The Dim Sum Field Guide

By Carolyn Phillips

A VISUAL REFERENCE FOR CHINESE-BREAKFAST NOVICES

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ISTEAMER BOWL USE YOUR HANDSPLATE/PLATTER

USE CHOPSTICKS AND A SPOON

SERVED HOTUSE A SPOON SERVED COLD

MIGHT BE SPICY

EAT WITH A DIP

SHOULD BE CUT BEFORE SERVING

MIGHT CONTAIN SHELLFISH

UNWRAP BEFORE EATING

SOMETIMES VEGETARIAN

INCLUDES BONES OR SHELLS

SERVED WITH SAUCE

Key

STEAMED ITEMS

FRIED/ROASTED ITEMS

DESSERT ITEMS

STEAMED DUMPLINGS(Mand. zhengjiao; Cant. zing gau)

UNLEAVENED WHEAT DOUGH WRAPPER FAMILY 蒸餃

The body of these two-inch dumplings have a plump gumdrop shape; their thin skins are closed with simple folds or multiple pleats across the top. The wrappers are made from a light and supple “hot dough,” a combination of boiling water and Chinese noodle flour, and may be

colored with vegetable juices like carrot or spinach. Fillings vary, but are usually pork or shrimp with vegetables and aromatics such as ginger,

Chinese chives, green onions, bok choy, Chinese cabbage, carrots, black mushrooms, and wood ear fungus. Vegetarian dumplings are typically a

combination of vegetables, cellophane noodles and scrambled eggs.

SIUMAI(Mand. shaomai; Cant. siu mai)

UNLEAVENED WHEAT DOUGH WRAPPER FAMILY 燒賣

Thin, round wrapper in a cup shape holding a filling, usually of pork, shrimp, or a combination, and often a scant amount of vegetables like

bamboo shoots, black mushrooms, and water chestnuts. The sides of the dumpling are squeezed in to form a flower shape. A garnish of contrasting color—Chinese ham, cooked or salted egg yolks, whole peas, or chopped

shrimp—is usually sprinkled in the center. These were enjoyed as long ago as the Yuan Dynasty in northern China. (In the northern provinces, siu mai

are usually larger, with thick wrappers, and the fillings are almost always pork seasoned with such ingredients as black mushrooms.)

CHICKEN BUNS(Mand. jibaozi; Cant. gai bao jai)

LEAVENED WHEAT DOUGH WRAPPER FAMILY 雞包仔

Cantonese dim sum bread dough, twisted at the top, filled with chicken and Cantonese sausage. (May contain pork and/or shrimp, black mushrooms,

and green onions, along with seasonings and binding ingredients.) Exterior shiny white with spongy edges; interior juicy and tender. Usually has a waxed-paper square on the bottom. Member of the larger-sized bao

family that originated in North China, typified by thick, bready wrappers and hefty fillings. Cantonese bao were first sold as snacks in Guangzhou teahouses. A legend says that bao were invented 1,800 years ago by the

great strategist Zhuge Liang of the Three Kingdoms.

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STEAMED PORK BUNS(Mand. cha shao bao; Cant. char siu bao)

LEAVENED WHEAT DOUGH WRAPPER FAMILY 叉燒包

Springy, with a yeasty aroma, this bao is wrapped such that the dough splays open, or blooms into three or so “petals” that are craggy along the

edges. The mahogany to scarlet filling—consisting mainly of Cantonese barbecued pork seasoned with soy sauce, shallots, oyster sauce, and

sesame oil—is visible between the petals in the finished bao. Exterior shiny white with spongy edges; interior sweet, savory, flavorful, and chunky with a light gravy. Usually has a waxed-paper square on the

bottom. May also be baked with the folds on the bottom and smooth surface on top so that it does not crack open.

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RICE NOODLE ROLL(Mand. changfen; Cant. cheong fun)

MISCELLANEOUS WRAPPER FAMILY 腸粉

Large, thin steamed rice noodle rolled around shrimp or meat center or a crispy nonmeat filling such as youtiao (long, unsweetened Chinese cruller).

A shrimp filling is often indicated by large whole shrimp visible on top. Cilantro or sesame seeds may decorate the top of some varieties. Sweet soy sauce or a savory sauce is poured over the dish just before it is cut and served. The name literally means “intestine [rice] noodles” because when these glistening, lumpy sheets are rolled up, they look somewhat

like their namesakes. The variety with a fried cruller in the center is referred to as zhaliang 炸兩 (Cant. zaa loeng).

“FUN GOR”(Mand. fenguo; Cant. fun gor)

MISCELLANEOUS WRAPPER FAMILY  粉果

Flattish steamed half-moons, with unique wrappers that are a translucent mix of wheat starch and cornstarch often characterized by a lack of folds,

the edges brought together in a flat seam instead. Fun gor are generally filled with light mixtures of ingredients like finely chopped pork, chives, peanuts, cilantro, salted turnip, and dried shrimp. Wrappers for fun gor and related dumplings are made from wheat starch rather than flour, so the practically gluten-free dough melts in the mouth. Fun gor may also be formed into shapes like stingrays or rabbits for special occasions and

banquets. Typically steamed, they can also be steam-fried.

“HAR GOW”(Mand. xiajiao; Cant. har gow)

MISCELLANEOUS WRAPPER FAMILY 蝦餃

Thin, translucent wrappers of wheat starch and cornstarch containing firm, fresh shrimp, bright pink in color, as well as tiny bits of fatty pork and bamboo shoots for added textural contrast. Multiple delicate folds on one side only give this dim sum its singular shape. Exterior slightly

tacky and shiny; interior crunchy and nongreasy. Har Gow were created at the beginning of the last century in Guangzhou by the owner of a small, family-style teahouse on the river’s edge. Anxious to beat the

competition, the teahouse owner took advantage of the fresh shrimp sold by fishermen directly from their boats.

STICKY RICE IN LOTUS LEAVES(Mand. nuo mi ji; Cant. lo mai gai)

MISCELLANEOUS WRAPPER FAMILY  糯米雞

Glutinous (sweet) rice mixed with a variety of savory ingredients before being wrapped in a soaked, dried lotus leaf and steamed until tender.

Fillings include chicken (often from the thigh or leg), Cantonese sausages, barbecued pork, dried shrimp, dried scallops, dried mushrooms, and

bamboo shoots. The leaf is not tied, but rolled up and stacked with other packets in a steamer. Exterior a moist, inedible leaf; interior tender rice

mixed with plump, salty bits. A common variation is called pearl chicken, in which large pieces of poultry are coated in water-soaked raw rice and combined with other seasonings, folded up in a lotus leaf, and steamed.

STUFFED BEAN CURD(Mand. niang doufu; Cant. yong tau foo)

UNWRAPPED PROTEIN 酿豆腐

Bean curd (tofu) that is hollowed out and stuffed, and either cut in squares or in triangles. The filling is usually pork, but may be shrimp or fish paste,

and sometimes mixed with chopped water chestnut, ginger, and other crunchy bits. The bean curd is then either lightly pan-fried or deep-fried before being slowly cooked in a soy-and-ginger-based sauce. (It may also be simply steamed or poached.) Exterior soft, firm, or deep-fried, which

gives it a chewy skin and meaty texture; filling is always juicy, and in strong contrast to the exterior. Eggplant, lotus root, bitter melon, chili peppers,

and sweet peppers may be used in lieu of bean curd.

CHICKEN FEETIN FERMENTED BLACK BEAN SAUCE

(Mand. chizhi feng zhao; Cant. tau zi fung zao)UNWRAPPED PROTEIN 豉汁鳳爪

Whole chicken feet with the nails removed that have been deep-fried and then braised in a rich, slightly sweet sauce until tender. They are steamed with fermented black beans and other aromatics; fresh chilies may be added just before serving. There is zero meat to be had here. Rather, the tough bird skin becomes tender, soft, and gelatinous as it absorbs the braising liquid, which is rich with garlic and fermented black beans and chilies.

Beneath the skin is a layer of slightly sticky tendon, which feels very much like a gummy bear left out in the sun. Referred to as “phoenix claws.”

Exterior soft and supple; interior lightly chewy with a bone.

STEAMED SPARERIBSWITH FERMENTED BLACK BEANS

(Mand. chi zhi pai gu; Cant. zi jup paai gwat)UNWRAPPED PROTEIN 豉汁排骨

Pork spareribs crosscut into one-inch pieces and then cut again midway between each bone so that every portion is more or less a one-inch cube.

Steamed with fermented black beans, ginger, and other aromatics until tender. May have chilies. Entire piece of meat is extremely juicy and

flavorful, with thin tendons around the bone and chunks in the sauce. Cut this way, the spareribs are easy to pluck up with chopsticks and

nibble over a spoon. Variations include different types of sauces, such as ones with sour plums. Almost every non-Muslim region of China

has its own take on these small spareribs.

RADISH CAKES(Mand. luobogao; Cant. lo bak gou)

PAN-FRIED UNWRAPPED CAKE 蘿蔔糕

Large, mild Chinese radishes grated and mixed with a rice-flour batter, and steamed in a large mold until cooked through. The cake

is then cooled and cut into half-inch slices and pan-fried until crispy. Savory ingredients such as finely chopped Cantonese sausages, black mushrooms, dried shrimp, and fried shallots are added to the batter. Often accompanied by a vinegar sauce; may also be simply steamed,

cooled, sliced, and served with soy sauce. The most common variation is taro cake, made with mature taro in lieu of the grated radish. Crispy

exterior; creamy interior often studded with chewy bits.

RADISH PUFFS(Mand. luo bo su; Cant. lo baak sou)

WRAPPED & BAKED PASTRY  蘿蔔酥

Cantonese-style puff pastry wrapped in a spiral around a shredded radish filling. Chinese radish is shredded into very thin strips and mixed with

finely minced and stir-fried Chinese ham, green onions, and ground black pepper. This is rolled into puff pastry and baked until golden; it may also be deep-fried. The most famous variation is Shanghai’s Radish Thread

Flaky Pastries (luobosi subing). Chinese pastry crusts, which use rendered lard rather than butter, tend not to have any distinctive flavor on their own but serve as backdrops for the filling. Exterior crunchy and dry;

interior filled with savory, seasoned, barely done radish.

FRIED RICE-DOUGH PACKETS (Mand. xian shui jiao; Cant. hom sui gok)

DEEP-FRIED WRAPPED PROTEIN 鹹水角

A lightly sweetened rice dough mixed with a little wheat starch, lard, and boiling water, formed into small wrappers, and then filled with a loose mixture of meats, dried shrimp, and vegetables such as salted turnips,

bamboo shoots, black mushrooms, and water chestnuts bound together in a light gravy. These are then formed into slightly elongated ovals with gentle points at each end; the packets are fried to a golden brown, which

puffs them up. This creates many textures, as the surface becomes almost like sandpaper, and this yields to a sweet and slightly tacky dough balloon

that holds the tiny offering of savory, chewy seasonings.

WRAPPED CRAB CLAWS (Mand. niang xie qian; Cant. yeung hai kim)

DEEP-FRIED WRAPPED PROTEIN  酿蟹鉗 

The shell of a crab claw is removed, leaving only the part covering the pincers as a handle. Then a forcemeat of shrimp—either mixed with pork

or crab or shrimp alone—covers the meaty part of the claw, forming a ball. This forcemeat may be seasoned with ginger, green onion, and rice

wine. This forcemeat is rolled in a double-bound coating (cornstarch, egg wash, then bread crumbs) before it is deep-fried; may also be steamed

without the breading. The Cantonese approach to shrimp forcemeat is to present the shellfish in all its glory, with only a bit of fat to amp up the

mouthfeel, plus seasonings to perfume the whole.

TARO-WRAPPED PORK(Mand. yu jiao; Cant. wu gok)

DEEP-FRIED WRAPPED PROTEIN  芋角 

Large, starchy taro root is cooked and mashed like a potato, and then mixed with wheat starch, lard, and boiling water to form a thick paste.

Ground pork is the main ingredient for the filling, although fresh shrimp, barbecued pork, black mushrooms, bamboo shoots, and green onions may be added to form a rough mixture in a light gravy. The cooled taro paste is formed into a firm dough and filled with the meat mixture. These are

rolled by hand into a loose football shape. When deep-fried, the taro puffs up into what the Chinese call feng chao or a “honeycomb.” This is a netting-

like crust formed by the explosion of the taro coating in the hot oil.

ROAST DUCK(Mand. kao ya; Cant. siu aap)

ROASTED MEAT 烤鴨 ; 燒鴨

Cantonese-style roast duck is usually served in portions of a half or quarter bird. No matter which style of roast duck is served, the brown

skin is usually fairly crisp, with the fat layer distinctly separate from both the skin and the slightly pink meat. The duck will generally have a sauce that varies from lightly to very sweet, and the meat itself will be savory and juicy. The meat is cut into roughly half-inch slices in the kitchen

prior to serving, but the bones remain in the duck, and the pieces will be reassembled to look like a complete section. Sometimes served over a

scattering of sweet and savory cooked soybeans.

SUCKLING PIG (Mand. pian pi kao ru zhu; Cant. pin pei siu jyu jyut)

ROASTED MEAT 片皮烤乳豬 ; 片皮燒乳豬

A whole suckling pig is prepared as follows: the skin is lacquered with repeated layers of maltose and Zhejiang vinegar, while the meat is

marinated with hoisin sauce, sesame sauce, and other seasonings. The result is an extremely tender meat with an almost gelatinous texture.

The roasting process lifts the skin off the meat so that it becomes brittle, and the fat and meat layers become distinct. The skin may be eaten

separately from the meat with steamed buns and hoisin sauce. But this is not the custom at dim sum teahouses, where the suckling pig is

sometimes served without any adornment.

MANGO PUDDING(Mand. mangguo puding; Cant. mong guo bo din)

COOL SWEETS: PUDDINGS 芒果布丁 ; 芒果布甸

A soft pudding—containing the pulp of ripe mangoes blended with milk, sugar, gelatin, sugar, and sometimes eggs—that is chilled and served cold in individual cups; often molded into decorative shapes. Usually

pale orange in color, with small pieces of mango sometimes folded into the pudding or added as a garnish; some chefs drizzle condensed milk over

the pudding. Additional garnishes may also include berries, mint, parsley, or whipped cream. Probably derived from the traditional British favorite

blancmange, which is sweetened and thickened milk or cream that is most often flavored with almonds, molded, and served cold.

CUSTARD TARTS(Mand. danta; Cant. daan taat)COOL SWEETS: TARTS 蛋塔 ; 蛋撻

Chinese puff or short pastry in individual tartlets holds a light, sweet custard that is baked until barely solid. Exterior crisp and flaky; interior soft and eggy. The pastry is akin or identical to that of Curry Turnovers, cut into small circles, and fitted into round tartlet pans, then blind-baked

and filled with a sweet, rich custard mixture—basically egg, milk, and vanilla—and cooked until tender. These tarts can be enjoyed warm or cool. Custard tarts are, in all likelihood, a Guangzhou interpretation of the English custard pie. The Portuguese Custard Tart (pasteis de nata),

with a broiled top, is another recent variation.

FRIED SESAME BALLS(Mand. jian dui; Cant. jian dui)

HOT FRIED SWEETS 煎堆

Airy balls of sweetened, glutinous rice dough, the outside covered with white sesame seeds before being deep-fried. This popular Chinese New Year treat is now an everyday dim sum offering, and while fillings may vary, sweetened red bean is the most common. Hot, crisp, and round

right out of the fryer, they quickly deflate and soften as they cool. The Cantonese name, jian dui, literally means “fried lumps.” In the north,

fried sesame balls are referred to as ma tuan (sesame orbs), rather than jian dui. Exterior slightly crisp, yields to a tender layer of sweet rice

dough; interior a marble of sweet red-bean paste.

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