as a university-level discipline. Tahitian dance is ourish-ing, tattoos have become the norm and ma’a Tahiti (traditional Tahitianifood) has been transformed into haute cuisine. Even a few pre-Europe-an Tahitian events are being resuscitated, such as the Matari’i i Ni’a in November, marking the beginning of the ‘season of abundance’ – Westerners more pessimistically call this the ‘wet season’.

Government Gymnastics hi e technically a part of France, French Polynesia is, for the most

art, self-governing. Since 2004 the government has been in turmoil as the main olitical parties battle it out and try to woo members of the assembly to i - o the balance of power. While democratic elections d id h bl t t h t th th

ation:

mass 00

MAINLANDFRANCE

FRENCHPOLYNESIA

STATE OFHAWAII

population per sq km

≈ 20 people

2

Islander Life If French Polynesia had a national slogan it might be haere maru (take ituslow), words that often fall from the lips of Tahitians to their busy Frenchand Chinese cohabitants. It’s hard not to take it slow out here. With oneroad encircling most islands, you’ll often get caught driving behind anold pick-up truck at 50km/h with no chance of passing; national holidaysseem to close up the shops and banks once every week or so; and gettingserved in a restaurant can take an eternity. This can be frustrating to any-one in a hurry, but somehow it all works out: you make it to wherever youwere going even if it does take twice as long, the bank can wait till tomor-row and your food arrives once you are really, really hungry. The Tahitianpeople know this and always seem amused by anyone who tries to break the rhythm of calm.

Family & Multiculturalism The traditional Tahitian family is an open-armed force that is the country’sbackbone. Although modern girls are increasingly less likely to stay homeand have baby after baby, an accidental pregnancy is considered more of blessing than a hindrance, and babies are passed along to another eager,

infant-loving family member. Faamu (adopted children) are not thought of as i erent from blood brothers and sisters, although the birth mother,n occasionally the father, sometimes remain a peripheral part of thehild’s life. Once a child is in a family they are in no way obligated to stay;hi ren move a out to aunties, uncles and grandparents as they wish

Thi f i i it i t t t i i i Wh

Go to www.ica.pf (Institut de la

Comminication Audiovisuelle, in French) for podcasts and

videos of every-thing cultural in

French Polynesia. Download or buy

old films, and watch music

videos, Tahitian news, clips of

Tahitian dance and much, much

more.

The Dream Tahiti: just the word conjures up centur-ies’ worth of images: hibiscus owers; svelte, bronze dancers in grass skirts; a humid breeze over turquoise sea. The islands of French Polynesia became legends the minute the rst European explorers reached their home shores with tales of a heaven on earth where the soil was fer-tile, life was simple, and sex was plentiful and guilt-free. While the lingering hype is outdated and no place can live up to being ‘paradise’, French Polynesia is still about as dreamy as reality gets. The trees are still heavy with fruit the mountains rise as ma

as blue. However, today there are freeways, Christianity has instilled more conserva-tive values and people work nine-to- ve jobs. French Polynesia has not escaped the modern world but embraced it. True, it’s not the perfect, untainted paradise of ex-plorer lore, but at least there’s a pretty fast internet connection.

Lagoon Spectacular While there are plenty of slim stretches of white-, pink- and black-sand beaches in French Polynesia, they are just pretty springboards into the real draw: the la-goons Most high islands are surrounded

Welcome to Tahiti & French Polynesia

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE

2

PAGE

213GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so youcan make sense of what you see

Huahine Archaeology Culture Diving

Ancient Village Stroll the remains of Maeva, a seaside village that was once the seat of royalty on Huahine. Explore the waterfront temples then scramble up the hillside to nd crumbling stone vestiges in the bush.

Lost in Time Slip into island time in Fare, the somniferous capital of Huahine. Fishing boats come in, shing boats go

out, women in owered clothing

buy groceries and, if you’re lucky, the cargo ship may be unloading the

Ra’iatea & Taha’a Archaeology Hiking Diving

The Big One You’ll feel an un- avoidable spiritual buzz at Marae Taputapuatea. Once a meeting place for Polynesians throughout the Paci c, this marae (traditional temple) is still one of the most important and well-preserved ancient temples of its kind.

