"Lutterloh... we have a problem!" The Problem: Sometimes you come across scans of Lutterloh pattern sheets on the internet. Often these scans aren’t scaled right and/or it isn’t known which scale or size to print them. Being wrong on the scale/size could be a problem while enlarging the patterns. You are probably used to enlarge your patterns by lining the edge of your Lutterloh tape measure scale with the direction lines in the patterns. This method works fine as long as your patterns are (printed/Xeroxed) in the correct/original scale/size.

The reason why there is a problem: First some theory regarding the Lutterloh System and how scale effects the resulting enlargement. Please have a look at the waistcoat pattern below and note the two lines drawn in it: a red line intersecting the pinhole cross and a blue line being lined up with (and also on) the direction line. Note the distance between the red a blue lines.

In original patterns or patterns printed to the correct scale, the distance between these lines corresponds with the distance between the pinholes in the tape measure scale and it’s nearest edge, the edge you use the do your lining up with.

It is clear that with changing scale/size this distance changes too.

Above we have learned that scaling in patterns effects the workings of the tape measure scale in relation to the direction lines in the patterns. Let’s explore a bit further what is needed for a Lutterloh pattern enlargement: As we all know Lutterloh pattern enlargements are done by placing dots on the pattern drafting paper. The placement of the dots is determent by three things:

1. A starting point (the pinhole X on the pattern) 2. A direction (determined by the direction lines) 3. A distance (dependant on the bust or hip measurements)

Now, what happens to these three things when a pattern sheet is printed in a larger size? The starting point and the distance are not changed if the scale of the pattern sheet changes. Only the direction needs some attention or be approached differently. When you get to work with patterns in a different scale you will notice it is impossible to both 1) line up the tape measure’s edge with the direction lines and 2) also have the two touching each other, the edge of the scale and the direction line may be running parallel but they don’t touch each other as we are accustomed to. Seemingly a big problem.

The Solution: The solution to our scaling issue is both simple as practical. First you start by printing/xerox the pattern sheet to a size which covers the available page size to the max. Be sure (and this is highly important) to print/xerox without changing the width/height ratio. Just scale the pattern sheet up to fill the whole page. Working with a larger pattern sheet has some benefits: for one you can see much clearer what you are doing. Normally you would line up the edge of the scale to touch the direction lines in the pattern. In our larger scale method you would do the same but (just because you can’t make the to be lined up bits touch) you forget the touching demand. Just be very meticulous in getting the edge of the scale and the direction lines as parallel as possible. The effect is that you address the direction demand correctly. Study the picture on the next page and the more detailed picture below…

You see two patterns, an “original”/smaller size superimposing a larger/enlarged pattern. The two sized patterns have there pinhole crosses coinciding. The (blue) arrow is the line which makes the edge of the Lutterloh tape measure scale lined up with (and also touching) the direction line in the original sized (smaller) pattern. You notice that the (blue) arrow is running parallel with the direction line in the larger pattern. As long as you make sure that (while drafting you pattern, based on a larger/enlarged pattern sheet) the edge of your Lutterloh tape measure scale is running parallel with the direction line in the larger pattern your direction is correct and thus the drafted dot is in the correct place on the pattern drafting paper. Conclusion: While drafting you patterns, based on a larger/enlarged pattern sheet, just do it in the way you are used to (and have learned studying the Lutterloh manual) with one difference: the edge of the tape measure ruler needn’t be touching the direction line, it need only be running parallel. Any questions and or remarks? Do not hesitate to mail me: sandertel@yahoo.com

“Two different sized patterns superimposed and the (blue) arrow indicating the edge of your Lutterloh tapemeasure scale, proof that scaling doesn’t affect directional correctness of your drafted pattern dots. Where the (green) dot (to the right of the pattern) is the drafted pattern dot at the intended 15,5 cm next to the tape measure’s edge (small piece of the tape measure visible)…”