©lonely planet publications pty ltd...
TRANSCRIPT
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Fionn Davenport, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Catherine Le Nevez, Josephine Quintero, Neil Wilson
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Counties Meath,Louth, Cavan &Monaghan
p514
CountiesDown & Armagh
p586
CountiesFermanagh& Tyronep647
CountiesWexford, Waterford,Carlow & Kilkenny
p162
CountiesLondonderry & Antrim
p613
The Midlandsp484
CountyDonegalp447
County Clarep336
Counties Wicklow& Kildarep136
CountiesMayo & Sligo
p412
CountiesLimerick &Tipperary
p310
County Galwayp371
CountyCorkp215
CountyKerryp263
Belfastp551
Dublinp58
Ireland©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Welcome to Ireland . . . . . .6
Ireland Map . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Ireland’s Top 21 . . . . . . . . .10
Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 20
First Time Ireland . . . . . . 22
What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 24
If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Month by Month . . . . . . . 28
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
The Great Outdoors . . . . .37
Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Regions at a Glance . . . . .51
DUBLIN . . . . . . . . . . . 58Howth. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
COUNTIES WICKLOW & KILDARE . . . . . . . . . 136County Wicklow . . . . . . 137Wicklow.Mountains. . . . . . 137Western.Wicklow . . . . . . . . 150The.Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Southern.Wicklow . . . . . . . 153County Kildare . . . . . . . 155Maynooth .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..155Straffan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156Newbridge.&.the.Curragh. . . . . . . . . . . . . 157Kildare.Town. . . . . . . . . . . . 158Donnelly’s.Hollow.to.Castledermot . . . . . . . . . . . 160
COUNTIES WEXFORD, WATERFORD, CARLOW & KILKENNY . . . . . . 162County Wexford . . . . . . 163Wexford.Town. . . . . . . . . . . 163Rosslare.Strand . . . . . . . . . 169Rosslare.Harbour. . . . . . . . 170Kilmore.Quay . . . . . . . . . . . .171Saltee.Islands. . . . . . . . . . . 172Hook.Peninsula.&.Around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172New.Ross. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174Enniscorthy. . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Ferns. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178County Waterford . . . . . 178Waterford.City . . . . . . . . . . 178Curraghmore.Estate . . . . . 184Southeast.County.Waterford. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184Dunmore.East. . . . . . . . . . . 184Tramore. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185The.Copper.Coast . . . . . . . 186Dungarvan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
Ring.Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . 189Ardmore. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190Cappoquin.&.Around. . . . . 191Lismore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192Northern.County.Waterford. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193County Carlow . . . . . . . 193Carlow.Town . . . . . . . . . . . . 193Ballon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195Borris.&.Around. . . . . . . . . 196St.Mullins. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197County Kilkenny . . . . . . 197Kilkenny.City. . . . . . . . . . . . 197Central.Kilkenny. . . . . . . . .209Northern.Kilkenny. . . . . . . 214
COUNTY CORK . . . . 215Cork City . . . . . . . . . . . . 218Blarney.Castle . . . . . . . . . . 228Fota. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228Cobh. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228Barryscourt.Castle. . . . . . .230Midleton.&.Around. . . . . . . 231Youghal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231Kinsale & West Cork . . . . . . . . . . . 233Kinsale. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233Clonakilty. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .240Skibbereen . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244Baltimore. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245Sherkin.Island. . . . . . . . . . . 246Cape.Clear.Island. . . . . . . . 246Mizen Head Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . 247Schull. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247West.of.Schull.to.Mizen.Head. . . . . . . . . . . . . 248Northside.of.the.Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . .250Bantry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250Sheep’s Head Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . 253
ON THE ROAD PLAN YOUR TRIP
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THE ENGLISH MARKET, CORK CITY P218
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WICKLOW MOUNTAINS P137
Contents
Gougane Barra Forest Park . . . . . . . . . . 256Beara Peninsula (Ring of Beara) . . . . . . . 256Glengarriff. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256Castletownbere.&.Around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259Dursey.Island . . . . . . . . . . .260Northside.of..the.Beara. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .260Northern Cork . . . . . . . . 261Mallow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261
COUNTY KERRY . . . 263Killarney . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265Killarney.National..Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270Ring of Kerry . . . . . . . . . 277Killorglin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277Kerry.Bog.Village..Museum. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281Rossbeigh.Strand. . . . . . . . 281Caherciveen.. . . . . . . . . . . . 281Valentia.Island . . . . . . . . . . 283Portmagee. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283Skellig.Islands. . . . . . . . . . .284Skellig.Ring. . . . . . . . . . . . . 285Waterville. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285Caherdaniel. . . . . . . . . . . . .286Sneem. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287Kenmare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .288Dingle Peninsula . . . . . . 290Annascaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292Dingle.Town. . . . . . . . . . . . . 292West.of.Dingle. . . . . . . . . . .299Connor.Pass. . . . . . . . . . . .302North.Side.of.the.Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . .302Northern Kerry . . . . . . . 303Tralee. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .304Listowel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
COUNTIES LIMERICK & TIPPERARY . . . . . . . 310County Limerick . . . . . . .311Limerick.City. . . . . . . . . . . . 311Adare.&.Around . . . . . . . . .320County Tipperary . . . . . 321Tipperary.Town. . . . . . . . . . 322Glen.of.Aherlow.&.Galtee.Mountains. . . . . . . . 322Cashel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323Cahir. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328Mitchelstown.Caves. . . . . . 329Clonmel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329Fethard. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333Carrick-on-Suir. . . . . . . . . .334Roscrea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .334Nenagh.&.Around. . . . . . . . 335
COUNTY CLARE . . . 336Ennis & Around . . . . . . . 338Ennis. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .338Eastern & Southeastern Clare . . . 343Shannon.Airport. . . . . . . . .343Bunratty. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .344Killaloe.&.Ballina . . . . . . . . 345Mountshannon. . . . . . . . . . 347Southwestern & Western Clare . . . . . . . . 350Kilrush. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .350Kilkee. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 352Kilkee.to.Loop.Head .. .. .. .. . 353Kilkee.to.Ennistymon . . . .354Ennistymon. . . . . . . . . . . . . 357Liscannor.&.Around. . . . . . 358Hag’s.Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358Cliffs.of.Moher . . . . . . . . . . 358The Burren . . . . . . . . . . . 359Doolin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361Lisdoonvarna . . . . . . . . . . .363Kilfenora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .364
Corofin.&.Around. . . . . . . . 365Central.Burren . . . . . . . . . .366Fanore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367Black.Head . . . . . . . . . . . . .368Ballyvaughan.&.Around. . .368Northern.Burren. . . . . . . . .369
COUNTY GALWAY . . .371Galway City . . . . . . . . . . 373Aran Islands . . . . . . . . . 385Inishmór .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 387Inishmaan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 391Inisheer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392Connemara . . . . . . . . . . 396Oughterard.&.Around . . . . 397Lough.Corrib. . . . . . . . . . . .398Coastal.Drive.–.Galway.City.to.Mace.Head. . . . . . .399Lough.Inagh.Valley. . . . . . .400Roundstone. . . . . . . . . . . . . 401Clifden.&.Around. . . . . . . .402Inishbofin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .405Letterfrack.&.Around. . . . .405Leenane.&.Killary.Harbour. . . . . . . . . . 407South of Galway City . . . . . . . . . . 408Clarinbridge.&..Kilcolgan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .408Kinvara. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .408Eastern Galway . . . . . . . 409Athenry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .409Loughrea.&.Around. . . . . .409Gort.&.Around . . . . . . . . . . 410Ballinasloe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410
