love enigma make up masterclass guidebook

Make Up Masterclass Guidebook

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Copyright 2014 Love Enigma Trademarked 2014 Love Enigma www.lovenigma.com

Love Enigma Publications

This guidebook has been created by Love Enigma to be used as an instruction manual following on from the Love Enigma Make Up Masterclass.

Copyright 2014 Love Enigma

Trademarked 2014 Love Enigma

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the copyright and trademark owner.

www.loveenigma.com [email protected]

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Contents Page

Make Up Kit 4

Safe Cosmetics 5

Skin Types 6

Skin Tones 8

Preparing the Skin 9

Face Shapes and Contouring 10

Full Face Application 12

Day Look 18

Night Look 21

Smoky Eyes 24

Strip Eyelash Application 27

Recommended Products 28

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Make Up Kit

Brushes High quality Thick bristles Clean your brushes frequently

Wedges Latex or silicone Clean/replace wedges frequently

Cotton Buds Tidy up make up Use with gentle eye make up remover

Tissues Use to dust excess make up powder Hold under eyes to catch drop down

powder Gentle Eye Make Up Remover

Gently remove eye make up Clean spilled powder

Good Lighting Day lighting for day time make up Darker lighting for night time make up

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Safe Cosmetics At Love Enigma we recommend using high quality naturally based cosmetics and products as they work in synergy with your skin, benefit your complexion and look after you holistically. The following list is chemicals/ingredients we recommend you avoid using: Paraffin/Mineral Oil/Paraffin Liquidium

Lanolin

Lead

Talc

Sodium Lauryl Sulphates/Sodium Lauryl Sulphites

Parabens

Chemical dyes

Fragrances

These are found in many cosmetics and make up products so always read the ingredient labels. Expensive and branded products dont mean safe products.

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Skin Types

Prior to make up application it is important to look after your skin with the correct products for your skin type. Use the list below to identify your skin.

Normal Skin that has even balance of oil and

moisture Can use any type of foundation Has a peachy healthy glow

Oily Skin has excess of oil production Prone to blemishes and large pores Make up can help to absorb excess oil Mineral Powder Foundation most

recommended Dry

Skin has a lack of oil Prone to dry patches and flaking Make up can help to increase oil Liquid Foundation and CC Cream

recommended Combination

Mixture of Oily and Dry Use a combination of Mineral Powder

Foundation and Liquid Foundation Dehydrated

Skin that is lacking water/moisture Increase water intake Liquid Foundation and CC Cream

recommended

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Sensitive/Sensitized Skin is either naturally sensitive or has

become sensitized Easily irritated, can have red patches Liquid Foundation or CC Cream

recommended Aged/Ageing

Skin has aged over time or due to sun damage

Fine lines and wrinkles are visible Liquid Foundation or CC Cream

recommended

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Skin Tones When choosing blusher, lip sticks and eyeshadows it is important to know your skin tones. These will be warm, cool or neutral. Warm skin tones have yellow, brown, olive and tan undertones and if you look at your wrists your veins will be greener in colour. Colours that suit will have brown, red, yellow and orange undertones. Cool skin tones have pink, blue, white and purple undertones and if you look at your wrists your veins will be bluer in colour. Colours that suit will have white, blue, pink and purple undertones. Neutral tones are more flat in colour with no specific warm or cool colours. Neutral skin tones suit most colours. When choosing colours the best thing to do if you are unsure is hold it up to you in good light and if you look healthy and fresh its a good colour. If you look dull or washed out then its not a good colour. Always choose colours that work with your skin tone to leave you looking great.

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Preparing the Skin During the day you skin is faced with free radicals, pollutants and oxidants. To keep it looking fresh, glowing and prevent premature ageing always fully cleanse at night. Every night without fully cleansing your make up can add 7 days ageing to your skin. In the morning prior to make up application it is important to cleanse any excess sebum and toxin residue from your face. Use products that are specific to your skin type and that are free from the chemicals we have previously listed. Always wait ten minutes after applying your moisturiser prior to applying makeup.