Rare Flower The tiare apetahi is a delicate ve-petalled ower resembling a

woman’s hand that only grows on the Temahani Plateau in Ra’iatea. To see it you’ll have to make a challenging hike to the summit

Bora Bora Resorts Diving Hiking

Glamorous Life Welcome to over-the-water bungalow heaven where drinks are served with a view and pampering is on your tab. Top dining, luxury lagoon tours and sparkling white sands complete the package.

Every Shade of Blue Bora Bora’s sandy-bottom lagoon re ects the sky in so many hues it changes the de ni-tion of the word blue. There’s not much coral unless you head out to the fringing reef, but it’s as safe as a swimming pool

M

W

Mw

ybbh

th

T

M

Diving, Snorkelling & Wildlife-Watching Been searching for the world’s most intense shade of aqua? Look no further. What’s below the surface is even more spectacular: sharks, coral gardens, turtles, rays, dolphins, humpback whales, clouds of sh... Rangiroa It’s shark week! Or more like shark century. This is French Polynesia’s fauna-heavy diving capital (p ### )

Maupiti A manta ray cleaning station makes sightings likely, but human crowds are rare (p ### )

Rurutu Spot humpbacks through air-clear water or breaching near your boat (p ### )

Mo’orea Dolphins, whales, stingrays and sharks all star in a particularly stunning lagoon (p ### )

Tahiti Whale-watching trips too crowded on Mo’orea? Marine mammals pass by Tahiti too

Luxury Pampering Overwater bungalows were created then perfected in French Polynesia. Live la vie en bleu while lounging lagoon- or poolside with exotic cocktails, soaking in tropical ower– lled baths or getting your muscles soothed with hot volcanic stones. Bora Bora The world capital of overwater-bungalow bliss and a full-throttle celebrity magnet (p ### )

Taha’a Bora Bora’s quiet counterpart o ers glamour and luxe minus the hype (p ### )

Mo’orea Chic decadence can be easy to access, kid-friendly and chock-full of activities (p ### )

Tikehau Get your spa treat-ments in a remote paradise worthy of an adventure novel (p ### )

Rangiroa The Kia Ora lets you lounge near town or whisks you to a Crusoe-chic private island (p ### )

History & Archaeology Spirituality has always been paramount to Polynesian people and the historical vestiges you’ll nd in the islands are testament to this. Stone temples and Europe-worthy churches are highlights. Marae Taputapuatea, Ra’iatea Arguably the most important ancient Polynesian place of worship in the world (p ### )

Opunohu Valley, Mo’orea Tumbled remains of archery platforms, dwellings and temples wend up a jungle hill (p ### )

Cathedral & Churches, Gambier Archipelago In the 1880s, Father Laval lead islanders to build coral block churches that seat thousands (p ### and p ### )

Kamuihei & Tahakia, Nuku Hiva Villages of stone rubble shaded by grand banyan trees (p ### )

Iipona, Hiva Oa Five impressive stone tiki dominate this well-preserved site (p ### )

Gauguin Tahiti’s Gauguin Museum gives a taste of his work, but the artist’s spirit lives

If You Like

Diving When to Go There are regularly optimal diving conditions throughout the year, except when the trade wind blows, from June to August, producing choppy seas. Water temperatures range from a low of 26°C to a high of 29°C on most islands. You won’t need anything more than a thin neoprene wetsuit.

Best for Certi cation Tahiti Mo’orea Huahine Bora Bora

Island-by-Island Guide From Fakarava in the Tuamotus to Hiva Oin the Marquesas, you’ll be spoilt for choiceJust as the individual islands have their distinct personalities, so too the dive sites havtheir own hallmarks. Just take your pickAll dive sites are mapped in the destinationchapters.