COUNTIES MAYO & SLIGO . . . . . . . . . . . . 412County Mayo . . . . . . . . . 413Cong. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 413Doolough.Valley.&.Around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 417
Clare.Island. . . . . . . . . . . . . 418Inishturk.Island .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..419Croagh.Patrick. . . . . . . . . . 419Westport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .420Newport. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .423Achill.Island. . . . . . . . . . . . .424Ballycroy.National..Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 427Mullet.Peninsula. . . . . . . . . 427Ballycastle.&.Around. . . . .428Killala.&.Around. . . . . . . . .429Ballina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .430Castlebar.&.Around. . . . . . 431Knock. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .432County Sligo . . . . . . . . . 433Sligo.Town. . . . . . . . . . . . . .433South.of.Sligo.Town. . . . . .439Lough.Gill .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .443North.of.Sligo.Town. . . . . .443
COUNTY DONEGAL . . . . . . . . . 447Donegal Town . . . . . . . . 450Lough.Eske . . . . . . . . . . . . . 453Rossnowlagh. . . . . . . . . . . . 453Bundoran. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .454Southwestern Donegal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456Killybegs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .456Kilcar,.Carrick.&..Around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 457Glencolumbcille.&.Around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .458Ardara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .460Loughrea.Peninsula. . . . . . 461Glenties. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 461Northwestern Donegal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 462Dungloe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .462Burtonport.&.Kincasslagh. . . . . . . . . . . . .462Arranmore.Island. . . . . . . .463
Gweedore.&.Around .. .. .. .. .463Dunlewey.&.Around. . . . . .466Tory.Island. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 467Falcarragh.&..Gortahork . . . . . . . . . . . . . .469Dunfanaghy.&.Around. . . . 470Central Donegal . . . . . . 472Letterkenny. . . . . . . . . . . . . 472Glenveagh.National.Park . . . . . . . . . . . 473Lough.Gartan . . . . . . . . . . . 474Northeastern Donegal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 475Rosguill.Peninsula. . . . . . . 475Fanad.Peninsula. . . . . . . . . 475Inishowen.Peninsula . . . . . 477Buncrana. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 477Clonmany.&.Ballyliffin .. .. . 479Carndonagh . . . . . . . . . . . .480Malin.Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481Culdaff.&.Around. . . . . . . .482Greencastle. . . . . . . . . . . . .482Moville.&.Around. . . . . . . .483
THE MIDLANDS . . . 484County Laois . . . . . . . . . 486Abbeyleix. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .486Durrow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 487Slieve.Bloom..Mountains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 487Rock.of.Dunamaise. . . . . .489County Offaly . . . . . . . . 489Birr. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .490Kinnitty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .493Banagher.&.Around. . . . . .493Shannonbridge. . . . . . . . . .494Clonmacnoise. . . . . . . . . . .495Tullamore. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 497Durrow.Abbey. . . . . . . . . . .498County Roscommon . . . . . . . . . . 498Strokestown.&.Around . . .498
Boyle.&.Around. . . . . . . . . .499Roscommon.Town. . . . . . .502County Leitrim . . . . . . . 502Carrick-on-Shannon . . . . .503North.Leitrim . . . . . . . . . . . 507County Longford . . . . . . 507County Westmeath . . . . 508Athlone. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .508Lough.Ree.&.Around. . . . . 510Kilbeggan.&.Around. . . . . . 510Mullingar.&.Around. . . . . . 510North.of.Mullingar. . . . . . . 512
COUNTIES MEATH, LOUTH, CAVAN & MONAGHAN . . . . . . 514County Meath . . . . . . . . 515Brú.na.Bóinne. . . . . . . . . . . 515The.Battle.of.Boyne. . . . . . 521Laytown. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 522Slane .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 522Tara. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 524Dunsany.Castle . . . . . . . . . 526Trim. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 526Kells . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 529Loughcrew.Cairns . . . . . . .530County Louth . . . . . . . . 531Drogheda. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 531Dundalk. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 539Cooley.Peninsula. . . . . . . .540County Cavan . . . . . . . . 542Cavan.Town. . . . . . . . . . . . . 543Southern.Cavan. . . . . . . . . 545Eastern.Cavan. . . . . . . . . . .546Northwestern.Cavan. . . . .546County Monaghan . . . . 547Monaghan.Town. . . . . . . . . 547Clones.&.Around . . . . . . . .549Carrickmacross.&.Around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .549Inniskeen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .550
ON THE ROAD
Contents
BELFAST . . . . . . . . . 551Belfast City . . . . . . . . . . 553
COUNTIES DOWN & ARMAGH . . . . . . . . . 586County Down . . . . . . . . . 588Bangor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .588Central.County.Down . . . .589Ards.Peninsula. . . . . . . . . . 591Newtownards.&..Around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .594Strangford.Lough. . . . . . . .594Killyleagh. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 595Downpatrick . . . . . . . . . . . .596Lecale.Peninsula . . . . . . . .598Newcastle . . . . . . . . . . . . . .598Mourne.Mountains. . . . . . . 601Mournes.Coast.Road. . . . .605Newry. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .605County Armagh . . . . . . . 606South.Armagh .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .606Armagh.City . . . . . . . . . . . .608
COUNTIES LONDONDERRY & ANTRIM . . . . . . . . . . 613County Londonderry . . . . . . . . . 616Derry/Londonderry. . . . . . 616
Limavady.&.Around. . . . . .628Coastal.County.Londonderry. . . . . . . . . . . .629Portstewart. . . . . . . . . . . . .629County Antrim . . . . . . . 631Portrush. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 632Dunluce.Castle. . . . . . . . . .633Bushmills. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .633Giant’s.Causeway. . . . . . . .634Giant’s.Causeway.to.Ballycastle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 635Ballycastle. . . . . . . . . . . . . .636Rathlin.Island. . . . . . . . . . .638Glens.of.Antrim . . . . . . . . .639Larne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .644Carrickfergus . . . . . . . . . . .644Inland.County.Antrim . . . .646
COUNTIES FERMANAGH & TYRONE . . . . . . . . 647County Fermanagh . . . . . . . . . . . 650Enniskillen. . . . . . . . . . . . . .650Upper.Lough.Erne . . . . . . . 653Lower.Lough.Erne . . . . . . .656West.of.Lough.Erne. . . . . .659County Tyrone . . . . . . . . 661Omagh. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 661Sperrin.Mountains. . . . . . .662East.Tyrone. . . . . . . . . . . . .663
Ireland Today . . . . . . . . . 666
History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 668
The Irish Way of Life . . .681
Music . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 684
Literary Ireland . . . . . . . 687
Irish Landscapes . . . . . 690
Sporting Ireland . . . . . . . 694
Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 698
Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 706
Language . . . . . . . . . . . . .713
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 720
Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 734
SPECIAL FEATURES
SURVIVAL GUIDE
UNDERSTAND
Ring of Kerry Windswept beaches, Atlantic waves crashing against rugged cliffs and islands, medieval ruins, soaring mountains and glinting loughs are some of the stunning distractions along the twisting 179km Ring of Kerry circle drive around the Iveragh Peninsula.
Killorglin Even if you’re racing around the ring, don’t miss its first town (heading anticlockwise). The riverside village of Killorglin is home to a salmon smokehouse, some standout restaurants and, in August, the historic Puck Fair Festival.
Kenmare A fitting last (or first) stop on the ring, Kenmare sums up its greatest charms. A beautiful location on the bay (from where boat trips depart), colourful shops and gracious architecture are cornerstones of this classic Irish town.
Skellig Ring A ring within the ring, this 18km loop off the main route offers an escape from the crowds. The wild, scenic drive links Portmagee and Waterville via a Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking) area centred on Ballinskelligs (Baile an Sceilg).
Valentia Island Islands are a scenic highlight on the ring. Some are accessible by boat, but picturesque Valentia Island is even easier to reach, via a short bridge. There’s also a summer car-ferry service departing just south of Caherciveen.
Caherdaniel The ring’s scenery is at its most rugged around Caherdaniel. Highlights here include the Derrynane National Historic Park with its stately house and palm-filled gardens, horse riding, a Blue Flag beach and water sports galore.
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1. King Puck statue, Killorglin 2. Farmhouse, Skellig Ring 3. Traditional shopfront, Kenmare 4. Valentia Island
279278Great Outdoors Special Feature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Eat & Drink Like A Local . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Trinity College 3D illustration . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
Literary Dublin . . . . . . . 106
Glendalough 3D illustration . . . . . . . . . . . 144
Ring of Kerry . . . . . . . . . 278
Rock of Cashel 3D illustration . . . . . . . . . . . 324
Brú Na Bóinne 3D illustration . . . . . . . . . . . .518
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This 300km-tourist trail takes you past some of Ireland’s most famous attractions and through spectacular countryside. Start with a whistle-stop tour of Dublin, including visits to Trinity College and the Book of Kells as well as a sample of Guinness in its home town. The next day, head west to Galway, from where you should take a drive through stunning, brooding Connemara (which can be driven in a nice loop) before heading south through the moonlike landscape of The Burren. Take a detour to the Cliffs of Moher, then head to Ennis, a good spot to enjoy a bit of traditional Irish music. Keep going south through the Connor Pass into County Kerry, stopping for a half-day in Dingle before setting out to visit its peninsula, taking in the views and prehistoric monuments of Slea Head. Via the ferry, continue on to Killarney, the perfect base from which to explore the famous Ring of Kerry, a much-trafficked 179km loop around the Iveragh Peninsula.
Ireland Highlights
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32 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
The west of Ireland is rightly at the top of most people’s must-visit lists. Start in County Sligo, where prehistory and panorama combine to wonderful effect at Carrowmore Meg-alithic Cemetery. Wind your way south along the coast, stopping at some of Ireland’s best surf beaches like Strandhill and Enniscrone, to the pretty village of Pollatomish. Continue south to the pub-packed heritage town of Westport. Southwest of here is mag-nificent Croagh Patrick, which is worth a climb if only to feast your eyes from a height on island-studded Clew Bay. Go west to Louisburgh, from where you can head offshore to craggy Clare Island (home of the pirate queen Grace O’Malley), before turning south along the beautiful Doolough Valley to Leenane, situated on Ireland’s only fjord. This is the northern gateway to Connemara, which you can explore via the beautiful coastal route, passing Kylemore Abbey, venturing onto Clifden’s scenic Sky Road and then wind-ing your way around the coast through pretty Roundstone. Alternatively, you could sa-vour the stunning wilderness of the inland route through Maam Cross to Galway, where you should devote at least a day to exploring its colourful streets and wonderful pubs.
South of Galway, the fishing villages of Kinvara and Ballyvaughan are at the edge of the strange karst landscape of The Burren, home to all manner of flora and fauna, as well as big-ticket attractions like the ancient Aillwee Caves and the Cliffs of Moher. Going south, be sure to sample some of Ireland’s exquisite traditional music by attending a session in one of the pubs of Miltown Malbay; beach lovers should also opt for a stop in Kilkee, a favourite with surfers.
The easiest way to cross into County Kerry is via the ferry at Killimer. Take a day to explore the Dingle Peninsula, with its rich menu of ancient sites and stunning views, before overnighting in Dingle – one of the prettiest towns along the entire west coast. Take another day to explore the world-famous Ring of Kerry, ending in Killarney National Park, right on the edge of Killarney itself. Take the scenic route across the middle of the Beara Peninsula and make your way to the Italianate Garinish Island, with its exotic flowers. Then follow the coast through Castletownshend and the fishing village of Union Hall to the city of Cork.
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Top: Giant’s Causeway, County Antrim
Bottom: Stone circle, Beara Peninsula
34
PLAN YO
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Begin in Northern Ireland’s second city, Derry, walking the city walls and explor-ing the Bogside district. Then cross into County Donegal and explore the Inisho-wen Peninsula before overnighting in Dunfanaghy. Move down Donegal’s coastline and check out the monastic ruins of Glencolumbcille and the sea cliffs at Slieve League. Cross into County Sligo and visit the Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery before checking in to your Sligo Town hotel. The next day, treat yourself to a round of golf at the County Sligo Golf Course at Rosses Point or a seaweed bath in Enniscrone. You’ll skirt the eastern edge of Connemara as you travel south to Galway, from where you should strike out for Clonmacnoise, a 6th-century monastic site. From here, move through the heart of the Midlands to another monastic gem, the Rock of Cashel. Medieval Kilkenny is only an hour away – visit its stunning cas-tle before exploring nearby Thomastown and Jerpoint Abbey. Using Wexford as a base, explore Curracloe Beach and visit Enniscorthy and the excellent National 1798 Rebellion Centre. Or you could chill out and watch the fishermen draw in their lines in Kilmore Quay.
2 WEEKS Tip to Toe
Start in Dublin, then head north to the Neolithic necropolis at Brú na Bóinne. Continue on to Mellifont Abbey before crossing the border into Northern Ireland and heading to Belfast. Go northwest along the Antrim coast to the Giant’s Causeway. Continue around the coastline of north Donegal, stopping at Glenveagh National Park. Head south into Sligo and climb the Stone Age passage grave at Carrowkeel for views of Lough Arrow. Make your way to the southwest via Con-nemara. Wonder at The Burren and check out traditional music in Doolin before crossing into County Kerry and ex-ploring the Dingle Peninsula. Go through Killarney on your way round the Ring of Kerry. Camp in Kenmare and explore the Beara Peninsula, then Ireland’s second city, Cork. Explore County Waterford from seaside Ardmore. Visit Dungarvan and its castle, and the Museum of Treasures in Waterford. Go north through Thomas-town to St Canice’s Cathedral in Kilkenny before exploring the city’s medieval core. Visit Castletown House in County Kil-dare, then cut east to Glendalough in the Wicklow Mountains National Park. Head back to Dublin.
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Mellifont Abbey
Rock ofCashel
CarrowmoreMegalithicCemetery
Clonmacnoise
Curracloe Beach
InishowenPeninsula
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Begin at the stunning Neolithic tombs of Newgrange and Knowth in County Meath, in the heart of Brú na Bóinne. Nearby, stand at the top of the celebrated Hill of Tara, a site of immense folkloric significance and seat of the high kings of Ireland until the 11th century. Across the plain is the Hill of Slane, where St Patrick lit a fire in 433 to proclaim Christianity throughout the land. To the west is the Neolithic monument of Loughcrew – a quieter alternative to Brú na Bóinne. Keep going west to County Roscommon. Just outside Tulsk village is Cruachan Aí, the most important Celtic site in Europe. Head south to Clonmacnoise, the 6th-century monastic site in County Offaly, then continue through the heart of the country to the impressive Rock of Cashel in County Tipperary. Turn east and head through County Kilkenny, stopping at the Cistercian Jerpoint Abbey, at the pretty village of Thomastown. From here, travel northeast to Wicklow and magnificent Glendalough, where the substantial re-mains of a monastic settlement linger by two beautiful lakes.
1 WEEK
Ireland of the Ancients
Start in Belfast, where you should take a black taxi tour and/or visit the docks on a boat trip, before heading north toward the Antrim coast and the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge. Nearby is the Unesco World Heritage–listed Giant’s Causeway, which shouldn’t be missed by any visitor to Northern Ireland, and just beyond it the fascinating village of Bushmills, home to the famous distillery. Derry is worth a day – walk the city’s walls and explore its more recent past in the Bogside district, and then cross the invisible border into the Republic by visiting the Inishowen Peninsula in County Donegal. Back in the North, go southeast to Lough Erne, tak-ing in both White Island and the carved stones of Devenish Island before heading east to the famed Mourne Mountains, where you can hike along ancient smug-glers’ trails – or just admire the fabulous views before heading back to Belfast.