Use a cleanser, toner, serum and day cream/night cream in the morning and the evening

Ensure your day cream has a sun protection factor of at least SPF 15 or SPF 30 in hot/sunny weather

Apply eye cream/gel using your ring finger to the delicate eye area and dab in

Keep make up fresh by spraying an alcohol free toner throughout day

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Face Shapes and Contouring Make up can be used to create the illusion of an oval face with an even forehead, contoured cheeks and gentle jaw line. Use the following pictures to ascertain what your face shape is. The pink areas should be contoured with either a darker shade of foundation, matte brown powder/eye shadow or a bronzer. The purple areas should be highlighted with a lighter shade of foundation, highlighter or matte white powder/eye shadow. Practise makes perfect and it is worth trying your contouring a number of times to get the look right. An easy method of contouring for all face shapes is the three, three and three.

Using your bronzer brush along the lines show you create threes. Always blend the bronzer in with your brush and if necessary even out with finishing powder. These areas give a natural contour and highlight the areas the sun would naturally hit.

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Full Face Application Once your face is fully prepared you want to create the perfect base.

Primer creates a flawless finish to even fine lines and wrinkles, it smoothes over the skin and ensures your make up last the day. It should be applied with clean fingers or a foundation brush to allow you to get an even application. Start from the forehead and work your primer in a downward fashion ensuring you work it into the skin. Always work your product in a downward fashion to ensure you are not lifting the fine hairs in an upward direction.

Base will allow you to create an all over even finish to your skin, hide minor imperfections and have a flawless looking complexion. Choose from Foundation, Liquid Foundation or CC cream based on your skin type. You can apply with clean fingers, a foundation brush or cosmetic wedges. The key thing in creating a perfect base is having the correct colour. When choosing your base first pick a colour that looks closest to your natural skin then apply it to your dcollet or your neck and blend it in. Choose a shade one lighter and also one darker and blend these in beside the original shade. Whichever shade disappears into the skin is the shade for you. Always then check on your cheek to ensure the shade blends over your face.

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Apply as you did your primer ensuring the foundation goes right up to your hairline, over your eyelids and right up to your brows. You should have an even finish so it looks fresh and natural rather than caked on and heavy. Use a small amount and build up if necessary.

Concealer will cover up blemishes and under eye circles. For blemishes and uneven skin that is still visible after your foundation application you want a shade that matches your skin exactly. We recommend using a cream concealer. Apply concealer over the area to be covered and allow the product to warm on the skin for a few seconds. Using either a clean finger tip or small applicator sponge, gently pat the concealer into the skin. For under eye circles you want to use a concealer just slightly darker than your skin tone. This will help to lift the colour of the dark circle without giving a ghostly finish. Apply to the skin and allow to warm and then gently pat into the skin. If the under eye skin is still looking dark then a small amount of highlighter can be applied lightly on top of the concealer to lift the colour.

Bronzer is a great tool to give a sun kissed glow and to contour the face. You can contour using the previous contour picture or using the three-three-three method. Any areas of the face

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that you wish to make look smaller for example a long nose; you can dust bronzer along them. In addition bronzer is great along the dcollet to give a sun kissed look. Apply with a wide brush and always blend in for a natural finish. If you have used too much use your finishing powder to blend in evenly.

Highlighter allows you to accentuate features, lift the look of skin and give a gentle shimmer. Use the contouring guide to choose where to highlight. It can be used to draw attention to areas so is good on the cheek bones, around the eye area, on the tip and underside of the nose and on the chin. Apply with fingers tips and gently pat into the skin. It is also great on bare legs along the shin bone to accentuate your legs. We would recommend a liquid or cream highlighter to allow you to blend gently on the skin.