Tahiti Although less charismatic than otheFrench Polynesian islands, Tahiti shouldn’b d t ith b t 20 l d

I SBN 978 -1 -74179 -692 -6

9 781741 796926

99225

twitter.com/lonelyplanet

facebook.com/lonelyplanet

lonelyplanet.com/newsletter

STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact

AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011%03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111

USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607%510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572

UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ%020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112

Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world’s forests.

Get the right guides for your trip

Looking for other travel resources?

LONELYPLANET.COMFor travel information, advice, tips & digital chapters

MAGAZINEFor travel stories, inspiration & ideaslonelyplanet.com/magazine

EBOOKSGuidebooks for your readerlonelyplanet.com/ebooks

APPSLocation-based guides for the streetlonelyplanet.com/mobile

COUNTRY & MULTICOUNTRY• The original• Comprehensive• Adventurous Adventurouss• Ad

PHRASEBOOKS

UNUNTRYTRY && CO

COUCOU

tahiti-french-polynesia-9-cover.indd 2tahiti-french-polynesia-9-cover.indd 2 24/05/2012 3:45:35 PM24/05/2012 3:45:35 PM

Look out for these icons:

Our author’s top recommendation

Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first

A green or sustainable option No payment

required

On the Road

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

TAHITI . . . . . . . . . . . . .48PAPE’ETE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51AROUND TAHITI NUI . . . . . . 65West Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65South Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . 68East Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71TAHITI ITI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73

MO’OREA . . . . . . . . . . . 77

HUAHINE . . . . . . . . . . .98

RA’IATEA & TAHA’A . . . . . . . . . . . . 110RA’IATEA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111TAHA’A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120

BORA BORA . . . . . . . . 126

MAUPITI . . . . . . . . . . . 143

THE TUAMOTUS . . . . 151RANGIROA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153TIKEHAU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162MATAIVA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165FAKARAVA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166MANIHI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171AHE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173

THE MARQUESAS . . . . . . . 174NUKU HIVA . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177Taiohae . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178Hakaui Valley . . . . . . . . . . . .182Toovii Plateau . . . . . . . . . . .182

Taipivai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .183Hatiheu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .183’UA HUKA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185’UA POU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189Hakahau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .189Hakahetau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191Hakamaii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191Hohoi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .192HIVA OA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192Atuona & Around . . . . . . . 193Taaoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .198Puamau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .199Hanapaaoa . . . . . . . . . . . . .199Hanaiapa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .199

TAHUATA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200

FATU HIVA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201

THE AUSTRALS & THE GAMBIER ARCHIPELAGO . . . . .203THE AUSTRALS. . . . . . . . . .204Rurutu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205Tubuai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207Raivavae . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208Rimatara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209

THE GAMBIER ARCHIPELAGO . . . . . . . . . . 210Mangareva . . . . . . . . . . . . . .210

S O U T H P A C I F I C

O C E A N

PAPE'ETE

148ºW152ºW

12ºS

156ºW

152ºW 148ºW

16ºS

20ºS

Manihi

Aratika

Toau

Ahe

Arutua

Rangiroa

Niau

Kaukura

Fakarava

Apataki

AnaaMehetia

Faaite

s

al

r

Raivavae

t

Mataiva

Makateana

sTaha'a

d

Tahiti

Tetiaroa

nalIr d

sn d

s dW i

Mo'oreaMaiao

s l aI

y

wn d a

Huahine

s lI

Bora

Tupai

dra

Maupiti

eeL

ScillyMopelia

w

So

ti e

c

hT

e

BoraRa'iatea

su

A

Tubuai

h

Rurutu

T eRimatara

s

Tikehau

Bellinghausen

Rangiroa

Bora BoraMaupiti

Teahupoo

Mo'orea

Pape'ete

Rurutu & the Australs

Papenoo Valley

Huahine

atoll (p153)

Over-the-water bungalow

The world's third-largest

Motu (small islet) beaches

the monster wave (p74)

(p205)

(p77)

The Heiva festival showcasesPolynesian culture (p51)

