lpine club of canada - jrosselet.comjrosselet.com/acc/newsletter/s12online.pdf · bon echo...

summer ’ 12

toronto sect ion

alpine club of canada

3

summ

er 2012

Future issues will be available exclusively on our newly redesigned website. Full colour electronic copies of the newsletter from winter 2000 - present will be available at: climbers.org.

Remember that we rely on your contributions to keep Remember that we rely on your contributions to keep the newsletter full of interesting content. Please contact the editor with your ideas! Send article submissions to [email protected].

STORIES:

In Conversation with Roger Wallis

Winter in New Hampshire

7th Annual Bancroft Ice-climbing Weekend

Master of Acclimatization

Sean Isaac Ice-climbing Weekend

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NEWS & EVENTS:

Bon Echo Report 2012

Summer Trip Matrix

Bon Echo Custodian List 2012

Half Price Climbing Nights

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Toronto Section newsletter \ Fall ‘112

[COVER, RIGHT] Photos: Roger Wallis

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Chairpersons

National Club Section Rep.

Secretary

Treasurer

Membership

National Awards

Opportunities FundOpportunities Fund

Website

Newsletter

Bon Echo Chair

Boat Coordinator

Bon Echo Committee

Activities Chair

Rock ClimbingRock Climbing

Mountaineering

Ice Coordinator

Banff Planning Committee

Access Representative

Leadership Chair

Leadership Committe

Quentin Hamilton

Jon Gullett

Sandra Bowkun

K. Sparky Russell

Karen McGilvray

Helen King

Dave MylesDave Myles

K. Sparky Russell

Paul Chvostek

Dave Myles

James Rosselet

Ron Rusk

Chris Rogers

Kit MooreKit Moore

Larry Forsyth

Dave Henderson

Bryan Thompson

Rob LeBlanc

Rob LeBlanc

Alex Perel

Paul ChvostekPaul Chvostek

Karen McGilvray

Rob Leblanc

Norma Froelich

Colin Huggard

Luke Myles

Boris Kaschenko

Sandra BowkunSandra Bowkun

Roger Wallis

Ron Rusk

Dave Myles

[email protected]

[email protected]

[email protected]

[email protected]

[email protected]

[email protected]

[email protected]@climbers.org

[email protected]

[email protected]

[email protected]

[email protected]

[email protected]

[email protected]

[email protected]@torontobanfffilmfest.com

[email protected]

[email protected]

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[PHOTO] Jon Gullet leading Dracula (4+) Photo: Bryan Thompson[RIGHT] Captured during an attempted winter ascent of Cap Trinité,Dominic Ngo skis the fjord 100m below. Saguenay, QC Photo: James Rosselet

ACC Toronto Section Executive

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Welcome to the “In Conversation” series.

ConversationsConversations can spark new and exciting ideas. Climbing

conversations can stir interest in new peaks, ranges or routes,

contribute to a re-examination of personal approaches to

climbing - such as safety margins - or inspire new artistic en-

deavours in the alpine. Or, climbers might simply find them-

selves reflecting on their “inner ranges” in a fresh manner.

These are a few of the hoped for outcomes of the “In Conver-

sation” series.

The series will consist of conversations with section mem-

bers involved with all forms of climbing; from the physical

effort of ascent to those who capture climbing in painting, pho-

tography and writing. The series aims, in some small way, to

expand the imagination and knowledge horizon of our remark-

able climbing community.

And the membership of the Toronto Section of the ACC is

endowed with a remarkably rich collection of experiences; on

the slopes and summits of mountains, a relaxed climbing waltz

or “epic” up long rock walls, an ascent of crystalline (and/or

manky) cascading ice as well as thoughtful artistic examina-

tions of the vertical world. The series hopes to tap into many

of these varied experiences.

I hope you enjoy a glimpse into the interviewee’s journey

of discovery. Gain from their technical knowledge and geo-

graphic insights. Reflect on their hard earned lessons learned.

But most of all, feel the inexorable pull to get out, AND UP.

Jim Everard

[email protected]

Interviews from the Toronto Section of the ACC

IN C o n v e r s a t i o nWITH ROGER WALLISWITH ROGER WALLISWITH ROGER WALLIS

For the inaugural “In

Conversation” interview we

have the very good fortune

of successfully cajoling Roger

Wallis into the interview chair.