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Loughcrew
Clonmacnoise
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Hill ofTara
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Rock ofCashel
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PLAN YO
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On the Road
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Counties Meath,Louth, Cavan &Monaghan
p514
CountiesDown & Armagh
p586
CountiesFermanagh& Tyronep647
CountiesWexford, Waterford,Carlow & Kilkenny
p162
CountiesLondonderry & Antrim
p613
The Midlandsp484
CountyDonegalp447
County Clarep336
Counties Wicklow& Kildarep136
CountiesMayo & Sligo
p412
CountiesLimerick &Tipperary
p310
County Galwayp371
CountyCorkp215
CountyKerryp263
Belfastp551
Dublinp58
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Neil WilsonCounty Donegal; Belfast; Counties Down & Armagh; Counties Londonderry & Antrim; Counties Fermanagh & Tyrone Neil’s first visit to Northern Ireland was in 1994, during the first flush of post-ceasefire op-timism, and his interest in the history and politics of the place intensified when he found out that most of his mum’s ancestors were from Ulster. Working on the Ireland guidebook has allowed him to witness first-hand the
progress being made towards a lasting peace. Neil is a full-time travel writer based in Scot-land, and has written more than 50 guidebooks for half a dozen publishers.
Read more about Neil at: lonelyplanet.com/members/neilwilson
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Fionn Davenport Coordinating Author; Dublin; Counties Wicklow & Kildare A Dubliner by birth and by persuasion, Fionn has worked on at least seven editions of this guide, and more and more is reminded of Tancredi’s aphorism in The Leopard: ‘everything needs to change, so everything can stay the same.’ Everything has changed in Ireland, but it has managed to hold on to its traditional strengths – beautiful landscapes, a friendly people and a general conviviality that makes a repeat trip
unavoidable. Fionn also wrote the Plan Your Trip section, the Understand Ireland section and Sur-vival Guide chapters.
Catherine Le NevezCounty Cork; County Kerry; Counties Limerick & Tipperary Catherine’s wander-lust kicked in when she road-tripped across Europe aged four and she’s been hitting the road at every opportunity since, completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writing, Masters in Professional Writing, and post-grad qualifications in Editing and Publishing along the way. Catherine’s Celtic connections include Irish and Breton heritage (and a love of Guinness!). She’s travelled throughout
every county in the emerald isle, and covered the majority of them for Lonely Planet, including several editions of this book.
Josephine QuinteroCounties Wexford, Waterford, Carlow & Kilkenny; The Midlands; Counties Meath, Louth, Cavan & Monaghan Exploring some of the lesser visited counties Jose-phine discovered such delights as mystical caves, a belief in the little people and restaurant food so retro it included jelly and cream. Throughout these counties, history reverberated in the castles, landscape and evocative ruins, while a spell in the wonderfully vibrant cities of Waterford and Kilkenny was the ideal antidote
to those more rural terrains. Josephine has contributed to more than 35 guides for Lonely Planet and her delight in Ireland increases with every trip.
Ryan Ver BerkmoesCounty Clare; County Galway; Counties Mayo & Sligo From Loop Head to Sligo, with plenty of pleasures in between, Ryan has delighted in the great swath of Ireland. He first visited Galway in 1985 when he remembers a grey place where the locals wandered the muddy tidal flats for fun and frolic. Times have changed! From lost rural pubs to lost memory, he’s revelled in a place where his first name brings a smile and his surname brings a ‘huh?’. Follow him at ryanverberkmoes.
com; and on Twitter @ryanvb.
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
OUR WRITERS
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98311th edition – Mar 2014ISBN 978 1 74220 749 0© Lonely Planet 2014 Photographs © as indicated 201410 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Read more about Josephine at: lonelyplanet.com/members/JosephineQuintero
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