Whales, caves and culture

Visit waterfalls in Tahiti'slush interior (p70)

Watch surfing pros ride

High peaks, blue lagoons

and manta rays (p143)

Authentic, laid-backPolynesian perfection (p98)

bliss (p126)

120 miles200 km

00

› Tahiti & French Polynesia

#\

#\

Los Angeles

Sydney

Tahiti

Inte

rnat

iona

l Dat

e Li

ne

P A C I F I CO C E A N

O C E A N

S O U T H P A C I F I C

O C E A N

S O U T H P A C I F I C

12ºS

136ºW144ºW

16ºS

20ºS

136ºW140ºW 24ºS144ºW

Th

Hatutu

Nuku Hiva

Motu One

'Ua Huka

Tahuata

Hiva Oa

s

es a

Fatu Hiva

I

a

r

M

uq

te nn t m

p ops a i

Napuka

D

Tepoto Nord

i

'Ua Pou

e

Marutea Sud

The GambierArchipelago

Temoe

sa nd

Puka Puka

Reao

Pukarua

u

t

s

AkiakiVahitahi

Nukutavake

Tatakoto

m

u

a

FangatauTakume

Nihiru

Raroia

T

Rekareka

Amanu

Hao

Paraoa

TekokotaHikueru

Marutea Nord

Ravahere

Tauere

Nengonengo

Fakahina

o

VahangaTenararo

Pinaki

Tureia

Morane

Fangataufa

Moruroa

Ahunui

Tematangisd

r

alsI

Nukutepipi

n

Vairaatea

Vanavana

Manuhangi

MariaIsland

Tenarunga

Matureivavao

Mangareva

e

Tikei

Raraka

Taiaro

Kauehi

TakaroaTakapoto

Katiu

MotutungaTahanea

ke

se tol u c

GfoDu

Hereheretue

Haraiki

MarokauReitoru

Makemo

e

AnuanurungaAnuanuraro

Taenga

lshT

Tropic of Capricorn

The Marquesas

Gambier Archipelago

(p174)Wild terrain and ancient art

relics (p210)Eerie but beautiful church

Top Experiences Top Experiences ›

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Celeste Brash Coordinating Author; Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide Celeste fi rst visited French Polynesia in 1991, fell in love with her now husband as well as Poly-nesian culture, and moved to the country in 1995. Her fi rst fi ve years were spent living off fi sh and coconuts on a pearl farm on an atoll sans plumbing, telephone and airstrip, and the next 10 years were spent on Tahiti. Now in Portland, Oregon, she often complains of the cold. Her award-winning travel stories have appeared

in Travelers’ Tales books, and her travel articles have appeared in publications such as the Los Angeles Times and Islands magazine. She’s written over 30 Lonely Planet guides, but she considers the Tahiti & French Polynesia guide to be her pièce de résistance.

Jean-Bernard Carillet Diving, On the Road Paris-based journalist and photographer Jean-Bernard is a diehard Polynesia lover and diving instructor. So far, he has explored 28 islands in the fi ve archipelagos. On this research gig he searched for the most idyllic motu (small islet), the best manta-ray encounters, the most thrilling lagoon tours, the tastiest poisson cru (raw fi sh in coconut milk) dish, the most romantic spots, the most enjoyable hikes and the best-value accommodation. His favourite

experiences included following the Hawaiki Nui canoe race by boat and attending the Marquesas Arts Festival on Nuku Hiva.

Jean-Bernard has contributed to many Lonely Planet titles and he writes for travel and dive magazines.