Roger has been a member of

the Toronto Section since

1970 and has been climbing 1970 and has been climbing

for 60 years. He has made

more than 60 first ascents of

mountains in South and East

Greenland, Spitsbergen and

in Canada’s Rockies, Purcells,

Selkirks, Monashees,

Premiers, Cariboos, Coast Premiers, Cariboos, Coast

Range and St Elias. He has

the Silver Rope and

Distinguished Service Awards

from the Alpine Club of

Canada, and recently he was

made an Honorary Member

of the Club.of the Club.

JIM: ROGER: : : : :::: :� � : :� � : : : : � : :� � � :: : : :� : �: �� : :: � �: : � � : : � :: � � � : : :� � � : �� : � :� � � � :: �� : : � : �� Tasermiut

[PHOTOS BY ROGER WALLIS]

:� � �� : � � : �� : �� JIM: : : : : ROGER:ROGER: : : : : : : : : : � : � : : :� : � : � � :: � : � � : � � � : : : : � � : : : �: � � � : � � � : : :�: : : � : :

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’’’’’’�’’’’’ �’’’’’’’ ’�’�’’’�’ ’’�’ ’�’��’��’’’�’�’’’’’’’’�’�’’’’’’’’�’�’’’�’’�’’��’�’�’��’’’’�’’��’’’�’’’’��’’’’�’’’�’’’’ ’’ ’’’’ ’’�’’ ��’��’’’ �’ ��’’ ’’�’’�’’�’’’�’’’�’’’’’’’’��’�’’’’��’’’’�’’�’’’’ ’’�’ ’’’’’ �’’�’’ ��’ ’’�’�’ ’’’’’’’ �’�’�’ ’’’ �’�’’’’’�’’ �’ ��’��’��’�’�’’’’’�’’�’’��’’�’’�’�’’’�’’’�’�’’’’ �’’�’�’’ ’’’ �’��’’’ �’’�’’ �’’�’’’’’�’’’’’’’’’’’’�’�’’�’�’�’’�’’’’��’�’’’’’’’’’�’’’’��’’’ ’ ��’’’�’’’’’�’�’�’’�’’’’�’�’’’’’’’�’’’’’’�’’�’��’’ ’’’�’ ’’’ ’��’�’’’�’’ �’’’’�’�’�’ ’ ’ �’ �’�’’’�’�’�’’�’ ’�’’ �’’�’’ �’�’�’�’�’’’��’’’��’’�’�’’’’’’’�’’’’’�’’��’�’��’��’ ’’’’ �’�’ ’’’ ’’�’’ ’’’ �’�’�’’�’’�’’��’ ’ ’�’’’’�’’�’�’�’�’’’’’’’’�’’’’’’��’�’’’’�’�’’’�’’�’�’�’�’’’�’’��’’’’’’’’’��’’’’�’’�’’��’�’�’�’’�’’’’’’’�’’’�’’’’�’’�’’�’’’’’’’’’’’’�’’’’�’’’’ �’�’ ’’’ �’�’’’’’’’’’’ ’’�’�’’’’’�’ ��’’’’ ’�’�’ ’�’�’’ �’�’’ ’’�’’’�’�’’ �’’’�’ ��’’’’ ’’’ �’��’ �’’ �’’�’�’�’’ ’’’ ’’’ ’’’’ �’’’’ ’’’’ ’’’’�’ ’�’’�’’’’ �’�’�’’ ’�’’’’’ ’’’’��’’ ’’�’ �’��’�’’’�’’ ’’’�’’��’�’ ’’�’ ’’�’’’’’’ ’’’��’��’��’’’’ ’ �’’’’’’’�’’��’’’’’’�’�’�’’’’’��’’’’’�’’ ’�’’ ’’’’ ’�’’ �’’’�’ ��’��’’’’ ’�’’’’��’’�’’’�’’’�’’’’�’’��’ ’ ’�’�’’’’’�’�’’’’�’’’’’�’’��’’’’’’’’�’�’’’’’’’�’’’’’’’’’’ �’’�’ ’’’’’’’’ ’�’’ �’’’�’’’’�’’�’’’’’��’ ’’’ �’’’�’’ ’�’’ �’’’�’’’ ’�’’��’’��’’ ’�’’ �’�’�’ ’’’ ’�’’ �’’�’ ’’’’�’�’�’��’’��’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’�’�’’’�’’’�’’��’’’’�’’’’’’�’’’’�’�’�’’’’��’’’’’’’’’’’ �’’’’�’ ’�’�’’’ ’�’’�’’�’’’ �’�’�’ ’’’’’�’’ ’’’’’ �’’’ ’’�’’ �’’’’ �’’�’�’’’ �’��’�’’’’ ’�’’’’ ’�’ ’’’ ’’’’’�’ ’’’ ’’�’’ ’’’’’�’’’��’’’’�’�’’’�’’’’’�’’’’�’’’’’’’’’�’’’’�’’’ ’’’’�’’ ’’’ ’�’’ ’’’’’�’ ’�’’’’ ’’’’’’’’’�’’’�’’�’’�’’’’’�’’�’’’’’’’’�’’�’’’�’ �’�’�’’ ’’’’’ ’’’’’ ’�’’’�’�’ ’’’ ’’’’’�’�’’’’’�’’’’’’’’�’�’’’’’��’‘should I quit? should I quit? should I quit? Is this more than I can hack? If I climb this next pitch, how am I going to get out of here?’’ ’’’’’ ’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’’�’ ��’’’�’ ’’�’ ’’ ’’�’ �’’’�’’’’�’ ’’’’�’��’�’’�’�’’’’’�’�’’’�’’’�’’’�’’‘well, I can always get back from here’.

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JIM: ROGER:ROGER: JIM: ROGER: HUGE, BOLD, BLACK ENORMOUS CAPI-TALS. � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �

� � � �� JIM: ROGER: 1. well, that’s a line, and there’s a line, and there’s another 2. � � 3. � � 4.

at our abysmal level of climbing, we could climb here for a lifetime JIM: the continuous search for that wondrous feeling of lightness and calm – on those days when the world narrows to setting your crampon points just so on a smear of ice; to coordinating your breath, pace and concentration toward that oh-so-distant summit; to moving your hips a few millimeters so you can pull precisely this way on an insecure bump – forms a large part of what makes the act of climbing so enthralling, even addictive. ROGER: � � � � télépherique guille du Midi Mer de Glace

8 Toronto Section newsletter \ summer ‘12

tttsssttsttttss!ss�ttsstttsssttttstsstssssssGrandes JorassessssssssssssssssAiguille du Géantss ssss sssss tss tttts tttss sttttts ssssstssststttstsstssssssttsstsststststssssssststtss tts ssss ttsstss tstss tssttsss ttsststtttstttsssttsssssstststssstttssssststtssttttststttsttstttstsssttsstsssststtstttsstttsstsssssssstsssssttstttssstttsssttssssststssttttttss�ss ssss sttsss tstss tts �tt�stts �ssss tttsss sttsss tttss�sstss tsstsss tss sssststttsttsssssssssssstsstsstttttsssttssttsssss tstttsttsss ssss tssts ssss ssttttttssttssststsstts�tt�stttss!sssttstsss�t ttsts ttttss tsstss ssss stss tsttts ttssss ttssssssssst!ssttttttstsstsstst�tststtsssssttsttstsssssssst!sstststtttsssssssstttsssttstststtss tss tstss ssstss stts sssts tss sssstssssttststttststs tttssts s sststsssssttt ttsss tss sssstttsss s tttsttts stss �sststssss tss tstss sttstss tss tstss stssttts tssttsstttss �stsstttss tss tsts tss ssss sstss ttstssss tss tstss tststtss tt�s s tss ssss sssssssttss sttss sttsss tstss ttss sts ttttsttsttssssttsstssttttssttt�ssttsssssstsssthose ststsssststtttstssttstsssssttsttsttss sststssstss sststtstsstssttstsss s sssts�sssss�ttssttststtsssss�ststtttss�ttssttttstststssstssstststttststttssstsss sstss!sstsstt sssttssttssssttssttttstststsstttstsstststss sstss!sstsstt sssttsttss�sssstststsstttstsststs ssttstssstsssssttsstst ttttsss�s��sttststtststtstststtststtstststtsttsstssss ttsss ssss sstttsss �whoa, maybe wwe’ve bitten off a little more than we can chew here!!s s s!ttststs tsttsstttts s!ttststsssss tsttsstttts ttttttsts stts sss ssss tstsssttstsss s sssts�ssssstttttsstts ttttssttssstss sststtsttstssstststsss s!tsssststtsstttssttstsstststtss tssssts sssststttttst ts s s tstttssstttsss sts tts ssstss sts tsss ssstss tsttsstttsssttststtsttsstsssssttssssststssststtsttsttstsssts ttssstttts ttstss tstss ssss tst tstststssssss sts ttsttss�ttststtstststssssttststst�sttss tttssttss tsstss tss ttttss tsssssss sssttss tstss tstss ttstst�ttsststs s ss ttststtttsssttssssttsts �s��stststtsts�sttttststtssttsssss ststsssttsttsttssss sstts��tsttstss �s��ssttsssssssts!ts ttssttststtsttstststtstttttsts ststsss ttststttstss ttttsts ststsssttststttstsststsssssssttssttstssttstss ssttstttttts stss tstttttsts sssss ssstss ttttss tsssssssstttsssttsttssttstssssstssssttststtss tttsstststs

JIM: ssssstttsstttssststtstsssstssttsttsttsssssss tssstts tttssssttssssststt ssstsssttss tttsssts tts tsttttts ttststss sssstttttssssttttt ROGER:ROGER: stss tssstssss tss ss

sstttss tss tttttssstssts ssts tss�ts ssssstttststssstttttsssssttstsstts s�ttststttssstsssssssts�ssttsttstttssssstt!ststtstsssttssttss tssssttts s ttss tts sssss tsts ttst sstttstttstsssttttsss!ssststssssststtssttts !tss ststs tssss tss tsstss s tttttsss ttssststttss tsts tstss stss tssttssss tttsssts ttsttttss ststs sstss!ss�sttss!stststtststts tsss!ttstttsttttsssttsssstssstst�sttttsttttsssstsstttsstttssstststttststtssssssssstsssssstttttss sssstssssstssttstsss!tstttstsstsssttssss tts tttss ttsttststtss tts tssssststtts s ttss s!ststtstsstttts tsss sststtsssttssssts stssssssststtttststts sssstsssssststtssstststsstsstttts s tstsssts tsss tts ssss tttssst s tststssss tss tttttsss ttttss ssss s tsts sssststsstsssststtssssttsttsttstsssssttstsssttststttttsstttsstss�sJIM: sssstttsssstsstssts ROGER: !ss ttss s tsts ssssstss ttssssssstttsstststtsssttssssstststtstsstssssstttsssssssssttsttsssss stss stsssssssssssttttttsssss sttstssssssststtsssttttsstsstssts ssss ttssts tstsststtss tts ttss stttssssssstttsststsssssssstsstts ssss ttssstststss stss tttssstss sts tttttsss tttttsstts tssttsttttss sts ssss tttsss ssss tts tts ss tstts tssstssttsstttsttss ttss tttttss tsttss ssts ss s�� s��s sttts sttss sts tstts �s�stsssss�tts�tsststssssssstss sssstsststsssttssstss tstssss sss ttss ttttstss �tssss ssss sstststttsstts sstss�ststts�stsssssssssssssttsts ssttstssttss tts stttss �� s ssssssssssss sts tss tstttstsss t��ts s s s ttstssttttss stss tts sttss ssss ttss ttttts tss

tttttsssttssttsstststtss tssssssssttsstt tsttstsstsssttstssssssstssttsttsttstssssstttsstss ttsss ttstsssssss sssssstttssttss tsstssststtststtssttststtstss ttstttsstssststssttss s ssttsttssstststsssstts stsssstsstsssss ttss ststssttssssssttsttsstts�tttss�stststsssssssststss ssttss ttt�ssts s s ttttss!ss tttttsttsttsssttsssssssstttsstsststssssttssttstssstssssss stststttsttststssttstssttt�tstssttsstsstststts�s�stss!ttststssssttt�tsttttsttsssssss ttsss ssss tssts tststs tsts ttttsts tstsssstttstsstsssts�sssttssststsssttttsststsstt �tttsts s s stsssstsstsss tstss tttttt�s�s tsts sststts tttss tssss sts �ssts ss tttttt�s tttstsstss �ststtsststs ttss stttss ssss ttt�sss�tttss�ssstttttststss stststttts ssss�tttsstts�sttttsttssstssttsststttsstssttststsstssssssttttttttss!ss�tttsstts�stttsssttsssssstttss ssss ssss tttts tstttss tstsstssss sssstttssttssttttssssststttsttss stssttststssstssts ssss�tttttssss stststtsts s stsstss ssssttttttttsssss tttssssttssssttstsststtttsts sssstts sststssss ssss ttsssstts tttss ss �ttssssssstttsststtssstssststtsts�ssttttssttt ttsts ssttttsstttsststss t�tss ssss�sts�ts s ssttttssssss sssstssssttsttstttssstsssssststtssttssttssssssssstsstsssssttststtstsssstssssssssttstttsss ssstttsss its a really good thing I’ve got friends. A really, really good thing I’ve got friends!! JIM: tstttssttsssss tstttststsstsss sttssttsssttststs ROGER: tss ttttsttssstttsssttsssss s s sss�tsstssststssttsttttstssttsststtssttstssts ststs sststts ttts stss!ss ssts�ts s s s ts ttttss�ssttstststsssssstststtt�tsssstsssssstss

[PHOTO] Roger, at the 2011 General Mountaineering Camp

???? ????? ?????? ????? ??? ????? ????? ????? ??????????????????�???????????????s???????�?????????? s?????? ?????????? ??? s?????? ?????? ???????? ????????????????????????????????�???????? ?????? ???? ????? ????? ?????? ???? ?? ???? ??????????????? ????? ???????????? ????????????? ?????????? ????????? ?Where will the pull cocome from???????????????????????? ???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? ? ? ?? ? s????????? ??? ????? ???????????????????? ???? ???? ?? ???? ??? s??s??? ?????????????????????????s??????????????????????????????? ??s??? ??????????? ?????????? ? ????????????????????????????????????s????�??????????? ???????? ??? ????? ???? ??????????? ?????? ??????? ?�? ?? ????? ???????? ?????? ??? ????AiAigues-Vertes? ??? ???? s?s?? ??? ?? ????????????s????????????????????sss?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????s???????????????????? ??? ???? ????? ???? ???????????? ? s????????? ????? ????? ?????? ??? ???? ??? ??????????? ????? ??s????? ?????????????? ???????????s??????????????s??????????????????s??????????????? ??????�??????????????�?????? ???? ? ?? ???? ???????? ????? ???? ?? ????? ????????s?? ?????????? ????? ???????? ???? ???? ????????????? ??????? ???????? ??????????????????????????ss??�? ? ? ?? ?�??????????????????�????????????????????????????????????????????????????? ??? ???? ???? ????????? ???s? ??? ???? ??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????s?????? ? ?????????? ??? ?????????s????s????????????? ? �????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????????s???????????? ?????????????????????s?????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????????????s????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????s?????????????s???s??s?????? ?????s???????s?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????�???????? s?????????????????????? ????? ????? ??????? ? ???? ?????????s??s??????????????????????????? ?????????????? ??? ??? �??s??? s??s????? ? ???????? ????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? ??? ?????? ?s???? ??????? ???? ??????????? ??�?????? ?????????? ????? �? ??s??s??????????????????? ? ? s??? ?????????????????????????????????s??????? ? ???s??? ??? ???? ???????? ??????????????????????????????s??????s???????? ???????? ?????? ??????? � �? ?????? ??s??????????????? ??? ?????????? ????? ?????? ???????????????????????????????????????????????

?? ????????? ??? ????????? ??????s �? ???????????s? s??s??? ???? ???? ???? ??????? ????? ??????ss????? ? ? ?? ? ???????? ?? ????????? ????? ???????s?? ? ??s???? ??????? ?? ? ??????????????? ?????s?????????????????????????????????????s????????????????????????????????s??????????????????????????????????? ????????????????s???????? ???s? ??s???? ??????? ????? ???????????????????? ?????? ??�???? ???????????s????????????????????????????????????s????????????????????�?? ???? ???? ???????? ???? s??s? ???s???? ???????????????????s????????????????�JIM: ????? ?????????s????? ????? ???????????????????????????????? ??????????????????????????????????????? ???????????????????????? ss? ? ?????s???????? ?s?s???? ??? ???????????????????? ???ROGER: ? ????s??????????????????????????????? ? ?????????????????????????? ??????? ????????????????????????????????????? ???? ??? ???? ????????? ?? ??? ???????? ?????????????? ??????? ??? ????? ???? ?????? ????????????????????? ?????????? ???????? ???s?? ??????????????????????????????????? ???????? ? 1. ?????? ???? ? ? ???? ?????????? ???? ??? ?????? ? ???????? ??? ??? ? ??s? ?? ???? ? ????? ??? ??? ?ss???? ? ??s? ?s? ?? ???? ??????? ??? ?????? ????????? ? ?? s? ? ???? ?????? ????????????? ????????? ?????????? ??? ??????????????s??s???? ??? ??? ?????? ???? ???? ? ?????? s? ?? ? ? ??????????????????????????s????????????????? ? 2. ?? ?????????? ? ? ???? ???? ???? ???????????????????????????????? ?? ???? ??????s? ??????? s???? ??s? ????? ??s??????????s???????????????????????????????????????? s???? ??? ?????? ???? ?????? ???????????????? s???? ??s? ???? ??????????s??s??????????????????????????????????????????? s?????? s ? ???? ????? ??? ???????? ??? ??? ?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????s???? ? 3. s??????????? ? ????? ?? ??s?s ????????????????????s????????????????????????s?????????? ????????? ????? ?????? ????????????s????????????????????????? ? 4. ? ???????? ????? ?????????????????s????? ??? ???????? ?????????? ???? ???? ??s? ??????? ???????????? ? ????? ?s? ?? ? 5. s??? ???? ?? ???? ??? ???? ????? ??????????? ??????? ? ?????? ??? ??? ????????? ???? ???? ? ?? s? ? ? ????? ?? ??????????????????? ????? ?? ???s?? ? ?????? ????? ??????????s?????????????????????????????? ? ??? ????? ???? ?????? ? ????? ?? s? ?s? ????? ?????? ???? ?????????? ?????? ??s? s? ? ? ? 6. ??? ???? ??s???? ????????? s??s??

10 Toronto Section newsletter \ Fall ‘12

o o � � o o � o � � �o o o � � o �� o � o �� o o o o � � � o o JIM: that ROGER: � o o � � o � o � � o o o � � � � o o o o o o � o o o � � o �go damn you, goo o o o o o o oo oo o o o o o o � � o o o o o o � � o � o o � o o oo o � o o � o oo o o �� o � � o � � � � � o o o � � o o o � � � � �

o o o o o � � � o � � o � o � � �� o � � � oo o JIM: o oo o o o o o o o o o

e full interview is available (soon) as a podcast via the Toronto Section ACC website: www.climbers.org For more information on routes, ranges and ideas you can contact Roger at [email protected] Suggestions for future interviewees and/or ideas that might be explored would be greatly appreciated. You can contact me at [email protected]

climbers.ORG 11

B O N E C H OR E P O R T 2 0 1 2

12 13

[PHOTO] Old Laughing Lady and Old Walt, Bon Echo. Photo: James Rosselet[NEXT PAGE] Al Dimond and James Rosseletpry loose rock from ‘Yellow Groove’, Bon Echo.Photo: David Jackson

14

TORONTO SECTION

SUMMER TRIP PARTICIPANT GUIDELINES AND TRIP MATRIX

The leadership committee is developing best practices to ensure that our section trips continue to be enjoyable, safe and meet the increasingly diverse needs of our members.

We have followed the lead of other sections and developed guidelines appropriate to the Toronto Section. Included are We have followed the lead of other sections and developed guidelines appropriate to the Toronto Section. Included are degrees of difficulty and trip classifications allowing both participants and coordinators to select and lead trips that suit their abilities and objectives.

GUIDELINES FOR TRIP PARTICIPANTS• Ensure that your membership in the Alpine Club of Canada is current.• Understand and complete the liability waiver form.• Trips are designed to be informative and social but not instructional.• Sign up for trips that will challenge you, but are not beyond your abilities.• If inexperienced, go on easier trips first. Look at the trip classifications below prior to making your decision.• Ensure that you have the necessary equipement and that it is in good condition.• Ensure that you have the necessary equipement and that it is in good condition.• Try to learn about the location and available routes of a climbing area before you attend. Ensure that you register with the trip coordinator prior to the event. Do not just ‘show up’ at the cliff.• Understand that you are responsible for your safety and that safety is everyone’s responsibility.

Rattlesnake Point 5.3 and up

Buffalo Crag 5.3 and up

Kelso 5.4 and up

Niagara Glen Bouldering

• • “A” Trips ar suitable for beginner outdoor climbers. Participants are not required to lead but must have belaying skills. Mostly single pitch trad or sport routes with an easy approach. Equipment requirements include harness, helmet, rock shoes and at harness, helmet, rock shoes and at least 1 locking ‘biner.

Mt Nemo 5.6 and up

Old Baldy 5.9 and up

Metcalf 5.7 and up

Devil’s Glen 5.8 and up

Rumney, NH 5.8 and up

• • “B” Trips are suitable for outdoor climbers with experience following or leading mostly single pitch trad or sport climbs. Participants must be able to belay a leader, clean gear, follow a route, have rope management skills and knowledge of anchors. Equipment requirements of anchors. Equipment requirements include harness, helmet, rock shoes, 2 locking biners and a belay device. The approach may be longer and climbs more difficult to get to.

Bon Echo 5.5 and up

Lion’s Head 5.9 and up

Gunks, NY 5.4 and up

Dacks, NY 5.8 and up

Seneca, WV 5.7 and up

• • “C” Trip is suitable for outdoor climbers experienced in leading or following single and multipitch trad routes. Participants must have rope managment skills, knowledge of anchor systems and route finding abilities. Participants must also have experience in must also have experience in rappelling and confidence with exposure, hanging belays and some knowledge of first aid techniques and rescue systems. Trips may have a long approach, be in a remote area and could be up to a full day or 12 or more up to a full day or 12 or more hours.



Kelso 5.4 and up


•

Mt Nemo 5.6 and up


Metcalf 5.7 and up



•

Bon Echo 5.5 and up





•



Kelso 5.4 and up


•

Mt Nemo 5.6 and up


Metcalf 5.7 and up



•

Bon Echo 5.5 and up





•

intermediate ‘B’ trip advanced ‘C’ tripbeginner ‘A’ tripTRIP MATRIX

Please check classifications before signing up for a trip. If you have any questions, be sure to contact the trip coodinator.

WAIVER FORMSPlease remember that you will be asked to sign a waiver for every outdoor trip in which you participate. Copies of the waiver

can be obtained at http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/activities/waivers.html.

If possible, please print a copy of the release, and bring it with you on the trip. If you are not able to read and print it before the trip, the coordinator will have a copy for you at the designated meeting place prior to the event. You will have time to read and sign it there.

• Read and understand the release before signing and dating it. This release is easy to read and is available in French and English.• If you have any questions about the meaning of the release, please ask the trip coordinator to explain in detail.• You cannot change any terms of the release prior to signing it.• The witness to your signature must be a non-family member. It is preferred that the witness is an Alpine Club member,

volunteer, or employee. The witness should confirm that you have read and understood the release.• Do not rush through reading the release - leave yourself ample opportunity to read and understand its terms in advance of your chosen activity.• If you refuse to sign the release, you will not be able to participate in the chosen activity.

15Climbers.org

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16 Toronto Section newsletter \ Summer ‘12

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[PREVIOUS PAGE] Jon Gullet leading Dracula (4+) Photo: Bryan Thompson[LEFT] Mt Washington summitPhoto: Bryan Thompson

19

subject to change, please check climbers.org

DATE CUSTODIAN PHONE EMAIL EVENT

July 28-29

Aug 04-06

Aug 11-12

Aug 18-19

Aug 25-26

Sept 01-03

Sept 08-09Sept 08-09

Co-ordinator:

Sept 15-16

Sept 22-23

Sept 29-30

Oct 06-08

Oct 13-14

Long Weekend

Park staff climb

Labour Day Wkd

Ox-Roast

Thanksgiving Wkd

Docking Out

Adam Philips

Janet Sainsbury

Norma Froelich

Rob Wood

Rob Wood

Michelle Aarts

Chris TalbotChris Talbot

Dave Myles

Luke Myles

Kit Moore

Ron Rusk

Helen King

Boris Kaschenko

Derek TongDerek Tong

Adam Phillips

Janet Sainsbury

Kit Moore

Custodian Required

613-726-0024

613-355-8187

519-572-6490

519-572-6490

905-916-0316

416-222-3251

416-560-3251416-560-3251

416-469-3567

416-466-5610

416-466-5610

905-629-1646

416-651-4603

613-726-0024

613-355-8187613-355-8187

416-469-3567

[email protected]

[email protected]

[email protected]

[email protected]

[email protected]

[email protected]

[email protected]@gmail.com

[email protected]

[email protected]

[email protected]

[email protected]

[email protected]

[email protected]

[email protected]@gmail.com

[email protected]

20

b o n e c h o c u s t o d i a n s 2 0 1 2

The ACC Toronto Section held its 7th annual Bancroft ice-climbing weekend on February 4th and 5th, based out of the "unofficial" ACC hut (a.k.a. Margaret Imai-Compton's cottage).

The climbing began early Saturday morning, as 18 enthusiastic ice climbers of various abilities (novice to advanced) converged on Diamond Lake , east of Combermere , Ontario . Thanks to a number of leaders who arrived extra early, three topropes were already in place on “Guardian Angel,” an expansive ice wall rising out of the frozen lake. Others climbed “Kermit's Finger” and “Eagles Dare,” as well as a scratchy alpine "mixed route".

TheThe group reconvened in early evening at Misty Valley (the unofficial hut) for an evening of cheap and cheerful food, larger-than-life movies (projected on the grand ceiling), copious amounts of beer and fine wine, and fabled mountain stories.

After a hot breakfast on Sunday, the group split up for a full day of ice at two different venues. One group based itself out of Eagle’s Nest right in Bancroft itself, and a smaller group headed to Bow Lake , just south of town.

OverOver the years, this event has expanded from a small but committed group of eight climbers to this year’s 18 participants with a waiting list of up to 10. So when this event appears on the calendar later this year, book early for 2013: it sells out in December!

Thanks to Rob LeBlanc for leading the group, to the others who helped set up ropes, and to all who participated.

Margaret Imai-Compton (unofficial hut custodian)

7th Annual Toronto Section Bancroft Ice-climbing WeekendMaster of Acclimatization

Over the past 9 years, I’ve had the good fortune to climb at high elevations (5,000m+) in Mexico, Peru, Bolivia and Nepal. (Reaching the summit of Mont Blanc almost qualifies but it’s “only” 4810m but heck, it’s just a number!).

And I’ve additionally had the good fortune of accomplishing all these high summits with Barry Blanchard, Canada’s uber guide and alpinist. Barry is the master of acclimatization and on each of these expeditions, his clients all reached personal bests in elevation, thanks to his knowledge and experience of climbing at altitude.

OnOn our most recent Nepal expedition in 2011, where even a mountain pass was over 5,000m and our two highest peaks were 6,000m+, Barry’s experience and advice regarding acclimatization served us well.

Keeping in mind that there are excellent books dedicated to acclimatization (and they are required reading on Barry’s expeditions), for what it’s worth, here is his version of high altitude acclimatization.

1.1. Drink lots. “Your pee should be gin clear, except if you take B vitamins, you won’t be able to get away from the neon yellow hue but keep drinking. Aim for minimum 3 litres a day, even if you’re not thirsty.”2.2. No alcohol after 4,000m. “I love beer as much as you, but it’s prohibitively expensive higher up the valley because remember, everything is carried up by porters or animals. Your Stella Artois will set you back hundreds (of rupees).”3.3. Force feeding. “You can’t climb big mountains on granola bars. You need food and lots of calories. If you’re feeling nauseous and don’t have an appetite, give your food to me. I’ll eat it.”4.4. Dress appropriately. “It’s cold up there, especially at high camp and the cold will rob your energy. So put on any-thing with down in it. If you’re too warm in your sleeping bag, I’ll trade you. Mine’s a little thin on the filling.”5. Go slow. “The higher we get, the more sluggish you’re going to feel. So don’t count on breaking any speed re-cords unless you want to get AMS (acute mountain sick-ness).”6. Rest and recuperation. “Be sure to get enough sleep ‘cause that’s when your body repairs. If you’re having trou-ble sleeping at altitude it might be time to dig into the drugs. Diamox is my drug of choice.”7. Pillow partners. “Sperm production stops above 4,000m or at best, your swimmers are really slow, so there’s no point in creating your progeny. Besides, we’re short on snuggle bunnies.”

AllAll kidding aside, Barry has an excellent record of successfully acclimatizing his clients so if you’ve ever thought about tackling those big high summits out there, make sure you’ve got a solid un-derstanding of what’s required, or consider having Barry on your team.

21

By Margaret Imai-Compton

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� � � � � � � � Trip Report and Photosby Alex Perel

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[PHOTO] A time-lapse shot of Jon Rigg and Blain Herringer, mixed climbing a variation on ‘Front of the Pinnacle.’ Bon Echo. Photo: James Rosselet

True North Climbing75 Carl Hall Rd, Unit #14, Toronto416 398-ROCK (7625)TTrue North offers 50 top-ropes, with 2 routes per rope, 15 lead-only routes, >150 boulder problems and 2 slack-lines. 1/2 price: last Wednesday of every month.truenorthclimbing.com

Toronto Rock Oasis388 Carlaw Ave, Suite 204(416) 703-3434NNow in a new, larger location, The Rock Oasis offers 15 000sq.ft. of top-rope, lead climbing, and bouldering. Open 365 days a year until 11pm. 1/2 price: first Tuesday of every month.rockoasis.com

Toronto Climbing Academy11 Curity Avenue, Toronto(416) 406-5900FFaces, cracks, overhQangs, caves! 13,000sq.ft. of top-roping, leading and bouldering. World Cup walls by Pyramide and Entreprises1/2 price: third Thursday of every month.climbingacademy.com

Ajax Rock Oasis75 Centennial Road(905)-231-343425ft 25ft walls host 40 climbs, and 30 boul-der problems of a variety of difficulties, in a bright and open space. Great for all ages. 1/2 price: second Wednesday of every month.rockoasis.com

half priceclimbing nightswith your ACC membership

lpine club of canada - jrosselet.comjrosselet.com/acc/newsletter/s12online.pdf · bon echo...

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