Blusher is used to create cheek bones and a fresh flushed appearance. Always pick a blush that matches your skin shade whether cool, warm or neutral. For day time matte is often best and for night time a shimmer finish is recommended. Apply with a blusher brush from in line with your ears and down over the apple of your cheeks. To exaggerate your cheeks for application pull your lips together in a fish pout which shows your cheek bones. Blush should be blended in to give a flushed look rather than clown circles. Apply a

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light amount and build up the colour if you need to apply more.

Eyebrows frame and shape the face and can take years off your face when shaped correctly. We recommend having them professionally shaped and if needed tinted as well. For daytime brows and a natural look we would suggest using a matte light brown, brown or black powder shadow and an angled brush. Using your brush apply a little powder and follow the natural brows brushing the powder in to give a deeper colour. If your eyebrows are sparse or have any gaps use a brow pencil/liner to draw in the gaps and then carry on applying your powder. For night time brows or more definition use a brow pencil/liner. Choose light brown, brown or black. Follow the natural line of your brush and use light feather strokes to draw your brows in. You can use the pencil/liner to draw brows slightly longer at the edges or to square off you brows for a more high definition brow. Always check that brows are symmetrical and if needed clean with cotton buds and re-draw.

Eyeliner on the Water Line gives the illusion of thicker, darker lashes. Using freshly sharpened ophthalmically tested eyeliner you want to draw under your top eyelashes along the wet area of eyelid known as the water line. Always look away from where you are drawing the

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liner to apply with comfort. You will often find your eyes water the first few times you apply. Always use a black eye liner for this to give the most dramatic look. For a daytime look only draw on the upper water line, not the lower water line. For smoky eyes draw on the lower water line too.

Mascara creates longer and thicker lashes and is a must for day and night time. We recommend either regular mascara or smudge proof as waterproofs often have harsh chemicals. When applying mascara start on top of the top lashes looking downwards into your mirror and brush along the lash and then lift and curl at the tip. This coats and shapes the lash. Next, brush underneath the top lashes in a zig zag motion, lifting up at the tip. This lifts the lashes and opens the eyes. Next looking upwards you want to gently coat the lower lashes gently waving your mascara wand from side to side. For extra definition apply 2-3 coats of mascara to the underside of the top lashes and the lower lashes.

Finishing Powder sets your entire make up and gives a luminescent finish to skin. Always apply after you have finished the rest of your make up and use to blend in any areas of contouring. You can apply over your whole face or even just dust over any areas that still have shine.

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Use a large brush and brush over skin in a downward fashion. For top ups use a pressed powder compact.

Lip Gloss is a great finish for a natural look and perfect to reapply during the day. Pick a clear colour or as close to your natural lip colour. Lip gloss should also keep your lips hydrated and plumped.

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Day Look 1. Prepare full face as already described but

dont apply your mascara or lip gloss. 2. Apply a pale matte base colour over entire lid.

Use a cream shade for all skin tones. For cool skins you can also use pale pinks, pale blues, pastel greens, light greys and pale lilacs. For warm skins you can also use pastel yellow, pales orange, light beige.

3. Use a medium matte colour along crease of eyelid, a medium brown will suit all skin tones. For cool skins you can also use pinks, blues, greens, greys and purples. For warm skins you can use golds, oranges, bronzes and warm browns.

4. Use a dark matte colour to shade a triangle along the outer ends of crease. A dark brown is suitable for all skin tones. For cool tones use a darker pink, blue, green, grey and purple. For warm tones use darker yellow, oranges, reds, bronzes and deep browns.

5. Shade your lower lid right up to the lash line with a medium shimmer brown suitable for all skin tones. You can also use colours as per step 3.

6. Using a thin angled brush line your lower lashes with the dark colour shadow used in step 4.

7. Blend your medium shadow into the edge of your dark triangle and then blend your light shadow under your brow bone.

8. Choosing a lip liner closest to your natural lip colour draw in your cupids bow first and then

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draw along the top lip line. Next draw along your bottom lip line. To thicken lips draw along the original line just slightly above. To thin lips colour with foundation and draw your lip line slightly in from your natural lip.

9. Choose a lipstick closest to your natural lip colour and apply with a lip brush. Brush into the fine lines on your lip and then blot with a tissue. This seals the colour. Apply a second layer using your lip brush.

10. Apply your mascara.

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Day Look

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Night Look 1. Apply primer, foundation and concealer to the

eye area but leave the remainder of the face until the eyes are finished in case of product drop down.

2. Apply a pale shimmer base colour over entire lid. Use a cream shade for all skin tones. For cool skins you can also use pale pinks, pale blues, pastel greens, light greys and pale lilacs. For warm skins you can also use pastel yellow, pales orange, light beige.

3. Use a dark contrast shimmer colour along crease of eyelid, a deep maroon purple will suit most skin tones. For cool skins you can also use dark pinks, blues, greens, greys and purples. For warm skins you can use deep golds, oranges, bronzes and dark browns.

4. Use a dark shimmer colour to shade a triangle along the outer ends of crease. A dark shimmer brown is suitable for all skin tones. For cool tones use a darker shimmer pink, blue, green, grey and purple. For warm tones use darker shimmery yellow, oranges, reds, bronzes and deep browns.

5. Shade your lower lid right up to the lash line with a medium matte; a burnt orange is suitable for all skin tones. You can also use colours as per step 3 but using a matte finish.

6. Using a thin angled brush line your lower lashes with the dark colour shadow used in step 4.

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7. Blend your contrast shadow into the edge of your dark triangle and then blend your light shadow under your brow bone.

8. Apply your mascara. Apply additional coats if required.

9. If there is any product drop down then clean with gentle eye makeup remover and dry the skin with a tissue.

10. Continue with the full face make up application.

11. Choosing a lip liner closest to your natural lip colour draw in your cupids bow first and then draw along the top lip line. Next draw along your bottom lip line. To thicken lips draw along the original line just slightly above. To thin lips colour with foundation and draw your lip line slightly in from your natural lip. This gives you a base line to draw in with a darker colour. Choose a darker liner for a more evening look and draw on top of the natural liner. One you are confident in drawing your lip le you can skip the natural colour and draw with the dark colour. For cool skins use deep pinks, purples and ash browns. For warms skins choose apricots, peaches, light reds or warms browns.

12. Choose a lipstick which matches your lip liner colour and apply with a lip brush. Brush into the fine lines on your lip and then blot with a tissue. This seals the colour. Apply a second layer using your lip brush.

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Night Look

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Smoky Eyes 1. Apply primer, foundation and concealer to the

eye area but leave the remainder of the face until the eyes are finished in case of product drop down.

2. Apply a pale shimmer base colour over entire lid. Use a cream shade and then a white shade on top of the cream for warm skin tones and a white shade for cool skin tones.

3. Apply extra white just below the brow bone. 4. Use a dark shimmer grey for cool skins and a

dark shimmer brown for warm skins and apply along crease of eyelid

5. Using black shadow shade a triangle along the outer ends of crease. This is for all skin tones.

6. Using black draw along the crease line using a thin angled brush.

7. Shade your lower lid right up to the lash line using the shade in step 4.

8. Using a thin angled brush line your lower lashes with the black shadow.

9. Blend your step 4 shadow into the edge of your dark triangle and along the crease and then blend your cream or white shadow under your brow bone.

10. Using your angled brush apply black liquid eyeliner along the upper lash line. You can thicken this on the outer corner of the lash line.

11. Apply black pencil eyeliner on the lower water line.

12. Apply your mascara.

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13. Apply strip lashes ( see page 27 for eyelash application)

14. If there is any product drop down then clean with gentle eye makeup remover and dry the skin with a tissue.

15. Continue with the full face make up application.

16. Choosing a lip liner closest to your natural lip colour draw in your cupids bow first and then draw along the top lip line. Next draw along your bottom lip line. To thicken lips draw along the original line just slightly above. To thin lips colour with foundation and draw your lip line slightly in from your natural lip. This gives you a base line to draw in with a darker colour. Choose a red liner for a more evening look and draw on top of the natural liner. One you are confident in drawing your lip le you can skip the natural colour and draw with the dark colour. For cool skins use cooler reds with blue and purple undertones. For warms skins choose reds with peach, red and brown undertones.

17. Choose a lipstick which matches your lip liner colour and apply with a lip brush. Brush into the fine lines on your lip and then blot with a tissue. This seals the colour. Apply a second layer using your lip brush and blot again. Apply a third layer to give a bold red that will last.

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Smoky Eyes

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Strip Eyelash Application Pick strip lashes to finish your look. You can go as natural or extravagant as you want with smoky eyes. When apply lashes first take the right one with tweezers and measure it against your own eye by holding against the lash line. If the lash is too long then trim the outer edge with scissors. Repeat with the left lash. Next pick up the right eyelash with an eyelash applicator and apply a thin line of glue. Wait for the glue to become tacky and then, looking downward into your mirror, apply on top of your lashes as close to the lash line and let go of the applicator leaving the lash on your on lashes. Using your pinkie gently push the lash into your lash line. Repeat with the left lash. Wait for five minutes to see that the lash is correctly adhered and if necessary apply more glue and press back onto the lash line. Always take glue with you in cash the lash moves during the night. To remove gently peel the lash away from the outer corner of eye. Gently clean your lashes with eye makeup remover to use for a few applications and leave lashes to air dry.

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Recommended Products With the exception of false eyelashes all of the makeup products, skincare and brushes we use are Arbonne International. These are advanced Swiss heritage products free from harsh chemicals and botanically based. They deliver long lasting results while also nourishing and conditioning the skin without clogging pores. Products used during the workshop are as follows: Preparing the Skin:

Easy On The Eyes Eye Make Up Remover

FC5 Hydrating Cleanser and Freshener

FC5 Nurturing Day lotion with SPF 20

RE9 Advanced Corrective Eye Cream Make Up Brushes

Arbonne Cosmetics Brush Set Full Face Application:

Primer

Liquid Perfecting Foundation

Cream Concealer

Bronzer Powder

Sheer Glow Highlighter

Blush Dusty Rose

Sand lighter brown Eyeshadow or Java darker brown Eyeshadow for brows

Ebony Eyeliner on water line

Its A Long Story Mascara

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Clear Lip Polish Day Look:

Neutral Eye set comprised of Vanilla, Java, Smoke and Sand Eyeshadow colours, Its A Long Story Mascara and Easy On The Eyes Eye Make Up Remover. Items can also be purchased individually.

Ginger Lipliner

Satin Lipstick

Sunset Blush Night Look:

Smoky Eye set comprised of Linen, chocolate, Suede and Cabernet Eyeshadow colours, Its A Long Story Mascara and Easy On The Eyes Eye Make Up Remover. Items can also be purchased individually.

Pink Mauve Lip Liner

Earth Lipstick

Toffee light brown Eyeliner or Cocoa darker brown Eyeliner for brows

Berry Blush Smoky Eyes Cool

Snow, Titanium and Blackout Eyeshadow colours

Cherry Lip Liner

Runway Rouge lipstick


Merlot Blush

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Black Liquid Eyeliner

Smoky Eyes Warm

Linen, Chocolate and Blackout Eyeshadow colours

Cherry Lip Liner

Strawberry lipstick


Merlot Blush

Black Liquid Eyeliner

To purchase any products you can contact us directly via [email protected] or you can order online at www.arbonneinterational.co.uk using ID number 440012713. For eyelashes we recommend Ardell for more natural looking or glamorous. They can be purchased at most larger chemists or professional beauty stores. For extravagant eyelashes we recommend Illamasqua which can be bought online or at an Illamasqua retailer. For strip eyelash applicators you can check larger chemists or online shops.

love enigma make up masterclass guidebook

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skin types

skin tones

sensitivesensitized

normal skin

recommended dry skin

recommended products

oil liquid foundation