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9839th edition – Sep 2012ISBN 978 1 74179 692 6© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Read more about Celeste at:lonelyplanet.com/members/CelesteBrash

30-our-writers-tah9.indd 27230-our-writers-tah9.indd 272 24/05/2012 2:53:45 PM24/05/2012 2:53:45 PM

Itiner-aries

Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

#•

#•

#–

#–

#f

PAPE’ETE

Mo’orea

Bora Bora

Huahine

Tahiti

Th

eS o c i e t y I s l a n d s

SOUTH PACIFIC OCE AN

É

É

É#–

É

#•#_

One weekA Glimpse of Paradise

From Pape’ete, fl y or boat straight to Mo’orea, and stay for at least two nights. Mo’orea boasts soaring peaks, verdant hillsides and aqua waters, and is considered by many to be the most beautiful isle in the Society Islands. Cycle around mag-nifi cent Cook’s Bay and Opunohu Bay, explore the island’s archaeological sites or

simply soak up the sun and splash around in the lagoon. From Mo’orea, fl y to Bora Bora. Live it up for a night or more (depending on your budget) in an overwater bungalow or partake in a variety of water excursions on the vast, blue lagoon. Dine by candlelight, relax in a spa and look out for celebrities. From Bora Bora, it’s a short fl ight to much more low-key Huahine, where you can end your holiday with two days of complete relaxation and a taste of authentic Polynesian culture. Go diving or snorkelling, take an island tour, and don’t miss trying ma’a Tahiti (traditional-style food) at the restaurant Mauarii.

22

#_

#•#•

#•

#–

#–

#f

PAPE’ETE

Ra’iateaBora Bora

Rangiroa

TahitiThe Society Islands

SOUTH PACIFIC OCE AN

É

É

É

#•Nuku Hiva

#•Hiva Oa

#–

É

#–

É

T h eT u a m

o t us

TheMarquesas

É

Explore French Polynesia’s myriad of welcoming cultures as well as its natural beauty. Start with a day or more on Tahiti, where you can take an island tour or hire a car to explore Marché de Pape’ete (Pape’ete Market) and the waterfalls, roadside caves and hidden beaches around the island. At night, catch a dance performance at one of the

resorts or (if it’s a Friday or Saturday) go out for a wild night in Pape’ete. Next get on a plane to Ra’iatea to see the impressive Marae Taputapuatea, one of the

most important spiritual sites of ancient Polynesia and hike up the Temehani Plateau in search of the tiare apetahi, one of the world’s rarest fl owers. Dive or snorkel the lagoon and be sure to take a picnic tour out to one of the island’s fringing white-sand islets or kayak up Faaroa River, the only navigable river in French Polynesia. From here, take a short fl ight to Bora Bora to snorkel the lagoon, swoon at the island’s square silhouette and live la vida jet set for a day or two. Then take a fl ight to Rangiroa, the largest coral atoll in the country. Dive with sharks, live in your swimsuit and quench your thirst with coconuts. Don’t miss a tour of the immense lagoon to see pink-sand beaches and the surreally beautiful Lagon Bleu (Blue Lagoon), a lagoon within a lagoon. At sunset, watch dolphins frolic in Tiputa Pass.

Change cultures entirely when you fl y on to the Marquesas (via Tahiti). Travelling here is like stepping back in time. You’ll start in Nuku Hiva, where you can hike across windswept ridges into ancient volcanic craters before checking out the island’s array of eerie archaeo-logical sites, including Hikokua, Kamuihei and Tahakia. Follow Gauguin’s trail to Hiva Oa to see the artist’s tomb at Calvaire Cemetery and visit the Espace Cuturel Paul Gauguin. Don’t miss the giant stone tiki (sacred statues) at Iipona and several other ancient sites on the island. Alternatively, you could visit all of the Marquesas islands by taking the Aranui cargo ship for one of the world’s most unique cruises focusing on culture and archaeology.

Two weeks or morePolynesian Passage

23PLAN

YOUR TRIP IT

INER

AR

IES

» (above) Stilt bungalows over the waters of Bora Bora (p126) » (left) Cyclists on Mo’orea (p77)

JEA

N-B

ER

NA

RD

CA

RILLE

T/LON

ELY P

LAN

ET IM

AG

ES ©

PAU

L KE

NN

ED

Y/LON

ELY P

LAN

ET IM

AG

ES ©

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ITIN

ERA

RIES

24

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd